How to hydroize a log house from the foundation? Foundation waterproofing device inside at home How to isolate a log house from concrete foundation

One of the main disadvantages of wooden building materials is a high predisposition to rotting and vulnerability before bug-stalls. Since these processes are a direct consequence of high moisture content of wood, most often such damage occurs in the lower part of the walls, for which the proper waterproofing of the lower crowns was not carried out.

It should be noted that under the moisture insulation of the lower crowns is understood not only by the physico-chemical treatment of building materials, but also a number of constructive solutions, during which a small modernization of the foundation may be needed.

This review discusses what affects the durability of the framework of a church, and which technologies exist to prevent its destruction.

Modern technology for building wooden houses involves the installation of a log on a stone foundation.

In this case, the base of the house is subject to several dangerous factors at once:

capillary moisture coming from the foundation;
wet atmosphere from the basement;
lack of sunlight, since the bottom of the wall is often in the shadow zone;
drip moisture and temperature drops from the outside of the walls.

In the latter case, the situation is exacerbated by the fact that with incorrect configuration of the base, moisture flowing from the walls during the rain is accumulated in the lower logs and in interventic seals.

A direct consequence of the factors listed above is the development of microbiological formations in the wood, affecting its structure and leading as a result of a complete loss of strength in the lower wedges of the church.

The greatest biological danger for login is mushroom structures, the first signs of which is the so-called blue, penetrating, sometimes, into the core of the log.

The nutrient medium for such mushrooms is lignin, cellulose and oxygen. But the main catalyst for their development is always increased humidity.

The second factor in the biological lesion of wood are columns, the appearance of which is almost always associated with fungal infection of wood.

Taking into account the above, the main methods of solving the problem of the lower crowns are:

making the development of microbiological formations;
reducing the bandwidth of the outer capillaries of the login, necessary to stabilize the internal moisture content of the wood at a permissible level.

As mentioned earlier, the solution of listed tasks is carried out not only at the expense of additional wood processing, but also through the use of special design solutions, the most significant of which will be discussed below.

Special design of the lower crown

If you represent the volumetric log structure, you can see that the classic lower crown, assembled "in the bowl", can not be placed without a gap on a single-level foundation. It should be remembered that the more such gaps and gaps, the higher the likelihood that they will become moisture accumulators and the cause of the rotting of the login.

In this connection, the sealing of the lower crown begins not with the processing of logs with mastic or impregnation, but with the conjugation of its geometry with the geometry of the foundation.

Two options for solutions of this task are practiced:

The first option is used to build small buildings (baths, barns, etc.).

The second method is more used, as it avoids the need for "figure casting" in the corners of the foundation and allows the use of a solid riding board from solid wood rocks.

Separately, we consider such a solution as the above-mentioned stripboard, which is the easiest way to extend the service life of a church on a good ten years, and also greatly facilitates the repair of the lower crown, if it still has a need.

The essence of this solution is that there is a wide board from the maximum stable wood (oak or larch) between the foundation and lower crown of the church.

Please note that a wide board is always manufactured from the central log sectors, the maximum stability of which is marked only by larch.

At the same time, it is important to take into account one feature of this technology: additional processing of plotting boards with some chemical compositions is not produced. The laying of the sealer is made on the same technique as for interventical gaps.

Foundation edge shape

One of the reasons for the start of rotten rotting is to accumulate moisture in the contamination zone of a church and foundation. It happens most intensively if the foundation is wider than the contact zone with a log cabin and a peculiar "shelf" is created for gripping along the wall of the water.

Such an effect can be avoided if the edge of the foundation is cut at an angle of 45 0.

Waterproofing between the foundation and logberia

The most important point that affects the durability of the lower crowns in the houses from the bar or brica is the right organization of waterproofing between the foundation and the loghouse.

The fact is that the majority of popular "stone" building materials are now have a good capillary conductivity, and if not to take measures for additional waterproofing, the lower crown will always be wet.

Cutting down the moisture in this case is implemented by laying the rubberoid sheets or through the coating of the contact zone with liquid rubber.

Ruberoid is laid according to the standard technique (on liquid bitumen), and between the waterproofing and the crown, the interventical seal must be laid.

Protective tide

In some cases, it makes sense over the lower crown to mount additional flows, minimizing moisture flow in the first interventic seams.

On the front facades of the houses, such a solution is not always acceptable for aesthetic considerations, but on the rear walls that are often shaded or in principle with economic buildings, such protection will not be at all unnecessary.

Please note that such fetches are desirable to be made from the most protected material, since it will have to work under constant humidity conditions.

Thoughtful in the foundation

Most often, on construction forums, you can meet the question "Why is the lower crown moist, if its waterproofing is fulfilled in all the rules?".

The answer, as a rule, lies in an insufficient area, purified in the foundation, which is why the humid air from the sample is saturated with lower body moisture.

It should be noted that the correct ventilation of the underground or basement is more prioritized than the processing of bricted with moisture protection means.

Moisture adversely affects the state of the foundation of the bath and can cause the destruction of the building. We propose to familiarize yourself with the methods of protection of the design from moisture, which is called waterproofing.

The need for waterproofing the foundation of the bath

The base of the bath must be protected under the following conditions:

Groundwater are located closer than 1 m from the foundation. If the groundwater level is above the foundation, it is necessary to equip the drainage channel.
If the bath is built on clay or driving soils, poorly transmitting water. They accumulate moisture, which accumulates around the foundation of the bath.
If the groundwater contains a large number of aggressive substances, for example, alkalis.

Vertical and horizontal waterproofing of the foundation of the bath

The waterproofing of the foundation for the bath begins immediately after the manufacture of the pit, from the device of the drainage layer. At the bottom of the trench or pitted, pour gravel with sand with a layer of 20 cm, all thoroughly confuse. The pillow prevents stagnation of water under the foundation, and the sand prevents the capillary lifting water.

