How to install the door in the furnace. Installation of furnace door in a brick furnace. How to fix the door in the stove

First row bricks first lay out without a solution, taking into account the seam according to the coach. By determining the position of angular bricks, put them on the solution, using the level of checking the horizontality. Light blows of the queen are sedent on protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontal, fill in the perimeter of the first row of brick on the solution, controlling the laying level. Roulette check the size of the furnace in the plan and diagonal. The diagonal in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then hanged the corner bricks until they achieve their equality, thereby having received the parallelism of the perimeter. After that, lay the brick on the mortar of the first row.

Putting the first row, put the angular bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the angles using a level or a plumb. Similarly, the first row lay out the perimeter first, and then the middle of the second row according to the order. Having posted a second row, clog in the corners in the seam between the first and second next nails with a length of 80-100mm.

Then we lower the plumb alternately to all the angles of the second row and mark on the ceiling of the point, of which the plumb is omitted.

Then they score the same nails into these points, tie a kapron cord to the corresponding nails and stretch it. Checking the vertical cord vertical. If there are deviations, they are eliminating the bending of the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace in space is obtained. The masonry of subsequent rows lead, controlling the verticality of the corners on the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

Subsequent rows put in the same way the first two, each row is checked with a friend. In the course of the masonry, the inner and outer surfaces we clean from the excess the crown of the solution to the craftsman. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the wet rag of the chimney wall.

The thickness of the furnace laying must be as thinner as possible. In thick seams, the solution is painted and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During the masonry, we observe the brick dressing rule. Each vertical seam should overlap the brick of the next top row. Usually this seam passes through the middle of the above brick. This, however, is not always possible to achieve. In some places you have to lay a brick so that the overlap is obtained less than half of the brick length. In any case, it must be at least a quarter of the brick length.

The furnace furnace is better laying out of chammed bricks, because It is withstanding a higher temperature. Pulling the seams of masonry from chamotte and chimney brick is not desirable due to the different linear extension coefficient.

Installation of the furnace door in brickwork

Therefore, from chamotal bricks lay out or completely a number, or make a lining of the furnace on the edge. Between the lining and chamoten brick, we leave the clearance of at least 5 mm.

Installation of clear and configuration doors

Before installing the door, check on the linency adjustment density to the frame, the free rotation of the web in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing the closure of them and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry. Detected defects eliminate or replace the door.

Insert the knitted wire with a length of 50-60 cm inserted into the door holes, we swear twice and twisted it.

On the brickwork at the installation site we apply a solution. We install the door, check vertical and horizontality and fix it with bricks. Then we lay the ends of the wire in the laying seams.

Installation of grate

When installing furnace devices, it is necessary to remember that the cast iron and brick are not equally expanding when heated. This is especially affected by the behavior of the devices installed in the high temperature zone. If they are tightly closed in the furnace laying, then when the cast iron heats the cast iron masonry. Therefore, the grinding door and the slab should be installed with gaps. The grille is placed without a solution with a gap of at least 5 mm from all sides. It should be freely removed to replace in case of exercise or breakage.

Installation of the cooker

The cooker is installed, as well as confusing, only turns around asbestos to fill the temperature gap. Check the verticality and horizontal door and fix with bricks and boards.

With intensive operation of the furnace wire can burn. To prevent this, the top of the door can be fixed using a beater. Clammer makes a barrier with a cross section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears must be beyond the door of 100-120 mm. Klemmer is attached to the door with rivets or bolts with nuts.

Overlapping door hanging around the Pollipich on each side

or brick in the castle.

For opening, more than 250 mm overlap is performed by a wedge.

Installation plate

The row to which will be installed, lay the plate at first without a solution. We put on top of the slab and outline its location. Then choose the groove in the brick, taking into account the temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the plate. Lay out bricks per solution. Fill in the groove with a solution, put asbestos cord to it along the perimeter of the plate, omit the slab to the place and hesitate it with the image, achieving its horizontal level.

Installation oven

The oven is also wrapped asbestos around the perimeter and width in Polkirpich. The side of the oven, emerging to the furnace, is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top of it, it is smeared with a layer of a solution of 25-30 mm to prevent the root of the walls of the oven.

Masonry Arch and Arches

When laying furnaces, it is often necessary to overlap various flue holes, fifthms and all sorts of chambers, using jumpers simple and complex shape. The overlap in the wall is called the arch, and the overlap, suitable between the walls - the arch. The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the arch should be odd. Average odd brick - Castle.

Any jumper starts from the Pyted tabs that are performed by the template. Since the height of the arch or vault is different, then the angle of the fifth changes. It is impossible to use one form of the fifth for all arches and arches.

At these photos, the installation was shown and the laying of arched barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the arch for overlapping a niche for firewood.

It is said that it is better to see once, than 100 times to read, so it was especially for you, I prepared a video guide with my own hands, "where all the nuances of the masonry of the brick oven in the video format are shown.

How to repair the oven.

The Russian oven is a heating and cooking unit with a bed for rest. It consists of a brick of refractory composition, located on a raised foundation and is designed for a long cooling after the end of the furnace. The design is distinguished by impressive dimensions, but in modern conditions it is sometimes simplified up to 2-parts: a cooking chamber and pipes. Typically, the breakdown are cracks in the case, so repair furnaces This type is based mostly on the restoration of their integrity. Do not allow such situations to be carried out by preventive repair, the control of the state of the seams of masonry and the details of the furnace.

Breakdowns of the Russian oven

High temperatures lead to brick structural collapse, if there is even a small violation of the laying technology. Also, the repair leads to incorrect operation and wear of parts. Externally, work failures can be determined by the following symptoms:

reduced thrust in chimney;
there were cracks in the housing due to its expansion during the operation of the furnace;
climbing masonry chamotte brick in the furnace.

A simple repair of a Russian oven can be made independently, if there are at least some kind of construction skills. It is important to understand that small, at first glance, the amendments can turn into a major repairs. This is due to the fact that it is immediately impossible to estimate the entire volume of damage. Sometimes during dismantling of some elements, significant parts of the walls, the foundation, chimney fall apart.

Elimination bad traction

If the bad thrust is associated with sticking the soot, it is necessary to make the flushing of the chimney. You can do your own work, but it is necessary to stock up the necessary devices. First, they can read the chimney from the roof. They are then found in different parts of the pipe mortgage bricks, pull them out and clean the channels. Instead, clear doors can be provided. Mortgage bricks make a slightly protruding. Thanks to this, they are easy to find among other elements of masonry.

Also sealing can break due to the unlocked remover door. All these factors lead to the smoke of the room, so the repair of furnaces and fireplaces is directed first to ensure the traction. When cleaning the pipe, the garbage will be poured into a special niche under the pipe from which it will be cleaned, cleaned. If the thrust has not improved, it means that it is impaired sealing due to not a tightly closed clean door or non-inclined mortgage brick.

