The simplest furnace: from the primary means, brick without a solution and on the solution. How to fold a mini brick oven with your own hands - step-by-step guide how to make a small brick stove on the street

Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, very many owners do not imagine a private house Without a furnace - and it is absolutely correct. Even if it is planned to create an autonomous heating system, the furnace will also be alike. For example, in order to save in the spring or autumn period, when the full heating is no longer needed, but also you do not want to breed in the house. Protoping the stove once a day or two days, in the premises you can maintain the optimal balance of adhesion and heat.

Fold the furnace with your own hands step-by-step instruction which has intricate configurations - for the beginner will be quite difficult. Therefore, if there is no experience in the bary, it is better to choose affordable option Spitches in which it will simply figure out.

When choosing a model, it is necessary to take into account not only the simplicity of the scheme, but also heat transfer and the functionality of the furnace, since there are furnaces in which not all functions are provided. The heat transfer is chosen depending on the area, which should heat the heating structure.

There are quite a lot of stove models, as experienced cooks, working on one of them, bring their own adjustments to its design, and thanks to this new and new options appear. heating device. And to stay on one of the types of furnaces, you need to know which they are on functionality.

Prices for chammatory brick for masonry furnaces

chamotted brick

Types of brick stoves

There are t.the rex basic species are heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional embedded elements.

The heating and cooking furnace can have not only a cooking plate, but the oven and a water heating tank, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure can heat one or two rooms of a specific area.

Such furnaces are often embedded in the wall, turning the hob and the furnace in the direction of the kitchen, and the rear wall - in residential room. Thus, the furnace performs till function - it works as a partition, it prepares food on it, and it gives dry heat into the bedroom or living room.

Operate only for heating, and most often have a compact size. This furnace is installed in order to maintain the balance of VL Agi and heat in the house in the autumn or spring when it is too early to turn on heating system Or have not yet included central.

This furnace is well installed, for example, in the country, in the event that there is a device where you can cook food. If the power supply in the country village is often disconnected, it is better to choose a building with a hob.

The cooking version of the furnace can serve for heating if you need to heat small square. The device is perfect for dacha house Or for a small structure for permanent residence.

Having such a furnace and firewood, you can not worry about the fact that the house will be cold and raw, and the family will remain without dinner or hot tea when the electricity or gas is disconnected.

It should be noted that any of the types of furnace can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the furnace structure depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house or room, as well as the place that is assigned to build.

Choosing a place to install the furnace

Choosing a place to build a furnace, you need to provide for nuances that are important not only to create comfortable operating conditions, but also for reasons of fire safety. Especially important to think about location furnaces in the already built house, since the chimney pipe should not stumble upon it on the beams of the attic overlap or on stropile legs Roofs.

The stove is installed at the inner bearing wall, in the middle of the room or embed it into the wall located inside the house.

It is not recommended to build a furnace about external WallSince it will quickly get out, and the efficiency of its use will significantly decline.
In the middle big room The furnace is set if you need to divide the room into two zones. Especially - with beautiful decorative finish She will decorate the house and can be for the interior one of the elements that will emphasize a certain style.
Embedding the oven to the partition between the rooms, it is necessary to provide for its insulation from the combustible wall materials using heat-resistant sheets of asbestos or special drywall.
The place allocated for the furnace should be greater than its base at 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction, since the foundation perimeter always slightly exceeds the size of the furnace.
In order to easily determine the sizes, you need to choose the model to which the order scheme is attached.

When the model is selected and the installation location defines, you can proceed to the acquisition of materials and prepare all the necessary tools. The number and assortment of materials for each of the models is selected individually, but the tools used during the masonry are always the same.

Working Tools

For the construction process, the following devices and tools will be needed:

A) Kirk is used to dry and split the brick.

B) The oven hammer has the same functions as Kirk, but, in addition, it is convenient for them to remove the dried mortar.

C) The rule is used to align concrete on the surface of the foundation. It is often made independently of the perfectly smooth outdoor board.

D) Wooden blade is used for rubbing and mixing clay solution.

E) the level is the necessary tool, as it will help to withstand the evenness of the rows, both in the horizontal and vertical direction.

E) Bread from the urine is used to remove sand and hardened mortar from the inner surfaces.

G) Pliers are used to bite and fold steel wire when installing and fixing cast-iron elements of the structure.

H) The chimney lead is used for marking when finishing the furnace with tiles.

And) Stukolz - cut pipe used for fitting tiles.

K) Chettail rod for marking.

L) The rashpil is used to wipe the lumps and removing the influx on the finished masonry.

M) the building angle is necessary to remove the internal and external corners 90 degrees.

H) The plumb is used to check the vertical walls.

O) Rubber hammer is used to run into a row of bricks.

P) Chisel is needed to parse old masonry and brick splitting.

P) Trusks or Kelma are used to remove the surplus of the solution and impose it into the rows of bricks during masonry.

C) the extending will be needed if the oven is not facing finishing material, and the seams between the rows will neatly decorate.

In addition, two tanks for mortar and water will be needed, as well as sieve for sand, if the solution is made independently.

The masonry of the upper rows will be easier if there is a "goats"

For the convenience of working, it is necessary to have a frame that is different called "goats". It is convenient to stand on them, conducting a masonry at an altitude, especially since the work platform size provides for a place to install a container with a solution.

