Do-it-yourself draft floor in a wooden house - instructions. Subfloor device: what is hidden under the floor covering Cover the subfloor

The durability of the finished floor covering also depends on the quality of the preparation of the base. It is for this reason that laying the subfloor plays such a significant role. The material used for installation must ensure evenness finished construction and be compressive strength. Modern technologies offer several options for arranging subfloors using different materials.

Types of subfloors

The draft floor in the section resembles a layer cake:

Base. It is on him that all the burden falls.
Layers of hydro, heat and sound insulation.
Screed.
Draft coating.

Far from every owner will build this, however, the subfloor can be done in different ways with your own hands. Fortunately, there are several options for its arrangement.

Wet floors

The most popular methodology It does not require special skills and high costs. The screed is carried out using a gypsum or cement-sand mortar. Most relevant in houses with slab ceilings. The screed is poured onto the layers of thermal insulation. The top of such a floor must be leveled and dried, and only then covered with the last final layer.

There are three main types of wet screed floors:

Single layer. They are used to eliminate plate defects, as a rule, with differences up to 1.5 cm.
Double layer and multi layer. They are used when it is necessary to equalize a significant dissonance of heights (up to 12 cm). They simply cannot be eliminated in one layer.

Base pouring is a great way to shape perfect surface for laying carpet, laminate or linoleum.

The positive qualities of a wet screed include: moisture resistance, fire resistance, strength and relatively small thickness. The cost of the material is democratic $ 1-3 per kilogram of the mixture.

dry floor

To minimize the laying time of the subfloor, use a dry screed. Solutions practically do not participate in the process of its formation. For this reason, the screed does not need to dry for a long time. Insulating material, lathing and wood flooring are involved in the creation of the "pie". During installation, ventilation gaps are created.

Important! Screed under ceramic tiles v without fail needs to be primed. Omission of this moment may threaten the delamination of the coating.

prefabricated floor

This is a dry screed. It is mounted on top of slabs or flooring from boards. The prefabricated floor is a structure made of rolled, sheet materials and dry backfill. "Pie" usually consists of screed, heat-insulating materials, logs and dry mixes. A rough floor is mounted on top.

Prefabricated floors are different high level sound insulation and serve as the basis for most finished floors. They are almost 2 times lighter wet screeds, but have a decent thickness, so they are not suitable for thin roll coatings.

Floors on logs

This type of subfloor is most often found in old houses. Logs level and greatly facilitate the installation of a wooden floor, and also do not allow weakening of the load-bearing beams.

Arranging the floors on the logs seems quite simple, but it cannot be done without proper preparation. It is impossible to work with them without knowing all the subtleties.

It is not permissible to align the logs with wooden wedges and spacers made of wood chips. Such a design is not viable and after a while the floor begins to creak and sag. To level, sand is poured under the logs or the material is trimmed.

Antiseptic treatment and ventilation increase the life of the frame. From above it is covered with plates or sheet material, and to lower the reduced noise index, polyethylene foam or fiberboard can be laid under the logs.

Adjustable floors

These floors rest on the floor slab through threaded posts. Contribute to raising the finish coating to a height of up to 7 cm (if we are talking about plywood) or up to 22 (with the help of a log). To create a subfloor, beams, cranial beams and a board made of coniferous wood are used, as a rule, with a reduced grade.

Subfloor materials

To correctly answer the question: how to make a subfloor, you need to decide what materials are needed for its arrangement.

The base is assembled from the following components:

Bricks. They serve to create pillars that are placed on the cement mortar.
Metal corners and bolts. Attached to brick pillars lags.
Waterproofing. Choose a material that can prevent rotting.
Insulation. Lay on the bottom layer of the rough base.
Boards or slabs. Used for flooring.

Of course, this is not all the necessary elements. Their variations are due to the variety of types of rough coating and the wishes of the owner. The quantity is calculated on the basis of the size of the premises for development.

The lifespan of a floor depends on proper preparation and positive qualities materials included in its composition, including from coatings.

Gypsum boards

GVL and GVLV create a perfectly even base for a finishing coat. Usually they are laid in two layers, fixing with glue. It is customary to use these plates for leveling on expanded clay backfill or for creating a coating of heat and sound insulation. They are also suitable for flooring in the old way. subfloor. The only thing that should not be done is to combine GVL (GVLV) with lags. In such a combination, the material does not withstand local loads: even furniture legs can break through the floor.

The base is suitable for almost any finishing surface: laminate, carpet, tile, linoleum, cork or parquet. To protect the subfloor from the influence of possible leaks, it is necessary to treat the plates with a hydrophobic composition.

Moisture resistant chipboard

The material withstands heavy loads (we are talking about the idea of high-density chipboard) and allows you to form a fairly even base. Due to its increased strength, it can be laid both on backfill and on logs.

