The main methods of laying block parquet. How to lay parquet: methods, necessary tools and a step-by-step process for proper installation We lay parquet board without glue

The service life of the coating, its performance, and its appearance depend on how high-quality the parquet laying will be. Therefore, when deciding to carry out the installation with your own hands, you must first thoroughly study the features of the process, draw up an action plan, and prepare a set of specialized tools.

A bonus will be a thematic video "Parquet laying: video with step-by-step instructions", clearly teaching the correct actions, which can be found at the end of the article. As for the parquet itself, everything is simple here. Single-piece is the most demanded version of it, practical and convenient to use, fixed by means of the “thorn-groove” locking system with slats thickness from 15 to 22 mm, length - up to 50 cm and width - up to 75 mm. Below are several options for laying the material.

Installing block parquet is almost as easy as installing parquet board, but there can be many more pattern options.

Regardless of how the block parquet will be laid (there are several installation methods), an important condition is the correct preparation of the base. The base can be made on the basis of a concrete screed, cement or log. If this is the third option, then the first layer is formed from roofing material, covering it with logs and plywood to level the surface, heat and sound insulation of the coating. In addition, plywood sheets as an auxiliary layer guarantee a high level of strength in the finished floor.

If we are talking about a concrete screed, then the surface of the base is carefully leveled with self-leveling mixtures, if necessary, sanded for additional evenness, cleaned and dried. As an intermediate layer, square plywood sheets are also used, fixed to the base with dowel-nails.

It is important not to forget about the gap between honey sheets of at least 1 mm in case of expansion of the material under the influence of temperature extremes and moisture. Another gap of strategic importance is the expansion joint between the wall surface and the plywood - at least 2 mm. For convenience, wedges are used at this stage, which are removed during the installation of the skirting boards.

Such a variant of the intermediate layer is also possible.

A cement screed as a base for a parquet floor must also be dry, clean, level and practical. Height differences of more than a millimeter by two square meters are not allowed. Floor moisture should be between 2% and 4%.

To improve the adhesion of the parquet to the floor, it is advisable to treat the base with primer mixtures before installation. The glue and the primer must be compatible with each other - the quality of adhesion depends on this. At a humidity level exceeding the norm, a polyurethane compound is used, which creates a waterproofing barrier. Primer mixtures are applied with a spatula or roller.

As in the two previous two cases, it will be correct to lay plywood sheets between the cement base and the parquet to improve the sound and heat insulation properties. The optimal parameters of the intermediate material are 1.5 × 1.5 meters with a thickness of 12 mm. Plywood is fastened to the base with self-tapping screws or parquet glue, as an option, the use of screws is also allowed, although this method is not the most practical, since over time the floor under the parquet will loosen and cause a squeak.

It is not necessary to do the entire floor from scratch, you can often use the existing one

Another option for installing parquet is on an old wooden floor. Here, work can be started only after thorough preparation of the base with the solution of problems with creaks, failures, deformations and other defects.

Before laying the parquet on the old floor, it is dismantled in damaged areas, repaired, sanded, cleaned and dried. In this case, plywood sheets as an intermediate layer will not be needed, since the base of wood itself will play its role.

Installation options for block parquet - what methods are used

Most often, do-it-yourself parquet laying is done by the floating method. This option is the easiest, since the floor elements are equipped with a special locking system and are simply attached to each other without dust, dirt and unnecessary effort. The planks are joined according to the thorn-groove principle. When installing using this system, you need to remember that the floor is not fixed on the base, which means that it will be especially susceptible to changes in the indoor climate. Hence the name - floating mounting method.

To exclude deformation of the coating, one should not forget about the gap between the planks of the first row and the wall (at least 1 cm), which is subsequently masked by skirting boards.

Plank parquet with grooves

Planks are laid by a floating method on a layer of vapor barrier and sound insulation. It is convenient for this to use a cork material, the porous structure of which increases its thermal insulation properties.

The advantage of the floating method is the high speed of installation, ease of operation, absence of dust and dirt, as well as the ability to repair the floor in certain areas during operation, if necessary.

When laying block parquet on a plywood floor with glue, you need to be careful so that there are no cracks and gaps

The technology of laying block parquet on glue will turn out to be somewhat different. First of all, this option implies the preparation of materials for the work. This is necessarily a high-quality parquet one- or two-component glue (preferably water-based), a roller, brushes, a spatula for application, as well as a drill with a nozzle to obtain a homogeneous mass.

The floorboards are mounted on a base coated with glue (only a section for one row is prepared), with a passing connection using a locking system. Just as in the previous case, leave an indent between the wall and the planks of the first row of 1 cm, driving in plastic or wooden wedges in this place.

