Draft floor: on wooden beams in the house, with your own hands on logs, a finishing device, how to make black. How is the floor made on wooden beams? How to lay a floor on wooden beams

Wood is a traditional building material, the advantages of which in certain areas of construction over all others are indisputable. This is an absolute statement when it comes to flooring. The main thing is to know the features of the material and how to work with it. On a solid wooden base, you can mount both the "warm floor" system and tiles.

What could be the basis?

The type of foundation can be different, it all depends on what material the house is built from. Namely:

Gender in wooden house, based on wooden beams, rigidly cut into the frame of the house;
Installation of "suspended" wooden beams;
Covering in a stone house with wooden ceilings;
The floor structure in the house is made of precast concrete or brick with concrete floors.

Let's start with the classic version - the floor is laid on wooden beams, rigidly fixed in the walls of the building.

Reliance on capital wooden beams

In this case, the floor beams, regardless of the floor, are a single solid wood, rigidly fixed in the wall of the building. In a wooden house, both through fastening is practiced, when the ends of the beams pass through the main walls, and hidden. In stone houses, the beams are always hidden. The ends of the beams must be treated with antiseptic materials on a water or bitumen basis, which prevents them from rotting. A wooden house is built immediately with beams that dry simultaneously with a log house, and for a stone house, pre-dried material is used, usually this is natural drying in sparse stacks.

Plywood installation

In a natural way, wooden beams should dry for at least six months. The laying of beams and their alignment with the formation of an ideal horizontal plane occurs during construction. Therefore, the flooring of the first draft base along wooden beams presents no difficulty. Floor boards are simply laid out along the beams until the floor is completely covered. It is best for this job to apply already edged boards, however, a variant of rough trimming of the edges of an unedged board with an ax is possible. If the subfloor board is not dry enough, then it is not immediately attached to the beams, but pressed with transverse boards and several wedges are driven into the remaining gap in the middle of the room, which are knocked out as the boards dry.

If it is planned to install a warm floor system in the room, and in the case of a subfloor flooring on capital wooden beams, this is possible, as well as, if desired, to arrange a finish coating of ceramic tiles, then the rough flooring is necessarily impregnated with antiseptics, any, bituminous or water-based. You can’t just use used engine oil, it has an alkaline reaction and destroys wood no worse than a fungus. When installing the "warm floor" system on the rough floor, it is also necessary to lay the heat-insulating material "penofol", which simultaneously plays the role of waterproofing.

wood floor frame

wood floor frame

If none engineering communications it is not planned under the finish coat, but there is a desire to make the floor warm, then bars are nailed onto the floor beams in front of the flooring of the rough base, and the gaps between the beams are covered with boards. Here the tightness of the edges does not play a role. On a plank base between the beams, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, any - mineral plates, rolled heat-insulating material, expanded clay or building foam. All these heat insulators must be protected with waterproofing materials on both sides. This method of insulation concerns the overlap of the first floor, the lower edge of which goes into the basement. For the second and subsequent floors, the ceiling boards of the lower floor can serve as the basis for laying insulation.

Support on suspended beams

If a small private house is built of brick, aerated concrete blocks or natural stone, then it is best to make suspended wooden beams based on brick or concrete pillars in the basement. This is dictated by the fact that with any, even the most thorough processing, wooden beams inside the stone massif of walls can rot. For the device of such a base, it is necessary to install posts over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe basement, on which the logs rest. The execution of the columns can be different - from wood impregnated with bitumen to brick, concrete and natural stone. The only thing you can not make these pillars - silicate brick and aerated concrete blocks.

A small depression is dug under each post, which is filled with fine gravel and compacted. It is not recommended to use river pebbles, as they are mainly of limestone origin and cannot withstand heavy loads. Brick columns can be folded both in the usual direct way and in the form of a truncated pyramid. This is more difficult, but the poles will be more stable.

The distance between the pillars with a beam cross section of 150 by 150 millimeters can be made 1 meter. The ideal option there may be small square concrete slabs for paving. Even fragments will do concrete piles. A layer of waterproofing is arranged under each supporting pillar, not to protect the pillar, but to ground water did not soak the beam through them. On top of the column, it is also necessary to lay two or three layers of roofing material impregnated with bitumen.

After the installation of the pillars, which must be tried to be carried out so that all the upper edges approximately coincide in a horizontal plane with each other, wooden beams can be laid on them. The adjustment of wooden beams to form a horizontal plane is carried out exclusively by lining wooden parts on the pillars, but not by sawing the beams, in order to avoid weakening them. The beams installed on the pillars should not touch the walls and the distance between them and the wall should be sufficient so that the seasonal fluctuation of the foundation does not lead to deformation of the flooring.

