Draft floor in a wooden house: arrangement options, insulation, stages of work. Draft floor in a wooden house: we make a strong lag base for a finishing coat Draft floor at home

The subfloor is the prepared base for finish coat: laminate, linoleum, parquet. The subfloor is wood and concrete.

Advantages of a wooden floor:

environmental friendliness;
thermal insulation;
good breathability.

The disadvantage of a rough wooden floor is that this design does not resist well. high humidity. Therefore, wooden logs cannot be installed in baths and steam rooms.

Concrete screed also has its advantages:

durability;
soundproofing;
high strength;
resistance to moisture, burning and chemical attack;
fast installation and affordable price.

The disadvantage of the screed is its cold surface. Such a floor must be insulated.

Regardless of the choice of floor, the technology for the implementation of both structures is laborious and requires careful work.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor

The implementation of a wooden floor has its own technology:

Wood preparation.
Framing arrangement.
Insulation lining.

As the bars of the subfloor, you can use wood of the second or third grade. Those sides of the bars on which the floor covering will be laid should be leveled.

There are two ways to install logs: on the floor or on the base.

According to the first method, it is necessary to lay the logs of the lower trim and make grooves in them in those places where the logs of the upper harness will spread. The depth of the grooves is equal to the width of the upper bars.

The harness must be securely installed. To do this, perform brick columns that will serve as a support for the lags.

Installation of columns is carried out at the initial stage of the subfloor. This design is also called columnar foundation". The technology is like this:

Holes are dug along the line of the overlap at the same distance from each other. Pits size: 20x20x40 mm.
Gravel and sand are covered with layers at the bottom, tamping well. Then lay the reinforcing mesh.
The pits are filled with sand-cement mortar. Cement, sand and water are taken respectively in the following parts: 1:3:0.5.
Roofing material is laid on the hardened concrete.
Build brick pillars.

The distance between the lags depends on the thickness wood material: how thinner timber, the closer the lags are. The stacked beams must be fixed to each other.

The device of the log "on the base" involves the removal of the top layer of soil and backfilling the surface with fine gravel. Logs with overlap are laid on the resulting base, as in the previous version.

Placed on the bottom base waterproofing film, and a layer of insulation is laid on top.

At this stage, you need to decide on the finish coating. If it's leafy chipboard material, then before laying it, it is recommended to carry out a crate of transverse bars, which are fixed on supports.

Sheets floor covering lay on the crate so that their joints are located in the center of the jumpers.

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Draft concrete floor

When pouring the subfloor, flaws and irregularities are allowed.

The purpose of the rough screed is to equalize large surface differences in height and create a base for the finishing screed.

The step by step guide looks like this:

Determine the differences in irregularities and install beacons.
Prepare the base.
Prepare the cement mixture and pour the floor.
Check the condition of the tie.

First, you need to clean the surface of debris and use the level to determine the height of the screed.

Heaps serve as beacons cement mixture desired height on which are placed metallic profile. The guides are fixed with a solution. The height of the profiles is the level of the future screed.

For good adhesion of the rough screed to the base, it must be prepared. To begin with, all large depressions and cracks must be repaired with mortar. Next, the surface is primed to improve the adhesion of concrete to the base surface.

All wires will be embedded in the screed. But before pouring, all communications must be wrapped with insulating material and fixed to the base with dowels.

Around the perimeter of the room must be glued damper tape, which compensates for the deformation of the screed.

To prepare the solution, cement and sand are taken in a ratio of 1: 3. Water is added to the mixture gradually, until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. Approximately, the water consumption is 0.5 kg per 1 kg of cement-sand mixture.

Necessary tools for preparing the mortar and pouring the screed:

shovel;
mortar container or electric concrete mixer;
buckets;
overalls.

The solution is poured between the beacons and the rail - the rule distributes it. If voids form, then the mixture is reported to those places and equalized again.

The cement mixture must be prepared in small portions, as the solution quickly hardens. It is recommended to fill the floor in one day so that the surface is uniform.

When drying, the screed may shrink. To prevent this, you must take the following measures:

The first 3 days you can not walk on the screed.
Exclude drafts and direct sunlight in the room.
The next day after pouring, the screed must be covered with a film.

A good subfloor is the key to a solid structure of the entire room. Quality installation and strict adherence to technology will allow the foundation to serve for many decades.

Draft floors in wooden buildings have their own design nuances, they can be laid in several ways, depending on the architectural characteristics of the buildings.

Subfloor type	Technical features and brief characteristics
	They are more often used as bases for finishing coatings: glued board, piece natural parquet, different kinds laminate, linoleum, soft coatings. The main requirements for such structures are smooth and solid base capable of withstanding the maximum design loads. OSB boards, plywood, planed boards are used for manufacturing. To protect the structure from the harmful effects of moisture, traditional or modern materials. Such floors are recommended to be used during the construction of interfloor ceilings.
	The floors are installed under the logs on special cranial bars. Between the lags and the finished floor there is a space in which heaters can be laid. Small pieces and waste are used for manufacturing, which makes it possible to reduce financial losses.
	The most economical and reliable method of erecting rough floors. Taking into account the place of attachment, the bases can be insulated or under the finishing flooring. Distance between load-bearing beams is selected depending on the operational characteristics of the finishing coating.

When choosing a specific option, it is necessary to take into account the purpose of the building, the number of storeys, the materials and technologies used.

