How to make the floor in a wooden bath. The floor in the bath is different options for arranging a qualitative base. Drain tray underground

The device of floors in the bath is one of the most responsible stages of construction. The floors in the bath can be wooden or concrete. In this article, we will look at how to make the floor in the bath do it yourself. In the article, the wooden floor device in the bath of two types: flowing and does not occur, as well as a device of a concrete floor.

Wood flooring device

As already been written in the first part, laying the wooden floor in the bath will require 25 pcs. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of 150 mm. For floorboards, it is necessary to put lags from a bar of 150x150 mm (200х200 mm) or logs with a diameter of 14-18 mm.

Wooden floors can be two species - flowing and non-pending.

Bathing floors

Legging floors - These are floors when water flows into the gap between the boards and goes into the ground under the bath.

The advantage of flowing floors in front of the floors:

the device of such floors is less costly in financial terms;

low laboriousness of work on the device of such floors.

The disadvantage of the flowing floor before the non-flowing is that it is cold floor. Cold flooring in the bath is appropriate to do in the southern regions of the CIS.

Non-breaking floors for a bath

Unfurning floors - This is when water flows across the floor into a specially made hole and is going to the waterborg and the water pipe flows outside the bath. Such floors have the so-called "black floor" and their device is currently more common than the device of flowing floors.

The advantage of non-pending floors in front of the floors is what the floor is warm, as it has a "black floor" and a layer of insulation. The disadvantages include the fact that the device of such floors has a greater complexity compared to the device of flowing floors - you need to make a bias of the floor, "black floor", drainage, etc.

Preparation of the base for wood floor

The construction of the wooden floor in the bath begins with laying the floor lag from the pine or larch massif or the boards. Boards for the floor as best choose from the same wood as lagows. The floors in the bath should be located under the slope in order for water to flow in a certain direction. To do this, it is necessary to make lag laying not at the same level, but with a drop, which forms the angle of inclination of the floor in the bath.

Note: for the floors of the floor, the gender of the floor is optional.

Lagged needed by the smallest distance from one wall bath to another. If the bath, as in our case, has equilateral walls - 4x4 m, then the lags can be laid, without taking into account the distance between the walls.

Lags laid in the transverse direction to the flow of water in the floor bath

The only thing to do is to determine the direction of water flow, if the floors in the bath will not flow. Lagging is needed in the transverse direction relative to the water drain.

In order for the laugs to have sufficient rigidity and did not bend under the load provided on them in the center of each lag, it is necessary to make support chairs. Support chairs can make wooden, brick or concrete (monolith).

If the support chairs are made of bricks or from a tree, then it is necessary to make a supporting pad from concrete under them, the thickness of the site should be at least 20 cm, be sure to reinforced at least the Rabitz mesh. From support, the platform should perform at a distance of about 5 cm on each side.

Lag supporting platform design

Under the base of the site, you need to dig a pits with a depth of 40 cm, the bottom of the bottom and the edges. At the bottom of the holes fall asleep the sand with a layer of 10 cm and thoroughly tumble, shed water. From above to lay a layer of about 15 cm from a large rubble or broken brick and also thoroughly tamper.

The composition and dimensions of the layer of the supporting platform under the lag

From the edged boards to make a formwork and establish it into the pit - the edges of the formwork should perform above the ground level of at least 5 cm, at the edges to make waterproofing from rubberoid or toli.

After the formwork is installed, you can start cooking concrete. For the preparation of concrete mix, it is necessary - sand, fine crushed stone or gravel, cement and water. Preparation of concrete mix can be made in the following proportions:

1 part of cement;

3 pieces of sand;

5 pieces of fine rubble or gravel.

When a cement mixture is ready, it must have a consistency that will allow the tack of concrete - i.e. The concrete mix should be thick. Setting the first layer of concrete into the formwork - about 12-14 cm, it needs to be thoroughly tamped and put a piece of grid - chains, a pre-trimmed formwork in advance. From above to lay the second layer of concrete, in terms of edges of the formwork and tamper.

Note: concrete platforms need to be left to complete concrete drying on one day.

Before you arrange a support on the platform - wooden or brick, you need to make a layer of waterproofing. To do this, it is necessary to apply a layer of molten bitumen on the surface of the site and put the rubberoid on it. The height of the supports should correspond to the height of those places to which the ends of the genital lag will rely

Waterproofing of reference sites

If the Ban is a belt foundation, then the top of the support and the top of the foundation should be on the same level.

Laga supports at one level with painter

If the foundation is columnal (as in the described embodiment of the bath) and the ends of the lag will rely on the bars of the bedding crown, then the top of the support should be at the same level with the top of the mortgage bar.

When the supports are installed, you can proceed to the preparation of the so-called underground, or rather the surface of the soil underground.

Failure underground for water juice in the bath

If the floors will be in the bath, and the soil passes the water well (sandy soil), then in this case, it is necessary to make a backing from rubble, with a thickness of about 25 cm. Water, stacking through the slots in the floor, will pass through the crushed stone and soaked in the sand. Crushed stone will serve something like a filter, and the surface of the soil in the underground will not be laid, the humidity will be moderate, and the underground will sleep well.

If the ground under the bath, which poorly absorbs water, then in this case you need to make a tray for a stack of water into a catchment pit, from which water will go beyond the battery.

Tray for water drain into a catchment pit

To do this, under the flowing sexes you need to make a castle of clay with a bias to pick up water. The castle can be made of concrete, but this is not the necessary money costs, quite enough castle from clay.

For the device of the clay castle, it is necessary to squeeze the layer of rubble, a thickness of 10 cm on the surface of the soil underground baths and tightly tamper, after top, we sleep a layer of clay with a thickness of 15 cm and smash in such a way that the surface of the soil has a slope from two sides to the drainage tray relative to the horizon line.

Clay castle in the underground bath

For not flowing floors in the bath, the surface of the underground can be insulated with a clay, but it should be noted that between the layer of clay and lags there is a distance of at least 15 cm, which is necessary for underground ventilation.

Near the wall, in the wake-up compartment you need to make a pit and the tamper of his walls, strengthening them with clay. From the pit to bring out the pipe along which the water will flush from the pit (water receiver). The pipe must have an inner diameter of at least 150 mm so that water flows from the underground as quickly as possible.

