How to build a house from a wooden bar. The sequence of construction of the house from the bar do it yourself. Type of foundation

Sirubami is called different kind of wooden structures, the walls of which are erected using specially prepared materials and the corresponding methods for connecting structural elements.

Usually, pre-processed logs are used to arrange a log cabin, but also for such a work, a wooden bar is well suited. It is economically beneficial, environmentally friendly, extremely easy to use and processing material.

The order of arrangement of a cut from a bar is quite simple. Houses, baths, garages and other buildings are erected by one technology. Check out the main features of the work, follow successively all scheduled events, and you will get a reliable, high-quality and durable log house from a bar.

The arrangement of a log of a bar will be considered on the example of the construction of an ordinary house. Recommendations will be given not only on the direct device of the walls, but also on the preparation and installation of other structural elements.

An independent performance will allow you to get invaluable experience and significantly save on holding all the events, eliminating the need to attract specialists.

Start by selecting a suitable material. The most important characteristics of the finished cut directly depend on the quality of the bar.

To fulfill the activities under consideration, it is best to use profiled glued or a dry wooden timber. A lot of time and money will not take a lot of time and money to arrange a log house from such a bar. Bruz gluing is performed using a special waterproof glue. It does not interfere with wood "breathe" and retains the indicators of its environmental friendliness at the highest level.

The budget option is to arrange a chub from a raw bar, but the walls of such material will require about 1 year to shrink. Only after a complete shrinkage of wood, it will be possible to move to the arrangement of roofing structures, installation of double-glazed windows and performing other related activities.

Project preparation

Make up (order, find outdoor) the project of the future building.

First of all, determine the optimal size of the house, its area, features of the organization of interior.

Reflect in the project location of doors and double-glazed windows, the order of arrangement of various communications and other important points.

Foundation arrangement

The loghouse from the bar will have a relatively small weight. The optimal option for the foundation for this kind of structures is a tape concrete base.

First step

Drop the trench around the perimeter of the future base. Trench depth - 80-100 cm. Specific value Pick in accordance with the indicator of the depth of the soil freezing for your region. Install formwork.

Second Step

Place a layer of sandy-gravel mix on the bottom of the trench. Thoroughly confuse the pillow.

Third Step

Over the pillow, put the reinforcing mesh from the rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. For bale rods, use steel wire.

Fourth Step

Fill concrete. Leyte a uniform horizontal layer. Plurred concrete construct with a special vibrating tool. Also, such a processing will eliminate excess air from concrete. In the absence of a special tool, push the fill with the reinforcement rod in several places. In the future, emptiness will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation will gain strength of 3-5 weeks. Formwork is recommended to dismantle only after complete hardening of the foundation.

Lower strand and floor

First step

Squeeze the bottom strapping. Pre-cover the foundation with waterproofing material (ruberoid).

External walls lay out from a bar 15x15 cm, and the inner partitions and floor beams from the material with a cross section of 10x5 cm.

Second Step

Project the laid crown with an antiseptic agent.

Third Step

Fourth Step

Secure the black floor boards on top of the lag. It is important that on both sides they were covered with thermal insulating material. For insulation you can use flowing materials or mineral wool.

Black floor lay 2,5x15 cm from boards.

Fifth Step

Place the chambers of the first floor. For this, the tank board is well suited.

Construction of walls

For bonding rows, use brazening - these are vertical wooden pins, which provide reliable bruises bond, prevent its displacement and breaking of the series.

With the help of one step, 2-3 crowns are usually performed. To perform such a bonding, it is necessary to pre-make the hole in the bar of the hole with a diameter of about 30-40 mm. The recommended step between the brazers is 150 cm.

Between the crowns, lay the sealing material, for example, the pass or jute.

The outer walls are best combined with the use of the lock, known as the "warm angle". The technology of such a compound is as follows: you create in one of the connected spike elements, and in the second timber, you make a groove of similar size.

Different layers of a wooden bar alternate spikes and grooves. Such a compound provides the highest rigidity of the structure, and the coaling angles are irreparable.

Internal partitions must be embedded into bearing walls. The arrangement of partitions are engaged exclusively after the complete completion of the construction of a church.

If you build a two-storey house with dimensions with more than 6x6 m, on the lower floor it is necessary to make at least one inner partition. It will perform the function of an additional support for the floor of the upper floor.

If you need to save on the implementation of building events, you can make internal partitions on frame technology. To do this, collect the frame from the bar 4x4 or 5x5 cm, and then simply cover it with a wooden clapboard or other suitable material.

All wooden structural elements are necessarily processed by antiseptic and antipiren.

At this stage you have to install beams, rafter elements and a crate in accordance with the peculiarities of the selected roofing design.

Set the walls of the attic room and lay ceiling lags. Place these items so that they approximately half the meters for the base of the outer walls.

Lugi make a bar 15x10 cm. Place them on the edge with a step of 900 mm.

To improve the rafting system, use the boards 15x5 cm. This design is a roof frame, so try to make it the most hard and durable. For additional hardening of the design, use racks, riglies, as well as discolutions.

Stropile feet are fixed with increments up to 1 m. After the frame will be fully prepared, proceed to layout the fronts. For their manufacture, use the timing of 15x15 cm. Also, the fronts can be made from siding, or pinch them with a 2,5x15 cm board.

At the end, see the cutter from the 2,5x15 cm boards shave with a step of up to 40 cm.

Fix the layers of moisture, heat and vapor barrier material, and then install the preferred finish roofing material.

Installation of doors and double-glazed windows

In places setting doors and windows, drink the opening of the corresponding sizes. The doors themselves and double-glazed windows can only be mounted after a complete shrinkage of wood.

By the way, you can also find out about the repair of double glazed windows on our website.

In conclusion, you will only have finishing work at your discretion, connect the necessary communications, arrange furniture, equipment and interior items.

Good job!

Video - log house from a bar do it yourself

I wanted to build a house. Immediately collided with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but the house wanted to get reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the proposals of the modern building market, I decided to stay on

On the forums they advise to build houses from the section 15x15 cm. But I had to build myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I did not want to attract third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter bar. Instead, it bought a dry material with a cross section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood gives a shrinkage, I will warm the wall outside the mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

In order to further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story for an example of manual and navigate the situation.