Forehead Foundation

The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with general basis Under the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since during deformation or shrinkage, one of them can damage the other.
If the furnace will be built in the foundation already built on the tape or biscuit, which has a wooden floor, then the coating will have to open and build the basis for the furnace from the soil.
If the compact model of the furnace is selected, and under the house it works slab foundation, the heating structure can be erected directly on it by making a waterproofing gasket.

If the foundation sune-Taki will have to be equipped with "from scratch", it must be remembered that it should have the same shape as the founding of the furnace, but to act beyond its limits by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each of the parties.

On wooden the floor is placed The outline of the foundation is cut on the markup part of the board coating.
Next, in the soil underground drifts desired size, depth of 450 ÷ 500 mm.
The ground at the bottom of the pit is good tamples, and the sandy befelling is made, which is wetted with water and also tamper to thickness in 80 ÷ 100 mm.

Potted under the chimney foundation with a sandy-gravel "pillow"

After that, around the perimeter of the pit it is possible to lay a runneroid, which will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork, if it is temporarily strengthened by boards or bricks. After froze concrete solution Formwork with foundation take off.

Instead of runneroid, you can use formwork from boards, closed from the inside with a polyethylene web.

Immediately it should be noted that it is better if the concrete base under the furnace will rise above the floor at 70 ÷ 100 mm. In this way, you can save a brick and simplify the docking of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation.

From above sand is covered with a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness and is also well compacted.
The next step on the bottom of the recovery is a reinforcement grid made of metal wire or finished grid. The elements of the lattice between themselves are connected by a twist from the wire.

Foundation reinforcement - option

The first layer of solution is poured into the prepared kittle. It may consist of rubble, sand and cement - 1: 2: 1 or gravel and cement 3: 1. This layer should occupy approximately ⅓ the filled space.
After filling the first layer, immediately knead and poured the second, consisting of sand and cement in proportions 3: 1.

The second layer is poured into such a height so that 50 mm remains to the top, which will be required for the upper aligning foundation SH OA.

If necessary, for the upper layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded, and then on top of the flooded solution to lay reinforcement gridhaving cells at 70 ÷ 80 mm.

Then the last is filled upper layer The solution is aligned with the rule.

The foundation is left to ripen concrete by 27 ÷ 30 days. It is advisable to make it daily with water and close with a plastic film, it will help make concrete more monolithic and durable.

On the finished foundation, after removal of the formwork, two or three layers of rubberoid, which will protect the brick masonry of the furnace from the capillary moisture coming from the soil or from the underground.

After that, you can move to the main work - masonry furnace.

Several recommendations for masonry work

Before starting the brick laying on the solution, the entire structure rises from the brick dry, but each of the rows should be laid out strictly in accordance with the order scheme.

Pre-masonry Drying experienced cooks advise to spend all the masters who are first taken for the construction of the furnace. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and not commit rough mistakes When fitting bricks in each of the rows.

To carry out the masonry you need to stock yourself wooden railswhich will determine the seam thickness between bricks. Usually their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same rail will be used in the main masonry, carried out with the solution. Such a "calibration" of the seam thickness is especially necessary if the masonry is done "under the extection", and must be flawless.

This process of PR is not inhaling, thoughtfully, as it is very important to understand how smoke will be discharged from the furnace, and how it will fall into the chimney pipe.

Having lifted a dry design before starting the pipe laying, she carefully disassemble. If you simultaneously fit bricks in size, then each row can be folded into a separate stack, putting a row number on the bricks with a marker and a place in it.
Performing basic masonry, each of the series also first lays out dry, and then, after thorough fitting of all parts, mounted on the solution.
When the main laying is made, two dimensional rails are stacked on the edges of the previous row to withstand the exact seam thickness. The solution is then applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. The brick is placed on top of the solution, pressed, and, if necessary, begged with a rubber hammer until the brick is stored in a measuring rack. The extra protested solution is selected by a trowel.

Rakes are pulled out of the masonry after mounting the third ÷ fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
Capturing the rails, the seams are neatly filled with a solution and immediately "expand".
Conducting the laying on the solution, each of the series is verified using a construction level to comply with horizontal and vertical planes.

Compliance with these nuances will help simplify the process of the construction of any furnace, avoid "fatal" errors that can lead to the need to rewar throughout the work.

Heating and cooking furnace with drying chamber of the structure of Yu. Proskurin

As mentioned above, there is a large number of different models stoves. This publication will consider one of the compact and functional options that can be set to small houseSince it does not take a lot of space, but it is capable of driving a room at 16 ÷ 17 m².

The design of the furnace Y. Proskurin is a two-speed heating and cooking option equipped with a single-mounted stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, healing herbs, mushrooms, and the like.

If desired, a box can be installed in a niche of the drying chamber oven Suitable size.

The furnace has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney pipe) 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. Its heat transfer is 1700 kcal / h. The design provides for two modes of operation - summer and winter, which is very important for fuel economy, and to be able to heat the stove and cook food, do not touch all Designs in the summer.

List of essential materials

In order to build such a heating structure, the following materials will be needed:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Sizes of elements (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe masonry)	281 ÷ 285.	-
Chamotte brick refractory brand sh-8	82 ÷ 85.	-
Opening door	1	210 × 250.
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140 × 140.
Door for confused	1	140 × 250.
Summer stroke valve for chimney	1	130 × 130.
Flashing	1	130 × 130.
Latch for hob	1	130 × 130.
Colonnik	1	200 × 300.
Single-mounted cooking panel	1	410 × 340.
Steel band	1	40 × 260 × 5
	1	40 × 350 × 5
	1	40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner	1	40 × 40 × 635
	3	40 × 40 × 510
	4	40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron	1	380 × 310.
Foremost sheet metal	1	500 × 700.