Laying Lag.

Laying lag in the floor for a bath

For an impacting floor, lag laying must be started from the walls to the pit for collecting water. The extreme lags have the highest point in relation to other gender lags. In extreme lags, there are no need to do.

Cutting size in lags

At the following lag, you need to make anything with a small force - about 2-3 mm, the same word need to be done in the lag in the place that comes into contact with the support (wrinkle on the width of the support). The bias of the floor will be equal to about 10 degrees. The depth of the word depends on the number of lag - if the entire floor is four lags, the depth of the wrist will be deeper than in the lags, the number of which is equal to six.

For the flowing floors, the lag laying can be carried out from any wall and without a slope, lags for flowing floors can be at one level relative to each other.

Lags in the flowing floor at one level relative to each other

At the beginning of the bars for genital lags, it is necessary to be selected according to the size of the bath, with the calculation, so that the lags do not reach the walls of approximately 3-4 cm. This distance is necessary for ventilation between the lags and the walls of the bath.

Constructive elements when laying lag

Lags must be laid on the mortgage bar and the support poles only through waterproofing - through the ruberoid, pergamine, etc. Also, every lag must be treated with an antiseptic.

Verification of the horizontal of lags with a construction level

The horizontal of lag laying is checked using a construction level. If the air bubble is located not in the center, as shown in the figure, it is necessary to twist the places on the lag that rest on the support or to the mortgage bar, it is necessary to sabe until the level does not show that the lag is laid smoothly relative to the horizon line.

Lug Floor Lag for Bath

The uniformity of lag laying relative to each other is also checked by level. To do this, you can put one board on lags, which has a flat surface, and put a level on it. Checking the uniformity of laying lag is checked at three points near the walls and in the center. If necessary, lagows need to be fired with linings or to grab the lags to the desired level.

Distance from Lagi to Fundament

Attention! Near the foundation of lags should be located directly at the edges of the foundation at a distance of 10-15 cm from each edge, as shown in the figure.

After laugs are laid, and you will start flooring flooring, you need to bring the stove foundation to the flooring level.

Closing the foundation brick

To do this, on the playground made in advance, you can post the foundation for a refractory or red burned stove, as well as a foundation for the stove with concrete (monolithic).

For the device of the foundation of bricks, the following materials will be required - directly brick itself and cement-sand mixture for brick laying.

The foundation can be put completely out of the brick. In this case, approximately 104 pcs. Bricks, but the middle can be broken by bits used by the brick. If we remove the concrete monolithic foundation, it will be necessary to do - formwork, reinforcing the strapping, and this will increase the complexity of the foundation device. So a simpler method is a brick foundation device.

Flooring Pole

The filling of the flowing floor boards is carried out from the unedged boards, which must be pre-stamped, especially need to pay attention to the fact that the ends of the boards must have a smooth surface.

Installation scheme Lag relative to walls

First of all, it is necessary to cut the boards on the size of the bath, taking into account the fact that there should be a ventilation gap between the boards and walls. It is possible to start the flooring of the floor from any wall located parallel to laying boards.

Installation scheme Lag in the flowing floor

When the boards are cropped, it is necessary to put the first board, retreating from the wall about 2 cm and nail with nails (for example: the board has a thickness of 40 mm, which means the length of the nail of at least 80 mm).

Nailing Scheme for Lagging Fastening

The nails are driven into the board at each edge, retreating from them about 15 mm, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the nails should be climbed at an angle from the center of the board - the angle of inclination is about 40 degrees. Each lag board is attached at least two nails.

Lag laying scheme relative to each other

After the first nipple board, the next board is stacked, the gap between them must be at least 3 mm, as a template for gaps, you can use the cutting of the Fiberboard sheet and insert it between the boards.

Note: in the pre-banker, the floor can be floor without gaps.

After the floors are set, the boards need to be covered with two layers of olifa. Typically, the boards do not paint paint so that the floors are better kneaded.

Non-flowing flooring

Blowplate for non-flowing floor

Non-flowing flooring is carried out from t-shutty wood boards of wood.

The boards are installed in a groove inside the bath, since during the fitting the board it will be necessary to tap in the end, on which the groove is made, as the spool can break it, because it has half the thickness of the board.

Black Paul Bath Floor

But before starting to the flooring, it is necessary to make a "black" floor. For this, along the edges of Lag, it is necessary to attach the bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm. To these bars between the lags lay the "black" floor of the boards cutting, you can use the unedged board, the board of the second or third grade, as well as the horn.

Waterproofing non-pending floor

When "black" floor is experiencing, waterproofing (rubberoid, pergamine or waterproofing films) is on top.

"Pie" between the lags in the non-breaking gear bath

As a heater, you can use clayzit that needs to be filled between lags. After frustration, the ceramizite also needs to make waterproofing.

Scheme laying fixed floor bath

When the device "black" floor is finished, you can lay the boards of the pinched boards. Boards in the waters and steam room can be not fixed with nails, so that you can remove them for drying. It is possible to fix such a floor: from the edges, the boards are attached with the help of bars cross section 20x30 mm. Bruks are attached to lags with screws - "Ceremonary" and when it takes to remove the floor of the bars easily removed.

But the device of the so-called removable floor in the bath is not very popular with builders, mostly floor shield is stuffed from tightly fitted boards and the floor will not be removable (see)

Ventilation space between "black" floor and main

Scheme of simple ventilation

In this case, you can make the simplest system of ventilation of the space between the "black" floor and the panel flooring of the main floor.

There is another technology of wooden flooring device - multi-level floors. This is when the floors in the bath are not at the same level relative to the horizon line.

Diagram of the device of multi-level flooring for a bath

So the level of the floor in the pre-banker is located above the floor level in the wax of 3 cm, and the floor level in the steam room is 15 cm above.

Such a floor serves:

to reduce the volume of steam room, which will save time for air heating and reduce the fuel consumption for the bath, as well as floors in the steam room can be insulated with a thicker layer of heat-insulating material, which will make the floors in the steam room are still warmer;

the floor level difference between the oil separation and the pre-tribader serves as waterproofing, the dampness does not take place directly in the underground.

