The windowsill is the final element in the process of mounting the window. There are many types of window profiles and structures on the modern construction market. And for each of them manufacturers produce window sills that are optimally suitable for the window installed. The windows and window sills made from PVC are in great demand. This design has significant advantages, in addition, PVC does not take much time and does not require a mass of effort.

In order for the installation of PVC window sills with their own hands, it is successfully necessary to comply with the technological process. In addition, the wall material and window opening as a whole affects the features of the installation. The nuances are associated with the material from which it is completed.

General requirements for installation

Regardless of what material the windowsill is made, there are several general recommendations. Their compliance will make it possible to correctly perform the installation of the PVC window sill, will prolong its service life and facilitates the work itself.

1. Installation of the window sill is carried out inside the room and the lower part of the window opening.
2. At a distance of 60 mm from the edge of the windowsill, it is necessary to perform a technical deepening through which water will be removed. This will not moisten the wall under the window opening.
3. The final mounting of the window sill is possible only after the lower plugs are prepared.

Before installing the window sill, it is necessary to determine which method will be installed. Work on self-installing windowsill can be divided into:

1. Installation for a special composition. It is an outdated way and no longer applied in practice.
2. Fastening with self-drawers, with the help of which the windowsill is screwed under the frame. The lining is put on the wall. Empties are filled with construction foam.
3. Installation on spring metal brackets. These mounting elements are screwed to the window profile on the tapping screw. In the resulting groove, which turned out between the lower part of the frame and the bracket, the windowsill is inserted.
4. Installation using self-tapping screws and metal brackets. The peculiarity is that special lips are installed before the windowsill will enter the frame tightly.

Each methods have features and limitations. So, you can not install the windowsill in the frame that the sash is movable.

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Preparatory stage and its features

At this stage, you must perform measurements of the windowsill and purchase material for self-installation.

Required tools:

• building level;
• electric jigsaw or petties with small teeth;
• self-tapping screw;
• electric or rechargeable screwdriver;
• metal plates;
• special lining (wooden bars or very dense synthetic material);
• assembly construction foam;
• pistol for foam;
• silicone.

The size of the system is performed by a tape measure. It should be larger than the width of the window opening by 5-10 cm. It should be noted that if when installing a wide device, the heating radiator will be closed, the air flow movement will be disturbed, the temperature will change. Therefore, the most acceptable width is the one that will allow it to perform from the level of the wall no more than 8 cm. The length of the product should exceed the distance between the slopes so that the element can enter it by 2-3 cm. In addition, it should be outside the slope by 5 cm.

The design itself can be different: smooth, ribbed, rough. It all depends on personal preferences, the appearance of the window and the style of the interior.

At the same stage, it is necessary to remove the entire garbage from the bottom of the wall to which the windowsill will be installed. If there are extended elements of the plaster need to be removed. If a rather large gap was formed, it must be embedded using a solution. Further installation can be conducted after its final pouring.

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Installation of the windowsill PVC

So that the finished windowsill approached perfectly under the window opening, it may be necessary to cut it. You can do it with the help of jigsaw. If the windows offered in the store are not suitable in the store, you can cut it with your own PVC profiles. To do this, use the jigsaw. With the help of roulette and pencil, the profile is reusable for the required size with an additional margin of 5 cm and the cut. Prior to this, it is necessary to carefully examine the source material for damage, cracks, deflection and chipping. Sliced \u200b\u200bpart, which will later become a windowsill, should not contain any flaws.

The cut line should run behind the rigids that are located inside the profile. It must be taken into account when marking. Otherwise, when installing the windowsill may not work with the rope with a rigid connection. The incision itself must be accumulated carefully, so as not to cause damage and defects of the profile surface. When installing, the safety regulations should be followed and all sawing works can be performed in glasses, in order to avoid minor particles into the eyes.

The lower part of the slope must be cut out if this part of the work is performed on the entire height of the window opening. After that, the garbage should be removed. If when mounting the slopes, the height of the window sill was taken, then this procedure can not be performed. Wooden bar can use as pads. Its height should be determined by the density density of the window sill to the frame.