The ends of the wooden beams, on which the subfloor will rest, must also be treated with antiseptics. The device of such a "suspended" floor is justified in houses where they live permanently, with heating of the house in winter months, then seasonal fluctuations of the soil when it freezes will not destroy the entire structure. The device of the "warm floor" system on this basis is unjustified, because it is impossible to predict the magnitude of seasonal fluctuations in the structure.

To insulate the floor, it is worth using the same method as when insulating the floor of the first floor in a house with wooden beams that are part of the structure of the house. And now let's move on to ordinary city houses and try to destroy the established vicious practice of erecting concrete screeds under wooden floors.

Support on a concrete base

A vicious practice has developed everywhere, when, to level the floor in houses with concrete floors, they additionally arrange cement screed. Firstly, this makes the ceiling heavier, and if we agree on any alteration of the main walls in construction inspections, it is not clear why they have not yet paid attention to the overload of floor slabs with these concrete screeds.

Secondly, it is a long, dirty and often useless job, because concrete works carried out by unskilled workers are most often of very poor quality. The strength of such concrete screeds is very low. It is much easier to use wooden beams, but with a much smaller section, because they are not, in this case, load-bearing structure. Edged boards with a thickness of at least 40 millimeters or wooden blocks with a section of 60 by 60 millimeters can serve as such beams. Wooden beams form a frame on which it is very easy to attach a rough floor covering. In addition, for the installation of the “warm floor” system, it is enough to waterproof the capital floor, and let the heating pipes “snake” so that they go around each beam.

Every self-respecting man knows how to work with a tree, so anyone can level the floor by placing hewn pieces of wood under the beams. Also interesting is the option when several threaded bolt supports are arranged under each beam. In this case, the floor can be leveled to the accuracy of "at least launch rockets." If no engineering communications are provided under the floor, then the frame space can be filled with insulation.

General rules for covering over wooden beams

Regardless of the type of flooring at home, there are several general rules, which must be observed so that the floor on wooden beams turns out to be really durable and serve for a long time.

The distance between the beams should not be too large to prevent deflection of the material of the main subfloor. With a thickness of subfloor boards of 40 millimeters, it should be no more than one meter;
As a material for the base of the floor, which is laid along the beams, a material having a long-fiber structure can be used - boards, both solid and glued on special machines or construction plywood, no matter - waterproof or regular.
Slab Construction Materials type cement particle boards and gypsum fiber boards have a discrete structure, and, despite the apparent strength, can only be used as an additional coating under the floor finish;
The boards of the subfloor must be well dried before laying on the beams, no matter which way - natural drying in sparse stacks or on special installations. If insufficiently well-dried boards are laid, then before the final floor covering is mounted on them, they must lie on the floor beams for at least 3 months, all this time they must be constantly rallied, removing the gaps that form;
If high humidity is expected in the room or communications are laid inside the floor, for example, a floor heating system, then the processing of wooden structures with antiseptic materials is mandatory;
Everything insulation materials located in the space between the beams and the main floor must be protected by waterproofing materials. It would be ideal if you provide ventilation openings closed with bars in the corners of the room.

Grooved floor board

Working with an environmentally friendly and easily processed material - wood, is available to anyone home master. And the installation of the floor base on wooden beams is the most logical and simple solution in terms of execution technique, it will allow you to make a warm and reliable floor at minimal cost.

Floor on wooden beams video

Read on - find out more!

When the initial stages of construction have come to an end, and the walls have already been erected, the roof is in place, interior work begins.

At this point, proceed to the arrangement of the floors. To do everything right, you need to provide protection to the finish coating.

Wooden house

For this, a draft floor is arranged in a wooden house. it is designed for insulation and additional protection of the main floor.

You may not use the subfloor on the logs, if it country house, in which the family lives only in the summer, or a summer kitchen. The question of whether a floor on wooden beams is needed is a kind of rhetorical one - the owner in this case is repelled by his requirements and capabilities.

Laying the subfloor in the room will save on heating, since the timber, which is mounted under the floor, additionally retains heat. In addition, if you make a subfloor in a wooden house, you can count on natural ventilation and protection from moisture that comes from the soil.

The draft floor will also improve the sound insulation in the room.

Draft floor

Preliminary work

The main structural element is the lags. They are a bar or a board up to 5 cm thick. In order for the floor to be of high quality and withstand loads, the boards and logs themselves must be securely fixed.

Attention! When laying, the logs should go on the plinth by at least 10 centimeters. In addition, they leave a gap, taking into account the fact that the beam expands with changes in temperature and humidity.

If the base is too narrow, the joists cut into the wall. Arrangement can be done in a different way: at a short distance, make a brick base under the beams for support. The made column will become a support on a concrete base.

In order for the flooring to last for a long time, it is important to use a well-dried tree. Previously, the timber is also treated with a special antiseptic. It is recommended to impregnate the material in two passes with an interval of several hours to protect it from decay.