Note: based on the construction experience of the bath and considering examples of other builders who are engaged in the construction of a bath, I can say the following: the floors can be lifted only in the steam room, it gives an effective effect. But the floors in the oil and in the pre-tribades can be done at one level, since the ingress of dampness from the caustic in the pre-banner eliminates the partition with pair-waterproofing and the doorway threshold. But there is always a choice - and everyone decides how it is better to make the floor in the bath, I only brought examples of the device, and the dear readers remains for you.

Types of pipes for ventilation device in the bath

For a device of such ventilation, it is necessary to leave in the corners of the bath in the coils in the oil separation unit in the floor for the subsequent installation of asbestos-cement, PVC pipes or metal pipes from galvanized steel. The diameter of the pipes can be different from 50 to 100 mm.

Note: if the ventilation pipe will be held in the steam office, then in this case it is best to use a pipe from galvanized iron, since in the steam separation the temperature can reach more than 90 degrees and from PVC pipes can proceed a specific unpleasant odor.

Fasteners for ventilation pipes in the bath

The installation of pipes is carried out after finishing the inner walls of the bath. If the pipes are used for a small diameter to 50 mm, then they can be hidden under the walls of the walls of the bath. The ventilation of the pipes of the larger diameter is suitable in the corners of the oil compartment and fasten to the walls with the help of clamps (see photo). Usually, pipes with a large diameter are installed in the baths, in which the so-called bunny day takes place more than once a week, but three or more times a week. This increases the degree of moisture in the bath, underground and requires more functional ventilation, and the pipes with a large diameter remove the evaporation pairs much more efficiently than the pipes with the smallest diameter.

Bath concrete device

In the bath except the wooden floor, a concrete floor can be made. The advantage of concrete floor in front of a wooden floor is the fact that concrete floor has a longer service life (wooden to 6-10 years old, and concrete at least 30 years).

The disadvantages of concrete floor include the fact that the device of such a floor is more time-consuming with respect to the wooden floor (preparation of concrete mix, laying and tamping concrete, floor reinforcement, thermal insulation device between layers of concrete).

Concrete floor diagram for baths do it yourself

Before the device of a concrete floor, you need to make a pit that will serve as a watershed, and make a drainage - lay a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm and take it to the street into a wastewater done. The veil walls can be concreted - the thickness of the walls should be at least 5 cm. The sizes of the pit for the bath 4x4 m can be 40x40x30 cm.

For laying concrete At the beginning, it is necessary to prepare the basis. This will require crushed stone or gravel, as well as a brick battle or natural stone. On the aligned ground, it is necessary to lay a layer of broken bricks with a thickness of 15 cm, squeeze a layer of rubble with a thickness of 10 cm and thoroughly tumble.

When the base is prepared, you can lay the first layer of concrete - the thickness of the layer of 5 cm, and the floor must have a bias toward the pit. The bias of the floor can be monitored using a construction level.

When the first layer of concrete froze, you can squeeze a layer of clay 5-8 cm thick and top to put a second layer of concrete that needs to be reinforced at least a rabbit grid. After a thorough tackle of concrete, a specially made simple device or best to use a battery vibrator for the murdration of concrete, the surface of the floor must be aligned by applying a cement-sandy solution and smooth the surface, such as the cutting board with smooth end.

The cement-sandy solution is best prepared with the addition of scattered sand - perlite. This material will provide not only a reliable cement flooring, but will also improve the thermal insulation of the concrete floor. Perlite is a specific material, and work with it can be difficult, in terms of preparing a properly mixed solution of the desired consistency.

Two perlite buckets takes and carefully smashed into a concrete mixer or a special container in which cement solution will be prepared. Next, it is necessary to fill the water bucket with a volume of 10 liters in a container with perlit and thoroughly produce.

Note: Since perlite is fraught with sand, after adding water and produced by the kneading, the volume of the solution will decrease by about 1/3.

If perlite mixed well with water, it is necessary to add cement - about half of the volume of 10 liter bucket and resume mixing components. After 5-8 minutes of mixing, you need to add 5 liters of water and continue the kneading.

When the mixture of components reached a homogeneous mass, it is necessary to add another perlit bucket and approximately 2 liters of water (no more!) And continue the cement mortar. Zam must continue until it turns out almost a bulk mixture. This should be paid attention to this - at least the mixture and became a bulk, it is impossible to add water. It is necessary to give to stand the cement mixture about 10 minutes and continue the knee, in the process of the knee, the cement solution will become plastic, and the water will perform from the mixture, standing out as a separate element is an excess water.

When the cement mixture became plastic, you can lay it on the floor and make a cement screed. The term of frozen such a mixture is 4-5 days. From above, the floor in the bath can be chopped by tiles, only not tile otherwise the floors in the bath will be slippery, which increases at times in the bathingness in the bath with such floors.

Note: the floors in the pre-banker can be made wooden.

The main task of the floor in the bath is not easy to ensure security and convenience when moving, but also to play the role of a high-quality sewer device capable of removing water, but not to rotate and not spoil. The most important thing is to familiarize yourself with the basic principles of flooring in the bath.

Types of floor

When choosing the materials used, it is worth remembering that the option is only two: it is either wooden boards, or concrete. The concrete version will be more durable, it will last more than 50 years, but also work on its creation will have longer.

As for wooden boards, they are stacked by lags, and there is little time and effort on it. However, the service life of the boards is about 7 years, and then the floor will have to change.

Wooden type of laying bath flooring can be divided into two types:

Flowing floor. The right thing is considered the simplest type that is installed quite easily. Between the main boards you need to observe a distance of at least 3 mm, but it can be increased to 2 cm. The photo shows an example of such a floor.

Tip: Do not nail the wooden floor. It is necessary so that the whole structure can be taken out into the street in warm weather for graze. Such a maneuver will help keep the service life of the product.

The main feature of the underlying type of floor is that water easily falls under the boards, and in the lower coating there are special gaps for drain. But such a floor provides for the presence of an inner drainage design.

Non-flowing floor. The design of this bath floor is quite complicated. It is installed on, the so-called rough floor, which is constructed with the insulation, if it has a need. There should be at least two centimeters between the wall and boards, and the nails for fastening the floor are used quite large - the average size is 8 cm.

To pave such a floor, you need to take durable boards, made or deciduous trees, and install them in two rows.