The main technologies for installing a parquet floor - the nuances of laying

In addition to the options for fastening methods, there are also different installation methods that affect the appearance of the finished floor. The following types of masonry are most often used:

deck;
Herringbone;
squares;
mosaic;
rhombuses;
Sheremetyevskaya star.

Let's consider how the parquet laying differs in each of the options.

Deck laying consists of parquet boards laid longitudinally with the offset of each next row by half. This installation method increases the level of rigidity of the floor. Dice are mounted from the wall opposite the door, gradually moving towards the exit.

To obtain a floor that is visually a seamless glossy surface, the planks are attached longitudinally to the light entering the window. Before starting the installation, the dies of the first row are laid out taking into account the indentation from the wall, marking the cutting line from the last element.

For strong fixation, before installing each subsequent row, at the junction of the connection of two strips, connect the board of the next row, loosening it slightly to align the joint horizontally. This is how they deal with all joints. A jigsaw is suitable for sawing planks. Such a tool will not damage the surface of the elements.

Parquet can also be laid diagonally on the deck, having previously drawn a diagram on the basis for ease of installation.

Deck styling looks interesting, despite the simplicity of the drawing.

It is possible to correctly lay the parquet with a herringbone, using strips that have spikes on two corner sides and grooves on the other two sides. Installation is carried out in such a way that the connections are in the same direction.

You can fix the planks at an angle to the walls at 45 or 90 degrees. Installation begins with a lighthouse "herringbone", that is, with the laying of the first two rows to set the main line. The initial herringbone should be perfectly flat, therefore it is recommended to use a line stretch or drawing to align the dies. The parquet is mounted on glue with additional fixation using a locking system.

Parquet, laid with mosaic or wicker, is a square or rectangles made of strips. Laying out the drawing is quite simple. To do this, the strips are laid out in the form of the desired geometric figure, lining them up perpendicular to each other with each subsequent offset to the side for the effect of a checkerboard.

Christmas tree styling is one of the most popular

There are many options for laying in this way, ranging from a simple mosaic with alternating the circumference of the planks in one direction with a circle inside in the perpendicular direction and ending with crosses, stripes, etc. The figures can be positioned at an angle of 45 degrees, which implies a large consumption of parquet.

You can lay parquet on your own using the Sheremetyevskaya Zvezda technology using rectangular and oblique diamond-shaped elements. The mosaic laid out on the floor in this way will become an interior decoration. To achieve the desired effect, styling is carried out according to a pre-drawn scheme.

How to work with artistic parquet - features

Artistic parquet is a subspecies of the classic piece with patterns formed by combining dies with different parameters, colors, shades. It can be boards from one species of wood, or from several, different in appearance, but in harmony with each other in properties.

Artistic parquet flooring has a number of advantages over conventional flooring:

the surface looks unusual and original, allowing you to emphasize the individuality of the interior in the room;
the finished floor does not require the use of additional decorative elements, as it is an integral harmonious composition;
the service life exceeds several decades, subject to the rules of care and use, while maintaining the appearance and performance;
the coating is environmentally friendly and safe;
high level of heat and sound insulation properties;
unpretentious care;
the possibility of carrying out repair and restoration work.

Correct laying of artistic parquet allows you to create interesting geometric patterns in a simple way - by connecting the dies into a “thorn-groove”. Floor elements can differ in fiber pattern due to different sawing options. Artistic parquet is mounted after finishing the walls and ceilings, fastening with communication.

An interesting drawing of art parquet always attracts attention and adds unusualness to the room

In the process of carrying out work in the room, they maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions. The temperature is within 18-23 degrees Celsius above zero, the humidity is no more than 60%.

As for the installation itself, it consists of the same stages as the installation of a conventional block parquet. At the initial stage, the base is prepared - it must be dry, clean and even, after which it is treated with primer mixtures, a layer of heat and waterproofing is arranged. The boards are fixed in one of the above ways, choosing the best installation option from ready-made schemes or working according to an individual plan.

At the final stage, the coating is putty, polished, primed and varnished with the number of layers from two to seven. Alternatively, you can consider a coating based on oil mixtures or mastic, but in the case of artistic parquet, it is the lacquer layer that will be most appropriate, since it can not only protect the floor, but also emphasize its luxury and elegance.

Like any other parquet floor, artistic parquet requires preliminary preparation and proper care to maintain its integrity and appearance.

Laying parquet takes quite a lot of time and it takes a lot of effort in order to correctly and efficiently perform all the necessary work.

Before proceeding directly with the laying of the parquet itself, it is worth carefully leveling the floor surface, because it should be perfectly flat, without any slopes and grooves.