Pouring foundation

At first I cleared the platform for the house from garbage, bushes and other interfering things. After that, it began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time, what type of foundation is suitable specifically for my locality. He studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. This helped me a specialistic reference book. Additionally, I asked the neighbors, on what foundations of their houses.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions allow you to save on the arrangement of foundations, therefore most of the neighbors have a house on lungs from limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse to reinforce - such here we have a wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, "buming" it is not. Water passes deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need for the arrangement of blunt monolithic supports in my region.

Began to do with a trench. To begin with, removed a fertile ball. It seemed sand. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then laid out the trenches with a stone and paved two reinforcement rods. Tied them in the corners. I think the ribbon is best reinforced both below and at the top. So did.

To save yourself from excess work, it would be possible to order a ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region it turned out to be unreal - there is no such proposals. Yes, and I have such a plot that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don't need this.

Alas, so save it is not in every region. For example, if I live somewhere in the suburbs, I would have to make a formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the construction mixture.

While concrete is gaining strength (and it needs to be 3-4 weeks), I will deal with the preparation of consumables.

Prices for bar

Learn more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Proper billet

The connection of the crown of the bar is performed using wooden brazing. I decided to make them from screaming boards left from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of roofing crate.

For copiers, it should be used as hard as possible wood. The process of manufacturing fasteners is extremely simple. I took the cutting board and braided them on one side with the help of the appropriate saw.

Then I put emphasis and started sawing into size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful billets.

Spaws saw with a ribbon saw. At the exit, I got a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I pointed the blank with an ax on each side and got my brand.

Preparation of moss

Brazen, peat moss sphagnum and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of a bar, professionals are usually insulated with rolled materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - it is enough to roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, for the convenience and ease of processing you have to pay.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. First, this material is full of nature - go, but collect. Secondly, Moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally stated thematic forums: Moss is actively used as an interventory insulation, and there are no negative responses about it.

For insulation, a red or peat moss is best suited. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second after drying becomes fragile. If possible, it is best to use a red moss. You can find it easy - these are long stems with leaflets resembling a Christmas tree.

Production of Kosyakov

I do them for every door and window openings. For this I use a smooth bar. Suchkov, if possible, should not be in general. For more convenience, I made improvised workbench directly near the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal propuls. In this, the disk saw helped me. Excess material removed with the help of the chisel.

Make the right cant forces not even every professional at the carpenter. Therefore, shoals for windows I decided to make a simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a pair of vertical shoals. The horizontal connection will be answered directly the window block.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, I came up with how to simplify the task. Instead of sample (in the photo she is shaded) I decided to glue the bar. For this, the plane is in advance. The result was not worse than it would be in a situation with the use of a quarter.

Reduce the number of jambs in the doorway can not - all four are needed. However, the shape of products can be significantly simplified.

I chose in Bruke, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the deepening in the side shocks. This allowed me to put on the lower bar on the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to chop the eyes across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a disk saw, I prepared the propelles, pre-setting the appropriate disk output and making a parallel focus.

Then I took the first drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for copilyons. At the end, a smooth rectangle across wood fibers sawed. A saber saw helped in this.

Carpenters are usually done in the threshold two rectangular nests, and from the bottom of each vertical jamber, they are decorated with a response protrusion, firing and drinking excess wood with the help of the chisel. I decided to make holes, like for fasteners, and scored a pair of fasteners. Similar holes made at the bottom of the shoals.

The upper horizontal bar, I have not yet trottered, and a small board nailed to the threshold - it will take the "quarter" functions. The design of the opening was obtained extremely simple, however, it does not interfere with its main function. In the future, I put the opening and bow the "quarter".

Required tools

For the construction of a house from a wooden bar, I used the following tools and devices:

unstressed electric drill;
disk saw;
roulette;
sledgehammer;
electrolake;
corolnic;
saber saw;
plumb;
a hammer;
water hose;
ax.

For cutting a wooden bar bought a disk saw. I had to saw in two approaches. First, by the carbon died line, after which I cut, turned the bar and reversed again. On the second face of timber, the line is best transferred, too, with the use of the coal. If you are confident in your "charming", you can saw "on the eye".

Using the disk saw, I made spikes and recesses for the corner connections of BRUSEV. When arranging spikes, I lacked a small depth of propil, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

Build house

Line of the Lower Cross

Laying the starting crown is traditionally performed with a compound known as "in the floor of the tree". This node without any problems is made by disk saw - enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of the cut was insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which it got rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that connects with the help of nails.

Lower crown I put on the lining from the boards. Between the elements turned out to be gaps - in the future I will make a product there. In my region, they are usually in the wall, and not in a concrete basis. This option has its advantages. First, to do products in the wall easier and faster. Secondly, on some elevation, the wind moves with a greater speed than directly from the ground, so that the underground will be better ventilated.

Brous cutting. Connection "in Polterev"

On the lining, I'm going to mount the floor beams - as I think the load on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Lining and a lap of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid in the very bottom rotates faster. In my situation, there are lining down, and not a bar itself. In the future, if the boards are rotated, they can be replaced with much less effort than the Lower Cross.

Prices for saber saw

sabelnaya Pila

Features of laying the second and next crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I joined the timber with indigenous spikes - the usual adjoining of the elements here is unacceptable.

Taking a disk saw, steamed a pair of propilov. On the second face, the cut line was transferred with the help of a square. The indigenous spike is made easy, everything is demonstrated but in the photo. With insufficient disk output, the depth can be finished with hacksaw. The groove is still easier. Also demonstrated but in the photo.

Important remark! Consider that there should be approximately 0.5-centimeters in compounds of the type "spike groove" to lay a sealer. A compound in which wood simply concerns wood is unacceptable.

Previously, I set the depth of the depth. My saw can change the disk outlet without any problems - quite simply weaken the lever. Supplement is convenient in operation. If in traditional carpentry production, the wizard puts a parameter of the working tool and prepares the required number of one-type blanks, then the situation is somewhat different in a carpentry.

