The construction of a private house is a long process, requiring a large investment of time, labor and finances. Many, in an effort to save money, decide to carry out part of the work on their own. How to make floors in private houses without resorting to the services of builders? Making the floor yourself is quite realistic if you have necessary materials, tools and knowledge.

Which floor design to choose?

Before proceeding with the construction of floors in a private house, it is necessary to determine the type of construction of the future coating. Experts distinguish three types of structures:

• Single;
• Double;
• Concrete floor.

The choice of one or another type of construction depends on the characteristics of the building in which the floor is laid. The determining factor can be recognized as the operating conditions of a private house. The single floor is the most simple design, the construction of such a floor does not take a lot of time and materials, since the floorboards are fastened with nails directly to the logs. The main disadvantage of a single plank floor is its limited use: such a coating would be appropriate only in small summer houses and at cottages. For the house where it is planned year-round living, single design is not suitable.

Scheme of the possible implementation of the "double" floor and concrete.

If you want to do private house, suitable for living at any time of the year, then you will have to deal with the arrangement of a double floor. This type of construction is warmer, reduces heat loss and ensures comfortable living in the house during the cold season. The double floor consists of several layers, the main of which are the rough and finish coatings. Between these two layers, hydro- and heat-insulating materials are additionally laid, protecting both the floor itself and the entire house from destruction.

Most often, the rough coating in a private house is collected from unedged board, and the finishing floor is made of grooved floorboards. All work, including the laying of thermal insulation from sawdust or expanded clay, can be easily done with your own hands.

Subfloor boards.

The third possible type of floor construction in a private house is a poured concrete screed. Compliance with all the rules for preparatory work, laying waterproofing, pouring cement mortar and the timing of its drying will allow you to get a solid high-quality floor, ready for finishing with any decorative coating.

Installation of wooden floors

When building a private house, many people prefer to make the floor out of wood. Such a desire to have high-quality wooden flooring underfoot is explained by the desire to use environmentally friendly materials, which include wood. In addition to high environmental friendliness, such a floor has a number of other advantages.

Wooden floors are easy to install and easy to repair during operation. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, such a floor will keep heat inside the house without releasing it outside. Plank flooring made of quality wood is characterized by a long service life and an attractive "natural" appearance.

To make a floor in a private house, you need to choose the right wood. The choice of starting materials should be based on the design features of the structure itself. The device of the floor in a country house should be in without fail provide for the presence of a subfloor that acts as an air gap. If such a layer is absent, then the wooden floor will quickly become unusable due to moisture. In addition, for a good floor, it is important to have all the layers of the structure, including logs, rough flooring, hydro and thermal insulation, and a finishing coating.

The floor in a private house is subjected to significant mechanical stress, so for its construction it is required to choose wood with good technological characteristics. The boards must be well dried, the recommended moisture content is no more than 12%. Any chips and cracks on the surface of the material are not allowed. Experts recommend giving preference to wood conifers, fit pine, larch, fir, cedar. To increase the life of the future floor, all boards must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

The installation of a wooden floor begins with the determination of places for the supporting pillars and their installation. The fertile layer of soil around the entire perimeter of the house is removed and removed, gravel is poured in its place, and sand is placed on top of it. Layers of gravel and sand must be well compacted. On the ends of the supporting pillars fit waterproofing material, most often for these purposes use the usual roofing material.

Filling with gravel.

Next, we make beams that need to be fixed on poles metal corners. Floors in a private house are best done with double insulation. Experts suggest first laying from the sides of the beams plywood sheets, and then place mineral wool or other insulating material on them.

When the insulation layer is ready, you can start laying the rough coating. The boards of this layer should fit well to each other; ordinary self-tapping screws can be used as their fastening to the beams. It is better to leave some distance between the flooring and the walls of the house: a gap of 1.5 cm can be considered the norm for this part of the floor. These gaps provide ventilation for the entire floor structure and protect the walls from expansion of the floorboards when they dry out.

A layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid over the subfloor. The joints of individual pieces of film must be glued with adhesive tape, and the edges should be wrapped on the walls to a height of about 20 cm - to a height finish coating. When the film is laid and fixed, you can proceed to the assembly of the finished floor.

