Fastening of timber among themselves: Methods for connecting materials (photo and video). How to fix the timber to Brus in different ways? Wooden timber attachment methods

During operation in the glued bar, deep cracks are not formed and the whole thickness of the glued bar "works". Therefore, the thermal insulation glued bar significantly exceeds concrete and brick, its thermal conductivity is lower.
The glue layer in the glue bar is good thermal insulators, and the spike connection of the timber generates several sealing circuits and makes it impossible to penetrate cold air inside the room. In addition, the usual ram during drying gives cracks (bursting), these cracks significantly reduce the working thickness of the bar. Of all this it can be seen that the glued bar is much warmer than usual.

It is believed that the main shrinkage occurs 1 ... 2 seasons. An ordinary ram when drying gives a shrinkage about 10%. On the third year, shrinkage can be 0.5 ... 1%. This sharply impairs high-quality construction and thermal insulation of the room. It turns out that during the shrinkage process you can not install windows and doors, otherwise they will be bothering them. And how to dry the bar without installing the windows, doors and heating?

When building a house from a glued timber, shrinkage is only 0.4%. The glued bar gives shrinkage mainly when erecting the wall. One of the most important parameters is wind insulation. The glued bar does not require laying insulation, sealant, palacing, etc. Our profile consisting of small grooves guarantees 100% wind insulation.

How to braar

Frequently built on Russia wooden strong houses. They built what is called, "without a single nail", but good and for centuries. And in our time in width, especially lumpy. The bar is well laid in the ranks and gives a minor shrinkage, and the principle of work "without a single nail" here is more relevant.

What to fasten the bar

Instruction as screydrink Bar

1 nails are narrowed among themselves only parts, not a wall, since the nail holds the design tightly. The connection of the bar in the wall should not be, and there can be no rigid construction. It provides for a certain mobility, because the tree is gaining a tree throughout his life, then gives moisture. In addition, nails with time rust and spoil wood.

2 If you still decide to save time and money and make a bar with nails, at least use special nails without a hat (for example, wire 6-ku) and be sure to fit them. Previously the upper bar is drilled through the usual drill.
Here you need to remember that the miser pays twice: in the bath built on the nails, you will be the case of cautious gaps.

3 Usually a timber is bonded by wooden waders. Vacans are square bars 18x18 mm. The length varies depending on (no more than 25 cm). Special drill Make holes with a diameter of 21 mm and drive into them the waders that should have

smiling in chess. Drill drill on through.

4 Good use for fastening round wooden braided with a diameter of up to 3 cm. The main function of napillates in is to prevent the horizontal displacement of the bar relative to each other. Place peeled over each other so that 3-4 rows can be copp. When installing coppings, consider that the hole under the impudent should be located strictly vertically, there is no smaller diameter and sufficient depth. Wooden brazier is enough and does not crush the wood in the hole.

5 There is another way - with the help of a spring node "force". By its design, it is a screw from the built-in spring compression. Such a system allows you to eliminate the gaps between the details, with a huge force, pressing the bars to each other. The spring assembly "force" is used mainly for balanced shrinkage of the crowns of the structure, prevents deformation and cracks. True, this method is quite expensive.

Advice

Glued bar and its comparison with other materials

Concrete (Monolith)
Reduced humidity in winter. Humidifiers are required. Poor energy saving, warming is required. Requires finishing (external and internal). More expensive foundation. Essentially more than glued bar.

Brick reduced moisture in winter. Humidifiers are required.
Poor energy saving, warming is required. Internal finish required. More expensive foundation. More than glued timber.

Construction and features of houses from glued timber

How to fasten the timber

For the production of glued timber, boards of conifers without defects and flaws are used as a material. The board is processed with soft modes to a relative humidity of 8 ± 2% in the drying chambers. Then the boards are shifted from 4 sides to the exact dimensions, sorted and glued on a powerful hydraulic press. The number of lamellae can be from 2 to 5, it allows the glued timber (synonyms: glued profiled timber, a multi-layered glued bar) strong enough.
In the thickness of the glued bar reaches 200 mm. To glue with each other parts of the glued bar (lamellae), use special adhesives that are not only environmentally friendly, but also high-strength. These adhesives allow you to "breathe" wood. Bonding quality corresponds to international and Russian standards. When gluing (according to the technology of manufacturing glued timber) in a single bar, the direction of wood fibers and annual rings in the lamella is placed in opposite side of each other. This method makes the glued bar stronger than the usual one. The glued timber under the influence of humidity does not change the form (it does not "lead"). One of the main points in the manufacture of glued bar is its profiling on special four-sided machines. With such a technology for manufacturing a glued timber, quality depends on the accuracy of the manufacture of a puzzle compound. The glued bar after giving it a profile is cut into the necessary segments (peeling into size). Then the glued timber is processed on special cup-cutting machines - "kill" the weft cups and the holes under the brazen.