Seal, replacement of the furnace door

You can not allow a loose closing of the door of the fuel chamber. The slit even a few millimeters should be eliminated. For such a repair, a solution from refractory clay and asbestos powder (or from clay, cement and sand) is prepared. The grooves around the perimeter are cleaned and filled with mortar. If the gap is wide, it is filled with ceramic cord and a mixture.

Sometimes the firebox door requires a complete replacement. In this case, the replacement of brick masonry is required along its perimeter. Disassembly start from the top horizontal row. They split no more than 3rd row, and in vertical masonry split over the 1st row. Then make a new brickwork with the use of heat-resistant mixture. This type of repair refers to the capital, so it must be done by the master with experience.

Repair of enclosures

The walls of the housing are expanded from heating, and cracks in the seams may appear on the pressure of the heavy camp. They need to be smeared, and you can do it with your own hands, without a wizard call. It is important to impurge the solution correctly so that it does not crumble the very day after the operation of the furnace.

The mixture can be made independently, mixing chamotte clay with sand in the ratio of 1: 1. You can also use purchased dry refractory mixtures, the basis of which are aluminum oxides. Without additives, they are calculated on the temperature to 900 C. However, the parameters can be increased by adding alumina cement. Then the maximum permissible temperature will be 1200 c, and the use for the knead instead of water liquid glass increases this indicator to 1600 C.

The magazine of the slots is carried out with a solution divorced to a viscous state. The gaps immediately before work is wetted with water. Then the spatula is applied with a solution and smash it. The width of the seam can be 5-14 mm, it depends on the composition of the solution. It is important that the coefficients of the expansion of the mixture and brick coincide. Then the cracks will not appear again during the heating of the furnace.

Installing a plate in a brick oven

With independent construction of the furnace, each owner faces the installation of special furnace elements.

Installation # 8212; Very responsible work. But not everyone knows how to do it. Further article will tell in detail about the installation of a good floppy door and all other elements.

The furnace specialized devices include: various for the purpose of the door, grilles grate and different chimneys. They need to ensure burning in the furnace and convenient use of the stove. Therefore, all chimney elements must be highly installed and sound.

Preparation for work

before installing the door, it is necessary to check for the power of its fit to the framework itself, the absence of various distortions, the possibility of good closing fixation, the free turning of the web and the presence of the appropriate holes for attaching the door in the brick masonry furnace;
if there are any defects, they need to be removed or replaced by the door;
it is necessary that the gate hitch will move freely in the grooves and completely close the hole, the presence of cracks in the framework itself;
if you plan to heat the oven only coal, in the Sewer itself you need to drill a hole with a size of 13-18 mm.

Installation features

By installing furnace elements, it is necessary to remember that various materials, such as brick and any metal during heating expand differently. In particular, this applies to the instruments installed in the high temperature zone. If the masonry make a dense, with a strong increase in temperature, the devices will break it. That is why they are installed in such a way that during heating it was possible to free extension without a threat to the furnace.

How to fix the door in the stove

To do this, you need to get a grinding in the opening with an exact 5 millimeter gap. During breakdown, it should be freely removed to replace. Place the grate without the use of the solution, the grooves fall asleep with sand.

Work process

Installing a high-quality furnace door. To this process, you must consider with full responsibility and seriousness. It is most of all exposed to thermal and temperature expansion. Therefore, it is necessary to install it so that the space in the stove is most closely overlapped and a reliable mounting of the door in a masonry was carried out. Such an oven door is fastened by clemmers that are made of steel.

At the bottom of the door can be fixed with steel wire having a diameter of 2 mm, subsequently close it with a solution. The top of the door can not be fixed with the wire, since it will be pulled out from the effect of highly high temperatures.

Clammers produce from steel. All the ears should look out behind the door of 10-12 cm, and they are attached to special rivets. The lower part of the door can be fastened with a wire with a length of about 60 cm. Before you start installing the door, you need to wrap the asbestos frame. The material can be used in the form of a cord, crumbs or sheets, wetting water before use.

In the exact place of installing the door, you must apply a layer of clay composition on the masonry. When using wire, the ends are hiding in the seams. Be sure to level the installation horizontal and fixed with a wooden rail. One end of this rail is placed on the door frame, and the second masonry brick, the brick is put on top to it. Next, the bricks are laid out for the solution, gradually laying the door in the surveying of the stove. Each row starts from the door.

Oven

The oven is usually made from strong steel. The gaps are determined using a level, the frame turns around Sheet asbestos having a width of Pollockich. The plane of the frame at the top must coincide with the surface of the laying of the last row of the brick, therefore, if necessary, the asbestos layer should be increased.

Gearing must be installed on 25-30 cm below the flue hole with a slope toward the heat door. The fuel is attached to the shape of the trough, and the slits located between the grains should be along the fuel.

So that the grate does not destroy the laying when heated, it is necessary to leave the gaps of 5 mm, which then fall asleep with sand. With the help of a solution, the grate is not fixed!

Infrequent and together with her, the clean door is set similar to the door of the furnace. The confusion door is practically not exposed to high temperatures, so it needs to be tightly and firmly closed into the masonry stove, processing the seams using a clay solution. The horizontal frame is also determined using a level.

Installation of cast-iron kitchen stove

Absolutely all stoves are installed strictly for the construction level. For installation, it is necessary in the top row to push the groove, corresponding to the size of the plate and having a gap of 5 mm on each side. No sides of the plate cannot be clamped, since during heating it will change and mow the opposite side. Use clay asbestos solution. They must also be pushed the entire top of the slab around the perimeter.

Repair furnace with their own hands.

The construction of the furnace in his house is mainly engaged in specialists, as a last resort, you can do it yourself, if there are any experience and competent drawings.

But any person can do repair the furnace with their own hands. After some time, with the next inspection of the heating source, the problem was noticed and understood that it was time to repair the furnace with their own hands or some part of it.

Make a good repair of the furnace with your own hands, eliminate any drawbacks can everyone who dealt with solutions and bricks.

Repair furnace with their own hands.

A small repair of the furnace with their own hands or the fireplace implies such works as: replace the burned grinding, shock cracks or chips, replace worn out doors, valve or individual burnt bricks.

Over time, the masonry stove cracks the cracks appear, the solution from the seams begins to crumble, it is necessary to urgently make the repair of the furnace with their own hands. In this case, the gaps should be expanded using a shabra, during the expansion process, remove the old solution.

Removing the garbage and the dust of the slot is wetted with water, then shuffled with mortar. To control the integrity of the furnace, it serves her whitening with lime, the appearance of any crack or through crack will be noticeable on a blotch in the form of black.

Repair of the furnace door.

After some time, the cooler door was covered, the furnace repair is required here with their own hands using a solution and, if necessary, new bricks. It's time to change the old floppy door to the new one, for this it must be accurately reach with the box and fastening wire.

Doing the repair of the furnace with her own hands first gently remove the bricks around the box, also those who are poorly held on the base, are stagged or split off.

If the fastening wire rotched and dropped, then it needs to be replaced with a new one. The most suitable version of the fastening wire for the frame of the cooler door is the thickness of it must be composed of 3 mm.

