Rules for laying tiles and ceramic tiles in the bathroom: the procedure and stages of work when laying on the floor and on the walls. Do-it-yourself tile laying: step-by-step instructions from surface preparation to grouting Do-it-yourself ceramic tile laying

Ceramic and tile surface finishing is one of the most visually appealing options today. finishing in residential, administrative, commercial or other premises. And in addition to external beauty, this finish has a number of advantages:

moisture resistance;
strength;
and durability.

The tile or ceramic tile has only one drawback, which makes it an inaccessible finishing option for many. This is a high cost, or rather, the high cost of installation, coupled with expensive prices for the material itself. The master tiler will have to pay a tidy sum. And no wonder - the work is painstaking, requiring concentration, certain knowledge and skills, and accuracy. The tiler not only selects the tiles according to the pattern and colors during installation (plus, he calculates the required volume), he also observes the planes, laying them out at the required level.

However, you can save money if you have the right amount of time for self-assembly and strictly follow the laying technology. Also, treat everyone with respect. useful tips that give professionals in this area of finishing.

How to lay tiles with your own hands?

Even if you have never had to do anything like this, the amateur has a good chance of putting tiles on the floor or wall with quality. It is only important to be patient, be careful and consistently follow all the necessary technological steps.

But first you need to get the right tool:

hydro- or laser level, plumb;
square;
perforator with mixer nozzle;
polystyrene foam float for "stretching" the plaster over the surface;
trowel;
aluminum rule;
notched trowel;
tile cutter;
rubber spatula or jointing sponge.

Technology self-laying ceramic and/or tile:

Alignment is a mandatory procedure, because without this, the corner of the cladding can simply be “filled up”. This means that there will be a large gap in the width of the seams, which looks ugly and is bad for the quality of the installation as a whole. The evenness of the corners is checked with a special tool - a square, which is installed exactly in the corner, and its edges should lie tightly along the walls.

Laying tiles on the wall with your own hands

So, the prepared walls, from which the previous finishing layer / layers were removed, must be plastered in order to level them as much as possible.

To do this, the store must purchase the appropriate dry plaster mixture cement based. And knead the composition with water in the proportions indicated on the package. And in order for the solution to turn out to be of high quality, it is worth using a special construction mixer or a special nozzle on the perforator.

The process of plastering vertical surfaces is simple, but requires certain skills:

first, the solution is thrown with a trowel in small portions onto the wall;
then, in a circular motion with a polystyrene foam grater, the solution is stretched over the surface;
it is necessary to constantly monitor the evenness of the wall using a laser, hydro or conventional level.

If the wall is large in area and / or has significant irregularities, then it will be necessary to plaster on aluminum beacons with a T-shaped section, 5 and / or 10 mm in diameter, planted strictly vertically on the mortar layer. In this case, the size of the rib is determined depending on the size of the irregularities. The step will be 1 or 1.5 m.

As soon as the layer with beacons sets, it will be possible to throw a solution between the slats. And remove the excess with a rule thrown between rows of beacons.

How to plaster walls according to the rules? You will learn about all the secrets by watching this video review:

Now you can start tiling the walls:

knead dry glue to the consistency of thick sour cream. Important: you don’t need to do a lot at once, otherwise the glue will cool down, losing its qualities;
apply the adhesive mixture to each tile over the entire back surface with a special notched trowel;
masonry is carried out from the bottom up and its evenness is constantly monitored (in each of the rows);
and it is necessary to observe the same width of the seams using special plastic crosses (they are sold in various sizes).

Of course, in the process of laying you can not do without cutting the tiles. This operation is performed on special equipment- tile cutter.

Detailed instructions for tiling walls are presented in the video review:

Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands

The floor, before laying ceramic tiles on it, will also need to be leveled. Almost by analogy with the walls, but only by the screed method.

With minor unevenness of the floor surface, you only need a self-leveler - ready-made dry mortar. It will need to be closed with water and laid out on the floor. And this screed itself will level the surface.

If the irregularities on the floor are serious, there are noticeable level differences, it will be necessary to level the surface with a screed along the beacons. A solution of cement-sand mixture.