On the pillow, build the formwork of the foundation and fill it with concrete. After the foundation is frozen, protect it from moisture vertical and horizontal waterproofing. It makes no sense to find out what option is better - both methods are used simultaneously.

Vertical waterproofing is applied outside on the vertical surface of the foundation of the bath. It must protect the foundation from the subsidized moisture and precipitation. An ideal option is considered to cover with vertical insulation of the entire wall, top to bottom. The minimum coverage area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation is from the lower level of soil wet from precipitation to the top level of splashes from the rain on the base.

Horizontal waterproofing is applied to the foundation from above and protects it from a liquid that can penetrate through the walls, the floor. It is a solid carpet under the walls of the bath. If the bath with the basement, the waterproofing is made in two places - under the slabs of the basement overlap and between the stove and the wall.

In the places of the junction of vertical and horizontal waterproofing, provide drainage. It is manufactured from bitumen mastic or geotextile. The bitumen has the best insulating properties, but when heated, it smells badly and requires certain precautions when working with a substance. If the bath is located near the reservoir, after making the foundation of the gaps between the wall and the soil, pour out oily clay, which serves as an additional protection of the design.

In some cases, the base of the bath can be hydroizing only in one way. For example, if the groundwater is lowered deeply, apply only horizontal waterproofing of the foundation of the bath.

Waterproofing the foundation of the bath with a painting way

The painting method is to apply to the surface of the foundation of water-repellent impregnation - emulsions, special solutions. Penetrating insulation originally covers the surface with a layer to 3 mm. The active chemical elements included in the protective agent are absorbed into the concrete by 6 cm and give the wall water-repellent properties. This method is more efficient to salary, but much more expensive.

Mastics and resin for bath waterproofing

The coating mixtures are manufactured on a bituminous basis or using a synthetic polymer resin, differ with elasticity.

When using mastic or resin, consider the following information:

Work on waterproofing the foundation under the bath is not recommended to perform in crude weather, mastic will not be able to absorb concrete normally.
First, treat the wall by the antiseptic and primer - primer, which increases the adhesion of the coating material with the wall. The primer must correspond to the composition of the mastic.
The surface coating of bitumen mastic is considered the most economical waterproofing option.
Mastica apply to the surface with a manual or mechanized method (spraying). After surface treatment, a seamless coating is obtained.
Mastic is well connected to the surface of the foundation.
The thickness of the coating layer is 3 mm.
Polymer mastic is advantageously different from bituminous decrease in surface-processed requirements. It is possible to cover the wall with such a composition if its humidity does not exceed 8%.
To determine the readiness of the foundation for waterproofing with mastic, cover with a plastic film 1 m 2 walls and leave one day. If the film remains dry - the foundation can be processed.
Waterproofing of mastic - unreliable and is easily damaged, for example, by stones when dried or during soil shifts. Therefore, on top of it protect it with geotextiles or insulation. A more expensive version of the protection of mastic is the use of a clamping brick wall.
For waterproofing the foundation of the bath, bitumen-latex emulsion masts of the Blam-20 brand together with the impregnation of septovtl.

Plaster for waterproofing the foundation of the bath

The plaster premises applying several layers of plastering and cement mixture to the surface with special additions with a thickness of 20-25 mm. In the section, the coating resembles a cake in which there are layers of mineral solutions with the addition of high-quality cement, asphalt mastic, PVC compositions, hydrophobic brands of concrete.

Mix in a preheated state to prevent cracks. Additives increase the quality of the cement solution: lower the porosity of the foundation, increase the viscosity of the solution, deeply penetrate the pores and clips of the foundation. The plastering option is designed for horizontal waterproofing.

Waterproofing the foundation of the bath in the inlet way

Increased method involves the use of waterproofing canvases. Traditional waterproofing material - rubberoid, modern rolled materials - Cremcite, Aquazol, Isoelast, membranes. In places of connecting the canvas overlap Vansel to avoid water penetration.

Ruberoid for bath waterproofing

Ruberoid waterproofing is considered the most popular way to protect the foundation of the bath.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Clean the surface from dirt, let dry.
Remove the protrusions, close the cement mortar, chips and other defects. The smooth surface will provide a sturdy clutch of the rubberoid with the surface.
Apply a layer of liquid bitumen or hot mastic on the surface.
Strong rubberoid leaf and put on hot mastic.
Next leaf Stay with an overlayer 10-12 cm.
Places of joints and edges of sheets. Mask additionally mastic.
Repeat the operation and cover the rubberoid sheets all surface.
To improve the quality of isolation and increasing the service life, the runneroid is recommended in two layers. Apply a liquid runner to the surface of the first layer and repeat the operation on laying the material.
For the manufacture of horizontal waterproofing rubberoid, lay in 2-3 layers.
For additional protection, cut the wall of the foundation by plywood or organomet.
Carefully, not to damage the insulation, pour the foundation with the soil.

Membranes for waterproofing the foundation of the bath

Hydrophobic membranes belong to modern types of inlet isolation. They contain several layers that are not cracking and securely protect the wall. For the foundation of the bath with concrete and brick, the membrane should have a thickness of 5 mm.

Membrane materials differ from other ways to insulate the lack of solid glue to the surface. Therefore, it can be mounted on a wet surface, it does not depend on the geometry of the foundation and its deformation.

Before waterproofing the foundation of the bath with your own hands, read the characteristics of the membrane material and select the required canvas. For example, the LogicroofT-Sl membrane contains additives that withstand water exposure with a large percentage of alkali and inorganic acids.

Install the membrane on the foundation as follows: the membrane unfolds, pressed against the wall, heated with a burner and fixed to the wall with clamps to the cooling of the canvas.