The finished floor is assembled from solid boards or plywood sheets. Plywood sheets are easier to attach, but in the end they do not look very attractive. Therefore, if you want to leave wooden floors in your house, then it is best to immediately collect the finishing coating from a grooved board, and if you plan to cover it with decorative material, it is enough to fix the plywood sheets. Plank floors after assembling the finished floor must be varnished, which will not only protect the material from external influences of a mechanical and chemical nature, but also emphasize the decorative qualities of natural wood.

Pouring concrete floor

Arrangement of a concrete floor in a private house begins with preparatory work. First, markings and gravel filling are done at the site of the future floor. The soil is preliminarily cleared of plants and the top layer, and then compacted. Next, a layer of gravel is poured, which also needs to be well compacted. In the construction of a concrete floor in a private house, gravel will play the role of thermal insulation. Sand is poured over the gravel. After it is compacted, a thick polyethylene film is spread on the surface, which acts as a waterproofing material.

How to make a concrete floor in a private house? After installing the waterproofing layer, you can start pouring the screed. A cement screed in a country house is poured in the same way as a screed in an apartment: levels are set and a mortar is poured, which is leveled from wall to door by the rule.

When pouring a concrete screed, several features should be taken into account. The solution for pouring must be fresh, for its preparation it is recommended to use cement grade not lower than M-300, screening of sand and water. To increase the strength of the concrete layer, you can add to the solution special formulations- plasticizers, which will give the future coating additional strength.

When pouring a screed with a height of 5 cm, you can use reinforcing elements or a reinforcing mesh, which is laid on the waterproofing layer before pouring. In the case of arranging warm water floors in a private house, the use of a reinforcing mesh and the addition of plasticizers to cement mortar are mandatory procedures.

When the concrete hardens a little after pouring, you can remove the beacons. The voids left after their removal are filled with the same solution. After filling and leveling all the cracks, the floor is covered with polyethylene and left to dry. Drying a concrete floor is a long and responsible undertaking. Concrete must dry itself within a month; if there is a floor heating system, it is forbidden to turn on heating until the screed is completely dry. By including heating elements, you will help the concrete to crack even before the start of the operation of the premises. When drying concrete screed it is recommended to periodically moisten with water and cover again with polyethylene: if this requirement is met, the coating will gain maximum strength and will not crack.

In order to correctly make the cement pour, remove the beacons and dry the concrete, it is recommended to consider photos with the work of builders specializing in arranging floors in private homes.

fine finish

It is quite simple to make only a finishing floor in a private house from scratch, but sometimes laying is additionally required. decorative coating. You can also deal with this problem yourself. How can you cover the floor in a private house?

by the most the best option for a private house, a double floor of planks can be considered. The finish coating of this design can not be coated with anything additionally. This option is practical and beautiful, and also has a long service life when proper care. Before the start of operation, the boards should be treated with protective compounds and varnished, which will protect them from the effects of sand, dirt, water and chemicals. For coating, you can choose both a transparent varnish, leaving the natural color of the wood, and colored, giving the floor a different shade.

The concrete floor in a private house assumes the presence of a top layer of decorative coating. Parquet or parquet board will look chic as a floor finish. Such a coating is quite expensive, but it is highly environmentally friendly, has good antistatic and thermal insulation characteristics. It does not make sense to make parquet, but in a house where you plan to live permanently, such a coating will look appropriate.

As analogues of parquet, one can consider more affordable laminate, linoleum, carpet and ceramic tiles. Laminate will do for the living room and bedrooms, ceramic tiles will look appropriate in the kitchen, bathroom and hallway. Linoleum is also best placed only in the kitchen or in the hallway. The use of carpet is more limited: the material is suitable for finishing the floor in bedrooms.

The range of modern colors and textures of the listed materials allows you to choose a coating for every taste. In a private house, floors with natural patterns that repeat the texture of wood or natural stone will look appropriate.

Laying a subfloor is a rather laborious operation, but it is absolutely necessary. The device of the lower floor of the house serves as its basis and is connected with the foundation. The rough floor serves as an intermediate link between the foundation and the final finish, while performing a number of specific functions.