My drank is equipped with a thin disc - for cutting it has to make much less effort. Safety casing moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My home the walls will be longer than the bar, so I have to splicing the building material. To do this, I did from both ends of a long bar on drowned, I removed the deer with the help of the chisel and got a spike in the middle. The protrusion is ready, now you need a groove. Chop the wood by a chisel across the fibers - it is impractical. I went to the cunning and drilled a simple through hole in the second timber. The length of the drill was not enough to create a pass-through hole, so I had to drill on both sides. Next, I cut off the blank of excess wood, made the markup and cut the bar along the fibers using the chisel. Connected spliced \u200b\u200bbars. The gaps scored moss.

Helpful advice. In the wedge, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to fully make spikes with a saw, you will need to additionally dod blind by the chisel to the completion of the process. In the next photo you see bars already with fastening spikes. The patterns of opening thresholds for doors are demonstrated as templates.

Put the second crown on the lower, competently by performing angular articulations and the necessary splicing in length. It's time to make marking for the installation of napillates - connector of the crowns of my house built at home. I took the square and put the vertical labels on the bars below and at the top, in the places of the future placement of fasteners. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my bar. After drilled holes for fasteners and drove into them with a hammer.

What you need to know about the impudent?

By logic in a round hole, it would be necessary to drive the round heap. Builders adhere to other technology and use the square sections. Such fasteners and in the manufacture more simple, and the connection hold much more reliable. At the same time, short bellhead will not interfere with the process shrinkage process.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a hand drill with a stronger vertical hole. When installing a bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly sticking heater, the first will be a little staggering. To the bar firmly fixed, it must be additionally siege to the sledgehammer.

Used by me stoles work on the section and provide the right shrinkage even if there are insignificant deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the bar will give a shrinkage. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, what I will talk about.

Once I had to observe how the builders did in the wall of the hole of the hole with the help of a long drill and ripped round long brazening, externally similar to the cuttings from the shovel or robber. Were there vertical such holes? Naturally, no. Ultimately, the bar is not donkey, but as if "hung" on the impudent, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having stolen, I laid the trunk and moss on the crown. Pokclock laid across the bars. Moss simply threw on the pass. As a result of the panel hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to pure the walls. Moss will provide a decent insulation of the structure.

I installed the bars on the brazening, put the pass, sketched Moss, besieged the crown of a sledgehammer, but for some reason he still fears. This is due to the presence of gaps in angular compounds. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I tightly filled them with moss. This helped me a spatula and narrow metal strip.

Attentive reader will ask: But what about the panel? Do not need to lay in corners and her? There is no need. First, as I said earlier, MOH is a very good natural antiseptic. My home will still stand for a long time without any finish finish, and the sediment moisture will continue to drain along the corners. Moss will not give wood to dig in these places. Secondly, in the future, the timber in the corners will have to be compatible. Moss will not interfere with this. Pacle can lead to a breakdown of the plane.

Prices for passion

Now my corners are strong, insulated and unproduced. At the end of the day I covered the angular compounds in order to protect them from possible atmospheric precipitation.

In the picture you see that one bar is located above, than the other. But they must be at the same altitude. We are not in a hurry to immediately include electricians - with such a problem it is quite possible to cope with the help of simple sledgehamps.

I worked at the wrong plane, when I became clearly visible to interference with the installation of the next crown. By the Rubankov, I compared small "screws" and "Pumps". More substantial differences in height compensated with the help of packle and moss - on their arrangement goes much less time than on the processing of wood by the plane.

What should we build a house!

With the basic principles of laying each crown, you have already become familiarized. There are important nuances. First, the crowns should be laid with alternating angular compounds. Secondly, the inner bearing wall of the house should be associated with a longitudinal wall. It is done through one crown. For binding I use a proven and familiar compound. Only here are the holes for brazen, I will drive the "chess" in relation to the lower crowns. After that, laying the pass and moss, and by placing each bar in the place intended for it, weaving compounds in the corners.

That is, the order of construction of the house is extremely simple:

i lay the next crown;
i make markup for coppins;
drill holes;
i drive the wooden fasteners;
laying the pass, I throw moss on it;
i repeat the sequence.

By the length of the bars with a mixture of the "Vravdka" method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (I have this seventh crown), I made a markup to arrange window openings. The width of each opening calculated by adding the size of the shoals and sealing gaps to the width of the purchased window block. On each side of the opening should be in a pair of gaps - between the jammer and the installed window block, as well as between the jacket and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the necessary width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, pre-enhancing the spikes in brushes, similar to the stage with doorways for doors.

The following crowns with the window opening laid out of bars without spikes, observing the same dimensions.

All window openings, I set up from the "short", which was absolutely violated in the process of shrinkage of the bar - for the walls such a material will not fit, and sorry to throw out. The jumpers did not. Highlighting the opening, he constantly checked his evenness with a plumb. Walls also checked.

Separate stench, I temporarily brought up with the help of the REC, so that in the process of work it did not fall. T-shaped design, as well as an angle in additional strengthening do not need - they are perfectly held in their own weight.

Important remark! In places of arrangement of spikes, the opening and the line was propyl, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not put the pass, because When picking, it would be wound on the cutting disk. In the future, the package without any problems is covered with the ends.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it should be temporarily put without fastening and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for spikes. They put on the jamb. Having placed the saw dial to the required depth, installed a parallel focus to withstand the desired deposit from the edge. Much time for such work I did not go. I could not cut the bar for the desired depth of the circular - I had to finish with a hacksaw.

In the lower wedge of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. In the last crown, this did not do this - in the future, the spikes would still have to create in each bar.

At the personal experience, I was convinced that the assembly of the entire height of the opening for the window without communication, while from the wrong "short", the task is not the simplest.

Lightweight and short trimming can be used to decay or spike. It may well be that on the bar, deviating to the left, will lay a bar with deviation to the right. As a result, a smooth wall will be built. If both bars will have a deviation in one direction, you can not count on the flat wall.

To eliminate deviations, it is possible to comprising "screws" with the plane, or lay the ladder bar. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using the plane. At each stage, the verticality of the extravagated openings was checked with a plumb.

Installation of jambs and completion of work

The upper crown laid. It is time to mount the shoals of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished design will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full spike. On the upper bars there are contrections in the required places. I apply the guide, I exhibit the desired cut depth and I do a disk saw. After that, I spend a couple of lines from the ends of the sizes of the spike and get rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel.

Spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. Clauses I fill thermally insulated M material. If you wish, you can make spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing at home, cut down the extra material and fill the gaps with the seal.