Waterproofing of various types of foundation for a bath

The foundation for the bath can be made in different ways, and methods for their waterproofing are also distinguished:

The pile foundation is difficult to protect against moisture. To piles have good water repellent properties, special additives add special additives in the preparation of concrete.
The column foundation is hydroizing the rubberoid, which is laid in several layers along the edges of the well, where the concrete is poured. Ruberoid in this case also plays the role of formwork.
The ribbon foundation is processed immediately after removing the formwork. The foundation over the soil is missing by bitumen, and the surface that is filled with the ground is covered with a rubberoid in 2-3 layers.
The screw foundation is galvanized at the stage of manufacture, so it makes no sense to completely hydroize it. After ensuring the equality of the protruding parts of the foundation above the Earth (cutting with piles), the heads are covered with bitumen mastic. A layer of rubberoid is laid between the headband of the screw basement and wooden painter. In this case, only the part of the foundation is protected, which was chopped to exhibit the upper surface of the foundation elements in one plane.

Watch the video about horizontal waterproofing foundation for a bath:

Recover responsibly to the waterproofing of the foundation and prepare the base of the bath to the onslaught of groundwater and precipitation. So you will save the strength of the construction for many years.

The logging technology of log builds contains such a responsible stage as the installation of a church for a foundation, which serves as a key to the long-term use of the advantages of the wooden prefabricated design. Wood due to its fibrous structure, in contrast to cement solutions, can perceive minor deformations without destruction. On the other hand, it is necessary to put the logs in compliance with certain rules, otherwise the displacement of the laid elements caused by changes in the humidity of the material will lead to the destruction of the building.

Vental installation techniques

In the process of designing the task, how to properly put a bath from a log cabin to a ribbon foundation, can be solved in 2 ways: a crown device with additional leveling lining or filling of the base with a level transitions on the base (step).

Before starting the installation of the wint's log on concrete foundation, it is necessary to carefully carry out preparatory operations at the top of the monolith. At the beginning, the base must be placed on 2-3 mm cement mortar, followed by the iron of the entire surface. The layer of the plaster mortar is aligned in the horizontal plane.

The procedure for aligning the base surface by mechanically shown in the photo:

The base height should ensure the protection of the wooden floor from exposure to water from the surface of the Earth. The minimum rise above the zero mark of the upper edge of the support is 0.2 m.

At the special purpose building (for example, a bath), the optimal height will be due to suitable technological communications, lazium dimensions for inspection and cleaning of underground space. With such a device, the rise will be at least 0.5 m.

Insulation

The preparatory procedures include the performance of horizontal waterproofing throughout the perimeter of a wooden crown of a wooden crown. It is starting to put the log cabin on the foundation of any height only after the flooring on concrete 2 - 3 layers of the rubberoid. Sheets are placed in the brass 0.1 m - 0.15 m with a 2 cm release - 3 cm on the external and inner edges of the tape.

Ruberoid laid under a log to ensure the hydraulic displeasure looks like this photo:

The waterproofing boards will be located on the waterproofing layer, which also need to be prepared with antiseptic solution and coat with water-repellent composition (bitumen). Opened from the resin leave the ends and the top plane of the boards, which contacts the logs.

Lining

A material for making gaskets can serve as an oak, which has durable solid wood, resistant to the development of microorganisms. A good option will be a plaque from larch or pine, impregnated with antiseptics.

The main function of the piercing tier is compensation of deformation displacements of transverse and longitudinal logs of a church. Therefore, the selected boards must be perfect shape and the maximum length. The joints of the 2 adjacent elements are made without a gap, without the possibility of entering an excess of cold air (there are produced) in the underground.

The width of the board is selected, based on the size of the crown (25 - 30 cm), the thickness is about 5 cm. Fix it to the foundation or the above logs there is no need.

Modern technologies make new solutions using polymer materials for wood isolation from concrete. So that it does not lead to unexpected consequences, it is better to use them already in established structures (during repair, transfer of the house to a new foundation). Laying a church on polystyrene foam shown in the photo:

In the construction of a cut, it is better to use materials that are comparable to behavior (with a change in temperature, humidity) and durability with wood.

Installation of crown

The logs are laid out on the baseboards by the foundation, laying out a layer of insulation from moss, hemps, pacles. The preservation of heat in the subfield is ensured by the thorough filling of the entire space with the heat insulator between the gasket and the bottom of the first crown. Protection will work not only from the cold, but also from dampness, which reduces the possibility of the development of fungi or mold.

Tested trials of the use of free material for self-laying of the first crown on the ribbon foundation are shown on this video:

The first row of logs is usually wider than the subsequent, since it opposes not only vertical loads, but also compensates for the curvaturing deformations from the soil.

In the corners, the first row must be additionally reinforced by fastening brackets.

When building a wooden bath, put on a ribbon foundation, you need to take care of a protective visor. To do this, in 2 crowns (salary) on the outside of the logs, a longitudinal groove for a board is cut out, which will send water down from the wall away from the base. Under such a board, they put the supporting bruises from the bar or board. The edge of the visor is chosen under the SCOS. Instead of a wooden board, iron sheets or plastic panels often use. The protrusion above the plane of the plum board should be at least 50 mm.

Log

To ensure the strength of the typical design, the logs are fastened between the rows of spikes from the tree. The holes are drilled with an interval of 1 m - 1.5 m. In the upper 2 rows, the step between spikes is reduced by 2 times and take 0.5 m - 0.7 m. They are located in a checker order at a distance of 10 cm - 20 cm.

The laying of ascending rows is carried out in accordance with the assembly scheme attached to it containing the sequence of marking each row.

These designations are applied by masters in the manufacture of a church. Figures and letters in different cases may differ, such signs are used standard:

numbers from 1 to 38 (installation numbering from the bottom up);
the letters C, B, Yu, Z (indicate the sides of the world).

Assign according to the parties of light the location of each wall of the future bath. Front wall Yu, rear C, right in, left Z.