1. Draft floor as a structural element of the house

After tying the foundation, the first step is to install the lower floor of the house. On it you can carry out further work on the installation of walls. This is especially true for building frame house using frame-frame technology, and laying bricks, wall blocks from the inside requires a solid foundation under your feet. In addition, the lower ceiling performs a number of other functions, being a necessary element of the building.

Draft floor:

1. Carries out the distribution of all loads on the lower floor, such as weight bearing walls and partitions, all people, furniture, home appliances and appliances
2. Serves as the basis for the work on assembling the frame and erecting walls
3. Is the basis for the finishing floor
4. It is a component of the overall shell of the house, protecting it primarily from low temperatures

Obviously, all the listed functions of the subfloor impose special requirements on its installation, such as strength, surface evenness, resistance to atmospheric influences.

2. Types of floors

The main reason for installing various designs subfloor is a difference in the type of construction of the houses themselves. The house can be stone, block, built of logs or thick timber, frame. Under various types of houses can be laid different types foundations:

• slab
• Tape
• Columnar
• Pile screw

The deepening of the foundation and its strapping can also vary somewhat. However, there are some common features and features of subflooring for all types of structures. In many cases, the base for the subfloor is the strapping bars, which receive and transfer all loads from the floor directly to the foundation.

In accordance with their functions, the draft floors are several layers responsible for each of them:

1. The base of the floor is either soil or floor elements
2. The underlying layer is a layer of gravel, sand, slag, expanded clay, etc.
3. Base for coating (screed) - monolithic leveling layer
4. Layer of hydro and thermal insulation
5. The floor covering itself

Draft floors are divided into three main types:

• By lags
• By the beams
• On the ground

The difference between the types of subfloor is in the way it is laid, as can be seen from the name.

3. Preparation for installation of the subfloor

If the foundation of the house does not provide for a basement, then the ground serves as the basis for laying the subfloor. It must be prepared accordingly for the device of the subfloor.

Grass is removed, various construction garbage and plant soil. An important point: you need to dry clay and loamy soils as best as possible, so they can contain a lot of moisture in the base. It is also impossible to use soils with an admixture of snow and ice.

The site is then carefully leveled. If necessary, soil can be added to the pits. After adding the soil, it is distributed in an even layer and tamped with manual or mechanical rammers.

4. Laying the subfloor along the logs

The device of the floor along the lags is a fairly popular way.

In this case, it is made wooden frame, which is laid on a strapping beam or other specially made supports. The logs themselves are a bar or a thick board, sometimes placed on edge.

In this case, the floor height should be insignificant - so that there is no danger of failure on great depth. The distance from the floor to the log should not be more than 25-30 cm.

With a significant width of the room, the logs will have a large length, and it is not enough to lay them only on the external strapping beam. In this case, additional supports are placed under the logs. There are several ways to arrange supports for logs.

The base is concreted and a thick board is laid on it, which serves as a crate for installing a log. This method is especially well suited for a low base above the ground. If the distance under the floor is large 15-20 cm and the floor is not concreted, posts are installed under the boards of the lower crate, in increments of about 80 cm. The posts can be installed in this way:

1. Holes come off, slightly wider than the cross section of the columns (35-40 cm)
2. Concrete so that top base protruded slightly above the ground.
3. Brick columns are laid out.

Usually it is enough to lay out the columns in two bricks in two layers, perpendicular to one another. You can completely make columns out of concrete, but then you will need to build a high formwork.

The height of all columns must be displayed in one plane. This is controlled already when laying the foundations for them. If necessary, the height of the columns is adjusted with various substrates: wooden spacers are installed between the surface of the boards and the logs, the dimensions of which are about 20-25 cm long, 10-15 cm wide, and about 3 cm thick. They adjust the horizontal plane of the log. For fine adjustments, thin sheets of plywood are usually used.

On top of the posts, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing, for example, from roofing material.

The distance between the lags should not exceed 0.5 m. A small gap must be left near the walls, taking into account the deformation of the wood.