An integrated approach to the management of the production process determines the high quality of products. Through the use of modern computer technologies, all stages of construction from design to the manufacture of a set of home are closely related to each other. The high accuracy of wood processing ensures the use of high-quality equipment, which is best affected by the assembly. The glued timber is made of coniferous wood (including larch and cedar).

The thickness of the glued bar depends on the climatic conditions of the area, where your home will be located. The abruptness of the walls provides a combed joint in the locks by the profile of the glued bar. The company offers the construction of houses both by typical projects for every taste and individual orders. Our designers are ready to design the Customer "Any Caprice", and experienced builders embody it into life.

The main advantages of houses from a wooden bar

Advantages of building houses from glued timber

Glued bar for durability exceeds all other wooden structures. Houses made of glued bar compared to other types of houses have excellent characteristics. Houses made of solid logs with a humidity of at least 30% for drying forms cracks, and the humidity of the glued timber is 8 ... 12%. Therefore, there are no tendens to the appearance of cracks from the glued timber. The construction time of the wooden house from the glued timber is much smaller than the solid tree. All items, including beams and rafters, are made in factory conditions with high accuracy. Thanks to high-precision equipment, on which wood is processed, glued material is characterized by high surface quality. Due to the lack of internal stresses, glued wood saves its parameters over time, it does not bend, not twisted, does not give a shrinkage. The great advantage of the glued timber is the lack of the need for the interior of the cottage. The lack of trim cost significantly reduces the cost of building a house from a glued bar, an average of 50 or more percent.
The house from the glued bar practically does not give a shrinkage. The glued bar is not subject to any viruses, fungi and bacteria due to optimal humidity. In the house of glued timber, air quality is ideal for people prone to allergies, pulmonary and heart disease. In hypertension, people have positive results to reduce blood pressure. Dissolving of hemorrhages is accelerated, the metabolism is normalized, the number of migraine appearances, neuroses is reduced. For houses from glued timber, a deep and heavy foundation is not required, as they are easier for brick and stone houses.

Repairs

Ecology of housing from glued bar

The glued timber is made of wood - natural material. He is warm to the touch, retains comfortable humidity and winter, and in summer.

Ecology is the main advantage of the glued timber relative to concrete, foam blocks, bricks. Many argue that wood "breathes." This is not quite so. Really, the air can not penetrate the streets into the house and from home to the street. Wood regulates room humidity. Wood has antiseptic and antitoxic properties.

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Increasing interest in the wooden house-building in our country, he gave rise to the need to inform the public about the methods and techniques used in the construction of wooden structures. Many are interested in how to mount the timber among themselves, how to mount it to the wall, as well as what the advantages of those or other technologies and materials.

We will try to answer these questions.

The reliability of a wooden house or a bath from a bar depends on how to mount the bar to the bruus.

Brous connections

First of all, it should be said that the traditions of construction from wood around the world are incredibly rich and diverse, which is an obvious consequence of the vast experience accumulated by mankind in this industry of the craft. With the development of wooden construction, a huge number of masters, schools, traditions and methods of processing details appeared, so there is simply an unimaginable diversity of approaches to working with wood.

Moreover, each master contributes its adjustments and improvements, improving and complicating generally accepted methods of conjugation, fasteners and locks. It is impossible to consider all these techniques within the framework of one article, so we will limit ourselves only to the main and relevant methods of fixing details in the construction of wooden walls.

So, articulations are different in the spatial location of parts relative to each other:

Crown. This pairing between the details located in the adjacent layers or the wedges of the wall (from above or below), which prevent log displacements in the horizontal plane, their rotation and movement under the action of the gravity of the upper layers;
Facial longitudinal. Used by increasing the log length within one crown and prevent displacement of parts relative to the longitudinal axis, as well as an increase in the gap between them;
Facial angular artists. Serve for fastening logs when forming corners between the walls. Prevent displacements of logs and walls relative to each other, as well as turns and changes in the degree of the angle installed in the project. Prevent the expansion of the slots between the details in the corners of the building, the occurrence of drafts and the cold bridges;
T-shaped connections. There are in the docking of the inner walls and partitions with the external walls of the box at home or among themselves. Serve for a reliable hard attachment of the inner wall and prevent its displacements and dust;
Various pairing between wooden and stone structureswhich show how to mount the bar to the wall.

Important!
When considering certain methods of fixation, the possibilities of the modern tool and the level of your skill when working with it, as well as the feasibility and complexity of each method.
This is especially important if you intend to work with your own hands.