With a concrete floor, everything is simple and clear, but with a wooden one it is more difficult. The fact is that laying tiles on old boards is by no means recommended. It is necessary to lay new ones and at least 2.5 cm thick. In this case, the wooden surface must be cleaned and treated with special impregnations against fungus, water and rot. A waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the tree. Can be taken roll material, and you can use compositions for spreading on the surface. Then a reinforcing mesh is laid, and concrete is poured after it. And you will have to wait until the screed hardens.

In general, it takes at least 4 weeks for concrete to harden (rather than dry). Only special plasticizer additives for solutions can speed up the process.

Once preparatory stages completed, you can start laying tiles. How to lay tiles on the floor? Step by step, of course:

Prepare the tile adhesive by kneading the selected dry mix as written on its package. And you need to do exactly as much as you plan to spend, which is called "at a time."
Apply the required amount of adhesive to the back of the tile and spread over the entire surface with a special notched trowel.
Glue the tiles on the floor, starting laying from the far corner of the room and moving towards the exit.
The evenness of the installation is checked in each row. The width of the seams is also controlled.

Regardless of where it was necessary to lay the tiles yourself - on the floor or on the walls, once the process is completed, you need to perform one more obligatory finishing operation - jointing. That is, fill special composition a certain shade of the resulting seams.

This is done for both practical and decorative purposes. And experts do not recommend saving on the fugue, otherwise the seams will crack.

Fugue the seams with special spatula or special sponge. The mixture is prepared according to the recipe printed on each package. And after the composition dries, its excess is gently washed off the tile with plain water.

A short video instruction for tiling the floor:

How to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Most often, tiles are laid, of course, in bathrooms and bathrooms. The cladding process is not much different from those described above. The main thing is to choose the right plaster and adhesives. And also correctly calculate the required number of actual tiles. So as not to buy later.

There are a few tips for laying the material in this particular room:

edged elements are best placed at the bottom and in the corners;
it is worth using a horizontal starting rail;
the lower edge of the tiles in the initial (lower) row must be installed along this wooden rail;
check the evenness of the "sides" in the rows with a laser level.

It should be remembered that ceramic or tile, even when laid on a properly prepared surface, dries for several days.

The specialist tells about the secrets of laying tiles:

At first glance, it may seem that tiling is an expensive pleasure. But if you calculate all the costs, including the cost of purchasing materials and laying work, it turns out that the price is more than acceptable. Especially when you consider that the lined surfaces are very practical and durable.

Of course, the price of the work itself almost doubles the total cost, because the master is a creative worker. He should pick up the drawing beautifully, lay it out so that there are fewer scraps. The process is complex and rather painstaking, requiring certain skills and experience. Of course, you can try to save money, because it is feasible if you want to work and at the same time learn something new. And in this article we will introduce you to the main technological points.

Preparatory stage

First, remove old finish. Some masters glue the new tile on top of the old one if it is firmly attached to the walls. In order for the new masonry to grab well, notches are made on the old with a chisel. But according to the technology, the old plaster and finish is removed, leaving only a clean concrete base.

When the surface of the walls is uneven, it is leveled with plaster or drywall sheets. On the floors, a screed is made or poured with a self-leveling mixture. It is much easier to work with such smooth surfaces, the consumption of the adhesive mixture is reduced significantly. In addition, the cladding will High Quality- durable, even, without cracks and fallen tiles. You should not hope that the irregularities can be covered with glue, even if it is applied
thick layer.

Cement plaster walls - a detailed video tutorial:

If you are planning to install an electric underfloor heating, then it must be "drowned" in the screed.

In progress plastering works equals not only the base, but also the angles, which must be strictly 90 degrees.

All surfaces must be primed using a special deep penetrating primer.

You should also take care of the waterproofing of the floor, this is especially true for rooms with high humidity. For walls, waterproofing is needed only in case of constant contact with water, for example in the shower.

Before you start laying tiles, it is advisable to measure how it will lie down, what will have to be cut and how these trimmings will look in finished version. If it turns out that there are too many narrow undercuts, then it is better to shift the layout so that they are at a minimum. It is also desirable to expand the borders, decor, choose a combination of tones. You also need to remember that the decor is not cut, and the borders, if necessary, are simply shortened. Ideally, of course, the creation visual scheme for each surface with the intended layout. This question is very important, it is comprehensively disclosed in.

Often the tiles differ from one another in shade and size, which do not match by several mm. This is especially true for domestic producers. It is important to pay attention to this circumstance in order to obtain beautiful masonry- seam to seam. Therefore, before the tiles are sorted into groups with the same size.

