As a wooden bar to attach to a concrete wall. Fastening a bar to the wall as clipped wooden bars to a concrete wall

Wooden timber - practical building material. Low price, low heat loss, low weight and simplicity of installation of a house from a bar make this material very sought-after. However, fasten the timber on the foundation is not so simple, because the tree is not glued to the concrete and do not weld to the metal. In this article we will tell about how the timber is attached to various foundations, which pay attention and what errors are allowed.

Types of foundations for a house from a bar

Waterproofing

The lower bar, as well as the wooden woodscreen, it is necessary to protectively protect against water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creativity or other than effective (and most often smelling) substances. If there is no possibility to treat Scarlet or lower bar with heavy fractions of oils, it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron / concrete woodwork and the bar need to be laid at least 2 layers of the rubberoid. This material that falls out when the temperature drops. After all, in the morning the air temperature is growing, and the temperature of the foundation or woodwork remains unchanged. If you are using Wooden Scarlet, the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. It will protect the wall from dampness and prevents the appearance of mold and rot.

What kind of attachment is better

Choosing a fastening method, consider the following factors:

humidity of timber;
climatic conditions;
seismic activity;
the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fastening wet (over 16%), only the shrinkage compensators must be used to the wooden wrought-up. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, the bar is high and especially natural humidity, gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. For fastening a bar of high or natural moisture to a wooden painter, it is necessary to use the analogue of the shrinkage compensator, only made not from the screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same way can be used when installing a bar on threaded studs. Instead of nut and washers, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where strong and long rains go in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use the lower ram with humidity not higher than 12%, to process it with the most efficient hydraulic protection and set to the maximum rigid mount (ordinary and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire design. The same approach must be applied in those regions where the wind speed often exceeds 20 meters per second. The neglect of the rigid fastening in the seismic or windy regions will lead to the fact that the fastening under the influence of external factors will break out and the house will begin to swing. Disranged by shrinkage compensators when working with a natural and high humidity bar, as well as in regions with frequent and strong seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the bustling crown and the foundation or painter.

During the construction of the house or its repair, the situation is often developing when it is necessary to perform a brown wall mounting to the brick wall. In one case, it must carry a fairly serious load, in the other, is only a framework, where some facing material is attached, for example or drywall inside. For those who know the technology of installation, attach a timber bar to brickwork will not be a big problem.

When installing a bar to a brick wall, you need to take into account the properties of the structure, details, as well as the fastener method.

Where does this type of adjustment apply?

The scope of the use of nodes, where wooden bars are adjacent to the wall of the brick, extremely wide. Most often, this type of adjoining is used with such purposes:

consolidate furniture, household appliances or interior elements;
for mounting a septum of wood;
to put the doors in the opening;
for internal or, where the lattice from bars plays the role of a frame;
to hang a visor over the entrance to the house or elsewhere;
for the construction of an extension to the building (tambura or veranda).

When it is required to fix the interior items on the wall, the wooden bar is applied to the surface of the plafhmy and fixed with the help of fasteners. So he is able to carry a significant burden. The greater the magnitude of this load, the more pointing points to the brickwork must be provided. The same rule applies when, only the starting bar is installed vertically.

The door frame is constantly experiencing dynamic loads, so it is fixed to the brick especially reliable type of fasteners: anchors. They are used when installing various visors experiencing snow and wind load.

In the external or inner insulation of brick walls from bars, the crate (frame) is collected, which is the basis for mounting the facing: vinyl siding, drywall, plastic panels and other materials. In this situation, the tree is experiencing minimal mechanical loads, because it can be mounted on a dowel for quick installation.

For the construction of an extension, a reliable construction is required, carrying roofs with all the ensuing consequences.

In this case, wooden bars work as beams and adjacent to brickwork at an angle of 90 °. There are several ways, as they can be successfully opened on the brick and secure securely.

Masonry masonry plaff

To install bars on a brick wall with a full fit on the plane, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:

electric drill;
clogging dowels with plastic plugs;
drills and borants with a diameter corresponding to the size of the dowels;
a hammer;
measuring devices;
pencil.

First of all, you need to mark the markup, determining the position of the bar on the wall, and outline by his pencil. Then placed on the surface of the bar space of the drilling holes, which must be at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Further actions are performed according to the algorithm:

Choose a drill on the diameter of the plastic insert for a dowel and drill holes in Broke.
Take the drill, whose diameter is twice the original, and make a deepening so that the fasteners are gone into the "Putting".
Attach the bar to the outlined place on the wall and through the finished holes to put markup on the brick.
Put a drill to the drill and drill the deaf hole in the brickwork. Attach the timber, insert plastic plugs and nail his dowels.