In each of the listed types of fixation of the wooden parts, there are many ways of fastenings and various techniques for the execution of locks and bowls, so they should be considered more.

Grief compounds

The wintical compound is a fastening between the parts along their longitudinal horizontal plane, which they fall on each other when the walls are erected. This mount must hold the details from displacements along this plane, rotations and drops under the action of gravity and internal stresses arising in the design.

For the implementation of the grief method, such fastening techniques are used:

Using metal pins and nails;
With self-tapping screws;
With the help of a bracket;
Using wooden brazing;
Using plug-in spikes and knaps;
With the help of special milling locks (in the profiled tree).

When using metal fastening means, it should be remembered that in places of wood contact and increased metal corrosion arises, which leads to premature damage of nails or pins, as well as to damage the tree in contact places. This is the easiest, the fastest, cheapest and unreliable way of fastening wooden parts.

Bowl of all used metal pins 6 mm thick or special nails without a hat. The main load will be applied at an angle to the axis of the fastening element, so the presence of a hat is optional, especially since it will interfere with the upper log sitting.

Before mounting the attachment, the log is drilled on the depth, a slightly large depth of the pin or nail. Sometimes the details are drilled through, but these are irrelevant subtleties, the main task is to fix the product in the horizontal plane.

Staples and self-tapping screws can be considered as auxiliary or temporal means of fixing the elements of the wall, as they are short-lived and unreliable. In addition, the brackets spoil the appearance of the design.

Go ahead. Wooden brazening is the most common and tested way. Everything is simple here: instead of a metal pin or nail, we use a wooden peg of a round, multifaceted or square cross section (more often round), which is clogged into a pre-prepared hole in the log, and the next part is planted on the protruding part.

It must be said that the method is quite simple and infertility, but at the same time very reliable, durable and durable. For the manufacture uses of solid rocks: oak, beech, ash.

Important!
The brace must consist of durable wood, having humidity lower than those of the details of the house, as well as perpendicular to the fibers of the timber's own fibers.

If you work yourself and do not have an impressive experience in a carpentry craft, this method can be considered a good compromise between the complexity, the complexity and reliability of the attachment. Especially since it is easy to find and buy in a construction store or get complete with the material.

Also, for the groves, plug-in spikes and keys are used, which are inserted into specially prepared grooves located along the horizontal surfaces of the logs. Today, it is more common to compounds using a spike and a groove, painted in the product at the factory under profiling. It is typical for the glued timber and sets for the construction of houses from a tree, since the presence of such a lock greatly simplifies and speeds up the grazing assembly.

Facial longitudinal nodes

If you do not know how to bore the timber with each other with longitudinal buildings, we present to your attention such a way as a word. Also, this method is called a straight or oblique lock, pairing "in the paw", "in the floor of a tree", etc.

In addition, there are such ways:

Fastening with a longitudinal spike on the knaps;
Fixation with longitudinal indigenous spike;
Combined nodes.

Important!
In the case of straight and oblique locks, the details should be additionally fixed with wooden bellows in the contact places of surfaces.
To do this, in the middle of the castle make two holes and insert pegs in them.

When working with a glued profiled bar, the longitudinal extension is not required, as the parts are selected for a specific project and have the necessary length. Despite the fact that the price of this material is high, a sufficient number of such advantages makes it very popular.

Corner articulations

Corners - the most responsible sections of the design of a wooden house. Therefore, fasteners pay special attention.

There are many ways to implement such a pairing, like an angle:

Robust jack with a straight lock or "in the floor of a tree";
Disappointing with a skew castle or "in paw";
Fastening on a native spike;
Fixation of jack on the plug-in key;
Bowls with a residue one-sided, bilateral and four-sided.

Important!
It is practiced fastening the jack with nails or plates, but we do not recommend this method in mind of its unreliability and diligence.

The most common and reliable fastening method is the use of indigenous spike. This is an ordinary straight or trapezoid spike and a groove, with which the parts are connected.

Methods on the spike and swords, in general, are not particularly different. Methods "in the paw" and "in the floor of a tree" are also similar to each other according to the characteristics, the connection "in the paw" is somewhat more reliable.

When working with the profiled bar, there are more often conjugation using special bowls, or "with the residue". To do this, the product at the end drink a special landing place in which the next part is inserted. The bowl may be single, two or four-way.

When erecting the house, with your own hands, it is necessary to know almost everything about how to mount a bar to Brus. Here are the most basic attachment methods:

Lower strand.
Vertical mount of frame racks.
Top strapping.
Corner, not angular racks.
Mounting corners.
Fastening a bar for cutting down.
Strengthening the carcass.
Fastening ceiling beams.