Wedges for mounting should not go outside the wall. To do this, so that they do not move during the installation process, they should be fixed. The element is stacked in the resulting groove and tightly pressed against the window box. The distance between it and the walls should not be more than 4 mm throughout the perimeter of the adjoining. In this case, the parts of the product that directly contact the wall should be in a dense connection with it without gaps. In order to avoid deformation of the design, metal strips are installed, which are included in the bottom stop.

The windowsill is a mandatory element of any window opening, performing both decorative, so in many cases and practical function. After all, this is one of those places where flower pots are often located or other minor household items.

In the past, the openings were decorated most often wooden products, and with the advent of plastic windows of space in the interior began to occupy window sills from similar material.

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC products

pros

To the advantages Products include the following properties:

• the material is not afraid of moisture and temperature differences;
• it does not require special care;
• the design has low weight;
• does not require periodic tint, and also not subject to shrinkage and warning in contrast to wooden products;
• the windowsill can be set any length, widths and shapes.

Minuses

• plastic is inferior by strength to the same wooden products;
• when using a glossy decorative film with a glossy decorative film, the windowsill is easily scratched and its appearance will deteriorate;
• hot objects delivered by negligence (for example, removed from the fire of a pan or frying pan) can significantly damage the surface.

Installation methods

Installation of plastic window sill can be performed one of several ways:

1. With the help of a special solution. This method was often used in the past, now, due to the emergence of new, it is practically not used.
2. Using spring bracketswhich are screwed to the wildcard profile with self-draws, and the windowsill itself is installed in the groove between the window and the bracket.
3. With the help of screws. This is the fastest way at which the windowsill is attached to self-drawing to the window frame.
4. Another option - installation of the window sill without any fastening elements (bracket, screws). This is the most costly method method, but at the same time is the most reliable. The windowsill is fixed using wedges that drive under it, thereby tightly pressing the edges of the plate to the frame.

Required tools and materials

In order to change the windowsill, you need to prepare a small set of tools and materials:

• windowsill and end plugs to connect panels;
• cylinder mounting foam and gun to work with it;
• perforator;
• level, roulette, simple pencil or marker;
• electrolovka or Bulgarian;
• stationery knife;
• cement mortar.

This process is nothing complicated and is performed as follows. On the ends of the stove and along the entire length of the slope niche displaced Using the perforator.

After that you need pry slab montiva Or bother with a hammer. The windowsill is exempted in this way neatly removed from the niche.

Or possible in such a gentle version with the sawing window sill in the middle:

Preparation of the foundation

Mounting work

After the basis is ready, you need to measure a niche and in accordance with the amount obtained cut the windowsillfrom the preparation purchased in advance with the help of an electric bike or a grinder.

If necessary, the thickness of the wedges increase or decrease. The installation of the windowsill must be carried out with the fact that plate must have a small bias in the direction of the room (1-2 degrees). This will allow condensate and water from watering plants to flip on the floor, so that the liquid will not be assembled under the stove.

After fastening the windowsill, the space between it and the base is placed by mounting foam. For better fixation, the slab can evenly press with any cargo.

As a cargo you can put five-liter water bottles in the amount of 3-4 pieces. In this position design leave for 2-3 daysSo that the foam is well frozen, after which it is removed by an excess stationery knife.

It is advisable not to overload the windowsill, since in this case its surface can be deformed.

What to close the foam under the windowsill?

This can be done in one of two ways:

1. Cutting flush foam close up tiled glue solution. If the walls continue to be painted, you need to sharpen the plot plastered with glue. If the wallpaper is placed, the surface is treated with acrylic primer.
2. In the second case, the foam follows close up vapor-permeable ribbon, After that, install the decorative nickname (PVC, aluminum or wooden).

How to make a foam in a solution, find out the roller:

A few moments that should be taken into account when mounting the windowsill.

Working with the perforator is desirable use personal protective (glasses, mittens).

