Installing plasterboard with insulation on the wall. The better to insulate the house from the inside under the plasterboard. Necessary materials and tools

Wall insulation with plasterboard - a reliable and simple option to keep warm in its home. You can independently produce insulation of walls from the inside with plasterboard as a skeleton method and frameless. In the first case, the insulation is attached to a metal crate or wood, and in the second - directly on the wall with the help of adhesive mastic or putty. For any option, you will easily select all the necessary components in the store.

Frameless fastening method

In this way, you can mount the sheets of plasterboard on concrete, brick, isolated from plaster blocks and other walls in private houses or apartments. The only condition, the execution of which is necessary for the use of this technology, is that the height of the insulation sheets should not be less than the permissible height of the room.

Before the start of operation, the walls are very thoroughly cleaned from any dirt, dust, fat spots, and then treated with primer. Choose the type of primer, which is suitable for specific walls with a certain hygroscopicity. The mastic, which will be attached to the insulation, buy ready-made in the store or do it yourself.

From the ready-made can be purchased, for example, the mounting plaster glue glue "KNAUF-PERLFIX", the gypsum spacing "KNAUF-FUGEN GW" or gypsum glue "Volma-mounting". To prepare adhesive mastic with your own hands, it is necessary to mix 4 parts of the plaster of construction with 1 part of wood sawdust, and then pour the glue solution into the mixture, prepared at the rate of 25 g of glue mass on 3 liters of water. Gypsopilic mastic is well settled, literally after 30 minutes, it also gives excellent grip with a wall with a sheet of drywall.

The insulation sheets are mounted in such a way that they move away from the surface of the floor or ceiling by 10-20 mm. After these gaps can be sealing with sealant, mineral wool strips or any other insulating material.

Immediately sticking is carried out as follows: The glue mixture on the plasterboard plate is applied with a spatula with 3-5 mm with solid strips of 50-100 mm, then it is added to the wall and pressed the rule. The installation always monitors the seams between adjacent sheets as already as possible.

Unfortunately, the walls are not always smooth, they can have curvature and drops on the surface. Then apply the technique of glitting of drywall to the support beaches. This process is quite time consuming, consisting of several stages. But there is a simpler way to create a curvilinear surface. In this case, the sheet of drywall is covered with a rough wet cloth (burlap) and withstand about 10-12 hours, after which the insulation will repeat all the irregularities of the wall.

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Frame mounting methods

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Fastening on a wooden frame

When the ceilings indoors are very high, more than 3 m, and the walls are strongly uneven, then the skeleton method of cladding walls will be more reliable. On the entire surface of the wall, a wooden lamp is installed, consisting of vertical and horizontal rails, pre-treated with an antiseptic type of sodium fluoride. The risks are 40 mm thick most convenient.

The wooden frame is attached to the wall with dowels or "liquid nails", and its facial surface must be in one vertical plane. It is easily checked using a level or plumb. The crate is placed in such a way that the heads of the plasterboard leaf lay on two vertical rails and closed their front side entirely. For sheets with a width of more than 50 cm, it is necessary to make an additional vertical rail in the middle. If the junction of two adjacent plates falls on the front of the rail, then its minimum width is allowed 80 mm. In the field of adjustment to the floor and the ceiling, horizontal rails are installed.

The insulation plates are fixed with screws or galvanized nails around the perimeter. 15-20 mm retreat from the edges, and between the mounts make a distance of 400 mm. To notice the sheet, in the middle, fasteners are driven with a distance of 600 mm. The fasteners should be dried slightly in the drywall, so that then it was possible to sharpen.

This method of reducing the heat loss has a significant drawback - during the arrangement of the inner insulation layer decreases the size of the room. And, nevertheless, it is so quite often a real estate owners finish their buildings. When is it appropriate?

First, although there is an external insulation and is the main for all structures, it is often impossible to equip it in purely technical reasons. For example, if the structure is adjacent to another building, which does not heal (utility or storage facilities, and the like).
Secondly, even if a qualitatively made outdoor insulation does not provide due efficiency.

Involuntarily, the question arises, and what is the plasterboard, which does not apply to the group of insulation materials? Yes, by itself, this product is not a "heat insulator", but it is advisable to use it for the interior decoration of surfaces during such events. Its sheets have a strict geometry and a smooth surface, so you can put any thermal insulation material for insulation of walls from the inside under drywall.

By the way, it is indirectly and himself contributes to a decrease in heat loss. During the installation process between the insulation material and plasterboard, a small gap remains, the airbag. And such a layer does not misuse heat.

Stages of the heat insulation of the wall

Preparation of walls

Quite often in the articles on this topic, it is indicated that the only condition is to ensure dryness and purity of surfaces. But if you're more carefully to delve into this question, it will become clear that one events like "cleaning - washing - drying" is not limited to limited. Further wall decoration, for which she is preparing, hides it from our eyes for a long time.

Therefore, it is necessary to take care that it is reliably protected from various influences, and first of all, moisture. This will allow for a long time not to worry about what the state is located on which the insulation is laid.