For a good fastening, the wire should be inserted into the opening of the box, then twice, leaving small ends for fastening the frame in the masonry furnace.

So that the wire does not eat and the door do not break out, its ends should be beatened at an angle and put it in the high brick. Then bricks and place where there was a box of the door were purified from an old solution, dust, dirt and wetted with water.

Making the repair of the furnace with their own hands laying the box of the coil door with brick, you need to securely fix it in the opening. For this, the size of the opening for the box is made as accurate as possible with the minimum slit.

The gap between the furnace box and the opening for the box should not exceed 2-3 mm, since with a frequent opening and closing of the coaching door, with a large gap, the solution can fall, the door box is again loosened and will need to repaid the furnace with their own hands. After replacing the floppy door, all the seams and having cracks are carefully embarrassed by a solution.

Repair of fireboxes

If earrings should be buried only to replace the lattice to remove the old to clean the place and put a new one. By producing furnace repair with your own hands on replacing the lattice, installing a new one in place, it should be considered that the metal is expanding when heated is compressed when cooled is compressed.

Installing a new grille to the stripped place, you need to leave small gaps and fall asleep with sand. Making the repair of the furnace with their own hands on the replacement of perforations should be thoroughly clean the source of heating - furnace

Inside the furnace of the stove or fireplace to maintain heat is laid out with a refractory shamot on the edge or if you are lucky, you can find an ancient chimney brick that keeps the high temperature well. This material heats up for a long time can save heat and provide a normal temperature indoor.

To ensure uninterrupted operation of the furnace or fireplace, it is necessary to occasionally inspect the heating source, inspect the masonry for the presence of cracks, aged or burnt bricks or other defects, and if it is necessary to repair the furnace with their own hands - fireboxes.

If such damage is detected during the inspection of the furnace, it is impossible to postpone the repair of the furnace with your own hands indefinitely. On time, the defects of the internal space of the flue separation will ensure the preservation of its heat transfer and safe use.

When repairing the laying of firebox, it is important to which the corresponding building material you use.

In the combustion office in the process of combustion of the heating material, a very high temperature is formed. Therefore, repairing the furnace repair with your own hands it is necessary to correctly choose the cement brand, which can withstand large temperatures.

For such repair, fireboxes are on sale refractory cement or pyro-cement. Depending on the damage and for what work the solution is prepared depends on its depends on its depends.

To fill the cracks or cracks, a thick solution is prepared, if it is replaced by the burnt bricks to new, then the solution should be prepared a little more easier. Time for using a solution prepared for repairing one hour.

Repair Borov.

Often we forget to inspect the gas gas system - Borov in the attic. Violation of its masonry, the formation of cracks or cracks contributes to the smoke of the furnace. The brick in the gas gas system may fall off, the solution in the seam in the seam is in consequence of the impact of waste gases or climatic conditions.

In this case, you need to make the repair of the furnace with your own hands. Provide smoke unhindered output through a gas gas system.

For this, the defective seams should be carefully cleaned from the old solution and soot, remove the garbage and dust, then wetted with water and shuffled with a thick solution.

For the best reliability of the gas gas system, the masonry damaged place should be shifted again.

No comments yet!

So, last time we looked at the overall algorithm of work during the independent repair of a brick oven and stopped on the repair or replacement of the flue door. It was paragraph 4.2. It should be noted that almost all problems with the fiber doors are rarely independent and, as a rule, accompanies a complex of problems: problems with brick masonry around the heat door, destruction and cracking of bricks, choking and destruction of seams.

Often, these bricks are either completely or partially destroyed and also require replacement. Therefore, at the beginning, before installing a new or replacement of the old door, you will need to replace bricks. How to do it? It depends on the method of installing the door you choose. There are several methods that are discussed in detail in various sources, I will only briefly describe them: the first way is classic and quite common - on wire. In the photo below, this wire is clearly visible, the only one notice, here I captured the process of dismantling the old door and partial laying disassembly

For the best result I use the wire from the nichrome - nichrome. This is the brand of steel x10n80. It has good plasticity and heat resistance. As practice shows, such a wire "stands" in the furnaces of decades without any problems. In its absence, it is possible (?) To use and other steel, but I categorically not recommended. In his practice, repairing old furnaces, I even met the floppy doors, fixed on the copper wire. The process itself: to the frame of the door joins the wire with a diameter of less (two to three times, approximately) than the thickness of the seams of the masonry of your oven. In the overwhelming majority of the coil, there are already openings for fastening the wire. However, if you suddenly get the door frame without holes or you consider the factory location is not convenient, this is not a problem. Cast iron, as a rule, is very well amenable to mechanical processing. You can drill the holes you need by conventional metal drills - as a rule with high-speed steel tips. Do not forget to cool the drill in emulsion (oil) - it will last much longer. The obvious disadvantage of this method of installing doors and other cast-iron accessories is high difficulty: you need to climb the wire in the tensionable state into the masonry on sufficient length. Each case is individual, but as a rule it needs to be done in no less than two bricks in length. And this, already a very large plot of masonry under the bulkhead, if you consider that you are just as forced to replace the ranks from above.

More progressive methods for installing the cooker doors suggest the use of sheet stainless steel, or sliced \u200b\u200bwith special plates with flaws, which will keep the door engaging for the laying and in the consequence these plates are screwed up with self-drilled holes in pre-drilled holes, or one-handed-made pre-manufactured and installed on the door frame. In the second case, the thickness of the stainless sheet is less than in the case of installation on the plate. For the greatest reliability, a combination of one of the last methods is possible. The first way using wire and the second using the shell, suggest a partial, but essential laying discoulding and is possible preparations of the bricks on the part in the required size. This means that the door, for example, with a stainless shell, is inserted into the opening of the masonry - this is done by the movement from top to bottom, and you need a space from above, since the cumier of the shell plane is already bent before. Do not forget to place between stainless steel and brick masonry, on all contacting planes, thermally insulating fire-free material (silica fiber or similar). It is needed not only to protect against high temperatures, but also to ensure the damping of cyclic linear extensions of the metal when heated. There is also a way to install the door only on a self-tapping screw (or bolts) However, personally, I categorically disappointing it, assuming it extremely low reliability. From General Recommendations It is worth noting that the tight installation of the door should be avoided in the masonry and sealing of the slots of the grinding solution - the fact is that the door heats up and strongly and quickly, due to the high thermal conductivity, so it can damage the brick when expanding and destroying masonry seams. Sealing such gaps should be made with a non-rigid refractory, which I described in the first part of this article. In any case, producing manipulation with masonry, you should be careful and remember that the bandage of a common array, at the expense of which it is kept due to the load distribution, not a panacea, and the collapse is possible, so the remission of bricks to be replaced is required to be carried out with caution, in some cases to install the backup and other auxiliary devices. I sometimes use a simple automotive jack and a few pavements, but it is already from the discharges of small tricks.