Stacked logs

Foundation preparation

The logs are mounted with their ends on the base, but before proceeding with this action, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete and a strapping is performed, for which a thin board is used. The ends of the lag must be firmly fixed with metal corners. The fastening is by no means made rigid, since the overlap must “breathe” and at the same time not change the structure after sudden changes in temperature and humidity.

Important! If in the future it is planned to install a fireplace, piano, heavy furniture in the room, then the distance between the lags is reduced.

The gap that will turn out between the lags and the wall is filled using a special soft material for thermal insulation.

Draft floor in a wooden house

To perform the installation of the subfloor, a low-quality board is used, since it is not visible in. But at the same time, boards of the lowest grade are pre-treated by special means. For a quality result, it is not difficult to take a planer and trim the timber.

Beam for lag device

In addition to boards, for the device of the subfloor, Chipboard boards or plywood. Roofing material is used for waterproofing. If you make a subfloor with your own hands, it is recommended to build on the individual aspects of the room and material capabilities.

The device of a high-quality subfloor in a wooden house

The lower part of the lag is equipped with a beam, and the floor subsequently rests on this structure.

Typically, flooring is a board that has been thoroughly dried beforehand. The boards are driven towards each other with a hammer, and no other fasteners are used for this.

Batten

Waterproofing is laid on the floor with a margin that goes onto the walls, which is subsequently cut off. Fastening takes place using metal brackets.

The next layer is a special membrane. It must be solid and end directly at the base of the wall. The joints are connected with adhesive tape. To ensure ventilation, a beam with a cross section of 5 × 5 centimeters is driven in.

In general, the question of how to make a subfloor has been sorted out, but the last stage remains - laying the final flooring. To make the floor beautiful and attractive, whatever top material you choose, fasten it carefully with self-tapping screws. The main condition here is not beauty, but a macroscopic surface, so that the arrangement of the upper layer is as simple and without problems as possible.

What indicators to look for when buying a bar or beams

The material must be processed before sale special composition, which prevents moisture;
So that the floor does not deteriorate prematurely, the timber is treated with a composition from pests;
The board must be well dried. otherwise, during operation, the material is deformed;
For the device of the subfloor, it is recommended to give preference conifers, such a bar will not rot over time due to high level pitches.

Dry screed under the subfloor

If the house is equipped with concrete floors, they are leveled with a dry screed. This method is less expensive and takes less time than other options.

Dry screed with expanded clay

Attention! To make a dry screed yourself, prepare a tool in advance and purchase materials that are available to everyone in hardware stores today.

Training

A polyethylene film with an overlap of 15 cm is laid on a ready-made concrete base. Scotch tape is used to fasten the edges. After the completed manipulations, beacons are set. They do this with the help of a water level, and wooden bars are set in height, putting and removing them, they get the desired height.

Then expanded clay is poured and, using the rule, it is carefully leveled along the established beacons. You do not need to immediately work with the entire floor, it is better to pour material equal in area to a sheet of plywood.

We lay plywood sheets on expanded clay

After the first leaf is laid, beginners begin to doubt whether they did it right. Therefore, you need to stand on plywood and walk a little. Initially, the impression of a "sinking" floor will be created. But such a doubt arises only among those who encounter a dry screed for the first time. Do not be afraid, because after laying subsequent sheets it will become clear that the screed is effective, and the sheets are in place.

To attach the sheets, use self-tapping screws, they are fixed at a distance of 10 cm from each other. And for greater confidence in the reliability of the joints are additionally treated with glue. It is better to apply glue in “waves”, in a small layer.

At the final stage, the joints are treated with putty, after drying, the surface is ground and leveled.

Installation of plywood sheets

Attention! If this type of screed is used for a bathroom or other room with high humidity, remember to additionally treat it with a waterproofing compound. For these purposes, mastic or an elastic solution is used.

And in conclusion…

The arrangement of the subfloor is a simple matter, so you can do everything yourself. It is important to choose carefully wood materials to cover and process them well. If the initial draft design done correctly, then the floor itself will delight the owners for many years.

Be sure to provide holes for ventilation (air vents) in the basement, which are then covered with a special mesh. The movement of air will not allow the wood to gain moisture, protect it from mold and fungi.

Professional arrangement of the subfloor is shown in the video:

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The arrangement of the subfloor is an important process that requires careful preparation. The floor is the basis of the whole house, and with a negligent attitude to its installation, creaking and deformation of the coating may occur.

The method of arrangement depends on the operating conditions of the building and the type of house.

The supporting elements of the foundation are beams. If during the construction of a private house their laying is not provided, then brick supports are used for laying logs.

To ensure maximum rigidity of the floor covering, the cross section should be at least 150 * 150 mm, and the distance between the lags should not exceed 70-80 cm.