Important: Boards must be perfectly smooth, without gaps. When installing, they should be tightly pressed to each other, since water should not be seamless to the coating.

The non-pending floor is installed on the lags fixed to the supports. Supports are made from concrete, and their height should be strictly controlled so that it is at one level. Concrete need to pour under the supports from the board. The concrete mixture of the M100 cement is suitable, formed by wooden structures, which, after drying, are removed. A concrete is laid on the purified surface, after which the appropriate amount of time is waiting (depending on the characteristics of the concrete used).

When erecting an unintellive floor, it is necessary to make a gap, which will differ height from the main part of the floor. It should also consist of wooden boards, clearly cut out of wood and firmly pressed to each other. A siphon is inserted into the thickness of the gap, which has accumulated water in a septic tank or sewer ditch.

Instead of a siphon, you can use a special tray that will match the depth of the boards. It should be installed under a slight inclination so that the water is easier to appear out of the bath.

How to make concrete floor

The draft floor for the suitable fit of the floor of the bath is made mainly from concrete. However, it is better to alternate the components, and this is better in the correct sequence:

We strengthen and wear the soil. It should be in a dry state, otherwise, when dried, it can be reduced in volume, and this will threaten the durability of the design. Soil thickness - 5 cm;

Firming layer. It consists of a gravel-crushed stone mixture, which should be laid with a thickness of 10 cm;

We put the concrete - the first 5 cm;

If the insulation is needed, and it is practically necessary to install it in an uninimal field, felt or clamzite can be taken as a basis. The main thing is to withstand the necessary time to dry. The layer is better to do small, because the material can lose in strength;

A layer of concrete with a chain grid - stacked for maximum reliability and durability;

A layer of concrete that will level the surface. The concrete is applied with a thin layer, and the main task when it is applied - to create the most smooth surface, removing all the recesses and gaps;

Coating.

Important: A smooth surface of the floor should be achieved, taking into account the inclination of the entire floor at 10 degrees. This is done so that water flows as quickly as possible to the right place and appeared in the sewer.

Choosing materials

A tree for a bath can be different, but larch is the best option, however, it will be more expensive than pine, fir, alder and birch. The larch is comparable in its qualities with an oak, which in durability and deadlines wins in all other types of material for the first floor.

It is best to use boards with a thickness of 30-35 mm and a width of 12 cm.

If you buy a heater in the store, such as cotton, it should have a thickness of about 8 cm.

Important: Boards need to dry well after processing them. If this is not done, the material twists during operation, cracks will appear and the service life will be significantly reduced.

Lining bars must have a size of 70x100x2960 \u200b\u200bmm. Lags - 5x18x24.6 cm. Card bar - 4x4 cm. The black floor is covered with boards of any sizes, but the thickness should be about 20-25 cm.

Order assembly order

One of the options for assembling durable and durable baths for the bath is presented in the image:

The procedure for such:

On the ribbon foundation laid out the lining bars;

On top of the lining bars houses two layers of a rolled backrueroid;

Tip: Lining bars are installed clearly from the wall to the wall so that the gaps are absent. The ideal option is to establish bars on the support pillars that are made from cement. There are enough two such pillars for the reliability of the design, however, if the bath is large, you can do three.

Lags are installed. They need to be knitted with nails. You need to install one lag at each wall and one after 10 centimeters from the previous one. The next is mounted in the center, and from it you can calculate the distance to the following (about 20 cm);

Install bars for roughing, which are attached from two sides of the lag tight nails;

On the damn floor, the moisture protection membrane is laid, fixing with nails;

From above, the membrane is installed by a layer of basalt wool. It must be divided into segments that will correspond to the size of the area between the lags;

Further, the pile floor consisting of harvested boards is stacked. It is important to observe the presence of a gap of 2 cm between the finishing floor and the heat insulating membrane. It is not recommended to leave a greater clearance, since the floor can begin to be fed.

Important: The finishing floor should be securely fixed. For this, 8 cm thick nails are used.

How to fix different floor design elements

The lining bar must be fixed directly to the foundation. For this purpose, anchor bolts with a diameter of 1.2 cm and a length of 14 cm are excellent and 14 cm long. The bolt must be mounted on top, since all other placement methods will be risky and unreliable. Even if the attachment method is selected from above, you need to ensure that the concrete does not crack. Therefore, the work is carried out carefully and slowly.

Tip: Each bar of the draft floor must be attached to four bolts.

The supporting timber to the support post is fastened with galvanized corners of 6x6 centimeters. To the crawl it needs to be attached with the help of self-tapping screws. The reference pillars should be another fastening - screws 0.5x5 cm. Each mount will be enough one by each design, on each side. One thing - to Brus, one thing - to the support post.

Supporting bars and lags should also be attached with each other with the help of corners for a similar principle.

Card bars are connected to the previous layer simply. The number of nails that are used for fastening does not matter. It also does not matter at what distance connections occur.

Bounded boards are attached to a clearly defined corner of 45 degrees. It is possible to fix them in the groove or spike - at the discretion of the wizard. The main thing is to make fastenings reliable and correct.

Waterproofing should be fixed with each other and with lags only with brackets. Between the mounts it is necessary to withstand an equal distance that should not exceed 15 centimeters. It is also not recommended to fasten less than 10 cm at a distance, otherwise the material can start a little bit. Stepter for the work can be taken any, and small, and big. It is important to try out the steppeler before starting work on the draft material. If the ruptures are created, it is necessary to adjust the width of its fastening. First of all, it all depends on what the quality and origin of the purchased thermal insulation material.

Thermal insulation material, when all actions on fasteners have already been done, should be covered with a special self-adhesive ribbon. For example, the Brand Isofix will be an excellent option.

Features of the laying of the first floor

At first, the rake is taken, the thickness of which can be in the perfect version of 2 cm. It is installed along the shortest wall with the help of self-tapping screws. This design will help to make a support on which the entire finishing floor will rely.

The very first board must be installed with a distance from the wall of about 2 cm. The mount can occur with a spike or groove to the wall.

Boards in places where they intersect with lags, and each board intersects in several places, should be fixed with self-tapping screws. It is important to consider that wooden boards from a sharp and non-accurate exposure can burst, creating cracks, so it should work gradually. For high-quality fastening, it is enough for one screw in the area of \u200b\u200beach intersection with lags.

