Photo reports of construction Baths from a bar. We build a bath with your own hands - a phased outage of construction. Lower strand and draft floors

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided on our own on our dacha. There we already have a capital house, and besides, no problems with electrification and water supply is not foreseen. The choice was stopped on a frame building, as it is not only economical, but also built in days.

After preparing the project of the bath 4.5 x 4.5 m, I started purchasing a bar, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tile, insulation, OSB, hydro and vaporizolation. Also ordered the delivery of chamotte and ordinary red brick, clay refractory for the oven. By the way, the stove for the bath I constructed myself. He helped me in the masonry an experienced master-sticker, nevertheless, I wanted the oven to get the most efficient and safe. The scheme of the furnace was on the sheet into the cell, the construction process (including the construction of the house) tried to compose as in detail as possible so that my experience was useful to other people.

Of course, you are hard enough to build a bath enough, so in some moments there were two more brave workers with her son.

Planning

To begin with, the project of our future bath was drawn up. We thought out the location of the rest room, shower, steam room, place of installation of the furnace. According to the project, the location of water and sewer pipes was calculated, places of laying of electrical cables. The roof we decided to build a double with a window on the front. Under the roof should be a place for the attic, on which we will store the tool or bath brooms. Total windows, without considering that under the roof, there will be two. One thing as a source of light in a rest room (120 x 120 cm), other two for additional ventilation of the steam room (60 x 60 cm) and washing (90 x 60 cm). Do the door to install metal, for greater safety of the property during our absence in the country.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden staircase and a double canopy, also made of wood.

The foundation was decided to build from asbestos-cement pipes. A total of 24 columns, and 5 of them will hold the oven. In the future, the scene will be laid around the foundation of the bath and the lavender will be equipped, because I am not a grieving desire after pleasant procedures to go on a raw dirty yard.

We have been placed in one of the corners of the site. Near the high fence and trees. The perfect place, as I think, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build on the lawn near the bath font or small

Foundation

The foundation, as I said, under our bath column. First, we are not without the help of mercenaries removed the soil layer with the grass growing on it. The platform was leveled, after which they began to make marking.

The first angle was planned, stuck in the ground peg and aligning him on a plumb. For further markup, an urban and five-meter roulette was useful. The cord was tied to the first peg, measured 450 mm, checked the angle and stuck two more kids, respectively indicate the second and third corners of the bath. Similarly, stretching the cord, installed the last fourth peg.

Despite the fact that the corners we checked by the coal, the diagonals shown small inaccuracies. I had to correct them, slightly shifting the stakes and clearly align them in terms of the level.

The next stage of the work was the markup of the columns location, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was noted, just a shallow pntachy arm of reinforcement.

In the bath there will be one interroom partition connected to the angle of the furnace. Using the roulette, my son and I did measure and noted the position of one column, which will hold the partition and four more columns, which will continue under the furnace.

After all the calculations and marking, it's time to drill the pits to the foundation poles. By land, they will leave for one and a half meters and another 30 cm hang around out of the ground. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left pegs. Jama dug up pretty quickly - workers dried by a benzobour, the son helped to carry the land. By the way, the diameter of the pits was about 30 cm, that is, 5 cm larger than the diameter of asbestos-cement pipes.

So that the columns stood tightly, at the bottom of the holes I poured a layer of gravel and sand, after which it was tumped by a hand-made trash. Made it himself, perpendicularly jacked to a long birch log bar bar. The principle is simple - the gravel fell asleep, took a log, lowered to the pit and knocked them several times.

Sand and gravel plucked in every pit, tumbled and put pillars, under the oven - 5 pieces

Cement for columns and son we knew in a small electric. Cement, sand, slightly rubble, stirred and poured water. The columns were floodied in all the rules. At first, the pipe fell into the pit, then the first layer of solution was poured into it. The pipe we raised that part of the glass of the glass to the bottom of the pit, after which they lowered it, aligned and even then layers of 20-30 cm poured to the top. Each layer had to be seal using all the same logs with a crossbar. The benefit of the diameter was less than the diameter of the pipes. In order not to stain pillars, concrete lily through a narrow chute and plastic funnel. It turned out quite carefully. After the fill, we went to the concrete, rebar of the reinforcement (hairpins with thread). The upper edge was left a bit stitching over concrete, in order to further attach the bars of the lower strapping. The last place was covered with sand into the space between the walls of the pit and pipes. On this work on the construction was temporarily completed.

Two days later, how to rest, I played the foundation for the furnace. Cuts a sheet of chipboard on 5 parts - 4 for the walls of the formwork and 1 for the bottom. The biggest leaf tried on the support columns, then went to drill holes in it under the studs, and at the same time it was pinned with nails of sides. The resulting box with holes I planted on the studs, prepared nuts with the washers and, aligning a sheet in terms of the level, slowly tightened fasteners. On the bottom of the formwork under the battors.

To the foundation under the furnace turned out to be stronger, I made a reinforcement frame. Found a welded grid, cut out two pieces in almost the size of the formwork and welded the pieces of wire so that the framework turned out to be volumetric. Look at the scheme, it shows how the rods are located. Of course, Ideally use a welded grid, but to independently bind the soft wire with separate reinforcements. Such a connection is more plastic and does not destroy almost never.

The formwork with the laid reinforcement frame was poured, kneaded with a portion of shallow crushed stone. There is nothing to tell here - poured, they kicked out the wire bubbles of the air, they tumbled, covered with a film and left to stick. This process is long, takes a whole month. Waiting for my son did not begin, deciding during this time to make a frame of a bath, a roof and some concomitant works.

Before you start laying the beams, I went in between the pillars of the sewage pipe and water supply, so that then it was not necessary to be subject to lag.

Lower strand and draft floors

The lower strapping is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation columns. Bar I took a well-dry, 15 x 15 cm and treated Sezheng. Humidity in the bathhouse is quite high, wood without impregnation is simply starting to rot.

I joined the bars by the method of "in the paw". For clarity, drawing a diagram with dimensions. In the work used hacksaw and a grinder. At first, all the ends got off, then lay the beams in the glade before the bath and checked the correctness of the connections.

As long as I did this, the son put on the foundation of waterproofing - deprived the tops of the pillar of the bituminous mastic and stuck on her pieces of rubberoid.

To put the strapping on the foundation, I had to drill holes under the stiletto sticking out of concrete. The bar was laid directly on the pillars, made markup at the place, after which I already produced the drilling. Having placed the first two vessels, put them on the supports, checked the carbon so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, only after that I screwed the nuts-locks. By the way, under the intermediate pillars we did not drill holes, the reinforcement of the spill, so as not to interfere. Nuts screwed the timber only at the corners of the bath. Two more segments of timber laid in the place where the interroom partition will be.

There was a turn of laying lag flooring. To once again not suffer with cutting bars, I purchased the plates with holes for anchors.

The boards took a cross section of 150 x 50, sawed and brought up with beams using the fastened fasteners, self-tapping and screwdriver.

From above lags, I sewed OSB sheets. It turned out quite good black floor.