The windowsill should not be behind the plot more than 6 cmOtherwise, air circulation can be broken, which will lead to the fogging of glasses.

Mounting foam will stick much betterIf the surface with which it will contact, pre-mix.

Having familiarized yourself with how to replace PVC windowsill can conclude that this the procedure does not require professional skills. and special tools.

The main thing in this business is to be attentive and do not make a mistake with sizesplates. Therefore, the rule "Seven times will die, once a rejection" more than appropriate in this case.

How to repaired the windowsill - all secrets of the installation, see the video clip:

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How to install window sills on plastic windows quickly and right

Internal window sill is an integral element of any window. It is officially believed that this part of the design is necessary for the additional insulation of the lower joint of the window frame with the wall and to give the window of the completed species. In this article we will talk about what the windowsides are and, since plastic windows we have at least 50 - 70% of the market, I will focus in detail how to properly install the windowsill on plastic windows.

What are the windowsill

By and large, if the masters installed the window frame qualitatively, and the lower gap was well, in a special insulation, this sector no longer needs. Therefore, the owners are usually more interested in the question of how respectfully one or another windowsill will look, well, and of course the price of this pleasure.

Many inexperienced hosts believe that since the windows they have plastic, then the rest of the accessories should also be mounted from PVC (polyvinyl chloride in the people of window plastic).

In fact, you can put any window sills here, the main thing is that they fit in design and you have enough money. Therefore, before installing the windowsill on plastic windows, it will not be superfluous with the main offers on the market:

• Naturally, the most popular material is the above mentioned polyvinyl chloride. The hollow, reinforced with internal ribs of stiffness, is considered pretty warm and durable. With traditional white windows, it harmonizes almost perfectly, and for laminated windows you can pick up a window sill. Plus there is a PVC plate full of acceptable money. Plastic is not afraid of moisture and, if the technology is not broken, it justs as much as the window and the window;

If the choice fell on PVC, it is not necessary to get involved in savings, they are not expensive. The fact is that plastic, like no other material exposed to sunlight. While the windowsill is new, everything will be beautiful, but after six months, the surface of the cheap plastic will change. It will take at least by a minimum, and how maximum still cracks and deform.

• Figuratively speaking, the older brother of polyvinyl chloride is a plastic window sill on an acrylic basis. It costs about 3 times more expensive, but the quality is much better here. No matter how cool, and the PVC plate is afraid of high temperatures, unlike it, you can put hot pots on acryl and even the cigarette forgotten on it will not cause the surface of harm. Acrylic stove is much stronger, its shiny glossy surface looks more respectable. The colors here are barrel, and the palette is sewn;

• Wooden window sill on right is considered the patriarch of this direction. The budget sector is usually used pine. The range of rocks in elite window sills is much wider, it can be golden oak, tick and still with a dozen exotic types of wood. But to say honestly, I do not understand people who put the natural wood on plastic windows. And in general, with a tree, plastic harmonizes badly, except if these windows are laminate under a certain breed of wood;

• A completely different case of windowsill from laminated chipboard or MDF. In this case, here are the same plates from which countertops are made than the designers are actively used. The chipboard will cost a little cheaper, MDF will be more expensive. But MDF is more resistant to a wet environment and I always recommend putting it. Since installing the windowsill if the window is already standing, the task for the home master is quite sat, the people now massively rushed to change the old plastic on the new laminated MDF;

• The polished window sill made of natural stone, of course, looks luxurious, but the prices for them just say the translated. Although if you figure it out, they are not so good in operation. The fact is that the natural stone is unpredictable, there can be stains from coffee or red wine on it, any plates always have a critical point, with a slight blow to which the plate bursts. Plus, the same granite often and dense can slightly phoning radiation. Agree, little pleasant, establish such a "gift" in your own house, and even for big money;

• Both in terms of cost and on the operational characteristics, modern artificial stone is much more profitable. First, it seems to be often different from natural. Secondly, it is more resistant to mechanical and chemical exposure. The reproaches of skeptics are that the artificial stone is less durable, only partly is true. After all, for example, a guarantee for porcelain stoneware starts from 50 to 70 years. Roughly speaking, these window sills can rather bother than to fall apart.