The subfloor is the basis on which the final coating is laid. There are several types of underlay:

single layer floor, which consists of flooring boards or concrete base. As finish coat fiberboard or plywood is used. Such a structure is set up in country houses short stay during the summer. in houses for permanent residence additional insulation needed ground floor.
Floor with multi-layer structure, containing additional layers to improve the heat and waterproofing properties.

In the second case, the base of the subfloor consists of the following parts:

Beams (logs) mounted on supports or a strip foundation plinth.
The cranial bars, which are fixed on the underside of the beams and play the role of a support.
Draft boards (plywood, chipboard and other materials).
Waterproofing material that protects the base from moisture.
Heat and vapor barrier materials that protect the structure from low temperatures and condensation.
Counter rail to create a ventilation gap under the coating.
Soundproof material.
Finishing flooring(parquet, decorative plywood, solid wood).

There are several various options laying a rough coating depending on the number of layers:

Dry installation using wooden elements (beams, boards, timber). Additional elements structures can be made of brick or concrete.
Wet installation based on concreting the base.

Arrangement of the subfloor of the first floor

Laying the foundation on the ground floor of houses has its own characteristics. Wooden boards are destroyed by moisture, so waterproofing materials and special antiseptics must be used.

Dry laying is carried out in two ways:

On the floor beams.
Based on.

Floor beams cut into the walls of the house are the basis of the entire subfloor structure. The technological process of arrangement consists of the following stages:

Beam preparation. Elements should be with the most even surface.
Making grooves for laying on the top of the beams in increments of 60-100 cm.
Fastening bars or boards (4-5 cm wide) on both sides of the beams.
Preparation of floor boards.
Installing the boards in the resulting square frames.
Laying vapor barrier material. The seams are overlapped and carefully glued. Fixation of the material must be carried out above the level of the finished floor covering.
Laying insulation between the lags. It is necessary to leave 2 cm to the upper edge of the base for ventilation.
Laying waterproofing material.
Laying a finishing floor made of fiberboard or plywood.

When using this method, the rough sub-base will be carefully isolated from the ground, thus, the life of the floor will be increased. This method has one drawback - poor sound insulation. With any vibrations of the floor through the beams, sounds will be transmitted to the walls.

If there is a basement floor on strip foundation or grillage, the arrangement of the subfloor is carried out on the basis. In this case, are used supporting pillars, which significantly increase the strength of the structure.

The process of laying the subbase is carried out in the following steps:

Manufacturing bottom strapping from wooden planks or a bar.
Fixing the lag in the strapping grooves. The greater the width of the boards, the less frequent the laying step.
Leveling the ground and marking the installation of supports. The distance between the pillars and the foundation should not exceed 1 meter.
Arrangement of the foundation for supports.
Construction of brick pillars. A roofing material is laid on the foundation in two layers, then a cement mortar and two rows of bricks. On the top row, they should be perpendicular to the joists.
Laying soundproofing material on top of the supports.
Installing a log, starting from the walls of the house. The beam is fixed on wooden base metal corner, and on concrete and brick - with anchors.
Fixing bars or boards on the bottom of the log.
Plank flooring.

The main advantage of such structures is their low weight and lack of moisture. In this way, Finishing work can be done almost immediately.

You can see the process of work visually in the following video:

On the second floor

The method of arranging the subfloor on the second floor of the building also has its own characteristics. In this case, special attention must be paid to sound insulation and structural strength. And also the following points:

The nests for the logs are leveled with cement for the same laying level.
Plywood with a thickness of more than 5 mm is laid on the bars.
Soundproofing materials are located in the cells of the wooden crate.
To level the level, a concrete screed or plywood is used.
In case of expansion of wooden logs, it is necessary to leave gaps between sheets 10-15 mm wide.
Mandatory treatment of wood with an antiseptic.
All fastenings to floors must be made using large self-tapping screws or anchors.
To ensure reliable fixation, a solution with sand is poured into the gap between the nests.

Which material to choose?

The use of high-quality wood when repairing the base will ensure the strength and reliability of the structure. Such floors can withstand heavy loads for a long time. When choosing a material, the following factors must be considered:

Log section size. It should not be less than 150*150 mm.
wood species. The best option for flooring is the second and third grade of larch.
Beam size. The distance between the walls and logs after laying them in the nests must be at least 10 mm.
Material moisture. The maximum value of the parameter should not exceed 15%.

The price of the selected material will also depend on these factors. Expensive wood species do not guarantee the arrangement quality foundation. The first grade of many breeds does not withstand intense stress, and there is no point in overpaying.

The process of laying the floor along the beams has a number of features that should be taken into account: the laying step of the log, the dimensions and cross section of the material, the level of humidity in the room, and the air temperature. Subject to all the rules technological process flooring will serve long years.

In contact with

Draft floors on wooden beams - widely used architectural elements building construction. Depending on the specific location and features of buildings, they perform various functions and differ in the technology of arrangement.

Draft floors are used for the following purposes.

The manufacturing technology of rough floors largely depends on their specific purpose.