Zero ready, black floor - 22 mm osb

Prices for OSB (oriented chipboard)

OSB (oriented chipboard)

Assembling frame and rafting farms

Assembling walls

Walls we collected from the same boards with a cross section of 150 x 50 mm, bonding them between themselves using metal perforated plates (corners). In theory, the distance between the racks should be from 60 cm to one meter, it turned out that we did not care that the boards were set somewhat closer over and under the jumpers.

Walls are assembled on corners and iron scams 45 mm

We made an assembly on the lawn near the bath, it was much more convenient to produce measurements, cut and fixation. The assembly is performed very simply - first the two upper and two lower boards are bonded, then rectangles of windows are collected, after which the missing jumpers and support are added. Additionally, we strengthened the design of the walls of the ships. Also, in order to strengthen the design, over the three window and one door jumpers, we attached with self-draws (they took galvanized, 45 mm) more on one board (pay attention to the photo).

The walls were installed alternately, starting with the frontal. Alone and even together it is very difficult to establish a design without distortion, so the assembly was made in a feather - I, my son and three assistants. The walls between themselves and from the floors were bonded by stainless nails with a length of 100 mm, driven them into two rows every 45-50 cm. At the end of the walls, they laid and knocked another row of strapping boards. This method of frame construction resembles a children's designer. We collected the walls and installed in just three days.

Rafyla

The roof of our bathhouse bath with hanging rafters. In total, we made 11 farms. The photo shows how we raised them to the roof.

Farms made with a bias of 45 degrees and strengthened with two pits. Having made one farm and gripping the elements perforated plates, I continued to work using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of the roof of my bath will be based on the upper strapping boards, attached to it with corners. Pay attention to the pressure made in those places where the rafters will touch with the upper strapping, as well as on the ends of the rafter, where I cut the corner for a more aesthetic view of the sinks.

Stropile farms

The rafting farm that performs the function of the front, was reinforced by four vertical strips, and in the center I nailed two jumpers in order to install the ventilation window in the future.

Two extreme farms were collected from all two boards each. These farms we fucked last. The photo shows the retaining their planks. Thus, on the back of the bath and above the facade, we created small canopies.

Frame and almost ready roof

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for timing

Installation of metal tileage

I decided to cover the Pural Matt Finnish metal tile, because its matte coating is most resistant to burnout and mechanical damage.

Before installation, the metal tile I was used on the roof of the waterproofing layer, which was fixed with thin rails straight to the rafters. Following with a small gap fastened the boards of the crate.

I broke the sheets of metal tile on the crate. Conventional self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so they purchased special, painted in the tone of the coating. Metal tile I laid in one row, following the following scheme:

• the sheet was raised to the roof of ropes;
• work began from the lower right corner. The first was leveled relative to the eaves and attached with special self-drawing, and they screwed them off to the end, so that there was an opportunity to correct the position of the sheet;
• the second sheet was laid with the allen in one wave and again screwed up self-drawing to the crate;
• the last sheet of the row fastened when the second row was laid.

Immediately, in order not to return to the roof several times, cut the lining and laid the cornices.

Installation of the drain system

The drainage chute mounted with helpers. I chose a car's gutter because they are the most durable, although plastic are cheaper. The gutter bought a 100 mm width and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the eaves of my bathhouse is 5 meters each, the distance from the eaves to the scene is 2.5 meters. Based on such data, I acquired two pipes with a length of 2.2 meters, two outlet funnels suitable for gutters, two drain knees, 4 strokes for gutters. Another 4 knees needed to connect pipes to funnels.

Pipes are attached to the wall of the clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and the brackets are 10 pieces, I will mount them on ease of each meter. I also needed four locks to bore three-meter gutters.

Work began with markup. I took a stepladder, roulette, marker, thread and climbed under the roof. I needed to pull thread so as to attach a groove with a slope of 5 mm per 1 m, that is, with a shared slope of 25 mm.

I attached two extreme adjustable bracket to the crate (15 cm retreated from the edge) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope of the roulette. The remaining brackets fastened so that they touch the thread. Next, nailed to the crate of a cornice bar.

By the way, I have done all this work even before installing the metal tile, and the gutter immediately laid when all the coating was mounted. Pipes connected when they made an outdoor lining of the walls of the house.

The gutter joined the locks. I applied to the rubber gasket sealant and joined the pipes, leaving the gap of about 3 mm between the ends of the jammed elements. Such a clearance is needed to compensate for temperature expansion.

In the grooves, I sawed the holes in the form of the letter V, took the funnels and connected each, just starting the edge for the outer bend of the gutter, and then bent the flange on the front edge of the gutter. I installed the funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the head of the gutter.

On the ends of the grooves installed the plugs. Drain knee was attached to a rivet pipe. Spider, which is inserted into the funnel, did not buy, he flashed the wire to keep garbage.

Pipe holders I fixed dowels. Pipes are collected very simply - insert into each other and fasten the clamps that are pre-joined by a dowel to the wall.

Wall sheath bath

For the outside of the walls of the walls of the bath, I chose the plates "isoplas". They have a good paroque ability, and the material is natural. Plus, these plates are the stiffness of the stiffness of the walls of the bath. "Isoplaty" I took a 25 mm thick, cut the jigsaw and fastened to the carcass with nails.

Green plates - isoplaspa, vapor permeable. Roof - Pural Matt Metal Account

On the plates of "isoplace", I pulled the film "Isosan". This material is also hydro and windproof, but at the same time passes steam. The material I fucked the stapler, making the allen horizontally and vertically about 10 cm.

From the inside the bath I insulated basalt wool. The plates had to trim, because they did not enter the space between the racks. Additionally, watts did not attach anything, it was good enough.

Already at this stage, my assistants began to make a plumbing solution from polypropylene. It is clearly visible in the photo. I chose such a hidden type of pipe mounting from aesthetic considerations. In the future, they will all be hidden under the finish line.

The outer decorative plating the bath was performed by clapboard. This material was not chosen by chance. First, the bath, trimmed by a tree, has a presentable species, secondly, the wooden lining allows the walls to "breathe" and the condensate does not accumulate in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To ensure the necessary air layer, I strained thin wooden slats with a width of 3 cm and the thickness of the total half astimeter.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Heat insulation materials

Films for socle

By the way, it was after I fought the rails before the start of the montage of the lining, began to install a tide for the base. I took the planks of a green metal. The width chose only 50 mm - it is quite enough for the bath. To fasten the flexible, first pulled the thread, checked the line with the level, after which I started installing from the far corner of the bath.

He took the first bar, in the center of the pencil, outlined the line across the profile. From this line to the right and left to the left 5 cm, put the points and connected them so that a triangle formed. This triangle carved with scissors for the metal, after which he hit the bar, put it to the wall of the house and twisted special screws with washers. To be clearer, I apply a scheme that I found on the network.

The remaining profiles around the perimeter fastened the same way - simply screwing the screws and along the way checking the horizontality. All junctions launched a frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the planks, additionally strengthened the foam base with the base - caused it in a small amount under the plank.

Installation of clapboard

Mounting the lining decided using kleimers. Of course, you can simply hang up the boards with nails, but it is quite ugly.