Inserted temporary struts between jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you plan to make an extension, do not lay the upper crown of the bar before it starts. I also mounted a crown less.

Box ready. I covered it the temporary roof, closed each opening and left the house until the next season. The bar just will have time to give shrinkage. After that, I will continue what I will definitely tell you in my next story.

Instead of imprisonment

While the house gives a shrinkage, I decided to sum up. First, it was pleased that the foundation had to spend much less money if compared with the supports of other types. A little money went to the stone dump truck. Sand in my region is also very much - you can go on myself and bring. Most money went to cement and fittings.

Secondly, pleased with the available cost and relatively small consumption of building material. When the bar was brought, I posted it in a stack of approximately meter height and a two-meter width. At first it seemed that I was silent somewhere and I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 BRUSEV remained unfounded. In general, on the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (it accounts for a brusade in it 6x7.5 m) I spent about 7.5 m3 of the bar with a cross section 15x10 cm. 15x15 cm will spend money for 1.5 more. Yes, and additional labor would have to hire, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Magged did it myself, moss is free. I would gladly gave me friends after the end of our construction events.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized bathrooms and expensive tools. All I used for construction, I will be useful to the farm in the future. Especially happy to acquire a good disk saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of performance. I did not have a special experience of construction from the bar. As practice has shown, over the whole day, working in one hands and, subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can get it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not need to own any special skills. And I personally convinced this.

I hope my story will be useful to you, and you can, as well as I realize my dream about my own home.

Video - a house from a bar do it yourself

Since ancient times, residential houses from wood are considered the most warm. They create a special microclimate favorable for man. The additional advantage of such buildings is their naturalness and environmental purity. Of course, the construction of the house from the log is the case, which is only the master. But today there are many other materials from wood, which are quickly and easily mounted. So, for example, you can easily build houses from the bar with your own hands. In our article, we gradually describe how to build such a house, as well as we will tell about the intricacies of the construction of the house from the bar - the editing process is attached.

general information

Brusade house is a beautiful structure with optimal microclimate and humidity inside, which are achieved due to the fact that the tree has a special structure that ensures air microcirculation in the walls. Wooden houses are good because in the summer they are almost not hot in them, and in the winter they beautifully retain heat.

You can line the wooden house from several types of timber:

The glued timber is an element that consists of separate glued lamellas from wood conifers.
The profiled timber is made from wood array.
Normal timber.

The first two products have grooves for dense hermetic fixation of adjacent elements. Also elements may vary with humidity:

Dry material after chamber drying is much better and gives a smaller shrinkage.
Wood natural humidity is subject to drying, deformations and cracking.

Important: glued and profiled timber is very popular. Products may have a square or rectangular cross section. And the spike-groove system facilitates laying.

That is why the construction of houses from the bar is most often leading with the use of one of these two materials, because you can build such a house with your own hands. In addition, the house built from this material does not need outdoor and interior decoration. Building a house from a bar is performed quickly and easily due to the presence of a factory scheme, and the typical projects of such buildings are easy to find on the network. So that you have an idea how to properly build a house from a bar, we offer a detailed video footage.

Foundation

Building a house from a bar with their own hands should begin with the construction of the foundation. Since the construction of wood has a small weight, you can lay a lightweight foundation. So, you can choose the following types of base:

If the house will be built with a basement or cellar, then it is better to use a monolithic ribbon foundation. To build without a basement, it is better to perform a fine-gulled tape.
You can also build a house from a bar on a pile-screw base with painter. This type of construction is more suitable for wet, loose and or or soils.
Sometimes the base is used as a base. Poles are made from concrete blocks and install them with 1.5 m increments.
In some cases, the optimal option will be a monolithic slab foundation. In this case, you do not need to spend money on the flooring.

Since the ribbon foundation is most often used, consider the sequence of its execution in detail:

First of all, the preparation of the site and markup of the future structure is performed.
Next, under all the outer and inner carriding walls, a trench of 10 cm width is digging more than the thickness of the walls.
At the bottom of the trench, a sand-gravel pillow is a height of 15 cm. Sand is wetted with water and trambed.
Installation of wooden formwork is performed.
After that, fills the concrete with a layer of 5 cm high.
The formwork establishes the reinforcement frame so that it does not approach the very formwork of the structure more than 5 cm.
A concrete solution is poured and tram.
In the process of frozen, the concrete is moisturized with water and covered with a film.
After 28 days, you can start the wall mounting.

Installation of walls and floor

You can easily understand how to build a house from a bar with your own hands, with our step-by-step leadership. Before laying the first row of Bruusyev, it is necessary to perform horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. For this, its surface is covered with two layers of rubberoid on bitumen mastic.

You can make your home from a bar with a thickness of 150 mm, if the construction is carried out in the warm regions of our country. Otherwise, it is better to take a timing of 200 mm thick. Under the first crown, it is necessary to tempt a lining board with a thickness of 50 mm. It is better to use a larch wood board.

Important: Lining board and the first crown before laying are processed with antipirens and antiseptics.

Regardless of the method of laying the rest of the crowns, the first crown is mounted in Polderv. In this case, the angular connection can be performed in Poledev, with the help of a native spike, which is.
After mounting the first and second crown, it is embarked in the installation of lag for floor arrangement. If the base of the house allows, then the lags can be put on it. Otherwise, they are crashed into the first crown. Step Lag 40-70 cm. The more step, the greater the thickness of the draft floor (25-40 mm).
Then the cranial bars are attached to the lags on the sides, which are stacked by the rolls.
Then follows the waterproofing layer. She must go back and the lags themselves.
After that, the thermal insulation material is placed in the lumets between lags on the boards and waterproofing.
After that, the whole design is covered with a layer of vaporizolation.
Installation of the draft floor is performed.

Nuances of wall mounting:

Laying the next crown is performed after a tape insulation, a pacle, waiting or flax, is laid on the surface of the previous element. The insulation is fixed by the stapler.
Bursts are bonded with wooden bellows. To do this, with a step of 1.5 m holes in the bars: the upper bar is drilled through, and the lower - half. The holes are driven out of the hole and completely interferes with 1 cm deep.
In the process of laying a bar in places of window and doorways, temporary supports are set. They are made from the unedged board on the size of the openings.
Installation of internal partitions is performed only after the construction of the box. They are crashed into capital walls.

