Repair Design Furniture

Construction of wooden windows with double-glazed windows. How to make a wooden window - the main steps. Structures of timber window profiles

I decided to change the windows on the veranda, in the village house. I wanted the windows to be wooden and warm - I don't want to “clog up” the dacha with plastic. A wooden double-glazed window is not cheap, if not expensive. I have the tools, my hands seem to be in place too, I measured and ordered the double-glazed windows themselves, single-chamber, without frames, 30 mm thick. For the entire veranda, these are 7 windows, 1.3 m in size - width x 1.4 m - height, it turned out 13,000 rubles. And he started making wooden frames.
What did I need for one window

1. Dry, edged, planed board - 100 mm x 20 mm x 3000 mm (120 rubles / piece) - 8 pcs.
2. A dry, edged, planed bar - 45 mm x 30 mm x 2000 mm (58 rubles / piece) - 4 pcs.
3. Glue, wood impregnation, self-tapping screws - about 50 rubles.
4. Glazing bead - 35 mm x 14 mm x 3000 m (125 rubles / piece) - 2 pieces.
5. Double-glazed window - (with delivery) - 2000 rubles.
TOTAL: 3492 rubles.
Window beam manufacturing
Two boards 100 mm x 20 mm sawed in half - I got 4 boards of one and a half meters.

Board 45 mm x 30 mm while "resting".

We take 2 three-meter boards 100 mm x 20 mm and mark every 100 mm ...

We draw with a square on the marks.

Sawing into squares 100 mm x 100 mm - I did it by trimming.

On the segments, mark four marks by 20 mm from each edge.

We drill through with a 4 mm drill.

And then, we glue the segments, ATTENTION !!! fibers across !!! to one and a half meter four boards.

And we pull with 32 self-tapping screws for wood.

Then we drill through with a four-millimeter drill in this way. From the edge 20 mm.

We put on glue (on the opposite side of the segments) a board of 30 mm x 45 mm (which was resting)

Turn over and pull with 65 wood screws.

We got four such blanks.

We cover the blanks with impregnation - I used biotex, for 2 layers.

Mark the desired length and file the edges at 45 degrees.


I used trimming.

Assembling the frame

We connect our blanks and drill holes at an angle through and through with an 18 mm drill.

The joints of our blanks and 18 mm pins are carefully coated with professional PVA glue (household glue is not suitable). And we drive the dowel through and through.

Saw off the extra dowels. And we connect three more corners ...

We got such a frame.

We insert a pre-prepared double-glazed window into it.

We adjust the glazing bead to the size and pull the glass unit with it. By the way, I also covered the glazing bead in advance, 2 times covered with biotex.

Well, here are the installed windows. We have already survived the winter - the flight is excellent.


And these are the windows that stood before the double-glazed windows.

And this frame opens. Now I'll tell you how I made it.

Opening sash manufacturing

We saw above how to make a frame for a window opening - now how to turn it into a full-fledged, opening window. We take the frame, and in the upper and softer quarters, exactly in the middle, we make cuts 40 mm wide, to the depth of a quarter and remove these segments.


We measure the resulting height, on a pre-prepared, dry board 100 mm x 40 mm, make a mark corresponding to the length,


sawing off the board of the required size

and install it in place, having previously coated the joints with glue. Also, I made two holes from above and below through the frame right into the forty and drove the 18th dowel there onto the glue.

We have not forgotten the 30 mm x 45 mm block - on the frames above, we made quarters out of it. Here this bar will perform the same function - cut it off according to the required length and glue the forty on both sides - I missed with glue and pulled it off with clamps, after a couple of hours I can't tear it off.

We install the blind part of the glass unit,

and we pull the glass unit with glazing bead.

Well, we have the frame, the blind part of the window is made, the opening for the opening sash is the same - it remains to make that part of the wooden double-glazed window that will open and close)

In the next picture, I showed the dimensions of the wooden profile that I used to make the opening sash. I made these cuts with a circular saw, which has a height-adjustable saw blade.
On the image:
Oh is our frame
1 - profile of the opening sash, into which the double-glazed window will be inserted
2 - the profile of the opening sash, which will serve as a glazing bead, as well as close the gap between the sash and the frame.