Thus we connect all the boards, fasten them only with lags. Between the boards are not attached, this simply does not need. At the same time, each board should start in spike or in the groove, depending on the selected fastening method.

Tip: so that when screwing out a self-pressing board did not burst, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees - besides, it is very convenient.

If you need to cut the board, it should be done with a disk saw, which will help ensure the operation of the maximum accurate size and neat look.

What instruments can come in handy:

Screwdriver;

Plane;

Hacksaw (for wood);

Self-tapping screw, dowel, bolts;

Drills for solid alloys;

A hammer;

Level;

Steppeler;

Wooden materials of the corresponding sizes

Tip: Best to lay clean floor so that there was an angle of inclination in the other side, which is sent to the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help extend the service life of products, since the direction of water also plays a role in the processes of rotting.

And the last thing you need to consider are to be taken into account: if you cut the boards, be sure to handle the seeds of the antiseptic.

Bath floors have several significant functions that substantiate their differences from the "residential" standards. In addition to the guarantee of safe movement in conditions of constant moistening, they play the role of the component of the sewer system. The competently arranged floor in the bath will provide a full-fledged water removal, does not rot and not wear ahead of time. To do this, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the specifics of various technologies for the construction of bath floors and choose the most acceptable scheme. For the floor of the fundamental bath structure, a separate project with mathematically accurate calculations is being developed. But most of the compatriots who bought a ready-made log cabin and engaged in the design of the bath personally, it suffices to get general concepts about the difference in the principles of structures. Any of the proposed home-master schemes will be able to independently upgrade the needs and requirements of its own construction.

Future Design Choice Landmarks

The owner of a country bathhouse initially must determine the type of removal constantly pouring on the floor of the water and with the material for the floor facilities. Basically in buildings recognized by the obligatory component of country sites, the floor is poured with concrete or put the boards on the lags.

The concrete base will require more labor effort, finance and time, but will serve without complaints more than half a century.
Its hands to build the floor in the bath is the easiest and cheaper of the sawn timber, but after 7-8 years, its wooden elements will need to be replaced.

Designs from wood according to the type of drainage and the associated complexity of the structure are divided into the flowing and "non-pecked" subcategories.

Pros and cons of the flowing gender

The flowing floor is the easiest and most cheapest. It is a boardwalk, between the elements of which leave the slots for the immediate output of the effluent in the ground. There are no additional sewer "delights" except in the underground of the drainage pit, there is no insulation either. Therefore, the flowing floor is suitable for cans in the southern regions and for country temporary use.

Build such a floor for a bath personally easier than simple. It will not cause difficulties to replace damaged elements and full repair. The boards are not nailed at all to the lags, they can and need to be removed and carrying out for ventilating and drossing to the street. If desired, instead of drainage pit, you can install the pallet, the drains from which will be displayed in any sewage object.

Specificity of non-flowing design

The system does not have much more complicated. It is constructed from two rows of boards. The upper flooring, which goes on top of the lag, is performed from a pinned pine or larch board without the slightest gaps. Bottom is suitable for the draft floor. There is no flowing gender to the discharge of "dry" and can be equipped with insulation.

The flooring flooring is placed with a slope for the placement of the effluent and the subsequent drain of them into the sewer ditch or septic tank. At the bottom point of the skipping surface, a hole is done to which the siphon is connected for drain drain. The hole can be replaced with a tray of full length. The tray is installed with a slope for the collection of polluted water.

What should be concrete cake?

Concrete floors in the baths are poured into three technological stages. Urgently "sandwich" design consists of six components, it is:

prepared for the fill, the rammed and fortified primer base;
the first layer of concrete is 5 cm;
insulation, most often clay or felt;
reinforcing concrete layer with a chain grid;
leveling layer;
coating.

Tamping the soil and laid on top of it with a strengthening gravel-crushed stone mixture at 15 cm, as well as the fill of each of the "sandwiches" layers is performed with a slope toward the drain pit. As a result, the design should turn out normal . The slope is standard, like wooden structures 10º.

Determined with the scheme according to which the flooring device will be performed in the bath. Do not forget that if the floor has to keep the weight of the capital, not a portable bath furnace, the creation of the foundation for it needs to take care in advance.

Features of the construction of floors of wood

The main element of the structures of wooden floors for the baths are lags based on a bull-type mortgage bar or on the edge of a tape base.

All locations of the Lag with the foundation elements, it is necessary to exhibit the two-three layers of the rubberoid with the coating warmed or dissolved in the solarium bitumen. Instead of this budget option, you can use eurobitum or other efficient waterproofing material.

Boards are stacked on the lags. In the case of a device of flowing floors, the board is laid with an equal empty gaps between them 3-4 mm, a technological two-centimeter clearance should remain around the perimeter between the filling and walls of the bath. The hosts of small buildings wishing to know "how to make the floor in the bath" can lay lags on the salary of the salary without the construction of additional devices if there are less than 3 meters between the supportive points of the lag.

The direction of the lag in the construction of the flowing gender determines the smallest distance between the walls. When building a non-occurring structure, the direction of installation of lag should be perpendicular to the direction of flow.

Construction of support chairs-pillars

Flooring in large bath buildings will require a preliminary setting of support chairs-chairs with a cross section of 25 cm. Masters planning the laying of boards with a thickness of 19 mm, it will be necessary to build support poles every 70 cm. For a plaque with labeling 22 - after 80 cm, for the board with 29 - after 90 cm.

Under the posts make small foundations of 20 cm with power or trambud sandy soil. The foundation, filled into a formwork from a low-grade board, reliable. The masters studying the floor of the floor in the bath should be aware that the edge of the base under support should on each side of the post "perform" by a 5 cm minimum.

Supports above the foundation can be folded from bricks, make logs or cast monolithic from cement. Cheap and quickly, you can make a reference column from the asbestos pipe with a suitable diameter. The cutting of the pipe is burned into the ground, the ground around it is trambed, then a cement solution is poured into the finished formwork.

Before laying lag poles, the supports must be aligned. The level of the upper plane must coincide with the level of the upper plane of the elements to which the edges of the lag will be relying.