Before starting work with a bar, it is necessary to take care that all materials and the territory be prepared, where construction will occur.

Features of working with a timber

a frame of a frame should be dry, if it is not dry, then after installation, the frame from the OSB timber is reached;
all material is treated with a special antiseptic;
prepare the necessary fixing elements in advance;
before purchasing a bar, be sure to accurately calculate the necessary size of the scene frame, if this is not done, then with increasing thickness (unplanned), it will be necessary to add small parts into a frame that is not a good start when building a frame base.

The lower bump of the timber is made according to the principle of stacking on Ruralsk.

Before the strapping it is necessary to cover the foundation of the rubberoid (suitable cheap) or film, otherwise the bar is damaged (when the construction is frozen several months).

If there is no runneroid, you can cover the foundation by the usual film, which will protect the concrete from moisture and the formation of concrete milk. When the foundation is ready for laying a bar, check the frame plane by the level to make sure it is perfectly evenness. The bar is imposed on this surface, which is necessary for the lower strapping, while the bars are joined by sampling on the corners.

The sample can be in Poledev or in the paw. The option in Polterev implies a smooth slice of half of the timing of timber (for connecting to another timber). The mounting option in the paw implies a cut at an angle of 45% of the middle of the bar to the lower end (or the top, depends on where one of the bars when attaching).

When mounting a bar on the principle of angular fixation, one of the options are used:

anchor connection;
fasteners nails 150mm;
fastening with wooden brazing.

The bell must be made of dried oak, with a protrusion above the surface of a bar of 6-8 cm, the diameter of the brazen is always equal to the diameter of the mounting hole. Before fastening, the bars are checked: they must be equal to diagonally and corners.

At the bottom strapping, the timber is attached to the foundation with nuts with wide washers. The washer improves the fastening with the foundation, because it increases the clutch plane of two surfaces. The nut is chosen turnkey - hexagon, other options are not suitable.

When the bars of the lower strapping are connected by nails or copper - the angular anchor is not required. If the angles were fixed differently, without brazen or nails, the first anchor is attached to the angle in the place where the bars are connected.

The vertical racks of the frame structure are installed after the process of the lower strapping of BRUSEV is completed. When you work on installing racks, start with angular frames.

Fastening options

If the lower strapping on nails or anchors, then the angular rack is attached using a steel corner.
After attaching the lower strapping, the corner racks left for those left 6-8 cm left.

Fixing of non-burning racks is made in two ways: method of cutting, steel corners. Corners are reliable held design, have only one drawback - the cost. The corners themselves are fixed to the bruse with the help of self-tapping screws. The deforestation method implies the mount with a special recess having a depth of 50% of the thickness of the lower strapping. Example: If the timber has a thickness of 80 mm, then the cutting depth will be 40 mm.

Non-burning racks are necessarily bonded by bonds that keep the design and do not give it to break. The drives are needed until the top strapping of the design of the bars will be made, then the bumps can be removed.

The bars of the upper strapping is more convenient to poison on cutting down or with the aid of galvanized steel. If the deforestation method is selected, then it is necessary to make accurate markings on the cutting on each vertically installed bar (rack). The upper strapping grooves should coincide with the grooves of the lower strapping, otherwise it turns out a peaned construction, which will gradually fall apart.

Video

How to prepare space connections, see below:

Frame assembly technology from a bar for home or bath

Organization of the workplace for assembling walls

In order for the work to argue, the bars lay out to the stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the structure with one or better - from his two sides. Each layer of BRUSEV in the stack is placed on gaskets from the boards.

Near the storage room tools workplace for marking and cutting BRUSEV. A variant of the device of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

The marking of the timber using the template is convenient to perform at an altitude of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the markup zone, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered to low lining into the cutting zone. In this position, the timber is convenient and safely sawing with a chain saw.

Crawled timber raise the wall. To facilitate the lift, signs are suitable - inclined bars, which the top end relieve on the upper crown of the cut. The timber bar is moved using a rope.

Klion-shaped stops are navigated to the windows that make the ramp rise more secure. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to do small forces. Even one person can raise a bar if necessary, fixing it with the help of stops at intermediate points.

Works on the assembly of a log of timber is the most convenient to carry out a brigade of four. You can work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper crowns of the cut and roofs build forests.

Three-tiered forests on the front of the house. 1 - extreme racks; 2 - M-shaped rack of forests of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 - Central racks; 5 - Splits cruciform (shown conditionally); 6 - Baries

The assembly of the upper crowns of the church leads from the level of the first tier. Flooring the first tier is laid on G - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attach to the walls with bobbies, pos.6.

At the end of the roof (attic), on the facades where the device is needed, it is necessary to make forests in three tiers. For the device racks of forests use boards 50 x 150 mm. Flooring the same boards.

