Correct installation and fastening to the wall of plasterboard on a wooden frame. Fastening of drywall to a wooden ceiling: Methods of installation of a frame of wood and metal profiles Is it possible to navigate the plasterboard on the bar

Plasterboard today occupies an honorable place and is of great popularity in construction and repair work. Often, partitions are constructed for redeveloping the apartment, and the plasterboard here is simply indispensable. List of advantages Significant: GLCs are quite light, the rate of construction is high, the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often installing plasterboard on a wooden frame.

Plasterboard partitions

Pine breeds are often used in the quality of the wood framework for the wooden framework for the construction of plasterboard design. Such structures can be used as an indoor partition. What features plasterboard partition has on a wooden frame?

Starting stage in construction construction - installation of strapping. Painter bars in the following order: the floor ceiling. If there is wooden floors in the room, then put the baboas easily simple nails. For rails, 6 cm recommended nails at 10 cm. If the walls are from materials such as concrete or brick, plus the layer of plaster, it will be fixed a little more complicated. In this case, the mount is carried out by anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and the floor.

Fastening It is recommended to start from the ceiling, pre-applying the placement of the place of the future partition. As soon as the bars are fixed on the ceiling, you can apply marking on the floor and continue the mount. It is important to make marking correctly, you can use the level or laser level.

When marking, you need to make a minimum of 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can do more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they can not be seen. After the floor timber is fixed, it is necessary to check its position relative to the ceiling.

After you make sure the accuracy of the mounts, you can move to the mounting of the bar on the wall. Everything is much easier: to connect the ceiling with floor vertical bars of strapping. Subsequently, it is for vertical racks that will have the main load, so it is extremely important to fix it well. It is equally important to observe the distance between vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.

Before you start strengthening the design, you need to evaluate how strong walls.

If you deal with the walls of fragile materials (cellular concrete, drywall and so on), you need dowels of the largest size. It is allowed to use and nails-dowels, and special dowels. It is possible for the next attachment: in the wall, drill holes, drive in them wooden plugs, in which you can subsequent screws or score nails.

Another way to fasten the strapping: Take direct suspensions (usually these are used when installing a frame of metal) and fasten with their help bars. This option is perfectly suitable in case the walls are quite durable.

As soon as the binding is installed, you can move to the installation of the racks. Usually, the distance between the racks is 60 cm, it is very convenient - subsequently the GLC of the standard width (120 cm) can be fixed on 2 racks, which facilitates the installation of plasterboard.

Installation of racks is carried out with the help of wood bars, screwed to the rack and strapping using screws. You can roll racks and metal corners.

If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as jumpers horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is excellent. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective tube or use the tin box.

Partition insulation: nuances

Sometimes without additional insulation in the construction, it is not necessary, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation of insulation materials is carried out when on one side of the wooden frame, a plasterboard is placed. The optimal insulation material is the mineral wool and foamed materials.

Isolation is fairly easy, as the distance dimensions between the racks and the materials coincide. It remains only to put the material and consolidate it. If a hard material is chosen as an insulation, then its mount must be performed on the inside of the already lined partition. If cavities are formed during installation, then they can be filled with Minvata. The combination of materials will give a high sound insulation effect.

Often, in the process of cladding the second hand, the plates arise a problem on racks in the form of cracks. This happens because of the large number of screws. It is easy to prevent such an error if the stoves of the plates on the walls to do from opposite sides (for example, the 1st side is trimmed on the left, 2nd - right).

It is important to remember that between the ceiling and top of the drywall you need to leave a small gap of 1-2 cm. The need is that the plaster in the stove can start crumble. The gap will not be noticeable, it is easily closed by a simple plinth.

Expanded partition

There are also extended partitions when mounting drywall is performed on a double frame frame. The advantage of this type of construction is that there is the possibility of laying communications and even the installation of heating radiators.

The differences in the construction of an extended partition is that the strapping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. Wooden frame is being built according to the same principles as at a simple partition. Once on the one hand, the trim is made, you can lay the necessary communications. Wires must be in a pipe or box.

If there is a need to install the battery, then it is not necessary to install it in the middle of the design, but closer to one of the parties. Do not forget about the holes for ventilation, then they need to close with plastic lattices. It must be remembered that if you install the battery, then it is impossible to warm the partition wall or foam. Perfectly cope with the Mineral Wat task. After laying communications, the installation process looks likewise with a simple partition.

Installation on an uneven wall

Not always the room may differ perfectly smooth walls. Mounting the frame in this case looks somewhat different. Starting with the detection of irregularities: the timber is put on the floor along the wall and spend on its outer edge line. Next, there is a markup for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the racking wheel must be pressed to the wall vertically and at an equal interval, mark the position of its outlet on the floor.

It is important to put the support bar exactly, because the vertical bars will be fixed on it. To level the racks, you can take trimming of DVP, wood or plywood.

Installation of drywall can be performed with your own hands, having an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions, a hurry here, for nothing, after all, the errors will then fix it. Before the process, you need to do all the necessary measurements and calculations, stock whole set of material and tools that will be needed. For example:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• hacksaw;
• scissors for metal;
• drill;
• level.

But the most basic, perhaps, the moment in the construction of a plasterboard partition is the documentation for permission. It is not recommended to start work earlier than you get all the necessary permissions.

Such a popular finishing material, like GKK, is in most cases attached to a special framework. It is usually mounted from metal profiles. The alternative option is a doomlet of wooden bars, collective, with their own hands very simple. But it is not necessary to be deceived by ease of manufacture: a tree - capricious material, its use is possible not always. Consider all the features of such a design and find out when and how you can make a wooden crate for plasterboard yourself.

Features and disadvantages of wood crates

The construction of a wooden framework under GCC attracts low cost and ease of work. Especially if a small amount of boards remained during the repair, which can be used as a bearing structure. In this case, it is not necessary to spend money on the purchase of metal profiles, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.

But it should be remembered about the properties of wood, which limit its use in construction:

• Wooden designs are subject to a change in geometric dimensions with excessive or insufficient humidity. The plasterboard attached to such a crate will move with it, the result of which the cracks occur at the sheets of sheets. This is a permanent process, since the tree gives moisture when drying in the room or absorbs with excessive humidity.
• Alignment of walls with GLCs are often combined with insulation. The ventilation of the wooden parts of the crate in these conditions is minimal, which leads to their rapid rotting.
• Bruks are poorly suitable for alignment of the walls. It is unacceptable to use for lining a wedge: over time, the tree under the influence of moisture and temperature can be bent, and weak sections are formed in places such lines.

• It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing the ceiling plasterboard. This design does not have a sufficient stock of strength, it is better to apply a metal profile for this purpose.
• It is unacceptable to use a frame frame in rooms with elevated levels of humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, the lamp from this material is suitable only for rooms with permanent microclimate indicators.
• If under the GLC surface it is planned to place electrical wires, then metal guides should be used: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.

When can I make a frame under GLK from a tree?

Wooden design for plasterboard sheets It is recommended to use:

• In houses from logs or from a bar. In this case, the lamp is perfectly combined with the material of the walls due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, plasterboard remains fixed and is not damaged.
• In ordinary apartments with perfectly smooth walls. In this case, the frame of a bar will be a reliable base for attaching GLC.