In addition, it will take clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, mergel, and a bladder box, if it is decided, instead of a drying niche to install the oven.

Scheme-delegation of the construction of the furnace design of Y. Proskurin

Illustration	BRIEF DESCRIPTION Valued operation
	The first row is laid out with a solid plane with compliance with bricks. It is very important to put this series perfectly in all respects, since the quality of the masonry of the entire design will depend on it.
	In the second row, a pensive (ash) camera and the base of two vertical channels is formed. On the same row, the doors of the pensive and the cleaner cameras are installed.
	On metal doors there are special ears in which steel wire segments are tightened - they will then be mixed in the seams between bricks. Temporarily, to complete consolidation, the doors are supported by bricks from one or two sides.
	The third row continues the formation of a pensive chamber and the lower part of the vertical channels. At the same time, fastening from two sides of the installed door.
	On the fourth row, the doors of the pensive and clearance cameras are completely overlapped. The total camera of vertical channels is divided into two, so instead of a large hole, two, having a size of the length of the brick, and the width of the Pollipich are formed.
	The fifth row is completely laid out with chamoten brick. Over the ash chamber, a hole with a landing place for a grate grid is formed. For this, part of the brick cuts out, from the side that it must be rotated to the hole above the subdivinal chamber.
	On the same row is mounted and grate. It is planted on a clay solution or laid freely, without a solution. There should be a distance of 4-5 mm between it and brick.
	On the sixth row, the formation of a flue chamber and vertical channels continues.
	In addition, the flipper is installed on the same row, the frame of which, before installation, it is necessary to wind up or set asbestos, which, when heated metal, will give it an opportunity to expand without voltage and damage.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the coach, they continue to form the formation of fireboxes and vertical channels.
	On the ninth row, the cooler door is overlapped by brick. Moreover, to remove the load from the ceiling from the door, the side and third of the edge of the bricks are stated on the one hand, and between them is installed with a brick, shy on both sides.
	On the tenth row there is a combination of the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel - this is done in order for the hot smoke from the furnace to be sent to this generated hole. For smoothness of the course of smoke, protruding the angle of solid brick, which protects the second vertical channel, is cut.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry is followed by the scheme, except that on the edges of bricks framing the flue chamber, cuts are made, which will form a deepening for mounting one-mounted hobs.
	Then, on the same row on sections made on bricks, asbestos stripes are stacked, and the plate panel is mounted. From the formation of a cooking niche is installed steel corner.
	12 A row is laid out of red bricks, and in the future all the laying goes out of it. Two vertical channels are drawn up again, and there is a niche around the hob.
	13 row is placed according to the scheme, but in the front of the first vertical channel, a place is formed to install a summer-winter stroke gauge. After that, a valve is mounted on the clay-sandy solution.
	From 14 to 17 a row, the laying is performed according to one principle - the cooking niche and channels are formed.
	On the 18th row of steel corners there is a floating niches. One of them is mounted on the edge of a niche, the second - at a brick distance from the first, and the third pressed to the second back side. This is done in order to conveniently carry out the laying of the next row.
	A cooking niche is completely overlapped in 19, with the exception of the formation of the hole of the steam channel and the place to install the valve. To do this, the bricks make cutouts in which the valve is mounted.
	20 row is laid out according to the scheme. It continues the formation of two vertical channels and steaming. Moreover, if you carefully look at, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is shy.
	On the 21st row there is a combination of the first vertical channel and steaming with the help of the left-handed space. In this row, almost all bricks are put only on the walls of the perimeter of the structure. Only the second vertical channel is protected.
	In the same row, the resulting cavity is overlapped with metal stripes, which are stacked by the scheme shown in Figure.
	Further, a roofing sheet is laid on steel strips, with which the chimney hole is organized, located in the opposite side of the steaming.
	On the 22nd row, the masonry is made on top of the roofing sheet. The chimney hole is left and the two holes of vertical channels. In a place where the drying niche will be formed, the segment is stacked, which will protect the brick on the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more neat.
	23 row - a drying chamber is formed, and its rear wall is made of bricks installed on the side. He burns down the camera from the opening of the chimney channel.
	The walls of the drying chamber, chimney and two vertical channels are formed on the 24 row.
	25 row - work continues according to the scheme. The second brick of the rear wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first.
	On the 26th row there is preparation for the combination of two vertical channels, so internal bricks Both holes are heard at a low angle.
	27 A row - masonry combine the first and second channel. For them, a common worn door is installed. The rest of the work goes according to the scheme.
	On the 28th row there is overlapping the drying chamber with three sections of the corners along the same principle, as the overlap of a cooking niche was made. Vertical channels are combined into one wide, and the cleft door is fixed by side bricks.
	On 29, the drying chamber and vertical channels are completely overlapped. The opening of the chimney canal is left, which is placed with bricks with cut-out planting grooves for chimney valve. After laying a row, a frame with a valve is installed on the clay-sandy solution.
	On the 30th row, the entire surface of the furnace is completely overlapped. Only a chimney hole is left, which must be sized in the Pollipich.
	31-32 row - the formation of a chimney begins.

This figure shows an oven in the context. The scheme shows all the internal channels for which the heated air will circulate.