General requirements for subfloors

Regardless of the type of structures, building codes and regulations require the following activities.

Fire protection. All fire-retardant materials are divided into two groups according to their resistance to fire. The first group is used for wooden houses with stove heating. The implementation has a large assortment solutions, impregnation is done with a pneumatic spray gun or paint brushes. Required condition- lumber must be dry. The number of layers is determined taking into account the purpose of the wood.

Protection against putrefactive processes and biological damage to wood. Work is recommended to be carried out with effective antiseptics, all of which reliably protect lumber from premature destruction due to high humidity. The disadvantage of such materials is the release of chemical compounds into the air. True, the concentration is considered safe for residents. For those who do not want to risk their health, there is a completely safe way lumber protection - impregnation with natural technical oils.

Important. All impregnations and treatments must be carried out before laying the lumber, and not after. Another nuance - great attention should be paid to the ends, they are most susceptible to moisture. Fresh propyls and ends are subject to additional impregnation.

Mandatory presence of vents to ensure natural ventilation of wooden structures. No impregnation will save the wood if it is not constantly ventilated. The parameters of the vents are specified in SNiP 31-01-2003, the diameter and location of the holes depends on the area and height of the underground. The protection of the underground from the penetration of rodents, the openings are made of metal gratings, the geometry of the products is not regulated.

Practical advice. Be sure to check the effectiveness of natural ventilation, if it is not, then the subfloors will not last the expected amount of time. To check, you can use smoke or open fire. In the absence of visible air currents, measures should be taken immediately to improve the performance of natural ventilation.

Compliance with the requirements of building codes guarantees long-term and safe operation floor coverings. For example, we will consider two methods for arranging subfloors.

Draft floors on load-bearing wooden beams

The beams are laid on the foundation tape or strapping beam. There is no fundamental difference between the two methods, it all depends on the chosen method of building a house. A prerequisite is that between wooden structures and concrete elements there must be reliable waterproofing, most often two layers of roofing material are used. This is the most cheap material providing reliable hydroprotection. In addition, the timber must be treated with any antiseptics.

The beam must lie strictly in one plane, the installation is done using a level. From two sides round logs must be cut with an axe.

Advice. In the absence of experience with an ax, it is better to purchase finished material. But keep in mind that in terms of strength it will be inferior to hewn round timber, and in terms of cost it will significantly exceed it. The draft floor is attached to the lower base of the bars, the flooring will be made of OSB. But if you wish, you can use any materials at hand, and not only wood.

Step 1. Unscrew the beam fasteners. The bars are screwed to the harness with metal corners and long screws. The draft floor is installed only on pre-exposed beams, in connection with this, their dismantling is required.

Step 2 Carefully remove the beam from the seat and turn it face down.

Step 3 Attach the OSB strip to the bottom of the beam with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails. The width of the strip should be 10–15 cm greater than the width of the flat area of the beam.

Important. The length of the screws should be ≈ 70% greater than the thickness of the plate, otherwise the fixation will not be reliable. This rule applies to all cases of fixing structures to each other.

While tightening the screws, press the drill with great force, the plate should not rise. Inexperienced builders do not press the screws with sufficient force during screwing, the screw rotates a little in the slab, due to which a gap appears between it and the beam. This greatly worsens the parameters of the subfloor.

Using the same technology, attach sheets to all beams. If you do not have OSB, then you can use low-grade, including unedged, boards. The main condition is that the bark must be removed. The thickness of the boards is ≈ 10–20 mm, the width does not matter. The draft floor does not have noticeable loads, its task is to serve as the basis for laying heaters, and they are light in weight.

Step 4 Install all dismantled beams in place, secure them with metal squares and self-tapping screws. Check the position again, if necessary, adjust them with pads of different thicknesses. Never use lumber for underlays, they will definitely sag over time, which will disrupt the horizontal finish of the floor covering. For linings, use durable moisture resistant Construction Materials. Another important condition is that the dimensions must be equal to or greater than the areas of the beam, which will allow you to evenly distribute the load.

Step 5 Lay pieces of OSB in prepared places. During the preparation of sheets, there is no need to take exact measurements, small gaps not only simplify the laying process, but also improve natural ventilation rough floor. Thus, by the way, you can save lumber.

Practical advice. Never walk on subfloor, it is not designed for such a large weight. During installation last row you have to walk on the beams. If you wish, you can foam the joints of sheets and beams, but this operation is not considered mandatory. We have already mentioned that the tree must be ventilated. As for the increase in heat losses, it is insignificant.

Step 6 Lay a vapor barrier, never use an ordinary polyethylene film for this purpose high pressure. The fact is that it does not let steam through, as a result, water will always accumulate in the heat insulator, it is in the insulation layer that the condensation point is located. High humidity significantly reduces the heat saving performance of mineral wool and has a very negative effect on wooden structures. Moisture must be constantly removed from the insulation layer, and only modern membranes can provide this.

Fix the vapor barrier to the beams with a stapler, the overlap of the layers is at least 10 cm, the joints should be carefully sealed with adhesive tape.

Step 7 Lay a layer of thermal insulation. For these purposes, you can use rolled and pressed mineral wool or foam. It is advisable to use mineral wool. Why?

Minvata does not burn. In connection with such characteristics of resistance to fire, it is also used as a fire barrier.
The material is completely safe. Mineral wool is made from basalt, which is natural glass of volcanic origin.
Basalt wool is not afraid of rodents, which is very important for wooden houses.

