Folded a simple brick oven with a stove. Mini brick furnaces at the cottage or in a small house. Little heating and cooking stove

Despite the fact that in very many today are those or other heating systems, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and folk crafts are being developed by all new furnace models, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, the furnace heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it will be able to rescue the owners in different situations. For example, in the fall or in the spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to include autonomous heating, the drowning oven will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them from excessive humidity. The oven will help maintain the optimally favorable atmosphere and the temperature balance, comfortable for a person.

Therefore, a search query about how to fold the oven with your own hands the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not come down from the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who do not have the experience of the liver, show the desire to try their strength in this craft. If it is decided to install the furnace in the house with its own forces, then beginners it is recommended to choose a simple version of this facility with an understandable order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, it is designed for heating. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what I would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick stoves

There are several main types of furnaces - some of them perform only one main task - this is heated at home, others are used only for cooking, and the third includes several functions in their "set of features". Therefore, in order to decide on the desired model, you need to know what is each of the species.

• The construction is capable of not only to warm one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil the water. If the model is equipped with a brass cabinet and drying niche, then the possibility of bake bread appears, and peel vegetables and fruits for the winter.

The heating and cooking furnace is often embedded in the wall or itself performs the role of the wall - for this it is rotated by a slab and a firebox in the direction of the kitchen, and the back wall in the residential area of \u200b\u200bthe house. You can solve two problems immediately - the heating of the premises and the possibility of cooking in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, the furnace will work not only as a functional structure, but it will become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating variety of furnaces is designed only for the heating of the rooms at home. Some models have not only a fiber chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the furnace can function in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are involved both simultaneously. Most often, the heating stoves are embedded in the wall between the rooms or are installed in the middle of one large hall, separating it into zones.

Such a building is being built for both the main heating of the house and as an additional, which is used in the spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. The heating furnaces are usually established when the kitchen has already implemented its ability to prepare food, or in a large total area of \u200b\u200bthe house, where several furnaces perform various functions.

In the country area in a small house, it is better to establish a multifunctional structure that can help immediately in several situations.

• The cooking furnace is erected in the kitchen, and its design is designed for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it and heating capabilities, since its entire body, the rear wall and the cast iron stove are well warmed, giving heat and room.

The main function of this stove - cooking

The cooking furnace is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in the country or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact, but functional unit, one can exclude the risk to frozen or remain without dinner and hot tea, even if the electro- and gas supply is turned off.

A lot of different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be completely miniature, and occupy a large area. Therefore, stopping at one of the models before stocking materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw it the base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to install it. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much the free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the furnace?

So that the furnace worked effectively and maximally gave heat into the premises of the house, and was also a fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this moment if the furnace is embedded in the finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling overlap beams, and accidentally do not stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

The furnace brick structure can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. What place it is better to choose - will be considered further.

• To get the maximum effect from the furnace, you should not install it near the outer wall of the building, as it will cool quickly and can hardly be able to heat more than one room.
• Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or shifting it from it in one or the other side. This location is selected if the room is required to divide into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure can have a different decorative finish, made in the style corresponding to the design of a particular area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
• Quite often, the furnace is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the heat generated as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, the ceiling and the attic overlap at the location of the passage
• When choosing a place of installation, it is necessary to envisage that each of the sides of the foundation under the furnace should be 100 ÷ 150 mm more than the base of the furnace itself.
• To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the furnace, it is recommended to always select the model to which the order scheme is applied.

By choosing and place for its installation, you can acquire all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the furnace model, and masonry tools are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work it will be necessary to prepare a very "solid" set of tools.

From the tools for masonry brick and fill the foundation, you will need:

• Rule - This tool is used to align the surface of the basement with concumen.
• Kirk's hammer is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
• Veel is a wooden blade, which is used for rubbing the clay and lime solution.
• The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and removing the dried, speaking outside the masonry of the solution.
• Makeup made of urine is intended to clean the internal furnace channels from sand and solution in them.
• The lead drain is needed for marking in the event that the furnace is separated by tiles.
• The construction level is necessary to control the levels of rows and the surface of the walls.
• The diaper is the rod applied for marking.
• The plumb is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• Building corner with a ruler to verify the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used to bend and bite the wire for fixing the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the seams of masonry.
• Raspil - This tool is used to remove the influx and wrecking lumps in the dried masonry.
• The chisel is used to split the brick and the parsing of old masonry.
• The rubber hammer is necessary for the alignment of the brick-labeled solution.
• (Trusks) of different sizes are used to apply a solution when laying bricks and removing the mixture speaking from seams.
• Fishing - a tool for aligning the solution in the seams of masonry. It is used if the laying is produced "under the extection", without further lining.
• Manual tamping will be required to seal the soil and layers of frustration in the pit for the foundation.
• Capacities for kneading the solution and pure water.
• Sieve with a metal mesh for sand sifting.

• Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device has sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the wizard, but also for the installation of a container filled with a solution.

Foundation arrangement for brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually preparing together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, and even more so - to be combined into a single design. New foundations, as a rule, give a shrinkage that can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will pull the damage to the other. That is why they should be installed necessarily separately from each other.

In the event of an end of the oven in the already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the furnace will be installed, the floorboards will have to be removed, drinking the hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected furnace model is not too massive, then the design can be erected on it, the material for waterproofing is pre-installed.

The foundation should be in the form of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its parties is made greater than the furnace at 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the wooden house, it makes the markup on which the boards will be peeling.
• Then in the soil of the sample in the form of the future foundation rotates, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is rambling, and its walls are lined with a polyethylene film or rubberoid.

• Then, a sand pillow is 100 ÷ 150 mm thick on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted with a manual tamper.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is falling asleep rubbing, which, too, if possible, is rambling. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Next, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or rubberoid remain inside it, and then fixed on the walls using a stapler and brackets. This waterproof material will keep the solution flooded into the formwork, not giving to leave it moisture, which will give the plate the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of "clean" floor, that is, the finished base will need to put two rows of bricks so that it rises to the floor with the floor.
• Some wizards in order to save brick, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of such a solution consists also in a simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor coating.
• The next step in the formwork, for its entire height, the reinforcement grille is installed, made of 4 ÷ 6 mm thick with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The bars are associated with a wire twist.
• Further, in the lower part of the formwork, a rough concrete solution, mixed from cement and gravel, can be pouring into a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm in the proportions of 1: 3, or cement, rubble of the middle fraction with the addition of sand in a 1: 2 ratio: 1. But, In principle, a conventional concrete solution from sand and cement can be used.
• If the coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for its setting, the thinly mixed solution is laid on top.
• The flooded is aligned with the rule on the upper facets of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to put and drown on 15 ÷ 20 mm into the solution of the reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is resurrected again, and, if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork, on top of the grid.
• Further, the foundation leaves to stick and recruit strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layer of the flooded solution. So that concrete is more durable, recommended daily during the first week, starting from the second day, spray it with water.
• From the top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing, consisting of two or three rubber carriad sheets, which are stacked by one to another.

• To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make marking on the waterproofing material, denoting the location of the base of the furnace. Due to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to assemble the first row of bricks and observe the solidity of the parties and the corners.

After these preparatory work, you can go to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced masters, starting the laying unfamiliar to this design, first produce it dry, that is, without a solution. This process helps to figure out the intra channels of the furnace and do not make mistakes during the main masonry. Every majority rises dryly, each of the rows should be posted in accordance with the furnace applied to the model.

Performing dry masonry, it is necessary to observe the thickness of horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to withstand the same throughout the masonry, you can use 5 mm thick racks. Of course, the vertical seams will be difficult to measure with small segments of the ridges when drunk dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, the rails need to be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the design, you can see the real height of the furnace.

As an example of using the RESEK, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is performed under the extection, and will not be further separated by additional decorative materials.

Mastering dry, it is important to understand the channel configuration through which the smoke will go from the furnace, and climb the pipe. If, when laying out this passage, an error will be made, you will have to shift a part or even the entire design of the furnace, as the reverse thrust can be formed, and the room smoke will go.

Having lifted the oven dryly before the laying of the chimney pipe, the design disassemble. Moreover, if the ranks used not only as well, but also their small fragments, then when disassembling, each of the rows can be folded in a separate stack, putting a number of rows on one of the bricks. Sometimes, additionally, the brick number is also affixed in each of the ranks. Such a system will accelerate the work, since all the material will be fitted and decomposed in the right order, and will remain only to soak it alternately and put into the ranks of the furnace, but already per solution.

Performing basic masonry, two rails are installed on the edges of the previous series, between which the solution of 60 ÷ 70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is put on it, aligns and embarrassment until it is stored in the rail. It is necessary to have such calibration devices into three rows, since it is possible to pull it out of the seam only after grapping the solution. So, laying out three rows, the rails pull out of the lowest seam, clean and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no confidence that the vertical seams are the same thickness, for them you can also prepare a short rail, which will be rearranged in the next seam immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.

After pulling out the calibration peeks from the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with a solution, which is cleaned by a trowel, and then put in order using the bunch.

Processing of seams "under the extection"

If the calibration rails laid out of both edges of the brick, then the inner side of the wall will also leave the recesses between the seams. They are also needed to carefully close, since the seams should be hermetic, filled with a solution across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, performing masonry on the solution, check each of the placed rows by the construction level so that the entire design does not occur.

Such simple auxiliary devices, as calibration rails, will help perform the masonry gently with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire furnace surface will look like the design is made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid errors that can lead to the need to rewar throughout work.

Brick stove construction schemes

O. O. Proskurin with Hepiculture and Hall Functions and Drying Chamber

A model developed by the engineer Y. Solkurin can be called one of the simplest structures of the heating and cooking furnaces, which even a novice master can be mastered. Despite the compact sizes of the structure, the stove is able to fulfill all the functions necessary for a small home, since it is equipped with a hob and a chamber for drying, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water tank.

Such a furnace is able to warm one or two rooms with a total area of \u200b\u200b17 ÷ 20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms at home. At the same time, it is definitely necessary to orient in such a way that the design is deployed to the stove toward the kitchen room.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows for the warm season to use only the hob, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full-fledged protostka is 1700 kcal / h.

The following materials will be required to build this heating structure:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Sizes of elements (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe masonry)	281 ÷ 285.	250 × 120 × 65
Chamotte brick refractory brand sh-8	82 ÷ 85.	250 × 120 × 65
Opening door	1	210 × 250.
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140 × 140.
Door for confused	1	140 × 250.
Summer stroke valve for chimney	1	130 × 130.
Flashing	1	130 × 130.
Hob	1	130 × 130.
Colonnik	1	200 × 300.
Single-mounted cooking panel	1	410 × 340.
Steel band	1	40 × 260 × 5
	1	40 × 350 × 5
	1	40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner	1	40 × 40 × 635
	3	40 × 40 × 510
	4	40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron	1	380 × 310
Foremost metal sheet	1	500 × 700.

To fill the foundation it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, rubberoid, reinforcement rod or steel wire with a thickness of 5 ÷ 6 mm. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber on the hot water tank, you will have to purchase or make it.

So that work has passed successfully, before it began, it is strongly recommended to learn my friend very carefully, and in the process of masonry to keep this scheme is always at hand.