Benefits

Pluses of a wooden crate:

• Simple installation that can be performed with your own hands.
• Available and cheap materials, more eco-friendly than a metal profile.
• In compliance with all necessary conditions, the correctly installed dorett will last long and will be a reliable basis for sheet carp sheets.

Tools and materials

First of all, it will take a wooden timing itself by a minimum of 40 × 40 mm. If it is planned to carry out insulation and sound insulation, then the bar need to choose the thoroughly, for example 40 × 80 mm. It is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions to prevent its rotting. It will be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.

Before installation, all wooden elements must be cured for several days in the room in order to adapt to its microclimate and take its final geometric shape.

Also necessary:

• Measuring tools: level, plumb, roulette.
• Pencil, melted cord.
• And dowels for mounting a bar to the wall.
• Shanoppers and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting the frame elements among themselves.
• Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.

As can be seen, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal even a novice master. To install the wooden frame and fastening of drywall, you will not have to acquire specialized expensive devices.

Installation of crates

Preparatory work is to remove the old coating in the event that there are doubts about its strength. Things in the room can be covered with polyethylene film or other material.

The order of the device of a wooden frame:

• First make marking. Glk size determines the optimal step between vertical racks - 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three brusches: one in the center, and two - along the edges. The junctions should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.

• A horizontal timber is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumbing, the location of the rail on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.

In the case of perfectly smooth overlap, horizontal bars can be attached directly to the wall. Here the same thickness of all elements of the crate is of paramount importance: any error in the amount will be wrapped with irregularities of the frame.

• Vertical racks are attached to the bars on the ceiling and semi alone along the level. They are mounted on a dowel-nail to the wall, for which the holes in the rails are pre-drilled and in the wall under fasteners.

In the houses with wooden walls, mount the racks to the base can be screwed in wood. But the holes can still be drilled: it is also eliminated by the likelihood that the ram will crack.

• The heads of the screws are drunk deep into the sheet by 1 mm.
• In the future, as well as the deepening of the heads of the screws.
• After grinding, the surface is ground and ready for further finish.

To date, plasterboard is rightly recognized by one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is explained by his pricing accessibility and indisputable ease. It is very often treated for alignment of overlaps in the house. Today we will talk about how to mount plasterboard to the walls, as well as get acquainted with all the advantages and disadvantages of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before proceeding to the study of such a finishing material, such as plasterboard, it is worth understanding what he represents.

Plasterboard is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with solid plaster and special fillers inside. It is used in various purposes. For various works, sheets with different thickness are produced. Looking plasterboard panels can not only on the walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose the materials of the appropriate category.

Features

Today in the stores of construction and finishing materials you can find absolutely any products for any repair work. For alignment of walls, customers are offered high-quality putty, plaster and other practical compositions. However, many people choose for such works "dry" material - plasterboard.

To date, the problem of uneven walls familiar to many.It is faced with owners of private houses and urban apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the overlaps of smooth, not attracting the brigade of the finishes.

Uneven floors are bad not only what they look unpainted, but also the fact that many finishing materials cannot be applied on them. This can be attributed to the tile, most types of paints and wallpapers. Based on the drops and potholes, such coatings are held unreliable, and they look very inaccurated. Many of the finishing materials and emphasize irregularities on the walls.

In such cases, do not do without perfectly smooth and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat look. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible in processing and can be coated with practically any canvases and paints.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall with a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless montage method, which specialists consider more complex.

Choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that it is necessary to work with drywall. This is due to its feature consisting in the fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the plasterboard, then it is hardly possible to return to him the primordial species. That is why for the manufacture, for example, arched structures, the usual plasterboard will not fit, because when it is easy to flexure it will just break.

Another distinguishing quality of plasterboard is its multitasking. It is used not only to align different bases, but also for the manufacture of interesting multi-level ceilings, racks with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Pros and cons

Like any other finishing material, plasterboard has advantages and disadvantages of which you should know if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

To begin with, you will get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of plasterboard sheets:

• They differ in a smooth and smooth surface, due to which they are chosen to align different bases.
• The advantage of plasterboard is also its thermal conductivity. Indoor, where the walls are covered with this material, will always be warm and cozy.
• Plasterboard is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It has no dangerous and harmful substances in its composition, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
• The sheets of GLC fireproof and do not support burning.

• Another weighty advantage of plasterboard is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, such material is not subject to the formation of mold and fungus.
• Often, consumers buy precisely plasterboard, as it has an affordable price, but applied in various purposes.
• Plasterboard walls can be complemented by various insulation (more often prefers polyplex and mineral wool).
• Work with plasterboard is quite simple. To do this, you do not need to be purchased by expensive tools.

• Using this finish material, you can implement any bold designer ideas. That is why plasterboard uses many designers in their developments.
• Plasterboard does not require expensive and regular care.
• From the GLK does not come unpleasant chemical smell.
• He is fragilely processed. To do this, you can use almost any materials from conventional paper wallpapers to tile.

• Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any rooms. It may be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvas.
• Thanks to the gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
• With a skeletal method of fastening drywall, rough walls do not need long and scrupulously prepared with special compositions. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic means to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
• Many consumers are purchased for repairing drywall, because it can be used immediately after the purchase, giving them to lie 2-3 days without exposing additional preparation.
• To date, the selection of plasterboard sheets allows you to choose the optimal option for any conditions.

As you can see, a list of positive qualities at drywall is quite impressive.

However, he has its weaknesses:

• Normal plasterboard is not recommended to mount in rooms with high humidity. For such conditions, it is worth choosing extremely moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to specialists, even such plasterboard in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
• Plasterboard sheets can begin to crumble, especially under the action of large loads. That is why the gypsum walls are not allowed to hang heavy items such as large hours, suspended shells in the bathroom, lighting devices, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight. Otherwise, these things will take long on their places, and then just fall off and damage the plasterboard.

• Working with plasterboard needs very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material if only it is arched.
• Plasterboard on the frame will "eat" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all squares.

As far as the listed minuses are - each consumer must decide for itself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you can easily select the material and when you fasten the walls to the walls to strictly follow the instructions.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install plasterboard on partitions in your home, then you should be in withdrawing tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will be useful:

• special knife for cutting plasterboard sheets;
• special glue (for frameless installation method);
• construction level, plumbing, special markup cord, roulette, long line (instead you can take the rule), pencil / marker - these tools will be needed to mark the walls and for competent control over the vertical surfaces;
• ordinary and rubber hammers;

• spatula (instead you can take trowel);
• separate container for kneading the adhesive composition;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;

• self-tapping screw;
• dowel;
• screws;
• electric drill with a nozzle mixer;

• roller with a long handle;
• soft tassel;
• planned (needed to cut the chamfer);
• putclone (for applying the finish layer after all works).

From the materials you will need:

• the sheets of GLC (ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the installation of sheets is planned);
• galvanized profile or wooden bar (for frame formation with the corresponding installation method).

Application area

Plasterboard is a versatile material. It is used in a variety of conditions and fragilely fixed on various bases.