Arrangement of the underground bath

The host with the working wooden floor, you need to find out how the filtration properties are characterized by the soil on its site. If there is an excellent natural filter with sand under the bath, for the arrangement of the underground you will need only fall asleep a 25-centimeter gravel layer. It will perform the function of the cleaner passing through it of the drain in front of the transit into the ground. Between the lags and the top plane of the backfill, MIN 10 cm distance should be.

If under the bathhouse soil with low filtration properties (loam, clay, soup) will have to work. It will be necessary to make tray for the transportation of wastewater in the pit, from which dirty water will be outlined outside the structure. To this end, under the underground design, the castle is arranged from clay with a slope towards collecting pitfalls. Clay can be replaced with concrete, but it is too expensive.

The underground of the non-flowing gender can be covered with a clay insulation. There should be a 15-centimeter ventilation gap between the ceramisite and lags. In the wedroom branch near the wall make a pit. Walls and bottom of this water acceptance trance and deceive clay. From the pit collected in it, the drains should be dispersed outward, for which the pipe is placed with the size of at least 15 cm in the section.

Installation of the Lag system

Building the flowing floors in a wooden bath, lagows are stacked on the prepared places, protected by waterproofing of the place horizontally. For non-flowing floors, it is necessary to form a bias, with the aim of cutting down in the lag from the side directed to the place of waste collection, increase by 2-3mm. As a result, it turns out the necessary slope of 10º.

The level of the foundation under the bath stove to the level of the floor is adjusted after the installation of the lag before laying the flooring.

The installed lags are laid, not navigating, the flowing floor boards. The floorboards of the non-flowing design are nailed with two nails with a tilt of 45º, but first lay the draft floor from low-grade boards and equip it with insulation. The grooves of the tipped flooring board are directed inside the bathroom.

Initially, it is better not to knock the floorboard of the non-flowing gender to the lags, but only "out". After completing all the work on the decoration of the room, the baths need to dry, and then fit and finally nourish the boards.

By perimeter, the bath floor is trimmed by a plinth. It is necessary to establish it so that under the rails does not fall down from the moisture walls. That is, the walls of the walls should "lie" on the plinth and tightly leaving him without gaps.

Nuances of the device flooring from concrete

By tradition before the fill, you need to make a pit, equip her pipe communicating with the wastewater. Then the concrete floor in the bath is arranged according to the above scheme, in the description of which some specific features of the installation of floors in the bath from concrete were not mentioned:

If the sewer system of the monolithic floor displays the drains into the ground under the bath, it is necessary to make outstands from asbestos pipes in the base of the bath. These holes are needed to remove a negative smell, which in time inevitably appear.
If the drains are discharged through the pipe to sewer facilities, the receiving edge of the pipe should be equipped with a shutter. The cunning folk gate is a pop-up and falling rubber ball, and factory devices are also suitable.

In a brief description of the construction of the monolithic floor, waterproofing was not mentioned. Protect from moisture you need a warming layer from all sides. Bitumen, polyethylene film, rubberoid, etc. can be used as an insulator.

Paul from concrete refer to the category of "cold" designs. In order for the legs of the feels of bath procedures not frozley, the portable wooden lattices are narrowed. They are taken out for drying to the street and enter the next visit.

The described common schemes in general are familiar with how to make floors in the bath. This is not strict leadership, but only the principle of arrangement is the general recommendations that the builder must be finalized and improved in relation to its property. Even if there is no desire to independently build floor, constructive differences and the specifics need to know each of the owners, so that the bathhouse brings only peaceful pleasure, and not "strained" endless problems.

The bath is a specific structure, whose construction is presented with special requirements. When erecting a Russian bath, it is important to take into account the two main features of this building: increased humidity and high temperature. The floor in the bath is the coldest place, while the materials for it should have only natural origin. If they contain synthetic components, then toxic substances will be separated when heated. The floor in the steam room has its own characteristics, as the highest temperatures are characterized for this part of the bath. How to make the floor in a steam room?

Primary requirements

The floors in the bath must comply with certain safety requirements. Select the coating for bathing pilaf is needed, taking into account injuries and security indicators. It is better to refuse from the tile coating, since the slippery surface of the floor can lead to undesirable injuries. The floor design is formed taking into account the high humidity of the room. If you prefer to see the boarding up in a pair of your bath, then it should be done only from coniferous wood, sustainable and to moisture, and to rotting processes.

Paul in steam room is preferably done solid. In this bath, there is no need to create a flowing design. The coating may not have cracks, but be sure to descend the slope towards the plum, which is located above the drainage pit. Floor edges Experts recommend to close the waterproof plinth. Such a plinth will perform the role of a protective barrier and protect the wooden flooring from rotting. The lower edge of the walls under the plinth will be closed, so the moisture will not be able to penetrate the walls of the walls.

Removable lattice panels are often used as an additional coating in Russian baths. Such panels can be placed in steam room. Wooden grids are impregnated with antiseptic means and after each procedure is well dried. Removable panels can be easily replaced with new ones, as it is inexpensive.

The floor from the tile in the steam room of the Russian bath is not entirely appropriate not only because of a slippery surface. This coating is strongly heated, so you can get a foot burn from the tiled floor. The use of wooden lattices easily solves this problem.

If you want to make a concrete floor in the bath, then it is pre-thinking to think through its insulation. Mineral or basalt wool are most often used as insulation. As a cushion of insulation, the base of rubble and sand is poured, after which they are engaged in hydro and vaporizolation.

For long-term operation of floors in a steam bath, a ventilation openings should be provided in the foundation. They will provide the influx of fresh air necessary for drying the floor, prevent the processes of rotting and eliminating unpleasant odors.

For floor covering in a steam room, choose natural materials, the use of linoleum, laminate or other similar coating in the bath is not allowed: when their surface is heated, you can poison the released toxic elements. Chemical compositions for wood processing should also be used with great care. The best option will be a complete refusal of them if it is impossible to do this, then pay attention to the means manufactured specifically for such purposes.

You can make the floor in the steam room with your own hands, the main thing is to choose not only good building materials for the floor, but also pick up high-quality fasteners. All items must be resistant to moisture and high temperature. Conventional nails will quickly become rusty and leave dirty drums on wood, and hot fasteners can also cause a burn.