Design features of subfloors

Features of the manufacture of draft floors take into account the methods of fastening beams or floor logs. Beams can be installed on different structures.

Table. Structures on which beams can be installed.

Design name	Brief characteristics
	This option is used during construction log cabins or panel houses. On the columnar foundations load-bearing elements of the floor of the first floor are mounted. Due to the fact that the lower surface of the beams rests on the foundation, the fastening of the draft floors can only be on the cranial timber. They are fixed to the side surface of the log or beams. Except for those cases when the beams are made of round timber and do not have flat side surfaces. The second option is the installation of subfloors on top of the beams for the supporting base of the finishing floor coverings.
	Draft floors are made on logs, fixed to the side cranial bars or upper surfaces. A waterproofing barrier is used between the slabs and beams.
	The ends of the beams lie on the foundation strip or lower crowns log house. The draft floor can be installed both on the side surfaces and above or below the beams.

It must be borne in mind that the fastening of the draft floors on the cranial beam reduces the thickness of the insulation layer. If the width of the beams or lag is less than 15 cm, then it is undesirable to use this option. The fact is that the recommended minimum thickness of the insulation is more than 10 cm, with a decrease in this indicator, the effectiveness of insulation is significantly reduced.

Beams - supporting elements for the construction of a floor or ceiling, must withstand maximum design loads, have a margin of safety. Depending on the purpose and operating conditions of the premises, the thickness of the beams and the distance between them are selected. As materials, bars with dimensions of 50 × 50 mm or more or boards with parameters from 50 × 150 mm can be used. On lumber with flat surfaces the draft floor can be attached from below, from the side or from above, on round beams - only from below or from above.

Table. What elements does a classic draft floor consist of.

Element name	Purpose and description
	The main bearing element, perceives all static and dynamic efforts. In each individual case, individual calculations are made for linear parameters and distance steps. They can rely on posts, foundation tape, floor slab, facade walls or load-bearing interior partitions.
	Size - approximately 20 × 30 mm, fixed to the side surfaces of the beams, used for laying subfloor boards.
	Waterproofing is laid on the subfloor, which serves as the basis for the finishing floor. Vapor barrier is used to protect insulation from increasing relative humidity, it is used on the first floors or ceilings.

Depending on the specific placement and purpose of the subfloors, the listed elements may be added or excluded. We will look at some of the most commonly used types of subfloors.

Draft floor in a log house on beams

Beams should be thoroughly soaked with an antiseptic, preferably at least twice. The ends can lie on a strip foundation or beam, between concrete and wooden structures two layers of roofing felt waterproofing are required. The upper and lower planes of the beams are hewn with an axe, side surfaces skinned. The subfloor will be made from sheets of moisture-resistant OSB approximately 1 cm thick. Keep in mind that the final thickness of the slab should be selected taking into account the distance between the beams. The main selection criterion is that the sheets should not bend under their own weight. Cheaper materials can also be used: unedged sanded boards of the third grade, used lumber, pieces of plywood, etc.

Practical advice! If floor insulation is planned, it is recommended to keep the distance between the beams within 55 cm. The fact is that pressed or rolled wool has a standard width of 60 cm, due to this distance between the beams, the insulation will be pressed tightly against the side surfaces, and this greatly increases efficiency insulation. In addition, mineral wool does not have to be cut, which allows you to speed up construction works and minimize the amount of unproductive waste of valuable material.

Step 1. Set the beams in place at a given distance, check the position of the top surfaces - they should all lie on the same level. To check, it is better to use a rope. Stretch it between the two extreme beams and adjust the rest to this level. To fit, it is better to cut off excess height, if this is difficult to do, then you can use linings. Professional builders do not recommend laying wooden wedges, over time they will shrink. Much better to use plastic or metal. Level check the horizontal position of the beams.

Step 2 Remove the beam, unscrew from the square. In the future, the element must be installed in the same place, otherwise the linearity of the finished floor may be disturbed, unpleasant squeaks will appear when walking. Turn it over with the bottom plane up, put it in an empty place on the foundation.

Step 3 From OSB boards, cut strips 5–6 cm wide more than the width of the bottom of the beam. The length does not matter, if necessary, the strips can be joined.

Practical advice! In order to save material, in the lower part of the timber, non-solid strips can be screwed into squares. The distance between them is 30–50 cm. The subfloor does not carry any load, the mass of heaters is negligible, there is no need to make strong shelves to install the subfloor.

Bars are stuffed at the bottom across the beams - one of the possible options

Step 4 Using an electric drill or screwdriver, fasten the strips to the beam. Use self-tapping screws that are at least one third longer than the thickness of the OSB board. Otherwise, the fixation will be fragile. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use ordinary nails of the appropriate size.

Step 5 Do the same with all remaining beams. Unscrew them in turn, fix the OSB strips and install them in their original place.