For the stories about manufacturers and prices for all existing types of windowsides, no article is enough. But since it is even an amateur to put a plastic window chassis correctly, I decided to stop on it. Plus, according to statistics, the PVC window sills occupy about 50% in the plastic windows market.

Below, in order to you it was easier to navigate, I compiled a small table in which the most popular and reliable manufacturers of various window fittings with average prices for the windowsill are interested in.

Name of the company	Producing country	The average price for the runplan meter of the window sill	Types of design (not counting white, it is everywhere)
Moeller.	Germany	330 rub.
Werzalit.	Germany	350 rub.
Nico-Plast	Russia	560 rub.
Danke	Ukraine	365 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 11 species
Melenger	Russia	960 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 12 species
Crystalit.	Russia	345 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 16 species
Montblanc.	Russia	60 rubles. (white) 130 rub. (color)	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 10 species
Vitrage.	Russia	350 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 14 species

Mounting technology window sill

The easiest way is to install or replacing the windowsill from PVC and acrylic. The instruction on the installation of MDF, chipboard and natural wood is not much more complicated. As for natural or artificial stone, these materials better entrust professionals, as not every master is capable of installing them.

We dismantle the old stove

Naturally, before replacing the old, who spawned his windowsill to a new one, must first make it dismantling. Do not be afraid, it's a simple, but responsible. After all, than you carefully remove the slab, the smaller the trouble will be with the preparation of the base.

• If there is a wooden window sill, then for it, you will need a hacksaw and mount or a small lomik. You should not knock out the board at once, you can hardly damage the slopes and then you have to mess with them. It is better to make 2 or 3 outbreaks and pull the central part. At the same time, on the sides you will remain small pieces closed in the slopes. These pieces need to gently knock out several blows on the side, to the end;

I often ask if it is possible to replace the woodcut on the woods of the grinder? So to do this in no case. Remember, almost the biggest amount of injuries and injuries from the grinder get exactly when you try to cut a tree with a grinder.

• But in the case of a reinforced concrete or stone slab, the Bulgarian with a diamond disc will be exactly what you need. In this case, an insidious hammer or a small sledgehammer will be useful besides her. Initially, the grinder is made several cuts, if possible through. After that, take the hammer and all this "cutting" knock down from the bottom up. Residues are cleaned with mounting;

• The mounting of the plastic window sill is considered one of the weakest. But before removing such a slab, it should first dismantle the tide (outer window sill) and check whether our plastic is not primarized outside. If they are there, then naturally they will need to unscrew. If this was not found, then you will remain gently cutting the mounting foam under the stove and try to pull the window sill, moving it down at the same time.

A few words about the preparation of the foundation

Do you change the old design or work with a clean sheet, before assessing anything new, you must prepare the basis. In fact, all the preparation lies in the cleaning of dust and garbage, as well as the putty of large chosen, if any.

Some masters advise to make a smooth screed for the windowsill, allegedly on its basis will be easier to set the slab in terms of the level. I tried to install both with a screed, and without it, on a bare foundation.

I will say honestly, there is nothing reprehensible in the screed, it is possible to do, but it's a pity for her spent. After all, by and large there is no difference in whether you will put wooden wedges on a flat base or on the curve. And if you plan to install on alabaster or cement-sandy solution, the arrangement of a smooth screed loses its meaning.

Getting Started

Installing the window sill always starts with fitting. Of course, ideally, it is better to install the windowsill before the arrangement of slopes, while the walls are naked, but it only happens in new buildings.

Since we are talking about how to change the old on a new one, we will have to cut, more precisely, knock out the grooves in the side slopes. There is one interesting nuance here. The instruction recommends, before put the window sill to the plastic window, make wide side tolerances, about 5 to 7 cm from each edge.