For this, after its purification, the wedding owner should treat the surface with special impregnating compositions (antiseptics and antipirens). For wood, such work is carried out necessarily.

Well, if the wall has significant defects, they need to be eliminated immediately. Any cracks, slots at the joints are the "loopholes", through which heat will go. In addition, large irregularities (especially bugs) will significantly complicate the further process of insulation of walls from the inside under drywall.

Fastening the crates for plasterboard

Many thermal insulation materials can be recorded at the place of gluing method. But do not forget that then it will also be necessary to mount the sheets of external sheat. It is for them first and foremost a carrier framework is preparing, because on his rails plasterboard will be fixed.

1 - plasterboard sheet; 2 - sealant; 3 - profile guide, 4 - ceiling profile; 5 - gap for irregular walls or pipe wiring; 6 - direct suspension; 7, 8 - sealing tape

A little about this design. Traditionally, wood is used for installation. But this material in this case has, in our opinion, 2 restrictions.

First, 1 rake weighs a bit, but the entire assembly is already a rather massive design. And if the walls of their cellular concrete? It is clear that there will be difficulties with the fastening.
Secondly, depending on the local conditions, the characteristics of the heat-insulating material, including its thickness (allow, 10 cm) are calculated. Consequently, it is necessary to choose and racks. Pretty severe will be a doom, and such rails still have to search.

It is more expedient to buy profiles, especially since there are special, intended precisely for laying insulation under plasterboard. It is better to acquire "galvanized", as it can be cut even with scissors (thickness - about 0.5 mm).

Now - about the distance between the profiles. It is necessary to focus on the size of the sheets of plasterboard and insulation, as they cut them - much more difficult, and indeed the loss of time. But since they are rectangular, it can be attached differently - vertically, horizontally. The general principle of choosing the necessary "step" profiles is understandable.

Before they are installed on the "sole" should stick a special tape. This will reduce heat exchange between profiles and wall and eliminate the possible temperature deformation of the regions. She, though insignificant, but on the quality of sealing the junctions will affect.

Profiles alignment is controlled by both planes (vertical, horizontal) by construction level. It is important, otherwise plasterboard sheets do not form a smooth surface.

Installation of insulation under plasterboard

The products are stacked between the beams of the carrier frame. Fastening nuances depend on the type of material. For example, the foam is glued to the wall, is additionally fixed with special dowels.

All joints should be sealed. Between the plates - construction scotch, between the insulation and the ceiling - silicone sealant.

Surface finish

It also depends on the type of insulation. For example, if it is Minvat, then it needs to be protected from moisture, which she absorbs well. For this purpose, appropriate materials are used ("Ecoofol" and a number of others). It is necessary to equip and vaporizolation. When choosing the "heat insulator" on this issue, you should consult with a specialist.

1 - plasterboard sheet; 2 - vaporizolation; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - cement-chipboard; 6 - Wooden frame

Mounting plasterboard

Produced by "self-drawing". Sheet joints need to be stuck. After that, it is advisable to handle the skin and coat, for example, with paintwork, ribbon to prevent cracking of putty.

All used insulation under plasterboard (as well as its sheets) have certain dimensions. Therefore, the dimensions of all materials used must be selected so that they "fit" to each other. Then various "cuts", fit will be less, therefore, work will go faster. In addition, it is necessary to understand that the more joints, the lower the quality of the heat shield.
If communication lines are passing along the walls, the insulation must be touched under them. Perhaps it will take the material of a lesser thickness. All this is calculated in advance.
In order not to disturb the natural circulation of air masses, there is a small gap between the slats and the insulation material.
If something is assumed to be attached to the wall (picture, locker and so on), then the appropriate marks should be made on the surface of the drywall (where to install methols).

It should be understood that insulation only one wall will not give the proper effect. Such an event must be carried out comprehensively, with finishing all the surfaces of the room.

First, although there is an external insulation and is the main for all structures, it is often impossible to equip it in purely technical reasons. For example, if the structure is adjacent to another building, which does not heal (utility or storage facilities, and the like).
Secondly, even if a qualitatively made outdoor insulation does not provide due efficiency.

By the way, it is indirectly and himself contributes to a decrease in heat loss. In the process of installation between the insulation material and plasterboard, there is a small gap, an airbag "Pillow". And such a layer does not misuse heat.

Stages of the heat insulation of the wall

Preparation of walls

Quite often in the articles on this topic, it is indicated that the only condition is to ensure dryness and purity of surfaces. But if you carefully in to be in this question, it will become clear that one events like "cleaning - washing - drying is not limited to. Further wall decoration, for which she is preparing, hides it from our eyes for a long time.

For this, after its purification, the wedding owner should treat the surface with special impregnating compositions (antiseptics and antipirens). For wood, such work is carried out necessarily.

Well, if the wall has significant defects, they need to be eliminated immediately. Any cracks, slits at the joints are the "loopholes", through which heat will go. In addition, large irregularities (especially bugs) will significantly complicate the further process of insulation of walls from the inside under drywall.