I was a little interested in a story about plumbing and undeservedly tried the mastery of the Mason. Here are some important tips and recommendations:

In general, when replacing doors and other fittings, you have a relatively small amount of paperwork, but from this, no less responsible. Observe all the necessary and well-known recommendations for the selection and preparation of the material. The masonry must be done with the dressing - that is, the vertical seams of neighboring vertical rows should not be each other, here is an example in the picture.

Even a primitive or not completely neat "lock" of a brick over the open door, better than just masonry. And it is not at all permissible to leave the brick entirely hanging over the opening, for example, on some metal record. As in this image:

Useful advice - take advantage!

When you make partial repair of the furnace, with dismantling of its individual items, as a rule, it is possible to clean it with hard-to-reach places. This feature must be used. So, in the case of removal or door, or the hob of the flooring becomes an affordable High zone and space after it. Higho is a hole in the fuel cell through which flue gases leave. In practice, it is noticed in the zone after High, on horizontal surfaces, a sufficiently large amount of ash accumulates. It can easily be deleted manually using a fir-hand tool.

Substitution, installation of other furnace accessories, such as confusing and clean doors a significantly more simple operation, except, perhaps, the replacement of various types of valves, however, a separate article will be devoted to this very difficult question.

4.3. Repair of the fuel. One of the most vulnerable and responsible places in the furnace - after all, it is there that the fuel is combined and it is there that bricks are susceptible to the greatest thermal loads, therefore it is not surprising that they are previously destroyed, especially if the fuel is not a fume with refractory brick and made from the usual, "red »" Furnace "brick. This is an even more complex and responsible type of repair. Well, if you repair the "Swedie" (warm cooking oven with cast-iron flooring) and you have the opportunity to freely replace old bricks on new ones. The situation of the heating furnace is much more complicated (Holland's oven (Golanka, Galanka, Gulanka and other variations of the name, from which my ears are folded into the tube ...), which does not have a "visible ending" in height and most likely it rests on a certain constructive Convective furnace system in the form of a download camera, a bread chamber and / or a smoke collector or simply a system of channels - as often happens. Speaking by a simple language is just a heating stove. Sometimes they are called - a column. Note that this furnace, this "column" can To be not only square in the perimeter, but also rectangular. It directly depends on what room does this furnace play. So, if you decide to engage in self-repairing of the fuel ..., it categorically not recommended to do this without insurance - a partner. Please observe precautions and safety . Oven, especially in age, can prevent many unpleasant surprises and the visible strength of the outer surface of the masonry may be just visible only. In addition, masonry refractory solutions do not always allow you to easily remove the bricks, many of them are sintered, turning the fuel or part of the bricks into a single integer. Therefore, not as self-workers, but exclusively assuming good intentions, I would advise you to trust such a type of repair by professionals, and even better - the Pechick, who folded you this stove. All this applies equally to repair the arch of a Russian oven, which is part of its fively and has the highest difficulty in terms of repair, since there are the laws of dressing and load distribution work not as in a simple vertical brickwork. Speaking in a simpler language, the arch can collapse, create as a card house, even if you remove the only brick or even his piece or remnants of the rooted brick. In general, the fuel repair is a replacement of bricks. The scale of this repair is purely individual, depend on the quality of the source materials, the professionality of the liver, which built and repairing the oven. Very often, precisely on the basis of the critical wear of the fifuel, it is necessary to decide on the complete dismantling of the furnace.

Installation and fastening of furnace

But usually, everything can be repaired and restored. If the fake was not a lounge, then changing and destroyed bricks change and, if necessary, a lining is performed, for example, in this photo (this same furnace, which is in the first photo), or simply changes the old lining if it has been provided.

In this case, for the lining used bricks of the Sha-6 brand. These bricks will protect the red, non-neopore bricks of the furnace wall, will slightly increase the heat capacity. Unfortunately, they will also slightly reduce the volume of the fuel, but this victim is a forced and negative effect of it much less than the destruction of the carrying wall of the furnace. Also, this problem is solved fairly easy - one, two additional halter during the furnace. There are other options for protecting the fively, but I will tell you about the next time, at the beginning of the following article. Watch for updates on the site!

Making furnaces with their own hands

(From pissed to the flugark)

Not only fireplace chiiter, but also other furnaces and accessories - doors, valves, oven and even a plate and a grid, if desired, can be made or ordered in a locksmith workshop.

Slab The necessary sizes of experienced cooks are advised to cut out gas welding of sheet steel with a thickness of 10-12 mm. Then cut the edges to the edges. And the burners do not need to do. Such a stove, in contrast to the cast iron, never cracks. Large thickness will not let her get over. On a well-haired plate and without burners, the temperature is quite sufficient for cooking. And open burners, according to the owners, only pollute the cooker's coat.

Installation in masonry homemade valve. Frame from thick wire does not allow to break the clay seam of masonry.

Fig. 1. Like and guide frame.

Fitting (Fig. 1) any sizes can be cut out of sheet steel with a thickness of 4-5 mm. Guide frames for them bend from steel wire dia. 6 mm according to the drawings.

Masonry furnace

In fig. 1 Damn dimensions for chimney with a cross section of 250 × 130 mm.

By the way, for purchased valves in bricks, you need to make special grooves, pusing them with a hammer-bladder or
Drinking "Bulgarian". And when installing homemade valves, this time-consuming operation will not need.

Fig.2. Grate.

Grid grate (Fig. 2) You can type from the segments of the rod with a diameter of at least 12 mm, paving the M8 nuts between them or the washers with a thickness of at least 6 mm with holes in dia. 7 mm. At the ends of each rod at a distance of 12 mm from the edge, drill holes with dia. 6.5 mm. Then the rods with the washers are put on two nails dia. 6 mm, 200 mm long and split them from the side of the tip. To relieve riveting, preferably sharp ends of nails cut off or fasten on the sandpaper. The length of the rods are selected at the place. In this case, it must be remembered that when installing a grate grid in the furnace between this grid and masonry, there should be a gap of about 5 mm on a thermal extension.

Instead of a confusion door in small furnaces and fireplaces in some cases, it is advisable to apply an ash box made in the form of a scoop (Fig. 3). The body is cut out from sheet steel with a thickness of 0.6-1 mm. On the lines shown in Fig. 3 strokes, fade board and edges. Drill holes for rivets. At first, the housing is gluable, then the front wall is sticking to it, the top of which is rejected along the bending lines, making a comfortable wide handle.

Fig. 3. Solo box.

The ash box must enter into pushed so that its front wall is tightly overlapped.

With the help of this device, you can easily remove the ash accumulated in the puff.

With regard to fire safety, the ash box is also preferable than the door. After all, with an increase in air access, it opens only the top pissed, the bottom remains closed and burning coals cannot fall out from pissed to the floor.

Fig. 4. Flugarka.

Fluugarka not only decorates the headguard of the pipe, but also protects the chimney from precipitation, and also prevents the "tipping" of thrust into windy weather.