Pressed and rolled cotton is produced standard sizes, they are recommended to be taken into account during the installation of beams. The width of the wool is 60 cm, the distance between the beams is recommended to be ≈ 55–58 cm. Due to such dimensions, the insulation is tightly attached to the structures, heat losses are reduced, and the microclimate in the room is improved. In addition, the sheets do not need to be cut, which speeds up work and reduces waste.

The thickness of the insulation is at least 10 cm. Make the second layer with an offset to cover the joints. If a wooden house was built in a cold climate zone, then the insulation layer must have a thickness of at least 15 cm.

Step 8 Close the thermal insulation with a waterproof membrane. The technology of its laying is no different from the algorithm for installing a vapor barrier membrane.

Step 9 Nail slats about 2 cm thick to the beams, they will serve as a log.

Practical advice. Professional builders strongly do not recommend laying the floor directly on the beams. Due to the bars, ventilation of the finish coating is provided, and it is necessary regardless of the type of floor.

Further work depends on the technology you have chosen and the materials of the floor finish.

The device of draft floors on logs

These options are used in wooden buildings built using the most modern technologies. The floor will be made of glued moisture-resistant plywood 2 cm thick, the flooring method will be on logs.

Step 1. Measure 120 cm from one side of the floor, this is the length of standard sheets. If the plywood is studded, then measurements must be taken very carefully, otherwise the studs will not enter the groove along one line. The use of studded plywood eliminates drafts, which is very important for quality styling clean coverage. For proper styling sheets, use coated thread.

Using a nail with thread (left) and coated thread (right) for marking

If the house is very large and the length of the thread is not enough, then a rope should be used first. Drive nails into the extreme logs, taking into account the dimensions of the plywood, and pull the rope between them. Based on the length of the coated rope, drive one or more additional nails into the joists along the line of the stretched rope. Now the marks can be applied without fear, they will all be accurately located on the same line.

Step 2 Lay out the first row of plywood on logs, while first marking the extra width.

Important. The thickness of plywood is selected taking into account the distance between the lags and the maximum load on the floor. This means that the sheets can be not only two centimeters in thickness.

Step 3 Apply liquid nails to the logs. They have several advantages: they significantly speed up the construction process, the subfloor will never creak and guarantee sufficient fixation strength. In addition, liquid nails allow you to easily correct small errors. Glue should be applied in the middle of the lag. If the edge of the sheet lies in the middle of the log, then the glue, respectively, is applied only to a narrow section of the element.

Step 4 Turn over the plywood sheet and attach it with ordinary nails. According to existing rules the distance between them should be within ten centimeters along the perimeter of the building, and the length is 6–7 cm. The distance between the hardware along the log is 15 cm, inside the building ≈30 cm.

Important. Plywood can expand from moisture, leave a gap of a few millimeters between the sheets. It is convenient to use nails as a template, insert them between the sheets, and remove them after fixing. There are situations when the edges of the sheet do not fall in the middle of the log. In these cases, the material must be carefully trimmed, taking into account the above requirements.

If the sheets get caught in the vents or other engineering Communication, then measure their size and exact location, then, using a manual electric circular saw cut off the excess.

Nails are much easier and faster to hammer with a pneumatic hammer. And how quickly to do it manually?

Put in left hand several nails, they are all mixed, hats and points are located on different sides.
With your right hand, grab the nails by the hats, carefully pull them out, turn them over desired position and put to the rest. Now all the hats are on top.
Pry the nails one at a time with your thumb, grab them with your index and middle fingers and set them with a point on a sheet of plywood. Do not forget that you need to drive in nails at a slight angle to the plywood veneer, otherwise it may crack.
With the first light blow of the hammer, bait the nail, and with the second strong hammer it in until it stops.

You can be sure that after a few minutes of training, the speed of nailing will not differ from the machine, and the quality will not suffer.

Step 5 Cut to size last page and fasten it to the joists.

The rows of joints should be staggered, for this the next one must start with half the sheet or the remaining segment. Docking tongue-and-groove plywood requires considerable effort. To do this, use a piece of the bar, apply it to the edge and connect the spike and groove with strong hammer blows. Apply blows alternately on each side, do not allow sheets to be skewed, remember about damper gaps.

Step 6 Mark the edges of the sheets protruding beyond the contour of the lag. It is better to use a coated thread, carefully cut off the excess along the line.

Important. Be very careful with electric woodworking tools. Injuries from them are complex, can cause disability. Tools must be serviceable and adjusted, and cutting devices must be sharp. Never remove factory guards.

Step 7 Proceed to sealing the opposite edge of the floor. The work will go faster if you do not take the dimensions of each sheet, but attach the whole ones. Then you should measure the width of the protruding pieces and transfer the lines to the front surface. Cut off the excess according to the marks with an electric saw.

For the final sheathing of the subfloor, most of the previously obtained segments can be used, due to this the estimated cost will decrease wooden house.

How to avoid mistakes during the construction of the subfloor

The main advice - do not try to simplify existing technologies on your own. Only an amateur thinks that he is smarter than everyone else and can do the work faster and cheaper. All rules were developed taking into account many years of building experience, each technological operation has its own specific purpose. An improperly laid subfloor causes deflections and squeaks.