Fastening the crates for plasterboard

A little about this design. Traditionally, wood is used for installation. But this material in this case has, in our opinion, 2 restrictions.

First, 1 rake weighs a bit, but the entire assembly is already a rather massive design. And if the walls of their cellular concrete? It is clear that there will be difficulties with the fastening.
Secondly, depending on the local conditions, the characteristics of the heat-insulating material, including its thickness (allow, 10 cm) are calculated. Consequently, it is necessary to choose and racks. Pretty severe will be a doom, and such rails still have to search.

Before installing them, the sole should be pasted a special tape. This will reduce heat exchange between profiles and wall and eliminate the possible temperature deformation of the regions. She, though insignificant, but on the quality of sealing the junctions will affect.

Installation of insulation under plasterboard

All joints should be sealed. Between the plates - construction scotch, between the insulation and the ceiling - silicone sealant.

Surface finish

It also depends on the type of insulation. For example, if it is Minvat, then it needs to be protected from moisture, which she absorbs well. For this purpose, appropriate materials are used ("ecoofol and a number of others). It is necessary to equip and vaporizolation. When choosing "the thermal insulator on this issue should be consulted with a specialist.

1 - plasterboard sheet; 2 - vaporizolation; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - cement-chipboard; 6 - Wooden frame

Mounting plasterboard

Produced by "self-drawing". Sheet joints need to be stuck. After that, it is advisable to handle the skin and coat, for example, with paintwork, ribbon to prevent cracking of putty.

All used insulation under plasterboard (as well as its sheets) have certain dimensions. Therefore, the sizes of all used materials must be selected so that they "fit together. Then various "cuts", fit will be less, therefore, and work will go faster. In addition, it is necessary to understand that the more joints, the lower the quality of the heat shield.
If communication lines are passing along the walls, the insulation must be touched under them. Perhaps it will take the material of a lesser thickness. All this is calculated in advance.
In order not to disturb the natural circulation of air masses, there is a small gap between the slats and the insulation material.
If something is assumed to be attached to the wall (picture, locker and so on), then the appropriate marks should be made on the surface of the drywall (where to install methols).

It should be understood that insulation only one wall will not give the proper effect. Such an event must be carried out comprehensively, with finishing all the surfaces of the room.

Warm Wall Plasterton - Secrets of Warm and Cozy Apartments

The insulation of the apartment can significantly save on heating in the autumn-winter season. Most often, the walls are inside the apartment, and not outside. It is much more economical, does not require the services of professional workers and expensive materials for the exterior. For thermal insulation indoors, as a rule, structures made of metal profiles and plasterboard sheets are used. This method is characterized by simplicity and speed of installation. Today you will learn how to conduct an independent installation of plasterboard design in the apartment.

How good is the plasterboard keeps heat

Plasterboard sheets, among other things, have a low heat transfer coefficient. This material is 0.15, which is ten times lower than that of a reinforced concrete. This allows you to significantly keep warm in the apartment and do not insert cold air or summer heat.

Usually, additional materials are used to enhance the effects of wall insulation, which are placed between the capital wall and the new design. Polystyrene or foam can be used for thermal insulation. With these materials it is easy to work, but they are not often used in insulation. The main problem is that to the end, their impact on the human body is not investigated. In addition, they are poorly absorbing sounds, and small rodents can damage them. The space is used more often due to the budget value and low heat resistance.

The lack of material is that it must be mounted only in gloves. The composition of the glass wool causes itching and irritation when entering the skin. Basalt wool is very similar to glass gamble, but they are made from rocks of magnetic origin. One of the highest quality heat and sound insulating materials is isolon. It is sold in thin sheets, which allows not too changing the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Installation of hyposphate sheets

If working with plasterboard to you in a novelty, you must first familiarize yourself with some of its features. Before mounting guide profiles on the alleged installation lines, a special tape is laid. It will serve as a contact with the plaster. In this case, the plasterboard will be fenced from the cold, which comes from the metal profile.

Metal profiles are usually installed at a distance of 2 cm from the wall. It is recommended to mount the frame from the galvanized profile. After installing the frame for it, plates of the insulation are superimposed. It is necessary to insert material vertically. For the front side of the profile, in no case should be the edge of the insulation.

Step-by-step insulation of plasterboard (video)

When installing additional insulation, they should conveniently be placed between the capital wall and drywall design. To install rolled insulation materials or better fastening the plates, it is recommended to glue them to the overhaul or use special dowel-umbrellas. They differ from the standard coarse hat.

So that the moisture does not accumulate in the insulation and he did not lose its properties, it is closed by a special vaporizolation membrane. This material will be an obstacle for warm air, which comes out of the room through plasterboard sheets. Next, plasterboard sheets are attached to the design using self-tapping screws. Non-metallic, but wooden attachments are often used, because they have less heat resistance. However, the tree has and minus - over time it is deformed.

After installing drywall, further decoration of the room is carried out. Following the processing of plasterboard, we wrote about the walls, wallpaper, tile, decorative stone or other finishing materials are glued on the walls.