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several cuts. Here you can clearly consider how the chimney channels pass inside the design, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney pipe.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration submitted on the scheme. The row should be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its proper masonry. The series consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the form of the ash bar is laid (a subpend chamber) and the bottom part of the two channels that will be vertically. Laying the row, leave the openings to install the door of the pensive and the clean cameras. On the same row they are installed. The row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	In the cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided in which the harvested segments of the wire are inserted. Further, their ends twist together and fit into the seams between the side walls. To make the door not shifted from the installation site until its fully fixation, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. It raises the walls of the pensive and the cleft chamber, and in the seams between the rows of bricks, the ends of the wire are fixed, with which the doors are fixed. For the masonry of the row, there will be 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The camera of vertical channels is divided into two, as they will be laid out separately. Channel cross-section over their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, this row is overlapping the installed door. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The laying of the fifth row is made by refractory chamotted brick, as it is the formation of the lower part of the furnace. In bricks that determine the place of laying a grate grid, from the inner of their edge, is made at right angles. The cutout size should be approximately 10 × 10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are stacked above the infideling chamber. For the masonry of the row, 16 chamotte bricks will be required.
	After that, in the fifth row in the prepared deepening in bricks, a grate is established. It is sometimes mounted on a clay solution, but often - completely without a solution. In the latter case, the gaps between the grid and the brick, which should be about 3 ÷ 5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. The laying is carried out only with chamotte brick. The series consists of 12 chamotte bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, the coil door is mounted, which, as well as confusing, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, the coil door before installation is equipped with not only wire mounts, but also wrapped around the perimeter asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a heat gap, which will allow expanding the metal during its strong heating.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to a co-order scheme. During their laying, the walls of the furnace continue to rise and the vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the ranks goes firstwarding.
	When laying a ninth row, the door of the furnace chamber overlaps. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, with bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the heat chamber are cut under the same angle of 30˚. These sections will serve as a peculiar stand for the middle brick cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should be perfectly signed between two extreme bricks. 12 chammatory bricks will be required to the row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with an extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace went to this hole. In order to provide the smoothness of the stroke of hot air, on the middle brick, separating the flue hole and the closed channel, the cutting corner is made. For this row, 11 chamotte bricks will be required.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry, going around the heat chamber, is distinguished by the fact that it uses bricks with a cut-out bricks at 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed to lay the cooking panel. For masonry will need 11 chamotte bricks.
	After the 11th row is posted, the step on the bricks will be supplied with asbestos stripes or layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (under the condition of the thickness of the cooking panel in 5 mm). These gaskets will serve as a pillow and a thermal gap for the hob. Then, a cooking panel is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the angular part of the masonry is strengthened with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, the masonry will be made only with red bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and again closes the jumper open earlier vertical channel. For the masonry of this series you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel is formed a place to install a gate, designed to switch the furnace modes to a winter or summer course. To do this, cutches are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed on the clay-sandy solution. The row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	The 14th ÷ 18th row - for each of them it will take 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber overlaps three steel corners, which form the basis for the masonry of the following rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is set at a distance from it in 250 mm (the size of the brick), and the third corner of the back side is pressed to the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it, 12 bricks overlap the cooking chamber, but the hill of the hood of the steam is formed above it, in which the valve will be installed. To install this item in the edges of bricks installed on three sides, cuts are made, and from the external brick is removed by layer, making it thick less. Further on the prepared platform on the clay solution fixes the valve.
	The 20th row is postponed according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is overlapped, and channel holes are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is shy for a smooth flow of heated air. For a number it will take 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and a hole for the vapor chamber pair is combined into the overall space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is framed. Moreover, the angular inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth care of steam into the chimney pipe. For masonry you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row it is overlapping the resulting space with steel stripes, which will provide the basis for the installation of the metal plate and the masonry of the following rows.
	The next step, which is performed on the same row is the installation of a plate of roofing iron. With the help of it, a chimney hole is formed, located in the opposite side from the window to exit the steam from the hob.
	On the 22nd row of brick masonry, a metal plate is overlapped. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only channel holes remain open. Then, from the outside of the furnace, a metal corner is installed, which will strengthen the front of the bottom of the drying chamber. It will take 15 bricks on the laying of a row.
	The 23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its rear wall makes out of the brick installed side - it will separate the camera from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels are formed, as well as the drying chamber.
	The 25th row - the work continues according to the scheme, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, vertical channels are prepared for combining into one space, so for the direction of smoke in the desired direction of bricks in the vertical channels are cut under a small angle. For laying a number, 11 bricks will be required.
	On the 27th row, with a masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a clear door is installed on this general camera. The rear wall of the drying chamber rises another brick, which is installed on the side. The series consists of 11 bricks.
	On a 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, a masonry is performed according to a scheme similar to 27 nearby. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, all practically the area overlaps with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. It is left open only a hole above the drying chamber, where the valve will be installed in sections made on bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut, making less than its thickness. In the arrangement of the "nest" on the clay solution is installed valve. The series consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely overlaps the surface of the furnace. The exception is only the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half the brick.
	For 31 ÷ 32rd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If it is decided to produce independently, then work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with full responsibility and maximum accuracy. Subject to all the recommendations and the provided scheme-co-order, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of masonry a miniature brick furnace for a country house.

Video: Compact brick oven for small kitchen

Brick furnaces for home on firewood in some situations are a necessity, since they may be the only opportunity to drop the living building due to the lack of gas supply and in order to save electricity. However, very often the furnaces are installed additionally, as it is capable not only to protect the family budget from unnecessary spending, but also to make a comfort in the house, providing its special healing warmth.

Despite the emergence of various modern types of heating, brick ovens remain in demand and today. This moves and engineers and folk craftsmen do not stop working on new designs, due to which all the more advanced, functional and heat-intensive heating structures appear.

Models of brick stoves are quite a lot, and it is not necessary to choose from them. But at the same time it is necessary to take into account several important conditions that are mandatory for the effective and safe work of this home assistant - a real stove.

Variety of furnaces furnaces

Brick furnaces in its functionality can be divided into three main categories: on cooking, heating and cooking and heating structures, for example,. In addition to them, there are multifunctional options that include a fireplace, water-heating capacity and even a water circuit - for heating area, greater in size than it is possible to heat only the constructions. Therefore, if the decision is made to install a brick furnace in the house, first of all you need to decide on the choice of model.

• The cooking option is usually selected for installation in country conditions, if the owners live there only in the summer season. Sometimes such a furnace is installed in a private house in addition to gas or electric heating - in order to save more expensive compared to fuel fuel. The cooking furnace is usually equipped with a cooking panel, a brass cabinet, and sometimes a water tank. It usually has quite compact sizes, but still capable of heating the room in which it is installed. It should be noted that this option will not be superfluous in any house, especially since this building itself does not take much space.

Heating-cooking furnace is a whole multifunctional complex.

• Heating and cooking furnace is a complex that may include several necessary for everyday use of functions - here include cooking stove, oven, water heating tank, niches for drying plant products, laying, fireplace, and sometimes water circuit. Such a design will help in any situations, so it is most often set in cases where there is no other heating in the house. However, often from such furnaces are not in a hurry to refuse if there is heating in the gas boiler house.

• The heating furnace is intended only for heating at home or bathrooms. The design does not have a cooking panel and a brass cabinet, but a water tank can be built into and a fireplace function is present. Such a furnace is able to warm two or even three small rooms, with its proper embedding in the walls between the premises.

In addition to functional purposes, it is necessary to determine the shape and size of the furnace. This criterion will depend on the planning of the house and square, which can be highlighted for its installation. It is also necessary to take into account the heat capacity of the structure, that is, the indicator on which it depends on what area the selected stove is capable of driving.

So, large ovens having thick walls are able to spread heat into a large area, but the duration of their fireboxes to achieve heating is about 1.5 ÷ 2 hours. The same, small-sized ovens are heated and give heat much faster, approximately for 35 ÷ 40 minutes. Moreover, in order for them to heat up a smaller amount of fuel, which means they are more economical. Therefore, choosing a model, it is necessary to know its power characteristics and what the area they are calculated.

You may be interested in information about what is

Choosing a place to install a brick oven

The furnace can be installed in different places of the room, but its most optimal location will be built into the walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, with a small area of \u200b\u200bthe house, you can do with one heating structure if the heat transfer surface will be proportional to the size of the premises in which they exit.

The place selected for construction must be well to measure and take into account some moments:

• The height of the room ceiling is important, since the brick oven must fit well into the space at its height.
• The foundation for the furnace should be more of its base at 110 ÷ 120 mm, and for it, it is also necessary to provide a suitable site.
• The chimney pipe with its layout up should not stumble upon the beams of overlapping and on the rafting legs of the roofing design.

Basic materials and components for masonry of a brick oven

In addition to bricks and a masonry solution, other materials and elements will also be required to build the furnace. Their nomenclature, quantity and dimensions will depend on the selected model of the heating structure.

So, for a brick furnace, the following cast-iron components may be required:

1 - the door of the ash bar (pissed);

2 - heat door;

3 - doors for installation on cleaning channels;

4 - catch in the chimney channel;

5 - konforochny rings installed on the hob openings;

6 - cooking stove;

7 - grate grille.

In addition to cast iron, you will need to prepare some steel parts or assemblies that are included in the furnace design. It can be:

1. Oven.
2. Water Tank.
3. Metal stripes of different lengths and widths.
4. Metal corner, most often having 50 × 50 mm dimensions.
5. Anneaned steel wire with a diameter of 2 ÷ 3 mm.
6. Steel sheet for flooring before furnace.
7. Roofing iron - sometimes required for overlapping the cooking chamber.

For the masonry itself, materials will be required to be selected in accordance with the laying and list scheme (table), usually applied to it:

1. Red brick.
2. Chamotted brick.
3. Components for clay solution - sand and clay, or ready-made heat-resistant, sold in specialized stores.
4. Materials for the foundation - they can be different: it is crushed stone, broken brick, sand and cement, cheek stone, formwork boards, refinery for waterproofing.
5. Asbestos sheet and cord.

Marking and arrangement of the foundation

The work on the furnace laying is impossible to begin if a reliable foundation is not created for this construction, since the design will be very massive.

• Initially there is a markup of the place where the basis for the oven is the foundation. It should be borne in mind that the chimney pipe with the passage through the attic overlap should be at a distance of at least 120 ÷ 150 mm from wooden beams.

To accurately determine the place where the floorboards will be repaired under the foundation device, a plumb that is fixed on the ceiling, at the desired distance from the ceiling beam. After the plumb stops, a mark is made on the floor, one of the corners of the furnace. Also, points, the remaining angular parts are noted, and then the resulting plan is evaporated with a building level and a corner. Further, you should draw on the floor of the future foundation (as already mentioned, it should be wider than a minimum of a minimum of 100 - 150 mm in each direction). According to the received markup, the floor boards will be made - so as to reach the soil.

Here you need to immediately note that the foundation of the furnace and at home should not be common. Moreover, they should not be connected. The shrinkage of the base of the furnace and the house is different, and it may turn out that with the bound basis, one building will pull the other.

• Next, floors are cut and dismantled and dismantled, and in the exposed soil rotate a depth of at least 500 mm from the surface of the Earth.
• The foundation can be equipped with boob stone or brick. If the base is equipped from the boob stone, then the installation of the formwork in the pit is not required. It is enough to lay a stone peeled with dirt with layers, each of which is poured by concrete solution. It is very important to ensure that the masonry stones do not remain unencided voids.