Tool selection

To delete old plaster and prepare the surface, no special tools are needed. But laying tiles is possible only if you have a certain set of tools. So let's stock up:

level to constantly monitor the evenness of the surfaces to be coated. They need two - long and short bubble levels. First, we check the evenness of the entire row, the second - two adjacent tiles. Ideally, the presence laser level, but if it is not possible to buy it, then you can use the water level and plumb line. With their help mark horizontal and vertical lines;
a puncher or drill with a special mixer nozzle designed to knead any mixture;
comb to apply the adhesive. The shape and size of its teeth are selected in accordance with the size of the tile. They are indicated in the instructions for each adhesive mixture;
any container, with a volume of 10-20 liters, in which we will knead the glue;
and wedges to get uniform seams. Works great on the result of the application;
special tool for cutting tiles, for example,. In case of his absence, help will come ordinary glass cutter or other cutting tool;
, without which it will be quite problematic to fill the seams with grout.

Articles that you may still need on the topic:

In addition, you need to stock up directly consumables for work - glue and grout with a cement base. Silicone grout is used only when it is necessary to seal expansion joint between bathroom and tiles.

Cooking glue

The easiest thing in the process of laying tiles is the preparation of the adhesive mixture. To do this, you need 1 liter of water, into which the dry mixture is gradually poured, until a small mound forms above its surface. Using a perforator or drill with a nozzle, everything is mixed until a homogeneous mass without clots is obtained. After mixing, it will become clear what else needs to be added - water or a mixture. The finished solution should resemble thick sour cream. It should not be too liquid and run off the spatula, and not too thick so that it is easy to spread on the desired surface.

After kneading, the glue must be allowed to stand, and after 5-10 minutes, mix again.
Try not to prepare too much glue, especially for the first run. It hardens quite quickly, and if you are holding a comb and a tile for the first time, then it is still unknown how the laying process will go, how long it will take and what will happen to the finished glue during this period.

Laying tiles

Each master has his own styling technology. One of the options - on the sdir, we will now consider. Before the tile takes its place on the wall or floor, its wrong side is covered with a slight layer of adhesive mixture, "on the peel" to increase adhesion. Then the tile is covered with a thicker layer, about 1 cm, along which you need to walk with a comb. If the tile is laid on the floor, then it is advisable to walk on the floor with a comb, and not on the tile.

Often, when laying tiles, excess glue comes out. To avoid this, the edges of the tile must be clean. If this nevertheless happened, then it is better to remove the excess glue immediately, because the frozen mass is torn off with great effort.

This method has its advantages - the use of thin glue and the absence of the need to use a rubber mallet.

In order for the tile to be securely fixed, it is simply pressed well to a certain level. The fastening will be sufficiently reliable if the tile is pressed down somewhere at half the height of the strips left by the comb.

After the glue has been applied to the surface, it is necessary to lay the tile within 10-15 minutes, and set its position within 15-20 minutes. To check the evenness, we use the level, if it is higher, then you need to try to drown it, squeezing out excess glue, if, on the contrary, it is failed, then you need to tear it off and add glue. We pay special attention to the corners - they must converge.

wall ceramic tile they begin to lay from below, in even, horizontal rows. The first tile is usually laid from the edge or from the center of the row, it all depends on the layout, so that there is as little waste as possible. floor tiles start laying from the corner farthest from the exit.

With special responsibility, they begin laying in places that are in contact with deformable surfaces. Which can include, for example, cast iron bath, which changes its size depending on the temperature regime.
Visually, of course, you will not see this, but in order to tear the tile from the wall, it will be quite enough. To avoid such a nuisance, it is necessary to organize a gap of at least 2 mm between the bathroom and the tile and fill it with an elastic sealant. Fortunately, it is produced in tone with the main grout, so it will not “cut” the eye much.

The appearance of the lining also depends on the width of the tile joint, the thinner the joint, the more elegant it looks. But such seams are best done only when the masonry is smooth, quality tiles. In order for the gaps to be the same size, we use crosses, 1-10 mm in size.