Insulation of unheated premises

Many beginner builders are interested in installing a hypostertone in an unheated room. Immediately warn you: most professionals are against such installation. The fact is that even moisture-resistant material can not withstand strong temperature differences and humidity. If you still decided to install drywall structures in such a room, but do not want to mount additional thermal insulation, it is enough to fix sheets on the frame of metal profiles. The air between the design and the capital wall will provide some thermal insulation.

It is possible to warm the unheated premises, like a loggia or balcony, only under certain conditions. First, it should be glazed. It is not about simple wooden frames, and at least two-chamber glass windows. They provide reliable protection against moisture and cold. In addition to the walls, it will be necessary to insulate the floor and the ceiling, which are covered with high-quality moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Glk can be used in loggias that are attached to a residential room with a normal microclimate. Think well before proceeding to the installation of drywall in such premises, because the design "eats at least 6-7 cm space. The thermal insulation in the loggia is carried out in the same way as in ordinary rooms, but with some features. Initially, the wall is closed with waterproofing material.

conclusions

If you approach the warming of the walls responsibly, you can create a coziness atmosphere in any apartment. We hope that our simple instruction will help you in implementing this plan. Good luck.

Granulated polystyrene-based material. He has low density and light weight. Produced in plates of different thickness.

It is often used because of the low cost, convenience of installation, you can buy it in any construction store. The minuses include: plasterboard prefer to use for the walls of the walls, because it has several advantages over other finishing materials:

How to strip plasterboard walls without frame, video

Environmental design Do you repair and do you need ceramic tile? Ceramic tile can be used anywhere - on the market, in a construction supermarket, on a construction warehouse. But still make it more profitable in the online store. For this, with the help of a pencil and line, you need to place the place of fastening the guide profile on the surface, which is installed on the floor and the ceiling around the perimeter of the room with an indent to 5 cm.

It should be considered that this gap is sufficient for laying the internal wiring, insulation or sound insulation. How to detect the weak places of plaster? To detect such places, look for cracks. You can also catch a wall surface.

Stucco, which is poorly holding, sounds deaf. In this method, 12 mm plasterboard sheets are used, as well as when the windows are trimmed. First of all, it should be full surface preparation, namely: By applying step-by-step instructions and choosing plasterboard for wall decoration, you can get a great result by attaching a minimum effort. 1 - plasterboard sheet; 2 - sealant; 3 - profile guide, 4 - ceiling profile; 5 - gap for irregular walls or pipe wiring; 6 - direct suspension; 7, 8 - sealing tapeProfiles alignment is controlled by both planes (vertical, horizontal) by construction level. It is important, otherwise plasterboard sheets do not form a smooth surface.

In the case of fastening sheets of plasterboard on the walls with the help of glue, the working surface is pre-cleaned from dust. It is also here to make sure the reliability of the plaster layer, if there are problems, they are eliminated necessarily. If there is an on the walls of old paint, it is possible to remove it, or they make on the surface of the notches using a chisel (every 10 cm. Horizontal and every 30 cm. Vertical). For cutting plates need a ruler and a stationery knife.

First, incisions are made on one side of the sheet, after the stove bends in the place of the end, then the cardboard will be carried out on the other side. A neat incision in the form of a semicircle is easiest to make a manual saw. The heat-insulating indicators when using a type of material will depend on compliance with the installation rules and the thickness of the insulation.

To enhance the stiffness of the entire design, it is necessary from the same material (CD profile) to make transverse jumpers. This is done according to the following algorithm.

Wall insulation from the inside drywall do-it-yourself video

Preparation of materials and tools. Materials will need plasterboard itself, insulation (foam or minvat) Profiles Metal or wooden slats for frame, fasteners, silver ribbon, vaporizolation membrane, fluid against fungus. Wall processing with waterproofing putty - Additional measure to prevent the appearance of dampness. 1st layer applied vertical, 2nd horizontal.

Fasteners of plasterboard - often use umbrella dowels. For a regular apartment, buy GLK, but if there is an increased humidity, do not risk, and take the right G Clac. About the mount of this and other thermal insulation materials to the wall read in another article. Decide with the type of HCL in the type of edge and size.

Consider what the most popular manufacturer offers. Installation of carcass - We recommend still to stay on the metal frame, as it will last much longer than the rails from the bar. Before mounting the frame to the profile, glue a self-adhesive tape that will not allow the cold. Preparation of walls - They need to be cleaned, close the gaps, dry well, remove the tracks of the fungus or mold with a special brush or grinder.