In order to make a frame for a double-glazed window from profile No. 1, we measure the window opening and subtract 8 mm from the height and width - this is so that our future opening sash "has freedom of action")))

We cut profile No. 1 into 4 pieces of the required length at 45 degrees - we will join in the same way as the frames.

We drill with an 18th drill - 2 holes per joint, carefully coat the joints, as well as the dowel and holes with professional PVA glue. And the next operation must be done immediately, while the glue has not yet set.

We dilute PVA glue and sawdust, apply it to the place where the glass unit will adhere to the sash, as well as between the package and the sash, glue with sawdust should also be applied. Installed a temporary glazing bead on 4 sides. Then I inserted the sash into the window opening, wedged it with wedges on all sides, and left it all for 2 days ...

After 2 days, I took out the sash from the opening, and fixed it on the frame with hinges such as in Figure 4. I also glued profile No. 2 to the PVA glue with the help of clamps, having previously filed it with the required length at 45 degrees.

And this I glue profile No. 2 on the sash.

The fittings on the window can be installed at least a mortise, at least an invoice. I was fortunate enough to dismantle the antique furniture of the 19th century - cast iron from the windows, restore and install it on this sash - it is visible in the photo above. The sash turned out to be monolithic, albeit heavy - the dry wood glued well.

Making wooden windows with double-glazed windows with your own hands is a laborious process and requires a lot of time and effort. However, the result will please. Firstly, such windows perfectly keep the warmth in the room. Secondly, the wooden base is breathable, as they say. Thirdly, wood has high sound insulation rates, in combination with a high-quality double-glazed unit, it will achieve almost complete isolation from noise in any conditions. Fourth, the environmentally friendly material is completely safe. Video:

How to make a double-glazed window with your own hands

Double-glazed windows have gained unprecedented popularity in recent years due to their technical features. What is needed for self-production of a double-glazed window?

  • Double-sided mounting tape (1-2 mm thick);
  • sealant or plasticine;
  • hardener;
  • catalyst;
  • cleaner.

A special styrene-based binder is used to hold the glass together, which can be prepared at home. To do this, you need methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in a solution of dimethyl phthalate 36 percent, this element plays the role of a hardener, as well as a cleaner and toner (synthetic paint).

The volume of the binder is calculated depending on such factors as the thickness of the mounting tape and the dimensions of the glass: for a tape with a thickness of 1 mm and 1 sq. M. glass will require a liter of composite.

Advice! It is recommended to prepare the solution in a container with a scale - this simplifies the measurement of the components.

In a clean plastic container, mix the components, then add the hardener. The dosage is calculated taking into account the temperature, the higher, the greater the percentage (from 1% at + 24 degrees to 2% at 12 degrees).

If you want to paint the glass in any color, for example, to create a tinting effect, then a toner paint is added to the solution, the dosage of which is no more than 5%.

The solution is thoroughly mixed and left for 15-20 minutes. This is done so that the air comes out and no bubbles form on the surface.

The first step is glass preparation. Cut out two panes of the same size to fit the window. The surface is thoroughly washed with a glass cleaner, and then wiped dry with a paper towel or newspaper.

Important! The tape should be glued so that there is a small gap at the corners. To do this, it is necessary to retreat 2-3 mm from the edge of the glass.

Remove the protective layer from the tape and attach the second glass joint to joint. Press down slightly for better grip. Next, the glass is poured with a solution-component. For this, the glasses are moved apart, a funnel is inserted into the glass unit.

Important! When gluing the tape, it is necessary to leave space for the funnel. To do this, the ends of the adhesive tape are led out, and the protective layer is not removed.

For convenient pouring of the reagent, it is necessary to position the structure at an angle. A wooden block is placed under it. The liquid is poured through a funnel. After the glass unit is completely filled with the component, the funnel hole is sealed. The funnel is removed, and the remnants of the protection of the mounting tape are removed.