The furnace heating is not going to hurt himself at all. Wood stoves made of bricks continue to build not only the owners of rustic houses, but also the owners of large country cottages. Another question - how much does it cost to hire a master-baked to build yes to buy necessary materials. The only way Save - to fold the brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - the coaches presented below in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-collocked stove with a bed is not a newcomer, but the source of the heat of a simple design will be overcome.

Simple brick furnaces

The first thing to be concerned is to choose a home heater project that can satisfy your warmth needs. We offer 3 options simple structures tested in the work of many years of practice:

heating stove channel type, so-called holland;
cooking stove with oven and tank connected to water heating or DHW;
Swedie - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Channel stove - Holland

Alone to fold the Dutch shown in the picture, quite simple. It is different little sizes In the plan, it can be put into the height of it infinitely, the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to warm up a two-storey house of a small area or a cottage, if you build a dutch with a pass through the overlap. Channel stove successfully burned firewood various quality And satisfactorily heats the premises, although they won't call it economical.

Reference. Holland is quickly warming up, and after the attenuation, it is not long enough, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Her strong side - Easy construction and inconspicuration to fuel.

Plate shown in the photo, - convenient option For a cottage house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. The tank mounted on the path of hot flue gases is able to serve hot water For the heating system or economic needs.

Swedish brick furnaces combine the merits of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, they give the accumulated heat for a long time and they work equally well on firewood and coal. But the laying of the Swedet is not an example more difficult than the hob plus more brick and purchased iron accessories.

Swedish oven built into between the walls

Drawings and coaches

Furnace coach - Dutch

Holding scheme in context

The order of masonry of the hob

Schematic device plate
Swedish furnace order

Any brick furnace transfers heat into the room with two ways: with the help of infrared radiation from hot walls and through air heating circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater or at least part of it is in the heated room. Given this requirement, we will give some tips on choosing a place to build in a rural house and in the country:

If you need to heat one large room, then the stove is better lay out in the middle, with a little offset aside outdoor Wallwhere the cold goes from.
For heating 2-4 adjacent premises, the construction needs to be placed in the center of the building, dismantling some of the interior partitions.
Suppose 1-2 small rooms are adjacent to the hall. There can be spent water heating with radiators I. circulating pumpconnected to a furnace heat exchanger or Baku.
Do not plan to put the heater close to the outer walls. It is pointless to warm them, part of the heat will just go outside.
The cooking surface and oven must go into the kitchen, and the rudeness is in the living room or bedroom.

Council. Placing the heater in the center of the private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the lip of the roof. It is better to shift the structure by 20-40 cm and remove the pipe through one of the roofing rods.

Partitions and floors of wood or other combustible building materials that are closer than 500 mm from the body of the furnace, subsequently need to be protected by metal sheets. It is desirable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard. In a stone house, these precautions concern only wooden elements Roofs located near chimney.

Preparation of materials and components

The main building material from which the stove is built with their own hands is a red ceramic brick. It should be high-quality and necessarily full, stones with emptiness inside in the bary do not apply, except for the construction of street mangals and barbecue.

Council. Holland is so undemanding to the quality of materials that it can be made of red bricks, used. Only upon completion of the masonry it will have to be created, for example, to set tile Or come up with a beautiful tile decor.

To fold a small-sized oven - Dutch, it is necessary to prepare such materials and accessories:

Red burned brick - minimum 390 pcs.;
grill grate with a size of 25 x 25 cm;
Door loading 25 x 21 cm;
Small cleaning doors and ponded 14 x 14 cm;
Metal valve 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch can be postponed any required height. The specified number of bricks is enough for a construction in a single-storey private house.

List of components and building materials for the hob:

Full-time ceramic brick - 190 pcs.;
grate grille 25 x 5 cm;
Two-competophoic cast iron plate 53 x 18 cm with disks;
Door of the fuel chamber 25 x 21 cm;
Metal tank - boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
brass cabinet 32 \u200b\u200bx 27 x 40 cm;
Doors for cleaning 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs.;
chimney valve;
Steel corner of 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

In order to save money, the manufacture of a tank for heating water You can take on yourself - simply cook it from metal thick 3, and better - 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, put the coil stove inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But it must be remembered that in such a water circuit you need to organize a permanent circulation using a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly priece.

For the construction of the heating and cooking Swedish furnace you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Only take the corner more - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip of 40 x 4 mm and prepare a refractory (chamoten) brick on the fuel laying. To install accessories, find the soft wire made of steel with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Council by masonry solvent. Preparation of natural clay, on which experienced burns produce styling bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay and sand mixes for the construction of furnaces.

Bookmark Fundament

Before folding the furnace, it is necessary to prepare a solid base. The construction is rather heavy, so put it directly to the floors, even poured cement tie, is unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is a built-in structure that does not touch with the base of the building. If you build a brick heater near the walls or build an angular fireplace, you need to make an indent of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum lumen of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are filled with a screed, then for the furnace of the furnace foundation it is recommended to follow the next step-by-step instructions:

Remove the screed area and drop the pit, protruding the oven for 50 mm in each direction. Depth depends on the power of the upper layer of the sedimentary soil.
Put a sand pillow with a height of 100 mm and sink it. To the top fill the pit with a boot stone or broken brick, after which they pour with liquid cement mortar.
After frozen, laid the waterproofing layer from the frontieroid and install the formwork protruding over the screed, as shown in the drawing.
Prepare concrete and pour the foundation plate. For strength there, you can lay the reinforcement grid.