Before starting work, check the position of the lag. The distance between the lags should not exceed 58 cm, this will allow you to tightly lay the insulation.
No need to save on the size of the beams. During the operation of the house, it becomes necessary to install heavy furniture, the likelihood of increasing loads should be foreseen in advance.
In place of masonry brick oven always reduce the distance between the lags or bars. During construction, use only healthy lumber without natural diseases and defects.
Boards for the manufacture of the subfloor must have low relative humidity. If the draft floor is laid before the construction of the roof of the house, then work should be done only in good weather. Waterlogged boards not only lose their original bearing characteristics, but also decrease in size during drying. As a result, the fastening is weakened, while walking the floor sags and creaks. It is very difficult to fix problems, often it is necessary to completely dismantle the coating.
If the draft floor is located between the floors of a wooden house, then the cranial bars should be stuffed along the beams. Stuffed across reduce the height of the premises.
When laying membrane vapor or waterproofing, carefully read the instructions. The material indicates which side it should be to the insulation. The fact is that steam can only go out in one direction, if the fabric is laid incorrectly, then there will be no positive effect. As a result, the subfloor will be constantly wet, and the effectiveness of thermal insulation will noticeably deteriorate.
Do not save on vapor barrier, cover the lags as well, attempts to cut the roll into small pieces always give a negative result. In terms of footage, the savings are scanty, and Negative consequences noticeable.
Always leave a ventilation gap between the rough and finish flooring. At the same time, consider the location for the air outlet vents.
All hidden wooden structures must be treated with antiseptics. We have already mentioned that the simplest, cheapest and safest antiseptic is ordinary oil or drying oil. The processed boards have to be dry. If the antiseptic is quickly absorbed, then the treatment should be repeated.
Practitioners recommend covering the ground under the floor of the first floor plastic wrap or ruberoid. Due to this, the amount of evaporated moisture decreases, the operating conditions of the building are significantly improved.
A warm draft floor is recommended to be done only under the living quarters of the first floor. There is nothing to save in unheated ones, an expensive complex cake is not needed.

The unconditional implementation of building codes ensures that during the operation of wooden houses there will be no unpleasant situations. Elimination of the consequences of violation of technology in all cases is much more expensive than compliance with the rules for the construction of subfloors.

Construction technologies are constantly changing. Modern methods are often more effective, but not always cheap. In particular, one of the most affordable flooring technologies is a subfloor along logs. Yes, it's not perfect, but so far it's the best cheap way make the floor. In any case, in those regions where the price of wood is still low.

In the construction of the floor, the rough flooring can perform two functions. The first is to serve as the basis for laying heat, hydro, soundproof materials. The second function is to serve as a support for finishing flooring or floor screed under the floor covering. Moreover, insulating materials can also be used to improve performance.

One of the options for underfloor heating and tiles using

Is it possible to make a finishing floor without a draft? Basically, it is possible, but in this case it is more difficult to achieve the required characteristics. If the requirements are not too high (dacha, summer or guest house, technical building) and it is important to get only necessary minimum, you can do without the subfloor.

If the requirements are high (for a residential or heated building), as a rule, a construction without a rough flooring requires more money. Why? For the subfloor, inexpensive materials are used. The main selection criterion is strength. On the appearance attention is not paid and this allows the use of inexpensive materials. For example, unedged board (after appropriate processing), construction plywood, a slab of lean concrete. Other materials are laid on the rough base and claims to their strength are minimal. The main emphasis is on "protective" characteristics. After all, the load falls on the floor structure and rough flooring, and not on these materials. And they are usually relatively inexpensive.

All draft bases can be divided into two large groups: dry and wet. Wet include all types or. But this is not about them. We will talk about dry ones, and along the lags and beams.

To date, there are more modern technologies, but the subfloor on the logs remains the cheapest. This traditional version, which has been modified to fit the modern requirements comfort and economy. But even with the changes, it is difficult to achieve those parameters that are considered the norm today. In particular, sound insulation, and thermal insulation cannot be ideal. You can only get closer to the norm. But the solution will not be the cheapest.

Ceilings on wooden beams

Beams in a floor structure are wooden or metal elements that rest on the foundation and serve to transfer the load. Since our wood is still the most cheap tool, most often we have wooden beams. They are made from timber - solid, glued, or spliced beams (from several boards) are used.

Beams can only rest on the foundation, they can have intermediate supports. In houses with a subfloor, piers serve as intermediate supports; in the absence of a subfloor, brick columns are laid down or columns are made of reinforced concrete. Waterproofing is laid on these supports in two layers (roofing material or something like it, but not a film), and beams or logs are supported on the waterproofing.

Beams and logs - the difference

How are beams different from lag? In short, beams are load-bearing structures, but logs are not.

Beam - a linear element of load-bearing structures, based on both ends (unlike the console) and working mainly in bending. As a rule, the section of the beam is rectangular or square. In wooden houses they also make hewn log. The installation step of the beams and their cross section is considered during the development of the project. Logs are also prescribed, but they are not so critical, so their characteristics can be changed during the construction process.

Logs are not elements load-bearing structure and they are made simply from a thick board, which is often placed “standing up” - they are supported on a narrow part. With such an installation between the lags, it is convenient to lay the insulation - when choosing the installation step of the lag, the width of the insulation is also taken into account. The draft floor along the logs can also be with the location of the insulation on top. This type is called a floating floor, since the finish coating does not have direct contact with the base (in this case, with the rough flooring).