My first board and I just pressed against the wall, leveled and recorded self-drawing by screwing them along the edges of the plank. Then, in the grooves of the first board, kleimers inserted in the grooves of the first board (inserted next to the landscape slats, pair insulation) and nails knocked in the existing holes. The second board inserted in the groove of the previous one. Through the intermediate bar, both boards with a hammer so that they joined tightly. Next again inserted kleimers and secured them with nails. The rest of the boards were attached similarly, sawingly unscrupted in the window and doorways.

The last triangle under the roof I just pinned the nail.

When finished with the walls, built a small one over the entrance door. In the future, I brought it to mind, turning into a double, trimming metal and installing a street lamp under a canopy.

Window

The windows are a separate story. You need to install them, observing technology and not allowing distortion. In the bath, the windows should be not only the source of light and provide ventilation, but also to keep warm.

I ordered the windows yourself in one company in advance, but I installed everything. To begin with, I took the vaporizolation and waterproofing tape. The first focused on the perimeter of the window frame from its inner side, the second - with an outdoor, that is, with street. The edges of these tapes in the future I bow to the "Izospan".

Rama installed, shot plastic wedges-struts to form a two-chamber gap for foam. Complete to the windows there were mounting anchor plates with holes in which I screwed up long screws. After I swam the gaps and checked all over the level.

By the way, when installing the sash, I only removed from one window - the largest. Small windows installed, without removing the frames.

a door

I ordered the door to the metal so that there were no detractors in the winter in winter.

At first I took off the door with the loops to try on the box in the opening. All measurements turned out to be accurate, and the box fit perfectly. I fucked the box with self-drawers through the eyes, having previously hanged on her wedges for alignment. The gaps between the frame at home and the door frame filled with a foam assembly when it dried, hung the door leaf.

Bath ceiling

To improve the ceiling, I took the usual cutting board from larch and neatly nailed her to the beams of overlapping. In the place where the hatch for access to the attic carved the rectangular hole.

Next, the work continued already in the attic and after the bath oven was built. I laid a foil vapor insulation on the draft ceiling, on it - basalt wool slabs, tightly inserting them between the beams of overlapping. On top of the wool, I pulled the polyethylene film and secured it with a scotch. Finally, just nailed another layer of edged boards. It remains only to make the hatch cover and secure the stairs. The fasteners were included in the kit, I simply screwed all the details to the beams of overlapping.

I purchased a staircase, a sliding, equipped with a finished hatch cap. However, that this cover does not stand out on the ceiling, carefully crossed it with rails. It turned out well, the hatch in a closed form became almost imperceptible.

Wiring

I have been engaged in the issue of electricity, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. The photo shows that the wiring, as well as the water pipes, I did the hidden, laying the wires at the stage of the inner insulation of the walls of the bath and before finishing.

All wiring - in metalworks, connections in boxes on terminals. In the T-shield, the general UZO for 30 mA, then 3 chains

Electricity pulled from the house through the air, the good distance is small. A hook was screwed into one of the walls of the bath, the same was screwed into the wall of the house (the distance from the hooks to the ground is about three meters). I pulled a durable cable between them, around which he wrapped the conductive cable.

The pictures are visible clamps that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted:

• the CIP wire is moving out, it is prepared for a clamp;
• the SIP wire is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
• wires "are crushed";
• anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

Sockets, switches (IP-44 class) and shield I installed in the pre-tribbon. The distance from the floor to the sockets took 90 cm. In the steam room and the washer pulled the wires only for the lamps (she tried to do everything away from the furnace), because in these rooms it is too humid and the socket is simply impossible.

Cables took copper, stretched them through the non-flammable metal corrugation, which was attached to the clamps. Some where I had to drill holes in the support beams to spend corrugation. Podrottitals put when she crossed the walls with a wall. And the sockets themselves, switches and beautiful lamps (for the wage took with heat-resistant flappon, IP-54 class) I have already installed last time.

I make grounding. Grounding was made as it should be a triangle, vertical corners of a strip of 40 mm. UZO triggers "at times"

Grounding was made, as it should be a triangle, vertical half-meter corners were equipped with a strip of 40 mm. To do this, I had to enlist the help of a familiar electrician who had a welding machine. Near the bath dug a triangle trench. Knought the triangle in the ground cooked from the corners. Then another part of the steel strip was welded, which brought over the ground near the wall of the bath. By the end of the band, the bolt M10 was welded. Next, it took to drill a hole in the wall of the bath to pave the copper grounding conductor (I had 8 mm in diameter) from grounding to the distribution panel. We wrapped the conductor to the bolt, closed the entire case with a terminal box, and already over the shield worked a qualified electrician and part-time my friend.

All about everything went about two hours. I processed the metal strip to the bitumen so as not to rust. Dranches buried, rammed, the next summer there is a lawn there.

Sewerage

In the bath there will be a shower, and water procedures are planned in the steam room, so the installation of sewage is needed. As an end point for collecting stock, I have provided a drain well. Did a semi-a-half meter with a diameter with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, the bottom of the tamper, poured sand and shallow crushed stone. Then in the pit we installed two meter GBB rings. The junction of the rings was missed by cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - on the bayonet

Pipes led from the washing and wage. Another pipe spent from the site of the Pissar. In the floor made three holes, inserted pipes in them. Three pipes were connected to each other fitting. The total pipe under a slight bias on the proofled trench was laid to the well. The length of one pipe was not enough, it was necessary to connect the two straight line segments. All joints are siliconed. At the bottom of the trench, I was pre-added sand, they also fell asleep the pipe after laying.

The well closed round zhb plate with a hole. The neck was built from the brick, and instead of the lid adjusted a metal hatch for a gas crane. It is a small diameter, but sufficient for the inspection of the flow level in the well and the pumping of shinking by the assessing agent. And I need to completely climb inside, I think so.

Looking hatch. Instead of Luke put a gas crane hatch. You can see the level and pump out. But not need to climb

Indoors installed drain sinters with siphons and filters. Compact item that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. When choosing, it prefers the product with a metal grid, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grill itself is square with a round hole in the center, when laying the tile did not occur for a long time with sharp. Drain shuting up in parallel with the fill of the tie of the floor and the styling of the tile, what will tell further.

Machine for cutting brick - Bulgarian on a Chinese bed

I developed and designed I personally myself. The masonry carried out the liver, pushing out my sketches. The work began before the arrangement of finishing floors, the reasons, I think, are understandable.

At the previously flooded foundation was the root roaster and laid the first row of bricks. To prevent distortions, each row of bricks first laid out without a clay solution. To check the horizontal, the level was used. The plumbing was also stretched to control masonry vertical.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks forming the ash chamber and Appendix, which is necessary for warming the lower part of the furnace. Such a design is significantly superior to the efficiency of classic ovens with an ash chamber, along the area equal to the fuel.

I wrapped the doors before installing the asbestos cord and stuck with a painted scotch. In the existing holes inserted a knitted wire, twisted it. The cook in the process of masonry bricks placed the long ends of the twisted wire between the rows, which guaranteed a reliable installation of the door.