We cut the tiles

The end result of cutting tiles largely depends on whether you have a tool and how high quality it is.
To get a straight cut line, a manual tile cutter will suffice. In its absence, use any cutting-sharp tool - glass cutter, drill, nail, especially if the tile is soft. An even scratch is made on it to slightly weaken the enamel. After that, the tile must be placed on the edge of the table, evenly press on one half and it will be divided into two parts. To obtain a curved cut or a small piece, a grinder and a diamond disc are used.

External corners deserve special attention. Easiest to get nice corner possible with the help of special plastic corners or layouts that are simply installed between adjacent tiles. Masters do not use them, an exception is made only if there is a threat of slipping and getting injured.

Tilers cut corner tiles at a 45-degree angle so that the joint is perfect. They use the same grinder or tile cutter, but already electric.

The cut is made on the back side of the tile, up to the glaze itself, carefully so that it remains undamaged. To make the tiles easy to join, the corner can be made a little larger. After the corner is set, it is fixed using masking tape to prevent the liquid glue from spreading.

Often in the process of laying a tile with a hole is required certain size. A small diameter can be cut with a tile drill, a large one with a crown or a ballerina mounted on a drill. A hole in the form of a square is made using a grinder.

We overwrite the seams

According to technology, the hardening time of almost all adhesive solutions is from 12 to 24 hours. There are also fast-acting mixtures that need only 4 hours to cure.

We begin the grouting by removing the plastic crosses and cleaning the joints from the remnants of the solution.

The stage of grouting is not particularly difficult. The grout mass is prepared, after which it is applied with a rubber spatula to the inner surface of the seam. The movements are cruciform. After that, you just need to form a seam, remove the excess mixture using an ordinary clean rag. For grouting a large area of cladding, it is better to change the rubber spatula to a rubber grater, the process will speed up.

If the grout is carried out in close proximity to a beautiful embossed decor, then it is better to pre-glue it.

For wet rooms, a special impregnation is used, which will provide the seams with additional protection.

Summing up

You can write about laying tiles with your own hands, methods and technologies for a long time, because how many masters - so many opinions. This article tells only the basics, so if you want to discuss, offer your interesting option styling - we are waiting for you in the comments.

The assortment of construction stores pleases with constantly emerging new products designed to fulfill modern finishes housing. But be that as it may, ceramic tiles do not lose their popularity at all, and remain one of the most popular materials for facing floors and walls in rooms with specific operating conditions - with high humidity, with direct water on the surface, with a pronounced abrasive load. , with the need for frequent wet cleaning using detergents. According to such criteria, this includes bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens, hallways and corridors, balconies and loggias, entrance groups and some business premises.

In a word, in any house or apartment, such a finish will definitely find wide application. Therefore, the question is so relevant - how difficult is laying ceramic tiles with your own hands, is it worth inviting a master, or is it quite possible to do on your own? We cannot agree with the opinion of the authors of individual articles who claim that tiling is a very simple task. Such a finish requires precise adherence to technology, knowledge of many nuances, a certain skill and increased accuracy. However, it does not seem impossible either - so many homeowners have successfully completed Finishing work on one's own. We hope that this article will help the portal visitor to understand the basics of ceramic tile laying technology, to carefully assess their capabilities and make the right decision.

Tiles - durable and practical material. For a long time, tiles have been the most popular material for interior decoration, especially bathrooms and kitchens. The requirements for the finishing material in these conditions are very stringent. Because there are constant temperature fluctuations, high humidity. That is why tile has found its practical application in the repair and decoration of these premises.

What is tile?

The finishing material is a plate of fired ceramics. It is noteworthy that the first samples of ceramic tiles were found in Mesopotamia. In size and shape, it resembled a mosaic, and at that time, 2-3 millennium BC, it was used to decorate temples and palaces.

To date, there are several methods for the production of tiles:

Casting, when the clay mass is poured into molds, and then fired. The method is used extremely rarely, because the tiles are uneven, and its edges are uneven;
Cutting while sawing natural stone on the tile. This is a rather expensive production method and the final product is of high cost;
Extruding or drawing and cutting clay mass using special equipment;
Pressing is the most common modern method manufacturing. Finished goods are durable and look good.

Photo: tiled bathroom

In the modern construction market, the choice of tiles is very diverse. Tiles vary in color, shape and texture. By combining different layouts, even with your own hands you can create beautiful artistic masterpieces.

Advantages of tiles:

Durable and impact resistant;
Ease of surface maintenance
Not damaged by the action of water;
Does not deform over time
Not afraid of exposure to steam or hot fat;
Resistant to chemicals;

How is tile different from ceramic?