Chipboard has good indicators of heat and sound insulation. Usually plates, like drywall, are fixed with glue. They are laid in two layers, not forgetting about the treatment with a hydrophobic composition.

Important! chipboard is better only use in dry rooms and cover with carpet, parquet or linoleum. For additional sound insulation, the plates are pasted over with technical cork.

Cement particle board

The material has great features:

High strength;
environmental friendliness;
Water resistant.

DSP does not burn and is not afraid of even serious leaks. On the market there are plates with a thickness of 1-3.2 cm. They are laid on the backfill or on frame logs, laid in two layers (the top one is treated with a waterproofing or water-repellent composition).

DSP is excellent for laying parquet and laminate. The only drawback of the plates are minor deviations in thickness at the joints (up to 2 mm). In this case, it is unacceptable to cover the surface with cork or linoleum without pre-training grounds. Deficiencies are eliminated by grinding and puttying.

Moisture resistant plywood

Multilayer plywood has many variations in thickness (from 0.3 to 3 cm) and cost ($ 2.7-39). Due to its high strength, it is often laid on frame logs, but just as often it is laid directly on concrete base under parquet or laminate.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result on your own or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of the device floors in wooden house important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for independent work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor "pie".

main element building structure for the floor is strapping. For capital buildings, it is usually made from a powerful beam with parameters cross section not less than 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced by several boards, securely interconnected. Board binding is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses experienced by the timber.

Products used for strapping are subject to pre-treatment antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oil-treated wooden parts do not rot or absorb moisture, so they last for many years. In the absence of oil, special tools are used that are available in every hardware store.

To extend the life of the strapping, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. Usually it is a roofing material folded in two layers.

By strapping, you need to install lags. These are wide powerful boards, which need to be strengthened on the edge. They, like the strapping, need to be treated with an antiseptic. Logs must first be carefully examined, cracks repaired if any. Boards with big flaws should be replaced with better ones.

In light buildings, it is allowed to make logs prefabricated. For fastening constituent parts use special staples or studs. Docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. For this, the lag section is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, along which a membrane is laid to prevent the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. A heater is placed in the formed cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the owners of the house. Any floor can be used as a finishing floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure structure

It is not enough to build a wooden house, you need to sum it up correctly engineering Communication, such as the:

heating;
water supply;
sewerage;
electrical wiring.

abundance engineering structures indoors does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or basement floor, an electric water heater can be installed under the subfloor, or a gas boiler room can be equipped. Especially important is the location of the water heater under the floor for a small shower room.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect against moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both in the equipment of the first floor and the second. It is laid under the mineral insulation and above it. The non-woven material is produced in narrow rolls. Separate parts during laying should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the lags, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps better than others, OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB boards are widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good for underlayment under boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you should not do OSB with a finish coating.

For laying on logs set in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards made by pressing with the use of a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot and do not dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walking.

Laying is done quickly, because:

does not require special skills;
sheets are correct geometric shape, and time is not spent on fitting;
one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of 3.1 m2.

Floor types

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of overlapping. There are two options: concrete ( reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house, you can equip any of modern options floors: laminate, parquet, cork, tiles and others.

Concrete the floors are formed by pouring the screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A well-made screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

There is a high chance of cracking in a new house cement screed due to shrinkage of the building. Serious damage will not follow, however, heat loss is possible. prevent Negative consequences You can by laying a reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor . Wood is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergic reactions residents: adults and children. natural material increasingly used by owners country houses, preferring it to bricks and various blocks.

Plank flooring is easy to sheathe with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a "pie" of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made as a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

No matter on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or just a building is being erected on brick columns, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First prepare the walls, equipping them with ventilation holes. The lack of air access to the underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the overlap must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and a stock of wood of 10-15 percent.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with agents against rot and fungus.

Draft two-layer floors are made where the base has to be laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can tamp the ground, lay out a pillow of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence people.

In a light country house used for a seasonal stay, the floor needs to be done differently. First you need to set up brick columns around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a single height (bring them to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket made of roofing material or roofing felt. A 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This whole structure is closed with bars, along which lags are set with constant horizontal adjustment. The design is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the logs if the manufacture is carried out with a single flooring.

The double floor assumes the presence of laying insulation between the rough and finishing floor, hydro- and vapor barrier, and, if necessary, other components.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will be purchased presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room complete.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

material opportunities;
purpose of the premises;
planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards from such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. A purple floor can be made using rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when buying very expensive zebrano wood.

Will not require big expenses boards from coniferous trees, including pine and spruce. From such floors, the room is filled with substances useful for humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and lime boards are required. They do not emit resin, are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be chosen taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. With a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, boards with a thickness of 50 mm should be preferred. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to do the flooring with your own hands, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take narrow and not too long boards.