Depending on the optimal method, parquet leveling can take from one day to several weeks. After the floor has been completely prepared, you can immediately start laying block parquet.

First of all, a layer of plywood is laid on the prepared floor, and then the parquet planks are applied from above. It takes a certain amount of time to complete all the work, which depends on the size of the planks of the parquet itself, as well as the complexity of the pattern and, naturally, on the area of the room itself, in which the installation work is carried out.

Laying uncoated block parquet - stages of work

preparatory stage and leveling of the floor surface;
installation work on laying block parquet;
polishing parquet boards;
parquet priming and varnishing.

It is necessary to lay block parquet in a strictly defined order.

Installation work for laying block parquet

1. Initially, when laying the parquet, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work for the installation of the board. After all the work has been completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the floor covering itself.

2. After a few days, you can move on to the next stage of installing the parquet, namely sanding. The floor covering must be sanded without fail in order to level the surface, as well as to clean it from various contaminants formed during the installation process. 3. After the sanding process has been completed, it is imperative to putty all the gaps between the laid planks, because even with the ideal laying of the floor covering, there is a slight deformation of the boards under the influence of moisture, which is absorbed into the wood from the adhesive. 4. After that, it is imperative to re-grind, so that the surface becomes perfectly flat. At the end of all work, it is necessary to prime the parquet and open it with varnish. It is worth remembering that you need to open the surface of the block parquet at least several times so that it looks smooth and shiny. When everything is ready, you need to wait a certain time for the flooring to dry well.

Parquet varnishing

The final stage of laying a parquet board is its varnishing. The service life of the floor covering itself depends on its quality. The varnish helps to protect the parquet from moisture penetration into it, as well as from mechanical stress on it.

The appearance of the floor covering largely depends on the quality of the varnish itself. To emphasize the exquisite wood pattern, as well as to make the room much larger and brighter, it is worth using a glossy varnish, which, among other things, has an excellent shine.

Using a matte varnish, you can somewhat cool down a very bright pattern applied on the parquet, and the room also looks very cozy.

Laying block parquet takes a lot of time and also requires a lot of investment. However, with proper use, its service life significantly exceeds the service life of a natural board, because it can be easily repaired. That is why, having completed the installation of such a floor covering, you can ensure comfort in the house for a long time.

No matter how the developers of innovative floor coverings try to improve the material, the gaze of the intelligent owner of a residential property invariably turns to parquet and solid classics. Despite the colossal number of advanced achievements in this area, the question of how to correctly lay parquet flooring with your own hands is still relevant. After all, home craftsmen who strive to lay an amazing patterned floor from wooden planks are unlikely to be transferred yet.

The main secrets of parquet laying

Parquet flooring is a complex structure consisting of one or more sub-layers and a top covering made of wooden blocks. Dies are also called planks, parquet floors or rivets. They are represented by wooden elements of a predominantly rectangular configuration in plan, in front and in profile. Along the perimeter, the dies are equipped with grooves and ridges for fastening.

Observed component of a parquet floor

The width of the rivets is usually a multiple of the length, which makes it easy to create a variety of geometric patterns. Standards for the width of parquet flooring 5-7.5 cm, length 21-49 cm according to GOST, numbered 862.1-85. The values of the thickness indicated in the data sheets start from 14 mm and end with 22 mm.

Note. The optimal thickness of the parquet floor for the arrangement of living quarters is considered to be 15-18 mm. For thinner planks, the working layer is quickly erased, especially if sanding is often carried out. Thick parquet floors are not elastic.

Parquet flooring material can be supplied not only in the form of rectangular planks. On sale there are ready-made boards with fragments of a parquet floor assembled on a coniferous basis and modules fastened from above according to the principle of ceramic mosaic with cardboard or paper.

Base hidden from view

The number and technical characteristics of the underlying elements depend on the type and condition of the rough base, which most often includes:

concrete floors: prefabricated or monolithic floors with or without a screed;
wooden beams with logs installed for laying the flooring;
a plank floor, the floorboards of which, after repair and polishing, serve as a rough base.

According to the instructions of SNiP with the number 3.04.01-87, it is allowed to lay rivets or finished parquet boards on a prepared base. Within 2 meters of the completed preparation, deviations in height no more than 2 mm can be recorded. Those. when installing a 2-meter rail on a rough floor in an arbitrary vector direction max, the gap between this control device and the surface can be only 2 mm, preferably less. The slope is acceptable, but its size is limited by the same reference: max 0.2%, not exceeding 5 cm.

The primary purpose of the do-it-yourself paver is to form a rough subfloor that meets the technical requirements. The number and type of operations to be performed determines the material from which the roughing base is made and the degree of wear.