There are two important moments. The first - when using mineral wool as a heater, it is necessary to measure the actual width of the roll or plates. It doesn't always match what is advertised. The second - the distance between the lags should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then it can be put in a thrust and it will be held due to the force of elasticity. This makes installation easier. But there is another advantage to this solution. Even if the insulation “bends” a little or dries out during operation, no gaps will appear between the cotton wool and the lag, as the material will straighten out.

When laying insulation, the main thing is not to leave gaps and minimize cold bridges

When using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam as a heater, the step lag (and their cross section) is also better to choose. But in this case, "compress" it will not work. The plates are cut into pieces of a slightly smaller width than the distance between the lags, and the gaps are filled with mounting foam.

Lag installation step

The installation step depends on the board from which the lags are made:

for a board with a thickness of 40 mm, the distance between the centers of the support is 80-90 cm;
50 mm - distance 100-110 cm;
board thickness 60 mm - 120-130 cm.

The draft floor is the basis for the finishing floor, so it must be leveled to the horizon. The smoother the base, the less problems when laying other materials. Therefore, already when installing the lag, their edge is brought out at the same level.

One of the possible options

If the step of the beams is small - up to 80 cm, the rough flooring can be laid immediately, without a log (board 40 mm). With a large step of the beams, logs are laid across, and the flooring of the subfloor is laid on them.

A couple of comments about wide board. If the budget is limited, you can save money by making prefabricated logs. Two boards 25 mm thick cost less than one board of the same length 50 mm wide. We buy two boards, put them one to the other, connect them with nails or self-tapping screws (preferably nails). We put fasteners on both sides in a checkerboard pattern. They put the logs “on edge”, so that they even surpass the board in strength - there is less chance of a crack appearing along the wood layer. There is one more nuance that will help to avoid the "torsion" of the prefabricated log: we arrange the boards so that the annual rings are located towards each other.

Floor structures on wooden beams

When constructing a subfloor, a board is more often used. Basically, it serves only as a basis for laying insulation. The load from the insulation is small, so you can not knock down the flooring tightly, but leave a gap of up to 1 cm. But such a sparse laying is suitable for materials with sufficient density. When using bulk thermal insulation, you will have to make a continuous crate.

With a large length of beams or lags, intermediate jumpers are also made for a more stable geometry

Draft floor along the lags under the screed (floating floor)

Can be done if necessary. The only question is that the beams can withstand the load. This is calculated separately. How good is this design? The fact that:

The usual "cold" floor can be made warm. You can even make it heated (if the beams withstand).
On top of the concrete slab, you can lay tiles, lay sheet material and lay coatings that are demanding on the base - laminate, pvc tiles, linoleum.

By the same principle, you can make a draft floor according to wooden lags without cement. As a top layer, you can lay plywood, OSB and other sheet materials that you consider suitable in two layers. On such a base, again, you can lay tiles and any other type of finish.

What lags and board to use? It is possible / necessary to select, since the thickness of the board depends on the installation step of the lag:

the distance between the lags is 80 cm (permissible up to 100 cm, but not under a screed or tile, under lighter coatings) - board 40 mm;
installation step lag 50-60 cm, board 30-35 mm;
for boards less than 30 mm, support is required with a distance of 35-40 cm (depending on the specific thickness).

The draft floor in this case may not be solid, but with gaps. Under concrete slab it is best to take extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam as a heater high density. You can foam glass (foam glass), but it is very expensive. These materials normally withstand the weight of a monolithic screed. By the way, since it fits on an unstable foundation.

How to ensure long-term operation

With this design of the overlap, wooden beams, it is important to protect the subfloor board from decay as best as possible. If the subfloor is below, care must be taken to ensure that it is ventilated (ventilated) and that the humidity in the subfloor is as low as possible. We need a blind area around the house (better insulated), as well as a drainage system.

As an additional measure, a film with sand is used. A dense PVC film is spread on the ground in two layers - the joints are glued with adhesive tape, brought to the foundation and fixed there. A layer of sand is poured on top of the film (at least 5 cm, but more is better). The film does not let in most of the moisture (if it is intact and the joints are well glued), and the sand absorbs the excess, and then slowly dries out. The same method is also used using any other draft floor along the logs.

Draft floor from OSB (OSB). You can remove the rough flooring from the board and lay the slab in two layers

As already mentioned, the subfloor board can be edged or unedged. A prerequisite is operating humidity. Few people will lay chamber drying, but the board must be dry - at least 6-9 months of drying. If the floor of the first floor is laid, the material must be processed protective compounds. Humidity in the underground will be high, so the quality of processing should be good. It is better to process several times. Chemistry for wood today is more than enough. You can select properties. If needed folk remedies is a processed oil.

Ground floor above ventilated subfloor

The overlap of the first floor over an unheated underground is different in that it must be well insulated. If you are not going to do floor heating, you need to make sure that it is comfortable even with working products. To do this, it is better to make two layers of insulation and place them in different directions.

In this design, the rough flooring is only a support for the first layer of insulation, so taking a thick board here does not make sense. Usually they take 25 mm, process it and use it for filing. In the construction shown in the figure, a cranial bar is nailed to the bottom of the beams. Usually its cross section is 25 * 25 mm. A rough roll board is placed on the cranial bar. The segments are short - the length is equal to the step between the lags. Substandard length can be taken on this flooring, but there is less waste if the length is a multiple of the lag step.