On top of the log for the finishing floor, you can fix plates made of durable material - OSB or thick plywood. It is recommended to do this "out of the box", that is, the subsequent layer of plywood or OSB is slightly shifted relative to the previous one.

If necessary, the cavities between the lags can be filled with insulation. It can be expanded clay or mineral wool- depending on the degree necessary insulation Houses.

5. Floor on adjustable joists

V Lately acquires a method of installing a log on adjustable stands. It's plastic screw supports quite strong and light. They are equipped with a square section stand, which is placed on a rigid base and a screw, with adjustable height. With their use, you can quickly equip the subfloor, moreover, it will not come into contact with the base, it will be well ventilated, and therefore the need for waterproofing disappears.

The order of installation of such lags is as follows:

1. Holes are drilled in the log boards - in increments of 50-80cm
2. Lag is installed in the right place
3. The support is attached to the base
4. Racks are twisted to the required level

6. Subfloor flooring on beams

The next way to lay the subfloor is to install it on the beams. Here the main structural element is a wooden beam. It is made from a rectangular bar. To determine the cross section of the beam, all load characteristics on the base of the ground floor premises are taken into account. In order not to use a heavy thick timber that is physically difficult to work with, you can use double boards or boards mounted on an edge. A good option would be to use hewn logs.

The load on the beams is calculated from a number of parameters that we mentioned above. It is believed that the total load from the weight of furniture, fittings, etc. can be about 400 kg per 1 m2 of floor area.

Span length, m	Installation step, m
	0.6 m	1.0 m
3	75x200mm	100x175mm
4	100x200mm	125x200mm
5	125x200mm	150x225mm
6	150x225mm	175x200mm
7	150x300mm	200x275mm

The beams are mounted parallel to each other. With a room width of more than 6 meters, additional supports must be installed under the beams. These can be columns, the installation of which was described above.

Beams are fastened directly to the walls. A hole is cut in the wall corresponding to the section of the beam, and the beam is laid into it with its end. To isolate from external influences, this hole is laid with tow. The installation depth of the beams in the walls depends on the section of the beams. The thinner the beams, the deeper they should go into the holes (up to 100-150mm).

Often cross beams for the subfloor are elements bottom strapping foundation.

7. Laying the floor on the ground

In many cases, especially if the floor height is low, it is laid using the “on the ground” method. In this case, you do not have to spend a lot of expensive lumber.

Consider this way in detail. It consists of several stages:

1. Base Leveling
2. Backfilling with a layer of sand 10-15 cm at a humidity of 7-10%
3. Sand compaction
4. Adding crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of 8-20 cm at a moisture content of 5-7%
5. Laying adobe-crushed stone or adobe-gravel layer with a thickness of about 10 cm
6. Compaction of this layer and the appearance of moisture on the surface
7. Pouring concrete mix

As a result, after hardening, we will get a flat solid surface on which you can immediately lay the finishing floor. Subfloor layers for better fastening and solidity of the screed reinforce, as a rule, reinforcing mesh. Thermal insulation of such a floor is conveniently carried out with expanded polystyrene plates.

8. Device of couplers

The top layer of the subfloor on the ground is called the screed. Screeds are made from cement-sand mortars. The main purpose of the screed is to create a perfectly flat surface for laying the finished floor. To bring the plane, so-called beacons are installed. These are, as a rule, slats with a thickness selected for the creation of a plane. The mixture is applied to the floor and accelerated to the height of the rails.

The junction of the screed to the walls and partitions must be laid with waterproofing. The surface during the laying process is continuously leveled, as the concrete tends to settle.

Work on the creation of screeds must be carried out in the warm season, with an optimum air temperature of at least 15 degrees. It is recommended to apply a self-leveling layer on top of the main screed (its thickness is about 5-10mm) bulk method. To do this, there are many different mixtures on sale.

The final stage of the screed device is its primer and waterproofing. The surface before applying primers is cleaned and primed without gaps.

9. Conclusion

The device of draft floors is a rather laborious process that requires compliance with all technologies, accuracy and well-known craftsmanship. In the simplest cases, you can do it yourself, but it’s better to turn to professionals - the structural strength of the building, the evenness of the surface and its suitability for finishing, as well as sufficient insulation and waterproofing of the whole house, largely depend on the installation of the floor.