One way to install the floor is laying it apart, with this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as a base, parquet boards are glued with mastic or glue and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, as in the case of a solid board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight styling, they use a diagonal one. Laying at an angle of 45 ° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arranging the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self-installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, having shown perseverance, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn top coat, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul floors change wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation.

If the lags are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from a greased parquet glue plywood.

Instead of expensive membrane films glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finish coating is done with a sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Fastening points should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a step of about 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting recesses should be puttied. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will undergo negative impact. And after some time, traces of poor-quality work will appear on it.

Construction technologies are constantly changing. Modern ways often more efficient, but not always cheaper. In particular, one of the most affordable flooring technologies is a subfloor along logs. Yes, it's not perfect, but so far it's the best cheap way make the floor. In any case, in those regions where the price of wood is still low.

In the construction of the floor, the rough flooring can perform two functions. The first is to serve as the basis for laying heat, hydro, soundproof materials. The second function is to serve as a support for finishing flooring or floor screed under the floor covering. Moreover, insulating materials can also be used to improve performance.

One of the options for underfloor heating and tiles using

Is it possible to make a finishing floor without a draft? Basically, it is possible, but in this case it is more difficult to achieve the required characteristics. If the requirements are not too high (dacha, summer or guest house, technical building) and it is important to get only necessary minimum, you can do without the subfloor.

If the requirements are high (for a residential or heated building), as a rule, a construction without a rough flooring requires more money. Why? For the subfloor, inexpensive materials are used. The main selection criterion is strength. On the appearance attention is not paid and this allows the use of inexpensive materials. For instance, unedged board(after appropriate processing), construction plywood, a slab of lean concrete. Other materials are laid on the rough base and claims to their strength are minimal. The main emphasis is on "protective" characteristics. After all, the load falls on the floor structure and rough flooring, and not on these materials. And they are usually relatively inexpensive.

All draft bases can be divided into two large groups: dry and wet. Wet include all types or. But this is not about them. We will talk about dry ones, and along the lags and beams.

To date, there are more modern technologies, but the draft floor on the logs remains the cheapest. This is a traditional version that has been modified to fit modern requirements comfort and economy. But even with the changes, it is difficult to achieve those parameters that are considered the norm today. In particular, sound insulation, and thermal insulation cannot be ideal. You can only get closer to the norm. But the solution will not be the cheapest.

Ceilings on wooden beams

Beams in a floor structure are wooden or metal elements that rest on the foundation and serve to transfer the load. Since our wood is still the most cheap tool, most often we have wooden beams. They are made from timber - solid, glued, or spliced beams (from several boards) are used.

Beams can only rest on the foundation, they can have intermediate supports. In houses with a subfloor, piers serve as intermediate supports; in the absence of a subfloor, brick columns are laid down or columns are made of reinforced concrete. Waterproofing is laid on these supports in two layers (roofing material or something like it, but not a film), and beams or logs are supported on the waterproofing.

Beams and logs - the difference

How are beams different from lag? In short, beams are load-bearing structures, but logs are not.

Beam - a linear element of load-bearing structures, based on both ends (unlike the console) and working mainly in bending. As a rule, the section of the beam is rectangular or square. In wooden houses they also make hewn log. The installation step of the beams and their cross section is considered during the development of the project. Logs are also prescribed, but they are not so critical, so their characteristics can be changed during the construction process.

Logs are not elements load-bearing structure and they are made simply from a thick board, which is often placed “standing up” - they are supported on a narrow part. With such an installation between the lags, it is convenient to lay the insulation - when choosing the installation step of the lag, the width of the insulation is also taken into account. The draft floor along the logs can also be with the location of the insulation on top. This type is called a floating floor, since the finish coating does not have direct contact with the base (in this case, with the rough flooring).

There are two important points. The first - when using mineral wool as a heater, it is necessary to measure the actual width of the roll or plates. It doesn't always match what is advertised. The second - the distance between the lags should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then it can be put in a thrust and it will be held due to the force of elasticity. This makes installation easier. But there is another advantage to this solution. Even if the insulation “bends” a little or dries out during operation, no gaps will appear between the cotton wool and the lag, as the material will straighten out.

When laying insulation, the main thing is not to leave gaps and minimize cold bridges

When using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam as a heater, the step lag (and their cross section) is also better to choose. But in this case, "compress" it will not work. The plates are cut into pieces of a slightly smaller width than the distance between the lags, and the gaps are filled with mounting foam.

Lag installation step

The installation step depends on the board from which the lags are made:

for a board with a thickness of 40 mm, the distance between the centers of the support is 80-90 cm;
50 mm - distance 100-110 cm;
board thickness 60 mm - 120-130 cm.

The draft floor is the basis for the finishing floor, so it must be leveled to the horizon. The smoother the base, the less problems when laying other materials. Therefore, already when installing the lag, their edge is brought out at the same level.

