Installation of a massive board on plywood. Correct laying of a solid board Methods of laying a solid board on plywood

Now laying solid planks has become easier, faster and cheaper thanks to the appearance of a unique adhesive backing, which has thermal, moisture and sound insulation properties.

Adhesive surface provides good adhesion, and the elastic properties of the backing do not allow the board to move.

Installation of the flooring itself is done without the use of glue, nails or staples, but requires special skills for laying on adhesive materials.

Advantages of laying on an adhesive backing:

Fast and relatively easy installation
No glue, plywood, nails
Saving on laying costs up to 3-5 times
Excellent thermal, moisture and noise insulation
Smoothes out unevenness of the base
Elastic properties prevent the board from shifting with seasonal changes in air humidity
Service life over 25 years

The process of laying a solid board in a "floating" way on an adhesive backing.

An example of "floating" laying of a solid board on a 360º adhesive backing

The requirements for a quality floor are simple:

it should not swell, sag, creak, "disperse"
should be flat
serve without repair for a long time.

An adhesive backing is ideal for this.

Thanks to its unique structure, the adhesive backing has a long service life, levels out small permissible irregularities in the floor surface and provides an effective and economical solution to the problem of improving the heat and sound insulation properties of floors.

The underlay is environmentally friendly and retains its properties throughout the life of the floor covering.

P.S. But with all the advantages of this styling method, we strongly recommend that you contact a specialist and do not install it yourself. With the seeming simplicity of installation, skills of installation are required in both “floating” and “classical” ways, and if you are installing for the first time, mistakes simply cannot be avoided.

Choose a solid wood decor for laying on an adhesive backing

See all characteristics of the adhesive half-tray

Select adhesive backing in the catalog

Preparing the room before laying solid boards

Laying of massive boards is carried out at the final stage of the repair of the premises. This will minimize the risk of damage and deformation. And therefore, work on the installation of floors from a solid board should be started only after the windows, doors have been installed and the walls are aligned, the rough floor has been prepared and all wet work has been completed.

It is very important that the wallpaper, plaster, paint, concrete dry thoroughly, and the humidity in the room does not exceed 40-60%.

At the same time, the moisture content of the solid board should not be more than 12%.

However, the last remark about the moisture content of a massive board of 12% is purely theoretical, because you still cannot reduce it and this indicator reflects the quality of production.

According to our research on the products on the market, the moisture content of solid oak or ash boards (and other European species) is 12-15%, and that of exotic species, the wood of which is processed in tropical countries, is about 18%. This is partly why European breeds are inherently more stable in our climate.

It is imperative that all existing air conditioning and heating systems be activated in the room before the start of laying the solid board.

The air temperature should be maintained within the range of 18-22 ° C, and for at least seven days before the start of laying the solid board.

If the laying of massive boards is planned on the ground floor directly above the basement, then it should be thoroughly ventilated.

Requirements for the quality of the subfloor for a solid board

The subfloor on which the parquet board will be laid should be as even as possible, which can be achieved by leveling grinding.

The maximum permissible deviation when leveling walls and screeds should not be more than 2 mm for every 2 m.

Leveling the subfloor is the most important condition when laying solid planks and any parquet.

If you do not achieve a perfectly flat surface, the solid board will begin to creak in a couple of years due to the movement of the floorboards relative to each other. The creak of a solid board is always a consequence of an uneven floor, and not of low-quality material.

It is very important to clean the sub-floor of small debris and dirt.

Remove shavings, small nails, remnants of building materials, dust, grease and glue stains from it.

The difference in humidity between the subfloor and the solid board laid on top of it should not be more than 4%. In this case, the moisture content of the subfloor itself should not exceed 12%. It is possible to achieve the setting of the required humidity values by thoroughly ventilating the room and eliminating possible unwanted sources of moisture.

Sometimes air dryers can help solve this problem.

In addition, you need to make sure that there is no movement in the subfloor. If necessary, the sub-floor is additionally reinforced to eliminate them.

How to properly unpack and prepare a solid board for laying

In order to save yourself from unnecessary problems in the future, you should properly unpack and prepare a massive board for laying.

Remember that a solid board already laid by a master is considered to be of acceptable quality and, even if there are defects, cannot be returned.

After the solid board has been unpacked, it should be carefully inspected and sorted by pattern and color, planning in advance how it will be laid on the subfloor.

To create the most harmonious interior, set aside the boards that will best match the skirting boards and thresholds for installation next to them. Decide which boards you will be using for trimming, and where.

The unpacked and sorted solid board must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it is planned to be laid for at least three days.

The same applies to all materials that will be used during the installation of solid wood flooring. Their moisture content should not exceed 12% (theoretically), but it is desirable to be in the range of 6-10%.

True, it is worth noting that today on the market you cannot find a massive board with a moisture content of 6-10%, even the most expensive and exclusive. Alas, manufacturers are not ready to slow down the pace of production in order to create the perfect material.

Methods for laying solid boards on various types of subfloors

1.
Laying massive boards to concrete slabs

First of all, a moisture-vapor barrier should be formed, which will serve as a buffer between concrete and wood. For this, a special 3 mm thick foamed polyethylene backing can be spread or a layer of ground mastic can be laid. The finished barrier will ensure the stability of the solid board and protect it from deformation.

After that, a base is arranged for flooring a massive board, which can be done in two ways.

The first method is “screed lags”.

According to this technology, as a base for a massive board, wooden blocks of rectangular cross-section - logs. Such bars are attached to the concrete base using dowels and screws, which are inserted perpendicular to the future floor. Alternatively, if there is a danger of damaging the communications under the concrete screed, you can glue the logs onto glue or bitumen-containing mastic.