Firing marking means that he has already been assembled and rolled into the transport position.

The construction assembly begins with the installation on the foundation of the crown, which is assembled in Polterev, the following logs are stacked on the knitting of the hiding with a native thorn or in Poltera.

In some cases, the bathhouse is put on the poles. Since it has a drop of levels between longitudinal and transverse logs of a crown (150 mm), the supports can be immediately made different heights. The principle of isolation of the foundation from horizontal logs should be respected anyway as shown in this photo:

With all the pre-processing between the rounded logs, the slots will remain, which over time they can increase (dry drying). Prevent possible heat losses with a row with a seal from jute fiber, pacle, felt. Works are carried out from the bottom up all over the perimeter (it is impossible to do separately on each wall).

With a loss of moisture with a tree, the gap may increase, so it is necessary to note the risk of risk, periodically inspect from and cavalous if necessary.

Memory marks

Various nuances with a wint set depends on the chosen design of the bath - type of foundation, flooring devices, the principle of draining water from indoor rooms (open flow into the underground or in the discharge pipes).

For long-term operation of any construction of this purpose, such basic rules must be observed:

The impregnation of antiseptics and waterproofing should not be made to poisonous or evaporation with unpleasant odor. The bath has increased environmental cleaning and security requirements for people's health.
The destructive effect on the foundation and the wooden crown can not have not only water from the soil, but also moisture flowing from the interior. Design waterproofing needed comprehensively.
The floor of the building is recommended to do floating, without navigating the flooring to the support lags. With the subsequent shrinkage, the log cabin can be curved and deformed the finish floors. For the same reason, you do not need to immediately hang the ceiling.
Uniform shrink shrinka promotes the wet moss purified from the ground, which tightly fills all the cavities and gaps of the crown as a heating material.
On the roof of the building smooth shrinkage of the cut will not affect. FRONTONONS must be sewn.
Full shrinkage (up to 10 cm) of the collected log is taken from 6 to 12 months. After 1 year, the door and window openings of the desired size can be cut out, otherwise the shrinkage will be uneven. The door to this point can be a cutout 0.5 m wide, 5 logs height. After that, finishing works begin.

Independent experience and skills may not be enough for high-quality grazing. In such cases, they invite professionals. They have not only experience, but also the necessary tool.

Even if the work on the installation of a church of the bathhouse on the foundation is performed by invited specialists stand on their own to participate in the acquisition of materials. High-quality wood without bitch and lesions by pests and mold will be the basis of the pleasant exploitation of Bantia for many years.

If at the stage of construction of a residential building, the waterproofing of the foundation was carried out with a violation of technology, without taking into account the level of groundwater or the amount of precipitation in the construction region, then over time, the basement will turn into the pool, seatingman of fungi and mold. To correct the situation, you will need to perform the waterproofing of the foundation from the inside of the house. To do this, various technologies and materials can be used. The choice of the method of waterproofing should be performed depending on the degree of destructive impact of moisture on the floor and the walls of the basement or cellar. Even if the house is erected from a cut or profiled timber, its foundation needs high-quality waterproofing.

Features of internal waterproofing

The most effective is the outer waterproofing of the foundation. But if the problems manifested themselves during the operation of the finished home, then the only way out of the situation will be the internal waterproofing of the basement from groundwater. At the same time, the houses from the cut are not an exception, because the foundation also may be subject to the destructive effects of moisture below the base level.

For internal protection of the founding of a private house, special compositions can be used:

paints with insulating properties;
bitumen mixtures;
rolled waterproofing materials, for example, rubberoid;
sheet metal;
compositions based on bentonite clay;
polymeric waterproofing mixtures.

Depending on the location of the base, the house can be performed internal horizontal or vertical insulation. The easiest way to waterproofing the foundation from the inside, which can be performed with your own hands is the processing of walls, gender and overlaps between the basement and residential floor of insulating paints. For efficiency, it is better to use at least three layers of paint.

Types of waterproofing basement

All methods of insulation of the walls of the basement from moisture can be divided into several types:

Anti-profile isolation. Such protection is needed by destroying the impact of groundwater with pressure above 10 m on the base of houses from the bar, cut, brick or concrete. This uses membrane and rolled seals, liquid rubber. The essence of the method: the insulating material is pressed with the pressure of groundwater to the outer surface of the soda. Previously, this method could only be used for outdoor isolation, but now there are materials used inside.
Non-free insulation. This type of protection is needed to prevent the destructive impact on the walls of the building of melting and precipitation. Such isolation is needed even for the base of the house from a church or bar. Polymer-bitumen mastics are used for operation.
Anti-Capillary Protection (penetrating insulation). This type of insulation will help protect the design of the base from the destructive impact of moisture penetrating through the enclosing structures of the house. For this wall, the base, the floor and the overlap between the basement and the first floor are treated with slurry solutions, bitumen mastic and special impregnation mixtures.
Injection isolation. This method of insulation of the walls of the basement of a private house is performed using packers (needles) and special equipment, which under high pressure supplies components in the depth of the foundation.

So that the internal waterproofing is as efficient as possible, when choosing materials for work, it is worth considering their characteristics. For example, to reliably protect the reinforcement, you need to choose compounds with anti-corrosion qualities, and sealing mixtures are suitable for seams and jacks between individual elements of the design. For reliable protection against moisture penetration, through the designs, you will need to use solutions with anti-filtration properties.

If you are going to make insulation of the walls of the foundation from the inside with your own hands, then consider the solutions based on cement with excellent anti-Filtration qualities. After hardening, they expand, due to which the slots are tightly and protected from the penetration of moisture. Bituminous mastic are used for walls where you need to get elastic and solid protection. Therefore, they are more suitable for houses from stone, not from a bar or cut, because the stone structures foundation are more prone to deformations.

Tip: To protect overlaps over the basement, it is better to use polymer films.