Specialists of the company "K-DOM" are ready to perform work on flooring, both rough and finish, in compliance with all requirements. Works can be performed both separately and as part of the construction of turnkey cottages.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result on your own or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of the device floors in wooden house important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for independent work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process features

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor "pie".

The main element of the building structure for the floor is the strapping. For capital buildings, it is usually made from a powerful beam with parameters cross section not less than 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced by several boards, securely interconnected. Board binding is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses experienced by the timber.

Products used for strapping are subject to pre-treatment antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oil-treated wooden parts do not rot or absorb moisture, so they serve long years. In the absence of oil, apply special means available at every hardware store.

To extend the life of the strapping, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. Usually it is a roofing material folded in two layers.

By strapping, you need to install lags. These are wide powerful boards, which need to be strengthened on the edge. They, like the strapping, need to be treated with an antiseptic. Logs must first be carefully examined, cracks repaired if any. Boards with big flaws should be replaced with better ones.

In light buildings, it is allowed to make logs prefabricated. For fastening constituent parts use special staples or studs. Docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. For this, the lag section is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, along which a membrane is laid to prevent the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. A heater is placed in the formed cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the owners of the house. Any floor can be used as a finishing floor. available options, including water heated floors.

Structure structure

It is not enough to build a wooden house, you need to sum it up correctly engineering Communication, such as the:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewerage;
• electrical wiring.

abundance engineering structures indoors does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground ground floor under the subfloor, you can install an electric water heater, or you can equip a gas boiler room. Especially important is the location of the water heater under the floor for a small shower room.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect against moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both in the equipment of the first floor and the second. It is laid under the mineral insulation and above it. The non-woven material is produced in narrow rolls. Separate parts during laying should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the lags, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps better than others, OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB boards widely used in residential construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good for underlayment under boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you should not do OSB with a finish coating.

For laying on logs set in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards made by pressing with the use of a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot and do not dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walking.

Laying is done quickly, because:

• does not require special skills;
• sheets are correct geometric shape, and time is not spent on fitting;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of ​​3.1 m2.

Floor types

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of overlapping. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house, you can equip any of modern options floors: laminate, parquet, cork, tiles and others.

Concrete the floors are formed by pouring the screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A well-made screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers and leveling the surface.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

There is a high chance of cracking in a new house cement screed due to shrinkage of the building. Serious damage will not follow, however, heat loss is possible. You can prevent negative consequences by laying a reliable insulation.

Concrete floor possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor . Wood is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergic reactions residents: adults and children. natural material owners of country houses are increasingly using it, preferring it to brick and various blocks.

Plank flooring is easy to sheathe with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a "pie" of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made as a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

No matter on the foundation, the ground, screw piles or just a building is being erected on brick columns, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First, prepare the walls, equipping them ventilation holes. The lack of air access to the underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the overlap must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and a stock of wood of 10-15 percent.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with agents against rot and fungus.

Draft two-layer floors are made where the base has to be laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can tamp the ground, lay out a pillow of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence people.

In a light country house used for a seasonal stay, the floor needs to be done differently. First you need to set up brick columns around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a single height (bring them to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket made of roofing material or roofing felt. A 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This whole structure is closed with bars, along which lags are set with constant horizontal adjustment. The design is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the logs if the manufacture is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor assumes the presence of laying insulation between the rough and finishing floor, hydro and vapor barrier, and, if necessary, other components.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will be purchased presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room complete.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the premises;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. exotic trees, growing in tropical forests, have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards from such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. Floor purple can be done if you use rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when buying very expensive zebrano wood.

Will not require big expenses boards from coniferous trees, including pine and spruce. From such floors, the room is filled with substances useful for humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and lime boards are required. They do not emit resin, are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be chosen taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. With a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, boards with a thickness of 50 mm should be preferred. As for the width, it is set by the design project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to do the flooring with your own hands, remember that wide boards it is inconvenient to lay alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take narrow and not too long boards.