3 weeks later (full hardening time concrete mix) Put on the finished base of the roofing sheet, and from above - felt, impregnated with clay solution or basalt cardboard. After that, you can start laying the body of the furnace.

Scheme of the base device during wooden floors

To properly lay the foundation of the furnace under wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of the concrete slab, lay out the walls of the red brick (used) to the level outdoor coating. Emptiness inside with boot or rubble and concrete on top. Next - sheet metal, spatial felt clay and a solid first series of oven masonry. Receive more information on the topic you can watch video

When the question is about heating a small country house, better decision There will be an erection of the furnace. It is economically and practical, as the heat transfer from properly folded brick stoves at least 90 percent.

Brick ovens for many centuries justified their destination. And no matter how it changed and improved its design, the basic requirements for it remain the same. This is safety in use, convenience in operation and the ability to keep heat for a long time.

With a big desire, it is not difficult to lay out a mini brick oven with your own hands.

What are the favorable small ovens on firewood

The dignity of a small oven is that it takes very small square With high heat transfer. For country house, Baths, household buildings Mini furnace on firewood and coal comes perfect. Building materials goes at least, but if we put a cooking panel on top, you can cook and warm it, and heat the water. Even in our time, the warmness of the brick remains quite popular. The most important thing is to make it won't work as a novice master. Having before the eyes the scheme of the coach, you can fold the mini furnace with your own hands literally in one day day. Only pre-prepare all required tools and building materials.

Compared to the "bourgeitogo" brick mini oven for giving on firewood looks aesthetic. Subsequently, it can be made by a cafeter, and it will not only warm, but also decorate a country house.

Sometimes its design is combined with a fireplace, and this will already be a mini fireplace oven. You can immediately integrate the water heating tank or provide a niche for drying vegetables and fruits.

Very many brick furnaces. But these are more complex structures, and begin the construction of a mini furnace for giving with your own hands with the simplest model.

Required tools

Tools need a little, they can be easily purchased at any construction store:

List of tools:

kelma, or as it is also called, a trowel;
comfortable hammer-kirk;
building level;
roulette;
plumb.

In addition, in the process of work, you will need:

2 buckets (for water and mortar), construction sieve, trough, where to sink sand.

Construction materials for mini furnaces

Previously need to prepare clay. To do this, it is poured with water and leave so about a day. You can speed up and speed up, it is preferably to mix it every five to seven minutes, preferably with a mixer drill, within an hour. Strain through a sieve. Sand also first need to sift.

To fold the heating mini furnace, which will occupy an area of \u200b\u200b0.4 square meters. Meter, you will need:

20 liters of solution;
60 pieces of chimney red brick;
38-40 pieces of chamotte brick;
door firebox;
door pensive;
grate;
cooking panel;
fishing chimney.

Doors, grille and cooking panels must be cast iron.

If you do without chamotte brick, then it will be a mini stove model on firewood, and not on the corner. Red brick even high Quality From high temperatures that create coal fuel, collapsed over time. In general, to make a mini-Russian oven with your own hands, you just need to adhere to the recommendations.

Location and preparation of the foundation

The best location for such a furnace, if the cottage room consists of one room - in the center. In other cases, it is necessary to focus on the saint or the intersection of interior partitions. Be sure to take into account the rules of fire safety.

The foundation for the design of this size is not needed. However, in the base, it is necessary to put a thick durable board, fixed by lags, from above - fire prevention layer. It can be a conventional asbestos-cement sheet.

Then the waterproofing layer of polyethylene and the rubberoid size is approximately 80 to 55 cm. Plugs a thin layer of sand.

The order of masonry brick furnace with their own hands

The next stage is the construction of the stove itself:

In the first row, the solution does not apply. 12 pieces are strictly horizontally lay on the sand. On the clay and sandy solution put pushed. The door is wrapped with asbokarton, wrapped with a cord. Fastening produced wire.
Then make masonry of the second row.
In the third row, laid out of refractory brick, strictly over the confusion, put the grille of the grate.
Bricks in the fourth row go on the edge.
The chimney includes a partition stand. The rear wall is laying out without the use of the solution. These bricks will then need to be removed. Then they put the flue door, wrapped it with an asbestos cord. For fixing, temporarily use a couple of bricks. Fix with wire.
The fifth row lay out the plafhmy like the fourth.
The bricks of the sixth row go on the edge.
Bricks in the seventh row are plashed again. For a transcember ligament, it is necessary to start with a brick, a bitter quantity of three-quarters. Puting two bricks with an edge, begin to build a rear wall.
The eighth row will close the door of the furnace. To direct the fire to the center of the hob, bricks put at an angle. Tightness is provided with a wet asbestos cord.
The ninth row is also put using asbestos cord. The peculiarity of this series is that it is slightly shifted back to the door remains open.

The beginning of the chimney is formed in the tenth row. Here will be a place to attach the iron pipe. The eleventh row establishes the chimney valve. At this stage, step-by-step instructions are useful - how to fold the stove with your own hands, which will help not get confused in the details.

Final events

Three more rows brick masonry Perform for connecting to the pipe. After feeding the "gasts" bricks, the stove channels immediately purify from building garbage. The perimeter of the design is neatly closed by a plinth.

Pooring or facing the furnace is made after a test ignition.

Only after the mini-oven's whitewashed or lined with a tile will completely dry, it can be operated. So that the mini stove for the cottages pleased for a long time, you should not hurry with her extract. Let it stand for a week or two with open doors.

In the off-season and winter, the country's oven allows you to go well and cook food.