• Laying over the soil continues in a formwork made in the form of a box, the boards of which should be tightly adjacent to each other. In order for the solution evenly, the liquid did not absorb on the wood of the formwork, it is recommended to close it with dense polyethylene, which is fixed with brackets on the boards.
• The foundation must be below the level of pure floor by 140 mm.
• The surface of the butt-cement base is aligned for the next stage of work.
• Further, two rows of brick masonry are mounted on a flat and dried surface, and after the solution is dry, it is littered into two layers of rubberoid, which performs the role of waterproofing.

It is quite possible and an option with a solid fill of the foundation plate in the formwork, with the installation of a steel reinforcing design. True, the consumption of a concrete solution will in this case will be much higher.

Preparation of bricks for masonry work

As you know, the main material for masonry furnace is the red brick of normal firing. Well, the laid out of the walls and the bottom of the furnace is carried out from the refractory chamotte material. You can, of course, use and selective red brick for the furnace chamber, but it is necessary to consider that its service life is much lower than refractory.

First of all, the acquired brick needs to carefully go through and discard one that has significant cracks and chips. If the masonry is used brick, used, then it needs to be cleaned from soot and an old solution.

The prepared red brick is soaked in water at least 12 ÷ 14 hours. Chamoten needed before use only rinse with water in order to remove dust.

The preparation process includes the splitting of the bricks on the part, since with the masonry of the furnace there are not only whole bricks, but also halves, ¾ - three-way, ¼-rigids and even sometimes smaller fragments. To make it easier to determine the parts of the brick on the size, the hammer-dying knob is measured and notches are made, corresponding to the size of halves, ¼ or ¾ of its parts.

To get the fragmentary details you need for masonry, the brick is split or shy. The shy is made in the event that it is necessary to have a brick cut at an angle.

For the tesse, bricks are taken that do not have cracks. To do everything right, you need to take a brick left and holding it on the weight, on his ribs, picking the site to be placed.

Marking is applied at an angle along the marked line. Then the corners are frozen on the side sides of the brick. The dried surfaces will turn out to be rough, and to bring them to a flat smooth state, they are squeezed with bricks.

To split the brick onto the smooth parts (this process is called a jacket), you need to take a quality brick without cracks. The process of the attachments is also carried out on weight.

If the brick needs to be divided into pressure, it is also taken into the left hand, and the part that needs to be separated is measured. Then, on the spoonful side of the brick, a shallow groove makes itself on the marked line. After that, the brick turns over with a furrowing down, and a sharp blow of the hammer in the area of \u200b\u200bthe intended line is applied.

Brick splitting techniques - 2

If, from whole bricks, it is necessary to separate a smaller than half, part, then the groove is done at the place of the future split from all sides of the brick. It splits in this case, a strong blow to the furrow with one of the spoonful sides. If necessary, it is possible to split and the angular part.

If you need to split the brick not across, but along, then the markup is carried out on the side, narrow side, and the groove is made more deeply, as it splits much harder and can be reassigned.

If you need to round the corners of the brick, you will need a special tool - it can be a machine or a grinder with a circle around the stone.

Preparation of masonry solution

A very important stage of work can be called the preparation of a clay solution, which is used when laying the main solid of the furnace. It is necessary to know that for the construction of a chimney tube or the foundation arrangement, a solution of clay is not suitable. For this purpose, concrete mixtures are used more often or several parts of cement are added to the clay solution.

The masonry chimney should not exceed 8 mm in thickness, otherwise cracks will appear on it, and oxygen can penetrate inside the design, which will reduce the efficiency of the furnace. In addition, during the firebox to the room, carbon monoxide may be seized, which is extremely dangerous to health and even human life. Therefore, the solution should be prepared from high-quality clay and sainted fine sand with a fraction of sandstone not more than 1 mm. The solution must be homogeneous, without lumps and extraneous enclosures.

Clay solutions are divided into skinny, normal and fat. This is their quality directly dependent on the correct clay.

• Skinny solutions are not plastic, fragile and strongly crumble.
• Normal mixtures have the right proportions and consist of medium fatty clay and sainted sand. They are moderately plastic, practically not cracking after a complete burden, do not give a strong shrinkage and do not change their volume. Therefore, they will be the most suitable option for oven masonry.
• Fat solutions are plastic, but have the property cracking when drying. But this composition of the mixture can be corrected, "tapping" by adding sand.

The correct density of the clay solution is no less important than the plasticity. Therefore, according to the consistency, the masonry mixture should resemble the medium thickness of the dough, and when it is compressed between two wet bricks, it is easy to squeeze themselves under their severity.

Before mixing the solution, it is necessary to check the quality of clay. The process of checking the finished solution can be carried out in three ways, but first it needs to be made using the method of selection of ingredients - clay and sand by proportions.

It is usually prepared by several solution options in small quantities. In each of the solutions, different proportions are envisaged:

• Clean clay without adding sand.
• Clay 90%, sand 10%.
• Clay 75%, sand 25%.
• Clay 25%, sand 75%.

The solutions are well mixed with the addition of water to the consistency of a thick dough that does not stick to the hands. Next, you can proceed to its tests.

BUT. From each solution variant, balls with a diameter of 35 ÷ 40 mm and a plate with a thickness of 15 ÷ 25 mm are made. All these products leave to dry at room temperature for 7 ÷ 9 days.

After this time, you need to check. Those products that gave less cracks, and the balls thrown from a height of 1000 mm to the floor were not broken, have the necessary proportions for furnace masonry.

It is possible to squeeze a solution stronger in the balls, to squeeze between two wooden plates to a thickness of 7 mm and leave to dry at room temperature. It is selected that solution that will give less cracks.

B. Another option of tests that do not require long-lasting is to be tested. To do this, flagellas with different proportions are made of harvesters with a thickness of 10 ÷ 15 mm and a length of 120 ÷ 170 mm. Then the flashers are trying to stretch. That mixture is suitable, the harness of which will break, stretching at the break point to the thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm.

IN. The third option may be rolling the finished solutions in the harness and turning it around a round wooden stick with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The solution from which the harness is made, which gave less cracks during drying and remains the whole, is perfect for masonry work.

By selecting an optimal solution for proportions, it must be properly kneaded.

• The clay is soaked on one - two days, and then in a wet state, it is wiping through a sieve made of metal mesh with cells at 3 ÷ 3.5 mm.
• Sand sieves.
• Next, the desired amount of clay and sand is measured, according to the experimental experimental proportions, and then thoroughly mixed up to a homogeneous state.

Properly made solution does not lose its adhesion qualities unlimited time. If it happened to dry out, it is only worth adding fluid to it and mix well again.

For masonry chamotte bricks, a special solution is prepared consisting of pure clay and chamotte sand in proportions 1: 1.

Price on a masonry mixture for furnaces

masonry mixture for furnaces

General Recommendations for Masonry Brick Furnace

After the foundation gives the necessary strength, and bricks, mortar, metal and cast iron parts will be prepared, you can move to the markup of the first row and the masonry itself.

• Marking of the first row.

On the waterproofing sheet (ruberoid), wall-insulated with an indentation from its edge, dryly laid out around the perimeter of the bricks of the first row. First, the angular bricks are installed, then the intermediate around the perimeter, the gap of 5 ÷ 6 mm is necessarily left between them, which will be filled with mortar during control. Corners are measured at the construction level and corner. To make sure that the series is laid out exactly, with the help of a roulette, it is diagonal to be diagonal - they must have the same length.

The first row geometry is extremely important for the entire furnace structure, so measurements need to be carried out with the highest possible accuracy. In order not to be knocked out, performing a control masonry, laid out like a row should be flashed with chalk.

• Check horizontal range.

Next, the row is laid out per solution. On the first, the corner brick is applied a thin layer of solution, on the second - thicker. Then, the construction level is installed on two laid bricks, which are pressed on the second brick, thereby achieving their combination in an ideally horizontal plane. In the same way, 3 and 4 bricks are laid out and so on according to the scheme.

• Performing masonry.

In order for the masonry to turn out to be smooth in the corners of the furnace, vertical cords are stretched from the outside, which are attached to the ceiling and floor. If the furnace of the master is erected for the first time, instead of the cords, it is best to install the formwork bars from the ceiling to the floor. They are exhibited by the construction level and securely fix in the title position.

At this stage, a solution of 9 ÷ 10 mm is applied with a layer of 9 ÷ 10 mm to the first laid out a row.

The corner brick is placed on top of it. Then a solution is applied to the end side of the second brick and also rolls. The second brick is stacked on the place prepared for it, pressed, and, if necessary, fell as a hammer. Speed \u200b\u200bbetween the rows, the solution is selected by the trowel. At the same time, it is advisable to carefully clean the bricks immediately so that the solution does not have time to grab.

If there is no confidence that the seams are the same, it is possible to use plastic or wooden slats-calibrators having a thickness equal to the required seam thickness. Such calibration devices are stacked on the finished row, before installing the following. Such regions need to be prepared so much so that they are enough for three rows. Having posted these rows, from the lowest seam of the rails are pulled out and shifted to the most upper - and so to the top of the vertex of the construction.

If the furnace material is not applied on the walls, the seams are neatly processed by a special tool called "extending".

Processing of seams "under the extection"

It is very important to take into account the fact that the next series of oven masonry should begin only after the previous one is completely finished. No "ladder" is not allowed.

The horizontality of each row is necessarily controlled by the construction level.

To the heated air, circulating through the internal channels, did not meet obstacles in the form of a speaking solution, and smoothly slid along the walls from the furnace chamber to the chimney tube, the solution from the inner walls should also be removed. This process can be carried out using a brush from the urine, which rubbed the inconspable solution, if necessary, moistened with water. Such a grout is made at the end of the masonry of every 4 ÷ 5 rows or, if necessary, the installation of the vertical overlap that closes the furnace cavity.

If the outer decoration of the furnace is planned, then there is a plaster solution consisting of clay, lime and sand in proportions 1: 1: 3. For heat resistance to this composition, 0.2 ÷ 0.3 pieces of crushed asbestos are added. True, existing modern sanitary standards do not welcome the use of asbestos in residential premises.

• Ceiling device.

The various overlaps in the design of any furnace is quite a lot, and they all have their own characteristics, depending on the site of their arrangement.

So, when overlapping the fuel chamber door and the inner openings of the furnace, it is desirable to produce without metallic parts.

If a model having an arched overlap of a cooking chamber is selected, the arch is displayed using a special formwork having a semicircular shape. Such a formwork is called "Crew".

The laying of arched archs is made with mandatory dressing for it, and this suggests that the rows in the arch always have an odd amount. At the bottom of the seam arch must be perfectly straight and have a thickness of no more than 5 mm.

The arch is laid out at the bottom of the ass.

• Installation of chicken cast iron and metal elements.

All metal furnace elements are known when heated expands, so thermal gaps that are created using asbestos material should be formed around them. In some cases, asbestos cord is used, in others, the bands of the desired width and length are cut from the whole sheet of this material. Thus, the door of the fiber chamber and the oven ward the cord from asbestos, and the strips are stacked under the cooking plate.

Fastening the metal doors in the seams of masonry occurs with the help of wire twists. On the rear wall of the metal frame of the door, special "ears" are always located, in which the wire is inserted, and then its ends are twisted with each other.

The wire, fixed in the lower "ears", is mixed in the seams of a number on which the door is installed, and the upper twists - between the rows, one of which will be located at one level with the upper part of the door frame, and the second above it.