That is, we need to make side grooves in slopes at a depth of 5 - 7 cm at the outer edge. It is believed that so allegedly more elegant. If you need to emphasize 1 - 2 windows, then these locations on the walls of the big role will not play.

It is quite another thing when the task is to fully equip all windows in a fairly large private house, and the means are limited. In this case, the additive is 10 cm on each window, in the end, it will turn into a whole excess windowsill.

Personally, I always recommend doing lateral tolerances no more than 20 - 30 mm. Believe me, to ensure a decent appearance, this is quite enough. Moreover, at most windows in residential buildings and apartments, curtains hang, who will completely close all these tolerances.

The side grooves themselves are knocked out to the depth of admission, that is, at that distance on which the stove will enter the inside of the slope.

In order to accurately place and not capture unnecessary, you need to take the square, attach it to the window frame and to dig a horizontal line from the top slice of the groove under the windowsill and ending the outer slice of the slope. This will be the upper boundary of our groove.

It is easiest to do on the discharges of cuts with a grinder to the desired depth, and then knock out an excess with a perforator or a chisel with a hammer.

Plastic window sills can be installed in two ways, with fixation on the window frame and without it. The only difference is that in the first version, the inner end of the window sill, the one that is adjacent to the window frame, is first fixed hard on this robe. Further, the entire installation algorithm is completely identical.

When laying and trimming the windowsill, it should be noted that it should not be per section of the wall by more than 5 - 7 cm. And under the frame itself, the plane is immersed with a maximum of 1 - 2 cm.

Fixation on the frame The case is extremely simple. In the place where the windowsill will lay down to the frame, with a step of 300 - 400 mm, a number of through holes are made along the horizon. After that, the windowsill is pressed against the frame and from the street, through these holes is screwed with long self-draws. Self-tapping screws should enter the body of the plate with no meer than 20 - 30 mm.

But it is not always possible to fasten the slab by self-drawing to the frame. In this case, it is simply inserted under the frame. To enhance thermal insulation, immediately, before reinforcing the slab, I impose a couple of strips of the mounting foam to its installation.

The installation of a plastic window sill looks like this: first insert the slab cut-cut and look like it will lie in the future. You should not worry about curvature on the horizon. After all, the stove is adjacent to the lower edge of the window frame, which is already exhibited by the horizon.

But we need to slightly tilt the plate inside the room, in order, if necessary, the water did not accumulate, but looped out of the windowsill. How much I came across, in different sources the magnitude of this angle is interpreted in different ways. Personally, I make a slope in the area of \u200b\u200b5 mm in width.

The oblique slab itself will be based on wooden wedges. These wedges are usually installed at a distance of about 300 mm from each other. Each of them is cut and customized personally and should come in tight, without gaps.

As mentioned earlier, the stove sits in the groove under the window frame on the mounting foam. After that, relies on the wedges we installed. But before conspiring it finally, check again so that it stands firmly, without distortion and backlash. It is better to tinker now with the fitting of the wedges, rather than then constantly smear the cracks.

To increase the adhesion (clutch) of the mounting foam with any surface, this very surface must be well moistened.

The mounting plate is performed due to the filling of the voids under it by mounting foam. And do not try to blew too much foam, it will not be better from it, it will still come out.

As you know, the mounting foam is being frozen expanding and if this feature does not take into account this feature, then your windowsill can squeeze in the middle. So that such an absence did not happen, after filling the gaps of foam, it is necessary to put a load of about 15-20 kg to the windowsill. It should stand at least 10 - 12 hours.

In the last stage, the cargo is removed, excess the foam extinced from the bottom is cut off, and non-locking slots on the sides in the slopes are spun. Then it remains only to admire your work.

Installation of wood and its derivatives

As I mentioned, the installation of windowsill from natural wood, MDF or chipboard is not a bit more complicated than the installation of plastic. Here you just need, after marking, knock out the grooves in the slopes.

The windowsill itself, if it allows the frame design to preferably fix on the frame or on the base profile, which is placed under the frame. As in the case of plastic, it is done with the help of self-sufficiency, through through holes.