Waterproofing is laid on the boards. Please note that if mineral wool is used as a heater, the material must be vapor-permeable. It should make it possible to remove moisture from the insulation. If the insulation is foam, polystyrene foam, foamed glass, they themselves do not conduct steam and this layer is generally irrelevant.

The thickness of the insulation should be such that its upper edge is 2-3 cm below the edge of the beam. This is necessary to ensure the ventilation gap. Wood changes humidity and it is necessary to give this opportunity, leaving a ventilation gap.

A cross frame is laid across the beams. These are lags. Their height depends on the required thickness of the insulation, and the installation step depends on what kind of flooring you plan on top. The dependence of the board thickness on the lag step is described above. But it can be not only a board, but also any sheet material.

Waterproofing flooring at a distance of 2-3 cm from the surface of the insulation

A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation. This time, the material should retain both vapor and liquid. In the case of using mineral wool, it is better to use a membrane with one-way vapor permeability (for example, or Izover, other brands). It must be laid so that steam can escape from the heater. This solution is better, as it makes it possible to maintain normal humidity in the floor cake.

There are also options with one layer of insulation (pictured above). This method is convenient if, according to thermal engineering calculations, the thickness of the insulation is not too large.

What is the rough floor made of on the logs

The draft floor can be made from boards (edged or unedged without bark) and any sheet material, including drywall. Sheet materials include:

Now we are not talking about environmental safety listed materials. Here everyone makes his own decision. The point is that any of these materials can be put on logs. These materials fulfill their role as foundations. The thickness of each material depends on the installation step of the beams or lag. Once you decide on a specific material, it will not be difficult to choose the thickness.

Building a wooden house is initially a choice in favor of environmentally friendly materials. When building a wooden house, an important issue is the equipment of a warm and even floor, which will contribute to natural air exchange and maintain a favorable microclimate in the premises. How to make a floor wooden house with your own hands, so that it meets all the qualities of a reliable coating and lasts a long time, while maintaining an attractive appearance?

Installation Basics

Everything possible options floors acceptable for a wooden house are divided into two types: plank and concrete. Wooden floors in their structure are similar to a layer cake of several components:

Draft floor, insulation (thermal insulation, waterproofing);
Finished floor, directly floor covering.

If necessary, construction between the layers, you must additionally lay all the heating elements and cables.

The floor in a wooden house can be erected on logs or on poles. The latter method is used when the structure is built without concrete foundation. WITH monolithic foundation everything is much simpler, but if for some reason you don’t have time to upload concrete base, then you will have to use one of the options for laying the floor on the beams. Either beams leading into walls (span width 4 m) or beams with supporting pillars, which look like a columnar foundation.

Laying on support poles.

What are the floors in a wooden house, you can see in the photo taken during the repair work. According to the type of construction, single-layer and two-layer floors are distinguished. The coating in one layer is installed on logs or without them - this is directly determined by the thickness of the boards and the step between the beams. If the distance between the beams does not exceed 60 cm, then when building a house from the board, you can put it on the beams themselves.

When constructing a two-layer floor, a subfloor is additionally mounted. What it is? The draft floor can be considered the basis for the finishing layer. A heater is laid on the draft layer attached to the underside of the beams. An expanded clay layer 8 cm high is suitable for this role. To completely insulate the floor, a filler is placed in the space between the rough and finishing layers, while a gap of at least 2 cm must be left to ensure air circulation.

Arrangement and insulation of the rough coating of a wooden house.

The floor, concrete or wooden, which is being built in the house with your own hands, needs. Among modern heaters most commonly used mineral mats and mineral wool, polyurethane. The desire to insulate the floor as much as possible must comply with building codes. Do not lay a thick layer of insulation that fills the entire distance between the rough and finish layers. A gap of a couple of centimeters must be required.

Floors in a wooden house should be characterized by high strength, as well as be well ventilated. For this, they make a draft layer. The construction of subfloors in a wooden house is considered a necessity for several reasons. Firstly, they provide a frame of rigidity and serve as the basis for insulation, insulation and flooring of the finishing layer. They also create an air gap, which ensures the preservation of heat inside the building, eliminates the processes of decay of the boards and the distortion of the house. All this ensures the preservation and durability of the entire floor covering.

Rough layer device

The choice of the option of erecting a subfloor with your own hands is determined by the type of foundation formed during the construction of the house itself. The draft layer can be installed both on floors in the form reinforced concrete slabs or beams, and on the ground. In any scenario, you first need to carry out preparatory work.

Important element preparation - make ventilation holes.

The preparatory stage before installing the subfloor includes a device ventilation holes in the walls of the building, which are decorated with decorative lattices from the outside. All wooden structures, including the walls of the log house, must be without fail treat with an antiseptic.

The calculation and purchase of materials for the rough layer is carried out on the basis of the existing foundation for its laying. If the floor is laid on the ground, then it is necessary to use a structure that involves a double subfloor flooring. Initially, the logs are installed on supports (bricks can be used), small pieces of the board are laid on them as a shock absorber, and only then the bars and logs are laid. Each stage of work must be accompanied by constant monitoring of the level of the horizon so that the installed floor does not have a slope.

In order for the wooden floor to serve for a long time, it is necessary to treat all the details with an antiseptic.