Tasks of using moisture resistant plywood

The second stage, the result of which you have to admire and brag about, is the piece-by-piece laying of the elements on a prepared base. According to the overwhelming majority of technological schemes, the top layer of preparation is a moisture-resistant plywood substrate, because it:

serves as a reliable module for fastening small-caliber dies-rivets of a parquet floor;
compensates for the difference in thermal expansion of the concrete base and wood coating;
eliminates the suction from the overlap and from the subfloor of moisture, which can render expensive natural material unusable;
performs the function of a shut-off element in the case of a floating floor;
plays the role of a leveling layer.

If it is possible or necessary to reduce the height of the ceilings by 5 cm or more, you can simply purchase sets of adjustable floors with the Knauf brand and carry out preparation, both for concrete and wood, in one day. The products of the same manufacturer should be used if, with expanded clay as insulation, it is to be carried out over a cold basement.

So, we found out that plywood should be used. There are plenty of ways to align with it. Let's forget for a while about the existence of factory sets for dry screed and analyze the budget preparation options, for the implementation of which inexpensive building materials and our own forces are required.

Three preparation options

The quality of the leveling carried out before the installation of the parquet floor affects the number of finishing operations and the duration of the coating's service life. Those wishing to lay the parquet flooring reliably and aesthetically with their own hands should know that due to defects in the base:

loosened, cracked and after a very short period of time, the ridges of the parquet flooring will break;
the floor will creak mercilessly;
you will have to carry out additional grinding, thinning the working layer of the material. As a result, the number of polishing-polishes required for the subsequent restoration of the parquet floor is reduced.

In order to avoid such unsightly consequences, consider how the alignment of the three types of base for parquet is performed.

Conditions and schemes for pouring the screed

The screed is poured mainly to eliminate defects in concrete floors:

Height differences and defects within 1-2 cm are removed by grinding the concrete floor, followed by pouring either cement-sand or polymer leveling mortar. Before the screed device, the base is primed twice with a penetrating compound. The polyurethane two-component primer will stabilize and strengthen the upper layers of the subfloor and act as a waterproofing agent.
In case of flaws of more than 2 cm, it will be necessary to re-fill the leveling layer with the laying of polyethylene as a waterproofing and a cut-off layer. From strips of polyethylene, you need to build a kind of pallet with 10 centimeter sides. Because the thickness of the layer is usually 3-4 cm; it is mainly used for leveling sand-cement mixtures with reinforcement. It is more economical and convenient to reinforce with polypropylene fiber, but you can also use a mesh.

The layer of cement-sand leveling under the parquet should be hardened for at least 4 weeks. According to rounded popular calculations, 1 week is given for hardening 1 cm of the screed. At the end of the specified period, you should also take your time with the installation if you plan to attach the dies directly to the leveling layer. You need to wait more than 5-6, even better 7 weeks, until moisture ceases to emerge from the screed.

Attention. If you plan to glue the parquet flooring directly to the primed screed, you need to use cement mixtures with the M150-300 brands for pouring it. They are distinguished by their high compressive strength. Adhesive for parquet flooring will require elastic.

There is no need to wait for complete hardening if moisture-resistant plywood is laid on top of the fill. Enough 28 days, and it can be fixed with screws or dowel-nails to the leveled floor. For this, plywood sheets are cut into 4 parts and laid at intervals according to the principle of brickwork. Cut to minimize expansion and eliminate undulating. Gaps of 2-3 mm are left between the quartered segments for linear compression-expansion. The hardware hats are sunk 3-5 mm into the plywood, so as not to damage the disc of the grinding machine later.

Attention. If, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is also used to fix plywood sheets to the screed, it is recommended to purchase it with the same brand and properties as the primer to optimize adhesion.

When using glue, the process of laying parquet on a plywood backing will need to be postponed. You will have to wait for the curing period specified by the manufacturer of the binder. After that, the plywood preparation is sanded along the seams, in order to remove the height differences of adjacent sheets, and at the same time dirt and factory flaws.

A technological gap of 0.9 - 1.2 cm must be left between the walls and the plywood layer around the perimeter. It is formed using spacer wedges. The spacers are not removed until the parquet flooring is completely laid. Only after the installation is completed, they need to be pulled out, the gap created by the wedges should be filled with polyurethane foam so that moisture does not get on the side edges in the future. From above, the foamed seam is covered with a plinth.

Attention. The skirting board is attached only to the walls, its slats do not fit tightly with the parquet. At least 1 mm must remain between the parquet floor and the skirting board.