The length of the dowels should be selected in such a way that they immerse themselves into the wall at least 50 mm. If the load is significant, then the distance between the points of the mount is less (10-15 cm), and the recess in the wall is greater (80-100 mm).

The attachment on the anchors is performed in the same manner, the difference is in a more thorough selection of the diameter of the boraxy and neat drilling.

If the hole comes too large, the shank of the fastener will turn into and tighten the anchor will not succeed.

Installation of beams

The traditional fastening of the wooden beam end to the wall is sealing in brickwork. This design of the adjoining node can be used in cases where the masonry thickness is 2 bricks (250 mm) and more. The reason is that the end of the bar must enter a specially prepared niche to a depth of at least 12 cm (Pollipich). If the thickness of the partition is not enough, then the niche will turn out to be through, which is unreliable and ugly.

The ideal option is to provide a niche under the beam in advance when the wall is erected. If this is not done, they can be carefully hollowed. Of course, the second support for the beam in the form of an extension frame must be performed before installing a wooden product in the design position.

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Installation of the bearing timber is performed as follows:

Produced antiseptic treatment of wood. The end, designed for embelling in the masonry, is wounded by the rubberoid.
The end of the beam is introduced into a niche, and the second is based on the finished design. The distance from the end of the element to the rear wall of the niche is 40 mm.
The position of the bar horizontally and vertical is evaporated, its second end is fixed by the selected way.
The slots between the surface of the brick and wood are sealed with cement-sandy M50 brand.

The inconvenience of this method is that it is necessary to spend time on the preparation of niche and waiting until the solution hardens well, otherwise with further assembly of the roof it will fall out with pieces. There is a more practical way: consolidate the plastle to the brick laying the support bar of the same sections as the beams. It is necessary to mount it so as to provide the necessary angle of inclination of the beams when they are supported on this basis.

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The supporting timber should be securely securely using anchor bolts leaving bricks at least 100 mm. Anchors setting step - 30 cm (3 fasteners for 1 mongor meter). After the beam, both ends relies on wooden structures and is fixed with galvanized screws on steel corners.

In this article, we will consider the question than to glue the tree to concrete. With the problem of connecting these materials sooner or later, many people are facing repairs in an apartment or in the house.

The need to glue such materials occurs when a wooden floor covering is placed on a bare concrete tie, the plinth is installed, wooden cartel is mounted, etc. However, sometimes fasteners are necessary for more solid and sweaty items and it turns into additional difficulties.

Methods of fasteners

In the photo - installation of wooden plates for the installation of wall panels

For a long-term history of construction work, a large number of ways to fasten wood to concrete were tested. Among the current and universally used methods, we note the use of specialized mounting adhesive compositions and the use of fastener hardware.

Consider the features of the implementation of these methods and find out what materials are optimal for such work.

The use of specialized adhesives

If a cutting of reinforced concrete diamond circles was carried out, and now the installation of small parts can be installed and by weight of wooden parts, you can use special mounting adhesives.

Properly selected adhesive composition allows reliably to fix not only baguettes or plinth, but also the lining on the staircase. However, it is necessary to understand that the assortment of adhesive compositions is wide, and therefore it follows to count on the optimal result only in the case of proper selection of the means.

If glue for concrete and wood is needed, pay attention to the following compositions:

Building glue "Liquid nails" - This is a relatively inexpensive and at the same time an effective solution for working with the materials you are interested in. "Liquid nails" and are presented on the market with several modifications, namely, "universal", "express", "supersyl", "especially durable", "for panels", etc.

If there is a question, how to attach a wooden bar to a concrete wall, the best choice will be particularly vicious and universal modification.

The universal type of glue "Liquid nails" is an excellent choice for use inside the interior. For example, we successfully glove the wall panels from sawn timber to in advance.

But if you are interested, then how to glue a tree to concrete at minus temperatures, you will need "liquid nails" especially strong with the force of setting up to 70 kg per 1 m². Such glue will keep wood even on uneven concrete at temperatures up -17 ° C.

Glue "Moment" - This is a wide range of various compositions with different technical and operational properties.

In the photo - the two-component composition "Epoxylin Duo"

Of particular interest is the modification "Epoxylin", which is a two-component composition working with a wide range of materials including concrete and wood.