Brick heats up slowly, but long gives heat, creating a comfortable temperature by 6-7 hours. If there is a brass cabinet in the oven, from the evening the food remains warm until the morning.

Metal furnaces, in contrast to brick, quickly heat up, but also quickly cool together with the house. Brick stoves emit soft, comfortable warmth and evenly warm the house.

Schemes of heating furnaces for cottages

The choice of brick furnace depends on the presence of a gas cylinder and electricity.

If cooking is used gas or electricity, just build a stove intended for heating only.

If in winter time Electricity is disabled on the summer site and there is no gas, you should choose a stove on firewood with hobs. Choosing the oven, take into account in which part country house The heater will be located.

Drawing of a conventional brick oven on firewood

The heating furnace is built in the middle of the house or the wall. If at the cottage several rooms, heating construction embedded in the openings Made B. interior partitions. The main elements of the furnace are:

firebox;
pondered (asolnik);
smoke canals (vertical or horizontal);
chimney.

Country heating furnaces are laying from red (ceramic) refractory bricks. Many craftsmen lay the flopping part with refractory chamotte bricks.

Photo 1. An exemplary drawing of a duchkeeper heating furnace suitable for a small area of \u200b\u200ba small area.

Ceramic brick is put on several types of solution. So, for laying the base is suitable cement-sand mixtureFor the body of the stove - clay and sandy, for the calculation of the chimney - lime-sandy solution. Chamotte furnace is put on the clay-chammed solution.

The furnace size is of great importance for a small house. Compact heating furnaces for cottages include oven-holland furnace ( 3 x 5, 2 x 4 bricks Based on), mini-furnace ( 3 x 2 bricks) and similar structures.

For example, we give a diagram of a small Dutch furnace, quite suitable for the heating of a country house with a kitchen and a room, with total area 40-46 square meters.

The walls of the Dutch furnace are straight, without niche and decorative masonry. Key features Constructions:

Inside the case pass three vertical smoke channels.
Base width - 1010 x 510 mm (4 bricks long side, 2 - short).
Education height - 2 metersbut the furnace can be done on 2-3 layers lower or higher.

The furnace is built from full-length red brick. For the construction, you will need:

ceramic bricks - 390 pieces;
masonry Masonry Masonry - Sandy - 2-2.5 packs of 20 kg;
steel prestope sheet ( 100 x 50 cm);
copper iron or steel ( 25 x 25 cm);
door for firebox ( 25 x 21 cm);
door for pushed ( 14 x 14 cm);
catch ( 13 x 13 cm);
asbestos sheet ( 100 x 50 cm).

Heating-cooking

A small oven with a heating shield and hobs Ideal for a small country house. Key features of the design:

Heating flap vertical heating (end), it is the wall of the chimney.
Oven stands on extended columns Shazzhthat increases heat transfer.
There is no stove, And the air for burning firewood is supplied through the holes of the cooker.
This is a facility early on a solid either bought the foundation.
The bottom of the heat chamber is laying down by inclined, with a lifting to the chimney pipe.

Reference! Lower row of masonry can be done solid, without Shanntians. The design of the furnace allows you to embed heavy Cabinet or Water Tank In the back of the furnace.

Making a brick stove with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions

Building simple cottage stove. Borrow 1 or 2 days. Before starting work, the project of the heating structure is chosen, acquires tools, materials, metal parts of the furnace.

Photo 2. Furnace masonry on a dried foundation using a sand-clay solution and a red brick.

Choosing a project

The choice of projects are guided by several factors. Choosing a model, you should consider:

region of residence;
sizes of the country house;
location of the stove;
the cost of building the foundation;
the exercise costs;
availability of work experience with brick.

Reference! For heating the spacious cottage with high ceilings, large furnaces are erected. Small house Heated with a compact mini-stove.

If there is little experience or not at all, choose a simple project with easily readable drawings. The presence of the experience of the liver-practice allows you to choose a model of any complexity.

Consider detail the choice of materials, the construction of the foundation and the laying of a simple dacha stove without pushed, with the cooking floor.

Choosing materials

For the construction of this model, a wide variety of materials is not required. For laying will be needed:

ceramic bricks - 220 pieces;
2 packs of finished clay sand mixture For masonry stoves ( 20 kg);
broken brick, crushed stone and sand (From these materials make a pillow under the bottom of the heat chamber).

The height of the chimney depends on the height of the room. To output pipes on the roof make brick chimney. To reduce the total weight of the construction set iron chimneys.

For masonry use full-length red ceramic brick. Chamotted brick is also suitable for the furnace, but experience is required to work with such material.

Ceramic brick is put on the clay and sandy solution. It is seated from the finished mixture for masonry furnaces purchased in a construction store. For homemade Masters This option will be preferable.

If the wizard decided to prepare a solution from individual ingredients, it will take clay, fine-grained quartz sand (or the sand of a mixed composition). Grain size - 2 mm and less. These materials are bought or originated on the area in careers. Clay and sand is cleaned of stones, vegetable impurities. The sand is washed with running water and sieved through the sieve. Clay is soaked, pushing and also wipe through the sieve.

Photo 3. Bricks are fastened with a solution prepared from clay and quartz sand peeled from unnecessary impurities.

The ratio of clay and sand picks up experienced way Taking into account the fat content of clay. The solution prepared from the factory mixture and individual components should have a normal consistency. The quality of the paste is checked as follows: the solution is drawn by a trowel (or spatula) and tilt it at 45 degrees.