Dry the walls or a construction hairdryer or a heater.

how warm the wall in the apartment from the inside by plasterboard: Materials and technology

In contrast to the same foam, mineral wool (and all heat-insulating materials in the form of a wool) - an excellent insulation under plasterboard, perfectly stacked in a frame that does not lead to the appearance of mold, fungus and other similar troubles. Also, such a thermal insulator is not lit, does not highlight dangerous gases and is not afraid of emergency soaking. In the present, the insulation of the walls of the walls of plasterboard from the inside is a process that consists of several main steps, each of which should pay special attention to: performing the insulation stacking, it is necessary to exclude open Sections of the wall, lay the material with a complete thickness without pressing.
It holds the heat itself not the wool itself, and the air between the fibers, and therefore it is not recommended to compress the material in any case, because the general level of thermal insulation may fall. Special attention should be paid to the sloping part of the wall, the mineral wool must fill out all the space;

Council. To achieve the greatest effect of thermal insulation, the design must be moved from the wall by 3-10 centimeters.
It is important to remember that the farther from the wall a guide profile will be installed, the smaller the number of insulation for it will be put on it. If the insulation of the walls from the inside of the Ministry of Service plus drywall with their own hands, then it is necessary to prepare a certain set of materials and tools in advance. The insulation of the walls of plasterboard from the inside has its advantages, but also a substantial minus: The useful area of \u200b\u200byour apartment is reduced.

However, this method is quite common.

The weight of the designed frame can exit quite decent. Provided that the walls are made of cellular concrete may occur serious difficulties with the fastening.
The framework is made taking into account the technical indicators of the selected insulation. The design is again extremely severe and only adds problems.

If it is not possible to insulate outside, then the optimal output is the insulation of the walls from the inside by the penplex and plasterboard.

Many people face the freezing of walls in apartments, private houses, on balconies or ground floors. The problem is solved by mounting the insulation on the outside of the building, but sometimes more expedient, cheaper and more reliable to do this from the inside.

When the walls are insulated there is one significant minus - frame and insulation to eat space.

Choose insulation

The heat insulating material uses foam, mineral wool, penplex.

Polyfoam - artificial material. It is characterized by medium hygroscopic, thermal conductivity and density. Without special additives easily flammable. They insulate the external walls, balconies, basement floors.
Mineral wool - tested material. It is characterized by high hygroscopicity and the average degree of thermal conductivity. It is rarely used as a heater under plasterboard for indoor rooms.
Penoplex - modern material obtained by thermal processing of foam. It is characterized by low hygroscopic and thermal conductivity. It has high density. Thanks to special additives, it is practically not lit. They insulate apartments, balconies, basement floors.

The optimal insulation for internal works is a penplex.

Warming from the inside: pros and cons

The insulation of the walls of plasterboard from the inside is a technology that goes into incision with the base of heat engineering. However, there are situations when it is impossible to perform work outside. In this case, this technology is indispensable.

From minuses can be noted:

Displacement point dew. The high probability that the walls will mock.
Reducing the size of the room. Metal frame, insulation and plasterboard "eat" a useful area.
Reducing the threshold of limit load on the wall. The insulation has a smaller density than brick or concrete. When mounting on an insulated insulation, the wall of heavy shelves may need anchor fastening.

Ways of insulation

After selecting the material, the question arises, how to insulate the wall with plasterboard with their own hands. In their homework use two ways:

Frameless.
Frame.

There are two ways to insulate the wall: frameless and with a frame, the first is possible only on small areas.

Frameless way

Common insulation option. Do not need a metal or wooden frame. It is used for the insulation of small smooth surfaces: the inland walls of apartments in the panel houses, basement floors, garages; Balconies and loggias.

Consider a sequence of warming actions:

Preparation of the wall to pasting the penplex.
For a frameless way, a smooth surface is needed, without severe chosel.
Let's start working on the walls of the walls with plasterboard with insulation from cleaning from wallpaper, plaster, paint. If you need to leave the unwritten wall of the brick, then knock on the entire protruding masonry solution.
The loose base from the old plaster can be treated with a concrete contact. It will strengthen it.
Potholes and cracks close up with cement-sandy mortar. We mix it in place or buy ready-made in bags.
Installation of polyplex.
We use for this "Pesoplex-35", which possesses all the necessary properties. Standard sheet size - 600 × 1200 mm, thickness - 20 - 100 mm. As a glue, we use special compositions that can be bought in the store. In extreme cases, tile glue is suitable.
Before gluing, process the surface of the sheet with a rigid brush. This will increase the clutch coefficient between the wall and the insulation.
Glue applied thin layer throughout the area with a corrugated spatula.
The pasting starts from the bottom angle. First we apply a sheet, push a little, keep a few seconds. Then let go.
Screaming seams process with silicone glue. If their width is more than 5 mm, then close on the mounting foam.
Additionally, you can fix the insulation of plastic dowels. The number of attachment points is 3-4 per 1 m2.
Installation of plasterboard.
Use dry glue mixed with water.
We apply it to the toothed spatula on the entire surface or stripes. It freezes within 24 hours.
Plasterboard with insulation can be divided by a layer of vaporizolation. The optimal option is the Penosol. Its shiny surface reflects heat from interior. Condensate is not formed. One "But": plasterboard can not be glued to the peosol. Previously need to mount the frame.
Finish finish.
Seams between sheets are squeaking with a painting ribbon. Then we put off, we can paint the wall with wallpaper.

Frame method

The insulation of the walls of the penplex and the casing of its drywall on the frame is relevant for large uneven walls.

For frame insulation, the wall does not need to clean or align the walls.