If the house is the second floor, build a house from a bar with your own hands in such a sequence:

After performing the walls of the first floor in the last crown, we make a slot to laying overlapping beams. Additionally, fix the beams using steel corners. Step 70 cm beam.
Flooring the rough floor.
Bottom beams with clapboard. So we will get the first floor ceiling.
Further we carry out the installation of walls is similar to the first floor.

The construction of the roof of the house

Even if the houses from the bar are building a seasonal residence, the roof mounting process should pay maximum attention. Most often in wooden houses make duplex or broken roofs. If you choose a batch option, you can equip a comfortable attic that can perform the functions of the residential premises.

As Mauerlat will be used the last crown. Installation of the roof is carried out in such a sequence:

The easiest way to collect pairs of rafter feet on Earth. By connecting them with tightenings, we get a hard design, like a farm that can be easily installed on the roof.
First, we set two extreme pairs of rafting legs. That is, we will get two fronton.
Next, we connect their skate timber.
Now you can perform the installation of all subsequent rafting steam. Their step is taken equal to 90 cm.
On the surface of the rafter spread vapor barrier. It is fettered by its stapler and additionally fix the control of the rails that are pounding on the rafyled.
Alternatively, the direction of laying counter rails are stuffed. The pitch is 40 cm. If the coating is from a soft roll material, we carry out a solid inches from the OSP.
Now you can go to laying the selected roofing.

From the inside the roof must be thoroughly insulated. To do this, in the lumets between lags lay thermal insulation material (Minvatu). On the bottom, the entire design is closed by a vaporizolation membrane. Now you can apply the cape of the attic clapboard.

Further work

If the house was erected from the glued bar, then to the installation of windows and doors, as well as the finish can be started immediately. When installing from other materials, it is necessary to wait 3-6 months, during which the house will give a shrinkage, and only after that proceed to further work.

After shrinkage, all the gaps and cracks, formed on the walls, need to be made of mastic or corporate. Now you can start installing window frames and door blocks. There is no need to finish in the house from the profiled and glued bar, since the walls and so look beautiful. If the walls are from the usual timber, they should be polished, paint or covered with varnish. The outer surface of the walls of the house from a regular bar also needs to finish. It can be performed from different building materials - lining, vinyl siding, bricks, etc.

Care

So that the house from the bar served as long as possible, after it needs to be careful:

Once in 3-4 years, the protective coating of wood needs to be renewed.
To avoid highlighting the walls, it is necessary to monitor the state of the foundation. It should not be flooded with surface and groundwater.

Brous house with their own hands - Video:

Guide and step-by-step instructions for the construction of a house or a Russian bath from a bar do it.

How much is the house build?

From this issue, a new gardening and garden life begins for many Russians. After the newly minted landowner receives a plot of land, he will surely face a difficult economic situation in our country.

Interesting offers of many construction companies - to build any turnkey construction, can conflict with the family budget. Even if you refuse architectural sophistication, the construction of the house will be expensive.

Often, the costs that will be directly used will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will rest in a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work is equal. Therefore, it is better to build a house yourself.
The most important difficulty in independent construction of the house is the ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their execution.

How to build a house from a bar?

Better to build a wooden house. After all, the structures of the tree are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work. In the houses of a tree excellent microclimate.
Then you can go in two ways. The first is to collect money and acquire the entire set of building materials at once. This set includes

timber for ceilings and floors,
bar for chub,
edged and unedged boards
window and door blocks, etc.
insulation of flax or jute,
roof material
parchment,
glass,
ruberoid, G.
reed, brackets, palable, etc.

The second way is the acquisition of all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.

It is better to go first, so it will result in cheaper. In addition, many firms when buying a complete set of building materials deliver them directly to the site for free.

It is necessary to trace the dimensions of the timber, one of the most important components of the future at home, were no less than 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move from these parameters.

Where to start building a house?

First of all, you need to go to the plot, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there is no roads yet), determine the binding of the future home to the area, the type of soil. The place where the garden house will be built is determined according to the plan for breaking the entire territory into separate sections. The position of the house must be coordinated with the board of the country partnership.

First of all, you need to draw a site plan on a specific scale on a sheet of paper, when specifying the specific sizes and indicating the place on it, which will be assigned to the house. You need to assure this plan in the direction of printing or signing a responsible person.

Work on the site should begin with the cutting of a shrub, mowing grass, pnenet's cortex and cutting the bumps on the territory of the future construction site. For these works, you need to have an ax, a shovel, braid, hand winch, scrap and a sledgehammer. For cleaning the stumps it is better to use a sledgehammer.
After cleaning the site, you can go to another stage.

First you need to determine the type of foundation. It is better to choose a ribbon foundation, since using it from a homogeneous material, you can get a complete warm solid foundation with the lowest labor costs. And then it is not necessary to make additional work on the manufacture and installation of borrowings and jumpers. A simplified method of axes markup should be applied without using pickups. After all, the pickup is very preventing the foundation trench.

During the digging of the foundation, you need to remove the soil, which is removed, otherwise it will interfere with construction. The fertile layer should be put in a separate pile, it can come in handy in garden matters. A very fundamental factor is the depth to which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will affect groundwater running, the type of soil and the depth of the freezing.

The best small-breeding foundation with a frighting sand of the Trench bottom. To do this, the trench always flooded with the sand with layers of 25 cm, faded and watered with water. Before pouring concrete, put the reinforcement on the sandy pillow. There must be no less than two rods of reinforcement.

As fittings, you can take the broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting luminous pillars. Sledge hammer can be split concrete around the reinforcement of the pillar. There are enough two poles. From one, 8-10 reinforcement rods can be produced, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend along the corners. For this you can use two railway crutches. To score them with ridges to each other in a stump, a bar or a log so that the reinforcement rod is between them. Ponds that are put should not go for less than 20 cm each other. In order for the pouring of the concrete, they did not disperse, in the place of overhearsow the ends of the rods are better to tie with wire.

In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, it is necessary to put the stones under the rods, slices of bricks, rubbank so that the reinforcement rods are raised above the sand is not less than 5 cm. If not to put the rods, they can be suspended. The crossbar overlaps the top of the trench and the fittings are suspended. Then the trench is filled with concrete. It is better to buy a ready-made concrete, cook it is manually very laborious.