The materials used for rough floors in a wooden house usually require additional processing. Logs and beams are pre-planed or cut on the machine, removing bevels and slopes. Ideally, they should be absolutely even. Before installation, all parts are treated with antiseptic preparations to prevent the formation of fungus and premature destruction of the tree.

The draft floor in a wooden house is assembled from the following materials:

Brick - pillars with parameters of 40x40x20 cm are made from it, which are placed on a cement mortar;
Waterproofing material - for this, dense polyethylene or other similar material is chosen that can prevent the lag from rotting;
Boards or plywood - are used directly for laying subfloor layers (the first layer can be made from boards, the second from plywood);
Corners and bolts (metal) - logs are attached to brick pillars on them;
Insulation - is laid together with another layer of waterproofing on the lower layer of the subfloor.

The amount of all materials is calculated based on the area of \u200b\u200bconstruction and the parameters of the installed lag.

Subfloor installation

How to make a floor in a wooden house yourself? You should start with the installation of the draft part. Logs must be installed if the beams are initially fixed on the walls of the log house, the reason for this is long distance between the beams. To give the future floor rigidity, brick supports are pre-installed under the logs.

Installation of a log for a subfloor.

The lag mount is milestone when constructing the floor. The quality of the future flooring will depend on the quality of the work performed. It is best to attach the logs to the foundation. To do this, first around the perimeter make a strapping of long boards, and then the logs themselves are attached to it with metal corners or bolts.

At this stage of the installation of draft floors in a wooden house, it is required to retreat 2 cm from each wall. All the cracks formed are laid with a heater. Rigid fastening of the log at this moment is not required, they must be fixed so that there is no displacement during operation.

This method is used when the lag support distance exceeds 10 cm, if this distance is less, then the lags are also installed, but a bar is additionally placed on top, which is fixed in the walls of the house. The places where the beam is connected to the wall of the log house are measured, after which an incision is made in accordance with the dimensions, adding 2 cm to the expansion of the tree from moisture.

When the lags are installed, it is possible to attach cranial bars, which are smaller in size than the lag. The bars are attached to the side at the bottom of the lag. Then boards are placed on them, which are not fixed. Such flooring allows the tree to naturally expand.

Subject to the technology of laying the subfloor, even when expanding wooden elements moisture will not damage the structure.

After laying the first layer of rough floors with their own hands, insulation is laid. First, waterproofing is laid on the entire surface of the floor, which is fixed to the walls. The width of its layer on the wall should be equal to the height of the entire floor structure up to the final finish. It is recommended to fix the waterproofing above this level, and then simply cut off the excess. The joints of the material are fastened with a construction stapler.

Thermal insulation is a must.

All laid layers are covered with a vapor barrier, which is also attached to the walls of the log house. The joints of the material are glued with adhesive tape, and its fastening is carried out with a construction stapler. If the insulation was laid in such a way that there was a ventilation gap, then after the installation of the vapor barrier is completed, you can proceed to the flooring of the second layer of the subfloor. If the insulation was laid at the level of the lag, then first you need to install special slats on the sides - they will press down on the insulation to form the necessary gap. Detailed guide how the floor is laid in an ordinary wooden house can be found in various video tutorials.

The flooring of the second layer of the subfloor from boards or plywood is done in the same way as the logs were fixed. 2 cm also retreats from the walls, insulation is placed in the resulting gaps.

Finished floor installation

After the draft floor in a wooden house is installed, you can proceed to the arrangement of the finishing layer. For laying a finished floor, it is recommended to use boards made by milling. This floor layer is laid at a height of up to 5 cm from the rough flooring.

For work, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm are taken, made with a groove-thorn connection - such a connection facilitates installation and guarantees the reliability of laying the floor. On boards with reverse side Initially, special recesses are made - breathing holes, which provide free air exchange under the coating. Other types of boards are also suitable for the finishing floor: tongue-and-groove with a fold or with a trapezoidal or straight segmented spike. It is more difficult to assemble a finishing floor from such boards in a wooden house, because they do not have a breather on the reverse side, and their back parts are not processed, as a result of which they will not fit snugly against the logs.

A floor installed from such material will be less reliable. The most difficult option in terms of labor costs is the installation of a fine coating of unedged board. In this case, it is best to spend time processing the front sides of the material.

Finishing floor boards are placed on logs, they must be placed in annual layers in different directions, this will make your floor even, strong and durable. Often, fiberboard sheets are used for the finishing floor. In this case, the space between the walls and the floor will have to be closed with a rail.

The skirting boards are joined at a right angle, then they are cut along the length and corners and connected at an angle of 45 degrees. They are nailed to the walls with nails at a distance of 70 cm, the joints are additionally attached.

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After completing all the work on the installation of the rough and finishing floor, you can gradually engage in finishing. The final floor finish in a wooden house can be carried out different ways. For a wooden house, it would be logical to choose a floor covering from the same material. In this case, you have three options for finishing the floor: parquet, parquet board or laminate.

Parquet flooring is called not only the most respectable, but also one of the most durable. Parquet elements are attached to the base of the floor with glue, if necessary, they are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. After the work on laying the parquet, it is covered with a special varnish; for the greatest protection against abrasion, the varnish can be applied not in one layer, but in several. Competently made laying of parquet guarantees its operation for 20 years.