The distance between the attachment points should be no more than 50 cm. After laying, the bars are leveled using a level. To adjust the height of the log, chips are placed or an excess tree is removed with a plane.

If desired, you can fill the space between the logs with thermal insulation materials. This is justified if the floor is laid on the first floor of a building that does not have a basement. Then a moisture-proof film is spread over the lag, which is fixed with staples. And already on top of it, a massive board is laid.

The photo shows the correct laying of plywood diagonally in relation to the solid board.
The size of the gaps should be between 3 and 5 mm.

The second method is laying on a plywood base along a screed.

Today, this is the most popular way of laying solid boards. According to this technology, moisture-resistant plywood is used as a base, the thickness of which should be 15-18 mm.

Before laying, plywood sheets are cut into strips with a width of 40 to 60 cm. Moreover, a whole plywood sheet is cut along the smaller of its sides. The finished strips are laid on concrete, diagonally to the future solid wood floor.

This leaves gaps: between sheets - 3-5 mm, between sheets and walls - 10 mm. It is important to understand that the plywood tiles should be spread with a shift relative to each other in order to minimize the possibility of contact of the corners. With the help of dowels and screws, the heads of which are recessed into the material, the plywood is attached to the concrete. In this case, there must be at least 9 attachment points for each strip.

An alternative option for attaching plywood to concrete is glue landing. One size of the stripes in this case should be at least half as much. Before laying the solid board, the plywood must be sanded with a belt sander equipped with a belt with a grain size of 40 or 60 and free of dust.

2.
Laying solid boards to supporting wooden structures

If the laying of massive boards is carried out in a building with load-bearing wooden structures, they can be used to attach the base to them for the future floor.

Before fixing the base under the floor, the existing logs must be leveled so that their maximum deviation from the plane does not exceed 2 mm by 2 m, otherwise the massive board will begin to creak over time.

Using a spirit level, remove excess wood with a planer or place wood chips in the right places.

As a base for a massive board, 12 mm plywood, 18 mm OSB boards or 20 mm plank flooring can be used. Plywood and OSB boards are laid on top of the moisture-proof film in the direction of the future floor from a massive board so that the edges of the boards dock on the logs, and not between them.

The gap between the sheets should be at least 2 mm, between the sheets and the wall - at least 10 mm, but not more than 15 mm, so that the opening can be closed with a plinth. Plywood and OSB boards are fastened by means of screws, of which there should be at least 9 pieces per sheet.

In this case, the heads of the screws must be sunk 3-4 mm into the material for possible subsidence of the plywood.

When used as a boarding base, the sub-floor details are laid diagonally to the future solid board floor.

3. Installation of a finished wooden floor

A solid, high-quality wood floor in the room should be sanded with a belt sander equipped with a 40 or 60 grit abrasive belt.

After that, you should clean the surface of the wooden floor from dust and fine debris. It is recommended to lay a solid board on top of a wooden floor in a diagonal or transverse direction.

Application of two-component polyurethane adhesives

The best adhesives for solid boards are polyurethane two-component, which are used by all installers.

There are many similar adhesives on the market, there are several fundamental differences:

Working time until glue thickens. The optimal time now indicated by the manufacturers of modern adhesives is 2.5, sometimes 3 hours. It is important to remember that this time is calculated for ideal conditions of temperature, humidity, as well as for the ideal composition inside the can. From can to can, the parameters of the glue itself may also vary slightly. In reality, you need to count on an hour and a half of glue work.
Glue base.
Benzene adhesives have a strong odor, but they fade faster. Alkyd adhesives are most often odorless, but all harmful fumes take a little longer to finish. Remember that glue that has a smell is by no means less environmentally friendly than one that does not smell - this is a common misconception. If the moment of smell is important for the installer, we recommend Tover Tovcol PU2C hypoallergenic adhesive.
Strength and elasticity of the adhesive.
These parameters are important for installation, however, the buyer will never know from the available product cards which glue is stronger. Trust the opinion of professional craftsmen or equally professional sellers.

Adhesives also have additional properties. For example, adhesives based on water or solvents shrink the parquet floor and transfer excess moisture to the solid board. Most adhesives, when they come into contact with the varnished surface of the parquet, leave stains, some compounds can be removed before hardening with a cloth without leaving a trace (for example, ADESIV Pelpren PL6).

All 2K adhesives require a wide-notched trowel - don't forget to buy.

Only such spatulas create the correct glue line.

So, before the installation itself, you need to thoroughly mix the two components of the glue with an electric mixer (an electric mixer allows you to do this efficiently and quickly, without reducing the working time of the glue).

Then you can pour out some of the glue from the jar and spread it with a spatula. Sometimes you can see how the glue is not spread on the base, but on each plank before gluing. Spreading the composition on the planks creates an insufficient adhesive layer, especially in the gaps between the planks, therefore this method is incorrect from the point of view of the adhesive manufacturers.

Correct glue line and correct use of the trowel.
Pay attention to how the trowel flexes when pressed against the base.

The spatula must be held strictly vertically and pressed a little into the floor - this is how the correct glue seam is created - glue grooves, from below there is only a thin film or a completely dry base.

Fastening solid wood boards to the base and to each other

To fasten a massive board to the base, self-tapping screws are used, the distance between which should be at least 20-30 cm.

Before that, from the side of the ridge, a massive board should be drilled at an angle of 45 degrees. There is no fundamental difference between which side of the planks to drill from, but theoretically it is more correct to drill into a tenon. Specialized SPAX solid wood screws are the most popular for this purpose and without any immediate competitors.

It is especially important to use specialized wood screws for high density exotic woods (however, pre-drilling is required for exotic dense woods).