One of the possible options

If the step of the beams is small - up to 80 cm, the rough flooring can be laid immediately, without a log (board 40 mm). With a large step of the beams, logs are laid across, and the flooring of the subfloor is laid on them.

A couple of comments about wide board. If the budget is limited, you can save money by making prefabricated logs. Two boards 25 mm thick cost less than one board of the same length 50 mm wide. We buy two boards, put them one to the other, connect them with nails or self-tapping screws (preferably nails). We put fasteners on both sides in a checkerboard pattern. They put the logs “on edge”, so that they even surpass the board in strength - there is less chance of a crack appearing along the wood layer. There is one more nuance that will help to avoid the "torsion" of the prefabricated log: we arrange the boards so that the annual rings are located towards each other.

Floor structures on wooden beams

When constructing a subfloor, a board is more often used. Basically, it serves only as a basis for laying insulation. The load from the insulation is small, so you can not knock down the flooring tightly, but leave a gap of up to 1 cm. But such a sparse laying is suitable for materials with sufficient density. When using bulk thermal insulation, you will have to make a continuous crate.

With a large length of beams or lags, intermediate jumpers are also made for a more stable geometry

Draft floor along the lags under the screed (floating floor)

Can be done if necessary. The only question is that the beams can withstand the load. This is calculated separately. How good is this design? The fact that:

The usual "cold" floor can be made warm. You can even make it heated (if the beams withstand).
On top of the concrete slab, you can lay tiles, lay sheet material and lay coatings that are demanding on the base - laminate, pvc tiles, linoleum.

By the same principle, you can make a draft floor according to wooden lags without cement. As a top layer, you can lay plywood, OSB and other sheet materials that you consider suitable in two layers. On such a base, again, you can lay tiles and any other type of finish.

What lags and board to use? It is possible / necessary to select, since the thickness of the board depends on the installation step of the lag:

the distance between the lags is 80 cm (permissible up to 100 cm, but not under a screed or tile, under lighter coatings) - board 40 mm;
installation step lag 50-60 cm, board 30-35 mm;
for boards less than 30 mm, support is required with a distance of 35-40 cm (depending on the specific thickness).

The draft floor in this case may not be solid, but with gaps. Under concrete slab it is best to take extruded polystyrene foam, high-density polyurethane foam as a heater. You can foam glass (foam glass), but it is very expensive. These materials normally withstand the weight of a monolithic screed. By the way, since it fits on an unstable foundation.

How to ensure long-term operation

With this design of the overlap, wooden beams, it is important to protect the subfloor board from decay as best as possible. If the subfloor is below, care must be taken to ensure that it is ventilated (ventilated) and that the humidity in the subfloor is as low as possible. We need a blind area around the house (better insulated), as well as a drainage system.

As an additional measure, a film with sand is used. A dense PVC film is spread on the ground in two layers - the joints are glued with adhesive tape, brought to the foundation and fixed there. A layer of sand is poured on top of the film (at least 5 cm, but more is better). The film does not let in most of the moisture (if it is intact and the joints are well glued), and the sand absorbs the excess, and then slowly dries out. The same method is also used using any other draft floor along the logs.

Draft floor from OSB (OSB). You can remove the rough flooring from the board and lay the slab in two layers

As already mentioned, the subfloor board can be edged or unedged. Required condition- operating humidity. Few people will lay chamber drying, but the board must be dry - at least 6-9 months of drying. If the floor of the first floor is laid, the material must be processed protective compounds. Humidity in the underground will be high, so the quality of processing should be good. It is better to process several times. Chemistry for wood today is more than enough. You can select properties. If needed folk remedies is a processed oil.

Ground floor above ventilated subfloor

The overlap of the first floor over an unheated underground is different in that it must be well insulated. If you are not going to do floor heating, you need to make sure that it is comfortable even with working products. To do this, it is better to make two layers of insulation and place them in different directions.

In this design, the rough flooring is only a support for the first layer of insulation, so taking a thick board here does not make sense. Usually they take 25 mm, process it and use it for filing. In the construction shown in the figure, a cranial bar is nailed to the bottom of the beams. Usually its cross section is 25 * 25 mm. A rough roll board is placed on the cranial bar. The segments are short - the length is equal to the step between the lags. Substandard length can be taken on this flooring, but there is less waste if the length is a multiple of the lag step.

Waterproofing is laid on the boards. Please note that if mineral wool is used as a heater, the material must be vapor-permeable. It should make it possible to remove moisture from the insulation. If the insulation is foam, polystyrene foam, foamed glass, they themselves do not conduct steam and this layer is generally irrelevant.

The thickness of the insulation should be such that it upper edge 2-3 cm was below the edge of the beam. This is necessary to ensure the ventilation gap. Wood changes humidity and it is necessary to give this opportunity, leaving a ventilation gap.