In the fourth row, the slab was overlap, the doors were finally fastened and blocked the part of Apandix. Here they laid a grate cast-iron grille, rectangular cutting cuts into bricks under it. The grille (size 20 x 30 cm) was free, with a gap of about 2 cm, necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

So that the overlap was strong enough, the bricks are set under the wedge. Metal corners during the arrangement of the overlap did not use.

Between the fourth and the fifth nearby, and then every two rows, the cook advised to lay the reinforcing steel grid.

Next, the master laid out the furnace using yellow chamotte bricks for its walls. The overlap and the fuel door was shut-off according to the principle described above. Detailed masonry process is visible in the photo. Also in the furnace chammed bricks with triangular propuls were installed. These holes are necessary for feeding secondary air, without the presence of which it is impossible to hovering wood gases.

When laying gas (flue) channels, as well as an asbestos cardboard with a chamotte core and the external walls of the furnace. Pay attention to the overlap of the chamotte kernel. Bricks are circumferent and installed "on the edge".

Also in the photo are visible protrusions from red bricks, which will be laid iron bricks. And on top there will be chimneys. In order to be clearer, I drew a chamotte kernel scheme indicating the position of cast iron bricks and some other furnace elements. On the right side of the furnace will be installed a fireplace portal facing a steam room. And the doors of cleaning and fuel loading go to the pre-banker. Thus, the room will never penetrate the smoke and carbon monoxide, and the water can be splashing on the hot stones - "Put a couple".

Bath stove. Frame of transitional valve

Bath stove. Portal fireplace

After overlapping the chamotte kernel and install the fireplace portal (see photo), the masonry continued unchanged. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which were combined into one by 20-21. Over the distant smoke channel, the overlap was formed, a frame of a valve (bypasic view) was installed between the channels, the hole in which provided the free movement of gases, and over the near smoke channel, the sticker instead of overlapping a chimney ladder. The item was laid in the pre-prepared cuts of bricks and recorded with chamotte clay and two dowels (the holes in the bricks were drilled by a winning drill).

Through two rows, another valve for the pipe was installed. In total, the valves are three - two of them for the chimney and one bypass, installed between the smoke channels (direct stroke).

Lamps three - two on the pipe and one bypass (direct stroke)

The photo shows the transition to a ceramic tube, made in the form of four rows of bricks, each of the series partially hangs over the lower. Over the fourth hanging next to bricks, three more rows are posted - the transition to the smoke tube. In the last series of this transition, a circular shape was visible to which a ceramic chimney will be installed, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

Also on the side machines of the furnace there are brick protrusions necessary for further arrangement of interroom partitions.

The overlap of the furnace was carried out under the ceiling. Metal corners were used to which the final row of bricks was stacked. A sheet asbestos was laid between the ceiling and bricks.

Montage of the smoke itself (I took Ceramic Italian, Effi Domus for Bath) took quite a bit of time. The blocks were simply installed on each other, the fixation was carried out with a sealant and a building clay solution. From above to chimney, a deflector was installed to protect against precipitation.

A bath stove has experienced a few days - they burned several newspapers. Traction is just excellent.

In the future, when I made a clean floor, a steel sheet with a receiver for ash was laid before the furnace. So sweep it easier, and the floor will not light up if the corner will accidentally fall.

The whole brick that remained 🙂

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Video - Installation of ceramic chimney

Floor

We insulated. In the steam room and shower coating, the laminate was laminated in the pre-tribbon. First I will tell about the steam room and shower, there are much more important nuances.

Laying of Cafel

Tile bought with a matte coating and rough to not slid. Decided that the tile is much better than the wooden floor - does not rot, and it is easy. The glue was acquired with the best indicators of moisture resistance.

A waterproofing was laid on the draft floor, making the walls on the walls. Over the waterproofing, the insulation was laid - EPPS (thickness 30 mm). For a better adhesion of Epps with waterproofing used mounting glue.

On top of the insulation was filled with a screed for beacons with a bias toward the drain funnel. A reinforcing mesh and a set of beacons were laid before the fill. In the photo it can be seen that the lighthouses we were attached not to the floor, but on the asbestos solution - the bugs were laid out and the profiles were pressed into them. The solution (cement with sand) interfered with concrete mixer in bribes, because It was important to pour the entire floor in one day. The solution was laid out from the bucket to the grid between the beacons and smash the wooden plank - the rule. Finally, the floor was aligned with a wide spatula and grout.

The tile was laid from the drain gutter to be more convenient to follow the bias. Previously, each washed out in water. The glue was applied to the toothed spatula on the dried and primed tie. In this case, the whole surface of the floor was lubricated with glue, but only space under laying 1-2 tiles. The glue quickly solidifies and cannot be covered with them at once a large floor area. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. Surplus glue around laid items I collected a simple narrow spatula.

At first, all rows of whole tiles were laid out, then the parts along the walls. Cut the tile with manual stovetur. By the way, for the accuracy of the masonry, we pulled the fishing line and used crossbars for seams. And for the best contact of the surface of the tile with the bonding composition, I immediately after laying a slightly climbed each square of the tile of rubber Cyans.

Laminate

They laid very quickly. The floor was stuck on top of the insulation of the film, knocked out the moisture-resistant fane, rolled the substrate.

Unpacked the packaging with a knife. He took out the first panel and laid it, pulling a small protrusion to the wall. Between the wall and the skid inserted 2 plastic clins. He took the second bar, snapped her in the end groove first. Aligned, put the wedges again. When it reached the opposite wall, the disk saw cut off an extra piece of the laminate panel. From the segment and began the next row. The second row was collected similarly to the first one, after which the entire floor was raised at an angle of 45 degrees and gently joined the first row with the latch, and then hesitated his inquiry through the bar. The last row had to be cut along, accurately extincting the cut line.

Walls

Walls, as can be seen in the photo report, sewn with clapboard or laid out with a tile. About everything in order.

Laying of Cafel

Walls on top of the insulation we were crushed by moisture-resistant GVL. Self-tapping screws took for attachment. They were screwed up with a step of 25 cm and retreating a bit from the edge. The sheets were cut so that the joints occurred on the beams of the frame.

In the steam room it was decided to make plinth from the tile, therefore it was necessary to purchase two sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, cut them carefully on the strips and fasten the wall perimeter. By the way, the plasterboard was attached already on the fixed foil (vaporizolation).

In the shower, the first row was stacked from the floor tile. It was necessary to cut it a bit so that the top row of the tile on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

He put glue with a spatula on the wall, applied and clutched the tile of Cyan. Between the adjacent tiles inserted cross, so that the seams were the same. Plane and horizontal tested by a long water level. The second and subsequent rows laid already from the tile of another color.

Some tiles accounted for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. I made a markup with a pencil, check the accuracy of the position of the hole, after which the drill was in the case. At first he drove the hole with a speck-shaped drill. So that the tile is not split, glued a piece of painting scotch. After the central hole was ready, I changed the nozzle into a circular one. I immediately acquired a crown with carbido-tungsten spraying for these purposes. Pretty expensive, but it was enough for the entire finish process.