Preparation of the surface.
It can not be cleaned, small potholes do not shine. If necessary, we first throw wiring.
Mounting frame.
It happens metal and wooden. Metallic profile enjoys popular with consumers. Its size depends on the thickness of the insulation.
First, mount the lower guides, then the upper one. Confirm them to the wall and ceiling with the help of dowel screws 40 - 50 mm in increments of 2 - 3 pcs. on 1 m n.
Then set the vertical racks. First we insert them into the guide profile. Then screw to the wall with the help of suspensions. Fastening on the suspension levels all the irregularities of the wall. The setting step of vertical racks depends on the size of the leaf of the insulation. In our case, it is 600 mm.
Wooden frame for insulation of walls from within plasterboard is mounted according to the same rules as metal.
Wood bars process the antiseptic. This will avoid rotting, forming fungus and mold.
Installation of insulation.
One side of the fastener sheet is processed by a metal brush to improve the clutch with the wall. Totchatper applied glue on a sheet. Then we insert it into the gap between the vertical racks, press and keep a few seconds. After letting go. The glue will dry in approximately 24 hours.
Seams close up with silicone sealant. If they are wide, we use the mounting foam.
Metal profile is a cold bridge. Fill the profile cavity with heaters or foam to avoid freezing.
Installation of plasterboard sheets.
Each sheet applies to a metal profile or wooden bruus. Then screw it with self-strains of 20 - 25 mm. Between the outer sheel and insulation, you can stick a layer of vaporizolation.
Finish finish. The finished surface is putty, we paint with wallpaper.

The proposed technologies will help insulate the wall and tinkering drywall. The main thing is to comply with the rules and not violate the work of work.

The comfort of living in any house or apartment is in direct relationship and from a properly planned, efficiently operating heating system, and on the degree of thermal structures of the building. It is absolutely meaningless to spend considerable money for energy, if insufficient or poor-quality thermal insulation does not provide minimization of heat losses, and the heating devices are a significant part of its power to the no one who does not need the "heated street".

One of the "main ways" of heat leakage from residential premises is not having sufficient thermal insulation external walls. Well-owners of private houses - they have the opportunity to mount external insulation. But not all are free with such an optimal choice, and you have to look for other approaches. It would seem that nothing is particularly difficult - you can organize the insulation of walls from the inside of Minvata plus plasterboard, the layer of which will become the basis for. This method of thermal insulation, as they say, "has the right to exist", however, not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance.

Insulation of walls from the inside mineral wool - the event is quite controversial, melting quite a few "Underwater stones". And it is necessary to resort to it only in extreme circumstances, when there is absolutely no possibilities to perform thermal insulation from the outside. Let's try to figure out what the shortcomings of a similar approach are and how you can minimize them.

Several words about insulation - mineral wool

First of all, consider the property of the insulating material made in the title of the article.

Mineral wool as insulating material in industrial construction has been used for a long time. With the advent of new technologies for the production of minvati, which led to an increase in product quality, decrease the degree of harmfulness for humans and the environment, the scope of application has significantly expanded, and her Actively use for thermal insulation works in residential buildings.

It is necessary to prevent that under the concept of mineral wool there are several types of its types, which have significant differences, and not all varieties are applicable in the conditions of a residential building. The main parameters are reduced to the table, but a few words about each of the varieties should still be said.

Name of parameters	Stone Vata.	Shagkovat	Glasswater
Miniature
Middle Fiber Diameter, MKM	from 4 to 12	from 4 to 12	from 5 to 15
Material hygroscopicity for 24 hours (no more than)%	0,95	1.9	1.7
Buckle	not	yes	yes
Coefficient of thermal conductivity, W / (M-K)	0,035-0,042	0,46-0,48	0,038 -0,046
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.75 to 0.95	from 0.75 to 0.82	from 0.8 to 0.92
The presence of a binder,%	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Sintering temperature, ° С	600	250-300	450-500
Terms of use, ° С	up to 1000.	up to 250-300.	oT -60 to +450
Flavoring material	NG - non-combustible	NG - non-combustible	NG - non-combustible
Selection of harmful substances when burning	negative	yes	negative
Heat capacity, j / kg * to	1050	1000	1050
Vibration resistance	moderate	weak	weak

Three main types of mineral wool distinguish.

Famous glass gamble - it is obtained by melting quartz sand or glass combat. Files of about 5 ÷ 15 μm thick and from 15 to 50 mm long are pulled out of the replenished mass, which then use the binder component into light and elastic mats. Usually, glass gamble is easy to distinguish from other types of color - it is characterized by yellow shades.

The material is chemically inert, it is not rotated to rot, it will not become a nutrient medium for any form of biological life. The disadvantage - fiber glass gamble is very fragile, stroke, and can cause serious skin irritation when laying the material. This quality predetermines and undesirable the use of glass gambles in residential premises - microparticles of fibers can be transferred with dust, to enter the respiratory organs, cause allergic reactions or asthmatic attacks in people suffering from x-ronic diseases.

Thus, it is still not worth using glass gambler for insulation of the inner surface of the walls in residential premises.