Before fixing in the seams, the door is set on the construction level or with a plumb.

The confusion and the clean door does not require winding asbestos cord, since they do not heat up to very high temperatures. The gaps between them and brick can be sealed with a clay solution.

If a metal strip should be used for overlapping the heat door, then between it and the frame you must make a gasket from the asbestos strip.

The smoke valve frame is also mounted on the clay solution, but this work should be carried out carefully so that the solution does not get into the grooves of the frame for which the valve should go.

Drying the finished furnace

Upon completion of the work on the construction of the furnace, it is impossible to heat it immediately at full capacity, otherwise all the work will be corrupted. Therefore, you first need to carry out her drying, which is carried out in the following order:

• All doors and valves are opened in the furnace, and in such a state, it is left for a period of 7 to 10 days, depending on the ambient temperature of the air. Excessive moisture from the solution and the bricks themselves in this case will evaporate naturally.

Forced drying is undesirable, but it is necessary to apply if, say, the temperature on the street is not enough for high-quality solutions. To do this, inside the furnace chamber placed a conventional light bulb for 200 ÷ 300 W and leave it in a burning condition for the entire drying term, which will last from 6 to 10 days.

• After this time, the furnace begins to make a small amount of pinch or paper, starting with 0.5 kg of fuel and adding 0.2 kg daily. This process is carried out throughout, about 10 days. Well, after that, you can already begin a full-fledged firebox of a well-like design.

You may be interested in information about what is on firewood

Heating-cooking oven "Swedie" with a bed

General characteristics and necessary materials

This subsection of publications will be presented to the order of masonry of the heating and a hob equipped with a laying. This model of fundamental type "Swedie" was developed by the engineer of Reznik. The design of such a furnace can be called one of the most popular, as it is characterized by a simple configuration of internal channels, relatively small sizes and its high functionality. In addition, the Swedie, which has a compact size, has a higher efficiency, compared with the Russian oven, which occupies a fairly large area of \u200b\u200bthe house.

Heating-cooking furnace type "Swedie", with warm beds, development of Reznik

"Swedie" this design is convenient for all its parameters. So, if it is installed in the simpleness between two rooms, for example, a kitchen and a bedroom, the large area of \u200b\u200bthe heated wall will warm the living room, and warm can well serve as a sleeping place. The kitchen will also acquire a comfortable cooking plate and drying chambers suitable for different needs, for example, for the billet for the winter of dried vegetables, fruits, as well as healing herbs. Moreover, the drying will be held in vivo, with optimal temperatures for this purpose.

The dimensions of the furnace, given its functional qualities, compact enough, and are at the base of 765 × 1145 mm (3 × 4.5 bricks). Lenhing sizes - 635 × 1785 mm (2.5 × 7 bricks). The overall height of the design without taking into account the housing pipe is 1890 mm, so suitable for rooms with not very high ceilings. With these parameters, heat transfer from the design is 3500 W, and the furnace is able to heat the room with a total area of \u200b\u200bup to 35 square meters.

In the design, two working modes are provided - this is "winter" when all the furnace departments are heated, and the "summer", which allows only the use of the cooking plate and the chamber.

The fuel chamber has a lining of chamotte brick, which increases the reliability and durability of the construction of the structure.

For masonry, the following materials and metal parts are needed:

Name of material and elements	Size in mm or other parameters	Number in pieces (kg)
Weathered red brick	M-200	866 pcs.
Chamotted fire-resistant brick	Sh-8.	139 pcs.
Clay	oily	180 kg
Sand	purified	280 kg
Cooking panel	310 x 650.	1 PC.
Grate	240 x 415.	1 PC.
Fire door	210 x 250.	1 PC.
Clear door	70 x 130.	5 pieces.
Standing door	140 x 250.	1 PC.
Smoke valve	130 x 250.	1 PC.
Summer Stroke	130 x 250.	1 PC.
Steel corner	50 x 50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel strip	50 x 5 x 250	4 things.
	50 x 5 x 360	14 pcs.
	50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel sheet	360 x 375.	1 PC.
Foremost leaf	500 x 700.	1 PC.

In addition, it is necessary to stock asbestos sheet and a cord made from the same material to create heat gaps between metal elements and bricks. It will also require an annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2 ÷ 3 mm - to attach pig-iron and steel parts of the structure.

Perhaps you will be interested in information about what is mini

The process of masonry furnace - "Swedish" with a layman

To begin with, several illustrations that will help to better figure out the endhouses of the furnace design:

You can go to practical masonry. In the table, each laid out of the series is painted, indicating its nuances:

Stock Illustration with spray scheme	Brief description of the operation
	The first row is 76 bricks. The first row should be made perfectly horizontally, with the observance of direct external and inner corners of the masonry.
	The second row is 73 bricks. The row is also solid, but less than the previous one in size by 50 mm for each of the sides. In places where a pensive and clean door will be installed, cutouts, 20 mm depth, by type of niche, are made on the edge of the brick. They are needed for the convenience of the subsequent installation of cast iron elements (shown by the arrow).
	Further, on the same row it takes to install the door of the cleaning of 130 × 70 mm and a subdivinal 140 × 250 mm. Instead of a clear door, some live shops install halves of bricks, which are stacked without a solution.
	The third row consists of 35 red and 6½ chamotte bricks. This series is also less than the previous on the perimeter, but this time during the work, you need to focus on the size specified in the co-order. The horizontal channel of the furnace itself and the beds is formed on this row, as well as a confusion (ash) camera. In the central part of the furnace, another camera is formed, which will not be used, it is needed for longer heat conservation. The brick on the left side of the subductive chamber is cut from above the male (shown by the arrow).
	The fourth row consists of 35 red and 5½ chamotte bricks. Bricks, installed on the left side of the subductive chamber, are cut off by the neglection (shown by the yellow arrow). The ash door is shifted from above by two steel strips of 50x5x360 mm (shown by a green arrow).
	Fifth row - 30 red and 16½ chamotte bricks. In bricks over the ash chamber, cutouts are made (shown by arrows) - the landing place for the grate grid with a size of 240 × 415 mm.
	Continuation of the fifth row. The central camera across is shifted by four steel strips in size in 50 × 5 × 250 mm (shown by the yellow arrow). To increase the heat capacity of the furnace, this chamber can be filled with sand, stones, but you can leave the hollow. The grateproof cast iron grille is put in place (shown by a green arrow).
	Sixth row. For this row, 32 ½ red and 18 chamotte bricks will be required. The horizontal channel will become the base for the vertical chimney. The space under the layer is divided into 7 parts. The walls of the fuel chamber furnace are formed around the grille.
	The seventh row consists of 36½ red and 11 chamotte bricks. The vertical chimney is reduced to 190 × 130 mm by shifting it with brick. At the same stage, the door of the gasket chamber is installed 210 × 250 mm (shown by the arrow).
	The eighth row. It is laid out in accordance with the scheme of 38 red and 12 chammed bricks.
	The ninth row consists of 35½ red and 12½ chamotte bricks. On this row, a channel is formed between the fuel chamber and space under the layer, which is connected to the smoke passages of the bed. Brick, which will be set between the heat chamber and the vertical chimney, is cut from both sides at the top at the angle (shown by the arrow). Thus, the passage between the furnace and the other smoking channels of the furnace begins to form. Here you need to consider that the upper part of the heat door and the top of the brick cut from both sides should be on the same level. Subject to the installation of the door above on one row, the combustion products would have the possibility of free access to the room, when the door of the turbid furnace is opened.
	The tenth row is laid out of 36 red and 8 chammed bricks. At this stage of the work, the furnace chamber is connected to the vertical channel. Red and chamoite bricks, located on both sides above the furnace door, are cut from above the neper of the top (shown by the yellow arrow), since the brick, cut from the bottom on both sides, is also under the angle between them on the principle of the lock. Next, the resulting horizontal channel is divided into two parts - the small right and large left. Some of the bricks forming the channel and the left side are cut into the top of the neglection (shown by the green arrow).
	On the same row, the red brick and ½ chamotte brick (shown by arrows) in the remaining lock connector above the furnace.
	The 11th row consists of 54 red and 9 chammed bricks. At this stage, the space is overlapped under the layer. Its size increases due to the movement of extreme bricks by 30 mm, the exact parameters are shown in the search scheme. The removal of the walls of the furnace continues, the bricks in it and the chimney channels are trimmed with the defect - on the furnace on top, on the channels below (shown, respectively, yellow and green arrows).
	The 12th row is laid out of 49½ red and 16 challenge bricks. Lenhing is repeatedly overlapped in this row, also with an increase in its size - extreme bricks are shifted by 30 mm. Along the back wall of the furnace form three vertical chimney channels. The middle and left channel are connected to the bottom with the total space, and the right is combined with the output channel of the laying. Bricks that form the right and middle channel are cut off by the neglection (shown by yellow arrows). In the bricks framing the flue chamber, the groove is cut out - the landing place for mounting the hob (green arrows). Moreover, the sizes of each side of the landing place must be greater than the plate for 5 mm.
	On the same row, the cooking panel is mounted 310 × 650 mm (shown by the arrow).
	The 13th row consists of 49 red and 7 chammed bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The bed is overlapped by the third brick layer, and its size is returned to the initial one. For this, bricks of this row are shifted inside. In the diagram you can clearly consider the forming vertical channels - the main one, located on the left side of the cooking panel and the three, located along the rear wall.
	The 14th row is laid out of 16 red and 4 chammed bricks. Only the furnace is erected from this row, since the laying of the beds is already completely complete. Two halves of bricks are stacked in the rear wall of the furnace, which must be over the limits of 25 mm masonry (shown by arrows). They are needed so that they can be removed to clean the channels.
	The 15th row consists of 14½ and 3 chamotte bricks. When it is laid out, the same halves of bricks are installed above the installed halves of bricks (shown by arrows).
	The 16th row is laid out in accordance with the scheme, and consists of 15 red and 3 chamotte bricks.
	The 17th row is also displayed according to the represented scheme, from 14½ red and 3 chamotte bricks.
	The 18th row consists of 14 red and 2½ chammed bricks. In the left wall of the cooking chamber is the passage (shown by the arrow), where the ventilation door of the cooking chamber will be installed, which is opened during cooking.
	18th row. Further, on the same row in the left ventilation passage, a 70 × 130 mm door is installed (shown by the yellow arrow). Then, the steel strip 50 × 5 × 735 (green arrow) is placed on the walls of the cooking chamber for its overlap (green arrow), and on their edge - a corner 50x50x5x735 mm (blue arrow).
	The 19th row consists of 16 ½ red and 3 chammed bricks. At this stage, the front of the cooking chamber is overlapped with bricks. Brick laid on the steel strip and corner.
	Further, on the same row, the cooking chamber overlaps with a fully sheet of roofing iron 360 × 375 mm (shown by the yellow arrow), on top of which five steel bands 50 × 5 × 360 mm (green arrows) are stacked. The metal sheet gives the ceiling of the cooking chamber an induced appearance.
	The 20th row consists of 20½ red and 5 chamotte bricks. They completely overlaps the cooking chamber, and on the main chimney channel in bricks, the landing place is cut (shown by the arrow) for mounting the valve of the "summer" stroke.
	Further, on the same row on the landing site, the valve is installed 130 × 250 mm (shown by the arrow).
	The 21st row, its masonry involves the use of 21 red and 5 chamotte bricks. A number of scheme are laid out. Bricks, framing the left vertical channel from the main smoke channel in the upper part, are cut off by the neglection (shown by the yellow arrow). The brick, stacked between the middle and right vertical channels, is cut from both sides by the maternity (green arrow).
	The 22nd row consists of 17 red bricks. When laying out this series, the left and basic, as well as middle and right channels occurs. There is two drying chambers. In the back wall of a large drying chamber and the rear wall of the combined main and left channels are installed by half the bricks, which can be removed if you need to clean the channels (shown by arrows).
	The 23rd line consists of 16½ red bricks. For overlapping the area of \u200b\u200bthe left vertical channel, three steel stripes 50 × 5 × 360 mm are stacked above it (shown by arrows).
	The 24th row is laid out of 20 ½ red bricks. At this stage, it is overlapped with bricks of the left vertical channel, only a hole of 130x260 mm is left for the main chimney channel. Bricks that form the back wall of the main chimney channel, the necrosok (shown by the yellow arrow) are cut below. Two steel strips of 50 × 5 × 360 mm (green arrows) are stacked on the front part of the drying chamber.
	The 25th row consists of 30 red bricks. At this stage, it is overlapping the right and medium vertical channels, as well as the front part of the large and all small chamber. Then the open space of a large drying chamber overlaps with two steel stripes 50 × 5 × 360 mm (shown by arrows). Bricks in the masonry of the side and facade sides of the furnace are put forward for 30 mm. The drawing shows the dimensions that should be as a result of this offset.
	The 26th row is laid out of 31½ red bricks. At this stage, the entire top of the furnace is overlap, except for the opening for the main chimney channel. This series continues the expansion of the previous one, that is, it is also the front and part of the side of the sides of the side, and each. All sizes of protrusions are indicated on the drawing order.
	The 27th row consists of 26 red bricks. At this stage, the size of the rectangular plane returns to the original, that is, bricks are shifted from the edge, according to the dimensions specified in the scheme.
	The 28th row is laid out of 5 red bricks, and is the basis of the housing tube. Cutouts are made from the inner edges on bricks (shown by the yellow arrow) for the seaming gateway of 130 × 250 mm. After that, the valve itself is installed (green arrow).
	The 29th row also consists of 5 red bricks, and is the second side of the nozzle tube. Next, further decomposition of the chimney is already underway.