Chernovaya Pol

Paul baths should consist of draft and finishing coatings. The modern designs of the flooring of bathrooms involve the combination of concrete base and the upper board of the floor. Old ways that include a wooden base go back. A similar way to arrange the floors of the bath is not effective due to the rapid flow of the rough coating from moisture and rotting.

A concrete tie for a floor in a steam room is tilt to the plum. Water removal from this room baths do not provide, as it is already in the separation for washing: to organize another drain does not make sense. Works start with flooring boards on beams and styling waterproofing layer from polyethylene film. The film is covered in several layers, the walls of the steam rooms around the perimeter are covered with damper ribbon.

Concrete floor in a steam room under the influence of high temperatures will be expanded, damping tape, using the role of the shock absorber, protect the walls from mechanical exposure. All work can be done with your own hands, the concrete base is poured on the principle of the standard screed. The solution is poured on a prepared base for a height of 10 cm, for the strength of such a screed before the fill, a reinforcing grid should be laid.

After the concrete is dry, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation materials. The floor in the steam room does not participate in the heating of the bath, and the base of concrete is low temperatures. Experts advise to install a polystyrene layer on top of the concrete base, which will reflect heat back into the room of the steam.

When the insulation is fixed, you can go to the installation of beacons and the fill of the finish tie. Lighthouses are installed taking into account the slope of the surface to the hole for water flow. The finish fill is made by standard cement mortar with the addition of liquid glass: this substance will become an additional binder element and moisture protection.

Wood flooring

The final flooring in the bath can be different, you can leave a concrete tie or to cover it with a tiled or porcelain. Under these conditions, wooden grids will have to use wooden grilles for a comfortable visit to the bath. The most optimal option for the finish can be recognized by wooden floor, such a coating is appropriate to use both the bathroom package and in the wake-up compartment. Boating floors - the best solution for the bath. They are made from environmentally friendly material, pleasant in appearance and retain the spirit of the Russian bath.

Boards before laying are pre-processed by special compositions for baths. The impregnation will protect the wood from the water and spread the fungus and mold. Then lags are installed on the draft coating. Usually they are attached to the walls of the cut into corners or brackets. Specialists mounted them in the masonry while the walls are erected. To understand how the locations of the lag with the walls should look like, it is recommended to consider the photo of the wood floor arrangement process in the bath.

Lags must be installed strictly horizontally, during the work, it is necessary to constantly check with a level. It is not necessary to make the outbreak of the final fingerboard, the final coating will be installed on even lags. The floor in the steam room is exposed to moisture. So that water flows onto a concrete base, the boards should be installed with some gaps. The optimal distance can be considered a value of 0.5-1 cm - such slots will create inconvenience when visiting the bath, and the water will flow freely. When leaving the gaps, it is necessary to consider that after several visits to the pair board, under the influence of humidity and temperature, it will slightly expand, and the distance between them will significantly decrease.

Boards are fixed to lags with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping caps should not perform on top of the board, so they should be plugged into wood, and then close with a special heat-resistant composition.

Wooden floor in the steam room can be done in a few days, but the manufacture of concrete base takes much longer. If you comply with all the requirements for flooring in the steam bath, you will get high-quality coating, resistant to the effects of specific conditions of the room and ready for long-term operation.

So that the floor in the steam room served as long as possible, you need to know several important points. Any work requires an action plan, so before starting work it is highly recommended to draw up the drawing of the future bath. In the process, it is necessary to determine the parameters of the structure and its premises, the location and size of the main internal structures. Wooden flooring with a concrete base occupies a lot of space and reaches a minimum of 20 cm in height.

How to make reliable floor in steam room? In order for the floor to serve as longer, wood for its manufacture should be as dry as possible. If the humidity of the boards is high, then all the flooring will lead after the first use of a steam room for its intended purpose. Wood must be good to impregnate with special protective substances, sometimes the procedure can be repeated more than once. The better the material will be protected, the more it will last.

When installing wooden flooring, the gaps should remain not only between the boards, but also between the flooring itself and the wall. The reason for this location of the boards is the same: wood will swell over time and stood into the wall. To avoid distillaces of walls and gender, experts advise to leave a pair of centimeters around the perimeter.

From any synthetic materials and chemicals containing toxic substances, it is better to refuse. Harmful elements highlighted when heated are capable of spoiling your health, and the bath is a place where the soul and the body is cured.

Despite the high temperatures in the steam room, it rarely exceeds 30 degrees, but on the floor constantly increased humidity. Therefore, with the arrangement of the floor in such conditions, there are features.

In this article, we will tell you about how the floor is done in the bath in the soil, the process of preparing and laying a wooden floor laying.

Types of baths for a bath

In most cases, it is the floor of a tree for choosing: it is not slippery, it is cheaper, and easy to install.

Concrete species usually choose for public saunas, since the tree would have to change every 2-3 years from intensive use.

The flowing wooden floor is being done in cases where it is necessary that the moisture is free to pass through the gaps between the boards and removed from the sample. Compared to other species, such a design has a simple building technology. This option is suitable only for warm regions, as it does not have thermal insulation.
Non-pending wooden floors make tightly docked broken boards. The gender of the floor in the bath is made towards the drain period, which will ensure the derivation of moisture into the sewage system or the drain pit.
Such a cake of the floor in the bath allows you to make waterproofing, vaporizolation and insulation, which highlights it from the previous version.
In the steam room, it makes no sense in the steam room, since the price of the structure increases greatly, and there will be a lot of water there. For ease of cleaning, you can make a two-way gender of the floor.
The concrete tie of the floor has an advantage over wooden species in high durability. The screed will last you 30-50 years old, and the tree is less than 10 years old.
Although the cost of its device goes out and more, on the operational characteristics of concrete greatly beats the tree.

Floor design

As a rule, the installation of the floor in the bath in the steam room is made on the elevation of a relatively zero mark of the first floor. It is enough to raise it by 7-10 cm and in the steam room will be preserved better.

In the washing department, on the contrary, the height of the floor in the bath is done below so that water does not penetrate other rooms.

Main materials

It is believed that in the question of which floor is better in the bath, out of competition is larch. It is comparable to the oak on hardness and wear resistance, and it becomes stronger from moisture. The only minus its use is the high cost.