If all the work you are going to hand, then you should pay special attention to:

docking spaces of two surfaces, for example, on the seam between the wall and the floor, the ceiling and walls, the corners;
seams that were formed in the process of concreting or after removing the formwork, as well as on the seams between the structural elements of the walls and overlaps;
places where engineering communications are laid;
cracks formed during the shrinkage of the old house.

Vertical internal waterproofing

Waterproofing of the walls of the foundation of stone or brick is called vertical. Moreover, such an insulation is needed for structures from a profiled timber or a log house, because the base of the wooden house is also made of artificial or natural stone materials. Typically, the internal vertical insulation is made at the level of the base of the house.

For the inside of the walls of the basement below the base, the traditional plaster waterproofing using modified solutions is suitable. Such a method is the easiest and inexpensive, so it can be done by hand. Waterproofing can be made using the following materials:

primer;
polymer or bitumen mastics;
brush and spatula sufficient sizes.

Work on waterproofing walls of the foundation below the base is carried out in this order:

First you need to carefully clean the walls from dust and dirt.
Printing of all surfaces is performed.
After drying, the solution remains waterproofing.
When the first layer is driving, you can perform an aligning layer.

Tip: For insulation of concrete and monolithic walls of the basement, the universal composition of penetron (penetrating insulation) is suitable. No less effective tool for any surfaces is liquid rubber, which can be applied to the wet or dry walls of the basement outside and inside.

Horizontal inner waterproofing

Waterproofing foundation requires basement floor treatment. Usually such insulation is called horizontal. The most inexpensive and affordable method of insulation is performed using rolled and sheet materials. For laying horizontal insulation from bitumen rolled materials, glueing to special adhesive compositions is used, and the use of polymer materials requires the use of special primer solutions.

To perform horizontal waterproofing of the floor of the basement you will need: Rolled insulating materials, primer, adhesive compositions, a knife for cutting material, trowel, brush. Works lead in that order:

If there is water in the basement, you need to pump it out, and dry the room.

Important: To dry the basement well, you need to ensure the ventilation of the room.

Then you need to clean the seams and cracks in a concrete floor covering to a depth of 5 cm.
We process the primer of the floor and crack surface.
Close up all cracks with cement mortar.
Now you can make waterproofing the floor of the basement. For this, rubberoid or other rolled material are placed on a preheated bitumen. It is better to lay two layers of isolation.
Then you can fill the screed.

For the floor isolation of the basement of the old house, it is better to perform a two-polymer bulk insulation from a mixture of cement, sand and binding substances. This method is also suitable for houses from a bar or a log house, where high-quality wasolation of the basement from moisture is very important.

Materials and technologies

For the insulation of the base, the floor and the foundation of the house, the coating waterproofing from polymer and bitumen mastics, as well as the floor insulation, is most often used. Such materials are suitable for basements of houses from profiled timber, stone, brick, concrete.

The disadvantages of the coating and the applied isolation are bloody and peeling with a slight water pressure due to hydrostatic pressure.

More efficient modern methods for insulation base - penetrating waterproofing, mineral-based coem compositions, membrane materials, insulation of liquid rubber and glass. Such isolation is suitable even for the old foundation of the house from the bar.

Roll materials for waterproofing

Isolation of the base with rolled materials on a bitumen or polymer basis is called inlet. Used runner, tol, glasskerberoid, folgosolone, hydroisol, sampling. They can be glued to cold or hot bitumen mastic and welcome. The method is suitable for houses from a bar and cut.

Waterproofing is glued onto peeled and dried base walls on the inside. To do this, the bitumen mastic is first applied. It is necessary to make an increment lanes 15 cm. On the joints between the walls and the floor, the material is also wrapped at 15 cm.

Benefits:

low price;
the possibility of independent work.

Disadvantages:

at low temperatures, such insulation becomes fragile and easily breaks;
rolled materials are affected by damage to fungi and mold;
the effectiveness of isolation depends on the quality of the work performed.

Membrane isolation

Previously, this type of rolled waterproofing was intended to perform the outer pressure insulation of the foundation. But now the membrane material for internal use appeared. It is ideal for insulation basement in houses from a profiled timber and other wood materials. The cone-shaped spikes on the surface of the material perfectly remove the accumulated moisture.

Before using the membrane protection of the wall, the basement should be cleaned from the garbage, close the cracks and the slots between the elements of the structure, primed the surface. The membrane is attached to the dowels on the walls. Open ends of the membrane must be fixed with a horizontal insulating layer.

long service life;
the possibility of using on wet walls;
suitable for self-applying.

Cons - can not be used without horizontal waterproofing foundation.

Penetrating isolation

This insulation inside the house penetrates through microcapillary and cracks of the fencing structures of the basement and crystallizes it. The process occurs due to the use of penetrates (alkali metal carbonates, silica, aluminum oxide). As a result, the walls of the foundation become impenetrable. Isolation is suitable for houses from a bar, stone, brick and concrete with block and concrete monolithic bases.

Advantages:

high efficiency due to the penetration of the injection of the material;
the frost resistance of the basement concrete structures increases;
suitable for applying with your own hands;
careful blockage of even small cracks;
such isolation is impossible to damage;
durability.

Method of application:

For the opening of the concrete, the surface must be carefully deguted and clean. To do this, you can use a metal brush or a water jet setting.
A solution is prepared.
The composition is applied to the wet inner surface of the foundation. At the same time, the joints between the walls and the floor are processed, the corners, and then the solution is applied to the walls.
Two hours later, you can apply a second layer of composition.
For uniform solidification of the surface solution, it is necessary to moisten a few more days after the waterproofing.

It is important to know: to penetrate the solution to a depth to half a meter in the design of the foundation you will need to apply several layers.

In more detail about the use of penetrating waterproofing can be viewed in the proposed video:

Injection isolation

For the device of such waterproofing, the liquid gel composition must be entered into special holes in the foundation. For these purposes, micro-cement, polyurethane, epoxy or acrylic gel are used.