Excess glue immediately in the process of masonry cleaned with a cloth, while the composition does not dry. Seams under the grip turned out to be smooth and neat.

A day after the decoration of the walls, the cafeter took up seams. To begin with, pulled all the cross. Grouting took two colors - white and dark brown. For the bath picked up a two-component epoxy composition. It is not the cheapest, but perfect for wet premises. I mixed up the components in one bucket, did not add water.

Before applying epoxy grout, I saved the wall from the sprayer slightly. Mass recruited on the spatula, after which it distributed on the seam, making the movement from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula kept at an angle of about 30 degrees. Aligned the grout after about 30 minutes after it is applied using a rubber spatula. Well, in conclusion, when the seams dried, washed the wall with water with soap.

Lining - mounting

The walls in the steaming GVL did not cite. They pulled fooled vaporizolation, secured it with a stapler and scotch. By the way, I spoke well and the junction of the ventilation tube with foil. On top of the foil gently stuck the rails - the crate.

I want to draw readers' attention to the horizontal position of wooden planks. I specifically placed it so as to avoid the capillary lifting of moisture on a wooden wall and achieve good air circulation necessary for drying material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant if the lining was restored from constant dampness or she rotted through a couple of years. Still, we build from the soul and for a long time. I also want to say that the horizontal mount allows you to repair or change individual planks, and if the lining will be located on the walls vertically, it will have to disassemble half the wall.

At first, I just wanted to jerk the boards with nails, but then the choice fell again on the kleimers. They are not visible under the clapboard, and nails can rust from high humidity, there will remain black leaks on the walls.

All the planks I processed the impregnation of "neomide" so that the wood does not rot. And for fastening the first and last plank, finished carnations with copper coating.

Installation started from the ceiling. He retreated 3 cm, put the bar, nail into the center. Another nail drove on both sides of the board, after which I checked the horizontal level. I collected the lining so that the spike was from above, and the groove is from below. This is important, because if you see the wall differently, moisture will accumulate in the grooves, the wood will swell and will lead it.

Bottom in the groove of the first board was inserted into klammers, each of them nailed three nails to the crate. Inserted the second tramp panel with a spike in the groove. Slightly closed the hammer from the bottom up so that the gaps are not left, after which the kleimers inserted and nailed them. So collected to the floor. The last lower bar was revealed along so that a 2 cm is left between the floor and wood. Inserted the board in the spike of the penultimate board, nailed. Along the way, I drove the openings for wiring and often checked horizontal. All nails of the first and last panels I closed with a wooden plinth, and in the corners I installed vertical strips for beauty.

Shelves in a steam room

About how to make a ceiling, Paul and Wall, I told, the furnace is ready, it remains to make the shelves in the bath. To work, I took the lime boards and pine bars. Drew a scheme, prepared a screwdriver, long self-tapping screws, metal fasteners, hammer and nails.

At first I stood the bars, cut them with a grinder. The ends of the horizontal bars that will be connected to the front vertical racks, I shy on the principle of "spike-groove". That is, on horizontal bars made a "spike", and on the vertical racks "PAZ".

The first to the wall screwed the support racks. I want to note that these supports should not be contacted with the floor, it is necessary to leave a gap to two centimeters. I was attributed to the support racks. Just took the fastener and nominated it under the horizontal bars at the place of their compounds with support racks. Thus, brushed, on which boards and bars will be lying for sustainability.

Similarly, assembled the frame for the lower bench and a small table for brooms, after which the boards were mounted on the frame and fixed them with self-draws. Speaking sharp edges for convenience cut off, pretty flooded boards and frames so as not to plant the city.

Interior doors

According to its principle, it is similar to the installation of the entrance door. In the steam room, the door is glass, in the pre-banker wooden. The box in both cases from the tree, ordered based on the size of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. The compounds were washed at an angle of 90 degrees. First, the side planks and the top, using nails, were fixed. After that, inserted plastic wedges between the elements of the box and a few struts, blew the mounting foam. When she dried a little, carefully cloves nailed the side planks of the door frame, which closed the gap and a layer of foam.

The process itself did not photograph, so I apply the picture-scheme for clarity.

The loops were included, they attached them to the box and the canvas. At this stage of work, it is important to check all the distance to the roulette so that the door hung smoothly. Next, it remains only to hang the door on the loop and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we hang on the wall hanging a bucket for pouring, there is an urinal, a shower and a mixer with the islar. The sewage of the sewer and pipes of hot / cold water was made at the stage of laying the foundation and the structures of the walls. Now it will be directly about the installation of plumbing.

Shower, urinal.

Let's start with urinal. My son and I chose a wall compact model with a crane instead of a drain tank, brought it, unpacked, put it on the wall to make marking. Pissar has mounting holes, they are their location, as well as the contour we celebrated on the wall with a marker after they checked, is it exactly attached product to the wall.

Holes for dowels were drilled on the markup.

Siphon in an urinal is a solid, we were followed by the release of sewage pipe, after which the pipe and siphon were connected with a special nozzle. The end of the nozzle, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, wrapped the flax thread and missed the Surik.

The crane at the urinal is mounted very simple. The item is joined with an urinal through a rubber gasket. The height of the crane is regulated by the rotation of the parts. A connection to the water supply pipe is carried out with a nut. After connecting the urinal to the supply of water and sewage, I wicked the joint between the faience and the wall of the plumbing sealant and checked the performance of the entire system.

A little about the tidy bucket. This is a wonderful device that rotates, if you pull behind the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket does not allow him to quarrel. The bucket frame is fixed by dowels, and water supply is carried out on a flexible hose.

Installed according to one principle. The packaging already has everything you need, you will need only the adjustable key and the "Unipac" tape or the "moment" of Plumbing. From the box, I took out the eccentric, screwed them into hot / cold water pipes, after which I took the level and adjusted them horizontally, while simultaneously bringing the distance between them to 150 mm (just turning each eccentric in turn).

The next step was already the installation of the product itself. On the eccentrics screwed the thread, rubber gaskets were put on, then I put the mixer and screwed the cape nuts on the eccentric.

I share another video that I watched before installing the mixers.

Ground Siding

To make the bath look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to close the foundation columns of the base siding panels. To secure it, metal strips are required to create a crate. Even a plasterboard profile is suitable. I want to note that at first I poured the breakfast and made a boardwalk flooring from the facade, but only then fastened the crate and panels. Otherwise, it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

For fastening the crate (the lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the scene and flooring) used the screws and corners (simply cut the pieces of the plasterboard profile so that there were corners). With a screwdriver, the whole design is assembled in a matter of hours, the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical ribs of stiffness and fasten the horizontal profiles by the level (for convenience it used the level and pulled the landmark).

The panels I fucked with self-drawing, screwed them around every half meter. At the corners, the masking elements are fixed in the same way. In the panels, I immediately made square slots and installed the ventilation grids (fastened with self-reversals at the corners) - for each side of the bathhouse 2 lattices.