A cross frame is laid across the beams. These are lags. Their height depends on the required thickness of the insulation, and the installation step depends on what kind of flooring you plan on top. The dependence of the board thickness on the lag step is described above. But it can be not only a board, but also any sheet material.

Waterproofing flooring at a distance of 2-3 cm from the surface of the insulation

A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation. This time, the material should retain both vapor and liquid. In the case of using mineral wool, it is better to use a membrane with one-way vapor permeability (for example, or Izover, other brands). It must be laid so that steam can escape from the heater. This solution is better, as it makes it possible to maintain normal humidity in the floor cake.

There are also options with one layer of insulation (pictured above). This method is convenient if, according to thermal engineering calculations, the thickness of the insulation is not too large.

What is the rough floor made of on the logs

The draft floor can be made from boards (edged or unedged without bark) and any sheet material, including drywall. TO sheet materials include:

Now we are not talking about environmental safety listed materials. Here everyone makes his own decision. The point is that any of these materials can be put on logs. These materials fulfill their role as foundations. The thickness of each material depends on the installation step of the beams or lag. Once you decide on a specific material, it will not be difficult to choose the thickness.

The draft floor, as a base, can be made in wooden and concrete houses. The pre-floor must be perfectly level. Installation of such a coating is a laborious process, and it is best to trust professionals.

Of course, the draft floor in a wooden house can be done with your own hands.

Before moving on to installation, we will analyze with you the types and purpose of subfloors.

Varieties of rough floors

Flooring directly on the logs. In this case, we use chipboard, OSB, plywood or boards, which in turn are laid on logs.

This type of subfloor is well suited for surfaces with low load-bearing characteristics, which allows you to distribute the load over the entire floor area. It is recommended to use such coatings as laminate, linoleum or parquet board.

Flooring directly under the joists. It is also called a double layer. The space from the log to the log is filled with waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier.

Subfloor directly on load-bearing beams. This floor option should be laid when designing a house.

In order to reduce the step between the beams from 1.2-1.5 m, as is usually the case, to 0.6-1 m, then the beams will replace the logs. We refuse the extra layer. In terms of everything Consumables, we get, and save about 30%.

Plus, we get an increase in the height of the room. But, in case you have already bought finished house, do not be upset, the subfloor boards can be thrown diagonally across the beams, this will ensure high strength of the floor surface.

Subfloor types:

A wet base is a screed (concrete base) under the space on which the wooden floor will be installed.

Since the concrete base is not level, an additional leveling layer will be required. It is possible to make a topcoat only after the complete drying of the rough base, approximately 7-8 days.

Dry is a log flooring. They are laid on the ground covered with sand. When installing a lag, use a ruler and a level. Unlike a concrete base, the floor on the logs is difficult to bring to a perfectly even state.

Protecting the subfloor from moisture

All components of the subfloor must be processed by special means against mold and rot. processing all wooden elements, carried out after drying - this is very important point, the less moisture in the tree, the better and deeper it absorbs antiseptics.

Impregnation is done at least 2 times, do not forget about the cross sections of wood, they must be processed. It is not recommended to first lay the boards and then process them, because the ends will be open to mold and water vapor.

Natural ventilation of the underground, the most important organizational moment, when installing the subfloor. If it is not properly organized, then not a single antiseptic will help you, and after a while you will have to change the entire floor covering.

The vent is made at a height of 30-40 cm, and 90 cm from the corner wooden house so that the air does not stagnate.

From the protection of small rodents, a metal grill can be installed on the vents. For the winter, you can close the vents to keep the heat on the first floor, but be sure to open it with warming.

The preliminary floor should not be continuous. For flooring, you can use any material that can withstand this load.

Waterproofing is mainly used over the subfloor. But, it can also be used before, or crushed stone can act as a material.

Roofing material is used as waterproofing over the floor. On top of the waterproofing, we lay a layer of insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene).

After a layer of insulation, you can proceed with the installation of the finished floor, but professionals recommend over the layer of insulation, apply another layer of waterproofing, and then the final floor covering.

Laying a subfloor on a concrete base

The most important condition is that the screed is perfectly even.

There are two options for installing a subfloor on the surface of a concrete base:

Reiki is used when it is necessary to carry out communications, mount additional insulation or the screed has significant differences, more than 2-3 mm.

Between the slats and the screed we lay a layer of waterproofing, usually this is roofing material. We align the slats with linings and fasten with dowels. If necessary, we additionally insulate or install communications. Subsequently, we mount the floor with boards or slabs.

Remember that on one rail two plates will dock in the middle. The tiles are laid out as brickwork, thanks to this we get a uniform distribution of the load on the rails. We fix plates or boards with nails or self-tapping screws.