Laying of the first crown of timber and tricks

Before the start of construction, everyone's question arises: how to put the first crown from the bar? The first crown of the house from the bar is needed as thoroughly as possible, with mathematical calculations, in order for the walls of the future at home the perfectly exactly at an angle of 90 degrees. Make it is not too difficult - the factory is not hurry and very well prepare for the fulfillment of this work.

Before the start of laying the first crown, it is necessary to make a minimum of two in the waterproofing layer, then the lining board and then another layer of the same waterproofing.

Waterproofing between the log cabin and the foundation

Before laying a bar, it is necessary to ensure the maximum waterproofing of the foundation. To do this, put the runneroid twice, and then perform one-time styling of glassware. All stacked layers should exceed the width of your foundation for 25 centimeters throughout its perimeter.

The stacked bars among themselves must contact the most tight as possible, in no case can even leave the slightest emptiness in the wall, especially its lower part. After all, it is precisely for this part in the future the floor is hung and all serious loads go.

It is necessary to mount the bars with each other to be metallic to the depth of 3 centimeters, but finish them with a wooden Cyan. If the timber has a small bend, lay it down the smooth face. There are cases when the connection of the lower bars requires additional fastening with a bracket or nails (it is necessary to put them in 2 crowns).

Before laying waterproofing on the foundation from the rubberoid. Check that its upper plane is strictly horizontal. Check horizontality with your own hands you need a hydraulic level, since a simple level often gives a greater error. The drop should not be more than 1 cm. On the entire foundation plane. If the drop in the level is larger, align the plane with a solution or an additional layer of waterproofing.

We put the first crown of the Siruba -Sham assembly

Before laying a bar for the foundation, we need to take care of the durability of our design. To do this, lay the rails previously treated with an antiseptic, with a thickness of about 10-15 mm. The distance between them is 25-30 cm.

Well, on top of the rules exhibited, we put our first layer of BRUSEV.

Reiki is necessary to prevent the crown of the crown with the foundation. This trick will significantly increase the lifespan of the log house, due to additional protection against rotting, and the gap between the bar and the foundation fill in the mounting foam.

Next, check the level on the surface of the surface - an uneven wall is obtained from the uneven 1st crown.
After eliminating inaccuracies, fill the gap by mounting foam. It is necessary to prepare in advance when delivering materials to the site. Choose the best bars that have a minimum amount of bitch, as smooth as possible, without blue. The bar must be chosen by the section of the annual rings - select one, the density of the rings in which as much as possible (at the same time the timber must be the middle part of this tree). At the end of the cut, you must see the circumference, which diverge from the center. Thebed wood is necessary, it is necessary several times all over to wrap with bitumen mastic (liquid), in combination with working out so that the composition is as deeply absorbed into the future bar. I don't need to handle ends, they should be clean, because the excess moisture will be removed from the tree. From how you handle wood. Directly depends on the service life of the lower crown and the time that the need for its replacement will arise.
In some cases, to mount the first crown to the foundation is not necessary - the size of the bar will be quite heavy and it will be very good to stand on the foundation without anchors. Corner joints are made without the use of locks, the bar is joined by the ends. Such docks are made in order to further be the possibility of replacing any timber, going around without disassembling the corners. In the corners of the timber during the adjunction of various partitions is connected by metal plates or brackets.

Although much builders tightly fix the timber among themselves and to the foundation.

All angles should be strictly 90 degrees, then the geometry of the house is considered perfect. It is necessary to check that the length of opposite sides is equal to, and the diagonals between the angles (opposite) coincide - if everything is correct, it means that the angles are derived accurately. When working on the laying of the lower rows, in no case should not be hurried, because it depends on what walls will turn out for further construction.

How to put the first crown of the house from the bar?

When erecting a wooden house, the quality of laying of the first row of BRUSEV is of great importance. It is from this that it depends on how even the walls will be, because it is quite difficult to correct errors in the construction process.

From how qualitatively, the first crown of the house from the bar will correctly be laid out, the strength and reliability of the entire design as a whole depends.

To properly put the timber on the foundation, it is not necessary to have special knowledge or experience, but try, of course, it will have to be very good.

Choice and preparation of building material

The bar for the construction of the house should be qualitative.

For a home bar, you need to choose the most high-quality wood, with high density, level surface and not crude. It is desirable that the bars for the first row are cut out of the core of the tree, it is possible to determine this by annual rings on the cuts, they must be very tight and diverge from the center. Breeds with black spots or a cut of a bluette shade as a base cannot be used.

Select the most even bars with the smallest number of bitch and impregnate them with liquid bitumen mastic, in which the exhaust oil is added. The protective composition is applied 3 or 4 times so that the tree is soaked as deep as possible, and the sections are necessarily abandoned - moisture will be published through them. Impregnated bars lay out on a flat open surface and give a completely dry. After that, the material is ready for laying.

Fundament waterproofing device

Fastening the lower strapping and waterproofing under the first crown.

Waterproofing of the house from the bar should be performed after checking the foundation by the water level. When drops are in a height of more than 1 cm, the foundation surface must be aligned with a concrete solution. Next prepare the bituminous mixture and cover the base with a dense layer, diligently filling the smallest cracks and gaps. After that, the rubberoid is heated by gasoline or gas burner, cut it into stripes and laid directly on mastic. The width of the bands should be larger than 20 cm wide. On the joints, the rubberoid is put on a 10-15 cm on the joints, separately heated and again deceived by mastic. When the first layer of waterproofing is laid, they make another one by the same scheme.

On top of the runneroid, it is recommended to lay a layer of glasses, all layers must be over the edges of the foundation at the same distance throughout the perimeter. Instead of glasses, it is possible to use the laying board, but then it should be closed on top of the runneroid and suture all the seams by mastic. The better the waterproofing is performed, the longer the construction will be.