One way to install the floor is to lay it apart, with this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as the base, parquet boards are glued with mastic or glue and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, as is the case with massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight styling, they use a diagonal one. Laying at an angle of 45 ° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arranging the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self-installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, having shown perseverance, observing step by step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn top coat, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul floors change wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation.

If the lags are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from a greased parquet glue plywood.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finish coating is done with a sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Fastening points should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a step of about 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting recesses should be puttied. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will undergo negative impact. And after some time, traces of poor-quality work will appear on it.

The durability of the finished floor covering also depends on the quality of the preparation of the base. It is for this reason that laying the subfloor plays such a significant role. The material used for installation must ensure evenness finished construction and be compressive strength. Modern technologies offer several options for arranging subfloors using different materials.

Types of subfloors

The draft floor in the section resembles a layer cake:

• Base. It is on him that all the burden falls.
• Layers of hydro, heat and sound insulation.
• Screed.
• Draft coating.

Far from every owner will build this, however, the subfloor can be done in different ways with your own hands. Fortunately, there are several options for its arrangement.

Wet floors

The most popular methodology It does not require special skills and high costs. The screed is carried out using a gypsum or cement-sand mortar. Most relevant in houses with slab ceilings. The screed is poured onto the layers of thermal insulation. The top of such a floor must be leveled and dried, and only then covered with the last final layer.

There are three main types of wet screed floors:

• Single layer. They are used to eliminate plate defects, as a rule, with differences up to 1.5 cm.
• Double layer and multi layer. They are used when it is necessary to equalize a significant dissonance of heights (up to 12 cm). They simply cannot be eliminated in one layer.

Base pouring is a great way to shape perfect surface for laying carpet, laminate or linoleum.

The positive qualities of a wet screed include: moisture resistance, fire resistance, strength and relatively small thickness. The cost of the material is democratic $ 1-3 per kilogram of the mixture.

dry floor

To minimize the laying time of the subfloor, use a dry screed. Solutions practically do not participate in the process of its formation. For this reason, the screed does not need to dry for a long time. Insulating material, lathing and wood flooring are involved in the creation of the "pie". During installation, ventilation gaps are created.

Important! The screed for ceramic tiles must be treated with a primer. Omission of this moment may threaten the delamination of the coating.

prefabricated floor

This is a dry screed. It is mounted on top of slabs or flooring from boards. The prefabricated floor is a structure made of rolled, sheet materials and dry backfill. "Pie" usually consists of screed, heat-insulating materials, logs and dry mixes. A rough floor is mounted on top.

Prefabricated floors are different high level sound insulation and serve as the basis for most finished floors. They are almost 2 times lighter than wet screeds, but have a decent thickness, so they are not suitable for thin roll coatings.

Floors on logs

This type subfloor is most often found in older houses. Logs level and greatly facilitate the installation of a wooden floor, and also do not allow weakening of the load-bearing beams.

Arranging the floors on the logs seems quite simple, but it cannot be done without proper preparation. It is impossible to work with them without knowing all the subtleties.

It is not permissible to align the logs with wooden wedges and spacers made of wood chips. Such a design is not viable and after a while the floor begins to creak and sag. To level, sand is poured under the logs or the material is trimmed.

Antiseptic treatment and ventilation increase the life of the frame. From above it is covered with plates or sheet material, and to lower the reduced noise index, polyethylene foam or fiberboard can be placed under the logs.

Adjustable floors

These floors rest on the floor slab through threaded posts. Contribute to raising the finish coating to a height of up to 7 cm (if we are talking about plywood) or up to 22 (with the help of a log). To create a subfloor, beams, cranial beams and a board made of coniferous wood, usually with a reduced grade, are used.

Subfloor materials

To correctly answer the question: how to make a subfloor, you need to decide what materials are needed for its arrangement.

The base is assembled from the following components:

• Bricks. They serve to create pillars that are placed on the cement mortar.
• Metal corners and bolts. Lags are attached to brick pillars.
• Waterproofing. Choose a material that can prevent rotting.
• Insulation. Lay on the bottom layer of the rough base.
• Boards or slabs. Used for flooring.