If bubbles are found inside, then they are removed using a medical syringe with a needle. The glass unit is sealed around the perimeter and left to dry completely - this will take 2-3 hours. This method will save money on the purchase of a finished insulating glass unit.

How to install a wooden glass window

After the double-glazed window is ready or, as an option, purchased ready-made, then it must be fixed in a wooden frame. This manipulation is performed using a sealant. In order to make the window look aesthetically pleasing, it is recommended to use a colorless sealant. That's all the window is ready.

The installation of a wooden window with a double-glazed window has a number of features that are determined depending on the type of opening and the material of the house where the window is placed.

The technology of installing a wooden window into a brick or concrete building

Stage number 1. Analysis and preparation of the opening. The window opening must have a clear geometry. To do this, all faces are checked using a level. Surfaces are cleaned of debris, irregularities are removed.

Stage 2. Installation and fixing of the window block in the opening. The frame is fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws, but, in no case, nails or polyurethane foam. The distance between the fasteners is 70-80 cm.

Stage number 3. Sealing. A double-glazed window can lose its properties if there are gaps between the frame and the box, therefore, sealing with a sealant is a mandatory installation moment. A compression tape is used as a sealing agent.

Stage 4. It is imperative to carry out measures aimed at the vapor barrier of the structure.

Stage number 5. Elimination of cracks and holes. The final step is foaming the holes. Polyurethane foam will help to avoid the ingress of cold air, dust. After hardening, the foam is cut off with an assembly knife. From the outside, in order to avoid the destruction of the foam during operation under the influence of natural factors, they are sealed with tape, mounted cashing or plastered.

Stage number 6. Installation of the window sill. The board must be made of hardwood (oak, beech).

The user chooses the dimensions and design of the window sill. However, it is worth remembering that the window sill should not protrude more than 5-6 cm. If you want to expand the structure, then it must be strengthened.

Four years ago, I published the article "Drawings of the profile of the window block (wooden double-glazed window)", where I attached photos and drawings of the profiles of a wooden window. Over the years I have received several emails asking me to show drawings of corner joints or send me more detailed drawings. A week ago I received another such letter and today I will try to clarify the situation with this review article.

Letter from the reader of ModelMen.ru

Writes: Daniel

Hello Dmitry. I am from Sevastopol (Crimea, Ukraine). I was very interested in the drawings of a wooden window with a double-glazed window. (). Now I am doing repairs in the house and did not want to install plastic windows, but the wooden ones were very expensive, I came to make them myself, I began to look for drawings in the internet and many search engines indicate yours. You write that you developed the drawings yourself, so I wanted to ask you a question as a developer. How much the window should be smaller than the frame, that is, if the frame is assembled, then how should the frame be calculated (height width) so that they exactly fit each other and do not create cracks when closing (or do not cling to each other). Is it possible to make such a window without a milling machine? How to join corners (butt or 45 degrees)? What fittings was the window designed for? I promise that if I succeed in making such a window, I will post photos of the phased creation of such a window. Thank you in advance. With admiration, Daniel.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

So let's go!

Is it possible to make such a window without a milling machine?

Yes, it is possible! Moreover, such a window can be made with only a circular saw at hand. In my arsenal there is a modern saw blade for aluminum, although at the time of sale it was written that it also saws wood, of course. My disk looks like this one:

Specifications:
Disc diameter 255 mm.
Number of teeth 80 pcs.
Bore diameter 30 mm.

My true bore hole is 32 mm and a larger diameter, but the point is not in this, but in the number of teeth! Thanks to the large number of teeth on the disc, it cuts wood exceptionally clean. I often asked my friends to compare planed wood and sawn with this blade, sawn always won in quality. Home planing machines often do not provide a high-quality planed surface, it turns out to be wavy, especially at the ends of the workpiece, and not everyone can afford industrial equipment.

Why am I all this, you can make a wooden window by having a circular machine and a good saw blade with a lot of teeth (soldering) at hand.

How to connect corners?

The most interesting question :) because most people make a simple spike connection into one spike.