Otzhetka

I poured between the foundation of the bath and fence. Immediately laid the drainage chute with grille. The procedure is as follows:

Before the entrance door, we have flooring from the board. Just on three parallel bars, the boards were blocked, crowded the edges with hacksaw and beds at the entrance door.

Fitting from larch. Cocol - plastic panels "under the stone".

Latest strokes

So that the bath acquired a finished look, the porch we equipped the canopy and a homemade staircase. The height of the step at the stairs is 18 cm, the details collected on fastening corners and screws.

From the wicket to the entrance I did, near the bath managed to collect a box for compost and a decent woodcut. Inside the bath we brought the furniture, the shelves, curtains were waving there, the brooms hung. In the future, I plan to equip near the bathhouse and build a street barbecue.

When there is not enough money, but there is an irresistible desire to have your own steam room, then the independent installation of a skeleton bath is a great solution. The quality and design of such a design is practically no different from classic wood structures, stone or bricks. Due to the presence of some advantages, this design becomes the cause of an increase in demand for frame-panel products. Probably, any owner of his own home wants to build a practical and high-quality bath as quickly as possible with small cash investments, which for many years will fulfill its purpose. The following is a photo report on the construction of a frame bath.

1. The advantages of the skeleton bath.

2. Details requiring special attention.

3. Erect the frame bath with your own hands:

3.1. Lay the base.

3.2. We erect the wall.

3.3. Mount the roof.

3.4. We perform internal and exterior decoration.

The advantages of a frame bath

A chopped tree from time immemorial used to build a bath. Today, this traditional way has lost the relevance, because completely different technology came to his shift: the construction of frame baths with their own hands with a number of benefits. Denote them:

• maximum erection rate;
• minimum cash investment and further maintenance;
• the ability to install in any season;
• there is no shrinkage of the foundation;
• excellent disguise of electric consists, cables and pipes;
• all kinds of internal, external design.

Details requiring special attention

First, when the frame-shield bath is erected, you should choose high-quality wood. It is necessary to ensure that the boards should be dried. We use such types of wood that have low thermal conductivity: aspen, larch, linden and others. When operating the board from this wood is not subject to deformation.

Secondly, when installing the frame-shield bath, it is necessary to take care of high-quality vapor barrier, because the presence of condensate is a significant drawback of frame construction: moisture from rain, snowfall penetrates inside the design. Therefore, you need to worry about the arrangement of vaporizolation. As an insulating material, waterproofing films are used or parchment, mounted between the outer skin and insulation. It is not recommended to use runneroid, because with increasing temperature it makes an unpleasant fragrance.

Thirdly, it is impossible to build such a design without arranging thermal insulation. High-quality thermal insulation is a guarantee of providing a normal air exchange indoor, as well as its sealing. Minvatu or fiberglass are used as the main material. They effectively cope with their responsibilities, because they have excellent performance.

Construction of frame bath with your own hands

It is necessary to carefully work out the plan of the future building, because half of the success depends on it. After determining the place for the construction, analyze the soil, mark the location of the furnace, chimney, the ventilation system, select the material, which will be used to arrange the roof.

Lay the foundation

Due to the fact that the weight of such a design is relatively small, its base is performed simply. It is economically advisable to produce a column foundation, based on asbestos pipes, filled with cement mortar.

Direct production of base:

• it is necessary to purchase asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 mm2, 40 m long;
• drilling of wells and a depth of 1.5 m, with a diameter of 200 mm2;
• pipes are cut in half;
• sand covered in the well;
• cement mortar is prepared;
• the resulting mixture is poured into the pipes.

The strapping is the first stage of the Bani. To perform it, you need 50x 100 mm boards. They must be previously treated with an antiseptic to avoid rotting. Then the marking of the walls is performed, after which they are styled. The boards are laid out the outside and with nails are fastened. Applying supports, a baseband is carried out. Wooden boards are used for the upper and lower strapping, while the latter is removed before the roofing unit.

The horizontal of the stacking is controlled by the construction level. If any irregularities are manifested, they can be corrected using roofing. Intermediate racks are set taking into account the arranging and installation of thermal insulation.

In order for the design to be stronger, lags and strapping are fastening with metal plates closed into the base. Such a binding should be processed by a special solution that prevents the decoration of the structure.

We erect the wall

In the process of the construction of the walls, the distance between their axes is paid to the distance between their axes. If the arrangement of the opening and docking with other walls is not provided, then this distance is approximately 0.6 m. If any, this size increases by 0.4 m. The interval between racks depends on the size of the doors and windows.

The assembly begins with the formation of angle, after which the wall is mounted, which after will contact with the strapping. The walls are checked for vertical, connected using special slopes. After at right angles, other frames are installed. The straps are fastened by boards, and to the very trim, it is embarked after the end of the arrangement of the frame of the bathhouse.

In places of attachment of walls and frames, and also at the joints it is advisable to build an extra rack. After final fastening of all design elements, the frame must be checked on rectangles.

Mount the roof

A rafter design is collected on Earth, after which it rises to the roof and is located over its resistant. For the safe execution of work on the overlap, thick boards are laid. The roof should be ventilated. The lamp is mounted directly on the bars, and the waterproofing film is stacked between the rafters and the counterbill. On the roofing works are widely used ondulin. The frontones of the designs are closed with sheets, after which they start finishing the bath.

Perform an internal and exterior trim

After the skeleton bath is built, it is necessary to start finishing work. Do not stain, as the paints and varnish products are distinguished by harmful substances. The rough ceiling is manufactured using OSB -plates, which is low on the ceiling beam. Inside the room, all the walls are covered with a pergamin, and in the steam room - foil. Ceiling can be lowered at a height of 2.2 m, which makes it possible to cover it with linden and perform insulation.

The skeleton bath outside siding, tiles, pine or spruce boards, block house. Under the trim, waterproofing is mounted, and emptiness is filled with thermal insulation materials. After performing all the facing works, the skeleton bath is plastered outside.

So, the skeleton bath, erected independently, is ready for operation. If all the rules and recommendations were respected correctly, the bath will be durable, cozy, warm.

Photo report:

Not everyone has a desire and the ability to invest a lot of money in the construction of a bath. And for the most part of our country, it is sometimes necessary to warm up, just necessary. The only way out is to build a bathhouse inexpensively, with your own hands. There is a sufficient number of building materials and technologies that can be called budget.

If we talk about the erection of full, though small, but separate baths, then the budget technologies are considered frame and monolithic. Cheap baths are more often on a wooden frame, we are plywood, osp, boards - who has something. Inside, a heater is laid between two trimbs.

One of the framework options - with a plaster

When monolithic construction, the arbolit is the most popular to build a mixture of cement with sawdust. Sawdust can be generally a gift or cost very little. The cement in the arbolit requires little, so this type of construction in the pocket is unlikely to hit greatly. A removable formwork is installed around the perimeter, the mixture is loaded into it, tram. The next game is mixed. That's so simple. The disadvantage of this material is to be combustible, but the wooden and skew baths are also combustible. So this is not an argument.