Pulling the slats of the solid board to each other when screwing in with self-tapping screws.

It is very important to tightly attract the planks to each other when twisting and leave the necessary gap between the boards and walls (for most medium-sized rooms, exactly 1 cm).

Natural finish: solid board - DIY styling

To pull the planks to each other, carefully use a chisel or wedges if you have to press the spike. Or, more often than not, they knock the planks with a hammer through the block.

Professional parquet brigades often use a pneumatic gun with staples instead of self-tapping screws, which allows laying parquet much faster. This method is correct, however, it requires an initial investment in the purchase of a gun, a compressor and a stock of special brackets.

Too small a gap between the walls and the parquet when the wood expands does not allow the internal stress of the material to escape, which is fraught with cracking or swelling of the boards.

Too large a gap will be difficult to cover with conventional skirting boards.

The first row of a solid board is always laid with a groove to the wall. The fastening of the first and last rows with self-tapping screws is carried out through the front surface of the massive board. Subsequently, the attachment points are hidden under the skirting board.

Rules for grinding solid boards and applying a protective coating on it

For processing laid solid boards without factory coating, it is recommended to use disk and belt parquet grinders.

It is important to understand that for a solid board, light sanding is ideal, removing only the varnish coating. Scraping will remove the chamfer, therefore, with seasonal tapering of the wood, gaps will be visible on the floor surface.

At the end of sanding (if the solid board is uncoated), the surface of the solid board should be thoroughly cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner or brush.

The application of varnish or oil should be started on the same day. After drying, each layer is recommended to be sanded with a disc machine. It is recommended to apply 3 to 7 coats of varnish, which can take about 7 days. If you use a semi-gloss or glossy varnish, then in addition to strength, this affects the "specularity" of the board.

After sanding, the oil should be applied in 2-4 layers. Hard wax oil does not need maintenance if there is no visible deterioration in appearance. Traditional oil needs to be renewed every 1-2 years.

The final touch is the installation of the skirting board, which is carried out according to the recommendations of a particular skirting board manufacturer.

After that, the laying of solid wood floors can be considered complete.

What is a solid board
Preliminary work
Self-laying of an array of boards on a screed

Thanks to its respectable appearance and natural sophistication, solid wood flooring is considered the highest quality material among natural flooring.

It belongs to expensive products, but its advantages are undeniable. Today, the most commonly used and simplest way to create a floor is to lay a solid board on a screed without plywood.

Arrangement of the solid surface, like other wooden coatings, is carried out at the end of the repair work so that the material does not suffer during the finishing of the room. You can lay products with your own hands, both in city apartments and in private fashionable mansions.

For ease of installation, the board has a connection with tongue-and-groove locks.

What is a solid board

These products are made with small grooves and ridges at the edges. Such a design of the boards allows you to quickly and easily dock adjacent floorboards, and the connection is tight.

On sale you can find solid wood floorboards with a width of 12 to 20 centimeters and a length of 0.5 to 3 meters. On the outside, the products are chamfered, so after the installation is completed, a tiny gap is visible. In the event of the appearance of various types of deformations, it is filled, and the coating does not suffer.

On the back side of the products there are small transverse notches and longitudinal cuts, due to which the load on the floorboards is reduced and at the same time the tension of the fibers is reduced, their destruction is not allowed.

Preliminary work

There are different ways of laying solid wood floorboards:

screed mounting without plywood;
installation on plywood;
creating a floating floor;
fixing to old flooring.

Before laying a solid board on a screed, it should be borne in mind that its thickness is greater than that of other products intended for mounting the finishing floor surface (for more details: "How to lay a solid board correctly: options and methods of installation").

One of the conditions for creating a quality floor covering is the ideal condition of the base.

The concrete base must meet a number of requirements:

Humidity- no more than 2%. This indicator can be easily checked using polyethylene, which is covered with a concrete area: after 24 hours, there should be no condensation on it, and the screed should not darken.
There is another way. The rubber mat is placed on the screed and pressed on top with a concrete block and brick. You can also measure humidity using a special moisture meter.
Compressive strength- not less than 20 MPa
Tensile strength- not less than 6 MPa.
Horizontal deviation- cannot exceed 2 millimeters for every 2 running meters.
This parameter is checked using a two-meter level.
Substrate must be clean and free from cracks... Adhesion on an uncleaned surface will be weaker, which will certainly affect the quality of the finish.

Subject to the above requirements, the laying of the array on the screed will be done with high quality, and the floor covering will last for decades.

Experts believe that a solid board on a screed without plywood can be mounted directly on a concrete base not lower than the second floor, while the grade of concrete used must be at least M250.

In the event of a significant deviation from the horizontal, self-leveling self-leveling floors are equipped to level the solid and dry surface of the base.

In the absence of funds for laying a finishing screed on an uneven subfloor, you can eliminate the defects yourself. Pits and cracks are covered with concrete, and with the help of special tools, all irregularities and protuberances are polished.

When the moisture index changes, the wooden floorboards begin to deform linearly. As a result, dimensional fluctuations lead to the appearance of stress between the concrete base and the floor covering. If, under these conditions, the screed does not have sufficient strength, then voids appear in it, it begins to peel off, the laid boards begin to creak and, most likely, the floor will collapse over time.

After the preparatory measures are completed, the packs of boards are opened and the material is taken out so that the products are acclimatized, before the array is mounted on the screed. To ensure the circulation of air currents, the floorboards must be placed on a support.

Self-laying of an array of boards on a screed

When a solid board is mounted on a screed without plywood, it must be remembered that work is to be done with natural wood, which always has minor cracks and irregularities.