Without this material, just do not do if we are talking about a wooden house or building from the cut.In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require competent alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that the houses from the tree always give shrinkage and plasterboard plates in them can only be installed after the completion of this process. Otherwise, sheets can be damaged in such conditions or deform.

To install drywall on the walls in wooden houses, it is necessary:

• provide space for mounting the insulation (if you, of course, plan to insulate the room further);
• have a free space for laying communication systems.

Align the walls in wooden houses is not easy. In this case, the optimal option will be the frame installation. However, some owners first fasten on the boards and bars sheets of plywood or chipboard, and then plasterboard are glued to them.

Plasterboard is permissible to attach to walls with a concrete basis. For such surfaces, it is not necessary to make a complex frame. Plasterboard can be glued to such bases using a special glue. Such adhesive compositions today are found in stores very often. For example, the qualitative composition of PERLFIX offers a well-known company Knauf.

Plasterboard is often used to align brick walls.Here you can also refer to the usual stance of the material without the manufacture of the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level as far as the overlap is curved, after which any contamination, dust and fat stains are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall should be absolutely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion with drywall will not succeed even when using high-quality glue.

In case you want to level the walls of foam blocks, you should contact the framework of the installation. This is explained by the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to the frameless installation, but before this foam must be prepared - to separate the ground or plaster.

Walls made of aerated concrete also often require alignment. In such cases, it is possible to use frame, and frameless mounting methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases for the primer of deep penetration. Glue in such cases it is necessary to select especially carefully, as in cases with overlappings from foam blocks. Experts recommend applying the compositions from Knauf and "Will Montage".

Plasterboard will be able to make walls even in saman houses.Such buildings are full composites built from clay, land, straw and sand. Of course, with such materials, the construction of perfectly flat partitions does not have. For this reason, they simply need aligning plasterboard fabrics.

Methods of fastening

We have already mentioned above that plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or a frameless way. The selection of this or that installation variant largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the owners preferences.

On profile

This option is the mounted plasterboard is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, the gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame consisting of metal profiles recorded along the wall.

It is worth considering some nuances of this common installation method:

• Between the wall and the profile you can position the insulation, if necessary. Most often consumers choose mineral wool, penplex or foam. However, it is impossible to forget that the draft walls before laying the insulation layer must be processed by the antiseptic composition.
• In the cavity of the frame you can hide various engineering communications. It can be water pipes, heating batteries or wiring.
• Do not forget that in rooms with high levels of humidity, only moisture-resistant plasterboard is permissible. Conventional sheets in such conditions will serve not long.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame has a number of advantages:

• with a similar installation in the room, additional noise and thermal insulation are ensured;
• frame mounting allows you to align even ugly wall curves;
• before installing the frame and fastener of drywall, black partitions do not require preparation (enough to go through them with antiseptics).

Consider more than step-by-step instructions for mounting drywall on the frame:

• First you need to measure the walls and make marking on the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
• Marking under the guides should be started from the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the overlap, then the line is carried out and with the help of a plumb is transferred to the floor.
• Vertical profiles need to be located at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard leaf relies on three racks.
• As for the installation of the suspensions, it is necessary to withstand a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

• After that, you can move directly to the mounting of the frame. First, around the perimeter needs to consolidate the guide profiles. To fasten their ceiling and floor, you need to use a perforator, dowels and screws.
• In the points marked during measurements it is necessary to attach the suspensions.
• In the guide profiles should be inserted bearing and secure their suspensions.
• Configure all the details as securely and tight as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire design will depend on the quality of the frame.

• Before installing plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to strengthen horizontal guides.
• When the frame will be ready, you should switch to the installation of plasterboard sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special 25 mm metal screws. But they need to fasten them in such a way that the caps were slightly "drowning" into the plasterboard.
• After installing all sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using the reinforcing tape.
• When the putty finally dries, the drywall attached to the frame should be fully sharpened. After that, the surface of the wall finish will be perfectly even smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, such a installation technology is simpler. However, it is worth considering that a similar design takes part of the area indoors, so in a very small room it is better to use a frameless way, if, of course, it allows you to take overlap.

Blind designs

Frameless fastening of drywall is differently called adhesive, since it is fixed with the sheets at it with a special adhesive composition.

Choosing this installation option, you need to observe the following conditions:

• on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
• sowing plots should not be;

• walls should not be processed;
• they must be protected from dampness and excessive moisture;
• from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contamination.

It can only be applied to the frameless fastening of drywall in the event that the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile framework.

You can glue drywall on bases in different ways.

The optimal option must be selected, based on the technical condition of the overlaps:

• The first method of installation is designed for more smooth surfaces. Under it, the fixing of plasterboard sheets occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base around the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
• If the overlaps have on their surface of irregularities, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them with the help of the "Perlfix" glue. It must be applied portion along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum web (withstand the distance between the glue heaps of 35 cm), as well as on its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering the Instructions for the Filly Installation of Plasterboard Sheets:

• First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of plasterboard plates.
• Then it is necessary to competently prepare the surface of the base. If the wall is distinguished by a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
• Now you need to cut down the sheets of GLK, as you will be useful to not only the entire panels, but also prepared inserts.
• To make a cut straight, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make cut curves, then you should use electric jigsaw.

• Prepare glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum solutions that frozen sufficiently.
• If the glue dries too quickly and you wish to extend the time of breathing, it is worth adding an adhesive composition for wallpaper or good old PVA into water.
• Now you can start glitting on the walls on the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of \u200b\u200birregularities on the ground. If the overlaps are smooth enough, then the mixture can be superimposed immediately.
• To eliminate considerable curvature it is worth putting beacons. It is possible to build from drywall strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued throughout the perimeter in a vertical position, withsting a step at 40-50 cm.

• Right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb.
• After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread), stretched between extreme beacons, you need to establish the remaining bands.
• Align lighthouses by rule.
• Plasterboard sheets need to be pressed using the rule installed in various positions. Touch the panel with a rubber hammer and correct their position.
• When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be separated by putty.

Plasterboard is a rescue circle in matters of wall leveling. Installation of gypsum sheets can not be called unbearable and energy-intensive.

So that you have a more aesthetic and reliable design, the following advice and recommendations from professionals should be taken into account:

• The installation of plasterboard plates in the room is permissible only after laying outdoor coatings. Also by the time of alignment of overlaps in the room, all questions should be solved on the laying of communications and heating systems.
• Printing plasterboard (with a frameless way), try to avoid cross-shakes. It is better to lay out sheets with offset.
• Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets with the distrofile mounting. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor is 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
• In order for the plasterboard to securely hold on overlaps, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. The walls should not be shrouded and sprinkling areas.

• With a frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cropped material (it is needed for a better sealing of all finishing seams). To do this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
• All tools and materials are recommended to prepare before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distracting and not spending time on extra action.
• Adhesive compositions need to be breeding, based on the instructions. It must be applied on the packaging.
• Do not tighten the fasteners on the drywall too much, as this can lead to deformation of a fragile material.
• To work with plasterboard you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the instrument yourself, to work with which you are more convenient, but experts advise to contact laser devices.