If you listen to all recommendations and thoroughly follow the scheme-order, this furnace having a sufficiently simple design of channels and departments is completely undertaking even a novice liver. The main thing in this work is not to rush, and accurately perform the configuration of each row.

Cookies include kitchen stoves of various designs. They are different sizes and serve only for cooking. Connect kitchen furnaces to indigenous or nasadny tubes.

Brick kitchen stoves

Kitchen plates in their design can be divided into ordinary, medium difficulty and complex.

A simple kitchen cooker has a fiber and configuration door, a grate grid and a smoke valve. It is the simplest of all household stoves.

Kitchen plates of medium difficulty have an oven, and a compound and a hot water box. The ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and the water-heating boxes are from galvanized steel. The housing of the hotlery box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker steel, the more durable the devices.

Furnace with two-nodescoat and oven

In a simple kitchen cooker, hot flue gases from the fuel can be sent under the cast-iron plate, and then through the hole under the pipe is discharged into the smoke pipe.

In the rest of the kitchen stoves, hot flue gases are sent under the cast-iron slab and further, dropping, warm the walls of the oven or one wall of the hot water box, and then discharge into the pipe, while warming up the bottom wall of the oven, the bottom and other wall of the hot water box.

The above-mentioned kitchen stoves do not have a cooking chamber, so pairs and smell are highlighted during cooking in the room, which adversely affects the room microclimate. This article provides drawings of cuts and co-plate coils of an improved design, in which the cooking chamber is provided connected to the pipe with a ventilation channel overlapped by ventilation valve.

Simple kitchen stove

A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).

The following materials are needed to masonry the kitchen stove:

• brick red - 120 pcs.;
• red clay - 50 kg;
• sand - 40 kg;
• grate grille - 28 × 25 cm;
• fake-up door - 25 × 21 cm;
• door confused - 25 × 14 cm;
• cast iron plate for two burners - 70 × 40 cm;
• stovetage (corner 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
• sheet of roofing steel under the stove - 1160 × 510 mm;
• felt construction - 1 kg;

One live shop can fold a simple kitchen plate for 3 hours (not counting the masonry of the chimney), additionally, 1.5 hours are required for the material and the preparation of the grinding solution. For the construction of the chimney, additional time is necessary: \u200b\u200bdepending on its height, it is necessary to calculate the time from Half an hour calculation on 1 m pipe masonry (when laying pipes in a quarter of bricks).

The heat transfer of a simple kitchen plate with a biennial cooking is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal / h).

Figure below shows the vertical and horizontal cuts of a simple kitchen plate. Next will be given the drawings of the masonry in the ranks (spokes). From the cuts and drawings of masonry in the ranks it is clear that the laying of a simple kitchen plate does not represent difficulties.

Sections of a simple kitchen furnace: A - facade; b - cut A-A (longitudinal vertical cut of the furnace); B - section B-B (transverse vertical section). Designations: 1-fuel; 2 - ashnon chamber; 3 - grate and grate; 4 - smoke valve; 5 - cast iron stove (flooring).

Before starting the masonry of a simple kitchen oven, you should purchase the necessary furnaces.

Preparing the grinding solution, proceed to the laying of a simple kitchen plate. If the plate is put on the foundation, then align it up. When laying the plates on the wooden floor it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel in the size of the plate. On the floor, put a layer of sheet asbestos, and in its absence - two layers of building felt, well-membered in the grinding solution, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail to the floor. Then, from a whole brick, make a platform into two rows of masonry on the grinding solution. After that, it is embarked on the laying of the plate from the first row strictly in the orders.

First row Putting, following the rules of dressing of seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. Completed masonry is checked for rectangles.

The first row of a simple kitchen oven

During masonry second row it is satisfied attended, install a pensive door, which is fixed to the masonry with the help of a furnace wire. The temporarily configuration door in front can be maintained by bricks, which are stacked with a stack on the floor in front of the subepent door. The bottom of the coil chamber is 380 × 250 mm.

Second row of the kitchen oven

Third row It looks like the previous one, however, you should teach the seams well.

Third row

Fourth row It covers the subdivine door, while only the hole of the ashtop chamber is 250 × 250 mm in size, which is placed in a grate grid. If possible, masonry from the fourth row is desirable to carry out from refractory brick, as shown in the figure below.

Masonry fourth row. Shaded bricks are refractory. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Fifth row Forms 510 × 250 mm under the fifthlist. The brick adjacent to the grate to the grate grid is shy, to form an inclined plane, along which the fuel will roll onto the grate of the grid (see the section B-B C O A-A). When laying this row, you need to install a flue door, after attaching the paws from roofing with rivets.

Fifth stove masonry

Sixth row locked the same as the previous one, but should be tied up with seams.

Masonry of the sixth row of oven

Seventh row Put according to the figure below. This is close to the chimney under the stove, which connects the fuel pipe with the chimney.

Seventh row of the furnace

Eighth row Perform strictly horizontally, this next to overlap the flue door. On the eighth row laid out with a thin layer of the grinding solution, they laid a cast-iron slab. Cast iron factory manufacturing plates from the bottom side have protrusions, or rigidity ribs that retreat 15 mm from the edges of the plates.

The eighth row of the furnace

The internal dimensions of the masonry of the eighth row should be such that the stove with their fins freely enters and had a gap on all directions of at least 5 mm, designed to expand the metal when heated it. If you do not observe this, then the cast-iron stove, expanding, destroy the oven layer. So that the masonry was durable, on the eighth row, lay the strapping from angular steel. The frame is desirable to cover with refractory varnish, which protects steel from rust.

After masonry ninth row With the help of a thin layer of the grinding solution, the smoke valve is installed. This row is the final, then the smoke pipe is underway.

Completing a row of a simple kitchen oven

The kitchen stove works as follows. The flue gases from the pop-up fall under the cast-iron slab, then through the hole under the pipe through the smoke valve is discharged into the smoke tube.
In the kitchen cooker, the clean hole is not provided, since it is possible to clean the chimney through the hole under the pipe where it is easy to shove the hand through the cast iron plate.

Example of masonry of the hob

First, in the kitchen cooker, the cooker is installed on the same level with a grasp grille. In the slab, flue gases are constantly maintained in the chimney high temperature, as a result of which it is not necessary to put the large thickness fuel on the grate grille. Secondly, with such an installation of the furnace door, the distance from the grate grid to the cast iron plate will be equal only 280 mm, which makes it possible even with a small fuel consumption quickly cook food.

After the end of the masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to dry it, opening the flue and configuration doors and the valve in the pipe.

The longer the oven is dried, the stronger the masonry. Kitchen stove can be dried with small trials, but after testing floors, the valve in the pipe and the confusion door must be left open.

After complete drying, the kitchen stove is plastered with a mulling solution with a subsequent whitewash.

Outdoor finish, it is better to produce as follows: After the masonry of the eighth row and the installation of the cast-iron stove, as well as before installing the strapping from the corner steel, the kitchen plate is littered from all sides into the case of roofing (can be used galvanized steel). Pre-cut the corresponding holes in the sizes of the furnace and subdivine doors. Floor case is fixed with a plinth that is naked around the plate. The outer surface of the case is purified and covered with a chicken varnish that is well withstanding high temperature.

Before the furnace door, the surface sheet is nails with nails after 50 mm from each other. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the prestituct sheet should be beatened to the plinth.

Kitchen stove with oven

The kitchen stove with oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
For masonry of the kitchen plate with oven, the following materials are needed:

• red brick - 140 pcs.;
• red clay - 60 kg;
• sand - 50 kg;
• grate grille - 26 × 25 cm;
• fake-up door - 25 × 21 cm;
• door confused - 14 × 25 cm;
• clear doors 130 × 140 mm - 2 pcs.;
• pig-iron plate of five composite plates with a size of 53 × 18 cm with two burners;
• smoking catch - 130 × 130 mm;
• oven - 45x31x28 cm;
• slab strapping (30x30x4 mm corner) - 4 m;
• the prestituct sheet of roofing steel - 500 × 700 mm;
• sheet of roofing steel under the stove - 1290 × 640 mm;
• felt construction - 1.2 kg;
• metal camp for collecting ash in the Kolnikova chamber - 350x230x100 mm.

One live shop can fold this furnace for 3-4 hours, in addition to the belief of the material and the preparation of the grinding solution, about 2 hours are required. The heat transfer of the plate with two-time cooking is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal / h). Figure below shows a general view, longitudinal and transverse cuts of the kitchen plate with an oven. Next will be given pictures-co-orders of each row. The masonry of the kitchen plate with oven also does not represent difficulties and looks like a laying of a simple kitchen plate, but here you have to install the oven and the clean doors.

Kitchen stove with oven: a - general view; b - cuts of aa, b-b (vertical cuts), B-B, Mr. (horizontal cuts). Designations: 1 - Solnic chamber; 2 - grate grille; 3 - fuel; 4 - cast iron stove; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke valve; 7 - cooker; 8 - a confusion door; 9 - Clean holes.

When laying the plate on an independent foundation before starting work, it is equalized to the top of the layer of the grinding solution.