Laying of the first row of a church

The design of the nodes of the first crown of the house from the bar.

To properly lay the first crown of the house, the following materials should be prepared:
- wooden rails with a thickness of 15 mm;
- bar;
- metal brackets;
- mounting foam.
Reiki must be impregnated with any antiseptic means that protects wood from damage.

First, the rains are laid on the waterproofing. They should be located across the foundation ribbon every 30 cm, while the length of the rivers must match the width of the foundation, as shown in the figure. Now the prepared bars begin to lay the prepared bars, which formed the first crown.

It is very important that the angles correspond to 90 °, otherwise the house will be selected. Also, after the formation of a number, its location is tested relative to the horizontal.

If individual sections protrude from the overall plane, they are aligned with the plane. The angular elements are mixed with ends and fixed with metal brackets.

When the crown of the house was laid, the gaps formed between waterproofing and the bar are filled with mounting foam. It will not only strengthen the design, but also protects it from the penetration of rodents, insects, water and snow. Barn the timber to the foundation is not necessary, since the construction will be sufficiently difficult and will not be able to move. On this, the laying of the first row is considered completed. Then follows the mounting stage of vertical racks inside the perimeter and cutting the holes in a bar for lag, after which you can start the further construction of the walls of the house from the bar.

If the material is properly chosen for construction and the installation technology is accurately complied with, the house will serve not one decade, without requiring major repairs. The most important thing is to perform every process as high quality as possible, then even the absence of experience will not prevent a strong, reliable and neat house with your own hands.

How to put the first crown of timber on the foundation?

The very first responsible and not a quick stage of masonry walls from the bar is the installation of the first crown. Consider how to put the first crown of a bar on the foundation. Here you need to prepare very well - to process the bar for the first glad by an antiseptic (impregnation for the tree) and it is better to do it on all sides so that the material is protected from rotting. It is usually enough antiseptic procedure to repeat 2 times.

It would seem that difficult in the construction of walls from the bar, because it is almost like a designer, but the most difficult moments, it turns out to be created in the creation of a smooth horizontal surface, which is often not achieved when filling the foundation. Therefore, if the foundation is not perfect (not in terms of level), align the horizontal position in one of the following ways:
- 1) align the foundation of the layer of solution (concrete);
- 2) We sublip the bars under the first crown, and later fill the cloth by mounting foam or podillion foundation;
- 3) complaim the brown of the first crown, so that it is smooth horizontally on the upper plane;
- 4) We make a 10 mm lining board, compassing and configuring it to the perfect horizontal, and the first crown will be laid on it;
- 5) We make brickwork or masonry from constructive foam concrete (not lower than D-500), at the expense of which we will, adjusting the thickness of the seams, find precious centimeters and create a flat line.
Before laying a bar, it is necessary to make waterproofing. For example, put on the foundation 2-3 layer of rubberoid (or hydroisol), which cut off moisture from the foundation, destructive for the bar. The lower row can be laid out by boards with a thickness of 50-100 mm and is bonded between themselves in the "Schip-groove".

However, you can do without a lining board, immediately laying the first crown for waterproofing.

The lower vents of the bar need to be tightened, and to compound them to prepare spikes with grooves (you can use the Swallow Tail connection), trying not to imagine the position of the recess and the depression.

The first crown of the house from the bar is bonding along the corners with the help of metal brackets, scoring them "under the face"). In general, the answer to the question of how to put the first crown of the bar for the foundation. This initial stage of laying timber takes a lot of time, but after him the rest will go much faster.

How to put the first crowns on the foundation

Laying the first crown from the leaf of the set and tricks before the start of construction of the house, everyone's question arises: how to put the first crown from the bar? Stop the first crown of the house from the bar need ...

Laying Bruus

Tools and materials
Bruus laying technology
Features of the insulating process
Installing bars on the foundation
Finishing stages of mounting

Each home master engaged in the construction of his own home, at a certain stage there is a question of how to lay a bar for the foundation.

For the construction of a house from a bar often use a ribbon foundation with a height of 0.5 m above the ground.

Tools and materials

For work it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

waterproofing material;
building level;
fasteners, anchor, brazen, nuts with wide washers;
wooden mystery;
antiseptics;
electrolake.

Bruus laying technology

The main moment of the construction of a wooden house is the choice of timber.

Brous laying scheme.

The best of them are considered even, with the smallest number of bitch and without a shade of blue. When choosing a bar, you should pay attention to annual rings. Preference is given to bars, the density of the rings of which is the highest.

Laying timber cannot be spent at a high level without a qualitatively performed foundation. The ideal option is a concrete monolithic stove, but the high cost of material in most cases makes it impossible to use it. An exception is a movable soil, where the foundation of a different type cannot be erected.

Quite often, a ribbon foundation is used for the construction of a wooden house from a bar, the height of which should be at least 0.5 m above the level of land. The elevated part is made of bricks.

Before laying the bars of the first crown, they first determine the direction of its side that will be indoors. That side of the bar on which there is a visible defect will be directed upwards. The side of the bar having bulges will be the side. In the process of laying a bar, it is necessary to take into account his shrinkage, in accordance with which the final lining of the house is carried out after 1-2 years.
The Lower Cross Bar is deceived by working out, its remaining part is treated with special antiseptic compositions.
To put the first crown of a wooden house, everyone spends quite thoroughly, making all the necessary mathematical calculations. This is necessary so that the walls of the new house are strictly at an angle of 90 °. The most important thing is not to hurry at this stage and do everything with maximum accuracy.

Features of the insulating process

Scheme of waterproofing foundation from above under the ram.

Before switching to the installation of the first crown, an insulation must be carried out, for which two layers of waterproofing material should be put together, between which the lining board is placed.