Step 6 Cut the OSB boards to the width of the subfloor. If you have precisely maintained the distances between the beams, then you can immediately prepare all the elements. If for some reason the distances between the beams are not the same, then each strip will have to be measured separately.

Step 7 Lay the sheets on the shelves. There is no need to achieve a complete absence of gaps; the subfloor for insulation does not require exact observance of dimensions.

Practical advice! To make work easier, cut the sheets 1-2 cm narrower than the distance between the shelves. The fact is that the beam on the sides has bulges that narrow the gap, due to a slight decrease in the width of the sheets, it is much easier to install them in place. Another plus of reducing the width is a compensating gap. OSB boards change their linear dimensions quite significantly during changes in relative humidity. If there are no compensating gaps, then the sheets may swell. For a subfloor, this is not critical, but swelling indicates a low qualification of builders.

Step 8 To reduce heat loss, you can blow out all the cracks with mounting foam.

On this, the manufacture of the subfloor is completed, you can begin laying the insulation. How to do it?

Step 1. Put a vapor barrier on the beams and the subfloor, do not pull it too hard, fasten it to the tree with a stapler. For vapor barrier, you can use expensive modern non-woven materials or ordinary cheap polyethylene film. There is no difference in efficiency, but the price may differ by an order of magnitude. Vapor barrier is a must, do not neglect it. The fact is that mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to an increase in humidity. With an increase in the index, the thermal conductivity increases exponentially, which sharply reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Another operational disadvantage is that the material dries for a long time. This means that wet wool will have a long contact with wooden structures. Such adverse conditions significantly reduce the life of lumber.

Important! Never store insulation outdoors. If you suspect high humidity, dry the material thoroughly, use only dry cotton wool.

Step 2 Lay the first layer on the subfloor mineral wool 5 cm thick. Squeeze the edges tightly, do not allow cracks to form. Pressed mineral wool is slightly compressed and has elasticity, which allows it to occupy the most convenient place.

Step 3 Lay the second layer of insulation with offset seams. To do this, first lay the piece remaining from the last piece of pressed mineral wool. Using the same algorithm, insulate the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe subfloor. The thickness of the floor insulation for the northern regions of the country should be at least 15 cm, for the average climate zone 10 cm is enough.

Practical recommendation! It is not necessary to insulate the floor with one thin layer of mineral wool, a thickness of 5 cm has almost no heat-saving effect. Especially on the first floor, where there is a permanent natural ventilation and the heat from the premises is quickly removed.

Step 4 Cover the insulation with waterproofing. To do this, you can use any special materials. The waterproofing is fixed with a stapler, the width of the overlaps is at least 10 cm, the ends of the material are hermetically sealed with adhesive tape.

Step 5 On top of the waterproofing membrane on the logs, nail 20x30 slats or the remaining strips of OSB. Reiki will provide ventilation of the finished floor and will not allow mold to appear under it.

The underground must necessarily have ventilation openings that provide multiple air exchange. Do not forget to close the openings with metal bars that protect the underground from the penetration of rodents. Modern mineral wool has very thin fibers, rodents easily make passages in it and equip their nests. As a result, not only the thermal protection indicators worsen, but mice also appear in the premises.

On this, the black floor is completely ready, you can start laying the boards of the finishing floor.

Draft floor on the attic floor

It has several options, for example, we will consider the most complex of them. It is better to do the filing of the ceiling before the installation of the subfloor, but this condition is not necessary. When working with mineral wool insulation, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask to protect the respiratory organs, put on rubberized gloves on your hands.

Since there is no ceiling covering, nail on the bottom vapor barrier membrane. Fasten it securely, it will hold the weight of the insulation for the first time.

Important! When performing further work in the attic for walking, make special passages, put long boards in these places. To improve security, it is recommended to temporarily fix them. The boards will somewhat complicate the process of laying the insulation, but they will minimize the risks of unpleasant situations.

Step 1. Start laying insulation in the space between the beams attic floor. We have already mentioned that when calculating the distance between the beams, the standard width of the materials for thermal insulation must be taken into account. Lay as tightly as possible, if there are two layers, then their joints should be shifted.

Important! When laying rolled mineral wool, do not allow sharp bends - in these places the thickness of the insulation is significantly reduced, a cold bridge is formed. And one more piece of advice. Do not press hard on the cotton, do not artificially reduce its thickness. Unlike pressed, roll does not withstand any loads.

Step 2 Install a wind and vapor barrier. Rolled mineral wool is easily blown through by drafts, and together with the flow fresh air heat is removed. The membranes are fixed to the beams with a stapler. Professional builders do not recommend pulling the membranes strongly, it is desirable that they lie freely on top of the insulation. In the event of leaks, water will not enter the insulation through the holes made by the stapler brackets.

Step 3 Fasten the membrane along the beams with thin laths. Lay the subfloor boards on the slats. They can be screwed with screws or nailed.