Slotovat - the second representative of this class of insulation. We will not talk about it a lot - for the thermal insulation of the residential premises it will not fit. There is a lot of reasons for this. In addition to the disadvantages inherent in glass groove - fragility, knife, dust formation, the most hygroscopic is slag, gives the greatest shrinkage with the loss of insulation qualities. In addition, there are many questions to her and in terms of environmental purity. Raw materials for its manufacture - domain slags, sometimes have a very ambiguous composition and even radiation background, and increased acidity in a pair with absorption of moisture create a very aggressive medium, especially destructively affecting metal parts.
If you already take mineral wool for internal insulation - then exclusively basalt (stone). It compared to others is the most durable, elastic, its fibers are not so striking, do not cause skin irritation and mucous membranes. At the same time, it is all absolutely without loss of insulating qualities - the coefficient T of the provision is not worse than the glass gamble.

Stone wool is also able to absorb moisture, but the index of hygroscopicity is the lowest. The binder in the process of manufacture of such minvats is completely polymerized, and there can be no significant danger to the human body (definitely, if we are talking about high-quality, certified products of well-known manufacturers).

Basalt wool is extremely convenient in laying - mats or plates from it hold well, it can be easily cut, some of them can be fixed on the walls using the construction glue (this is very important for high-quality thermal insulation).

What is extremely important for residential premises - basalt wool refers to a group of non-combustible and non-combustible combustion of materials, and its heat resistance is the highest among all insulation produced in the form of panels, plates or mats.

In a word, the basalt stone wool, when they are still certain shortcomings, becomes the only right choice.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Turn to the theory - "underwater rocks" Wall insulation from within

So, subject to certain technological rules, the basalt mineral wool can be used for insulating works both outside and indoor inside. Why then is so many opponents of thermal insulation from the inside?

Probably, many were "bright spots" on the facade walls of high-rise buildings. Owners of apartments, not satisfied Thermal insulation of the walls go to considerable costs to use precisely external insulation.

Alone to perform such insulation - almost impossible. You have to resort to the services of companies, in which there are specialists in the field of industrial mountaineering. Agree that such work at heights, which include the preparation of the wall to thermal insulation, and the installation of the insulation, and the high-quality finishing finish - can not be cheap. Nevertheless, many are going on.

By the way, to fulfill such an external warming of the walls of the apartment will also face with the problems of an administrative nature. - It is necessary to obtain the appropriate permission. And there is no guarantee that "good" will be obtained. So, the refusal can be motivated by a violation of the appearance of the building or style of registration of the street, especially if the house is attributed to the category of architectural monuments or is part of the united city ensemble. Permission will not be obtained if the apartment is adjacent to the technological deformation seams of the structure, to the elevator mines, other elements of the building structure. In short, the difficulties in this matter, even in the presence of the required material resources, is preposed a lot.

So why not carry out inner insulation, because there is a mass advantages?

Performance of work is not tied to the time of year and for weather conditions - when you want.
Works on internal insulation, at first glance, require much less costs - and in terms of acquiring materials, and in terms of the possibility of their own forces, without attracting specialists.
In addition to insulation, the walls also receive efficient sound insulation.
Work can be carried out in stages, from one room to another, as far as possible and necessity.

However, all this "rainbow picture" is seriously spoiled disadvantages of such a method of insulation:

Working temporarily paralyzes life in a specific room and violates the convenience of staying in others - you have to transfer furniture, building trash inevitably spread around the apartment.
The total cost of insulation of external walls may not be so insignificant - it entails, in addition to thermal insulation activities, also large-scale work on recovery or even to fully update the interior decoration of the room.
Internal insulation will oblige the owners to radically revise the system of high quality
Wall insulation from the inside is always a loss in the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms.
And most importantly - by taking such insulation, the owners, winning in one, get a "mini slow motion" - a high probability of appearance and distribution on closed walls of dampness, mold, fungus, which not only leads to unpleasant odors, but also represents a certain danger of residents of tenants .

In addition, in raw walls, the processes of decomposition, erosion, corrosion of the building materials, of which they were erected and developing are much faster.

Consider the main shortcomings in more detail.

Is there much a decrease in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room?

It would seem - how many square can "steal"? But this - only at first glance seems insignificant.

Take for example a room with dimensions of 5 × 3.5 meters. The useful area of \u200b\u200bit is 17.5 m².

Suppose the room is two external walls (pos. 1) requiring insulation. A layer of mineral wool (pos. 2) with a thickness of 50 mm is applied as thermal insulation. From above, it is closed with plasterboard trim (pos. 3) in one layer - it will take another order of 15 mm with mounting and putty. In total, the length of the two sides of the room decreases by an average of 65 mm (even if not to take the possible curvature of the walls - in this case the difference will be even more).

Calculate the area: 3,435 × 4,935 \u003d 16.95 m². Total total loss of useful area in the room, which is so small in size, amounted to 0.55 m²! MoreoverThe calculation was taken, as already mentioned, the theoretical straightness of the walls and the minimum thickness of the insulation is only 50 mm.