Insulation includes two layers of a rolled backrueroid and glazing. All materials are stacked in such a way that their edges are 25 cm on the foundation. At the corners, the insulation is putting a mustache.

Before the insulation is laid between the crown and the base, it is necessary to check the surface of the foundation, which should be perfectly smooth, without drops. To do this, use a hydraulic level, which is rather normal. The differences of no more than 1 cm relative to the entire foundation plane are allowed. Strong drops are removed by plating the rubberoid or leveling with cement mortar.

An equally important point is to close the gap between the foundation and the lower crown of the bar.

The most common method is the addition of a cement mortar under a layer of waterproofing material. Working may be complicated due to the complexity of access to the right place. In some cases, the slot is simply close in wooden trimming of a certain thickness. Wooden wedges or boards are attached between rubberoid and the lower bar, which are tightly driven until the gap is completely eliminated. Both in length and in the width of such inserts may be an unlimited quantity.

Brous laying scheme for foundation.

The most common method of embelling the slots has recently been their foaming of construction foam, which is sold in the canopy. It will be better to carry out similar works in crude weather when the material is very well seized.

After a day after the faving, the excess material is cut into a sharp knife. In the future, the plot between the lower crown and the basement is closed with metal molds or decorative plank. This is necessary in order to protect the foam from the effects of direct sunlight, under the action of which it collapses literally in one season. In addition, a reliable barrier is created for the accumulation of moisture, which will lead to the rotting of wood.

Installing bars on the foundation

After the foundation is insulated, begin to install the lower strapping.

The bars, installed on the foundation, should pretrately fit into each other without the formation between them the minimum space. In particular, it concerns the lower part of the church, where the floor will be created and where significant loads will be provided.

Brucks are bonded with metal brazers, which are achieved with the help of a wooden cyan. In some cases, if necessary, the bars additionally fasten with brackets or nails.

Scheme of fastening bars among themselves.

Docking the bars of the lower crown with each other happens by sampling on the corners of any of the existing ways:

"In Polterev" - the option of laying the bars, in which the upper half of the array is removed in the angular connections on one bar, and on the other - the lower half;
"In the paw" is the most common way to connect BRUSEV, which is the opposite and does not include the end part of the log, protruding beyond the level of the wall.

Through nuts and wide, the washers are carried out fastening the bar to the surface of the foundation. A wide washer will allow you to expand the area of \u200b\u200bthe nut with the surface of the tree. Only you need only a hex nut, and square or round nuts for such purposes are not suitable. If for the attachment of the bars to use narrow nuts or not to use them at all, then during the execution of installation work it will be quite clear that the nut is completely drowned into the surface of the bar and the connection of the elements of the house of the house will be unreliable and short-lived.

Finishing stages of mounting

When the bars of the lower crown in the corners were fastened with napes or nails, the anchor is usually not installed. In the future, the first anchors will be installed on the inner contour of the fundamental tape.

On one segment of a wooden bar must be at least 2 anchor bolts, but provided that the house has short walls.
With the help of the construction level, the diagonals and the angles of the lower crown are carefully checked. All existing irregularities eliminate the electrolack.
After bars are attached to the foundation, start installing vertical racks of the frame at home.

The question of fastening the bar to the foundation is controversial and has both supporters and opponents. Despite this, experts claim that the fastening is mandatory, since the foundation is characteristic of being in motion, they often express that he "walks." The rigid fixation of the lower strapping completely assumes any navigation of the base.

In the very critical situation, the lower crown of Bruusyev is able to shift a little to the side or snatch the anchor. That is why the mounting of the bar to the surface of the foundation gives a guarantee of the sustainability of the entire structure.

In some cases, the fastening of the lower crown is not carried out to the foundation, since this is considered superfluous. Under the weight of its own weight, the house from BRUSEV will stand quite firmly without anchors. Corner joints are created without the use of special locks, and the bar itself is docked through the ends. Such a method allows you to replace any part of the bar, without disassembled the corners.

How to put a timber on the foundation: Installation steps (video)

Each home master engaged in the construction of his own home, at a certain stage there is a question of how to lay a bar for the foundation. In addition, interested and insulation of the foundation.

How to put a bar for the foundation? Collapse all subtleties

Right immediately, on a naked, albeit fully fondamation, the crust is categorically impossible. Moreover, and sawn timber, barely brought from the warehouse, is not suitable for starting work.

The first thing to be done is to exhibit the base of water. The house on Earth is influenced not only precipitation, but also groundwater. Seasonal raising them is not the only danger at all. Even the finding of groundwater in a state of temporary rest does not stop their insidious effect on the foundation, since there is a phenomenon as capillary penetration. Therefore, the foundation should be thoroughly protected from moisture. To this end, the level is checked by its evenness and the high-altitude differences are eliminated - the filling of the depression concrete or the lining of the rubberoid segments.

Those who bought a profiled timber will connect it in a way that suggests a profile. If you are equipped with a budget option, you are coming carpentry work on the sample of wood on the ends for connecting the bar in the corners. Options may be several.

"Holder". The simplest connection at the preparation stage of the bar. The upper half of the sawn timber on one element and the bottom - on the second. However, such a connection is considered not the most successful, because when errors in the sample or assembly, the house carries
significant heat loss.

The process is as follows.

On top of the rails, strictly on the placed perimeter, the first row of timber is placed. Its geometry is carefully checked by level.

After laying out the first row of the bar, the gap is filled with lining slats. The methods of eliminating the slit several: it is clogged with wooden wedges, the cement mortar is embarrassed. But modern masters often blossom to the mosquito foam. Before it is drying out the work further is not underway. After the excessive excess foam simply cut off.

How to put a bar for the foundation? Collapse all subtleties - Easy repair of apartments and houses

Instructions for how to lay a timber on the foundation, in the main features is easy, but requires a builder of emergency accuracy and accuracy. Invalid calculation and negligence in the work will lead to