Lags as a way of leveling

It is also a dry screed method, which allows not to stretch the process of floor construction for many months due to long technological breaks. For the construction, a bar with sides of 4 and 5 cm is used.Work is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Install logs every 30 cm, fasten with self-tapping screws or corners to a concrete or wooden rough base. A traditional gap for linear expansion should be left between the ends of the timber and the walls.
Level in the horizontal plane by adding sand, if the sub-base is made of concrete, by lining wedges, roofing felt or parchment inserts, if the base is made of wood. The excess is cut off with a plane.
In the plywood cut into 4 equal parts, 9 holes are pre-baited, through which they are fastened to the logs with self-tapping screws. The brick laying principle is followed by default, as well as the deformation indent along the perimeter. No cross connections are allowed.
By analogy, the second layer of plywood backing is constructed. Only quartered sheets are laid with an offset so that the seams of the first row do not coincide with the seams of the second. The first layer of plywood is treated with a primer, then with glue. Then self-tapping screws are screwed, the size of which depends on the total thickness of the plywood layer.
After the glue dries, sanding is carried out.

The plywood substrate on the logs is laid in two layers, the total height of which should be approximately equal to 30 mm. The thickness of the parquet flooring determines the thickness of the plywood laid on the screed. Usually it is less than the equivalent parquet size by 5 mm.

Plank floor preparation

It consists in repairing and sanding floorboards, if their thickness after processing with a sanding unit does not become less than 30 mm. Otherwise, the boards will have to be dismantled and new material will have to be laid on top of which the parquet planks will be attached.

If the board simply replaces the first layer of plywood, its thickness, combined with the thickness of the substrate, may not exceed 3 cm. And it can be laid with centimeter gaps to ensure ventilation and temperature movement.

Note. It is advisable to choose a primer for glue for wooden floors with antistatic properties.

Technological procedure for laying parquet

At the disposal of parquet layers, there are a lot of options for the layout of dies: from the simplest "deck" with a "herringbone" to complex artistic patterns with mosaic modules and borders. In anticipation of the work, a layout plan is drawn up, which can be directed along any of the walls or at a 45 ° angle. Corner laying is advised to start from the center row. The same should be done if whole rows of the selected pattern are not obtained.

To orient the first row, they construct something like a mooring cord. Two nails are driven into the plywood from opposite sides of the row planned for laying, and the fishing line is pulled over them.

It is not forbidden to use one-component glue, but it is better to spend money and buy a two-component one. It will definitely not emit water harmful to the parquet.

In principle, the parquet laying technology is not at all complicated, it consists in the sequential execution of the following actions:

the prepared surface is thoroughly covered with soil;
With a spatula-comb, glue is applied to a small area, because the binder dries extremely quickly;
a pre-assembled fragment of two or three dies is laid on the glue, taking into account the reference-mooring. Parquet floors are glued with some effort. Excess glue squeezed out from under the parquet flooring should be removed immediately;
you can fasten each installed strip with two or three nails or pins through the comb. The hardware is driven in at an angle of 45º. The heads of nails should be sunk into the comb with a parquet heel. Fastening of parquet flooring can be done through three elements;
completely laid parquet is left for the period of adhesive curing;
then they are sanded in two or more steps, changing at each stage the sanding paper to an analogue with a smaller grain size. Grind until the defects that appear during operation are cut off;
open with a stain, if there is a desire to change the color of the floor, then varnish in 3-9 layers.

The technology of building a parquet floor has a lot of wisdom. However, there is nothing prohibitively complicated. Of course, parquet flooring for the first time is unlikely to look like the floors in Versailles, but it's worth a try. What if it comes out better?

There is also a way of laying with the additional use of nails, but it seems unreasonable to us, if the first two methods can perfectly hold the parquet together.

Floating way

Floating parquet is the easiest option. The parquet planks are joined together according to the tenon-to-groove principle. Since the floating method does not fix the parquet to the base, it will expand and contract depending on the humidity and temperature in the room. Therefore, when laying, you need to indent from the walls 1 cm. If you do not indent, the parquet will soon begin to creak, which is very unpleasant.

Floating parquet should be laid on a previously laid layer of vapor barrier, and then soundproofing. Cork insulation is well suited as a sound insulation material, which also has good thermal insulation characteristics due to its porous structure.

If the parquet is installed in a floating way, it can be repaired.

Method of laying on glue

Glueing parquet flooring requires more time and labor (and, of course, buying glue, having a notched trowel and a drill with a mixing attachment). Also, in the case of fixing parquet with glue, the base (as a rule, plywood) must be pre-primed for good adhesion to the glue. There are different types of primers for wood and concrete.

The disadvantage of laying block parquet on glue is the impossibility of repair.