When installing the slab on the floor before the start of the first row masonry, it is necessary to carry out the same works as when laying a simple kitchen plate.

Masonch first row made from selected whole brick, strictly adhering to the rules of dressing of seams. The length of the kitchen plate should correspond to the length of five bricks, the width is 2.5 bricks. With the help of the cord check the equality of diagonals.

Masonry of the first row of the kitchen stove with oven

Second row lay out, strictly following the order. Here we leave the coil chamber with a size of 380 × 250 mm, installed and fasten the subepent door, the clean holes are left on the rear wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). With the ability to establish the cleft doors with a size of 130 × 140 mm. At the extreme from the ashpan chamber of the clean hole laid a brick on the edge, as shown on the laying coach. For better attachment of the oven in the middle of its place, it is placed on the side of the brick on the edge.

Masonry of the second row of plates

Third row It looks like the previous one, only the seam dressing rule should be observed.

Masonry of the third row of plates

Fourth row Overlapping configuration and cleaner doors. After the end of the fourth-row masonry on the fine layer of the grinding solution on a pre-marked place is installed an oven. After that, the grille is installed. By the same next to the edge brick, the chimney into the smoke tube is overlapped.

Masonry fourth row stove with oven

During masonry fifth row Install and fasten the flue door, the brick before installing the grille is shred in order for the fuel in the combustion process gradually rolled into a grate grid.

Stove fifth masonry

Sixth row Looks like the fifth.

Masonry of the sixth row of plates

Seventh row lay out in order. The resulting channel of the chimney from the front side is laid by three bricks, as a result of which the inner size of the channel formed under the flue pipe will be 130 × 130 mm. In the image of this row, the oven shows a steam pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 160 mm, which connects the oven with the rising channel. This pipe is designed to remove steam and smell.

Laying seventh row of plates with oven. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Eighth row Perform strictly horizontally by level. This is nearby overlapping the oven and flue door. The upper wall of the oven is deprived by a layer of clay solution with a thickness of up to 10-
15 mm, which will protect the oven from fast exercise.

Masonry of the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing the cast iron plate)

In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay coating and the cast-iron plate was at least 70 mm. Thereafter, they are installed on a thin layer of the grinding solution a cast-iron plate and an angular steel squeeze.

The eighth row of a brick oven (after installing the cast iron plate)

After masonry ninth row Only the masonry of the vertical channel remains. The ninth row is put according to the image below.

Ninth a number of stove

After masonry tenth rows Install the smoke valve.

The tenth of the furnace

Masonry eleventh row Begin the smoke tube. Further laying of the pipe does not represent difficulties.

Final row of oven (chimney masonry is not taken into account)

Kitchen stove with oven works like this. From the fuel, flue gases are sent under the cast-iron slab, from where they, heating the oven from behind on both sides, are lowered under the oven and are directed to the hole under the smoke. Lifting up the vertical channel, they enter the smoke tube through the smoke valve and are removed into the atmosphere.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box

For masonry of the kitchen plate with an oven and water-heated box of 1290 × 640 mm, the same materials are needed as for the previous stove. Additionally, it should be purchased a water-type 510x280x120 mm in size.

Figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section of a-A and a vertical section of the B-B plates.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box: A - general view; b - cuts. Definitions: 1 - fuel; 2 - cast iron stove; 3 oven; 4 - Water Box; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ashpical chamber; 7 - corner steel strapping

The kitchen plate with an oven and a hot water box is put in the same order as the kitchen stove with an oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row instead of a partition brick on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel, the water-heating box is installed in the case. The height of the water-heating box should correspond to the height of four rows of brick masonry plastics. The rest of the laying is completely similar to the masonry of the kitchen plate with an oven.

Kitchen stove with oven and water-heated box of improved design

In the kitchen stoves in the countryside are preparing not only food for people, but also boil the feed for livestock, boiling underwear when washing. During the firebox to the room there is a lot of steam and strangers are distinguished. Because of this, the humidity of air indoors increases, which adversely affects its microclimate. Therefore, to remove strangers and steam in the kitchen stoves it is desirable to provide a cooking chamber, which is connected to a flue tube with a ventilation channel. In the ventilation channel you need to install ventilation valve.

Installing a two-dimensional door in a cooking chamber allows you to save food in it hot for a long time and thus prevent its zaking.

Cooking chamber in a brick oven

The pop-up and pondered (the coil chamber) outside closed with appropriate doors. The top surface of the brass cabinet is protected from hot gases with a layer of clay solution with a thickness of 10-12 cm. Kitchen slab from the fourth to the ninth row is desirable to put out refractory bricks (especially the fifth).

An example of the overlapping of ash bar

Kitchen stove up to a ninth row of masonry It is advisable to make from sheet steel, and to enhance its strength after mounting the frame on the grinding solution, set the cutting of the corner steel. Since the mass of such a plate will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.

If the device is not possible, the floor must be strengthened with additional beams, which are mounted on brick columns. Instead of brick columns, you can apply poles from solid rock logs, reinforced concrete poles, iron pipes with a cross section of at least 180-200 mm.

In the kitchen plate of the improved design there is a "direct" stroke. During the long-term firebox, the plate is possible evaporation of water in the water-heating box. To stop this, it is necessary to add some cold water into it and open the "direct" stroke. In this case, flue gases from under the cast iron slabs do not fall down, and immediately go to the smoke pipe. As a result, the water-heating box ceases to warm up, the evaporation of water in it stops.

Example of a "direct" stroke

For the convenience of cleaning the coil chamber from the ash in it, a special box of roofing steel 350x230x100 mm is installed. This prevents pollution of the room when cleaning the ash-shepheric chamber from ash.

The kitchen plate of such a design has the following advantages compared with the previous kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box:

• during cooking in the room there are no couples and extraneous smells that are removed into the atmosphere through the ventilation hole;
• food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber is saved by a hot long time and does not waste during the day;
• with the help of the "direct" stroke gate, it is possible to cook food, without having warmed the hot water box and thereby prevents the further evaporation of the water in it.

Figure below shows a general view of the kitchen stove in front, there are drawings of slab cuts in the most difficult places. Drawings of masonry in the rows will be further, and they give an exhaustive idea of \u200b\u200bthe internal device of the slab. Using coaches and drawings in the rows, you can fold the slab yourself, without the help of the binder.

Kitchen stove with an oven and water-heated box of improved design: A - facade; b - cuts Aa-A, BB, B - cuts in-B, Mr., Dr., E-e. Definitions: 1 - a pensive door; 2 - cooker; 3 oven; 4 - the door of the cooking chamber; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - the "direct" stroke label; 8 - Water Box; 9 - Cute holes; 10 - cast iron stove.

The kitchen stove with an oven and a water-heating box of an improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.

The following materials are needed for masonry:

• red brick - 250 pcs.;
• brick refractory - 80 pcs.;
• red clay - 180 kg;
• sand - 90 kg;
• door coil - 250 × 210 mm;
• door confused - 250 × 140 mm;
• grille grate - 280 × 250 mm;
• wardrobe oven 250x280x450 mm;
• cast iron plate with two burners - 700 × 400 mm;
• water Box - 250x140x510 mm;
• foremost sheet - 500 × 700 mm;
• steel strip size 400x250x6 mm;
• the door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
• steel Angle for strapping plate size 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
• steel bandage for overlapping a hob size 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.

The kitchen plate can be added to one bubble for 18-20 hours, for the preparation of a solution and a material belief, an additional 6 h is required.

To fold the slab with a furnace on the left side, you need to consider drawings with the help of a mirror assigned to the refrigeration.

The kitchen plate is laid out as follows. Masonch first row Produced by the foundation erected to the floor level. The first row determines the main sizes of the plate. The length of the plate is equal to the length of the laying of five bricks on the grinding solution, and the width is a length of 2.5 bricks.

The first row of an improved kitchen plate with an oven and hot water box

During masonry second row Two cleaner doors and a confusion door are installed in front. They are fixed to the masonry with the help of a furnace wire.

Masonry of the second row of the furnace; 1 - a subelevant door, 9 - cleaner holes.

Masonch third rows They produce according to the coach, it looks like a previous row. After masonry, the third row is installed a water-heating box.

Masonry of the third row of the furnace; 11 - steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm.

Topial fourth row Putting from refractory bricks, with its absence sorted first-alternate red bricks. The fourth row overlaps the clean holes and the confusion door, forming the beginning of the submission. After the masonry of the fourth row, the grille and oven are installed.

Fourth stove

Masonry fifth row no difficulties. The brick adjacent from behind the grate of the grille is half shred to form an inclined plane.

Masonry of the fifth row of the furnace; 3 oven.

Before masonry sixth row prepare a flue door, for which the rivets are attached from above and bottom, which should be longer than the coaching door in both directions by 10 cm. For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed to the stove, the ends of which are close in the masonry. The door is installed on the grinding solution, pre-wolving the asbestos fiber frame of the flue door.

Masonry of the sixth row

Masonry seventh row fasten the base of the coil door.

Laying seventh row

Eighth row Overlapping water box.

Masonry of the eighth row

Ninth rivers overlaps the flue door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from a layer of a clay solution with a thickness of 10-12 mm. This series is preferably putting completely from refractory brick.

Laying of the ninth row

After the end of the masonry of the ninth row above the fifth, the cast-iron plate is installed on the grinding solution. A large plate burner is placed over the fuel. Next to the main stove is added extra, made of steel sheet of 400x200x6 mm. After that, they laid the corner steel to which the lower frame of the door of the cooking chamber is welded. For the strength, the corner steel is desirable to tie through the special holes in it a stove wire, which is fixed to the masonry.

Installation of pig-iron plates on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet with a thickness of 6 mm; 13 - Corner steel.

Tenth row Put from an ordinary red brick. On the right side, leave the window to clean the channel "direct" stroke. Part of the bricks that overlap the stove, beolate the blades before masonry so that in the event that the slab can be easily replaced with it.

Laying of the tenth row

Masonry eleventh row It does not represent difficulties, you only need to follow the rules of dressing of seams.

Eleventh stove

Twelfth overlaps the cleaning window.

The twelfth row of the furnace

After masonry t.rynignant On the grinding solution, the "direct" stroke valve is installed.

Thirteenth stoves; 6 - Ventilation valve.

Masonry fourteenth row Must match the level of the upper door frame to the cooking chamber. Next to the upper door frame to the cooking chamber, an angular steel is 45x45x800 mm in size.

Fourteenth row of the furnace

Fifteenth row Overlaps the door to the cooking chamber.

Fifteenth Furnaces

Sixteenth row Overlaps the channel "direct" stroke.

Masonry of the sixteenth row of kitchen oven

Masonry seventeenth row Provides a ventilation channel for disgusting odor and steam from the cooking chamber.

Masonry of the seventeenth row of the kitchen oven

After grapete eighteenth row Over the cooking chamber, four cuts of strip steel with a size of 4x45x500 mm for overlapping a cooking chamber are installed.

Masonry of the eighteenth row of kitchen oven

Nineteenth row overlaps the cooking chamber. After the end of the masonry of this series, install ventilation valve.

Decorating a nineteenth row of a kitchen furnace; 6 - Ventilation valve.

Masonry twentieth and twenty first The series does not represent difficulties, only should be good to tie the seams.

Masonry of a twentieth row of a kitchen oven

Masonment twenty first row

Masonry twenty Second row Reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130 × 130 mm.