Similar boards of pine or spruce will cost 2-3 times cheaper. If it is possible to use larch for moderate money, it is better to choose it. If not - you can buy birches, pines, ate, fir, alder, can buy. A draft floor - in the bath can be made of pine for savings.

An important rule that should be observed is to lay only dry boards. Raw wood during operation will strongly change their size and shape.

The thicker will be the board, the more it will be deformed. 21-25 mm thick boards will be the least to change the size, but they will be fed. To fix it, you can lay lags more often. The optimal option is the boards of 35 mm with a width of 12 cm.

For insulation, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are most often used.

Hydro and vaporizolation is made from a vapor barrier membrane, type of isospan. Her dignity is that she misses moisture only one way. Due to this, on the one hand, the moisture does not pass inside, and on the other hand there are excess condensate and steam. This allows you to keep the insulation always dry and it does not lose its characteristics.

Also in this case, we will use:

Bar 70 * 100 mm;
Lags 50 * 180 mm;
Card bars 40 * 40 mm;
Plywood or cutting boards with a thickness of 20-25 mm to make a double floor.

Dismantling of the old floor

If you follow the old coating, first of all you need to dismantle the old floor of the frame bath.

It will be necessary to remove the top layer of the soil, about 25 centimeters to get rid of the fungus, which came to the ground. Old boards need to immediately burn.

Tip!
Concrete walls can be warm the construction gas gun to destroy the entire fungus.
Additionally, it needs to be treated with antipbande to derive the remaining pores of the fungus.

Below the floor level is elastic coating waterproofing.
A layer of sandy backfill is laid on the ground, it is thoroughly tram.
Then fiberglass and vapor barrier is stacked on the sand. From above, they need to be sprinkled by another sand layer. It is necessary in order to protect the lower part of the flooring from moisture, fungus and rotting. The sheets of insulation among themselves need to be glued with scotch.

Tip!
If the foundation showed rat Lases, then it must be sealed with a concrete with the addition of liquid and broken glass.

Pie and floor features

In this example, floors are used in the bath in the soil. To get the desired elevation level, 70 * 100 beams are mounted before laying the lag on the columns.

They will take part of the load, evenly distribute it, increase strength and simplify the leveling of the base.

First of all, waterproofing from two layers of rubberoid is placed on the foundation and brick columns.
Then the retaining beams are stacked. Their edges will lie on the foundation, and in the center they support 1-3 columns.
Lags are attached over the beams on the corners. They must be cut from two sides along the length of 2 cm to create a slope.
The cranial bars are nailed to the lower part of the lag, forming an inverted letter "T". They are needed for fastening the draft floor, so there are no particular strength here, any self-tapping screws or nails are suitable.
The blackboard boards are stacked, and a vapor barrier membrane is attached on top of them 20-30 cm. Then it will need to be glued together with the waterproofing of the walls.

On the draft floor and closes with vapor barrier. It is attached to lags with a stapler. The jokes are sickling with scotch.
At the end, fastened the flooring of the pinched board. To hide the fasteners, they are mounted with self-drawing in the groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Note!
Under the first floor, you need to provide ventilation gap in 2-3 cm.
To do this, you can use higher laugs, or to fill additional bars to them after fixing vapor barrier on the insulation.

Production of retaining columns

To exclude the deflection of the support beams from high load, you need to make additional backups (chairs) in weak places. Naturally, the lack of places will be the center of beams and a place under the furnace. Chairs can be made of wood, brick, concrete.

Instructions, how can the concrete column columns do it:

To make concrete columns, mark the places of their installation and dig 40 cm.
At the bottom of the pit, you need to pour 25 cm layer of sand and rubble for the substrate and toll them well.
From the boards, make a formwork about 25 * 25 cm (size of 1 brick) and a height of up. Place the roofworks on the inner walls of the formwork.

Tip!
You can make a fixed formwork of columns from asbestos-cement, sewer PVC pipe or twisted runnerdoor.

Tie a wire reinforcement frame in each bar from the rods with a diameter of 10 mm.

Prepare a mortar from cement, sand and fine gravel (in proportions 1: 3: 5).
Before the fill, make a mortgage in the center of the bar for convenient beam mounting. It is best to do from the stud with carvings.
Fill the columns to the same level and leave them to dry out at least a few days. Full strength they will only raise in a month.

Installation of rough floors

Tip!
Treat all wooden elements by an antiseptic before starting work.

Squeeze and secure the retaining beams on the foundation. Pay attention to the edges of the lag and beams at the junction with the wall, the temperature gap is 1 cm. To the foundation they are attached to the anchor bolts 12 * 140 mm.
To make it easier to trim the remaining lags at one point for a drain, use one of them as a template.

When laying a draft floor, you can use almost any boards, as it is needed only for laying thermal insulation. At the same time, still be sure to process them with an antiseptic and remove the bark before laying.
Waterproofing Breeping to lags on the stapler every 10-15 cm with an adhesive and nasky on the wall.
The insulation is placed close to each other, with displacement of the joints. Mineral wool should not be crumpled, and it is cut exactly in the sizes of cells.

Then, the same layer of vapor-waterproofing to lagas is then dripping.

Laying of the first floor

The first plating board is condicted with an indent from the wall of 1-2 cm on top of the self-tapping screw. Try to make it closer to the wall as possible to hide the pad of the plinth.
Subsequent boards are fastened in the groove to the previous one. For their dense docking among themselves, make a Dobannik with a spike. Through it, you can pon the boards with a hammer, without fearing to damage the docking elements.
If you need even stronger docking, then make pegs with spike. Metal staples feeding to lags, you can use them to crift the boards, as shown in the photo.

To hide the hats of self-tapping screws, all subsequent boards are attached from the side of the groove, screwing it there with selflessness to lags at an angle. So that the boards pressed tightly and did not crack, before this you need to drill holes.
When installing the last plan, it will need to be trimmed by a width of the disk saw. It is necessary to attach it as the first, self-drawing on top.

Conclusion

Having made the wooden floor in the frame bath, you can be sure that it is enough for at least 10 years of active use. If you want to make a warm floor system, put the tiled floor in the bath, make drain, then you need to make a tie.

On the video, this article shows independent laying of the floor in the bath.