How to properly lay block parquet

The first thing to know is to install your parquet floor at room temperature and normal humidity.

Laying block parquet is a process consisting of the following steps:

Preparation of the base for laying parquet. Often, a subfloor is made first (we have a whole series of articles devoted to various types of subfloors). If a subfloor is not required, you can simply put roll and slab sound insulation (it can have both thermal and waterproofing characteristics at the same time; an example is a cork backing, DSP boards, sometimes moisture-resistant plywood is enough: it depends on what conditions your room has, and what's underneath). If, for example, this is the floor on the second floor, and there is a bathroom under it, then it makes sense to take care of waterproofing.
The distance from the walls is 1 cm. when laying any kind of parquet, an indent from the walls is required (even when laying on glue). When installing in a floating way, the indentation is necessary for the natural expansion of the wood. When laying on glue, the indent is needed to create additional sound insulation, due to the lack of adhesion of the floor to the walls. During installation, the indent from the walls must be provided with plastic liners 1 cm thick.
Parquet laying according to technology. We will talk about them below. If you are laying parquet using the technology of deck laying, then in each next row the offset of the board should be at least 30 cm, or better by half.
Grinding (aka scraping) parquet (if it does not have a finished front surface). For grinding, you need to use a special grinder. It can be rented.
Parquet tinting as required. Tinting is needed to emphasize the contrast of the wood structure: for example, the fibers will be better visible.
Parquet varnishing. It is required, first of all, to protect the parquet, and only then to create a glossy effect.
Plinth installation.

Hit parquet boards together either with a rubber-tipped hammer or through a wooden plank (the plank must be pressed down to the floor so that it does not fly out and does not scratch the parquet flooring on impact). When laying the last row, it must be tamped to the already laid row using a special tamping strip (staples).

Block parquet laying technologies

Parquet planks can be laid using different technologies, each of which looks in its own way:

Deck laying (normal);
"Herringbone";
Squares;
Rhombuses;
Braids (mosaic);
Sheremetyevskaya star.

Deck

Deck installation is a conventional longitudinal installation of parquet planks with the next row offset by about half to increase rigidity. It is better to start laying from the wall opposite the door, moving towards the exit.

If the finished laid coating is to be a seamless gloss, then lay the planks longitudinally to the light.

Before laying the first row, lay the planks to their full length, taking into account the distance from the walls of 1 cm, if necessary, mark the cutting line from the final plank, and install. Depending on the type of connection, piece parquet can simply be pushed into the grooves of adjacent planks, or it can be smoothly wound at a slight slope, gradually lowering it.

To make sure that the joint is even before laying the next row, after each connection of the two planks, you need to connect a piece of the plank at their junction, as it were, of the next row, wobble a little to level the horizontal of the connection. And so repeat with each seam. The second row must first be fixed to each other, then check the joints with a piece of plank, then connect to the first row.

From the planks located near the walls, you need to saw off a groove or spike (depending on which side the wall is from the plank) so that the indent from the walls is uniform. This must be taken into account even when measuring for cutting. Sawing, by the way, is done with a jigsaw.

Deck laying can also be done diagonally. It can be positioned at an angle of 45 degrees, or it can be diagonally positioned from one corner of the room to another. In any case, you need to draw a laying line that will start from one corner of the room.

The first row of parquet is laid along the line, starting with sawing off the corner at the first plank. When the first row is laid, align the joints with a piece of plank. Then we lay the subsequent rows with a distance between the joints of the rows of about 50 cm (if the boards are long) or half the plank (if short).

Herringbone

For herringbone laying, the strips should have a tenon on 2 corner sides and a groove on 2 others. Laying is carried out in such a way that the joints are directed in one direction.

The planks can be installed at a 45-degree angle to all walls, or at 90-degree right angles to the walls (steps).

The laying technology begins with the lighthouse "herringbone" - the first two laid rows. They set a straight line for laying the rest of the rows, so the lighthouse herringbone needs to be perfectly aligned. To do this, you need to either draw or pull a line between the nails, relative to which the "herringbone" will be equal.

It is better to put the “Christmas tree” on glue. By the way, if you put it on glue, parquet planks do not have to have “thorn-groove” locks - you can do without them, it is still attached to the glue.

Squares and braids (mosaic)

The easiest way is to lay the parquet flooring with wicker in the form of squares (if, of course, the dimensions of the planks allow them to be adjusted to such a shape) and rectangular options. The laying principle is very simple: join the first square of the planks, lay it out; join the second square of the planks and lay it out perpendicular to the first. And so you alternate the perpendicular squares. Every second row shifts the squares by one to get a checkerboard effect.