Pouring foundation

The foundation is better poured as follows. Through the foundation axes in an unknowing concrete, metal bars are inserted, the length of which is 40 cm. At a depth of 20 cm. These rods are immersed in the base of the foundation. The remaining 20 cm form basement base. In the corners of the foundation, the rods are inserted, and then 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will contact one entire base with the basement, and will serve as the basis for fastening the blocking shields.

In warm weather, the surface of fresh concrete needs to be protected with moss, grass, sawdust and moisten with water, or just cover the rubberoid. Then it is necessary to make formwork shields. To do this, it is better to apply edged boards whose thickness is 40 mm. Shields will be without crackling, the surface of the base does not require plaster. For savings, you can use unedged boards.

After the workpiece of the boards, you need to dial the shields of the length and height that match the plan. When the length of the shields in the original size is the thickness of the base and the distance between its axial lines.

On gaskets laid down on Earth, shields are collected in such a way that their smooth side is addressed inside the base. Applying ordinary clink complications, the boards are pressed tightly to each other. Nails to shields are nailed with lining, which are arranged at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. Shields in height must be 10 cm above the fill level of concrete.

In any foundation, the base at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground should have ventilation windows. They must be against each other on different sides of the base. To create the windows you need to put asbestos-cement pipes in the formwork, tightly adjacent to the shields so that concrete does not flood

Installation of shields starts with an internal circuit. Before that, the pins are wedging the pieces of wire with the calculation so that two sides of the pins were free ends of the wire, the length of which is at least 20 cm.
First set shields with locks. They are temporarily fixed.
Then they are substituted with shields, the edges of which are based on the castles. Ends of shields are attached nails to castles.
Internal contour shields bonded between themselves are set relative to the axes of the foundation, and the diagonal is checked in the corners.
The upper and lower spacers are nailed, which determine the width of the base.
The next circuit shields are attached, their middle are combined with certain labels on the foundation.
Nails are forgotten into the upper and lower spacers. Shields are knocked off. It is checked, whether the installations of the shields are symmetrical about the axial lines of the base, and the diagonals are measured by outer angles.
Then we reject up the nails, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the base axes.
In the upper part of the base on the struts, it is convenient to place the bar of the fittings of the base. Then the upper part of the base of the base is bonded by tie. Prothesies of reinforcement are stacked and tied with wire.
In such a simple way, a rigid construction was obtained, which is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before pouring the formwork with concrete, you need to designate the top line of the fill on the shields. From the most elevated corner on the ground begins the markup of the level of the horizon of the base. 1-1.5 meters from the source point, marks are applied and nails are driven through them through it. The height of the base will be shown the ends of nails. They also when pouring the base will be control marks.

To create an ideal surface, you must apply marks and constantly hydromens control the horizon. With hot weather, a flooded base should be protected. About 2-3 days need to withstand concrete in the formwork. In the process of building a house, it will type the necessary strength.

Unloading building materials

If during the construction of the house the whole set of building materials was ordered, then we need to think about it in advance where to unload them.
First with the car you need to remove window and door blocks. Other materials are better to faced back, decomposing the unedged boards before the ground.

After the materials are unloaded, it is necessary to immediately explore them by type, and lay out on the places defined in advance.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of the house is in the corner between the border of the plot and the road.

In this regard, building materials must be stacked as follows: against two walls of the base. It is desirable that the distance from the stack to the foundation is at least 3 meters. In order to prevent the bars and deflection of BRUSEV, you need to lay them on smooth gaskets, laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as pads. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is stacked in the cage: one row is placed along, the other is across.

Boards are stacked on lining from bouts. There is a gap between the boards so that the stack of "breathed". Each new row of boards need to be moved by gaskets. It is necessary that the board with the plane plane is drawn down. Unedged boards should be drawn a wide part.

All stacks should be lifted over ground no less than 20-30 cm.
When all the material is sorted and laid, it will be necessary to cover it from atmospheric precipitations to rubkeroid. Important detail: On any lumber, it is necessary to immediately remove the remains of the bark.
Approximate calculation of "related" materials for the construction of the house 6x6:
- 50 pieces of bracket;
- 2 bale packles;
- nails: 200 mm - 16 kg, 150 mm - 8 kg, 120 mm - 6 kg, 100 mm - 20 kg, 70 mm - 10 kg;
- 7 kg of slate nails;
- nails for outdoor and internal sheat;
- 3 rolls 15 m pergamine for ceiling and frontion;
- 12 rolls 15 m front of the regteroid on the base, on the black floor and on the roof.

Paul and Walls Houses from Bruus

Now it's time to put the first crown.
Before laying down the bottom strapping, you need to send two layers of rubberoid on the entire perimeter. To do this, the runner lane is driving along and stacked on the base.

For the strapping, smooth bars are selected without cracks, rearings and signs of rot. In order for the gap between the bars, the water should be removed the chams 10x10 mm on the upper edges. The pairing of bars in the corners is better to carry out with a spike and groove. The sizes of the spike must be 4x4 cm, and the size of the groove is 5 mm larger than spike sizes.

With the help of rectangular or round beaches and 200 mm nails of bars dock into the vertical plane.
Curlinate bars are better to cut into small segments and lay in window and doorways.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the antiseptic processing of the first crown bars. Pre-heated oil need to lubricate the inner and lower sides of the bars, leaving the ends clean. Processed bars strapping are stacked on the base and fasten with the brackets.

After that, you need to immediately lay out sex lags. The bars can be used as a lag, which are stacked through 1 m. If the width of the base allows, the ends of the lag are stacked on it. If it does not allow, then the rugs are made in the strapping, and the ends of the lag are inserted there.

With large spans, the lags are stacked on brick or concrete column columns that are 50 cm in soil. The main requirement is the position of the lag should be horizontal and the upper layers should be a single plane. For temporary flooring on the lags the unedged boards are stacked.
Then you can begin the construction of walls.

The whole bar from which the house is built is the same length. But in the walls there are window and doorways, so it may be needed smaller bars. From one large bar can get 3-4 smaller bars.
Brux harvested on 2-3 crowns. A homogeneous smooth layer of packle is put on the lower crown, its thickness should be 1 cm. From both sides of a bar on 5-6 packs. The second crown is laid on the pass. Then there is a pacle again, etc. The bars of the new crown are connected by nails with bars below and overlying the crowns. The first nails from the house corner are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Then nails are driven after 1.5 m.