These single-stud frames have already proven themselves to be extremely short-lived. If you want the window to serve for a long time and withstand a large number of opening and closing cycles of the sashes, then make a tenon connection in two spikes. Of course, it can be made in three spikes, if the thickness of the frame allows.

The more spikes, the larger the gluing area of ​​the parts and, accordingly, such a spike connection is several times stronger.

How to make a spike connection?

This is not as difficult as it seems at first glance, first you need to saw off four blanks to size, two vertical and two horizontal. It can be just rectangular bars or bars with a selected profile. The length of the blanks depends on the size of the box of the window block, of course it is better to calculate this on the drawing.

You can even cut the blanks by eye to length, attaching them to the finished box, but taking into account that the frame should overlap the box. Of course, in this case, a profile must already be selected in the blanks for the frame.

Thorns and lugs are usually cut on a milling machine, but we have circumstances, there is no machine, so the same can be done on a circular saw with the help of simple devices or without them at all.

It should be noted right away that the vertical parts of a wooden window or door are always eyelets, and the horizontal parts should be spikes.

For example, I will show you a video of how the guy makes spike joints on a circular with the help of his device.

Here's a trickier device:

In both videos, box spikes are made, they are small, there are a lot of them and it is difficult to make them without tools. If you make one or two windows, then you can do with a simple device as in the first video, but without a pin, then all the work will need to be done by marking with a pencil on the workpiece.

What fittings was the window designed for?

To be honest, I took the fittings and the profile of the plastic window as a basis. I don't know if there are any differences between the fittings for a wooden and for a plastic window, but I think that having any of them you can adapt.

At the beginning of this winter, I installed a factory-made wooden window in my kitchen on my own. Below you can see a photo of the window, which elements can be taken from there when developing a drawing.

Today, I would depict my profile a little differently than four years ago:

As you can see, I increased the size of the bars to 80 mm., After all, we have severe winters, and I would like the warmth to remain in the house, besides, a more massive frame will be stronger and look better.

In this article, I again do not give you ready-made drawings and window sizes, because in order to develop them, you need to have window fittings in your hands and understand how it is attached and works. Unfortunately, I have no experience with such fittings, so I cannot yet develop a ready-made drawing. Below I tried to visually depict how the gusset spike should look like.

I found a few more photos on the Internet showing the elements of the spike joints of a wooden window. I hope the information I have given will help you to independently develop a drawing of a wooden double-glazed window and bring it to life. Good luck!

When making wooden windows with your own hands, you must observe accuracy in work. A mismatch of a few millimeters can lead to a distortion of the entire structure during its installation. As a result, there is a risk of violation of thermal insulation.

However, if plastic double-glazed windows are produced only at the factory, then wood products, if you have the necessary tools and work experience, can really be made independently. This design is especially in demand in country houses and dachas.

Profile selection

Khrushchevs and long-built private houses are especially in need of replacement of window frames. Replacing old shutters with wooden windows is the best option. It is important to make the right choice of the product profile. Single glass is sometimes used. Double-glazed windows are considered another method.

If in the first case, the advantage is low cost, then double glass provides better heat retention due to low thermal conductivity. This is especially important for areas where frosty weather sets in in winter. Inert gas is pumped into the gap. Over time, it comes out, but from this the glass unit does not lose its characteristics.

There is another type of window - a Finnish 3-chamber double-glazed unit. On the one hand, a system of 2 glasses is installed, and on the other, a single version.

Selection of the type of wood

Before starting work on the manufacture of a wooden structure with your own hands, you need to make the right choice of the type of wood:

  1. 1. Oak. Good material for these types of work, but very expensive.
  2. 2. Birch. Is the best option. Wood lends itself well to processing and has a low price. The disadvantage is the complexity of the acquisition.
  3. 3. Pine. If used correctly, it will last for a long time. The material is inexpensive. Given its availability, a beginner can work with it.

Making a wooden product

Before starting work with your own hands, a drawing of the future window structure is created. Then materials and tools are procured:

  • wooden beam;
  • boards;
  • glass;
  • glazing beads;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • PVA glue;
  • hammer;
  • drill;
  • glass cutter;
  • milling machine with a set of cutters;
  • saw.