To protect against atmospheric sediments, the pipes, as well as the prevention of the "tipping" of thrust in windy weather to the pipe, is set to the so-called flugark or smoke cap. In fig. 4 shows how to make a fluorque for a pipe with a chimney size of 130 × 130 mm (in the fourth).

For the manufacture of the fleame take a sheet of galvanized roofing steel with dimensions of 580 × 1000 mm. Lock the axial line and 100 mm from the edges marked the line of folding petals (see Fig. 4, fragment I). From the axial on both sides on the fold line, there are points at a distance of 50 mm. Then, from these points to the axial on the fold line, 30 mm is layered. On the edge of the sheet of axial, 70 mm is laid out. Connecting the lines the obtained points as shown in Fig. 4, get marking of all petals. For beauty and reduction of sailiness Fluagark cutting in large petals, you can break holes. It remains to cut the petals on the placed lines and bend - small inward, large - outward at an angle of 90 °. Make holes for fastening and bend at an angle of 90 ° sidewalls. Now, to get a beautiful bend, it is necessary to turn an annealed steel wire into the mounting holes and pull it the sidewalls to the distance between them at 380 mm. Flugart is ready. It is installed on the headband of the chimney parallel to the ridge of the roof and on the cement solution inside the other row of bricks are laid.

The most difficult in the manufacture of handicrafts are brass cabinets and doors. In the table for the unification of the drawings and facilitate the calculations, the main dimensions of the openings in brickwork under the framework of various doors are given.

Table of sizes of openings formed in brickwork
Pieces under configuration, clean doors, mm	Pieces under the coil doors, mm	Operas under the frame of wind wardrobes, cooking cameras, mm



* Design parameter of furnaces.

Fig. 5. Spirit cabinet.

Fig. 6. Cleaning box. Fig. 7. (Upper) Option of the welded door with a steel corner frame. The loop sleeves are pulled out on the lathe. Fig. 8. (Right) Option of sheet steel doors.

The oven (Fig. 5) is usually made from roofing steel on rivets or welding. The doors for the oven can be better made by two-dimensional, as shown in Fig. 5. In order to avoid charging to the walls of the oven, they stick or stick to the point welding of the corner at a distance, a multiple of 70 mm, so that the regiment of the corner is at the level of the horizontal seam of the masonry. From the inside to the side walls of the oven, too, you can stick or weld the corners for the installation of the beam, pallet or grille.

To facilitate the cleaning of the furnace in the masonry, the box is installed (Fig. 6), which is usually made from thin roofing steel. It is easier in performance than the door, and a tightness. Cleaning includes a housing in which a box is tightly inserted with a handle. Inside the boxes sometimes put a piece of bricks on a clay solution.

Doors can be performed in two versions - welded with a frame from steel corners (Fig. 7) and riveted, made entirely of sheet steel (Fig. 8). Both variants are shown in the figures. For the furnace door, it is necessary to use a thicker metal, the thin steel will quickly procee. The infancy door is less susceptible to high temperatures, so it can be made from relatively thin metal.

Folding the oven is one thing, but install additional structural elements is an equally important part in the construction of the furnace. This work is very painstaking, does not allow any errors or inaccuracies, and how it is conducted know a few. This article takes the purpose of clarifying all the main points and options for installing the door to the brick furnace.

Turn

The obligatory elements of the furnace include gate valves, grate and itself - the door that is needed to lay the fuel in the furnace, adjusts the burning and prevents the fallout of the head of the furnace.

Install the door in the furnace

Preparation includes the following necessary steps:

Before the installation itself, you must examine in detail the door itself and the fastener frame (de facto take the fact that the door is already made under the required dimensions). The cracks, the doorway and the frame are unacceptable, its plane should be smooth and tightly luxury not only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe castle, but also throughout the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the frame;
If the unsatisfactory state of the door is detected or, if possible, the defects are eliminated;
The door itself should move freely in the fastening elements. There should be easy closing-opening;
If the stove is made only under the coal, the opening is drilled in the door - 13 mm. in diameter. This hole will be intense for gases formed during anthracite combustion.

The door is exposed to the greatest effect during the operation of the furnace. It carries mechanical loads, as well as reinforced thermal. In order for the durability of the flap, the following instructions for each attachment should be followed as long as possible.

On nichrome wire

Nichrome has greatly proven itself in solving this issue due to increased resistance to heat and while maintaining its plasticity in the form of a wire. Such a fastening with a guarantee will last 20 years. How to fix the door in a brick furnace:

The main disadvantage of this method is that the wire must be kept in a stretched state and gradually close in the seam between the bricks. Length wire is one and a half or two bricks. The whole process is very laborious.

On the design of sheet stainless steel

Installing a brick furnace furnace door with this method has the most frequent distribution. The frame is a design that is the same with the door on geometric dimensions, but the frame plates have special bourges. Performed from the corner, one side of which is placed in the distance between the bricks, in the masonry. Next, everything is missed by a solution.

The way to correctly attach the door to the oven on the profile criminal can be combined with the first - on the wire, in this case the fasteners will be reliable, and durable.

On screws or bolts

This method takes place, but in the liveshche environment it is the least common and reliable. The fact is that the framework of the frame and the door itself is very heavy, especially if it is made of cast iron. This method is applicable in the question of how to fix the door for chimney in the furnace, and not for firebox.

The door and the masonry should have a small buffer, since the heating of the frame in contact with the brick will lead to its curvature, as well as damage the screws - they can bend and get out of the place of the overall. In this case, the door will recover from the masonry.

Features of installing the door in a metal furnace

The main feature is that the same metallic materials are used. It is desirable to pick up for the door exactly the same material as for the stove. Most often it is steel with a carbon content of 0.06%, also relevant to the use of cast iron.

In this case, the door is attached without a frame for simple hinges. Their main constructive reliability.

Each owner of the brick oven will independently choose options for installing the door. But the priority is the methods of installation on nichrome wire or using metal structures. These methods guarantee durability and reliability.

It is very important when the furnace is erected properly install furnaces. This will protect you and take pleasure from observation of calmly crackling firewood or coal in the furnace furnace.

Stoves - confusion, furnace and clean doors, grate grating, gate (chunk) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease of operation of the furnaces.

Before installing the door, check for:

♦ Frame adjustment density to frame;

♦ free rotation of the cloth in hinges;

♦ no skew;

♦ the possibility of fixing their closure;

♦ The presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

The chimnery gate should be freely walking in the grooves and tightly block the hole, the frame should not have cracks.

When installing furnace devices, it is necessary to remember that the metal and brick, heating, are expanding unequal. This affects the behavior of those devices that will be installed in high temperatures. If they are tightly closed in brickwork - with raising the temperature, they will break it. Therefore, the grille, flue-door, the oven and the cast-iron flooring is installed so that when heated is provided,

an expansion of them without impact on the masonry. For this, the grille is placed in the opening with a gap of at least 5 mm from all sides (Fig. 108).

The grate grid should be freely removed to replace in case of exercise or breakage. It is placed without a solution, and the grooves are filled with sand.