The technologies for their manufacture are similar, but the tiles are stronger and better (the price changes accordingly). The fact is that ceramics are simply fired in kilns at high temperatures, and the tile is also covered with glaze.

The tile has a glossy surface

Thus, the tile has the following advantages: more beautiful appearance, glossy surface, high strength and durability, good performance. In addition, tile is an environmentally friendly and environmentally friendly material.

Technology of laying tiles

Laying this tile option is a classic solution for the repair of many rooms. But it requires certain knowledge and consideration of some nuances.

Necessary tools and materials:

Plaster spatula;
Ruler;
Chisel and hammer (for cutting tiles);
Glass cutter (for cutting glazed tiles);
Level;
Weight and spatula;

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is important to clean the surface from dirt and dust. Then level the surface and prime it. It is a mistake to assume that irregularities can be closed by using more solution. A high-quality laying result will be obtained only in the case of a perfectly leveled surface.

Surface leveling cement mortar

Surface priming

If, then it is important to first make a screed. For baths and toilets, waterproofing is of no small importance. It is best to lie down on a concrete base.

Preparation of markings and stops

Before laying, it is performed, as well as stops for the first row. They will be installed. If the tile is placed on the wall, then at the bottom it is necessary to fix wooden lath so that the first row can rest on it.

Checking the level and marking

On the floor, the line of the edge of the tiles of the first row is simply drawn. starts at the far end.

Solid tile installation

The solution is applied to the wall using a special spatula with rectangular teeth.

Applying tile adhesive

First, the tile is leaned against a support, and then carefully placed on the mortar. It is not necessary to press down, it is enough to turn it slightly along the axis to achieve a uniform distribution of the solution.

Mortar tiling

Important! It will be difficult to remove the tiles from the mortar after laying. Therefore, initially it is necessary to try to position it correctly. After laying, it will be possible only to slightly move the tiles to the sides.

It is important to maintain the same distance between the tiles

The correct installation is checked using a level. A hammer can be used to deepen the tiles into the mortar. Place crosses at the corners of the tiles, which can maintain the correct equal gap between the tiles.
Usually, the distance between the tiles is made equal to 0.5 cm.

After the first row is laid, it is necessary to wait a little for the mortar to set. It is important to remember that if a break is made between laying rows, then the solution that is located along the edges of the tile must be removed. Otherwise, it will dry out and the work will be complicated.

Trimming tiles

When all the space that could be used solid tiles, laid out, it is necessary to start cutting and installing the missing fragments. You can cut tiles with glass cutter or tile cutter, in extreme cases, cutting with Bulgarians.

Manual tile cutter

Important!
Marking must be done, taking into account the gaps on all sides.

Seam jointing

After the full laying of the tiles, it is necessary to wait for the mortar to dry completely, and then start jointing the joints. To do this, remove all the crosses from the gaps. Can be used as grout different means: cement, silicone or epoxy based. It is desirable to select the grout according to the color of the corresponding tile.

Grout preparation

Grout application

Important! If the tile is glazed, then grouting can be done immediately after the mortar has dried. If it is matte, then the tile must first be moistened before grouting.

Before starting jointing, the surface must be completely cleaned, and the seams between the tiles must also be cleaned. Vacuuming is ideally recommended. Further using rubber spatula apply grout over the seam and press it deep into. Put the spatula over the seam and run along it, removing excess. The seam should be level with the level of the tile. After the fugue has completely dried, its residues can be easily removed from the surface using an ordinary rag and water.

Installation of decorative profiles

To give the room the best appearance, as well as to protect the corner, decorative profiles are installed. Corner profiles also carry protective function. When installing the corners, first one side of the corner is made the same as the second. Then the end surfaces are aligned along the plane.

Decorative profiles for tiles

A profile is applied to the other side, which is pressed against the tiles of the bottom row. Both edges must be flush with the planes of the tile. There may be a gap between the profile and the tile, but not wider than the width of the joint.

Installation of ebbs

It is especially important where, after tiling the walls, a gap remains between the wall and the bathroom. In such a situation, the ebb will help. The gap between the wall and the bath must be filled to the level of the upper edge. Then apply the mortar and lay the tile.