But during the operation of the floor covering, they will not spoil the appearance of the floor, but, on the contrary, will emphasize the naturalness of the material. After all, it is not in vain that solid wood boards belong to elite products for surface finishing.

The technology of laying a solid board on a screed involves the following procedure:

The cleaned substrate is primed using an epoxy primer, which improves the adhesion of the adhesive and gives the screed increased strength.
The glue is applied to the finishing material and leveled with a notched trowel.
Initially, three rows of floorboards are laid out in the middle of the room. The place for this is determined based on the width of the products, so that the edge of the row closest to the wall is at a distance of 1 to 1.5 centimeters.
Screed boards can also be started from the wall.
Further, each row is mounted alternately on both sides of the first three.
If even the slightest difference in the level of the arrangement of the flooring elements is detected, massive products must be loaded for a while until the polymerization of the adhesive is completed.
When laying between the boards and the wall, it is necessary to leave a gap, which should be 10-15 millimeters along the longitudinal side, and 5-10 millimeters at the end, since there is always a seasonal deformation of wood products.

When a solid board is being mounted, only modern two-component adhesives, for example, elastic polyurethane and epoxy-polyurethane adhesives, will help to lay the product on the screed.

It should be noted that solid wood floorboards should not be used for finishing a "warm" floor: if a wooden covering is installed, it becomes unusable.

Among the advantages of a solid floor board, it should be noted its durability, low thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation and environmental friendliness. Proper care of such natural wood flooring can extend its service life up to 100-120 years.

Master class: laying solid boards

When choosing a massive board, you should know that coniferous products deteriorate faster. For example, pine is not very resistant to mechanical stress and microclimatic changes. In order for the floor finish to serve for a long time, it is necessary to avoid high humidity in the room.

What is a solid wood board: advantages and disadvantages
Criteria for choosing a solid board
The main methods of laying solid boards
Preparation for installation work
Installation of an array of boards on plywood
"Floating" way of mounting the array
Fastening solid planks to wood flooring

Solid wood floor coverings are now popular because of their presentable appearance and many other undeniable advantages.

Choosing the option of how to lay a massive board, you need to remember that only with proper installation, such a floor can serve for more than a dozen years.

What is a solid wood board: advantages and disadvantages

The name of this floor finish product means that it is made from a single piece of wood. After installation, this material is very similar to a parquet board, which, unlike solid wood floorboards, is made from several wooden planks by gluing.

First of all, it should be noted that natural wood flooring is environmentally friendly, does not contain allergens, and has a beneficial effect on health.

In addition, it has other advantages:

beautiful appearance, the floor surface looks presentable, which is confirmed by the photo;
good noise-absorbing and heat-insulating characteristics;
ease of installation in comparison, for example, with parquet;
resistance to aggressive factors;
strength and long service life.

Disadvantages of solid wood flooring:

high cost, especially of products from valuable tree species;
installation is expensive;
sensitivity to changes in humidity and temperature indicators;
the need to regularly care for the surface - varnish or oil;
installation on the "warm floor" system is undesirable;
flammability, susceptibility to rotting without treatment with special means;
it is impossible to carry out artistic layout, unlike parquet boards.

When you plan to lay an array of boards, first of all, what needs to be done is to decide on the installation method.

You can make your work easier if you study in detail the features of the product and know how to choose the right product.

Criteria for choosing a solid board

The final result depends on the quality of the material for arranging the flooring.

Therefore, when buying a solid board, you need to pay attention to a number of points:

Material quality and geometry... First of all, you should inspect the surface of the boards to check for cracks and similar defects, and then the edges of the floorboards: whether firing was used to finish them.
If it took place, then this indicates a violation of the drying technology. Laying a solid floor from such boards will not make it possible to make a high-quality floor - it will look sloppy.

The geometric parameters of solid wood products should make it easy to connect the floorboards to each other. The topcoat must not have gaps or protrusions, otherwise the laid surface will become uneven.
Product design... Before laying a solid board, you need to make sure that its appearance will correspond to the designed interior. It is not difficult to choose the suitable option, since the array is available on the market in a wide range of colors and various structures.
In the manufacture of boards, not only ordinary wood can be used, but also exotic and rare tree species. Among them, the most popular is beech products - products from it are characterized by durability, but at the same time they are sensitive to high humidity.

Therefore, in rooms with a high humidity, it is better to install foliage or teak floorboards instead of beech boards.
Availability of documents... Confirmation of the quality of any outdoor products is the corresponding certificates of manufacturers, which contain information necessary for consumers about a specific product.
After viewing them, you need to find out what technology was used to dry the boards. The best choice is products that were manufactured using the convective method. The moisture content of solid wood boards should not exceed 9%.
Availability of GOST certificates. They are confirmation that the goods were manufactured by serious manufacturing firms.

The main methods of laying solid boards

When a solid floor board is chosen for arranging a beautiful flooring, laying should be done on a prepared base.

In practice, one of several methods of creating a rough surface is used - the products are mounted:

on a concrete screed;
on wooden logs;
on ordinary plywood;
on natural wood;
using staples.

Installation of massive boards is carried out most often on a cement-concrete base.

Fixation is performed using special adhesives. They have high performance in terms of temperature changes and are not toxic to humans.
Before installing the floorboards on the screed, they are checked for strength and defects.

At the same time, the moisture content of the base should be 6-7%, otherwise the arrangement of the waterproofing layer will be required.

Laying solid boards: methods and technology

The gaps in the joints are carefully glued.

Thus, when choosing a method of mounting the array on a screed, it is impossible to allow their contact with each other. To do this, it is necessary to arrange an intermediate layer using a primer mastic and a vapor barrier film.