Subfloor under laminate

This type of subfloor requires a more demanding attitude to the quality of the coating. If floors are made between floors, then insulation can be omitted. Warm air from the premises of the first floor does not go outside, but heats the second floor. Due to this, the parameters of the microclimate of the rooms on the second floor are improved. Warming is done only on attic floors.

The subfloor serves as the basis for laminate flooring and must meet three requirements.

Hardness. The thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams are selected in such a way that deformations of the planes are completely excluded under the maximum possible loads.
Humidity. The relative humidity of lumber should not exceed 20%. Before laying the boards, it is necessary to dry them in a heated room for several days. During this time, they will acquire natural moisture and will not change linear dimensions.
evenness. The deviation in the height of the plane cannot exceed two millimeters per two meters of length. Otherwise, the laminate floor will start to emit very unpleasant sounds appearing due to the friction of the elements in the connecting locks. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds. You will have to completely dismantle the flooring, level the subfloor and only then lay the laminate again. The work is long and expensive, it is better to immediately pay attention to quality. For rough floors, only sawn timber passed through a double-sided thicknesser should be used. The final adjustment of the subfloor to the laminate can be done with a parquet machine or hand planer. The choice of tool depends on the total area of coverage.

The evenness of the base should be checked with a long level or a rule, apply tools in various places on the subfloor and pay attention to the gaps. If deviations are found, the plane should be leveled with one of the tools. If the difference in height of the subfloor does not exceed a millimeter, then an unpleasant creak can disappear on its own after a few months of operation. During this time, the elements of the interlock will partially rub in, the abutting parts will reduce their thickness. Those that do not get used are slightly deformed, due to which the density of the locking joint decreases. These changes will not affect the quality and durability of laminate flooring.

When fixing the subfloor under the laminate, you need to slightly sink the heads of nails or self-tapping screws into the boards. The fact is that it is even theoretically impossible to achieve a perfectly even fit of the boards to the beams. Over time, in places where the boards sag, the nails may come out of the beams a little, because of this, the hat rises above the plane of the boards. This is highly undesirable for laminate floors. They are laid on a special bedding, have a sealed waterproofing. Hardware hats sharp edges damage the membrane layer, the tightness of the waterproofing is broken. Moisture that has entered through the holes between the laminate and the subfloor causes the appearance of fungi and rot on the wood. It is impossible to see the problem in a timely manner, it is detected after the lumber has lost its original properties. As a result, complex special measures are required for elimination, sometimes it is necessary to change the supporting structures.

On a note! Wooden beams should be able to move a little, never fix them in a stationary state. Today on sale there are special metal stops that allow the ends to move along the length.

And the last. by the most the best option for laying subfloors under laminate flooring, waterproof OSB boards or plywood are considered. Sheets of large size, due to this, the number of joints is minimized, it is much easier to smooth out sharp differences in height. It is necessary to lay the slabs with damper gaps about 2-3 mm wide, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material. Otherwise, swelling of the laminate floor is likely, their elimination will require the complete dismantling of both the finish coating and the leveling base.

smallpox stove

Video - Draft floor from OSB

A lot depends on the quality of the subfloor. This is the service life finish coating, and the overall quality of the floor. Modern building technology allow you to create unique floors, but the traditional draft floor on the logs is still popular. This technology has already been tested by time.

Everything you need to know about lags

Logs are called bars made of wood or polymer materials. They may have various sizes, as well as different shape. Logs are located under the subfloor covering. Among the advantages of such a solution are:

High properties of heat and sound insulation;
Uniform load distribution;
Ample opportunities for leveling surfaces;
Ventilated subfloor, in the cavity of which various communications can be placed;
Strength - the subfloor on the logs is able to withstand static and dynamic loads up to 5 tons per 1 sq / m;
Ease of installation;
Affordable cost.

Logs can be equipped directly on the ground, wooden or concrete floors buildings.

Classic floor plans

Floors can be both with underground space and without it. Those structures where there is no subfloor are called cold, but there are technologies that allow such floors to be insulated.

Draft floors with underground space have more varieties. So, they distinguish between cold and heat-insulated. The insulated floor is equipped with a layer thermal insulation material between lags or between supports.

The device of a simple cold floor on the ground

This scheme provides that the logs will be mounted on a dry soil base. The first step is to remove the entire fertile soil layer. Then the surface must be tamped with special care. Next - the surface is covered with sifted sand. If sand is not available, then crushed stone or even construction debris filled with sand can be used.

The resulting pillow also needs to be tamped. To do this, it is recommended to use a vibrating plate, but you can also make hand tool from improvised materials. It is a fairly heavy deck, which is equipped with handles.