But in this case there is one small nuance: there is such an interesting physical value as the thermal expansion coefficient of the material. So, when we put the plastic window sill on the plastic window there is nothing to be afraid, because this coefficient they have the same.

But in the event of a docking of different materials, as a result of a discrepancy on thermal and humid extension, gaps and cracks may appear over time. Therefore, we will need to be glued to the slab to the slant the so-called damper ribbon, which is designed to compensate for these oscillations.

Naturally, this tape is glued or attached to the brackets, only in places of direct contact with the body of slopes and the window frame. Traditionally, the material for such a tape is impregnated with an antiseptic felt. Although now some masters use foamphol (foamed polyethylene).

A tree, chipboard or MDF is heavier than plastic, so I personally prefer instead of mounting foam to use a gypsum solution, so reliable. Instead of plaster, with the same success, you can install the slab on the cement-sandy solution, diluted in the proportion of 1: 3.

In this case, the instruction will look like this. We knock out the grooves in the slopes, trying on the slab and recess the desired amount of wooden wedges under it. After that, we apply the solution. The layer of the solution should cover the wedges by 5 - 10 mm.

Further along the line of docking with the frame, we apply a couple of strips of the mounting foam. Insert the windowsill with the damper ribbon and press it until it is stored in the wedge. Excess the extruded solution we remove and put the slot on the slopes in the place of docking with the stove.

If everything is done correctly, the windowsill will stand firmly. But some masters prefer to reinforce. They in the wooden wedges from the bottom score a long nail with such a calculation so that he passes through and peeking out on top 10 - 15 mm. The wooden wedge itself is fixed to the basis of the anchor.

As a result, when you finally insert the stove, it is satisfied with the nails sticking out of the wedges and is attached to. Method of attention.

The minus here is only that before installing you need to read everything and check everything carefully. Otherwise, in case of an error, almost everything will have to be done again, because nails will not be allowed to move or adjust the stove.

Output

Now you know how to install the windowsill on plastic windows. In the photo and video, this article presents additional information on this topic. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, talk.

October 17, 2016.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!

In our time, plastic products are increasingly popular. This material is quite practical and reliable, besides, not expensive. If you decide to change the wooden windows on plastic, and do not want to overpay for the installation of the window sill, or just want to install the windowsill do it yourself, then this article is for you.

The preparatory stage includes the measurements of the future design, also all materials and tools, as well as the preparation of the window passage to install the new window sill.

Before buying, you need to do several measurements, namely:

• Width of the windowsill. It is equal to the width of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.
• Length of the windowsill. It is measured as the length of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.

It should be noted that too large and wide windowsill can significantly worsen the circulation of air, therefore, water droplets will accumulate on the windows and their service life is reduced.

From the tools, you should cook or purchase:

• Electrolovka or Bulgarian.
• Level.
• A hammer.
• Corner line.
• Malyary Scotch.

Materials that you need:

• Construction foam.
• Sealant.
• Forkluts.
• PVC panel suitable size.
• Plastic substrates.

Preparation of the surface for installing the windowsill

To begin with, you need to remove the old design. This is done using an electric bike or hacksaw. Next, you need to remove the cement screed around the edges.

Clean the space from the garbage, sprinkled material, insulation and everything else. It will guarantee the reliable fastening of the new window sill. Best of all the foundation for the windowsill speakers, so you are guaranteed to reliably clean the foundation.

If you are planning the installation of the window sill with protrusions on the sides, then you should create small overwhelms so that the panel is easy. At first, it was done with the walls, then the hammer is knocked out the opening of the desired size. Operas should be the same on both sides and such that PVC panel is easily inserted.

After cleaning the base under the windowsill, it should be braced to ensure the adhesion of the solution to align the base.