Working from the forest is more convenient, faster and safer than with stairs - do not forget about it.

Marking of bars for assembling walls

Practical construction experience shows that the sequence of the elements of angular connections in the head is not realistic.

Prior to the start of work, they draw a scheme of assembling the walls of the house, on which they denote: the sequence number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a wall assembly scheme of the house is shown in Figure:

The layout of the corner joints of the bar and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for the house with the overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and FROM - longitudinal walls; D. and B. - transverse walls; E. - inner wall of timber - partition; 1 - Shakes of Bruusyev.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 segments of bars long from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main bar of the standard length is 6 meters and a dog, 3 meters long. On one crown lay on the left long bars, and on the right are good. In the next crown, the laying begins in a similar manner, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and partitions are made from one bar of standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in the outer walls, joints of the bar of the longitudinal wall, pos.1, perform, making vertical cutouts "in the floor of a tree" with Faststom at 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected to the dressing with a native spike (see below).

How to quickly and quickly perform marking of thorns, grooves and other profiles, ensure the identity of the size of the bars blanks?

The easiest way to do this with the help of templates. The template is applied to the timber and transfer the pattern of the pattern profiles to the surface of the bar.

It is more convenient to place faster and there will be less errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, it has the same length with a locked part. I left the template on the bar and immediately moved all the sizes and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template is placed two mirror wall details.

If you think about, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for the markup of the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (for the wall assembly scheme, see above).

Two templates (isolated bright yellow) for the markup of the bar of longitudinal walls. 4 - groove for indigenous spike; 5 - groove for spike inner wall; 6 - pattern; 7 - Bar of Dog.

In the figure, at the top shows the template For the markup of the main bar in the crown, whose good is located on the right. On the wall markup scheme, these are the wints A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Lower pattern It serves to mark the main bar in the crowns with a good left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

Templates at first glance are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos.5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places of templates.

The same patterns are used to mark up the details of the good. To do this, on templates at points b. and from drilled through holes, and at points but and d. Cuts are made.

For the markup of the problem, the template is applied to a bar and through the holes and cuts heating points on the surface of the workpiece.

Remember this reception with the device holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

Templates are made of an arched "inches".

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 - for longitudinal walls and 1 - for transverse). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to get blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse pattern allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

And now consider how to apply templates. For the markup of the first vents of the crown (for example, starting on the left), the left template is laid on the bar and turn the end template to the marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, the sample for the connection "in the floor of the tree". The marked timber is transferred to the opening site, where unnecessary fragments (they are better at the markup
Stroke) cut with a chain saw.

How to place details with spikes? Obviously, spikes and grooves are elements of the same assembly, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In the details with a spike at the place of the groove mark the spike.

If the size of the groove is 5 × 5 cm, then the spike must have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The clearance is filled with interventory insulation.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. The markup is transferred to the vertical face of timber with the help of a square. On this markup and carry out neat cuts.

How to collect smooth walls from a timing of different widths

The technical conditions (TU) for the manufacture of timber is allowed to deviate the size of the timber in one direction or another side of the standard value indicated in the documents.

If in the purchase documents, the standard sizes of the timber are indicated, for example, the section 150x150 mm. and 6 meters long, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each bar, in the bar brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions specified in the documents, a few millimeters. Sizes in the section and the length of the bars will be different.

The size in size must be considered when developing templates, marking of the bar and assembly of walls.

How to collect smooth walls if the bar is different in width and length?

b. - minimum timing width; delta B. - the difference between a narrow and wide bar.

Obviously, from a bar of different widths, it is possible to make a smooth only one surface of the wall - or outside, or from the inside of the construction.

If you want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all bars in the wall are aligned along the outer face. Then inside the house the wide bars will perform from the wall on the value of "Delta b."(The difference between narrow and wide bars). The alignment of the outer face leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the BRUSEV (see Figure).

If the bars in the wall align on the inner face, then the "steps" of the repellent bars will be already on the outer surface of the wall. The wall is usually trimmed. And if the bar has to remove the chamfer from the outer edges, the steps on the wall will be invisible and without a sheaving. Corner compounds of BRUSIV are obtained more dense, "warm".

How and what to connect the crowns

Each crown of a log is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden brazers. Begroen placed at a distance of about 250-300 mM. From the end of the bar and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the bar.

Each detail of the crown is fixed at least two coppers. The length of the brazen must be at least 1.5 times, more than the height of the bar.

cm., pos. one.

Braided from round steel diameter 6-8 mm. - Pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mM.), just clog the hammer in the bars of the crowns, the option a. on the image.