Laying twenty second row

Twenty-third and twenty fourth rows put according to my friend.

Twenty-third stoves

Twenty fourth rows

After masonry twenty fifth row install the smoke valve, which is simultaneously adjusting.

Masonry twenty fifth row of furnace; 5 - smoke valve.

Masonry twenty-sixth rows begin the smoke tube. The masonry of the chimney does not represent difficulties.

Masonry of the final series (not counting the chimney)

After the end of the masonry of the furnace before it is coating, chimneys from fallen residues and rubble through the cleft holes are purified. Holes for cleaning after that laid brick halves on the grinding solution.

When installing the clean doors, they are tightly closed, the looseness is lubricated with mensing solution.

After that, the slab can be dried in two ways: opening the movement and configuration doors and valves or small trial fireboxes. After a complete drying, the slab is placed with ancading solution, and after drying the plaster produce a two-time blotch. Before the flue door, a pre-floor sheet is nourished.

Brick cooking oven with your own hands: Step-by-step instruction of masonry + photo

The problem of heating of dacha and country houses is associated with the lack of central supply of coolant and gas. Many have already managed to be disappointed in metal bourgearies, but a small stove of bricks - with their own hands built - gives comfort and warmth that cannot but rejoice.

Brick furnaces for country houses

Benefits

In the past two or three decades, modern metal furnaces took an indisputable monopoly in individual construction. This is caused by a number of factors:

• Comparative cheap compared to;
• Ease of installation and installation;
• Sliding deadlines for the installation of the heating device at the end of use;
• The manufacturer declared high performance coefficient and fire savings;
• The seeming complexity of the construction of a brick furnace and the difficulties associated with finding a decent specialist in this area, fear of independent construction such a monumental object;
• The lack of the need for complex work with the roof when installing the chimney pipe;
• Relative compactness, which is important for the country house;
• Advertising campaign of metal furnace manufacturers, approving their indisputable advantages.

However, it is worth the owner of the metallic device once to be indoors equipped with a stone stove, his views change dramatically.

It is impossible to deny the fact that the heat produced by such a stove is incomparably comfortable and more pleasant. In the room it is easy to breathe, it is a pleasant smell, a special atmosphere and comfort.

Also different food cooked in a stone furnace. Special temperature regime, the taste of smoke and the effect of the oven gives it a unique taste and aroma.

In addition, there are many data on some therapeutic properties of thermal radiation emanating precisely from the warm clay, heated to 70 to 75 ° C. We will not go into the debris of physics and biology, we note the fact itself.

So, the advantages of a brick oven collected into a single list:

• Huge heat capacity and inertia of the device. It is enough to protrude such a furnace once, and it will take a long time to give heat into the room. Even in severe frosts, the amount of furnaces does not exceed two per day;
• The oven does not overheat from the outside, and it is impossible to burn it about it, which is extremely important for families with young children;
• The furnace does not dry the air as metal analogues do;
• The thermal radiation is much softer, not so aggressive and severe, both from steel and cast iron surfaces;
• Food consumption is less (controversial opinion, but many owners agree);
• Incomparably longer service life;
• The smallest brick oven creates more comfort and comfort than the largest metal;
• Easily allows you to heat large volumes of water, and if you install a coil or register, warm water will always be;
• In the oven and furnace you can burn a large amount of bread and other flour products, as well as cook porridges and other dishes;
• Even small brick stoves look great and decorate the interior, create an inexplicable comfort and a special entourage indoors.

Tip! Any heating device on firewood is a potential source of danger, so it produces carbon monoxide. Therefore, it is not necessary to take for complex large ovens, but little brick oven do it yourself- quite real option.

Naturally, there is nothing perfect and absolute, so it is necessary to talk about the difficulties and disadvantages of stone heating devices.

disadvantages

Since we have listed the advantages of brick stoves, let's be fair and remember about the disadvantages. We do not conduct an advertising campaign, therefore not worrying objective estimates.

So, among the shortcomings of stone stoves, you can list the following features:

• A very time-consuming structure, especially for a person who has no experience in the construction of such products;
• A fairly costly event, especially if you attract an experienced Master-kindergarten, the price of effort and skills of these guys are definitely high;
• There is a risk of unsuccessful construction, and the alteration of a stone monolithic structure, as you understand, the occupation is not the simplest;
• The danger of operation of a faulty or incorrectly constructed furnace is associated with carbon monoxide poisoning, which can lead to very sad consequences;
• Requires more space in the house than a metal analogue, although today there are more and more projects of small stoves, which this deficiency is practically levied;
• High inertia is associated with rather long warming and extract, so in order to properly protruding the room, may take several hours.

Tip! If you use the Cottage for rare raids for a day or two in the warm season, however, and in the cold too, then you do not make sense to try the construction of a brick oven, as the heating will take from three hours, and in the meantime you are already taking place back. The brick oven is needed to people who love a country rest and allow themselves to spend on the country long winter weeks.

Here the question of appointment of the furnace is faced. Obviously, the stoves are different, both in design, and size, and functions.

Purchase destination

Another important point is the correct choice of configuration, design and assignment of the stove. Since we are talking about the dacha, it follows from the requirements of temporary country housing.

There are four main types of furnaces in general:

1. Heating;
2. Cooking;
3. Baths;
4. Mixed.

Strictly speaking, bath furnaces can be attributed to the specialized meaning of heating devices. But we will not deepen in the subtleties of the classification, since the occupation is, in general, it is useless.

Let's just say that for the cottage I would like to have a mixed type - something like, as it is irrational from the point of view of saving space.

Therefore, it is possible to voice the requirements for a dacha brick furnace based on the foregoing:

1. Simplicity of design so that you can put the construction with your own hands;
2. Compact sizes, this is a cottage, not a lock or residence;
3. Multifunctionality, that is, a mixed type furnace, with which you can cook food, heat the water and warm the house.

Construction of a country brick furnace

We will need a clay-sandy solution, a building brick (double silicate brick M 150 not suitable, need clay), trunk, bucket, trough for kneading, plumb, level, asbestos cord, chamotte brick, doors, valves and other furnishings, steel galvanized Wire, hammer with pickaxe, Bulgarian with a disc on concrete.

The furnace will take 0.4 m², and its weight will be insignificant, so you can do without the foundation. If you have a weak floor, then it is better to make a screed for masonry.

So, laying a small country stove along the steps:

• On the selected place the place to put rubregaoid or pergamine size 530 × 780 mm for waterproofing;
• From above smear sand with a thickness of one centimeter and recall;
• According to Scheme No. 1 (drawing at the beginning of the paragraph), we lay out the first row of bricks, without fastening, and align it using a level;

• We apply a thin layer of the clay solution. We take a pensive door, wind the dual layer of asbestos cord and fix the twisted wire.
• Lay out the second row of bricks.

• We take chammatory brick and lay out the third row. After its formation, we establish a grate grid. Observe the gaps on the temperature expansion of materials up to 1 cm.

• Brick installed on the edge, lay out the fourth row. Inside the chimney canal make a stand for the inner partition. "Hosted bricks" of the rear wall laying without clay with a slight protrusion outside.
• We establish a flue door wrapped by asbestos. Confirm with twisted wire and temporarily fix two bricks: one put the back on the ass, the other on it and the door on top.

• We lay out the fifth row plastics along the contour of the fourth, and the sixth on the edge. Smoking walls wear a wet rag.

• The seventh row put the plastics from three-quad (3/4 of the whole brick cut off with a grinder) for a bundle with the eighth side. Rear wall again on the edge.

• Eighth, close by closing the fiber door with two bricks over it. Over the furnace we install the bevelled brick for centering the flame under the burner.

• The ninth row put on the offset back (small) to maintain an open door. Before masonry, lay a wet asbestos cord for sealing of brick and hob joints.
• The tenth begins the formation of a chimney pipe, which will gradually expand back. The pipe will make an appropriate, so as not to shift the center of gravity of the design, or a light iron nozzle.

• In the eleventh row, we laid the valve, weave its asbestos cord, an incelave clay.

• Next is the smoke trumpet in the chimek, which is joined with a metal light tube.

• Now we take out the elevation of bricks and clean the lower part of the chimney from the garbage.

• We close the gap between the first round of the brick and the floor of the metal M-shaped sleeve and nail the plinth.
• We blele the furnace or cover it with a stove varnish, we seal all the joints between the metal and brick. Metal parts can be painted with black refractory paint.

• We make a test tube with paper and small branches, then give 2 weeks to dry.

As you can see, all manipulations are not so difficult to produce yourself. Material and labor costs are relatively small, the site does not occupy a lot.

At the same time, we got a warm-cooking device, which perfectly protrudes a small country house, will give your streaming the unique taste and aroma of smoke, will create a pleasant atmosphere and comfort.

Tip! If you can invite a little more experienced in a person's oversee, at least as a consultant, use it enough, as it is difficult to build a book on the book, it is better to see once.

Output

Brick stoves are considered cumbersome, expensive and complex in construction. However, it is easy to verify specific examples that these opinions are somewhat exaggerated, and you can build an inexpensive compact dacha brick stove, and independently.

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

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In the past century, the sole heating agent for households was a stove, and the People's specialists lived in good enough taste and enjoyed tremendous respect among people. Today, the stoves did not go into oblivion and still enjoy great popularity in homes, baths and saunas.

With the development of the Internet, to become a liver can anyone. To do this, you only need to set the goal, acquire the necessary materials and find the necessary tools. You can fold the stove with your own hands.

Folding a brick oven is not the simplest thing. To begin with careful preparation of materials, tools, plans. But first of all, you need to decide what kind of many types of furnaces you want to do.

• Heating furnaces. As it is clear from the name, their main task is to heat the room. Furnaces of this species are extremely simple, have a simple design and build them for a short time.
• Combined furnaces. More universal type of furnaces than the first. They are somewhat more complicated in construction, but they have not only the heating function of the room. On such furnaces you can cook cooking. In some versions, even brass cabinets are embedded in them.
• Furnaces fireplaces. The perfect type of furnace for a private house or cottage. Possessing an unsurpassed appearance, they cope well with the heating of your building. A competently built and well-processed fireplace will be an interior highlight of your home.

Some masters rank furnaces are not by the main function, but in the form of the unit: square, rectangular, round and so on.

Of course, almost any homeowner can make the stove with your own hands. Numerous schemes and manuals will help you make it high quality and with minimal time costs. The furnace can be of any size, shape and purpose. However, it should be remembered that the main condition for its successful construction will be fireproof.

The main advantages of a brick furnace

With the wide development of private households, conventional brick furnaces are increasingly using. Often they prefer modern heating devices: gas and other boilers. Not to mention metal furnaces. Among the main positive features of brick stoves can be allocated:

• Prolonged heat saving. Brick oven is a real thermal battery. Thanks to the manufacturing material, it keeps the temperature for almost throughout the day. Accordingly, it is necessary to heat it much less often, and the firewood toss up is no more often than once every 4-6 hours.
• Efficiency. As stated earlier, the oven holds the heat longer, it means that you are less often to the top and spend less fuel.
• Ecology. The furnace consists of natural materials and is token preferably with firewood.
• Safety. The outer planes of the furnace are not exposed to strong heating. The brickwork gradually takes excess heat from the furnace and transmits it to the surrounding space. So, thermal radiation will be softer than from iron "bourgeitors".
• Breath. The furnace during the firebox highlights the moisture of the brick, which softens the air. When cooled, the masonry is again moisturized. Air humidity is always at 40-60 percent, which is useful for the human respiratory system.