Then make another layer of backfill. Here they already use calcined sand, slag, or dense clay. This layer will become the main one in the device of subfloors. Already on this basis, lags will be mounted. Therefore, such a base should not create conditions for wood decay. As for the thickness of the pillow, it should be 3 times greater than the thickness of the selected bar.

If not sand, but slag is used for the pillow, then it must be delivered to the site about a year before the start of work on the construction of the foundation. This material needs to lie down.

Wooden logs are mounted in the last layer. top line the bar must be flush with the plane of the base. Before installing wood in the ground, it is recommended to treat it with antiseptic materials.

The logs are stacked at some distance from each other. This distance depends on the width of the boards with which the subfloor will be covered in the future. So, for the installation of a subfloor in buildings made of wood, where work is completed with flooring based on grooved boards, optimal distance is 60 cm.

Insulated floors

The device of the insulated subfloor on the logs is slightly different from the scheme of the cold base.

So, the bottom of the pit, which resulted from the removal of the fertile soil layer, is carefully tamped, and then covered with waterproofing material. Next, fall asleep a multi-layer pillow. The first step is crushed stone. In this case, its thickness should be no more than 8 cm. This layer is also compacted, and then filled with lime milk.

After that, this layer is covered with roofing material, and then sheets of fiberboard 30 mm thick are covered on top. Then expanded clay is poured with a fine or medium fraction. The layer should also be at least 8 cm.

The warming base is poured with "lean" concrete, where the sand content is increased. After the mortar has hardened, the area is additionally covered with sand, and then the scheme for arranging a conventional cold floor is used.

Installation of logs for different types of floors

If the floor is wooden, usually the beams do not differ in perfect evenness. The installation of a subfloor can be difficult, because when installing a log on such floors, it will not be possible to obtain the most even horizontal surface. Logs should be strengthened on the sides of the beams.

The main advantage of this method is the absence of the need for spacers that adjust the height. Fastening is carried out using incomplete screws, where the length of the screw is less than the length of the log. The screw diameter must be at least 6 mm.

When the beams are too far apart, a second syllable is laid perpendicular to the first syllable, but more closely.

If the floors are concrete, then it should be taken into account that in this case it is necessary to take care of good waterproofing, otherwise the whole structure will be constantly damp. In this case, another subfloor device is used.

When laying floors, special attention is paid to waterproofing, as well as heat and sound insulation. Also, a wet or dry screed is required. And only after all this, the logs are laid and the finishing floor is laid.

For lag, you should not choose short bars. If the length is not enough, then the parts are joined to each other end-to-end. The bars are laid directly on the screed.

Installation of a log on soft insulation is not recommended. In such a situation, the bars will "float", which can lead to the destruction of the finish coating. If heat and noise insulation materials allow, then the logs must be positioned so that the insulating materials are located between the two bars.

Laying the lags correctly

Before starting work, the base must be thoroughly cleaned and treated with primers. Wooden parts are dried and treated with an antiseptic. It could be bitumen. The soundproofing layer can be made of slag or sand.

Wood before and after antiseptic treatment.

Installation of the lag is best done from the window. The gap between the wall is made up to 40 cm. After the logs are laid, the plane must be checked against the rule. If you do not see gaps, then everything is done with high quality.

Promising technology - adjustable lags

Gradually, new construction technologies reached these traditional floors. So, the subfloor device according to this method provides for finished beams with threaded holes. They add reliability to the design.

In addition, such lags have an adjustment function. This can be done by rotating special bolts, which makes it easy to change the height of the bar at any time. When the adjustment is completed, the excess part of the bolt can simply be cut off.

Wooden floor on joists

The tree is one of the most the best materials for the arrangement of rough floors. The floor, laid according to all requirements, has a long service life, does not require special care. Subfloor made of wood or plywood - an easy way to level a curved base, high thermal insulation performance, quick installation, cost-effectiveness and availability.

Plywood is best suited for subflooring, OSB boards or chipboard sheets. Ideally, if the plates are tongue-and-groove, and the thickness of the plate is about 20 mm. It is also allowed that sheet materials will be stacked in two layers.

Lay sheets start from the corner of the room. The first row should be placed with a tongue against the wall. At the same time, a gap is left between the board and the wall. It must be at least 10 mm. This is the so-called compensation gap. The next row is laid with an offset of two logs. If the board does not fit tightly to each other, it is necessary to adjust them by light tapping with a hammer on the end of the board or sheet.

For fasteners, a crate is used with the help of transverse bars. The flooring is fixed with self-tapping screws. joints sheet materials should be located on the central axis of the beam.

fine finish

When installing subfloors, it is important to get rid of small height differences and various defects in boards or plywood. To do this, the surface is ground or scraped.

Then, the floors must be impregnated oil impregnated, parquet varnish or cover with wax mastic.

That's all that can be said about the rough floors. It's simple and affordable way that will last for many years. How the subfloor is arranged on the logs can be seen in the video. The video clearly shows all the stages of work on different types bases and floors.