• Pay attention to the temperature regime during installation work. The temperature is +10 degrees recommended. If the room is tangible, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
• Plasterboard sheets are recommended to install on the walls not immediately after the purchase, and after it will lie at home for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

There were ate in front of you the task of aligning the walls of the plasterboard and you want to solve it by installing the hypocarter, then the use of a wooden frame can be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow to post a sound and thermal insulating layer in the intermediary space, which will certainly increase the comfort of the room.
True, it is necessary to take into account some important factors associated with the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of work (with the installation of plasterboard on a wooden frame to cope with the newcomer), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame is superior to most alternative options.
However, it is possible to use it only in rooms with medium or even low moisture. The tree is subject to rapid rotting, danger of injuries insects, this material is fireless: so if you want your design to serve for a long time,
It is necessary to expose this material to special processing, in the form of impregnation.

Mounting partition on a wooden frame

In addition, a wooden frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty of installing such a frame may occur if you deal with an uneven wall. In this case, customizing the design in one plane, you will have to either put under the wire bars, or cut off the part of the timber in the plane of the wall plane.

Ready wooden facing frame

But first things first.

The first thing we produce the walls. To do this, using a plumbing system, we determine the optimal location of the plane in which the plasterboard sheets will be located.
It is necessary to achieve that this plane would be completely vertical. Next, we mount two vertical bars along the edges of the wall in such a way that the outer side
Brousa was strictly in our intended plane. To fulfill this work, you need assistant. Bruks are attached to the wall with a plastic dowel. To do this, the wall is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
The diameter and length of the dowel. The dowel is neatly clogged into the hole. With this work, there is a certain subtlety: it is practically no possible to drill a hole in the bar under the screw in such a way that it would definitely match the dubel in the wall.

Therefore, they come on the opposite scenario: apply the timing to the wall and the hole is drilled first in the drill under the screw when the drill is formed in a bar through a hole, it outlines on the wall just the place where
You can already safely drill a hole under the dowel. When all the holes under this bar are drilled, dowels are drunk, the bar again applied to the wall and is already firmly screwed with screws.
If you mount a massive bar, you can immediately drill through holes through the timber brown, without drill. True, at the same time you have to use screws with large hats.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed - the rest of the design is mounted between them.

Laying of sound insulation material into the spaistics of the crate

At the same time, it is necessary to perform non-hard rules: the lamp should be evenly distributed over the wall,
Excluding extensive voids. In places where an increased load is assumed to the surface of the walls (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.) must be strengthened.
As a rule, one each sheet of drywall is needed at least two vertical bars. Vertical bars are mounted in increasing about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of plasterboard will be mounted - should be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal jacks of drywall are amplified by additional horizontal bars. The same needs to be done with the crate of any openings or holes - they are doing the perimeter.
The main task is to ensure the location of all the external parties to the crate in the same plane can be solved in two ways.
The first - a cord and the remaining structural elements are used between two vertical bars, in such a way that the cord is slightly touching the outer side.
The second way is to set additional horizontal bars from above and below, using the rule to ensure their location in one plane with vertical bars.
Now applied the rest of the doom.

Ready Wooden Frame with Mineral Wool Isolation

The next step is mounted insulating layer. Materials that are used: foam plastic, mineral wool, foam rubber or combination of these materials.
Inaccessible places are processed by mounting foam.

You can learn about the technique of mounting drywall on a metal frame.

It is necessary to ensure the maximum dense filling of the intrauterine space is insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not be for the plane of the crate, as it will make it difficult for the next installation of plasterboard.

Ready wall cladding with ceiling frame

Finally, you can start the final stage of the work - installation of sheets of plasterboard. Installation starts with entire sheets. Screws screw off at a distance of 15-20 cm. From the edge of the sheet, with a step of 30-40 cm.
When screwing screws should be followed by the degree of effort, not allowing the breakdown of the thread - scrolling the screw.

Firmware with plasterboard sheets

Facing the walls of plasterboard is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. Glk allows you to level the walls and ceilings. The method is distributed when the sheets are mounted on a frame of wooden rails or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to mount plasterboard straight to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can not be installed. The alignment of the walls of plasterboard without a frame is performed on almost even bases of different types. The photo below shows the room with gyproke and ceilings covered.

The mounting of drywall to the wall without a profile is the optimal option for smooth surfaces. The degree of deviation from the plane plays a major role. The frameless way of cladding walls is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are more, then often install the crate.

Hyroxes are fixed on uneven planes using lighthouses. Due to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately by level. Without lighthouses, you can mount, having a lot of experience or on small areas.

Control the degree of curvature of the foundation can be using a construction level and a long rule.

Existing methods for fastening drywall to the wall without profile allow you to mount it on different types of surfaces. Bashed sheets possible:

• to a brick wall;
• on partitions from porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, seven, slagoblock and plastered;
• on wooden surface.

Installation of GLK on foam concrete

Sticking sheets on the basis of foam concrete is shown in the photo above.

The decoration of the walls of plasterboard without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

• this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
• save funds also on its installation (if it was planned to attract a specialist);
• the volume of the room is practically not reduced;
• the timing of facing works is reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

Surfaces that are planned to sew plasterboard sheets are presented by the following requirements:

• the base should be durable, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
• it is required that the wall surface is protected from moisture exposure.

If you are using a sticking method, then it is recommended to remove the old paint, pollutants (dust, oil spots).

The big plus walls of the walls of the plasterboard without a frame, with their own hands, is that the process is faster and easier than when necessary to pre-create a crate.

Preparatory activities

Before mounting the wall, this material without profiles should determine which thickness to choose plasterboard, prepare the required tools. Everything necessary for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only at certain methods of installation of HCL. GIPS

The photo above shows a bag of plaster glue used for drywall to glue it.

In the work, do not do without a stepladder, or other adaptation for high-altitude work.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

• the temperature during the work should exceed +10 degrees, so at lower values \u200b\u200bit is required to take care of the heating organization;
• it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room are dry;
• in the presence of high humidity in the rooms use moisture-proof types of facing material;
• before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lay the day 3 indoors;
• the base for the installation of the hypot should be holistic, not collapsed, otherwise it will be necessary to pre-strengthen.

From how the preparation was carried out correctly, the quality of the result was directly dependent. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, it will not be necessary to be distracted during operation. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finish.

Methods for fastening GCL without installation of frame

Practically used several ways to align the walls with plasterboard without a frame. They differ used for this materials and work technology. The use of the frameless method allows you to strip the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fastening sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used to fix plasterboard without mounting the crate. But the various materials are used. This is how to mount the sheets:

• self-drawing (on wood) or dowels;
• glue, "liquid nails", mounting foam.

Application of mounting foam

Above in the photo shows the application of the mounting foam onto the sheet, to then fasten it on the wall.

General scheme of work at any installation method:

• prepare the basis;
• mix plasterboard;
• close the joints.

Additional strengthening events are not required. Mounting methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued cladding can additionally fix with self-drawers or dowels.

Depending on the subsequent facing of the surface, the surface can be put on and then grind and primed.

The selection of one or another option is defined as personal preferences, as well as even and material from which partitions are built. So, plasterboard to the concrete wall (level) is glued or fixed with dowels. An aligned wooden surface is trimmed using selflessness.