This is a standard technology, but you can also lay out a mosaic, alternating, for example, the circle of the planks in one direction, and inside the circle in the perpendicular direction, and so move towards the center. You can just spread it out in strips, you can use crosses, you can use large cubes ... There are a lot of options.

Laying the planks with braids or squares begins with a lighthouse row, which is ideally aligned.

Also, braided mosaic squares and rectangles can be positioned at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls (rhombuses). But for this, as well as for the "herringbone", you will have to saw a lot of parquet boards, so buy material with a margin.

To lay block parquet using the Sheremetyevskaya Zvezda technology, it must be made of two types of shapes: simple rectangular and oblique diamond-shaped. The result of the mosaic, made using this technology, pleasantly pleases the eye with possible combinations of geometric shapes and the play of texture and color.

In order not to get confused, "Sheremetyevskaya Zvezda" should be laid according to the scheme.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding

After the parquet has been laid, it must be sanded. > Previously, sanding was called scraping because it used a cycle. But the cycle can deform the parquet too much. Therefore, special parquet grinders are used. They work like sandpaper - they rub the surface for a single level, so that all the joints of the planks are on a single horizon. There are different grinders with different grinding power attachments.

But a sander is a rather bulky piece of equipment and you can't grind corners with it. For this, a sanding boot is used - a hand sander for processing corners and other places that are difficult to reach for a large sander (for example, a place under a heating radiator).

It is better to grind the parquet with your own hands 2 times:

First, sanding takes place with a rigid attachment to remove all irregularities.
Then the nozzle is changed to a less rigid one and polishes the parquet to a pleasant smoothness.

If, after laying the parquet, other construction or repair work is carried out indoors, then you need to wait until they finish and only then proceed to sanding and subsequent varnishing.

In this article I will tell you in detail how the parquet is laid in the most common ways today. This will allow beginners to perform high-quality installation of such a floor without the help of specialists.

Installation

There are quite a few ways to lay parquet, however, in any case, the installation procedure is as follows:

Preparation of the base

The main requirement for the base is its even surface..

If the floor is uneven, before laying the parquet, it must be leveled in one of the following ways:

pouring the screed - this method should be used if the floor is concrete and has serious irregularities;

pouring a self-leveling mixture - this method is suitable for leveling a concrete base with small differences, as well as for old concrete screeds;

using plywood sheets or OSB boards - this option is the most versatile, because it is suitable for leveling both concrete and wooden bases. As a rule, plywood sheets are laid on logs or special adjustable racks. If the base is relatively flat, the sheets can be glued to it, as shown in the photo above.

You can learn more about leveling the floor in all these ways from other articles on our portal.

If the parquet is to be glued to the floor, then in addition to leveling, the base must also be treated with a primer. The composition should be applied in a thin layer with a paint roller. For best effect, prime two times.

Since parquet is very sensitive to moisture, you can start laying it only after all wet work in the room has been completed. In this case, the moisture content of the floor should not exceed 5 percent, and the moisture content of the walls 6 percent. Room humidity should be 35-60 percent.

Laying parquet boards without (or in another way, floating) resembles the installation of a laminate.

This work is quite simple and fast, the only thing you need to follow is a certain sequence:

the parquet board must be folded in the room in which it is planned to cover the floor with it, and left for several days. This will allow the material to "adapt" to the indoor microclimate;

then the floor must be covered with a subfloor. For these purposes, polyethylene foam, cork or other suitable material can be used.
If the humidity of the floor is high, for example, the apartment is located on the first floor, it is imperative to install waterproofing under the substrate;

start from the corner, keeping in mind that the board should be in the direction of the light coming from the window. At the same time, step back from the walls 1-1.5 cm.
To maintain this gap, pegs should be placed between the board and the wall. Subsequently, the gap will be hidden;
we connect the next board to the castle with the previous one. To do this, the thorn of one panel should be inserted into the groove of the other at a slight angle, as seen in the photo above. To ensure a tight connection, the board should be hit with a hammer through a block of wood.;
in this way, the entire first row fits. The last board in the row is cut in length so that the necessary gap is formed between it and the wall;

start laying the second row with the remaining trimming of the parquet board. Lock it with the plank of the first row. For a snug fit, hit it with a hammer through the block;
according to this principle, the entire floor is covered with a parquet board. The only thing is that for laying the last row, the board should be cut in width;
at the end of the work, you need to remove the pegs and install the skirting boards.

Before laying the boards in a floating way, it is advisable to measure how many of them will fit across the width of the room. This will allow you to correct their position, decreasing or increasing the gap within reasonable limits. In some cases, it makes sense to trim the first and last rows to the width so that the flooring looks symmetrical.