The upper ends of the napillates from any material must be plugged into the bar on 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then during the drying of the bar and shrinkage, the cutting of the cut will be copied above the bar and raise the upper crown. Between the crowns are formed a large gap.

For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged berthed from reinforcement steel. The corrugated surface of such copiers will hold the bars of the crowns from moving during a shrink shrink, even if the heater is bold to the bar. The crowns will simply hang on such impudations.

Steel clogged gripped small diameter can not always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with a large length of the walls of the walls. Their use can be recommended for small-sized buildings - for example, bath. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install the increased diameter.

Steel braided with a diameter of 10 and more than millimeters, as well as wooden brazers insert into the holes drilled in a bar. The diameter of the holes make a little less than the diameter of the heater.

With a dense landing of the heel into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk increases that the shrink shrinkage will be interferent.

Wooden braided with a diameter of 25-30 mM. Convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made of solid wood. From the bottom end of the brazen, it is recommended to remove the chamfer - it will be easier to score the brazen into the hole.

You can cut from the usual chalkboard "inches" beaten square sections 25x25 mm. From one end of the workpiece shoot chamdes. Such stoles are clogged into a hole made by a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a heat from a relatively "soft" coniferous wood when smoking smashed, wood is compacted, providing a sufficiently dense landing of brazen in the hole.

How to drill holes in a bar under the brave

The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of napillates should exceed at least 4 cm. Begotten length. Moreover, the hole should be free from chips.

For drilling holes in a bar, sufficiently deep and large diameter, they usually use a low-speed electric floring (drill). In the passport of the power tool, it is usually indicated that the drill diameter in one or another material is calculated. Given the greater drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a reserve in power.

For drilling holes in a bar, it is convenient to equip the drill focus, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to a drill with steel clamps.

Emphasis, in the form of a wooden bar, attach to a drill, for example, clamps. Emphasis stops drilling at the necessary depth, but the rotation of the drill after that does not stop. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill cleans the hole from the chips, it turns into and, then, easily gets from the deep hole.

The drilling of the holes for connecting the crowns is convenient to produce in a bar, which is already installed on the wall in the project position on the interwetant insulation. But here usually The problem arises - the interventovaya gasket is not amenable to drilling. The fibers of the laying material are simply wound on the drill and clamp it.

You have to install a bar on the wall in two receptions. First, the timber is mounted without gasket and temporarily fix from the offset, for example, nails. Drill holes under bent. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and laid the interventic insulation.

In places of drills gasket cut out with a sharp knife. Then, the pace removed is re-installed in place, already on the gasket, and fastened with bellows.

Drilling holes in a bar laid on the wall should be produced, standing on a solid base - forests, suspensions, flooring. Stand on a narrow wall and drill dangerous. The drill can "eat", a powerful drill will unfold and easily throw an employee from the wall.

How to make a smooth wall of the curve

In the bar brought to the construction site, part of the bars may be curved. The bar may have a curvature in the same plane, or screw the screw and become a rhombid in cross section.

If there is an opportunity, then the curves of the bars are better not to use for the walls of the house or bath. Brux with curvature is recommended to cut into smaller parts and use in other, less responsible places.

A small amount of timber having a curvature in the same plane can be used for wall mounting. You should not put such a timber in the wall in bulk up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the bar will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curve bar is placed in the wall, straightening it in the horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

Curve bar straighten consistently fixing it with brazers

The curved timber is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a direct bar. After laying the interventovate insulation, the curved timber is fixed with impudent at one end and the intake is consistently fixed with anticipation at the other points.

To extend the timber of great efforts. Easy work will help the lever and bracket

Interventical gasket - insulation, seal

For and cold, gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, for this was used moss or linen pass. Currently, there are special laying materials based on flank or flax. Material for sale in the form of roll ribbon 20 cm.

The tape of the gasket material is laid throughout the upper face of a bar in two or three layers and fastened with brackets using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not trimmed, the gasket must be 1-2 from the outer edge of the bar cm.Otherwise she will wet.

Some wizards lay the gasket material into one layer and offered after shrinkage to cut the jokes, adding an additional amount of material in the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a smaller flow rate.

Work on the panties of the joints is quite time-consuming and tedious. It is better to immediately put the seal with a cessary, in several layers (three layers) to eliminate the need for horizontal jacks.

How to control the accuracy of the harbor

In the process of construction of the house or bath, it is necessary to regularly check the accuracy of the harness from the bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

Vertical angles.
Height of corners and walls.
The horizontal of the crowns and the upper faces of the bar.
Straightness of the walls.
The quality of laying interventory insulation.

For control vertical angles Apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle on each side of the crown apply a vertical line. 1 - lower strapping; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - Cocol.