Method of fixing with self-draws, dowels

The walls of the walls of plasterboard without a frame using selflessness is possible in the presence of a base from suitable for this material: from wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of such actions:

• remove the existing protrusions: wooden partitions are aligned, having shredding them with a hatchet, or a rock with a hammer, and the walls of foam concrete (gypsum) - a perforator with an inserted chisel;
• plasterboard sheets are fixed in 25-35 cm increments, using the chess order of their location on the surface of the base, methizations with a length of 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm (on a flat surface of the tree) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fastening the hypongy self-assembly

After twisting with the help of a screwdriver, the self-suite hat should be slightly "recessed" in the facing coating.

The photo below shows the process of fixing on a wooden ceiling of a plasterboard fragment.

It should be borne in mind that the strong tightening of hardware in the location of the depression causes the deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets do not reach, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the design being created will not decrease.

When screwing in the wall is impossible to screw in the wall (the base of concrete, brick, slag block), then the alignment of the walls of the walls with plasterboard without a profile are performed using the slanting dowels for mounting. Their length in non-speaking surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then 6x80 hardware is used or 8x100 mm.

The technology consists of the following operations:

• using a perforator or hammer with a chisel, the base is aligned, removing defective sections;
• when the sheet is installed, then the hole is drilled through it;
• paste the plastic part;
• score or twisted the core of metal, lattaya under the sheer cap;
• thus, we are trimmed, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate under the head of the metal core can be made of P-shaped attachment for the profile. For this, it is cut into the plates with scissors for metal.

In places, Vpadin do not finish the core, so that the sheet is not bent.

When all sheets are attached, then embark on the seams. With smooth surfaces of the base, the use of hardware allows you to quickly enjoy the room or office room.

Technology gluing

To align the walls of the walls, plasterboard for glue is usually used, in addition to plaster compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails". Homemade solutions are also used, for example, on the basis of putty and PVA. Different techniques for applying compositions on the surface of the material being installed.

Before starting to mount drywall to the wall, it should be prepared in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

• the working area is cleaned of the old finish (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
• close up of cracks;
• apply two layers a primer composition;
• dowels are clogged in the corners (screws screwed);
• using a plumb or level, stretch between them threads (thin ropes);
• in the selected square, underlying 90 ° relative to the floor, consider surface irregularities;
• when detecting deviations, more than 2 cm harvest the substrate from fragments from the material being installed (sufficient width of pieces - 10 cm);
• make marking for fixed plasterboard sheets on the wall without a frame.

When the arrangement of fragments, the gaps between the edges of the GCC and the floor (0.7-1 cm) are taken into account, the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm). Open areas (communications) are also taken into account when marking.

For marking, it is convenient to use the laser level.

To attach plasterboard to the wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. This is done for this:

• stretch along the level of horizontally threads with a step of 50 cm;
• under them (also after half a meter), beacons-cakes from glue are applied;
• control the level of thread;
• they give beacons to dry before attaching plasterboard on the walls without a frame.

In the role of lighthouses, you can also use bands from the height of the room in the height of the room, glued after 50 cm vertically. In addition to guide functions, they serve as stopping points for leakable GLCs.

Options for aligning the base with glue

Below, the figure shows the variants of alignment of the walls of various curvature plasterboard when installing it with glue.

• expect to complete primer drying;
• fragmentary adhesive mass (height, greater than 2 cm gap between the back side of the GLC and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other throughout the surface of the sheet;
• in the same way, the base is covered;
• pressed a plasterboard fragment against the wall;
• they bother with his rubber hammer to lean towards beacons.

Installation of GLC on adhesive compositions is considered a more complex and painstaking method, compared with the fixation of the dowels (self-drawing). It is recommended to use for surface treatment before sticking the primer compositions of deep penetration with antiseptic properties.

The use of mounting glue for fixing drywall is demonstrated in the roller further.

Installation using a mounting foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows both to align the wall with plasterboard without a profile and save funds at work and material. The figure of savings can reach almost 60% compared with the framework. The sheets secured on the selected technology will hold securely. Working on its own easier to perform and faster (especially on smooth bases) than using the crate.

Articles on the topic:

Plasterboard - probably the most popular sheet finishing material for residential premises. Traditionally, it is mounted on the crate or frame from the bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to tell about how the plasterboard mount looks like a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on the wall without crate.

Why plasterboard

pros

1. Why GLK is used to align and rough wall decoration?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

• The large leaf area reduces the time spent time;

Help: Standard HCL-size sheet with a size of 2500x1200 mm has an area of \u200b\u200b3 square meters. The area of \u200b\u200bthe 3000x1200 size is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard sizes and weight GKK.

• Plasterboard penetrate air and water vapor. This means that indoors will not be stuffy even with the windows closed. Of course, provided that capital walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of the building structures should always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering a water vapor to the street, the owner will receive its cluster in the thickness of the wall. Moisturization will contribute to the fall of thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the life of the walls and overlaps.

The dependence of the condition of the enclosing structures from the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishes.

• The price of Leaf Glk looks very attractive against the background of plaster. In the Crimean rates, plastering the square meter of the wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-fatty drywall with an area of \u200b\u200b3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, in contrast to its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
• The surface of the GLC is compatible with any tiled adhesives and is suitable for wallpaper stickers on any wallpaper glue. All, without exception, putty also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of the plasterboard sheet;
• From the related material - the gypsumless sheet of plasterboard is favorably with the fact that even with cracks of the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper hold it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to align the walls under the condition of reliable fastening of the fault area.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling the arches: GLC is notched and nuts, then its surface is aligned with shtcloth.

Minuses

1. Does Glk have a disadvantage that it is useful to know the buyer?

I would polish correctly called them not disadvantages, but the characteristics of the material:

• All materials based on plaster are not friendly with water. Yes, G Clac (moisture-resistant plasterboard) tolerates dampness due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and anti-grapple additives in the gypsum, but direct contact with water is contraindicated and;

However: the problem is successfully solved using the premises of materials impermeable for water in finishing. In my bathroom, plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to carry constant contact with water splashes and periodic wet cleaning with the use of any non-abrasive cleaning agents.

The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

• GKK has very limited strength. Randomly hit the wall of plasterboard when carrying furniture, it can be blocked through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their painting on the frame is usually made two-layer; However, the installation to the wall without a profile implies the installation of the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
• On the plasterboard partition or the capital wall after aligning the GLK, it is problematic to hang a shelf or wardrobe. Of course, this problem has a decision on which I will tell in the relevant section of the article; However, the comparison with the capital wall for the convenience of mounting mounted furniture Our material clearly loses.

Cabinets easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Installation without a profile

Than profitable

1. Why do you need installation of plasterboard on the wall without a profile?

There is at least two good reasons for this:

• Reduced installation costs. The average gypsum glue glue consumption, which (slightly running forward) is used for mounting drywall on capital walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all works are performed with their own hands) will be only 285/6 \u003d 47.5 rubles;

Glue Gypsum Perlfix. Packaging - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

Clarify: In practice, the consumption of glue can noticeably grow with significant irregularities of the base. In addition, I did not learn the cost of the wall of the wall (however, very minor).

At the same time, for mounting the same sheet on the crate of the ceiling profile, it is necessary:

Obette under gypsum galvanized profile.