Step-by-step instructions for making wooden windows consist of the following steps:

  1. 1. Forming the box.
  2. 2. Manufacturing of the frame.
  3. 3. Glazing.

It should be remembered that wood material is selected with precise geometry and no cracks.

Box formation

The box is made when it is absent in the structure of the house. Its need is to take on the main load and unload the frame.

Stages of its manufacture:

  1. 1. An L-shaped groove is made in a board with a section of 15x5 cm. Its depth is 1.5 cm.
  2. 2. Four boards are connected in the form of a box.
  3. 3. In the corners, holes are drilled to a depth of 3 cm.
  4. 4. Wooden pins are hammered into them. This gives the structure its rigidity.

Frame making

A drawing assists in the manufacture of the frame.


On the side and intermediate strips, a quarter is selected. This is a sample of wood where glass will be inserted.


At the end of the beams, grooves are made of the thorn-groove type. An end mill is used for this. If it is absent, then a regular chisel is used.


Places are filled with PVA glue, fastened and pressed.


A sash is placed in one part of the frame. For this, samples are made in the uneven bars. The sash is made according to the same principle as the frame. It should fit snugly into its intended place. After that, the marking is carried out for fastening the hinges.


Holes are drilled in the marked places, the loops are fixed. Then comes the installation of the handles. To do this, a groove is milled in the sash rail and a mechanism is inserted. In the counterpart, a place for the tongue to enter is formed.


Glazing

When installing glass, its exact cut with a tolerance of no more than 0.5 mm is required. For this, a diamond self-tapping screw is used. The final polish is done with sandpaper.


If the deviation in dimensions reaches 1 mm, then a cold bridge is formed. The window will not perform its function.

Glazing work requires compliance with safety precautions:

  1. 1. In order not to injure hands, gloves are worn.
  2. 2. Glasses are required. The eyes are protected from glass microparticles getting into them.
  3. 3. It is not recommended to breathe through the mouth and talk. Together with the air, glass crumbs settle on the mucous membrane of the throat.

The order of work is as follows:

  1. 1. The glass to be cut is measured beforehand. For this, a meter ruler is used that exceeds the dimensions of the material.
  2. 2. A line is drawn with a diamond glass cutter.
  3. 3. A plate is applied to the glass so that its cut coincides with the line, and is well pressed.
  4. 4. By pressing the hand, the glass breaks off with a characteristic crack along the fracture line.
  5. 5. Fitting in progress. If the cut is made exactly, then the glass is installed and pressed with glazing beads, into which thin nails are driven in.
  6. 6. When installing double glazing, a bar with the selected grooves is attached between them.

Most modern windows are insulated glass units made of prefabricated panels. These windows are notable for their ease of use, but they also have some disadvantages. So, for example, if one of the glasses is accidentally broken, it will not be easy to replace it, especially if it has a non-standard size. In addition, companies that produce double-glazed windows often close, and many models, when it comes time to replace glass, are discontinued.

For those who are interested in how to make wooden windows yourself, the photos and detailed instructions posted on this page will be very useful. The photo shown below shows a real home-made double-glazed unit, for the manufacture of which neither special skills nor significant financial investments are required. If glass breaks in such a glass unit, a replacement can be easily found in any hardware store, and if condensation collects between the glasses, then it will be enough to change the sealant and replenish the desiccant.

Double-glazed windows that have an air gap not filled with any noble gas, due to the circulation of air flows between the glasses, suffer significant convective losses. Noble gases have a large mass, which significantly slows down diffusion. But on the other hand, as the glass unit ages, it tends to be lost, and in a bag filled with air, you can add a desiccant and change the sealant without special devices.

The most common material from which wooden window frames are made is pine, which is considered the most practical, inexpensive and available wood today. A reasonable substitute for pine wood is oak, but for the first time in their lives, craftsmen who make wooden windows are better off choosing less expensive types of wood. Wooden beams for wooden windows must be dried according to all the rules, and in addition, they should not have any twigs, cracks or other damage. It is important to remember that the boxes, when they are fixed in the window opening, take on the main mechanical load. If glued laminated timber is used for the manufacture of all elements, then its strength will be sufficient to withstand deforming loads.