The next popular technology is laying solid boards on plywood.

The peculiarity of this method is that it will require the creation of a vapor barrier layer. The moisture content of the material cannot exceed 10%, and the fixation is carried out with two-component adhesives.

The convenience of the method, when a solid board is mounted on logs, is that
the job can be completed quickly as there is no need to knead the cement slurries. A waterproofing layer made of penofol or polyethylene film is placed under the logs.

Laying a solid board in a floating way implies installation using staples. This technology can significantly reduce the time of work.

Aluminum products are installed at the same time as silicone expansion joints to improve edge bonding.

Sometimes the installation of massive boards is performed on top of a wooden surface. The old coating must be reliable and durable and have a moisture content of 8-10%. If the wooden base is varnished, then it is removed and the planks are sanded in order to eliminate irregularities.

When laying the array, the boards should be placed in the same direction as in the previous covering. Self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating are used to fix the new floorboards.

Self-tapping screws are fastened with an interval of 25-30 centimeters from one another. In order to prevent splitting of the material from the side of the spike, holes must be made.

It is impossible for the caps to "protrude" above the surface; it should be possible to close it later with special rivets.

Having studied all the methods of laying a solid board, having analyzed their pros and cons, you can choose the option that will be the best solution in this particular case.

Preparation for installation work

The rows between the elements of the flooring are fixed with staples or the massive board is laid on glue.

Of the tools for carrying out the work, you will need:

simple pencil and square;
metal ruler;
wooden mallet;
drill and screwdriver;
pneumatic staple machine;
putty knife.

Of the fasteners, self-tapping screws are needed - it is better to purchase them with a galvanized coating and anti-corrosion properties, since they do not rust and are able to smooth out the negative effects of temperature fluctuations and other seasonal factors.

At the bottom of the cover, stainless brackets are placed, which are necessary for attaching two elements - they are snapped into the grooves or fixed with screw-in screws.

Before starting the installation, the massive board is unpacked and left in the room where the installation is planned for about a week.

The floorboards are placed on stands to allow air to circulate around the products.

Installation of an array of boards on plywood

When buying plywood for a massive board, preference should be given to sheets with a thickness of 13-15 millimeters.

The installation process is performed step by step in a specific sequence:

Plywood is cut into half-meter-wide pieces.
A vapor barrier material is placed on the concrete surface.
Laying of the array on plywood is carried out in compliance with a 45-degree angle with respect to the base.
Since there is little deformation of the floorboards during thermal expansion, 3 mm gaps are left between the sheets during installation.
Next, the plywood surface is sanded.
After the plywood base is ready, start laying the array.
Use a two-component polyurethane-based glue for a solid board on plywood. See also: "Laying a massive board on a screed without plywood with your own hands."

"Floating" way of mounting the array

In the event that, due to the arrangement of a warm floor, this technology is preferred, you need to make sure that the base of the coating and the array do not touch. During the installation process, the structural elements are fixed using plank dies. The "floating" method allows compensation for temperature extremes and changes in humidity.

Fastening solid planks to wood flooring

In the event that the old wooden base does not inspire confidence, then it is better to dismantle it and replace it with another one, which is unprofitable from a financial point of view, since the creation of a new floor covering will be very costly. Solid wood boards are laid in the same way as laminate, so you can even do this work yourself. Experts recommend starting installation from far corners - in this case, it will be possible to evaluate the results of your own efforts.

Laying massive boards is a floor-mounted coating, the elements of which differ significantly from parquet in their parameters. During the work, the process includes some features. Only a specialist with the skills and professionalism of a master can smoothly and correctly lay out the floor with a board. All preparatory steps will be carried out with high precision and inaccuracies.

Characteristics of a quality board

A massive board at each end has a saw cut, which helps in the locking connection of two such elements. It is done by milling and makes it possible to tightly join two planks together using the groove-tenon method.

As the main material for flooring, the board has its own dimensions, quality and specificity of laying. In terms of installation time, each running (or square) meter will be implemented much faster than parquet strips.

Floor array dimensions:

in length - 0.6-3 m;
in width - 6-20 cm;
thickness - 15-22 mm.

The massive one differs from the parquet board in length, thickness, width and even smoothness. Permissible roughness for wood flooring according to the standard is 125 mm.

For both types of materials, thickness plays a key role in determining the degree of durability. The thicker the board, the longer the wood floor will last. The thinnest (0.7 cm) are perfect for scraping, and not arranging the strength of the coating.

Preparation for laying solid boards

To carry out high-quality work, the following conditions must be met:

The room temperature should be between +18 and +25 degrees Celsius.
Humidity indicators do not go beyond the range of 45-65 percent.
The space should be free, not obstructed by tools or parts of building materials.
Immediately after the board is delivered to the place, it is not laid. You need to wait until it is soaked for about two to three days.

The packed board should only be opened by workers and before direct installation work. Before the arrival of specialists, it will be necessary to first bring the surface to a clean state.

Basis for laying solid boards

The board must be laid out on a specific basis. You cannot perform work if the floor is earthen in a private house, or consists of reinforced concrete floors in an apartment building. First, a base is made - a concrete screed. Then you can choose:

Lay the boards directly onto the new (or old but strong) screed.
Or cover everything with sheet plywood, and mount a floor from a board on top of it.
Alternatively, use an existing strong plank floor as a base surface.

If there are systems of "warm floors", the solid board is not used. In the process of heating, the wood will dry out, crack, the coating will quickly fail. In such cases, the laying of specialized piece parquet is used, if the customer really wants to have a wooden floor covering.