Laying a subfloor on a concrete base, used ideally flat surface. To obtain a flat surface, auxiliary compounds are used, usually a construction adhesive. The glue is applied in an even layer, the plates are laid one after the other.

The glue under the slab removes, all irregularities and the subfloor becomes a monolith with a concrete surface. Hats of nails and self-tapping screws are recessed using a screwdriver or a puncher. The holes from the hats are puttied with a special compound.

It is important to always leave a distance of approximately 1 to 2 cm between the walls and the floor. Do not forget to lay this distance with any insulation. If you plan to lay linoleum on top, then it must be sanded with special machines. Mainly the joints of the plates.

Price of work performed

Draft floor work for 1 sq.m. - an average of 150-200 rubles.
Finishing floor work for 1 sq.m. - an average of 150-200 rubles.
Completely rough floor, for 1 sq.m - an average of 1200-1500 rubles.
Completely finished floor, for 1 sq.m. - an average of 2400-2800 rubles.

Behind the concept of "rough floor" are hidden not just poorly processed boards, but a real "pie" from various materials, which together form a solid foundation for the finished floor. By the way, the draft floor does not have to be wooden, it can be a concrete screed on the ground. The technology for arranging the subfloor includes a set of measures that provide hydro, heat and sound insulation of the base. In this article, we will consider how you can make a durable and reliable subfloor on which you can lay any finishing coating.

How to make a wooden draft floor on the ground

In a country house, arranging the floor is a responsible and time-consuming task. A wooden floor on the ground can be performed without restrictions. Even under the condition of temporary residence in the house, when the heating is not working, the wooden floor lasts for a long time without changes, since the underground is well ventilated through the vents in the foundation.

For wooden elements of the floor structure, it is necessary to select high-quality dried wood, with a moisture content of not more than 12%. This is important, as a wet tree can "lead" during operation. For the subfloor in the house choose conifers tree - spruce, pine, fir, larch. Resin-rich wood is less prone to decay and mold development.

Also, wood for the log and the subfloor must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Underground wooden floor on logs should be well ventilated. To do this, vents are made in the foundation, which are covered with a mesh with a cell of no more than 8 mm so that mice do not penetrate inside.

Base for wooden floor

The design of the wooden floor on the ground assumes that the floorboards will be laid on logs - longitudinal beams. Depending on the features of the house, logs can be laid on support beams, a mortgage crown or support posts.

If the room is large enough, fixing the logs only with the ends to the beams will not be enough, the structure will turn out to be fragile. Therefore, in the gaps between the walls, support posts are installed on which the logs will be laid. The step between the columns depends on the section of the lag. For example, if a beam of 150x150 mm is used as a log, then the distance between the support posts should be no more than 80 cm.

How to make support posts for logs:

First, we make the markup where the lags will be located. We make notes on the support beams or the foundation of the house. Then we pull the cords through the entire underground. Across future lags, we stretch the cords at a distance of 80 cm or any other that is equal to the step between the posts. At the intersection of cords or ropes, support poles will be located.

In places where we will make support pillars, we dig a hole 40 - 60 cm deep, with sides 40 cm.
At the bottom of the pit, we compact the soil, pour a 10 cm layer of sand, and then 10 cm of crushed stone. Alternately, each layer is carefully tamped. This will be our bedding under the foundation of the column.
We install a wooden formwork in the pit to fill the foundation for a concrete column. If the supporting posts are made of brick, then the height of the foundation should be such that it rises 5-10 cm above the ground. If the entire support column is cast from concrete, then the height of the formwork should be such that the logs laid on the column are horizontal.
Inside the formwork we insert a reinforcing frame, connected from steel bars 6 - 8 mm in cross section.
We pour concrete.

Important! If the entire column is poured from concrete, then it is necessary to control that the surface of the column is exactly horizontal and that all columns are at the same level.

After the concrete has completely dried, we cover the surface of the column with roofing material or glass isol in 2-3 layers. Definitely no sprinkles. We coat the surface and joints with mastic.

If you want to make supporting posts out of brick, then the masonry must be fastened with cement mortar. For a column with a height of less than 25 cm, the masonry should be 1.5 bricks, for a higher column, a masonry of 2 bricks will be required.

After the concrete has dried, the formwork can be removed. For greater reliability fertile soil it is better to remove from the underground. It must be removed to a depth of 20 cm. Instead of soil, it is advisable to add 10 cm of gravel and 10 cm of sand and carefully compact it with a vibrating plate.

Before starting the arrangement of the base, it is necessary to treat the beams, logs and boards of the subfloor with an antiseptic. The logs can be laid immediately on the mortgage crown or foundation and on the support posts, or you can first install the support beams on the posts, and then the logs across the top. Either option is correct. Only laying the logs across the beams provides a more stable and durable structure if the distance between the logs is very small, 40 - 60 cm.