A parquet board is a kind of parquet, but it is not made from solid wood. This is a special design of their three layers, the top of which is veneer of precious wood, treated with varnish. Such a board is easier to mount, if necessary, it is much easier to carry out and dismantle.

The third option for finishing the floor for a wooden house is a laminate with a wood grain pattern. It is based on a fiberboard panel, protected from below with moisture-proof paper. Above the fiberboard panel is located decorative paper imitating the pattern of wood, which is covered with acrylate resin on top. Laminate is the most budget option floor finishes from all of the above.

Everyone understands that it is impossible to live indoors without arranging the floor. Whether it's a house or an apartment, you can't do without it. But whether a draft floor is needed in a wooden house, not everyone knows. Why do we need additional expenses for its arrangement? Isn't it possible to get a clean finish? And what is meant by this name? This article is for those who want to figure it out and make a subfloor on their own.

What is a subfloor?

The draft floor is a kind of base for a finishing coating, creating a horizontal flat plane for it. It serves to distribute the load on the floor covering.

The classics of the draft coating is considered to be the device of the subfloor on the logs. This is exactly what is usually done in wooden buildings. For him, logs with a certain distance from each other are laid on the base base. On large areas, a double frame system, the so-called crate, is provided.

In it, between the lags, jumpers from a bar (crossbar) are installed. At the same time, the horizontal alignment of the surface of the logs is constantly monitored. A cranial bar is attached to the lower part of the lag. On it, the laying of a subfloor made of plywood or wood board is carried out. Subsequently, insulation material and waterproofing are laid between the lags.

Insulation and vapor barrier are laid on top of the subfloors. For the manufacture of a rough coating, chipboard or fiberboard or plywood is used.

Stages of subfloor device

And now more about how to make a rough floor with your own hands. There are two options for installing a lag: on the floor or on the base. In any case, before installing the subfloor, it is necessary to take care of the ventilation of the subfloor. For her, it is enough to drill a few round holes in the corners of the house. Subsequently, they are closed with bars. Also, before starting work, the entire underground space is treated with an antiseptic. These measures serve as a guarantee of the strength and durability of a wooden house.

Preparing the lag for construction

In fact, logs are bars from which a frame is made for the future floor. For them, boards made of wood of the second or third grade are used. Since such logs usually have an uneven surface, they must be prepared before use.

To do this, the side on which the finishing floor will be attached must be leveled with an ax. It will not work to make the surface perfectly flat, but it is necessary to level it a little. The horizontality of the finishing coating depends on this. From above, the logs are covered with antiseptics.

Before laying the logs, grooves are made in the upper crown of the walls. Planed logs should lie exactly in these grooves, but with a distance from the end to the walls of 2-3 mm. Later, a gasket is installed between them for sound insulation. In addition to the grooves in the beams, for long logs, additional support is installed in the form of brick pillars. The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the boards used for flooring. The thinner the boards, the more often the lags are located.

Under boards with a thickness of 35 mm, the distance between the lags is at least 50 cm, 35-40 mm - 80 cm, more than 40 - 100 cm

Note! After installing the lag, their ends must be fastened together. This is necessary so that they do not disperse during the laying of the roughing boards.

The surface of the base before performing work is leveled, covered with rubble and compacted. Next, measurements and markings for supports are made. As supports, either a grillage covered with roofing felt, or bars of the lower strapping can act. In the first version, the mark is placed on the roofing material, in the second, on the bars.

The horizontality of the log is checked not only relative to the ground, but also relative to each other. They must lie on the same level. The maximum allowable deviation per 1 m² is not more than 1 mm

Support pillars are installed on a foundation, the minimum dimensions of which for one element are 40 × 40 cm. Its height must be at least 20 cm, and 5 of them are above the ground. Waterproofing material is placed on the supports under the logs. It will protect the wood from mold. Logs are attached to the posts with the help of corners and self-tapping screws with dowels. The same device has a draft floor in a brick house.

timber fastening

For support under the draft floor on the logs, a bar with a section of 50 × 40 mm or 50 × 50 mm is used. Attach it to the bottom of the lag on both sides. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the future insulation, which will be laid on rough coating. It is more economical not to purchase ready-made bars, but to buy a 150 × 40 board and dissolve it into three parts. As a result, three bars of 50 × 40 mm will be obtained from one board.

Subfloor laying

Perform a draft floor of plywood or sheets of OSB, chipboard. It is advisable to use boards with tongue-and-groove ends with a thickness of about 20 mm. Applicable sheet materials 12 mm thick in two layers. To secure them securely around the entire perimeter, a crate is made of additional transverse bars to the lags. Subfloor boards are fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 90-140 mm. If the floor is made of sheet materials, the joints should fall on the central axis of the additional beams.

Note! Some masters advise not to use for the subfloor quality material, but a junk board, slab or picket fence. This is due to the fact that the rough coating reacts to changes in humidity and temperature. And such material is capable of deformation.

After completing the installation work, proceed to laying thermal insulation material and waterproofing. You should be very careful. Sub-floor boards can break under heavy weights. Therefore, it is advisable to walk along the logs or thick boards thrown over them.

Results and video with an example of work

That's all, the rest is in your hands. Unnecessary, it would seem, waste on such a device of floors will pay off over time. A layer of insulation laid on a rough coating will help save on heating. And you will agree that this is a significant argument in favor of the device of the subfloor. In addition, a high-quality rough floor is a guarantee of the durability of the finish coating.