Special attention is paid to the installation of the heat door, since it is most exposed to the action of thermal expansion, and at the same time it should be installed so that the coarse space is tightly overlapped and reliable fastening it in the masonry. Fasten the flipping door with curvature steel (Fig. 109). The bottom can be fixed with a steel soft wire with a diameter of 1.8-2.0 mm, but it is necessary to close it with a solution. In the vertical part, the wire is difficult to protect from the effects of high temperature - it will quickly be abrupt.

Clammers are made from strip steel. Crazymer's ears should be beyond the door of 100-120 mm. Fasten the beam square to rivets frame. In the bottom hole of the furnace door, you can insert pieces of steel wire with a diameter

live so that they fall into the laying seams. Check the installation door setting - the top plank frame must be horizontal - and fix it with a wooden rail. One end of the rails put on the door of the door, the second - on 3 bricks, laid plastics, and put a brick on top on the rail.

According to the co-solution, put bricks, starting the masonry of each row from the door, gradually close it in the furnace array.

Installing the confusion and clean doors in the same way, fasten with a steel soft wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm, laying its ends in the laying seams. The infancy door is little exposed to the action of high temperature - the expansion of it is slightly, and since it should herdedly overlap the flooding space, it is tightly lit into the masonry, closeing all the seams with a clay solution. It is necessary to strictly unstelling the horizontal framework of the framework frame.

Oven, as a rule, made from sheet steel. Therefore, when heated, they will strongly breed, if you do not leave the gaps for expansion. They set them in terms of the level, the frame is wrapped with a moistened sheet asbestos width in the Pollipich, an asbestos layer can be increased, just to the upper plane coincided with the plane of the masonry of a brick row, which is placed overlap.

The cast-iron plate on the kitchen and heating and cooking furnace lay strictly in terms of level. For stacking it in the bricks of the upper row, the grooves in the size of the plate with a gap of 5 mm per side are pushed. It is impossible to clamp even one of the sides of the plate - when heated the opposite direction will be combined. Better * Putting the plate on the clayas-scale solution. To prepare such a solution, they make a liquid clay pulp, an asbestos crumb is added to it, bringing the solution to the desired consistency. The top of the kitchen plate around the perimeter is watched by the same solution.

Sewer valves are placed so that the tightness of the channel overlap or the chimney is ensured. In bricks, grooves for the frame with a small gap

rum on the extension. Well put the valves on the clayabesto solution.

provse.news.

Three ways of different ways to mount the door

Masters prefer to embed chimney elements as follows: with the help of fasteners of stainless steel, "on the corner" and the like.

The first way. Mount the filling door on the wire

Installation of the cooker

The main thing in this way is to choose such a wire so that it does not burn. It is best for this purpose nichrome. It is heat-resistant and plastic, so it will last long.

The wire is rushing into the holes in the door frame.

The thickness of the wire is selected depending on the thickness of the laying seam. Wire thickness is not more than 1/3 of the seam. To stick in the masonry firmly, we have a wire at an angle to the opening effort. The wire built in this way will not give the door of the chance falling out when opening. This is the way "on the corner".

The length of the wire must be long enough - on 2 brick thicknesses. If you have to change the door - this is the main minus, as it is a lot to disassemble.

The second way. Installation of the door on stainless steel plates

Installation of the furnace door on the plate

The plates have flanging, which clings to the door frame. Plates are attached to bricks on screws. The mount should not be tight and hard, since the plates are susceptible to compression and expansion at changing temperature. Rigidly fixed elements can destroy the masonry. Running thermally insulating material between the plate and bricks. A silica canvas fit well.

There will also be a combined method of mounting the door, that is, if you add a wire mount here.

Third way. Fastening of the coil door on bolts or self-tapping screws

This is the fastest and most unreliable way of fastening the furnace door. You just screw the door through pre-drilled holes to the laying.

General Council for all ways. Since the door expands when heated, it should not be mounted in the masonry too tight, otherwise at high temperatures it is capable of destroying this masonry.

What to livel the slit of the mounted door? Asbestos use in melting workshops. Temperatures there are very high. For wood and coal homemade stoves, this material is not required.

We reviewed three ways to mount the furnace cooker: Wire, with steel plates and bolts or screws. All methods have their pros and cons. However, the most reliable is a combined: on wire and steel plates.

How to install a flue door, three ways to lay bricks

You can buy a chimney in Nakhodka in our store "Cobbleshop" at the coal address, 59. Here you will find a cast-iron stove plate, doors for furnaces, ovens and other stovety products.

magnat4.ru.

Types of flue doors

Today, all the doors used in the furnaces can be divided into several groups that differ from a specific feature. For example, manufactured products from a variety of materials are made:

One of the most common materials for the furnace doors is cast iron. Such products are quite popular for many decades. However, they are distinguished by such disadvantages as a large mass, inconvenience of use, considerable volume of products.
The second group can be ranked iron doors. Usually such products are used in the arrangement of the stoves in the baths. For home stove, iron doors are not used because they have a relatively small number of positive characteristics.
Also, furnace doors are made from panoramic glass. Today, such models have received the greatest distribution. They are sufficiently light, and also provide a full overview of the flue space.

On the last version of the door for the furnace should pay special attention. Their advantages and disadvantages should be described, as well as to highlight the varieties of such products.

Benefits

The main advantage of the door with panoramic glass is a high heat resistance of the material. It is worth noting that this property does not have products from cast iron. This quality is one of the determinants, because the effectiveness of the heating unit depends on it. Glass can withstand considerable temperatures for a long time. This is distinguished from stainless steel.

Other advantages of panoramic glass used in stove doors:

High degree of refractory. According to this indicator, such devices also exceed the cast iron products.
It is also worth paying attention to that to increase comfort and giving the interior of the arbor comfort, it is important to have a hearth with open fire. However, with a simple stove, the flame can also be in sight. To do this, fuel doors are installed with glass. You can also mount them in the bath.
Another positive characteristic of such products is absolute safety when used in the bath. Production uses special glass that contains crystal ceramics and quartz. This makes it possible to eliminate the explosiveness of the material.
Compactness and small weight of products are also the essential advantages of doors with glass inserts.

The negative sides of such products include the brittleness of the glass. During installation, you should closely monitor the safety of the glass. In addition, when the door is installed in a bath stove, they need to be operated very carefully. It is impossible to clap with such structures.

Often, the owners of the stoves with a panoramic door face the rapid glass contamination. This property is another disadvantage of such products. On the material quickly settles the cootter layer, which must be considered.

As can be seen, the positive sides of the door with glass is much larger than negative. That is why they are very in demand today.

Installation of glass door

Before installing the door with glass to the stove, it is worth checking the ease of its opening. When tight movement, it should be developed. This will allow you to use the door as convenient as possible in the future.

Usually in small heating devices, the temperature does not rise quite high. In addition, the frame is not experiencing an open flame. For this reason, the expansion of standard furnaces is minimal. Even with the discovery of a piece of wire near the door, she holds in its place very tight.