Phased work

Algorithm of actions when laying a solid board:

Study of the surface on which the board will be laid.
Adjust the baseline if necessary.
Measurements and calculations (if necessary).
Application of waterproofing material.
Decking of plywood sheets impregnated with resins and other moisture-resistant substances.
The first stage of grinding is preparatory.
Lined boards.
The second stage of grinding is thorough, with the inclusion of a sealant, putty.
Painting, toning, or varnishing.

You can line a solid board, refined with different coatings: oils, tinting, or varnish. But working with such material will cost a little more. For example, a varnished board with an additive for glue (or self-tapping screws) can be installed for 1250 rubles per 1 sq. M. And when using wide elements (over 120 mm) - from 1450 rubles per 1 square meter.

Prices for preparing the base for laying

Grinding the screed	RUB 150 sq. m.
Mapping the evenness of the base	RUB 70 sq. m.
Screed priming. For mastic or glue	RUB 70 sq. m.
Steam-waterproofing device for plywood. Reinforced polyethylene and mastic.	RUB 150 sq. m.
Steam-waterproofing device for plywood. Two-component vapor-waterproofing primer in two layers	RUB 100 sq. m.
Dismantling plywood or parquet without preserving material	RUB 170 sq. m.
Dismantling the parquet board and substrate without preserving the material	220 RUB sq. m.
Dismantling the parquet board while preserving the material	RUB 350 sq. m.
Dismantling a solid board without saving material	310 RUB sq. m.
Offset plywood installation. Including dowels, screws and drills	RUB 250 sq. m.
Sawing a sheet of plywood into four pieces (square 750/750 mm), including saw blades.	RUB 100 sq. m.
Sawing a sheet of plywood into 64 pieces (square 190/190 mm), including saw blades.	RUB 700 sq. m.
Plywood sanding (CO-206 + ELAN machine), including abrasive materials.	RUB 150 sq. m.
Plywood gluing in small squares (190/190 mm)	450 RUB sq. m.
Strengthening plywood (by drilling)	RUB 150 sq. m.

Parquet laying price: turnkey and individual works

Floating laying of parquet boards, laminate	450 rub. sq. m.
Laying lacquered engineering / parquet boards on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self-tapping screws.	1150 RUB sq. m.
Laying block parquet with glue and nails. Deck, herringbone, squares	750 RUB sq. m.
Laying solid boards with glue and self-tapping screws. Including self-tapping screws	1050 RUB sq. m.
Laying varnished parquet	1050 RUB sq. m.
Laying lacquered solid boards on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self-tapping screws	1250 RUB sq. m.
Laying lacquered solid boards on glue and self-tapping screws, more than 120 mm wide	1450 RUB sq. m.
Installing a cork nut when laying parquet	800 RUB sq. m.
Installing a cork nut when laying varnished parquet + varnish protection	1400 RUB sq. m.

Ecopol massive board is laid on any flat base that meets general requirements, including logs.

Choose a method of laying Ecopol solid board

Flooring a traditional solid board is troublesome and costly. To install it, you need to buy plywood, a primer, 2K glue for it and for an array. Pay for the work of the styling master. The responsibility is high, the laying speed is low. Therefore, such works cannot be cheap. Yes, and it is impossible to lay such a board on a warm floor - it will crack, warp and peel off along with the leveling agent.

Ecopol board is a unique solid board. It can be installed in two main ways:

1. Modern floating method (on a substrate and staples). This is how parquet and laminate are laid.
2. In the traditional way (on plywood and glue). As well as block parquet, modular parquet and engineered flooring.

To choose the method of laying Ecopol, you need to decide on the main advantages and features of each.

1. Laying a solid board on a substrate and staples.

The floating method of laying the Ecopol solid board allows you to get a floor that is 100% environmentally friendly, because completely made of natural solid wood. This means that you get a perfect natural material in its entire thickness.

The surface of the board is coated with OSMO oil, which is so safe for health that it is used for children's toys, furniture and kitchen countertops.

Elastic braces do not just connect the boards to each other, like the locks on parquet boards and laminates. But they also work in compression and tension with fluctuations in humidity.

The staples are made of resilient hardened steel, not pine or MDF, so they are many times more reliable and durable. Such steel is called spring, crossbow or aviation steel, it does not know aging or fatigue.

This floor is like a sturdy wooden carpet that can be taken apart and reassembled with little or no waste. The floating installation allows the boards to move with seasonal fluctuations in humidity (winter-summer). It is in motion, as if floating above the base. The base material is not particularly important. The looseness of the boards to the base, the gaps around the perimeter allow the floor to become a single whole, responding to changes and loads due to changes in the gap.

Thanks to the unique staples and floating installation, crevice problems are virtually non-existent, even on underfloor heating. Floating installation is the most economical, because plywood, glue, primer are not needed, and the installation work itself is cheaper than traditional installation.

In case of redevelopment, you will not have to buy the floor again, because Ecopol can produce the required number of boards of your design. Newly made boards will be slightly different in color from the old floor. But if you mix the new with the old, i.e. to shift the parquet in the room, then it will not be noticeable. Over time, the boards will become equal in color and will not be noticeable at all.

Ecopol can even be transported with you to a new place of residence, because the oak array over time only becomes stronger, harder and more stable.

This technique cannot be used in the case of gluing the array to plywood. In this case, the damaged boards can be carefully dismantled and new ones glued in. True, a new piece of flooring will stand out as a stain against the background of the main floor. Moving or taking with you the glued floor will also not work.

Ecopol chose OSMO oil as the main topcoat. On the one hand, such a floor must be monitored, periodically impregnated, saturating the wood with wax. But on the other hand, with regular maintenance, such parquet will not need re-grinding, which is accompanied by the removal of furniture, dust and the inability to operate the premises for 3-4 days.