Disadvantages of a brick oven

The main disadvantage of the brick furnace is considered long time to warm the cold room. Since this construction is much massive than any metal convector, then it will be needed for heating at times more time. Only after that the oven will begin to give heat.

Another disadvantage can be called a potential to choose carbon monoxide with improper operation.

Where in the house is best to install the oven

Before starting work, it is necessary to decide in which place of your home it will be located. For example, if you place the heating structure in the middle of a large room, then it will give much more heat.

If you build a stove at the wall, and most people do, then the floor near it will go cold air. Some prefer to have a furnace between several rooms so that the furnace plane accounted for a dining room, living room and bedroom. However, in this way, only relatively small premises can be trapped.

In advance, it is necessary to envisage the placement of the furnace door and other parts of the operation of the operation, you should unhindered to use all the oven nodes. Most often, the door is placed in a few rooms, for example, in the kitchen or in the corridor.

What materials are used to masonry a brick oven

Preparation for the construction of the furnace - the event is troublesome, but pleasant. You will need to decide on what material you will fold the furnace, which solution to use which doors and other elements to purchase.

First you need to decide which brick will be used. It has several types:

• Ceramic is the most common and popular stove material.
• Silicate - brick grade, which is categorically unsuitable for the construction of furnaces.
• Fireproof - well suitable for facing furnaces. Most often, they pave a brick furnace and fireplaces. May be refractory, chammed and other.

IMPORTANT! Choosing a type of brick - to give up the hollow and hollow types. They are not durable enough.

Next matter you need to decide on the solution. Most often, for these purposes use clay. For ceramic brick - red, for refractory - special chamotte clay. You can buy ready-made mixes in construction stores and dilute according to the instructions.

Some chimney masters still prepare solutions for masonry with their own hands. To do this, they mix the river sand fractions of one and a half millimeter, clay and water. The proportion of sand and clay - 2.5 to 1.

Separate accommodation is bought from extra accessories (special lattices, which in the future will be located between the furnace and confuse); Doors for the firebox and ponded, sage, valves and dampers.

For the construction of your furnace, the following tools will be needed:

• plumb;
• measuring tape;
• trowel;
• spatulas of different sizes;
• metab;
• wire;
• level;
• metal segments;
• taras for solutions.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is necessary to decide where the heating structure will be located. From the location selection depend on its configuration and sizes.

When planning, it should be remembered that the chimney should not be near the rafter floors - closer than 15 centimeters. Otherwise, trouble may arise.

An important element of any furnace is its foundation. By area, it should be over the oven itself. The basis is also necessary to provide pre-waterproofing.

Make the foundation for the stove

The foundation can be made of any brick, some live shops are used for its manufacture rubbank.

The most durable will be the oven, the foundation of which was laid together with the house in which it is located. It is worth noting that both foundations are laid separately each other. Otherwise, the sediment of the wall walls will entail a violation of the heating device geometry, hurts its integrity.

If the stove will be built in the ready-made home, then you will have to overcome several difficulties. If wooden floors are equipped inside the room, then they dismantle them at the place of construction. A possible indentation from the external contours of the future furnace is 15 centimeters.

1. Harvested for the foundation. Its depth depends on the climatic conditions and the level of soil freezing. For medium latitudes of Russia, the depth of 0.8 meters will be optimal. The pits are covered with a layer of sand in 15 centimeters. The 15-centimeter layer of rubbank is full. Both layers need to be carefully tumped.
2. The next stage in the corners of the future stove sticks wooden stakes, they are fastened with obreshetin. It turns out a peculiar formwork for the foundation. Her walls should be coated with polyethylene so that cement does not flow into the slot.
3. Go to the fill of the foundation. Concrete solution interfere with the cement of M-400 brand, sand and rubble. It is important not to overdo it with water, under consistency, liquid concrete must have an average fluidity. Otherwise, the strength of the foundation will be less.
4. The mixture is poured into the formwork, compact and align the surface with the rule.

IMPORTANT! The top edge of the base of the furnace should be located 15-20 centimeters below the floor level.

A few hours after the initial grasp, the formwork is wrapped in a film. It is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the concrete solution, it takes several weeks.

How to fold a simple small oven

Such a compact and lightweight stove is perfect for heating a small country house, cottage or garage. Its design is extremely simple and does not have gas revolutions, the heat transfer level is not high. It will warm the room for a maximum of 16 squares.

For such a furnace, there is no need for a powerful foundation. It is enough for you to lay the rubbank to a depth of 15-20 centimeters and pour it with concrete.

The oven dimensions will be 2 by 2.5 bricks, which is approximately 51 per 64 centimeters. Due to the lack of a pensive chamber, it is necessary to drill holes in the door for the furnace.

Construction Features:

• The order of such a stove is easy. Follow the bricks to the brick to close the seam between the two bricks under it.
• On a number 8, the fuel can be labeled. To do this, use ¾ bricks. And as a result, the exit from the combustion chamber has an area of \u200b\u200bone brick.
• The ninth level is also placed as the seventh. That is, a whole brick is used.
• The tenth tier will be specific. Bricks on it are not plaffing, but on the edge, strictly along the contour of the recess on the row below.
• On top of the tenth tier, bricks are reiterated traditionally - plafhmy. For its calculation, two whole bricks and four are needed. Thanks to this location, you will join the smoke canal.
• Next, bricks again put on the edge, and the smoke canal is divided in half. In the section, the laying of this level will resemble the eight on the calculator. On the next tier bricks again plafhmy. Alternating masonry method in this way, five rows lay out.
• The next four rows of bricks are plastered.
• In the last two rows, the smoke is narrowed in such a way that in the section its size is exactly half a brick (12 by 12 centimeters).
• The smoke valve is made, the steel pipe smoke is attached to it.

How to fold the oven with a cooking surface

Build a furnace, equipped with a cooking surface, can also be used. The easiest option will have dimensions of 78 per 53 centimeters. That is, a width of 2 bricks, and in length in 3. Despite small dimensions, you can place one burner on this unit.

The base of such a furnace should be 10 centimeters more than the dimensions of it. And the foundation is made in such a way that the first row of bricks go from the floor level.

If under the house there is underground a height of more than half a meter, then do not need to dig the foundation for the stove. You can make a formwork for the soil and put on the bottom two layers of the rubberoid (it will protect the design from moisture). Next poured concrete and give the foundation at least a week for drying. After that, you can proceed to laying.

Construction Features:

• The starting series is installed on a clay solution, a thickness of 5 millimeters. Aligning it in terms of level, proceed to the second. On it, it is also necessary to leave the place for the door pissed.
• Before installing to the door, screw the wire, the ends of which are placed in the seams between the bricks. This will provide better fixation.
• Since the metal in a preheated state expands, it is necessary to leave the gap between the edges of the masonry and the door. The frame of the door itself before installation is wrapped with asbestos cord.
• The third row is placed in such a way that the bricks overlap the seams of the previous tier. At the same time, the installation of perforations.
• A number of number four differs from the previous one, as the walls are formed on it. Bricks on it are stacked on the edge, while it is important to observe the "dressing" of the seams.
• The chamber for the furnace is the smoke. In order for in the future the opportunity to remove ash from it, the brick in the back is put without a solution.
• In the chimney make two stands of bricks debris so that the inner partition is relied on them.
• The stones of the number 5 are plastered, do not forget to leave the place for the door to the furnace.
• During the laying of flue channels, be sure to clean their interior from the speaker clay with a wet rag. Otherwise, the course of smoke will be broken.
• On the eighth tier, it is necessary to carry out the door to the flue chamber. Do not forget to place the wire from it in the seams. On the same tier, the installation of "smoke tooth" is recommended. It is a brick with a beveled end, thanks to him he enhances the heat transfer and slows down the exit of smoke to the street through the pipe.
• When putting the ninth row, it is necessary to establish an asbestos cord, covered in a clay solution. It sewers the junction of the cast iron plate with brick masonry.
• On a tenth row, a cast iron plate with a burner is placed on top of the fuel.
• Row No. 11 is notable for the fact that a smoke valve is mounted in it, the circuit of which is also compacted asbestos cord and clay.
• In the last two rows of brick masonry, the walls of the chimney are formed. There, then the pipe is placed.

Upon completion of the construction of the stove, you need to dry. To do this, it opens all the doors and valves, after which they leave for a week. Next, produce a test furnace. Use a small amount of chips and twigs.

Order or construction scheme of your stove

In the construction of furnaces, everything is exactly the same as in any other construction work. It is necessary to start with the preparation of the drawing. In this case, it is called "order", is a schematic image of each row of brickwork with a top view.

Roughly speaking, if your oven from the base until the end of the chimney consists of 20 rows of bricks, then before assembly work you need to make themselves 20 schemes. Without a friend, the successful construction of the furnace is almost hopeless.

In the network and specialized literature you can find hundreds of various drawings. They can be made independently - under the size of their homes and your needs.

To do this, it is worth knowing that each furnace consists of the following parts:

• The furnace is a furnace chamber in which fuel is laid. It also occurs the process of its burning. From thought it was separated by grinding. It has a direct connection with the inner channels of the furnace, according to which the smoke is directed from it to the street.
• The confusion chamber is the cavity of the stove, according to which oxygen is supplied to the furnace, which is necessary for burning firewood. The burnt remains of fuel fall into it through the glands.
• Devices for cooking and water heating - are embedded optionally, depending on the purpose of the furnace device.
• Cleaning chambers - cavities required for collecting and removing soot.

Facing a metal furnace brick

Metal furnaces, unlike stone, not so heavy and quite simple in the installation. Their disadvantage is that they are driving in the process of firebox and quickly give heat into the surrounding room. Also quickly they cooled.

Moreover, according to scientists, the thermal radiation coming from them affects the person is not as favorable as soft heat emanating from bricks. Moreover, there is no lingerie on such a stove and do not dry.

In Russia, the practice of cladding metal furnaces with brick masonry is popular. Of course, the properties of such heating structures will not be such outstanding as a full-fledged stone stove. True, the negative effects in the form of overheating and radiation will become less.

IMPORTANT! Most often, iron furnace cladding is produced in the bath. It allows you to save well and time, and money.

Construction Features:

• For the facing of iron furnaces, the same brick and solution is suitable as for the construction of their "ceramic" fellow.
• The construction of the foundation is optionally, and depends on the dimensions and mass of the future furnace. If the outdoor overlap of concrete - 1-2 solid rows of bricks are placed on it. Give dry.
• If you want to build a furnace to the ceiling - you need to digging and fill the foundation.
• The construction platform should be 8-10 centimeters around the perimeter more than the poorer.
• At the corners of the base, 4 beaches are exhibited, they will be your labels during brick masonry.
• A brick "case" around the iron furnace should be 10-12 centimeters more than it. Between them should be free space.
• After completing the plain, the design should be good to dry without extraneous heating.

Conclusion

A homemade brick oven is an effective and environmentally friendly tool for housing and cooking. In the XXI century, they did not lose relevance, and continue to serve to millions of homeowners faith and the truth. It is worth remembering that any furnace will work well only in a well warmed house. Otherwise, all the thermal energy will go through the slits on the street.

In addition to useful properties, the stove is a unique interior solution. She will give you not only heat, but also an indescribable feeling of comfort and aesthetic pleasure.