The cross section of the log must be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating material that will be laid between them. For example, if the thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, then it is necessary to take a bar with a height of 180 mm. Always leave a ventilation gap of 30 mm.

The step between the lags is selected taking into account the thickness of the boards of the future floor. For more precise instructions, see the table below.

Table 1. Step lag.

Consider laying the log on the support posts:

We lay the logs on the mortgage crown (support beams, foundation) and support posts. We control their even location, horizontal. On the surface of the support posts under the logs, you can put a sound-absorbing material. But this is not necessary, since roofing material or another waterproofing material, which covers the surface of the column, springs well and conceals sounds.
If, nevertheless, lag sagging is noticed somewhere, it is necessary to put wooden blocks on the support posts under the logs and fix them firmly. If somewhere the beam sticks out, then it can be cut off with a planer.

Important! The maximum allowable deviation in the evenness of the location of the log is 1 mm per 1 m.

We fix the lags to support pillars with mounting brackets. From the side of the wood, we fix it with self-tapping screws 50 mm long, and from the side of the concrete column, we twist the anchor.
First we lay the so-called "lighthouse logs", which are located at a distance of 2 m from each other. Next, we will navigate through them.
By analogy, we lay all the logs and check their even location.

After all the logs are fixed, you can proceed to the arrangement of thermal and waterproofing.

Thermal insulation and waterproofing of a wooden floor

Waterproofing and thermal insulation materials are laid between the joists. To fix them, you need to equip the base. This can be done in several ways.

Method 1. Sheets can be nailed from below the lag moisture resistant plywood. Such a design will turn out to be as reliable as possible. To do this, you will have to work from the underground, which is not always possible.

Method 2. In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars 20 mm thick can be nailed, and rolled up from the boards from above. This work is more painstaking, since you will have to cut a lot of boards with a section of 15 mm and a length equal to the step between the lags.

You can choose the way you like more. The main thing is to get a fairly solid foundation.

We lay a layer of waterproofing with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, glue the joints with construction tape.

Important! Be sure to use a superdiffusion vapor-permeable membrane. We need the waterproofing material to let moisture out of the room, but not let it in from the underground. Therefore, ordinary plastic film cannot be used.

On top of the film between the lags, we lay the heat-insulating material. We cut the rolled material with a width equal to the step between the lags plus 1 - 2 cm, so that the material enters the gap between the lags by surprise.

Important! As a heater for a wooden floor, you can use mineral wool in rolls, slabs, basalt wool, ecowool, sawdust can be blown. Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam cannot be used. These materials are completely vapor-tight, the wooden floor simply cannot breathe.

On top of the insulation, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm.

Subfloor laying

Now you can lay the subfloor in the house. There are several options for arranging rough flooring. Can be used as a material floorboard thickness 15 - 25 mm with minimal processing. You can also use a grooved floor board if finances allow. For rough floors, the price depends on the cost of the materials used. If you use thick massive board, then it makes no sense to lay a draft floor from a floor board. And you can lay sheets of plywood, and from above, lay the final floor covering.

Draft floor board for the floor:

We start laying from the wall. We cut off the spike and apply the board to the wall, leaving a gap of 2 cm.

Important! Indentation from the walls is required, since wood is a plastic material, gaining moisture, expanding, and drying out, shrinking. The gap will provide an unhindered opportunity to expand and shrink the wood.

We fix the board to the lags. From the side of the wall, we screw the screws directly into the board, then this place will be hidden by the plinth.
From the side of the spike, we screw the screws into the spike at an angle of 45 degrees.
We move the next board close to the first. We insert into the groove of the first board.
We screw a self-tapping screw into the groove of the second board, fixing it to the log.
All subsequent boards are laid by analogy.

Important! If the boards are the same length as the room, then they can be laid exactly parallel to each other. If the boards are shorter than the room, then they must be laid with an offset - apart.

The last board is fixed so that you can hide the caps of the screws under the plinth. On this draft floor is ready. The main thing is to tightly fit the boards to each other. From above you can lay a floor covering.

How to make a wooden subfloor on a concrete base

In apartments with concrete floors you can also do a wooden floor. The logs are laid on a concrete base, but for this it must be even. A height difference of several centimeters is unacceptable. Therefore, the option when they put under the bending logs wooden bars, does not fit. Over time, the linings will dry out and deform, which can easily fly out and the floor will begin to creak.

Substrate preparation: hydro and sound insulation

Before laying the log on the concrete floor, it is necessary to level the base. For this we fill cement-sand screed. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely dried, i.e. a month later.

To the surface concrete screed laying waterproofing film with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, glue the joints with adhesive tape.

We put soundproof linings under the logs. To do this, you can use cork materials or foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 1 - 4 mm. The lining under the logs is needed in order to extinguish impact noise.