Of course, this is not all the necessary elements. Their variations are due to the variety of types of rough coating and the wishes of the owner. The quantity is calculated on the basis of the size of the premises for development.

The duration of floor operation directly depends on the proper preparation and positive qualities of the materials included in its composition, including coatings.

Gypsum boards

GVL and GVLV create a perfectly even base for a finishing coat. Usually they are laid in two layers, fixing with glue. It is customary to use these plates for leveling on expanded clay backfill or for creating a coating of heat and sound insulation. They are also suitable for flooring on the old subfloor. The only thing that should not be done is to combine GVL (GVLV) with lags. In such a combination, the material does not withstand local loads: even furniture legs can break through the floor.

The base is suitable for almost any finishing surface: laminate, carpet, tile, linoleum, cork or parquet. To protect the subfloor from the influence of possible leaks, it is necessary to treat the plates with a hydrophobic composition.

Moisture resistant chipboard

The material can withstand heavy loads (we are talking about the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bchipboard high density) and allows you to form a fairly even base. Due to its increased strength, it can be laid both on backfill and on logs.

Chipboard has good indicators of heat and sound insulation. Usually plates, like drywall, are fixed with glue. They are laid in two layers, not forgetting about the treatment with a hydrophobic composition.

Important! chipboard is better only use in dry rooms and cover with carpet, parquet or linoleum. For additional sound insulation, the plates are pasted over with technical cork.

Cement particle board

The material has great features:

• High strength;
• environmental friendliness;
• Water resistant.

DSP does not burn and is not afraid of even serious leaks. On the market there are plates with a thickness of 1-3.2 cm. They are laid on the backfill or on frame logs, laid in two layers (the top one is treated with a waterproofing or water-repellent composition).

DSP is excellent for laying parquet and laminate. The only drawback of the plates are minor deviations in thickness at the joints (up to 2 mm). In this case, it is unacceptable to cover the surface with cork or linoleum without pre-training grounds. Deficiencies are eliminated by grinding and puttying.

Moisture resistant plywood

Multilayer plywood has many variations in thickness (from 0.3 to 3 cm) and cost ($ 2.7-39). Due to its high strength, it is often laid on frame logs, but just as often it is laid directly on concrete base under parquet or laminate.

Longevity and excellent aesthetic characteristics of the finishing flooring are provided by the subfloor in a wooden house, which is made using different methods.

A rough foundation is understood as a special structure necessary to form the most even platform for the finishing floor covering. Its second task is to ensure an even distribution of the load on the floor. The draft base can be equipped in two ways:

1. Dry - logs are used.
2. Wet - the leveling structure is created by means of a concrete screed.

Draft base floor

Among other things, the draft floor in a wooden house is mounted in order to increase the thermal insulation performance of the dwelling. In wooden buildings, the wet method of arranging the leveling base is used very rarely. Usually it is created using lag. In this case, the rough floor platform is mounted on the base or on the floors (their function is performed by thick beams or reinforced concrete slabs). Next, let's talk about how to properly make a preliminary floor using wooden elements.

Before starting the arrangement of the draft base, it is necessary to choose the method by which it will be mounted, and determine the amount of materials required. After that, a series of round holes should be made in the corners of a residential building made of wood. They will provide effective ventilation subfloor and will increase the service life of both the subfloor and the finish floor. Holes will not spoil the look of your home. At the end of all the planned work, you simply disguise them with decorative ventilation grilles.

Then it is necessary to treat the entire underground space and the logs directly with an antiseptic composition. Laying a rough base on an untreated site is not allowed. It must be understood that a variety of microorganisms can appear on the elements of the subfloor during the operation of the building. If wooden logs do not process, they will be destroyed very quickly by mold and fungus. And repair preliminary ground almost impossible - access to it is either completely impossible, or very difficult.

• hot resin - it also protects against negative impact moisture, and from a variety of insect pests;
• solutions VVK-3, HHP or MHCC;
• ammonium fluorosilicon;
• chlorophos - it is most often used as protection against insects;
• sodium fluoride.