If it is difficult to maintain your floors, then order PU-varnish.

At the same time, there are a number of restrictions when laying Ecopol massive boards in a floating way. Since the flooring of the boards moves depending on the humidity of the air, becoming more or less, install Ecopol in rooms wider than 7.5 m. recommended with an additional thermal seam. It is recommended to separate rooms with unstable and uncontrolled humidity with sills, which is inevitable with any floor covering with floating installation. It is recommended to install skirting boards with a floor overlap of 35 mm.

These requirements are precisely related to the fact that wood naturally expands when the air humidity rises and dries out when it drops. If you do not observe the humidity regime, then with significant shrinkage, filamentous selective cracks may appear. And in case of excessive moisture, the floor covering can rest against adjacent surfaces (walls, doors, pipes) and become a "house". Fortunately, the drying and moisturizing processes in natural wood are reversible.

When the air humidity is normalized, the boards and flooring as a whole get their original appearance thanks to the floating flooring and compression brackets.

The staples pull the boards together with a force of about 30-35 kg per bracket. Therefore, such a floor gives many times more uniform shrinkage or expansion with changes in humidity compared to traditional laying on plywood and glue.

Ecopol offers beautiful, reliable and simple solutions for skirting boards and sills.

You can lay a massive board on a warm floor

A massive Ecopol board can be safely laid in a floating way on heated floors of any kind - water and electric. Such an array is friendly with warm floors. We have been doing this since 2010. But only on staples on the substrate - without attachment to the base! You cannot glue on a warm floor.

Moreover, when laying Ecopol on a warm floor, several additional advantages arise at once:

solid oak board conducts heat much better than pine or plywood due to its high density
there is no risk of tearing and deformation of the top decorative veneer
no hazardous substances are released into the air and there is no danger of aging of the glue line
in case of problems with the heating system, Ecopol can be disassembled, eliminated the defect or breakdown and reassembled without loss
saving on additional materials and work for the benefit of your own health

An underfloor heating water floor in a wooden house is best suited for floating oak parquet flooring. the wood of the house will also react to changes in air humidity. For this reason, wood parquet is less susceptible to moisture.

It is better to choose a covering for solid boards - Osmo oil. Due to its plasticity, it does not crack when the board dries out during the heating season.

An example of laying a massive Ecopol board on heat-distributing plates of a water-heated floor

2. Laying solid boards on plywood and glue.

If the installation of joining profiles and wide skirting boards is categorically unacceptable, then it is better to glue a massive board to the base. It is not recommended to glue a massive board directly onto the screed. Laying plywood under parquet is required.

In this case, a massive board can be laid in rooms with a width of more than 7 m. without transitional sills. However, cork expansion joints still cannot be avoided. They should be at the joints with adjacent coatings to compensate for wood movement. When laying massive boards on plywood and glue, you can install narrower skirting boards that overlap 10-15 mm thermo joints. Thus, it is possible to obtain a single solid flooring without thresholds, decorated with narrow skirting boards.

Such a floor will not move as a whole, but individually with boards, because each board has a strictly defined place. When shrinking, the boards will become smaller and, while remaining in place, may form cracks. In case of waterlogging, on the contrary, they will become a "house". When the air humidity is normalized, the boards tend to return to their original appearance.

Thus, the "behavior" of the wood itself is the same - when the humidity drops, the board dries out, when the board gets wet, the board expands. With floating installation (on staples), the entire floor moves, and when gluing, each board (floor element) separately.

The adhesive method is not recommended for heated floors. There are two main reasons. Firstly, such a floor will inevitably give visible large gaps due to the drying out of the floor. Secondly, the glue seam will age quickly, and with a sharp difference in humidity between the winter-summer periods, it will break. As a result, the board will begin to peel off from the screed and lead to a complete dismantling of the coating.

It is easy to choose the way of laying solid boards by prioritizing.

If the main thing is environmental friendliness, profitability and complete maintainability from renewing the coating without regrinding to a new installation in a new place - choose floating installation on staples. If the main thing is narrow skirting boards and the absence of sills, choose laying on plywood and glue.

Whatever method of laying a solid board, or any other floor covering you choose, you must observe the humidity regime. The requirements for solid boards, parquet and engineered boards, block and modular parquet and laminate are the same - the air humidity should be from 45 to 60%.

	FOR STAPLES ON SUBSTRATE	ON PLYWOOD AND GLUE
Environmental friendliness	100% free of harmful substances and vapors	there are phenols, formaldehydes in plywood and adhesives
base	any even	increased requirements for the quality of the base
laying on a warm floor	YES	NO
disassemble and reassemble	YES	NO
replace a separate board, floor area	YES	YES
restoration, regrinding	YES	YES
move to other accommodation	YES	NO
aging of the glue line	NO	YES
seasonal fissure	NO	YES
serves after a small leak	YES	YES
serves after flooding	YES	NO
thermo joints at the walls	10-15 mm	10-15 mm
thermo joints between rooms	recommended	recommended
non-threshold styling (maximum)	up to 7.5 m wide	up to 100 m2 area
plinth (width across the floor)	not less than 35 mm	not less than 18 mm
nut	invoice 2-3 mm above the floor	cork, mastic flush with the floor
laying speed (20 m2)	1 day	3 days
do it yourself	YES	NO
additional materials	540 rub / m2	from 1350 rub / m2
styling price in St. Petersburg	400 rub / m2	from 900 rub / m2

Photo instructions for stapling

Floating laying on a solid flat base is carried out in accordance with the Technical Conditions for Ecopol.

The base must be dry (no more than 2% moisture content) and even, the differences must be no more than 2 mm on a two-meter rule. A screed or concrete base works best.