Attention! Normal solution firmly holds on working surface Tool. If the masonry paste is popped by pieces, water or clay is added to it if the solution splits, sand (or finished mixture) is added.

For the construction of the furnace, you need the details of factory manufacture. For this model, you will need:

cooking flooring cast iron (41 x 21 cm);
the door with a size of 25 x 21 cm with holes;
latching oven (13 x 13) see

How to fold the foundation

Medium weight full-time brick — 3, 45-3.5 kg. For construction goes 220 bricks, so the weight of the building will be 760-770 kg (not counting the weight of the brick chimney). By weight bricks add weight of the solution.

Photo 4. On the rubberoid fit into two layers of bricks, after the concrete flooded in the pitted.

As the weight of the construction exceeds 400 kgIt is necessary to build a foundation (solid or column). Without a foundation, on a robust floor, you can put only small stories. The following types of foundations are suitable for furnaces:

solid out pebbles, gravel and slag concrete;
solid out stone of boob and brick;
solid on monolithic concrete base with iron fittings;
columno pebbles, rubble and brickwork.

Reference! IN foundation columnal For strength laid concrete slabs.

For the selected model, the heating and cooking stove is suitable for a solid concrete reinforced foundation. The construction of the foundation includes the following steps:

In the ground digging the pit, around the perimeter leaving the base of the oven by 15-20 cm. Drive down 50-100 cm. Its bottom must be below the level of primerization of the soil.
The ground in the pit is tamped by the end of the column.
On the bottom of the pit poured a layer of rubble ( 15 cm).
Over puffed mediterranean or coarse sand ( 25 cm).
Sand and rubble pillow tamper wooden column and rolle.
The bottom and walls are covered with rubberoid. Waterproofing seams are sealed with bitumen or hauddiga.
A grille made of steel corrugated reinforcement is installed in the pit. The thickness of the rod is not less than 8 mm. Cell size - 8x8 or 10x10 cm.
Boiled poured concrete. Concrete seal the vibrate to the air bubbles come out.
The foundation is left to completely grasp concrete (according to the instructions for the cement of a particular brand).
The horizontal foundation is tested by the construction level, if necessary, the surface is aligned with an additional portion of cement.
The foundation is placed extra waterproofing - 2 layers of rubberoid, in size of the foundation.
There are two layers of ceramic bricks on the rubberoid. After drying, the foundation is ready for the construction of the furnace.

Important! If the project foundation will rise above the ground, concrete is put in wooden formwork.

Building at the cottage: phased instructions

For masonry, you will need a cooking tool: spatulas (wide and narrow), Kelma, trowel, strip, construction level, plumb, aluminum rule. For the preparation of the solution you need a tank, a wooden stirrer (paddle), a building mixer. The laying is conducted according to the scheme.

1 and 2 rows. Schant masonry (columns).
3, 4 rows. Solid laying according to the schemes.
On the bottom of the furnace, with a bias, put the clay-sandy solution to which the broken brick (pillow) is added. The thickness of the pillow in the depth of the furnace is equal to the brick thickness, in the portal of the furnace, the thickness of the layer tends to zero.
Installing the furnace door. To the top and bottom of the door frame on the bolts fasten steel strips or wire. The planks will be embedded in the suture of the solution. If the door is fixed on a wire, then it is also placed in the laying seams.

Photo 5. Before you start putting the furnace, you need to make a scheme, given the size of the room, and stick to it.

5 row. Solid laying of the bottom chamber.
6, 7, 8, 9 rows. Laying of firebox. Final sealing in the seams of fastening of the furnace door (slats, wire).
10 row. Completion of laying furnace. Formation of chimney holes and hob openings.
11-26 rows. Laying of the chimney, which in this model plays the role of the end screen.
27 row. Laying according to the scheme. Installing the valve.
28-30 rows. Laying according to the scheme.
31 row. Completion of the furnace masonry. Formation of the hole for the chimney.
Laying of cooking raised.
Masonry of the chimney of brick or installation metal chimney pipe.
The furnace portal strengthens the prestituct sheet. Under the sheet is put asbestos cardboard or a piece of felt, impregnated with clay. The sheet is screwed to the floor per screw. To eliminate the gap between the furnace and sheet, the steel corner is installed.

Photo of summer stoves

Photo 6. Country conventional red refractory brick oven, heated with firing, with a confusion and firing.

Photo 7. Brick oven in the room, which can be folded with your own hands on the finished scheme.

Photo 8. Compact heating furnace with a bed for giving quickly heats up and is holding heat for a long time.

What difficulties and problems may arise when laying

When erecting chimney, inexperienced masters do not use a plumb, As a result, the wall deviates from the vertical position that creates a threat to destruction.

In case of deviation from the vertical, the masonry is discharged with water and disassemble, then lay out again, using a plumb.

Bottom chamber tilted to chimney door. The slope (pillow) is filled with clay crushes. If the brick is put on an uneteced pillow, it can deform.

If this happened, the bottom of the cooler camera is disassembled, smoking the seams. Then remove the bricks, restore the bias and give it to dry. After that, the bottoms are put on the bottom.

Incorrect consistency homemade solution leads to the appearance of cracks during operation.

If there are few cracks, they are smeared with new, high-quality solution. If the cracks are deep and through them go smoke, the solution is very cold, the furnace is most likely to be shifted.

In the furnace of this model, firewood is used as fuel. If we burn coal in the furnace, many ashes will appear, and the furnace will overheat, up to the formation of cracks due to uneven warm-up of the upper and lower part of the heating structure. In this case, the cracks are climbing with mortar, instead of coal, firewood is used.