There is an effective method for fastening the coil door, which eliminates its loss. It is necessary to stick to it special plates from the bottom and from above. It is better to choose products with expanding edges. Once all actions are performed, the plates in the brick should be squeezed.

Installation of the furnace door is performed in stages:

First, put the grate grid.
After that, plates and wire are attached to the door. As soon as the preparations are completed, the product is installed on the solution.
After the wire and the plates are bred to the inner walls of the cooler camera.
Other ends of metal elements are laying on 2 bricks, pressing on top of one brick.

The door angle is checked with a plumb. Then the latter wire is being missed into the hole of the door. It must be twisted enough tight so that the rings are not formed. Then the wire lays into the hole in the first edge of the brick. Then, on the solution, it is pressed with bricks from above.

Selection of doors

The first thing is to consider when choosing a door for a brickwork, the heating temperature, which will occur in the furnace. Due to the increase in temperature, the product will expand. Other factors should also be taken into account. There is an important rule for selection for furnaces.

The gap between the door and the stove wall must be minimal. It is filled with basalt cotton wool or asbestos. In addition, it is worth considering some recommendations of professional cookies:

To look at the flame, you should buy cast iron products with glass inserts. However, it is necessary to prepare for the fact that the product will be expensive.
For heating devices on corner or mixed fuel, cast iron products should be chosen. If the stove is token by firewood, you can use glass or steel.
To improve security, it is better to purchase a metal structure that has a heat shield. In this case, the maximum temperature of the outer surface of the door will heat up to 40 degrees.
In order for cracks in the glass, when installing the door with a seal, you can leave a small space between the product and walls. This will exclude the appearance of cracks even with strong overheating.

Such tips will help install the door to any furnace.

bOUW.RU.

What is the flue door?

Doors for furnaces - indispensable attributes in the construction of stone structures. Thanks to the door, the furnace becomes more efficient, including:

reduces warming time;
saves fuel;
furious coal or firewood do not fall on the floor.

Back to the category

How to choose?

The brick furnace can be equipped with fuel doors made of various materials whose features are presented in the table:

Name	Benefits	disadvantages
Cast iron	The air intake nozzle from the room joins, thereby ensuring the full tightness of the fuel chamber	Term of use lower than the rest
	The door can be bought either personally make
Iron	Holds warmth perfectly, has a high level of fire safety	It should be periodically to cover anti-corrosion heat-resistant paint
	Relatively inexpensive cost
	Will last for a long time, you will not need to repair or replacing the furnace door
Glass	Can withstand large temperatures for a long time	Very quickly polluted and rather fragile, so when installing should be extremely careful
	Good from aesthetic point of view, since it can be observed for fire
	Do not explode, thanks to the use of quartz and crystal ceramics

Back to the category

Preparing for the installation of the furnace door in a brick oven

The door must be freely open and closed.

Some doors can be very tightly open and closed. Therefore, before starting the installation, it should be developed to use it in the future it is more convenient. But there are still some details, which are specified before the start of work:

Check the adjustment density to the frame, while avoiding distortion. Turning the web must be free.
The movement of the gate shift occurs without difficulty and completely closes the hole. The frame should not be cracks.
If only coals are used for the furnace, the opening is 13-18 mm in the sebar.

Back to the category

Types of mountage

The process of installing the furnace door must be treated with all seriousness, since it is more than the rest of the components undergoing thermal expansion. It should be fixed securely and so that the space of the brick oven completely overlap. There are several ways to mount the doors in brickwork.

Back to the category

On wire

For installation, the nichrome wire is fits optimally.

There are cases when the furnace has to disassemble and collect newly due to the fact that the flue door fell out. It happens when it is fixed with aluminum wire or stranded wires. The live shops with extensive experience advise to use nichrome material, as it is flexible and rather heat-resistant. To install the door in this way you need:

Provine the wire into special holes in the door frame (if there is no, then you can easily drill). The product must be 2-3 times less than the stamping seams.
In the laying of the wire at an angle to the opening effort. In this way the door will not fall.

Back to the category

With the help of elements of sheet stainless steel

Installation with a stainless steel is more progressive. They have the form of plates with flames or whole shell. Filming plate cling to the door frame. Elements should be fixed in brickwork with the help of self-samples. The plates have a property to expand and shrink when the temperature changes, so the mount should not be tight, as it leads to the destruction of the masonry. Between bricks and stainless steel, thermally insulating material is laid. The silica fiber is best suited.

To obtain the most reliable result, this method is combined with mounting on a wire.

Back to the category

On screws or bolts

This method is the fastest. It is enough to dry up 4 holes of the desired size, fill them with asbestos cord and screw the door to bricks with self-draws or bolts. The filler can also be used by the other, the main thing is that he has a heat-resistant property. This method is unreliable. If you resort to it, you will have to replace the flue door after a short period of time.

etokirpichi.ru.

Very often, the furnace is shifted only due to the fact that the coil door fell out of it. Typically, the doors fall out because they are fixed with weak aluminum wire or stranded wires. Sometimes metal plates are paved over the door opening and they are screwed off the wire. Plates and wire from fire are burned, then deformed, leave the masonry, and the door falls out.

In indoor furnaces, there is not such a high temperature, and the door frame is far from the fire and therefore its expansion is insignificant. Even under the stone-coal fuel, the door fastened the wire and did without asbestos. Despite the fact that part of the wire near the door is naked, the door stands quite firmly. For a larger warranty, you can drill holes in the door frame closer to its edge. There are various ways to fasten the flue doors.

The best way to avoid the door dropping is when it is installed on top and bottom to stick to it metal plates with a thickness of 2-3 mm with extended ends, then suck them into the brick.

Before installing the furnace door, you need to put three bricks in front of it onto the grille. Doctor with attached plates or wire put on the solution, are breeding plates or wires of wire on the walls, and other ends are put on three bricks and pressed on top? One or two bricks. The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked on a plumb. As a rule, we use a soft, annealed in the furnace or on the fire exactly elongated wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm, about 1 m long. Pull it easily, the ends, and more than you need, for a pillar or in a bracket, pulling and simultaneously pressing Her to them, then one, then the other end. Inserting into the hole of the door frame, the wire folds twice and tightly twist so that there is no rings. If they still turned out, especially near the door, they need to be filled with a hammer along the entire length of the wire. In a stretched position, pressing the door to the masonry, the wire is inserted into the hammer-made small chip (hole) 1 in the brick edge (5-10 mm depth) closer to the outer edge so that it does not weaken and crash. In the stretched position, the wire with the blades are tightly pressed against bricks in an angle 2 in all rows and on the solution are pressed with bricks, and then intertwined with masonry. You can direct it up. The solution near the door should be a little, the seam needs to do thinner, so it will be stronger to hold. The door is not scary to heat expansion, with such a bookmark it will have more than a hundred years. If the wire is prevented from above the door, then in this place the brick need to be out.