If you add to this forced transfer of heating radiators, the expansion of the windowsill, then the losses look very significant. In the spacious room, you can somehow optimize the space, minimizing the consequences of such losses. But on a close kitchen, where in the account, sometimes, every centimeter is, it will be more complicated to get out of the position.

But this, as they say, the problems of the everyday, with which you can cope with "low blood." Much more serious is the case with questions lying in the plane of thermal physics.

Balance between high-quality insulation and condensate education

It is here that the most vulnerable place of the inner insulation of the walls. And the main "opponent" acts water, turning their vapor into liquid state (condensate) at a certain point of the meeting of the inner heat of the premises and cold from the street. A place condensate formation It has its own name - "dew point".

The dew point changes non-linearly and depends on the set of factors - the level of humidity, the temperatures outside from the inside, the design of the wall and the materials used.

It should be clearly understood that the level of absolute humidity in residential premises is often higher than in the open air. This is simply simply - in addition to a common wet background, depending on the climatic conditions of this locality, the time of year, established by the weather, etc., a considerable number of air vapors are added to it, which are formed in the process of everyday life of a person. Here you can include exhaled couples, cooking or boiling water, taking water procedures, wet cleaning, washing and drying linen, and in some cases, even special air humidifiers are used to enhance comfort.

Excessive humidity always requires a certain exit to comply with the overall balance. Part of the problem is solved by ventilating the premises or the operation of the ventilation system. But still a very large amount of water vapor find a way through the walls. Most building materials have good vapor permeability - they say that the "Wall breathe". Under the optimal conditions, the pair penetrate through the fences and freely enter the atmosphere, unless, of course, do not "stumble" to the dew point.

One of the main tasks in the heat-engineering calculations of the enclosing structures is to make the dew point as close as possible to the outer edge of the wall or even if it is limited, in a layer of an external insulation. Then, subject to certain conditions, condensed moisture is simply evaporated into the atmosphere, without causing the wall design of any harm.

It is much worse if the dew point falls on the inner surface of the wall. The moisture begins to accumulate, leading to negative consequences, which have already been talked above. In addition, if the wall is closed from the inside with a mineral wool insulation, then it begins to flick, losing its thermal insulation and noise absorbing Quality.

How to achieve such a state of affairs so that with internal warming "kill two hares" - provide the necessary total resistance to heat transfer and eliminate the formation of condensate on the walls? Alas, but in the stated conditions, with the complete absence of high-quality external thermal insulation, this task is impossible in principle. And it is more likely to talk about minimizing the negative consequences of such a method of insulation.

There are special calculation techniques to determine the optimal design of the insulating wall system. The main principle is based on the fact that to replenish thermal losses of the building, the total value of the thermal resistance of the wall structure must correspond to the table parameters calculated for the climatic conditions of this region. The table itself would occupy a lot of space in the article, so it is better to bring the RF card-scheme, which marks the required values \u200b\u200bof thermal resistance for walls, overlaps and roofing coatings. We are interested in the first value in this case, it is shown by purple numbers.

The thermal resistance value R (m² × ° FROM/ W) wall design, having, permissible, n layers are calculated by the formula:

R \u003d R1 + R2 + ... Rn

hN - the thickness of a particular layer

λn - the coefficient of the case of the material, from the ready-made layer.

The value of the coefficient is a table value that is easy to find on the Internet.

Calculating the resistance of each layer, it is possible to calculate the temperature drop on its outer and inner surface, and this will allow you to estimate the location of the dew point.

However, such accurate calculations are usually carried out by experts, formulas are quite complex and cumbersome, and not everyone will be under force. This task is now before us and not worth it. But in order to argue the thesis on the undesirability of insulation inside, let's see how the brick wall is 1.5 brick (380 mm thick) with different variations of thermal insulation.

All diagrams show two lines. Black is a graph of temperature change in the thickness of the wall structure. Blue is a temperature schedule of dew currents. Accordingly, the point of their intersection or coincidence is the place where condensate will be recycled. All calculations were conducted from winter conditions - the temperature inside the apartment + 20 ° FROM, outer - frost -20 ° С. To estimate, take the value R \u003d 3.24 m² × ° FROM/ W, which corresponds, for example, the region of the Middle Volga region for which Such temperatures are the average norm.

Calculations takes into account that air indoor air has a certain thermal resistance (on average - 0.13 m² × ° FROM/ W) and outside (0.04 m² × ° FROM/ W).

A. "Naked" outside and inside brick wall

1 - brick wall, H \u003d 0.38 m.

The graphs do not intersect - there will be no condensate. But the insulation qualities of such a wall do not meet the requirements - the heating devices will void the weight of the energy to warm the wall, ultimately - Heat disappears outside. We look at the table:

Wall Design Layers Material	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T Outside, [° C]
TOTAL	38	0.75
Indoors indoors		0.13	20	13.03
Brickwork	38	0.58	13.03	-17.85
Street		0.04	-17.85	-20

The resulting total value r \u003d 0.75 is even close to the desired 3.24.

B. Walking outside Wall