Tools for the job that will be needed

If, for example, a 150x50 mm board will be used to make a box, then in the blanks for it you will need to make a groove 15 mm deep in the form of the letter G. For the block, you will need to make four blanks, and then connect them with glue (best of all, carpentry) , and additionally drill holes in the right places and insert a three-centimeter rod made of wood, which will provide the connection at right angles with immobility and the necessary rigidity.

The finished box is motionlessly fixed in the prepared window opening. To do this, drill holes in the wall, drive in dowels and fix the finished structure with self-tapping screws. If there are gaps between the finished block and the walls, they must be sealed with construction foam. It should be remembered that the installation of the box does not take into account the mobility that it can acquire with temperature drops.

Manufacturing of a frame from wood.

The main feature of the project presented here is the sash, which expands the glass and provides free space for the sealant and wooden glazing beads that hold the glass.

For those who are going to make do-it-yourself windows from wood, the drawings on this page show how to make a frame for ten-millimeter glazing beads that will securely hold four-millimeter glass. The gap between the glasses is about 1 cm, while no metal parts expanding them are used. It should be borne in mind that a seal for wooden windows, the width of which is equal to the width of the glass, will not be the best option for such a design: it is better if the cross-section of the seal is equal to the cross-section of the groove.

Making a box for a window

The best sealant will be a material that does not suffer from exposure to sunlight. Often a silicone seal is used for this, but it should be noted that it is not suitable for such purposes in the best way, since it is difficult to remove from the glass surface. You can make the frame from pine wood, or you can use white oak wood or other blanks. Before cutting the material for the window frame, carefully measure the perimeter of the window opening and increase the result by another 10%.

Assembly of frame parts.

To assemble the binding shown here, you will need to saw the material at an angle. Groove and tenon joints hold the structure tighter, but continuous grooves are better suited for the seal. It is best to use flat head screws with coarse threads to connect parts of the frame to each other. Flat head screws are best sunk into the holes.

DIY window frame assembly

Glass cutting.

The glass cutting process is inherently not difficult, but it is important to take into account some of its nuances. First of all, you should take care of observing safety measures: reliably protect your eyes and hands from possible surprises. The glass must be strong and completely intact. Before cutting, the glass is thoroughly cleaned and then greased with a small amount of grease.

Experienced craftsmen advise to always cut glass in one cut. When you press the glass, a sound is heard, after which the glass is moved to the very edge of the working surface and pressed on it. To make such a double-glazed window, as discussed here, you need to make measurements with millimeter accuracy.

After cutting, the edges of the glass are processed for polishing with sandpaper.

Assembly of the window structure.

First, the glass for fitting is inserted into the frame, and then the sealant is removed and put in its place. The glass is placed back into the frame and wooden glazing beads are installed for the windows, and then the window is painted and equipped with handles.

When attaching glazing beads, tighten the screws slowly, starting from the middle. This is to ensure that too much pressure is not applied to the fragile corners of the frame.

Proceeding from the fact that the window should, if necessary, be easily repaired, the caps of the screws used should not be painted over, but many prefer not to be visible. The perfect way to hide the screws has not yet been found, so everyone chooses what suits him best.

We install a window frame in a house from a bar

A desiccant must be placed between the glasses. To do this, a hole is added at the top of the window sash, which is later caulked with a wooden pin. If you have a compressor on hand, you can fill the gap between the glasses with dry air. The pins are painted with paint before installing the window and repeat this procedure after it.

The window mentioned here does not fog up even after a year, and if you need to replace the glass, it will not cause too much difficulty. Such windows can be installed even in rooms with high humidity (that is, in the bathroom or in the kitchen).

Additional information.

The screw holes can be closed with decorative handles. Using standard screws can also scrape paint out of their grooves.

For reliable sealing, experienced craftsmen insert glass, having previously applied a sealant to the places of its joints with the structure. To make the window more resistant to weather conditions, you can apply a window putty over it after the sealant dries. It is important to know that some modern putties can be difficult to remove from glass, making it much easier to work with traditional window putties.