According to the most humane prices from the prices found (they are offered by the Internet - Lerua Merlen store) This set will cost about 250 rubles;

• In addition, the fastening of plasterboard on the wall without profiles will noticeably increase the free space of the room. Let's execute another simple counting: we learn how much space the frame takes place at an average distance from the wall to the GLC leaf in 5 centimeters and the size of the room is 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4 + 4 + 5 + 5 \u003d 18 meters; The total area of \u200b\u200bthe gap between the wall and plasterboard - 18 m x 0.05 m \u003d 0.9 m2. Without a small 1/20 area of \u200b\u200bthe room will be inaccessible for use only due to the crate.

If glue is glued directly onto the walls, the costs of the useful area will be limited only by the size of irregularities on the capital wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

1. How to find out if it is possible to mount the GLK directly on the wall?

Everything is simple: if the curvilinence, the blockage or wall drops do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without a crate. If the size of irregularities is greater, it is better to collect the framework of the profile: the costs of funds and space of the room will be comparable or will change in favor of mounting on the crate.

The long rule and level will help evaluate the curvilinestity and lounge of the walls.

1. Which walls can be attached to the plasterboard without crate?

Different methods for fastening drywall to the wall without profile allow for installation:

• On capital walls and partitions made of bricks, limestone, sewer, concrete (panels and monolitha), gas and foam concrete;
• On wooden partitions (frame and boarding, plastered and unsuccessful).

Partitions in Stalinki - board, plastered along duch.

Technology

On self-tapping

1. How to install plasterboard on a wooden partition in Stalin?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the GLC can be fixed with self-drawing directly to the surface of the wall. When finishing the walls in the kitchen one of his old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; Because of its thickness, the screws had to be used 70 mm long.

1. Which screws to use?

Black phosphatated. Wood or GLC - anyway: they differ only in the thread rate. Self-tapping screws on GVL and plasterboard have a smaller step, thanks to which the sheet is harder to sell a hat through.

1 - Self-tapping screws on plasterboard and GVL, 2 - Self-tapping screw.

1. What to screw the screws?

Only a screwdriver - rechargeable or eating from the network. After screwing out hundreds of self-tapping screws on one sheet of drywall, it feels with a screwdriver, just say, not very good.

Rechargeable screwdriver for works with plasterboard.

1. Whether it is necessary to reinstall the seams in this way of installation?

It is necessary, because with the oscillations of moisture and temperature, the geometry of wooden partitions will inevitably change. About how to do it, I will tell a little later.

1. How to align the wall with plasterboard without a profile if it is composed of brick or foam blocks? How to fix GLK?

It can be attached:

• On the already mentioned gypsum glue;
• On the mounting foam;

Installation foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

• If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction glue.

On glue

1. How to attach plasterboard to the wall without a profile with liquid nails?

• The base is planning from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesive coatings;
• The protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
• The wall is ground throughout the acrylic penetrating soil area. It is necessary to primitive twice without intermediate drying. The soil sticks the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the delays of the GOK along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a spray, a roller with a long pile or a soft wide brush;

The primer of the capital wall under the GCL sticker.

• After the complete drying of the soil of recesses in the wall width of more than 10 centimeters is sealed with cement - sandy solution. You can use a homemade solution from portland cement and sainted sand in the proportion of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
• Sealing after drying is reheated;
• After the complete drying of the soil on the back surface of the leaf of plasterboard, glue is applied with stripes. Step between stripes - 10-15 cm;

So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.

• The sheet is tightly pressed against the wall and maintains several sloping boards at different heights.

On foam

1. How to fix plasterboard with mounting foam?

From liquid nails and other construction adhesives of foam differs in two features:

• It fills out all the deposits in the wall. If so, they can not be embedded - it is enough to remove the protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
• Foam expands when setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet relative to the wall by 30 - 60 minutes after its stickers.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

• Putting a sheet to the wall and rested by a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill on a sheet and wall at an equal distance from each other 8 holes under the dowel-screw-screw in size of approximately 8x80 mm;
• Apply on the back side of the foam sheet - point in 20 cm increments or strips around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
• Press the sheet to the wall and secure it with a dowel-screws. Their caps do not need to stir below the surface level, as when mounting on the frame: After setting the foam, the screws can be removed or, on the contrary, turn to the level of the overhaul and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on the mounting foam and are fixed by dowel-screws during its grasp.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or rule and plumb. Dowel-screws will not allow plasterboard to be involved in the direction from the wall, and the bending in the opposite direction will prevent the expansion of the mounting foam.

On plaster glue

1. How to mount plasterboard on the wall without a profile on plaster glue?

First of all: for this purpose it is not only specialized glue (perlfix, wall assembly, etc.), but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities are also practically different.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.

Works and in this case begin with the preparation of the wall. It should be cleaned of pollution, dustded and truncated by penetrating acrylic soil by twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as:

• In a wide capacity with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture, glue, plaster or spacure. They are uniformly distributed on the surface of the water uniformly;

Dry mixture is covered in water. If we pour water into the gypsum glue, there will be many dry lumps on the bottom of the container.

• Then the future glue is withstanding 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum amount of dry mixture should have a water;
• The mixture is stirred manually (spatula or trowel) or mixer. A drill with the appropriate nozzle is suitable. It is necessary to interfere with the mixture to obtain a homogeneous consistency without lumps.

The glue can be applied to the wall with equal success, and the leaf itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply on the wall: GLC already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue is made quite solid and uncomfortable to move. The glue should be applied with nonsense in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; A solid roller is needed only at the plunth level - it will noticeably simplify its fastening of a dowel screw.

So plaster glue is applied to the surface of the GLC.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and is aligned with the level and rules in the vertical plane. Additional fixation to him, as a rule, is not needed: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bending of the GCC are adjusted by light impacts of the palm or rubber xy.

By the way: I used the same method for fastening the plasterboard when finishing door and window slopes. As adhesion, the final gypsum spacing of the EUROGIPS was used.

The slopes of the doorway in the photo are decorated with plasterboard planted at the finishing putty Eurogips.

Pair of nuances:

• When installing adjacent sheets, you need to pay special attention to the mutual position of their edges. The drops will have to remove the thick layer of putty, which unreasonably increases the costs of funds and time to finish;

The edges of the adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

• On a curvilinear wall with significant drops, it is necessary to pre-stick on the same gypsum glue or on the putty lighthouses from the Crimping of GLC. For the same purpose, you can use and partially screwed into the wall of a dowel screw; The position of the sheet is adjusted by screwing and unscrewing into several revolutions.

Sheets are aligned in the same plane using improvised lighthouses.

Sealing seams and shtchelivation

1. How to close the seams between adjacent sheets?

Plasterboard (even moisture-resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with moisture oscillations. The same thing happens when the temperature changes: no one has canceled the thermal extension. Periodic changes in the size of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks on the seams separating them.

A few years after the decoration of the room on the seams without reinforcement, cracked appeared.

So that the seams are not cracked, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, the serpent is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive firmware with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which he is filled with putty right through the grid.

Reinforcement seam serpanka.