After drying, the composition not only reliably holds glued surfaces, but can also be observed or subjected to another mechanical processing without compromising clutch strength.

Another modification of the glue, by which you can connect concrete with wood, is the moment of the joiner. This tool has been widely used in the process of laying outdoor coatings made using sawn timber.

Mounting foam - not bad option for simple and efficient gluing

In the photo - Application of mounting foam

If necessary, as glue, you can apply the mounting foam of increased strength. This is a good solution for flooring floor wooden coatings, mounting windowsill, wall panels, etc.

This method of connecting two surfaces is characterized by a number of advantages, among which:

affordable price, in comparison with other adhesive compositions;
high compound strength after complete drying;
low degree of thermal conductivity, which is relevant when finishing floors and walls;
excellent sound insulation qualities;
hydrophobicity;
biological stability;
simple application instructions.

However, there is a significant disadvantage, namely a long-term drying of foam. And therefore, for 5 minutes, the glued part will have to hold in the desired position so that it does not move away from the surface.

Important: To ensure optimal contact of the glued surfaces and foam, they must be slightly moistened with water.

Preparing the surface of the key to success

Whatever of the above compositions you would not have chosen, before attaching a tree to concrete, both surfaces must be properly prepared. In order for the result of the installation work, there was a durable and durable compound, both surfaces should be as smooth, dusted and degreased.

The main problem is the porous structure of the material, especially if the diamond drilling of the holes in the concrete was carried out. This property is the cause of excessive absorption of adhesive compositions, and therefore the connection does not have time to dial due durability.

Make a concrete coating, predisposed to gluing easy, for this you need to reduce the number of pores. To do this, primers are used in deep penetration, which seep into the porous structure of the material and frozen there. As a result, the micropores are closed, and the density of the concrete allows you to apply glue.

Important: Print wooden parts to prepared concrete bases should be in strict accordance with the instructions of the adhesive manufacturer.

Fasteners with dowels

If you need a high-quality and durable fastening of a wooden pillar to concrete, ordinary glue or foam can not do. In this case, you can apply fastening metal products, designed for high mechanical loads.

You can attach heavy wooden parts by means of dowel-nails and anchor bolts. The principle of operation of these fasteners is similar, since after they fall into the concrete, their work part begins to cut. As a result, the fastening of wooden pillars to a concrete base is obtained very durable.

Output

There are quite a few ways to ensure concrete surfaces with wooden parts, but the maximum strength will be guaranteed in the case of preliminary preparation. The need for disparates if the connection is applied by dowels.

You will find more cognitive and useful information by looking at the video in this article.

During construction or repair work, it is often necessary to attach a wooden bar to the wall of the house. If you need to create a frame for facing material, set any element of furniture or home appliances, make redeveloping walls or perform the construction of an extension, in any of these cases it is necessary to secure a wooden bar to the wall.

Further installation of wooden bars largely depends on the further performance of the work and reliability of the structure. First of all, you should choose the installation method and the necessary fasteners.

As a rule, for the construction and decoration of the walls used:

·concrete;
·brick;
·wood;
· Foot concrete blocks;
· Plasterboard.

After you have installed, to which material will have to install wooden bars, you can decide with the choice of fasteners. It is possible to calculate its quantity on the basis of the following norms: when the rail section of 2.5 to 4 cm, the distance between the fasteners should be up to 60 cm, on a bar with a cross section of 4 to 6 cm they are located at a distance of 70-80 cm.

What will we talk about:

Installation of timber for concrete base

To secure wooden slats on a concrete base, you need to perform the following steps. Initially, the timber is prepared, drilling holes in it under fasteners. Next, at the same distance we drill holes in the wall. For more accurate markup, you can applied to the surface of the wall already a drilled timber and apply marks on the available holes.

The drilling of concrete is carried out by a winning drill or drill with diamond spraying. It is better to use a drill with a perforator function. During the drill, the holes too heated drill are lowered during the water and cooled.

Further, wooden chops are clogged into the wall, the bar is applied and a nail is driven into each chop through it. In the next photo you can see how the mount for a concrete base looks. Carnate the rails from a tree to concrete can also be using anchors (in the photo below).

How to fix bars on brick

If the wall of the house is laid out of the brick, you should apply a slightly different installation technology. To do this, at a distance of a bar, we drill the holes with a drill on the tree, then change the drill to the winner. Having attached to the wall to the wall, through the drilled holes, we perform marking, anmative brick.