Window blocks every 2-3 crowns are fasten with the bars of the wall with nails.
If there is no window block, but you need to collect a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the chub thickness. With the help of these boards in the vertical plane, the bars of the opening are fixed and fastened.

In this case, nails are clogged through these boards in the ends of the bar. When erecting walls of the house, it is important to control the verticality of the angles and the horizontal walls. Brussia needs to be fastened in the corners so that they do not come out.

A very responsible moment occurs during the laying of bars over the door and window blocks. To not hold them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is 1/20 from the entire height of the cut.
Next you need to install forests. They are a flooring, which rises by 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the base and cut. The forests are very important. It must withstand a minimum of three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.

For the manufacture of forests, any timber can be used - bars, a hill, roundabouts, edged and unedged boards. If the forest flooring begins, you need to make it double. Laying of timber can be completed when the height between the floor and the ceiling will become at least 2.4 meters. The last crown is needed to be well checked by high-altitude marks and diagonal and copper in the corners of the brackets. Now the walls are ready.

Roof

There are many different types of roofs: single, duplex, hip, tents, crosses, etc. But in the country's summer construction, the most common lows of roofs are most common. Because of its simplicity and technological installation, they became very popular. Also these roofs will allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.

The roof is based on a reliable overlap. It should consist of ceiling beams that are parallel to the facade. For a span of 6 meters, it is necessary to use beams, whose cross section is at least 150x150 mm. You can maintain the beams of overlapping using the overhaul.

Between the beams of the overlapping distance should not be more than 1 m. Upon the upper strapping of the cut, you need to place the places where you need to put the beams of overlapping. Using the hydraulic level, you need to achieve a common plane and strict horizontal. All irregularities that are discarded must be accurately rushing with an ax.

It is necessary that the length of the ceiling beams exceeded the width of the cut into two cornices.
Overlapping beams can be increasing using 50x150 mm boards segments. At both ends of the beams, it is necessary to cut quarters with a length of 1 m, in them insert the extensions, connecting them with nails of 150 mm with bars. Then on the extensions for the convenience of installation, the inserts are made in a depth of 3-5 cm.

Prepared beams rise to the upper cutting of the cut and stacked on the places on the passage and are nailed with nails 200 mm. Inserts inserted between beams. With the help of them, you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. Inserts are nailed to the beam and to the strapping of 200 mm nails. The finished overlap is covered with unedged boards.

In order to correctly determine the roof proportions, you can make a pattern. It can be made on the ground from the edged board. It is better to make a template in full size. So, using the template you can determine which kindergarten roof is required to build.

The next stage is the installation of the mandrel mock. It can be made by a transverse and longitudinal way. In both cases, the assembly is made at the overlap. In the case of a transverse method, the frame profile is collected from the P-shaped tightening and 2 racks and is installed on the desired ceiling beam overlap at home. The installed P-shaped elements are connected by runs between themselves.

The planes of the walls and the attitude of the attic is difficult to achieve as a curvature of the barus ceiling floors is possible. Therefore, it is better to use a longitudinal module.

To use this method, it is necessary to free from temporary flooring the right side of the overlap. The stands are stacked on the ceiling beams and the top run is attached to them. Then the racks are fixed. The frame of the frame needs to be lifted without jerks, in the initial moment of the rise you need to put under the rogle of the bars. After checking the verticality of the stands on a plumb, fix them with disclosures.

In order to facilitate installation, intermediate racks are installed under the runs that are already raised. The same operations need to be repeated on the other side. After the rings with runs are raised and fastened, you need to tie them with the help of mansard beams - overlapping screeds.
When the attic beams will be laid and fastened with rings with nails, you need to put the unedged boards on them.

The lining, skate rafters collected on the pattern, the rigels are mounted on the screeds and are attached nails. The installation begins with the fronts, and then intermediate skate rafters are set.
Now the macarcas of the attic is built.

Roofing house

This is a very responsible work that requires skills, knowledge, skills.
You need to start with the preparation of fronts. Such preparation consists in the installation of two transverse and two vertical boards, the cross section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontally vertical position is checked and is fixed with nails.

Next, the frontton is needed to tighten with a pergamine. It will be protected from moisture and will protect the house from drafts. Parchment strips It is advisable to have a mustache and horizontally, and attach it to racks with small nails or bevel buttons. Typically, the frontton is trimmed by a surge. Better the lower part of the front is horizontally, and the upper vertically. This method is technological and very economical.

First, the vertical upper part is sewn. It is necessary to closely monitor the boards to be vertically, and in the groove it was a tight fit. You can fill in a reagine, and then its ends that protrude above the rafters, cut the knife.

It is important to nourish the creation of a drain board. It must be selected to nail with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical part of the trim. When stitching the top of the front, you need to remember that the reagent must always be a groove down. It is also necessary to constantly control the horizontality.

Roof lamp

We can say that this work is simple, but she has its own characteristics. First, it is necessary that the idle is beyond the limits of the dimensions of the house. Such a protrusion should be done to protect from the front of the structure from entering the storm water. Most often, the ot of 50-70 cm is made. If there is a rubberoid in the house, the sink does not play a special role.

If the roof is slate, then the magnitude of the overclocking eaves must be accurately defined in accordance with the total length of the crate. This can be done using a very simple way. You need to lay out on Earth for the entire estimated width of the roof parallel to two boards. They need to be placed slate with the desired overlap in a whole wave or half-wave.

Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid out of the row and the crate is divided into two parts and the required width of the sink is obtained.
After the sink values \u200b\u200bwere determined, two boards are nailed for each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice must match the departure of each board. Then it is nailed on the board to the ends of these protrusions.

Natural limiters are obtained for intermediate shelling boards.
The lamp can be made of unedged boards if they are embalted by overview. Between the boards there should be a gap of 5 cm. During laying boards alternate a commute part with a vertex. At the bottom and top of the rafter, it is worth nailing edged boards.

After the doom is ready, you should immediately sneak the eaves of the frontoths. This is a very time-consuming business that requires certain skills, because it is necessary to work in hard-to-reach places and at high altitude. Correspond's sewn can immediately shields that are calm and easily manufactured on Earth. After they are made, it will only be left to raise them onto the roof and make it easier for placing overlays between the shellboards.