On each side of the crown at the same distance from the corner rib painted the vertical line.

With the proper laying of the crowns, this line should be direct and coincided with a vertical. The vertical of the line is checked with a plumb.

If deviations are detected, then the operation is suspended and eliminated by the cause.

The height of the corners and walls are measured roulette. The measurement lead from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping bar using a water level.

Horizontal of the crowns and upper faces Bruus check by level.

Straightness of walls Determine visually by pulling along the cord wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from the verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the bar in the crown. The height of the angles is adjusted, increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the axial angles. Sometimes it helps, if you knock down a sledge hammer in a bar in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of laying interventory insulation check visually, examining the walls.

Window and doorways in Srub

From the second crown, the doorways begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor to the window is selected in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timets in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.

but - scheme arrangement of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - open doors; 3 - simpleness; 4 - open windows. in - Scheme of cutting timber, where C is the balance of cutting. g. - Option of the device of the opening in a chair with the installation of temporary bonding bars, pos.7. d. - Option with installation in the opening of the deck, pos.6 - immediately get the opening ready for installation of the door or window.

In practice, two options for the formation of openings are used when assembling a church.

One option - " g " on the image. The opening is done in the draft version, it is only preparation for creating an opening. The opening is preparing for the installation of doors and windows not immediately when assembling a log. This work is left for later - usually do after shrinking a church.

This option allows you to speed up the work on the grazing. In the opening, the bars are installed, bonding commonness with a log cabin, pos.7 in the figure. In the doorway, install at least two such bars.

In the process of shrinkage, the seaspler chub can "lead" inward or outward. To prevent it bar in stocks fasten up vertically installed boards.

In another embodiment - " d."In the picture, the openings immediately prepare for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (soups) are installed in the openings - a vertical bar with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The groove includes spikes of timber. In this way, the plain timber is fixed from the displacement. In this embodiment, the openings are immediately prepared for installation of doors and windows.

The decks (souls) traditionally serve not only for connecting timber in the opening, but also perform the role of window slopes, windowsill. To do this, they are carefully treated, relieve curly chamfer.

Installation option Window in a wall of timber: 1 - finishing of slopes of the window; 2 - the board of vertical souls with a rail - spike, enters into the slide of the wall of the wall; 3 - frame of the plastic window; 4 - sealing ribbon psyl

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and a device of plastic slopes and windows, the decks (s) can not be done. Brux in the opening fasten so. In the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening, the vertical grooves drink and insert a railway there, which fixes the bars of simpleness from the offset.

The length of the deck (s) or racks should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cmnot to prevent the shrink shrink.

Baths for home, baths in your city

How to install windows in a wall of timber

If the opening in the wall was made in the draft version (see above), then the installation of the window is starting from drinking the opening under the desired size. To do this, the rails are stuck, pos.2 in the figure, and the chain saw along the edge of the rails scolded bars.

Proper window installation in a wall of a bar. 1 - wall; 2 - Rake; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - Bar wall above the window; 7 - interwidder insulation; 8 - Shrinking gap over the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - Bar wall (simpleness); 11 - deck; 12 - Nail.

Then the disk saw on the ends of the bars wall (simple) is cut out spikes. The spikes, pos.10, are planted with grooves, pos.11. The joints are sealing insulation. The deck is naked to the walls of the wall with nails clogged at an angle, pos. 12. So nails will not prevent the shrink shrink.

In the window prepared in this way, the window box is inserted, which is attached to the decks with self-draws. Above the window box be sure to leave the gap, pos. 8, to compensate for shrinkage. The magnitude of the gap 5-7 cm. The clearance is filled with soft insulation material.

Compensation clearance must be left over the top end of the deck.

Similarly prepare openings and insert the doors to the walls from the bar.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is overlapped with inter-storey or attic beams (if the structure is one-story) overlap.

May be a constructive element. And can perform and independent function.

The next page describes the structure of the broken roof of the house from the bar, where the beams of floor overlapping simultaneously serve as an element of a malicious roof filament frame.

Look at the video clip in which the logging technology from the construction bar is described in a detail.

One of the highest quality and reliable building materials is a tree. The naturalness and "softness" of wood allow you to build very good buildings. But if the construction team is irresponsible to the quality of the attachment, then such a house, not enough of the fact that he does not like long, it can also be a threat to his owners. Therefore, it is very important to know how to make a timing of a bar.

The reliability of the wooden house depends on how the timber will be attached to the bruus.

Some features of Bruus

It is believed that the customer is always right, but many builders begin to impose their opinions. And then there may be disputes. One of these controversial moments is the choice of timber or logs. In order to answer this question, you need to know some characteristics of these materials.