Seam puts off at least two passages. The first passage of the seam cavity is filled with putty, the reinforcing seam of the fox is served. Sometimes it takes the third passage: putty when drying gives a small, but noticeable shrinkage, and shov after grasping looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty have several subtleties:

• She is preparing in small portions. The specific size of the single portion of the putty depends on your shtlock skills. It seems to me convenient to use for no more than one and a half kilograms of a dry mix;

Spaklyka is preparing in small portions. The time of life of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

• Wash dishes and spatulas need before the preparation of each new portion. Otherwise, the old putty forms solid lumps in solution. These lumps, when applied to putty on GLCs, will leave untidy furrows in it;
• To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spreader width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; In this case, both of its parties turn out to be filled with putty as much as possible and tightly;

The edges of the sheets cut down in front of the splock are separated by a sharp knife.

• The second (covering) layer of putty is applied by movement along the seam with a spatula width of 30-35 centimeters. The putty is pre-superimposed on it by a narrow spatula.

I like it more to rein the seam not with sickle, but a roll glass: due to the smaller thickness of the seam material, it is less released on the surface of adjacent sheets. The glass cholester is a dense mesh and does not allow filling the seam through it, so the reinforcement technology is noticeably different from the above described:

• Seam is filled with putty (taking into account her shrinkage during drying - twice);
• Then a glassball is pasted along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in proportion 1: 1 pva. It is applied to the glass cholester with a wide brush laid on top of the trimming of drywall;

Rolled glass. Due to the lesser thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to the sickle.

Glass coolers for stickers are more convenient to cut slices about a meter.

• The reinforcing tape is pressed to the seam and smoothes with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with bare hands, there will be a lot of the finest wreckage of fiberglass. These non-founded are not very painful and quickly come out, but significantly interfere with the work;
• After drying the glue (it takes no more than an hour) the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and grind.

1. Do you need to put the entire surface of the plasterboard?

This is not necessarily, but preferably. The putty creates a separation layer on the surface, allowing you to open the wallpaper if necessary, without sliding the upper layer of kraft paper. In addition, the surfaces of the surface reliably disguises the stitching seams.

Wallowing plaster walls walls.

To align the angles, it is convenient to use a special corner spatula.

The surfaces of the surface is easiest to perform two layers "on the Sadir": the putty is superimposed by a narrow spatula on a wide and flashed to the GLC sliding movements as a thin layer. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

There should be at least two weeks between the shtocking of drywall and the painting walls of paint on a water basis. During this time, the residues of moisture completely abandon the seams. If you hurry from painting, the seams will be isolated with a dark tone with any number of dye layers.

1. How to perform grinding?

I use a vibration grinder with grinding grids (first pass) and №120 (second pass) for this purpose. It is best to grind at the most bright light directed under the oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to discarded or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibration grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to the manual grater.

Do not be lazy to wear safety glasses and a gauze bandage or respirator. Gypsum dust is very annoying eyes and mucous.

Comes! Do not neglect individual protection!

Hinged furniture

1. How to fix on the plasterboard plasterboard mounted shelf or locker?

If the wall is covered with the GLC on self-drawing or saved using construction glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use conventional dowel screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue mean that a gap remains between the sheet and the capital wall, allowing to wash the plasterboard during installation.

At the stitching stage, the problem is solved in two ways:

• In the place of the alleged attachment of mounted furniture on the back of the GLC or on the wall, a solid layer of plaster glue, plaster or putty is applied;

The more often the glue pellets are applied, the greater the load will be withstanding.

• The GLK plot is cut off, and instead it is mounted on the wall to the wall, a wooden mortgage detail of the corresponding thickness is mounted.

The last way will work in the event that the plasterboard is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the mortgage part and cut down the gypsum glue, after which the mortgage from the bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, for attaching mounted furniture directly through drywall and the gap between it and the capital wall, elongated anchors with a pair of additional nuts on the thread can be used. Fastening corners of lockers are clamped between these nuts.

For fastening the locker, a wedge anchor is enough to supply a pair of additional nuts.

For light shelves, you can use molly anchors. They are held only on plasterboard.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help a respected reader in the finishing of their own housing. As always, I will be grateful for your comments and additions. Additional information to your attention will offer video in this article. Successes, Camrads!

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No repairs in our time do without plasterboard. The walls are constantly shedding with this material, various designs are made of it and the ceilings are finished. As a rule, for mounting plasterboard sheets, the frame is pre-mounted on which the material is fixed. However, more and more people are striving to attach plasterboard to the wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But is it possible to mount plasterboard straight to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced masters recommend mounting a metal or wooden frame and then fasten the hypochemicals on it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install plasterboard on the walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think about everything several times and unless if the decision does not have an alternative to begin the case, since the fastening of the GLC without a framework is only for the sake of savings may increase in the future. Carnate gyroxes in this way you can, for example, if you are repaired in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal the precious area.

One of the exotic ways to mount the gyroxes without a profile is to glue it to the mounting foam.

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the HL or GVL wall directly, you need to comply with a number of necessary conditions, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly even, that is, not even the slightest slopes. There are situations where the wall is not exactly exactly and in such cases is carried out, partial installation of the framework. Metal profiles in such an embodiment are only an alignment for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the plasterboard sheet. The problem here is that when installing plasterboard sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along the transverse metal profiles. If you are creating sheets at once on the wall, then you should not have transverse junctions at all, since it is not for what will be attached to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, that is, the option to align its starting putty, which should be pre-added from ten to fifteen percent of the gypsum. For fastening of drywall, it is recommended to use the finished glue mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as one solid strip in its center.

If irregularities are much larger, then instead of a frame profile, you can use drywall lighthouses. They are plasterboard cut by squares or rectangles of ten - twenty centimeters and serve to align the wall with plasterboard sheets without a frame.

After the adhesive mixture is driving, drywall sheets are again attached to the dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are attached so that they enter the wall at least at forty millimeters.

After the final installation of sheets was performed, it is necessary to implement the spacure of the connecting seams, as well as sample the grid.

Video on the topic

Required tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

• A knife, with replaceable blades for cutting plasterboard sheets;
• Electric jigsaw or saw to work with plasterboard;
• Durable thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
• Nails or screws;
• Building level;
• Simple pencil;
• Plumb;
• Shabers to clean the edges of the plasterboard sheet;
• Drill, whine and bucket to dissolve and stir the solution;
• Putty knife. It is better to take two spatula - wide and narrow;
• Rubber hammer;
• Ordinary hammer;
• Pliers;
• Cross screwdriver.

Let's also consider the materials to be used during the work.

• Plasterboard sheets;
• Glue for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use starting putty if you add ten percent of gypsum or PVA glue;
• Water;
• Primer;
• Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
• Serpenta;
• Glue.

Picture to mount

If you are going to get a plasterboard with a wall of brick or concrete, then it is pre-clean and sprayed with a solution. Then the surface must be projected. Dilute the soil must be strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If de on the package it is written that the primer is ready for work, then nothing needs to be breeding. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If the old plaster has been preserved on the wall, it is discouraged to look at it to reveal weak points and treat them with a solution, and then the primer.

It is categorically impossible to fix plasterboard sheets to the walls in such rooms in which constant dampness. And it is also impossible to carry out this type of repair, if condensate remains on the walls of the room. It is seriously harmful to fasten sheets. In such premises, it is necessary to use special moisture resistant plasterboard and secure it only on the frame.