Wood treatment products

All these compounds are safe for humans. They do not emit harmful substances and at the same time have the required indicators of wood hydroprotection. Do the processing with their help strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Note! Boards for the subfloor need to be processed only from the back. But on the logs themselves, crowns and beams protective compounds applied from all sides.

Additionally, it is recommended to treat the rough base with fire retardants. Specialized stores now sell universal compounds that simultaneously protect wood from fire, moisture and microbial attack.

To install the platform under the floor finish, stock up on the following materials:

1. Wooden bars of the third or second grade - logs. In most cases, such products are characterized not very flat surface. Therefore, they need to be slightly corrected. Your task is to make their front side (the one on which the laminate, parquet board or other coating will then be laid) more or less even. Such an operation is performed with an ax. Naturally, nothing needs to be done with lags made from first grade wood. Such products themselves are very smooth.
2. Bricks for building pillars. The height of the finished supports should be at the level of 20–25 cm, and their dimensions are usually taken as 40x40 cm. The number of brick pillars is determined by geometric parameters wooden house and its floor base. Cement mortar supports are mounted.
3. Plywood or boards. With their help, the first and second draft layers are laid.
4. Polyethylene film or other waterproofing material. It is needed to protect the logs from decay.
5. Heat and vapor barrier material.

Installation of a platform for a floor finish

Also, the laying of the structure described by us is impossible without the use of fasteners. With brick supports, wooden logs are most often connected with 4x5, 5x5 cm bolts and steel corners.

How to do the floor - instructions for beginners

The design considered in the article can have two or one layer. If the beams are attached to the walls of a wooden residential building, the installation of a log is mandatory. In such a situation, the distance between the individual beam products is quite large. If the distance between the beams is minimal, the leveling base can be made directly on them.

Self-execution scheme installation work is:

1. Install brick pillars(they act as a support for the black base) or make a strapping of boards around the perimeter of the room. If supporting elements made of bricks are used, roofing material must be laid on top of them.
2. Attach the logs to the base of the house. Fix them with bolts and metal corners (to brick supports) or (to wood trim).
3. When installing the log, leave 20 mm gaps near all wall surfaces. It will be possible to lay heat-insulating material in these slots. With a small distance of supporting the logs on the base of the house (less than 10 cm), they are installed in the same way. And then they press it with a fairly massive beam. It is fixed tightly in the walls of the building. The walls of the house and the sections of the joints of the beam are measured, after which an appropriate cut is made. It is advisable to take its dimensions a couple of centimeters more than those that you get as a result of measurements. Do not forget that the logs will expand slightly under the influence of moisture.
4. Install cranial bars at the bottom of the supports for the rough base. Then connect them with lags on the sides. Geometric parameters such bars are always taken smaller than the dimensions of the main elements.
5. Mount on boards. You don't need to attach them. Wood will expand during use. Free placement of planks will not interfere with this natural process.
6. Lay a layer of waterproofing on the floor base. The chosen waterproofing material (for example, polyethylene film) should be fixed on the wall surfaces. On them, the waterproofer comes to a height that is equal to the height of all available levels of feasible floor base(This figure includes finishing gender). Fasten the areas where the pieces of film are connected to each other with a construction stapler.
7. Lay a layer of thermal insulation. The height of the lag should be slightly greater than the thickness of the heat-shielding material. For wooden buildings allowed to use any materials for

   Underfloor insulation layer

   Next, cover the cake made with vapor barrier material. It is also fixed on the walls of the building with a stapler. The joints of vapor barrier products are glued with construction tape. If thermal insulation material the lag was clearly laid in height, on their sides it is necessary to mount thin slats. They will hold the insulation in place. As a result, you will get a gap under the floor for ventilation.

   Final work - laying plywood, boards, OSB-boards on a rough base. The installation of the second layer of the base is carried out in the same way as you installed the first part of the structure (leave gaps near the walls, place heat-insulating material in them, and so on). Fastening of boards, plates and sheets is carried out in increments of 10–14 cm using stainless steel screws.

   As you can see, it is not difficult to equip a rough base with your own hands. Good luck with this!