The logs have very high indicators in frost-resistant and have good resistance to winds, preventing the formation of drafts from the gaps. But the creation of log walls is a very difficult job, requiring knowledge and skills, and even better than a highly qualified carpenter. Independent production of a log of logs threatens to lead to failure. The assembly of the logs is a phased process, because after the cutting, they give them time for shrinkage and only after that install.

Bar is the same wood, only already mechanically processed in production. Its properties of thermal conductivity are similar to log. The only, connecting seams of BRUSEV more purged. But even with this problem, they found how to deal with: you need to use alternation of bars with different heights. Thus, the seams are reduced, and how the supplement use special laying materials and insulation.

When the walls are erected from the bar, the need for the scrupulousness of work is significantly lower. Therefore, besides a professional, with this task cope with the newcomer, and an amateur. Very great convenience is that the timber has a minimal shrinkage. Therefore, it is almost immediately laid out on the foundation.

If objectively evaluate the logs and a bar, then in the second case, time for construction work is 2-3 times less than in the first. This significantly saves temporary, financial and human resources.

Principles of proper bruse

Since the angular connections of the construction of the bar are a rather weak place, all sorts of insulation are used to eliminate this disadvantage. There are several types of compounds for this purpose, not only for the angle, but also for the inner walls, rafters and beams.

Every place has its purpose, so that the whole building performs its functions, it is necessary to secure the timing to the bracket in all places.

For corner bars, such compounds were developed as jack, with or without it. From the inside, the T-shaped connection is used.

The longitudinal mounting of the bar is provided with a pin, a native spike, oblique or direct lock.

For such material, this compound provides maximum strength and reliability. To make it easier to work, you should act on a specially designed pattern. The main thing is to observe the lines of lines and control the bars tightly fit to each other. As already mentioned, the angular joints are additionally insulated.

Not the last role plays and the choice of the right tools. For example, without an ax, it makes no sense to take on a log house. Saw, hacksaw, hammer and kiyanka act as auxiliary force.

The most common compound for angles is a joint with a residue and a locking groove. The size of the groove orient the half of the tree thickness. This type is mainly intended for the first crown.

"Castle" can also be used for connections without residues. For these purposes, it is necessary to have pending with a cross section of 30 mm and a length of 25 mm. The bar is stacked on the pass, and then harvest the holes under the brazed. At this stage, it is important to compare the height of the bar and the depth of the aperture. The second must be 1.5 levels above the log length.

Newbirds are most often built with the help of jointers. Of course, this method is the easiest, but it has many nuances. First, with this version, the structure is vulnerable for wind, respectively, in the house will constantly blow the drafts. So, and heat there will not be delayed for a long time. Secondly, during frosts the building will be strongly cold.

In this embodiment, the connection of two bars with metal plates, nails with spikes. The two elements are stacked on the support part, after which both ends are fastened using a bracket.

T-shaped connection requires brazing. Thus, the most reliable fastening of all available is achieved. Additionally, connections with a key and direct groove can be used, as well as a symmetrical or rectangular trapezoid spike. The latter helps to restrain the compounds so that they are not loosened and caught up. Of course, in order to make such a spike, you need to be patient and time. Therefore, among professional builders, he is not so big popularity. But the heater is another matter. Compounds in the corners are strengthened with brackets, bolts and nails.

Advantages of a properly bonded profiled or glued timber

Despite the fact that wood is used in the construction has long been, it also has a number of "uncomfortable" features. First, the surface of the tree does not have perfect smoothness. Secondly, while working with it, it turns out a large number of burstles and bitch. If you do not work with the material correctly, it will be too vulnerable to cold winds, which will significantly affect the quality of living inside such a building.

A rope is passed through the holes and is fixed at the ends of the nodules.

It is the right technology of producing a bar made it possible to negate these shortcomings. A bright representative of such a "struggle" is a profiled bar. The finished material has special recesses and ridges on its surface. They provide a more dense joint, respectively, and higher quality compound. Given the profile, the methods of connecting profiled materials are similar to the ordinary bruus.

For the sake of justice, it is necessary to immediately designate that the cost of such a material is high enough, since the consumption of wood in the production process is very large.

Therefore, more preferences are given to glued analogue. Such a timber consists of separately glued together lamellas that lie with fibers that do not match each other. Such a material is initially pumped up to a smooth surface, soaked with special solutions that will protect the house from rotting and fungi.

The profiled bar has a good fire-resistance, similar to metal structures. The glued analogue is lighter, which makes it possible to significantly save on the laying of a heavy foundation. But again, preferences depend on the customer's individual wishes.

Wood has a very bright and unique structure, thanks to which the construction of it looks truly interesting and attractive, most importantly, original.