Opolk concrete or arbolit - warm, natural material, which consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water

The polystyrene polybetone is most expensive (granulated foam in a mixture with cement and water), but not everyone likes the use of "chemistry" - foam - when building a bath. However, this material itself allows you to get cheap and easy building, which, with the right finish, will only please the owners.

All three technologies give a combination of low prices and good heat engineering characteristics, that is, for heating such buildings, some fuel needed, which in the baths - the main performance indicator.

There are regions in which the forest is still the cheapest material. They may be cheaper than all will put a chopped bath. From the roundabout or from the bar is already at will. Plus this solution is a natural material (although it should be soaked in chemistry to preserve the appearance and protect against disease and insects). But the chopped baths have their own minuses - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the construction of the walls and installation of the roof. We must wait until the main shrinkage goes and only then begin insulation and finishing work. The second minus - it is necessary to regularly update the protective coating, otherwise the construction will become gray and unsightly. But the wooden baths themselves are very good with a special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive technology of the construction of walls is not all. Sometimes the construction of the foundation is almost half of the funds required for the construction of the building as a whole. The technology listed above is good because they can do lightweight foundations. Somewhere quite columnar, somewhere pile or pile-screened. Any of the above walls can well coexist with them, leveling their disadvantages (the possible uneven shrinkage of different points of support).

The foundations listed above can be implemented not on all soils. Sometimes there may be a ribbon foundation of small or normal downstream, and a monolithic plate may need to be needed on particularly bunched or unstable soils. On such grounds, it is possible to add more construction blocks on the above technologies of the walls - foam concrete, slagoblock, ceramzite concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (mainly a thorough protection against high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although the foundations are already required more solid.

Compact or temporary

If you want to build a mini-bath at the cottage, a cabinet is completely small, then you need to look at the construction technology or. If there is a desire, even the usual construction trailer, barn or cabins can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to inspire and put the right oven. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap skeleton bath stages - photo report

The initial data are as follows: the bath is not more than 4 * 5 meters, a small budget - no more than $ 200-300 per month. From the source data - clay pumped ground, 4 meters from the fence - a break. Without all this, it was decided to build a skeleton bath on a column foundation.

The bath itself turned out 5 * 3 m, plus along the long side of the terrace of 1 meter width. Under the pool of the poles, it was decided to make 34 cm from asbestos-cement pipes in diameter, under the terrace of 15 cm. In the center of the plan, another 4 additional pillar was marked - this is a foundation for a brick furnace.

Crave below the drainage depth - for a given region 140 cm. Pipes, by the way, cut more by 20 cm - the total length is 160 cm so that 20 cm the bath was above the ground.

Inside each pillar, a frame of 12 mm reinforcement is installed in diameter. 4 rods are connected, release from the pillar - by 10-15 cm so that you can quietly welcome the strapping.

Concrete was ordered ready, Mark M250. On the perimeter between the colums, the formwork was put up and the boot was immediately poured, which will close the gap between the floor of the bath and the ground.

After a week, concrete scored quite strength, continued work. From the corner of 70 * 70 mm with a wall thickness of 6 mm, the blockage was welded (the corner was in the economy). To tie pillars and metal, weld the reinforcement of reinforcement to the corner shelves.

Immediately I must say that this foundation is excessive on the bearing ability. You can build a two-story heavy building, and not a light one-storey skeleton. But, since they did "for themselves", and there is also a clay breakdown nearby, it was decided to reinstate.

In the washing and rest room, it was decided to make warm floors - sometimes you just need to wash, without a guy, and it is much more pleasant to do it on the warm floor.

Therefore, the insulation (polystyrene foam) is laid on the draft floor, the waterproofing, the reinforcing grid, the pipes are tied to it and all this household is filled with concrete. Under the furnace, naturally, the warm floor was not poured.

A week later, when concrete scored enough strength (not sheltered, but regularly irrigated), work began on the construction of a carcass. For the racks used the ram 150 * 150 mm, the struts - a board 50 * 150 mm (again a solid stock for strength, but this is from the desire to build a good bath).

A bath was built mostly alone, therefore a sequential installation method was selected - the racks are installed first at the corners, then - in those places where the door window will be installed or adjust the simpleness. If as a result of somewhere there are more spaces than 1 meter, additional racks are put. But in this case, since all the racks were made of a very powerful timber, the intermediates were not put, and the stiffness of the design was given by hide.

Next, so that when flooring the floor, it is not drowned, started making the roof of the bath. It is made the fastest - single-sided, with a minimum lift - 15 °. To ensure this slope, the rack for racks was made in advance of different lengths.

On one level, the board of the upper strapping is nailed, the ceiling beams are attached to it. The same racks are attached rafters with the required slope. From above, a solid doomle under roofing material is stuffed.

Single Single Roof System is very easy to manufacture

After the roof is ready, the walls were shed, and then the floor was used on the rest of the bath.

The next step is the masonry of the furnace. This business is long - left a whole month. The furnace is composed with a closed heater. In the formation zone of the chimney, a cast-iron box is built into which stones are stacked. The door leads the door, which goes to the steam room.

Also in the furnace there is a built-in register, which warms the water for a warm floor (exits on the side of the furnace). It is not always necessary to warm the floor, therefore there are two modes of operation - summer without heating of the floor, and winter, with the "inclusion" of the register heating. Translation from one mode to another - with the assignment.

Then follow the finishing works, and they will be different in various cases. The only thing that will be more general is insulation. With the insulation of the walls and the ceiling used mineral wool. The thickness of the layer on the walls in the "cold rooms" is 100 mm, in the steam room and the ceiling - 150 mm. The steamer over the insulation is still covered with a foil on kraft paper.

After insulation, vaporizolation is attached. In the living room, the walls are covered with an OSP, a plug is pasted on top. In the shower on the osp, the tile is pasted, the "dry" part is crumpled by clapboard (horizontally).

Washing - dry zone and shower

In the steam room, first the lamp under the trunk trim, then wide lining. The steamer turned out quite small, also the stove takes a lot of space. Two are placed with comfort, three is already more complicated, but it is also quite convenient. To regulate the number of! Sexual places in the steam room, the shelves made the retractable.

The whole construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly "in one hands." The assistants were only at the stage of fillings of the foundation, and then at the stage of installation of the frame - to set the racks (should stand 100% vertically).

Video example of construction Baths from monolithic arbolit

Inexpensive bath 3 * 6 do it yourself - step-by-step photos

The log for the future bath is harvested and the skyrin in advance, covered from the rains it was dried about 5 months. The structure will consist of two halves: the steam room and the car wash is composed of a log, and a rest room on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3 * 3 m. Construction began with markup: in terms of 6 * 3.

Sandy soil, therefore we make a small breed. ROOM trench depth of 60 cm, exhibit a formwork. The ribbon width is taken with a good stock - 35 cm.

We make the doors - from the frame, on which, on the one hand, OSP is packed, on the other - the lining. About how to make

In this form, we leave to winter - the log house should "sit down". In the spring, we warm the framework of the construction, we are tightening the insulation of a vaporizolation membrane.

We proceed to the ceiling finish. It was decided to make the bidder of the ceiling - to fill short boards between the rafters. You can buy them quite inexpensively. We proceed, cut the desired length. Rock up the supporting bars, which are cut into the size of the board below.