Before securing plasterboard, it is necessary to conduct an inspection at the subject of deviations from the vertical and in the target. If it seems possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions to smell with a solution to ideally align the surface before starting the installation.

Already after the primer, with the help of a pencil or chalk, a markup is applied on the wall. If you do it before primer, all drawings are simply wondering. Plasterboard sheets, from the mounting side to the wall you also need to smear the primer before the mount. Lighthouses need to be cut from plasterboard sheets and lubricate with primer on both sides.

If there is a need for this, the installation of electrical wiring becomes the next installation phase. In cases where the wire should pass on the walls of the wall, it must be drown in drywall. To do this, you will have to do special grooves on a sheet.

Fasteners on a flat and curve surface

If the wall surface is relatively smooth, then you do not have to use beacons. Use a mixer to dilute dry powder in water and make glue. If you do not have a mixer, you can make glue manually, but then the process will take much more time and strength.

If you decide to add PVA glue into putty, then for starters in the water you need to make glue, and then fall asleep dry powder. If you do on the contrary, the putty will quickly freeze and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it will not be able to use it for its intended purpose.

Apply glitter on drywall sheets follows one solid strip throughout the perimeter on all edges. The center of the sheet also needs to be applied several pellets from the solution in a checker order. The distance between the pellets should be about forty centimeters. To fastening it is quite reliable, you need to deceive with glue more than the tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet.

Olympus Digital Camera.

Fixed sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pushed to the wall. Best of all, if someone will help you, since one process is done to one problem. Check how firmly the sheet is fixed. If you have any doubts, then press it stronger in those places where the backlog occurs. It is to take into account such a subsequent adjustment, a sufficient solution is applied to the sheet. If the solution is not enough, then the theoretically, the sheet can be passed, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the drywall leaf is simply broken down.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, you will have to use beacons. Use a durable thread to make a network indicating the desired vertical and plane. Next occurs the installation of beacons in the right places. It is necessary to establish them so that they touch the thread frame. Then plasterboard sheets are attached in the same way as in the first version. After that, the problem places will fasten with dowels, and take it out the seams with a putty and sulfyan.

If you are creating drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a trim, it is enough to fasten sheets to the wall with self-draws or screws. If the wooden wall is not smooth, it is fixed by overlaying additional wooden linings, and all the convexities can be removed by the usual brangle.

As you can see, there are different ways to install drywall sheets, but the most reliable way to install HCL is an installation on a metal frame. Just so the sheets will hold enough.

Successful perception of repair and construction work. Even the most exquisite finish finish materials will lose all their gloss against the background of the depression or hillocks of wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of walls during repair can be considered a priority. For its execution, plasterboard is not suitable for it.

GLK, as the finishing material does not need special advertising. Moisture-proof, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture-resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, ordinary for residential rooms.

Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow you to use this material with almost no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready and pasting with wallpaper, and the application of textured plaster, and to laying the tile.

There are two ways to attach GCL to the walls - frame and frameless.

1. The first option is much more suitable for large rooms where there is no limit space. The framework of profiles and the plasterboard mounted on it takes at least 40 mm of the floor and the ceiling at each wall (27mm - profile + 12.5 mm - GKL).
2. The frameless method allows you to fix plasterboard sheets directly on the vertical surface of the room or office. In addition to the conservation of space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame - 60% of the cost of the walls mounted from GCL.

There are three options for frameless installation of plasterboard sheets on the walls:

• Fastening sheets by self-draws.
• Installation of GKL dowels.
• Prix \u200b\u200bplasterboard.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding to align the walls with plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to make a general analysis of the estimated activities and choose the method of their incarnation.

The overall assessment of the situation includes:

• Check vertical walls. It is performed using a level or plumb.
• Examination of the wall plane. Performed with a long rule or stretched cord. The presence of bugro and depression is revealed.
• Check outdoor and internal angles. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often it is 90 degrees). The tool most often serves as a square.
• Evaluation of door and window openings. Vertical and horizontal verification is performed and the need to adjust the outlook using GLC is determined.

Depending on the detection and status of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be eliminated, fixing the sheets of plasterboard directly to the existing walls. Large differences and irregularities will require either a frame, or the installation of GLCs on special glue.

Installation of plasterboard sheets by self-draws

This embodiment is possible only if there is a base in which screws-screws are possible. It may be wood, aerated concrete blocks or gypsum partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will be to remove protruding sections of the plane of the walls. The wooden base tuberca is aligned with the hammer and the chisel, it is also possible to use the Topor. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to treat a puncher with a chisel.

Plasterboard sheets are attached in a checkerboard. Self-tapping screws are served by the fastening. The length of the screws varies depending on the material of the walls. For the facing of a relatively smooth wooden surface, a self-tapping screw is 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm.

Self-timing screws 3.9x45 mm are used to mount HCL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the heating head of the methization. It is considered normal if the screw plunged into plasterboard by 1 - 2 mm. Fastening step of about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at his center.

Special attention should be paid to the places of attachment of GLK in areas - depudes. Strongly tightened screws simply deform plasterboard. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the irregularities of the walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to reach hardware, leaving a small space between the base and sheets. It will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of spitels for alignment will noticeably reduce.

Fastening GLC Dowels

If you cannot screw the screws in the walls and partitions, it is possible to mount drywall on a dowel. For non-speaking brick, concrete and slag block bases, clogged dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the layer of plaster reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

Preparation of landing places to install the dowels is carried out by a perforator with a brown of the corresponding diameter. The hole is drilled through the plasterboard sheet mounted on the installation site. Plastic clip must have the ending in the form "Pate".

Metal core is desirable to tweet or screwdriver. Sometimes spinning self-sufficiency does not work and have to resort to the help of a hammer. At the same time, it is advisable under the head of the screw to put a homemade washer - gasket. Make such washers can be made from the P-shaped bracket for GKC. For this, the bracket is cut by metal scissors for several plates, and in already existing holes, the self-extext has been done.

As in the case of the installation of sheets on a self-tapping screw, a problem venue can be depressed on the plane of walls and partitions. Remedy recipe - notep a dowel core until it stops.

Installation of plasterboard on adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking method of alignment of the walls of plasterboard without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

1. Examination of the leveling surface. Includes the definition of protruding places of walls and women. In these areas, the amount of glue applied will be minimal. Identifying sites with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned.
2. Preparation of the surface to install.Mechanical removal of old wallpapers, tiles, detached plaster. Nothing of places of walls covered with oil or pentafulatory paints.
3. Grinding walls and partitions. It is better to use deep penetration primer as soil. Concrete contact can be used for paint areas.
4. Installation of lighthouses. The main task of such an event is to create the rear point of the GLC. Lanes can serve as plastic robes of dowels with screws screwed into them. Hardware heads should create a plane on which plasterboard will be mounted.
5. Installation of plasterboard sheets.The special adhesive mass is superimposed on the wall and in GLC. The glue is applied with a solid layer, but fragmentary. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height of 15-20 mm is greater between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is verified by the rule with the level.
After a distance to mount the suspensions for the profile to the wall