Useful video

The video presents an example of how you can assemble the heating and cooking furnace from the brick.

What time can you use the device

Immediately after masonry, the furnace will not be heading. Natural dried masonry occupies 5-8 days. The drying time is the greater the lower the air temperature. At negative temperatures, the masonry does not enhance at all.

To accelerate drying in the furnace, they guide the heat fan or include a powerful electric incandescent lamp.

After a natural drying, the stove begins to produce, using small dry-haired yelling. The period of forced drying occupies a different time ( from 10 days to 3 weeks

Each dacket has a dream to at his cottage in cozy house Standing oven. Having decided and putting a little strength, you can build a small furnace in your house with your own hands. Brick oven-baby will not take a large amount of time and available without special skills.

When laying the oven - Babes do not need to install the foundation, since it has a light weight.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace will take 0.4 m². It will be laid out of the brick, which will be put on the edge or plafhmy. The stove-baby, despite its sizes, will be able to give and retain heat. For such a furnace, it is not necessary to build a foundation, as it will not have a greater weight. It is enough to have a floor of a thicker, which will be well fixed on the lags.

Such a brick stove will easily replace bourgear, and its functionality will be much richer.

She can combine hurry function (It will have a cast iron stove), as well as the heating (the presence of chimney), in addition to this, it can be used as a fireplace, as there is a smoke tooth.

Laying the oven is so fast that, starting work in the morning, in the evening you will already carry out a test fake. At the very beginning, it is recommended to drip down with a pinch and paper, since the cracks on the finally not frozen laying solution can be made due to a sharp drop of temperature. Such an outcome can create an additional air seats or smoke. Therefore, to use for a lamp firebox, you need to wait for a complete drying of the solution, it may take about a week.

Tools and materials

Red is the main material for the construction of a baby stove.

In order to build a small stove, the following materials will be needed:

red chimney brick - 60 pcs;
- 37 pcs;
calinic solution - 20 l;
door pensive - 1 pc;
grass grille - 1 pc;
fake door - 1 piece;
cast iron burner plate - 1 pc;
like - 1 pc.

List mandatory instruments When erecting the furnace:

kelma is necessary in order to apply and spitting the solution, as well as to cut the seams;
the hammer-korcha is needed to chop and cut off the brick;
level is necessary to control the horizontal of masonry;
plumbing (load with cord) is needed to control the verticality of the corners and planes of the masonry;
rule (wooden line with a cross section of 1.5x6 cm and a length of 1-1.5 m, having parallel planes) is needed in order to monitor straightness and horizontal of masonry (it is placed on it);
steel m or roulette.

Deoperation of masonry furnace

First, choose a place under the oven.

Furnace Styling Scheme - Babes

In place on which the location of the furnace is assumed polyethylene film, Ruberoid, hydroizol or pergamine (780x530mm). After the litter is laid, it is poured onto it and the layer of dry sand is lined with 1 cm thick. On this sand without a fastening, the first row is laid out of 12 bricks. The row must be aligned in the level to ensure the correct horizontality. From above, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of the clay solution and put a confusion door. The door must be wrapped in a wet asbestos cardboard or a cord. Next, the door is fixed, after which the statement of the second row begins.

For the layout of the third row applied chamotte brick. From above of the third row it is necessary to install a grate grid. It should be above the confusion after the formation of a series.

To calculate the fourth row, the brick is placed on the edge, the stand is put inside the chimney for the inner partition. Back wall The furnace is placed without a clay solution so that the brick a little spoke out.

Now it is necessary to start installing the furnace door. Before installing it, it turns into several turns of the asbestos cord, and there should be an opportunity to open it from above and below. The door must be fixed with wire and fix for a while with two bricks (one behind, the other on it, and from above - door).

The brick of the fifth row is placed on the contour of the previous row.

The sixth brick row must be putting an edge. After that, wipe the chimney with a wet rag.

The seventh is placed again, starting with a three-hard speed, to provide a bundle with the next next. The rear must consist of two bricks laid out by an edge.

The eighth is closed by a flue door, two bricks are completed on top. This series is laid out with a beveled brick, which should hang over the furnace. This is necessary in order for the flame to be shifted to the center of the hob of the hob during the use of the furnace as a fireplace with an open furnace door.

The ninth row is shifted back to maintain the door in the open position. Before deploying bricks, you need to put a moistened asbestos cord to ensure the tightness of the locks of the cast-iron hob and brick. The stove should not be laid directly on the clay, since there is a difference of coefficients of temperature expansion of contacting materials (clay and cast iron).

A chimney is formed on the tenth row, it must have a gradual expansion back. The design of the furnace should be taken into account, which does not allow the installation of a mounted brick tube due to the expansion up. When installing such a pipe, the center of gravity of the entire design is shifted. Therefore, an insertion is installed, or a low iron nozzle tube.

On the eleventh row, you need to install a valve compacted by asbestos cord, lubricated clay.

Now the chimney has a smoke pipe that needs to be shown with lightness metal pipe. When shifting the pipe to the side, the overlap of 3 rows of bricks is made.

Embroidery bricks are removed and the lower part of the chimney from the garbage and moisture in the process of work is removed.

Now you can proceed to the blink of the furnace. Milk and blue is added to the whitelle, so that the oven is not glad.

That's ready brick oven-baby. Doors are left open for a couple of weeks for drying.