If you are planning only to replace the window sill, and the windows remain old, then the width and height will be the same as the width and height of the old wooden window sill. You will sufficiently remove it and move the measurements to the PVC panel. If the windows plan to change or new windows are already installed, then the sizes of the windowsill are calculated again. It is important that the windowsill be installed only after installing new windows will be completed. With accurate measurements before cutting, it is important to take into account the fact that the windowsill should go to the window frame for 10-15 centimeters, and the protrusions on the sides should not exceed 5 centimeters. The windowsill should be done under the tilt so that the absolute height under the window frame and the height of the periphery differ in 2-3 millimeters.

Installing the windowsill PVC with their own hands implies cutting material. Cutting PVC can be ordered in a construction store or deny independently with the help of an electric bike.

After you have a carved PVC panel, follow the instructions:

• Cut bars for substrates. They can be both plastic and wooden. Their width should not be less than 5 centimeters, and the length is the same as the width of the base without taking into account the window frame. The substrate thickness is selected based on the height of the window opening and the width of the PVC panel. It should be noted that the PVC panel should be freely placed between the window frame and substrates.
• The optimal number of substrates 2-3 pieces per each meter of length. Before installing them, the base must be aligned.
• Alignment of the base occurs with the help of a cement solution or alabaster solution. This is done so that the windowsill did not have significant irregularities and retained the integrity of the design.
• After the base is aligned, it is checked by the level.
• Plugs are installed every 40-50 centimeters. After that, they are checked by the level in two directions. Supports can be tilted away from the window, but the angle of inclination should not exceed 0.5-1 degrees.
• To check the correctness of the support of the supports, the control installation of the panel is made. If it enters well and go to bed smoothly, then work continues.
• Before proceeding with the fastening of the windows, you should first clean the window frames from the protective film and install on the ends of the plug.
• Supports are reliably fixed, and only after that, the plastic panel can be installed. In order for it to fit as much as possible to the bottom, they tap it with a hammer. After that, again make control measurements in two directions. If the panel went smoothly, then work continues, if there is no - the panel remove and align the supports.
• Small gaps should be left left and right to prevent panel strain. At the end of the work, they are closed with sealant. Clauses should be no more than 5 millimeters. This is done so that the foam does not deform the windowsill.
• All the gaps and emptiness are foam. Some experienced specialists advise to pour emptiness between non-foam supports, but by some solution, for example, plaster or cement. In this case, the support will be securely fixed.
• If you are afraid that the windowsill can be deformed under the influence of foam, then leave some loads on it for a couple of days. Although it should not happen if you left the left and right small gaps.
• After the foam is completely dry, the surplus should be removed with a knife, all the remaining slots pour the sealant, the locations of the window sill with the wall to align and sharpen. So you give your windowsill more tidy look.

In order to better figure out the sequence of work, we suggest you to see the installation of plastic windowsides with your hands video.

Unlike plastic, the tree gives the interior notcing luxury and home comfort. But at the same time, the tree is more severe and capricious material.

The preparation process is no different from the preparation process for plastic window sill.

The plane is cleaned and ground, align and installed supports. The difference consists only of whether the wooden window sill needs even in a metal frame.

A tree is a pretty heavy material. Small blocks of aerated concrete or wooden bars can serve as an excellent support for it. It is best if the gaps between these blocks will be minimal. All slots are pre-pouring cement or gypsum.

So that the windowsill hung in the air and securely mounted to the surface, screws are screwed on top to the base with a distance of 30-40 centimeters. Caps of screws should look out as much as it is necessary for the windowsill tightly lightened to the base of the window frame and did not hang in the air. So that the caps of the screws do not fail inspiring, they are deceived by plaster or cement around. Then, construction foam is applied to the plane. Special attention is paid to the surface under the window, the rest of the space is filled with foam uniformly.

After all the works performed, the wooden panel of the window sill is planted on top, foam foam on the seams. After a few days, the foam is cut, the cracks are flooded with sealant.

Installing the window sill with your own hands on the plastic window involves the presence of certain knowledge, therefore, carefully re-read the instructions and see the learning video before starting.

The installation of the window sill involves such basic types of work as: surface preparation, alignment, fastening of the base, the mounting of the window sill, the sealing of the structure.