It is advisable to choose the direction of laying the boards along the room, since a significant shrinkage of wood occurs only across the fibers. Leave the gaps between the walls and the floor: when laying from March to August (conditionally summer without heating) 7-10 mm and gaps 10-15 mm from September to February (conditionally winter with heating).

To ensure that the board, which you will finish laying, is not already 3-4 cm, carry out a verification calculation.

When laying on logs, the distance between their axes should be no more than 40 cm. The end connections of the boards should lie on the logs or jumpers.

Use a cross-linked polyethylene foam backing with a thickness of 2-3 mm, for example, Penolon Premium PPE 7002, 9002. The cork backing cannot be used because of its high surface friction and low elasticity. Screw the self-tapping screw into the hole closest to the horizontal tendrils of the clover. (fig. 1)

a) the spring tongues of the "clover" staples are moved to the mounting position (Fig. 1), after which they are screwed to the boards in increments of 30-35 cm. The extreme "clovers" are installed no further than 20 cm from the ends of the boards;

b) the first row of boards is laid out along the wall on a substrate;

c) the row is leveled and wedges-stops are installed in the gap between the board and the wall with a step of 30-35 cm;

d) coat the edge and end spikes with antiskrip sealant (Fig. 2);

e) the boards are tightly rallied along the edge and ends and leveled in a horizontal plane using a doboiner, a hammer and flat pads, for example, strips of hardboard or plywood with a thickness of 3-10 mm;

f) now press the board over the clover until the tongues are released, which is indicated by the characteristic clicks. (fig. 2);

g) carefully control the closing of the "clovers" with your hands.

h) fix the fillet to the wall (Fig. 4)
The limitation on the width of the flooring is 7 lm for oak boards. Premises with a width of more than 7 m. should be separated by an additional technical gap. The rooms are separated from each other by an expansion joint (technological gap), which is then covered by a plinth and a sill.

Remember: a floating solid wood floor will certainly shrink and swell about 1 cm per 1 meter of floor width, therefore, observe the optimal mode of operation of the room: temperature 18-26 ° C and humidity 45-60%, put the furniture legs on felt pads, restore in a timely manner covering, do not overload the floor.

Click on the photo - under each there is a description of the stages of Ecopol installation.

Laying the French breakout

If you are experiencing assembly difficulties, please seek advice.

Photo instructions for laying on logs.

Laying on logs Laying on logs

Laying on plywood

Ecopol massive board is specially designed for floating laying on any flat surface, including heated ones. But it can also be laid in the traditional way on plywood with full adhesion to the base. Keep in mind that it is not recommended to glue a solid board on warm floors !!!

For flooring boards with full adhesion to the base, choose plywood with a thickness of 2/3 of the thickness of the floor covering. If there are no communications at the base, then the plywood is glued to the base and additionally attached to a pair of self-tapping screws and a dowel.

If there are communications at the base, then the plywood is cut without fail into 6-8 parts and only glued. In this case, during the stabilization of the glue, it is necessary to additionally load the plywood. In this case, priming the base before plywood flooring is required.

Plywood must be sanded and vacuumed before laying a solid board.

If it is necessary to prime the surface for the selected adhesive, this must be done.

Only 2-component or 1-component polyurethane-based hybrid adhesives are used for gluing solid wood from natural wood. No other types of glue can be used !!!

Those. the gap (thermal joints) between the wall and the boards should be from 10 to 15 mm (it is fixed with special wedges). The seam is also necessary at the places where the board adjoins doors, heating pipes, etc. In rooms with a large area, the width of the expansion joint must be increased from the calculation - by 1 m of the width of the room, approximately 2 mm of the width of the structural joint. In this case, it is recommended to make the flooring separately in each room, leaving an expansion joint on the threshold lines, which is then covered with special sills. It is better to make the flooring along the line of natural light so that small differences in the height of the boards are invisible. Then the whole parquet canvas will look uniform and monolithic.

The glue is applied so that the seams between the plywood squares are completely glued, the board is glued to at least 80% of its area.

It is necessary to try to make the flooring in such a way that the glue does not get into the thorn-groove of the boards, because due to its density, excessive gaps may form.

The planks are laid from the wall, with the ridge to the wall, to the groove, so that fasteners (self-tapping screws, screws) can be driven into the groove. On average, 1-strip requires 1-2 pieces of fasteners in the end, depending on the width and 2 pieces along the length for each meter of length. If the fastener is installed in the ridge, then, accordingly, the ridge is laid towards itself.

After applying glue to the plywood, you need to attach the board, press it firmly and fix it with fasteners.

You can walk on the floor 24-48 hours after the end of the flooring, depending on the air humidity and the curing time of the glue.

The floors can be used three days after the end of the work.

When installing the boards, the master, no matter how hard he tries, inevitably touches the glue layer and stains the surface of the board. Excess glue or traces of it protruding on the surface during laying must be cleaned immediately, first with a cleaner suitable for this glue and, most importantly, for covering, and then with a damp cloth. If the glue was not removed in time and it is completely dry, it cannot be mechanically cleaned off, because the coating of the board will be damaged! In this case, try using a glue softener first (if the manufacturer makes one) or replace the board.

After the flooring, possible small gaps caused by regulatory tolerances for the manufacture of products and deviations from the plane of the base can be treated with a special acrylate-based wood sealant to match the tone of the rock (silicone or other sealants cannot be used). Remove excess sealant immediately with a damp cloth. If the color of the wood is specific, then the already dried sealant is tinted with a felt-tip pen, which, having been absorbed, is not washed off during cleaning.

Then the doors are installed, sills and skirting boards are installed.