Laying lag on concrete

It is advisable to use a beam with a length equal to the length of the room. If this is not possible, then you can take the beam shorter and connect it to the end. In this case, the connection points should be spaced apart.

We lay the logs on the prepared base.
We check the horizontal position of the lag.
We fix the logs to the floor with the help of corners. Do not forget that the corners themselves are attached to concrete floor anchors.
After laying and fixing all the logs, we lay the insulation between the logs in the same way as in the case of the floor on the ground.

Do not forget to leave a ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm.

Subfloor installation

On top of the lag we lay a draft floor. As mentioned above, it can be plywood, or it can be a floorboard.

Consider the option of arranging a plywood subfloor:

We take a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 22 mm.
We lay a sheet of plywood on the logs and fasten them with self-tapping screws in increments of 15 cm.
We arrange sheets of plywood in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, some of them will have to be cut.
It is impossible for the joints of plywood sheets to be in one line.

Do not forget that there should be a gap of 2 - 3 cm between the wall and the subfloor. On top of the plywood base, you can lay such floor coverings: laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles, vinyl tiles, parquet, parquet board, massive board.

The device of rough floors made of concrete on the ground

It is not always possible to pour a concrete floor in a private house on the ground. There are certain restrictions. Firstly, ground water on the site should be low enough - at the level of 4 - 5 m. Secondly, the soil must be stable, not mobile, otherwise the concrete floor may collapse. Thirdly, people must constantly live in the house, or it would even be more correct to say that it must be heated in cold period of the year. If all conditions are met, you can safely pour a concrete slab over the ground.

Earthworks and foundation preparation

First of all, it is necessary to outline the "zero" mark - the level of the future floor. It is necessary to navigate along the bottom of the doorway. All walls must be marked so that in the future it will be clear for how long to pour concrete.

The floor on the ground is a multi-layer structure 30 - 35 cm thick. To equip it, we remove upper layer soil until the height from the zero mark to the bottom of the pit is 30 - 35 cm.

Important! If the soil level is below 30 - 35 cm from the floor level, then it is necessary to level the soil surface, compact it, add sand to required level and also carefully tamp.

We tamp the foundation of the pit.
We pour a 10 cm layer of crushed stone and carefully tamp. If the thickness of the backfill is difficult to control, then we hammer several pegs into the ground with the desired mark. After leveling and tamping, the pegs can be removed.

Pour the 10th layer of sand, pour water and also ram.
From above we pour a small layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 40 - 50 mm.
Sprinkle with sand, forming a thin layer, carefully tamp.

Important! If suddenly on the surface of the base are observed sharp edges fractions of crushed stone, it is necessary to expand the pebble and put it so that there are no sharp corners anywhere.

At all stages of backfilling, it is necessary to monitor the horizontal position.

Waterproofing, thermal insulation, reinforcement

We lay a waterproofing material on the surface of the base - a polyethylene film with a density of 200 microns, roofing material or glass isol. The main thing is that the material is not damaged on the edges of the rubble.
We start the waterproofing material on the walls to a mark 2 cm above the floor level. We lay with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm and glue with adhesive tape.

At this stage, you can lay a durable thermal insulation material. For example, extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool in slabs, perlite or expanded clay. It is also possible to place the heat-insulating layer above, on top of the concrete base.

The concrete floor must be reinforced. To do this, we use a metal mesh with cells of 10 cm.
We install the reinforcing mesh on stands 2-3 cm high so that the mesh is completely inside the concrete.

Installation of formwork and guides

To comply horizontal level the floor must be laid with the so-called "beacons" or guides. For these purposes, you can use round and square steel pipes, wooden bars. We arrange them in increments of no more than 1 m. We fix them with a thick cement mortar. Also, their height can be controlled by pouring more solution under the guides.

Between the guides we install the formwork for pouring the floor. This is not necessary, but it makes the task of pouring the concrete floor by hand much easier.

We process the guides and formwork with oil or mining so that after pouring they can be easily removed.

Rough floor screed - pouring concrete

It is necessary to pour the concrete floor in the house in one or two passes. If you take long breaks, then the foundation will turn out to be fragile.

We start pouring concrete from the corner opposite the front door.
Fill several cards at once, then level with a shovel.
We compact the concrete with a deep vibrator.
Align the surface using the rule. Set the rule on the guides and pull it towards you. Excess solution is distributed to cards that do not have enough solution.
We take out the cards and fill the voids with concrete.
When the entire floor is poured with concrete using this technology, it must be covered with plastic wrap and allowed to dry for a month.

For better drying of the concrete subfloor, its surface must be moistened with water.

After the concrete has completely dried, you can perform a final floor screed and lay the floor covering.

Doing the subfloor with your own hands is a very responsible task, because a solid foundation is much more important than a finishing coating. For example, in an old house, you should not lay new flooring on top of the old subfloor unless it has been overhauled.