Outside, Yuan was sidding - and a frame side, and a log house. It turned out far from perfect. And between siding and wall there is a ventzor, so there is no problems with the elimination of moisture.

Budget Bath with your own hands - one more inexpensive solution - siding

We started the trimming of interior. Put the crate, on it lining.

Inside the rest room was chosen by clapboard

Go to the finish of the steam. At first, overtook all the foil. The room itself will consist of a zone of the steam room separated by a glass door, and the "washing" zone. In the washing wall, we share moisture-resistant plasterboard, which then glue the tile, and in the steam room.

Zone Parling We are wearing lining and

In the wall cut out the opening of the furnace. It will be treated from the rest room, and the "body" will be in the steam room. Under the furnace put the brick base, install it. Fuel removal we look with chamoten brick.

Separate a tile washing.

According to the main works, everything remained decor and all sorts of things - buckets, buckets, thermometers and the rest of the "filling.

Today the bath is increasingly gaining popularity among people rushing into a cycle of modern life.

The useful properties of bath procedures to the human body have long been proven by science, so many owners of household plots seek to build this construction in their yard.

In this article, you are offered to your attention with which you will read with modern approaches used in construction for these premises.

For a visual conviction, it is enough to look at the selection of photos, which contain ready-made solutions for the construction of the entire carcass and the interior decoration.

Types of banners

Any construction begins with a project that will allow this facility that the final form will have this structure, and how much the necessary materials need you for this.

In addition, the development of the project includes such parameters as the choice of space for construction, dimensions, as well as information about the decor and design used.

The most common types of bath projects is:

• Construction of a structure 3 * 3 m, consisting of a standard set of premises - pre-bankers and steam room;
• The construction of a structure 3 * 5 m, here to the standard set of premises is added a lounge with a small kitchen;

• Plan with dimensions 4 * 4 m, implies the presence to the above-described type of the extension of the terrace;
• The project of the bath with dimensions 5 * 4 includes the entire complex of premises of the modern pair, where there can be a separate toilet, a games room, as well as a salt room.

Mostly a project selection depends on the available place in the household plot and financial capabilities.

Foundation for Bath

Often, in the construction of this building, one of the three main types of foundation is used. It may be a ribbon, columnar or pile foundation.

Ribbon. It is the most common type of foundation for the construction of most structures including a bath.

The advantage of this foundation is that it is able to withstand heavy loads, therefore, if your future structure will have relatively impressive sizes from the brick, then this option of foundation is ideal for construction.

Columnar. It has distinctive features associated with a simple device of this foundation and small financial investments, mainly applied to relatively light facilities from the bar.

It is raised exclusively in places of the occurrence of large loads, which mainly occur at the corners of the building and the places of crossing the bearing structures.

Pile. This type of foundation is necessary for those who are forced to build their bathhouse on the "moving" soil.

This is a reliable view of a rather labor-intensive construction process, and is justified in those regions in which this type of soil is dominated.

Errors allowed when building a bath

Despite the presence of a developed project and the severity of attitudes towards this case, there are still errors that are peculiar to a person during the construction of their own hands.

It is necessary to pay attention to the following points during construction.

Competent planning of interior sizes is necessary. The bath, designed for 2-3 people, should not be less than 10m2;

An acceptable ceiling height for such a structure is the height of 2-2.5 m. In case of deviation from this figure to a smaller side, visitors will feel discomfort, and if in a majority, the coolant is overrunning;

Materials used to build a bath in the country or the household plot, it is recommended to choose from the number of lungs and energy saving.

Particular attention should be paid to the main bath equipment. It not only should look beautifully, but also to answer all safety standards for such structures.

Stock Foto Baths on the country

From a long time, the bath was a place where you can relax and relax. These ancient buildings are in popularity by even vacation in nature.

How to build a bath yourself?

Construction of a bath with your own hands The case is difficult and for its implementation will require a certain luggage of knowledge that you will soon find out.

To build a bath with your own hands, you will need to get acquainted with the action plan:

• Design a bath;
• Understand the stages of construction;
• Acquire a building material;
• Connect communications;
• To equip a bath from the inside.

After familiarization with the stages of the building, it is necessary to determine the place where the bath will be located, since it also depends on the location.

The best option will be if:

• the bath will be on the hill, it will significantly simplify the installation of water drain;
• next to the bath will be a river or water;
• the window in the bath will be located opposite the house, which will allow you to observe it.

For a garden house, the distance will be no more than 3 meters, but for such buildings as a bath, this distance should not exceed 1 meter.

The design and drawings of the bath are best to order from local designers, it will cost about 5,000 rubles. You can also search for ready-made sketches and photos of the baths on the Internet, which are most suitable for your preferences.

Brick Bath, Stone or Blocks

As materials for a brick bath, you can use directly brick, stone or blocks.

For the construction of the bath, it is necessary to dug a pit and fall asleep 20 cm of sand, then it must be poured with water to seal.

The second step will be the laying of rubble on top of the sand with a thickness of 10 cm, which after you need to cover with sand again.

The last step will be the installation of a system for drainage and drainage construction.

Bath of bar

The first layer for the base of the bath will be the sand of the sand in 20 cm, crushed stone is applied by the second layer, and the concrete fill is stacked by a third layer. The key stage will be the reinforcement of the construction.

In the layers you need to insert rods made of metal for a stronger construction and as an additional stability in the middle you need to lay metal plates that bind with wire.

Note!

The next stage of work is a break, which is needed so that the foundation of the bath is not washed with water.

It is best to make a piece of clay, it is much stronger than concrete, and also does not forms cold seams in the process. Over the scene must be pouring a layer of rubble.

Next you need to set the drain in the bath. At first, you need to pull out the pit and bring her chute to the edge of the building of the building, the walls of the pits are covered with wooden boards with a reinforced wire, and then pour all concrete.

Frame bath

The foundation for such a structure of the bath is made on simplified technology, which is the advantage of a frame bath. It is necessary to make a foundation from asbestos-cement pillars, which after installation are poured with a concrete mixture.

The next step is the markup of the walls. Then you need to start connecting the boards using nails. From the board is going to the upper and lower strapping. Walls for such a bath are manufactured in a lattice structure.

Note!

Materials that are needed for walls is, bars, insulation, and materials for the outside, for example OSB plates or a house unit, and inside you can use the clapboard.

Materials for insulation and vaporizolation

Warming the bath from the outside only with the condition of heating in the construction.

For a wooden bath, you need to make a grid that will be inserted into the insulation. In the paper I need a mineral wool width of the layer of which will be 50 mm.

Paul in bath

In the case of a frame bath, when the floors remains to be insulated, and the installation of floorboats remains, in addition to this, you need to install lags, rough floors, and secure the design for steam removal, then lay the insulation and check the waterproofing.

It is best to make the floor of the concrete, as this will allow the bath to dry faster, and it will last much longer. On the concrete floor laid shields made of wood. They can later be taken out for drying and calmly leave for their affairs.

Note!

Photo of baths do it yourself