Installation of ebbs between the bathroom and the tiles on the wall

With knowledge of technology, you can independently lay a tile. But it must be borne in mind that there are different ones that can also be mastered. The main thing is to clearly understand what you want to get in the end.

Laying tiles with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is quite feasible. If you cannot afford to pay the cost of these works, and a beautiful bathroom and kitchen do not leave your dreams, then with the right approach, you can do everything yourself.

If you take into account all our advice, practice, you will definitely get your hands on it, and you will never be interested in the cost of laying tiles. You yourself can transform your room with the help of this practical, durable, beautiful material.

We calculate the required amount of material

So, for this stage you will need: level (plumb), tape measure, paper and pen. Calculations must be done very carefully.

The intended location of the tile, whether it be a wall or floor, is measured horizontally and vertically. According to the result obtained and the estimated size of the tile, the required number of tiles is calculated. Special attention should be paid to the corners. If the corners are crooked, you will additionally need a few incomplete tiles in order to avoid gaps.

Next, you need to sketch out the layout of the tiles and choose the type of cladding. Options laying of tiles protrude: diagonal laying, "butt-to-butt" and laying in a run. At this stage, it is also necessary to determine the presence and necessary quantity decorative elements: friezes, borders, plates with drawings.

In order not to be mistaken in the number of tiles purchased, you can draw up a mini-diagram on paper on an appropriate scale, which will clearly indicate the location of both the tiles themselves and the decor. After that, you can only start buying and laying tiles, the price of which is often quite high. Therefore it should work important rule: "Measure seven times, and cut once!"

Laying tiles on the floor

Tiles fit perfectly flat surface gender. Therefore, if the differences are impressive, you should think about floor screed. Under the tile fit all types of screeds. On top of the gypsum-fiber sheets with a dry screed, the tiles are glued with Fliesenkleber glue. Only fulfillment of all preparatory work proceed directly to laying.

According to the rules for laying tiles on the floor, we first determine the pattern. To do this, lay out two cross rows along the longitudinal and transverse axes. And special plastic crosses inserted between the tiles will help control the thickness of the seam.

Exists different ways laying tiles.

Traditional

Diagonally

Offset (offset)

herringbone

Herringbone with attachment

Modular grid

Depending on what you choose, the first row of tiles is laid. When using the direct (traditional) method in large rooms laying starts from the middle, and in small ones - from the second row.

Using diagonal laying first, the frieze is marked, then whole tiles are laid around the perimeter, then cut tiles, and then the frieze is laid. Having laid the first trial row, be sure to check its plane with the help of a level.

Special attention should be paid to the corners. Since the tiles may not be concave equally, corners may protrude, therefore, in order to avoid uneven floors, the tiles must be set a little below the level. Be sure to ensure that the seams in perpendicular directions match.

With the help of a level and a corner, we lay lighthouse tiles. If the floor is uneven, they are installed at the highest point. Next, a solution or glue is applied to the place where the tile will lie, the tile is placed on top and gently tapped with a rubber mallet. After that, you can fill in the remaining space in rows, periodically monitoring the level of tile laying.

The tile is perfectly attached to the floor with:

cement mortar;
glue;
cement mortar diluted with plasticizers;
bituminous mastic.

Laying tiles on the wall

Laying methods

Laying tiles on the wall can be done in three ways: the traditional "butt-to-butt", in a checkerboard pattern ("ligation") or diagonally.

In the first case, you need to constantly monitor the coincidence of the vertical and horizontal seams, as well as measure the tiles in size.

When using the “overlapping” cladding, the middle of the tile from the top row is located above the junction of the tiles of the bottom row. Laying using this method is greatly simplified, because. no need to constantly monitor the coincidence of the size of the tile.

Diagonal styling can often be seen in large rooms. The method is considered quite time-consuming and complicated, so if you decide to use the services of specialists, the prices for laying tiles may not please you. The main points that you need to pay attention to are the perpendicularity of the seams and the correct adjoining of the tiles to the walls.

Surface preparation

To begin with, possible deviations of the surface from the axes are checked: horizontally for the floor and vertically for the walls. The maximum allowable deviation percentage is 0.2%, i.e. it should not exceed 2 mm per meter of length.

Using a plumb or level, we check the vertical deviation for the walls. At correct installation plumb error will be smaller. It is best to hang the plumb line on nails specially driven into the corners of the room. With a long ruler, the deviation is checked over the entire height and width.