This completes the installation. Since the parquet boards are close to each other and are varnished, further finishing of this flooring is not required.

We lay the parquet board without glue

The technology of laying boards on glue resembles "floating installation", however, there are several nuances of its own:

the boards are laid directly on the floor without a backing. If it is necessary to waterproof a concrete floor, a screed should be poured over the waterproofing or plywood sheets should be laid;
before laying the board, glue is applied to the floor and then leveled with a notched trowel;

after installation, the board must be evenly pressed to the floor. Additionally, the boards can be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are installed in a recessed position.

Many beginners are interested in what is better to "plant" the parquet floor? In fact, you don't need to invent anything, since there is a special parquet glue. It does an excellent job with the task, regardless of which base the boards are glued to - concrete or plywood.

The rest of the work is carried out in the same way as when installing the coating in a floating way.

We lay the parquet with a herringbone

The peculiarity of laying block parquet is that the dies are much smaller. On the one hand, this allows you to lay out various patterns on the floor, but on the other hand, it complicates the work.

If you decide to lay out a complex drawing from the dice, it is advisable to first depict it on paper. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the exact dimensions of the dice and the room. This will simplify further work and allow you to correct its position.

As an example, consider how the block parquet is laid in the simplest and at the same time common way - a herringbone pattern:

first of all, you need to find the center of the room. To do this, beat off the diagonals on the floor. The point of their intersection will be the center of the room;
then you need to pull the thread along the room so that it crosses the center. The thread should be located strictly parallel to the walls;

then you need to connect two strips at an angle of 90 degrees;
apply glue to an area in the center of the room and smooth it out with a notched trowel;
now you need to lay the part correctly - turn it 45 degrees relative to the thread. As a result, the top of the corner and the inner corner must be located exactly under the thread.
In this position, press the part to the floor so that the glue comes out;
then connect the second two parts of the Christmas tree, but place the dies the other way around, i.e. if in the first part the end of the left die was connected to the edge of the right die, now the end of the right die must be connected to the edge of the left die. The photo below clearly shows how the dies fit together;

according to this principle, lay the "herringbone" from one wall to another. In the process of laying, pay attention to the position of the row so that it does not mix to the side. A stretched thread will help to control it;
near the walls, the dies need to be cut at 45 degrees;
then the parquet is laid to the left and right of the resulting herringbone. Just apply the glue to the floor and bond the dies tightly together.

After installing the block parquet, all work must be stopped for at least a week until the glue has completely hardened.

Finishing

Upon completion of the parquet laying work, you can proceed to its grinding and further finishing. This will make the surface perfectly flat and smooth, as well as protect the tree from negative environmental influences.

It must be said that sanding is especially necessary in cases where the parquet has no grooves, i.e. dies are not connected to the lock.

Parquet finishing instructions look like this:

work begins with the so-called rough sanding with coarse abrasive. To do this, you can use a grinder or a special grinder. At this stage, the most serious irregularities are removed;
then it is advisable to putty the joints of the dice with wood putty. To do this, apply the putty to the floor surface, and then "stretch" it with a spatula. As a result, only the seams between the dies will be filled;

after the putty hardens, you need to finish sanding the wooden floor using sandpaper with a fine abrasive;
then the surface must be cleaned of dust. To do this, you can use a damp cloth or vacuum cleaner;
now the floor must be covered with a wood primer. Use a paint roller to work with soil.
Let me remind you that the primer is applied in two layers. Moreover, it is possible to cover the surface with the top layer of the primer only after the bottom layer has dried;

the final stage is the application of varnish. For these purposes, it is best to use a special parquet varnish.
Its price starts from 150-200 rubles per liter, however, if you want the coating to last as long as possible, use a more expensive varnish. For example, a 10L bucket of Feidal varnish costs about 9,000 rubles.

Apply the varnish to the surface with a paint roller, trying to spread it in an even thin layer. After the surface has completely dried, a second layer is applied.

In total, from three to seven layers can be applied to the parquet. The more varnish, the deeper the drawing appears. The only thing, after applying each coat, wait until it dries completely.

Instead of varnish, wax or special oil-based impregnations can also be used.

During the drying of the varnish, it is necessary to exclude a draft in the room. Therefore, close all windows and doors. If there is an air conditioner, it must be turned off.

Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to do the installation of parquet with your own hands.

Conclusion

Laying parquet in any of the described ways is a fairly simple and even exciting job. The only thing, in order not to spoil the material and not to waste time, is necessary to correctly complete the preparatory work, which I described above.

You can visually familiarize yourself with the installation of parquet from the video in this article. If you have any questions on this topic, please contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.