After removing the bar and drill holes in the brick wall of the required depth and width. At the same time, the drill is recommended to keep directly and not to break out, otherwise you can open the brick. You can mount the timber to the brick wall using dowels and screws. Anchor can also be used for the brick wall.

Features of the installation of wooden plates to aerated concrete

Recently, fuel-concrete blocks have often used to build houses and other buildings. They are easy to handle, so the building is built much faster. However, with a certain softness of aerated concrete, the features of the installation of bars on its surface are connected.

First of all, the choice of fasteners will depend on the magnitude of the future load on the bar. If the design is not loaded with a lot of weight, you can screw the screws or bolts of wedge-shaped in the blocks of aerated concrete. For this purpose, you can also use screws with threads along the entire length.

In order for the design to withstand fairly loads, steel or plastic dowels are used.

When choosing a fastener, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the aerated concrete blocks may eventually have a destructive effect on the metal. Therefore, before buying it is desirable to consult with the seller and find out all possible risks.

Installation of a wooden house wall

Quite often, during the construction of walls, the glued or profiled timber is also used. How do you need to mount the bar to the wall of the brusade house? Most often, perforated fasteners are used to connect wooden surfaces. It is possible to fasten them on the surface of the bar and walls using nails, screws or screws. Perforated fasteners are produced different types. To fasten the elements in the same plane, the plates are used if the mount must be carried out in different planes, the corners use.

If there is no long pressure on the design, you can use the mounting tape. Using nails for fastening wooden elements, you should adhere to a few simple rules. If nails have to clog in hard-to-reach places, you should use a bolt with a nut at the end. It is also necessary to choose the right length of nails.

So that the design is more stable, nails are clogged at a distance at a certain angle one to another. If the rails are made of wood, distinguished by high density, during the scoring of the middle of the nail to hold the passage. It will make it easier to drive out large nails pre-drilling holes.

How to properly mount bars to plasterboard

If the rails must be attached to the wall, plasterboard, installation is performed as follows. Due to a certain fragility of the material, nails and self-tapping screws are not recommended. As a rule, for reliable fixation of bars on drywall, nylon or metal anchors are chosen. They are screwed into the sheet and secured with the help of self-pressing.

This is the easiest way. A more stable fastening can provide drop-down anchors. Due to their special design, additional focus on the reverse side is ensured. Such anchor is inserted into the holes and tighten with a screwdriver until they fall completely.

You can also use conventional plastic dowels. To do this, drill a hole, insert a dowel, secure the timber with a screw. The rolled dowel will be able to emphasize from the back of the sheet.

To learn in detail about how to mount the bar to the wall, on the video below. As can be seen from the video, there is a sufficiently large number of ways to securely fasten the wooden structure.

Increasing interest in the wooden house-building in our country, he gave rise to the need to inform the public about the methods and techniques used in the construction of wooden structures. Many are interested in how to mount the timber among themselves, how to mount it to the wall, as well as what the advantages of those or other technologies and materials.

We will try to answer these questions.

The reliability of a wooden house or a bath from a bar depends on how to mount the bar to the bruus.

Brous connections

First of all, it should be said that the traditions of construction from wood around the world are incredibly rich and diverse, which is an obvious consequence of the vast experience accumulated by mankind in this industry of the craft. With the development of wooden construction, a huge number of masters, schools, traditions and methods of processing details appeared, so there is simply an unimaginable diversity of approaches to working with wood.

Moreover, each master contributes its adjustments and improvements, improving and complicating generally accepted methods of conjugation, fasteners and locks. It is impossible to consider all these techniques within the framework of one article, so we will limit ourselves only to the main and relevant methods of fixing details in the construction of wooden walls.

So, articulations are different in the spatial location of parts relative to each other:

Crown. This pairing between the details located in the adjacent layers or the wedges of the wall (from above or below), which prevent log displacements in the horizontal plane, their rotation and movement under the action of the gravity of the upper layers;
Facial longitudinal. Used by increasing the log length within one crown and prevent displacement of parts relative to the longitudinal axis, as well as an increase in the gap between them;
Facial angular artists. Serve for fastening logs when forming corners between the walls. Prevent displacements of logs and walls relative to each other, as well as turns and changes in the degree of the angle installed in the project. Prevent the expansion of the slots between the details in the corners of the building, the occurrence of drafts and the cold bridges;
T-shaped connections. There are in the docking of the inner walls and partitions with the external walls of the box at home or among themselves. Serve for a reliable hard attachment of the inner wall and prevent its displacements and dust;
Various pairing between wooden and stone structureswhich show how to mount the bar to the wall.