It is best to paint the windows a few days after the putty has been applied.

Wooden window options

How to make laminated plastic windows

For the manufacture of laminated window blocks, specialized technologies are used. A special film is applied to the plastic profile, which is attached to the surface with glue. The film consists of several layers embossed on its surface, and in order to apply it to the plastic surface, it is necessary to use laminating equipment.

Lamination is necessary not only to make the windows look more aesthetically pleasing: in this way they become more resistant to all kinds of weather conditions and are durable and remain extremely easy to maintain. There is a film, the surface of which resembles natural wood. On such a decorative film, dust and dirt are practically invisible, therefore plastic windows laminated under a tree, the photos of which can be seen below, are incredibly practical.

In addition, the windows covered with foil are resistant to temperature fluctuations and weather conditions. The structure covered with PVC film is not sensitive to atmospheric precipitation, and the film itself retains its color even under prolonged exposure to sunlight.

Another indisputable advantage of lamination with PVC film is a wide range of its colors and textures, among which there is a suitable option for any occasion.

Window shutters made of wood

After installing the shutters, the room becomes additionally protected from cold weather and atmospheric phenomena. Wooden shutters for windows, photos of which can be viewed at the end of the page, are made external or internal, and in structure - single or double-leaf, panel or paneled. Anyone can make such shutters on their own.

Window shutter design option

What is required for the manufacture of shutters

To make wooden window shutters, you need boards 100-200 mm wide and more than 20 mm thick. Hardwood veneered planks are considered the most suitable, but a smooth fugue is also fine.

In addition, you will need to take care of the availability of tools for woodworking: a hacksaw, a drill, a screwdriver, a plane, a chisel, etc. You will also need measuring tools: a level, a tape measure and a carpenter's corner. For the final stage of work, you need to purchase drying oil, brushes and paint, as well as an antiseptic.

Assembly of shutters for windows

Making simple shutters

How to make ordinary shutters out of boards

  1. Measure the existing opening on the outside and inside, and then draw up a scheme for cutting the boards and cut them out.
  2. To prepare the boards for the end connection, they are joined together. Smooth jointing boards can be glued, but additionally you need to reinforce it with a rail so that it covers the resulting slots.
  3. It is easier to unite the shutter curtain using the locking method: select a groove in the end part, and provide a spike on the opposite side. Experienced craftsmen recommend buying ready-made grooved boards that are used for flooring.
  4. After rallying, the canvas must be additionally strengthened with transverse jibs and overhead ties.
  5. Hidden joining of shields is carried out using threaded rods. For this, holes are drilled with a thin drill in the end sidewalls of the boards, and then they are reamed until the diameter of the stud is reached. After that, the boards are strung on studs and bolted together, and their ends are abundantly coated with wood glue so that there are no gaps left.

Manufacturing of paneled shutters

  1. A panel is called a thin board inserted into a frame frame. Such shutters not only look beautiful, but also have great durability. In hardware stores, ready-made panels and profiled beams with selected groove grooves are sold, but you can order the necessary parts directly from the joiners.
  2. The panels are made smooth or decorated as you wish. They can have tongue-and-groove layouts or selected moldings. Also, the panels are floating, figurine and can have a frame decorated with carvings. If you wish, you can also make wooden window frames. Carved templates, photos of which can be seen a little below, allow you to decorate the window very beautifully.
  3. The tightening frame is made of strapping bars, which should be 5 mm thicker than the panels. The bars are planted and sanded, and then connected using spikes with lugs.
  4. When the frame is assembled, the panels are coated with glue and inserted into it. The leaves should be fixed on the plane until completely dry.
  5. On the sides of the shutters and platbands, it is necessary to hollow out the slots with a chisel for mounting the hinges. After inserting the locking elements, you can attach the shutters to the slopes. The flaps are leveled and then fixed in the hinge nests with screws.
  6. The final stage of work is the impregnation of wooden structures with linseed oil or another agent that prevents decay, and then coating them with varnish or paint.

Options for wooden windows We install a window frame in a house from a bar