If it is necessary, then you can close the shake of the shield with the fronton boards. Top boards should be knocked off the shields.
Then there is a roof. At the initial stage of construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of rubberoid. Rolls need to raise onto the roof and roll out perpendicular to the skate. It is necessary that each next line of rubberoid can go to another strip at least 10-15 cm.

The first layer of the runneroid can be attached by the buttons, and the second - the slats from the tree, which can be treated with paint, olifoy, machine oil or antiseptic. The roof covered with rubberoid is better to close the galvanized iron sheet of the skate.

The ends of the rubberoid, which hang, need to fasten well.
Now the house under the roof. Further internal works will be carried out. This is the most pleasant stage in the construction of the house.

Interior finishing works

This construction stage should be started with black floor packing. First you need to fill the skull bars along the lower edges of the lag. And then to nourish them blackboard. This flooring is covered with a layer of rubberoid and the insulation is put on top of it. As a insulation, you can use mineral wool or clay. Through the insulation you need to send pergamine.

Clean floor boards are put on the lobes of the front side, while nails are not clogged to the end. A year later, it will be necessary to pull the nails, and turn the boards and disappear completely.
When the ceiling firmware, you need to decide where to leave the opening on the attic floor.

After the ceiling fell down, you need to move to the second floor. There, pergamine is rawd on the ceiling boards, the insulation is put on, then parchment again and the germ boards are nailed.
After that, the attitude of the attitude of the attic.

At the interior stage, door and window blocks are exhibited and fixed. They are fixed by wedges in the openings. The displayed blocks with fire walls are sealed with nails 100-120 mm. A package, parts that act, cut off the gaps. The slot between the wall and the block is closed by platbands. The door block threshold should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.

When fastening the window blocks, inclined eaves should be killed over the upper platband, and the plums must be installed on the bottom board.
You need to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. According to the design, the simplest staircase is the simplest.

It rests on the bottom of the floor, and the upper part is on the wall of the mansard opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, materials are harvested for the taper, railings and steps. For the manufacture of the taper is better to purchase lumber with a cross section of 60x200 mm.
For steps it is necessary to pick a dry material, a thickness of at least 50 mm. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length should be identical.

The steps are stacked on the bars with a cross section of 5x5 cm and are attached to nails 100 mm to the growths. The places of fitting the stairs to the attic and to the floor are determined. Duties are made, and the necessary workpiece is obtained, which fits tightly to the wall and the floor.

On this workpiece, the second string is peaked. Both theettes are combined, and the labels of future steps on the outer edges are applied. For these labels, bars are nailed, and then the steps. Steps on the outside of the theetics are nails with decorative hats.

All photos from the article

We invite you to consider step-by-step management - how to build a house from a bar with one type or another of the foundation and a double roof. Immediately it should be said that we will not go into the smallest details, since this material is designed for a reader who knows how to keep any tool in his hands. About this below the text, and you are also waiting for the display of the thematic video in this article.

Stages of construction

Note. Do not forget that the longest bar has only 6m in length, and if you plan, for example, a 7 × 8m house, then you will have to dock on the ranks that complicates the installation.

Types of foundations used for wooden houses

Construction method:

the pillar itself is usually a masonry of brick or concrete blocks, a height of 40-50 cm, which mainly depends on the slope in this area;
for masonry, a fossa is made, a depth of 20-25 cm and a width of 40-50 cmThe sand pillow is falling asleep there, and then concrete solution is poured. This pillow can be adjusted by the pillar's height - simply adding or removing some amount of concrete mix;
the distance between the reference points should be no more than 2mIn addition, they should be on every corner and on every junction.

Construction method:

by the location of the points of the support, the instruction here is the same as in the case of a column foundation - a distance of at least 2m, plus supports on each corner and on each compound;
for the construction of such a base, metal or asbestos-cement pipes are taken at least 20 cm in diameter and roll it into the ground by 40-50 cm, obtaining a casing pipe;
then the pipe is poured concrete and reinforced, although it is an optional condition for steel elements.

Construction method:

if the construction of a brusade house is done with their own hands on a pile-screw foundation, the number of screw piles will be exactly the same as the amount of stamps or pillars;
such a pile just screws into the ground with the help of the lever to any depth, although it is still to cut up too much;
such a foundation is very convenient for sites from a large steepness slope - it simply compensates for it.

Construction method:

ribbon foundations can be monolithic, that is, filled into a trench or formwork with the reinforcement frame, or teams - collected from bricks, stone or blocks;
the tape depth depends on the state of the soil and weight of the superior construction - they are swallowed and low-boiled;
outflowed bases are used on bubbly soils, and it must be below the soil freezing point by 40-50 cm;
such foundations are considered the most good for buildings of any type, although it is not always appropriate, as you can do without cheaper versions.

A little bit about the bar

The timber has not only a different cross section and length, but also by the type of profile - it can be profiled (have grooves for the longitudinal connection). The percentage of the drawing of the architectural structure will depend on the humidity - it can be wet and dried.

Another material varies in the type of manufacturing - it is made from the wood array or glue from the lamellae (the price is strongly changing). Profiles can be made from different breeds of wood, where the most valuable is the Siberian larch, and the Ural spruce goes after it.

All these nuances must be taken into account when designing a house. The fact is that the docking in a smooth fugu requires a sealing laying (jut or linen ribbon) and impudent for fixation.

In addition, it is very important to provide communication channels, such as water supply, sewage, heating, electrification and communications. It is desirable that all "wet" rooms of the type of bath, toilet, the kitchen turned out to be near - it will make it easier for the channels of the channels.

Construction boxes

It all starts with the installation of the strapping, which is installed on the foundation of any type, pre-underlay cut-off waterproofing. When we build a house from a bar with our own hands, then it is to the lower crown that the greatest moisture load accounts for the lower crown.

That is why it can additionally put a wedding board from a larch with a thickness of 50 mm. Or the board or lower crown must necessarily be impregnated with an antiseptic that an order of magnitude increases its operational period.

But let's deal with what benefit is the wedding board? Sooner or later, the bottom will be raised and no drugs will be helped in this, which are treated with wood. But after all, replace the board is much easier and cheaper than the whole crown!