Important!
When considering certain methods of fixation, the possibilities of the modern tool and the level of your skill when working with it, as well as the feasibility and complexity of each method.
This is especially important if you intend to work with your own hands.

In each of the listed types of fixation of the wooden parts, there are many ways of fastenings and various techniques for the execution of locks and bowls, so they should be considered more.

Grief compounds

The wintical compound is a fastening between the parts along their longitudinal horizontal plane, which they fall on each other when the walls are erected. This mount must hold the details from displacements along this plane, rotations and drops under the action of gravity and internal stresses arising in the design.

For the implementation of the grief method, such fastening techniques are used:

Using metal pins and nails;
With self-tapping screws;
With the help of a bracket;
Using wooden brazing;
Using plug-in spikes and knaps;
With the help of special milling locks (in the profiled tree).

When using metal fastening means, it should be remembered that in places of wood contact and increased metal corrosion arises, which leads to premature damage of nails or pins, as well as to damage the tree in contact places. This is the easiest, the fastest, cheapest and unreliable way of fastening wooden parts.

Bowl of all used metal pins 6 mm thick or special nails without a hat. The main load will be applied at an angle to the axis of the fastening element, so the presence of a hat is optional, especially since it will interfere with the upper log sitting.

Before mounting the attachment, the log is drilled on the depth, a slightly large depth of the pin or nail. Sometimes the details are drilled through, but these are irrelevant subtleties, the main task is to fix the product in the horizontal plane.

Staples and self-tapping screws can be considered as auxiliary or temporal means of fixing the elements of the wall, as they are short-lived and unreliable. In addition, the brackets spoil the appearance of the design.

Go ahead. Wooden brazening is the most common and tested way. Everything is simple here: instead of a metal pin or nail, we use a wooden peg of a round, multifaceted or square cross section (more often round), which is clogged into a pre-prepared hole in the log, and the next part is planted on the protruding part.

It must be said that the method is quite simple and infertility, but at the same time very reliable, durable and durable. For the manufacture uses of solid rocks: oak, beech, ash.

Important!
The brace must consist of durable wood, having humidity lower than those of the details of the house, as well as perpendicular to the fibers of the timber's own fibers.

If you work yourself and do not have an impressive experience in a carpentry craft, this method can be considered a good compromise between the complexity, the complexity and reliability of the attachment. Especially since it is easy to find and buy in a construction store or get complete with the material.

Also, for the groves, plug-in spikes and keys are used, which are inserted into specially prepared grooves located along the horizontal surfaces of the logs. Today, it is more common to compounds using a spike and a groove, painted in the product at the factory under profiling. It is typical for the glued timber and sets for the construction of houses from a tree, since the presence of such a lock greatly simplifies and speeds up the grazing assembly.

Facial longitudinal nodes

If you do not know how to bore the timber with each other with longitudinal buildings, we present to your attention such a way as a word. Also, this method is called a straight or oblique lock, pairing "in the paw", "in the floor of a tree", etc.

In addition, there are such ways:

Fastening with a longitudinal spike on the knaps;
Fixation with longitudinal indigenous spike;
Combined nodes.

Important!
In the case of straight and oblique locks, the details should be additionally fixed with wooden bellows in the contact places of surfaces.
To do this, in the middle of the castle make two holes and insert pegs in them.

When working with a glued profiled bar, the longitudinal extension is not required, as the parts are selected for a specific project and have the necessary length. Despite the fact that the price of this material is high, a sufficient number of such advantages makes it very popular.

Corner articulations

Corners - the most responsible sections of the design of a wooden house. Therefore, fasteners pay special attention.

There are many ways to implement such a pairing, like an angle:

Robust jack with a straight lock or "in the floor of a tree";
Disappointing with a skew castle or "in paw";
Fastening on a native spike;
Fixation of jack on the plug-in key;
Bowls with a residue one-sided, bilateral and four-sided.

Important!
It is practiced fastening the jack with nails or plates, but we do not recommend this method in mind of its unreliability and diligence.

The most common and reliable fastening method is the use of indigenous spike. This is an ordinary straight or trapezoid spike and a groove, with which the parts are connected.

Methods on the spike and swords, in general, are not particularly different. Methods "in the paw" and "in the floor of a tree" are also similar to each other according to the characteristics, the connection "in the paw" is somewhat more reliable.

When working with the profiled bar, there are more often conjugation using special bowls, or "with the residue". To do this, the product at the end drink a special landing place in which the next part is inserted. The bowl may be single, two or four-way.