A flat surface is the key to success. Possible gaps immediately become visible if you apply even beam or level. In the presence of large recesses, they must be carefully puttied. Small gaps up to 2 mm can be left unchanged.

Now, by tapping the surface, we check its strength. The presence of a baying sound indicates a fragile fit of the layer. In this case, the surface is cleaned up to brickwork or concrete. During tapping, sand shedding is also possible: such a layer is removed or enhanced using specially designed tools.

The technology of laying tiles on wooden surface involves the use of roofing felt and metal mesh. Reiki, roofing felt are stuffed on the wall, a mesh is attached. From above, it is plastered with a 15 mm layer of mortar, after which the tile is laid after drying.

In the figure: 1 - stuffed bars, 2 - wooden base, 3 - roofing felt or roofing felt, 4 - mesh, 5 - cement plaster, 6 - tiles

Grease stains, dirt, soap solution residues, paint - none of this should be on the prepared surface, otherwise the tile will not stick firmly enough. Painted walls are especially troublesome. Removing paint is a rather laborious process, but with a puncher with a spatula or cutting machine with a card brush, it can be greatly simplified and accelerated. The tile will hold better if the surface is primed.

Laying technology

The technology of laying tiles on the wall involves the preliminary laying of lighthouse tiles. To install the beacons evenly, pull the thread, which lags behind the surface by 5 mm. They are guided by it when installing beacons and leveling the plane. In this case, the parameters of the vertical and horizontal are necessarily monitored. For installation, it is best to use alabaster, because. it instantly hardens, and after laying a row, it is quickly and easily peeled off from the lighthouse tile, which is already installed on a permanent basis.

To clad the wall start from the center of the wall towards the corner. The center of the wall must be marked by drawing a vertical line to the floor with a pencil. From this place, laying begins. If, with a checkerboard pattern in the first row, the central line will pass along the junction of two tiles, then in the second row it will fall on a whole tile.

Now we mark the rows horizontally and carefully lay the tiles, starting from the bottom. If you are sure that the floors are even, then the tiles can be installed directly on them.

If during the laying process you notice that you have deviated from a straight line, you can slightly lift the already laid tile. This is done using wedges that are driven under the tile.

The tile can also be installed on a screwed rail, in the corners of which plumb rails with an attached cord are placed. All this is done in order to evenly lay the tiles both horizontally and vertically. After the tile is laid, all fixtures are removed and the voids are filled with mortar.

Directly laying is carried out as follows: on reverse side tiles using a trowel, apply a solution (cement, glue), distribute it with a comb, press it tightly to the surface, tap it. To do this, use a rubber mallet. The level of the tile should match the level of the previously stretched rope. The entire space between the tile and the wall must be filled with mortar, otherwise adhesion will decrease over time and the tile may fall off. The applied layer of the solution should be from 7 to 15 mm. The remains of the solution that appeared on the seams are removed with a trowel.

We insert special crosses between the tiles, which will allow you to control the thickness of the seam. After the laying process is completed, carefully clean the seams from the remnants of the solution and dust, take out the crosses.

Tile cutting

In some cases, if the size of the room requires it, you need to cut the tiles. For floor use a tile cutter, for wall - roller glass cutter or carbide cutter.

Before cutting, the tiles are marked. Then, along the attached metal ruler with pressure, they are carried out with a cutter, after which they break the tile itself, placing it under wooden block or special tongs.

Grouting

The last step is grouting. Their width for tiles, the size of which is 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 60 cm, should average 3 mm. The surface will look more aesthetically pleasing if colored grout is applied to the seams. But even the usual white grout will give the wall with the laid tiles a neat and finished look.

The grout is applied either with a special scraper, grater, or using a bag with a nozzle resembling a confectionery. After application, the grout is evenly distributed to fill all the seams. Then dry excess is removed with a grater, the seams are treated with a sponge soaked in water.

If the tile is glazed, then grouting can be done immediately after the mortar has dried. If the tile is matte, then it is moistened with a sprayer before grouting.

For grouting use cement mixture or epoxy resin. Unglazed tiles are additionally treated with a sealant. This will prevent the appearance of stains both on the tile itself and in the seams.

A master class on laying tiles (video) is easy to find on the Internet. Are you now wondering how much it costs to lay tiles? We are sure you can do everything yourself!