Very often, the coarse doors are faced in the furnaces, because they have a bad constipation (latch), which sometimes falls off after a few days. Even with the correct installation on a removal of the door without constipation begins to arbitrarily open. It happens because there is a heavy handle on the door, and it, as a counterweight, contributes to the opening of the door. To the door does not open up, all sorts of foreign objects are leaning to it - a kocherga or a closed, which begins to smoke and often lights up. Industry, apparently, is not able to invent reliable constipation for a coil door.

I propose an easy way to get rid of an arbitrary opening of the door at least in those furnaces in which the smoke is knocked out by wind from the furnace. This method will help forgetful owners. Close the door on constipation. With incorrect masonry pipe on top of the roof, the wind enters the pipe and knocks the smoke from the furnace. With strong wind, the door opens and the fire comes out with smoke, and sometimes burning coals fly to the floor. Therefore, it is impossible if the smoke from the furnace is knocked out, leave it unattended. In addition, it is necessary to put iron sheet on the floor. To the door did not open, you can make the gas.

During installation of the door in the laying, it needs to be kept closed, but not to constipation. Then you will see how it will open at a certain position. In order for the door not to open with open constipation, the top of the door must be rejected from the vertical position in the direction of the furnace by 2-3 mm. In this case, the heavy handle will press the door to its frame, but maybe in windy weather the door will open, so it is better to make a cap of the cap. Doors can be installed so that they open up the other side. For this, there are two-way constipation in the door. It is convenient if the owner of the left-hander or if they open towards the burning partition, but the latter can interfere with cleaning. To clean the soot you can install the doors with a height of one row, but for cleaning the gas ducts with a wire with a bow of a cloth, they are small in height and are not comfortable.

The hermetic doors fixed in the masonry with the help of glued plates, very heavy. It is difficult to mount such a wire, since they pull the wire from the masonry with their weight, but if you can fix it with the door with the doors so that it is installed with it, and the wire is intertwined with the following two masonry rows. The plates tightly hold the frame with the doors during the masonry. Such doors with wire fastening are dozens of years up to the demolition of the furnace. Sometimes doors, especially old, do not match the masonry and the door is formed on top of the door. In such cases, it is better to raise the door up in a closure with masonry, and under the door put on the solution thin brick fourth or to rush under the door of the brick on all its width, and for wires to push out shallow grooves, rising upwards. Easier and more reliable above the door fold the arch, as they did in the old days.

remstd.ru.

With prolonged operation of the furnace, there is most often more frequently extinguishing grave, loosening, or loss of the fuel door, as well as the warping and cracking of cooking flooring.

The easiest of all change grace. From the fuel part, the excavation became extremely extracted and the new, identical old on the dimensions is installed in its place. However, when installing a grace, it is necessary to position correctly: cone-shaped gaps for ash should be located wide to the top. And I also can't forget that the grace of metal will necessarily be expanded when heated and at the landing site it needs to leave at least 5 mm of free space.

Photo 11.

Until the last time, the wire twists embedded in the seams were the most common way to fasten the cooker and the door of the ash bar. But if the doors of the ash bar are practically not subject to regular thermal and mechanical load, they, as a rule, extremely rarely fall out of the attachment points and get other damage in contrast to the fuel door.

In the process of everyday operation of the furnace, and especially with a negligence attitude to the fuel door (climbing the fifumes in the size of the size of lanes, or other negatives, the fastener of the fastening wire occurs. Standing the same twist, then under the influence of an open flame, no secure wire, in the end, inevitably burns out and the door, at best, begins to stagger, and at worst falls out. This trouble is often accompanied by both partial, or a complete collapse of the brick jumper over the door.

Photo 12.

In addition to fastening furnaces on wire twists, there are still a number of ways to install them. In particular, the thin-walled stainless and, accordingly, significantly more heat-resistant than ordinary, from black steel, corners, as well as on bevels from steel perforated tape. Based on the fact that stainless steel corners are very silent, and the mounting of the door requires certain skills, the method of installation on clemmers is more relevant for repair purposes.

Photo 13.

Klimmer, or Simply put, the usual strip of free-selling steel tape (photo 13), which is attached short, relatively with a thick frame of the door, self-drawn, or that, in my opinion, more comfortable, rivets, diameter 4-5 mm.

Photo 14.

When fastening the tape-klimmer, you need to move as much as possible to the edge frame turned inside the fifume. Otherwise, after installing the furnace device, it will perform from the outer part of the seam.

The seams in which blames will be inserted are carefully cleaned from the old solution and are washed.

Photo 15.

Photo 16.

When installing the door, the curzmers are rented in the calculated seams (photo 16), and the furnace itself is fixed, as a rule, a stack of bricks folded on top of each other.

Photo 17.

Then the seams are minimized to maximum filling and carefully closed. You can use the furnace after installing the door after complete drying of the solution during the time determined by the mixture manufacturer.

Photo 18.

We should not forget that the fuel door, like the grate, is made of metal, which is expanding when heated. Accordingly, when installing the door, from the sides and on top it is necessary to provide for at least 5 mm of space to brick, for tightness, fill in basalt materials.

In case of critical destruction or loss of bricks of jumpers over the door, they should be replaced with the installation in the middle of the jumper of the gas-called "castle" brick, well visible in photo 17. This is a masonry method when the brick is cut into 45 degrees on the ticks and as a wedge or "lock »It is inserted between previously cropped adjacent bricks, significantly enhances the jumper, not allowing it to collapse even in the case of the rash of binding bricks of the solution.

The replacement of the cooking flooring as well as the replacement of the grate, as a rule, does not cause special difficulties. However, in this, at first glance, a completely simple operation, there are a number of nuances. The first is a cooking floor, like a cooler, the fuel door, however,, like almost any metal in the body of a brick oven, it is necessary to leave at least 5 mm of free space for hermoreshit. The second is to seal the gap between the flooring and the brick masonry solution, as often most of the owners of the furnaces are made, meaningless. The solution frozard and lost elasticity with regular cycles of the expansion-compression of the flooring during the operation of the furnace will inevitably collapse and falls out. Therefore, sealing should be carried out by packing cavities by heat-resistant basalt materials.

Photo 19.

The third - cooking flooring of domestic production, especially solid, without burners, are not distinguished by special strength and often crack even after several furnaces. Therefore, despite the higher cost, it is preferable to install cooking hobs of foreign, in particular, Finnish manufacturers.

To remove soot from a convective system, or in other words, smoke-rotation systems, in the body of the furnace, a mandatory procedure should be provided for special technological holes, called the cleaner, in which the cleaned doors are installed. Ideally: every smoke turnover provides its clean door. However, in the process of masonry the furnace, by virtue of various reasons, they can either not be done, or to make an insufficient amount, thereby complicating or making it impossible to clean the heating device at all.

By the way, the sealing of soot in smoke-rises and chimneys, in addition to a significant deterioration of the thrust and critical lowering efficiency due to the reduction of heat transfer from the heated gases, the brick significantly increases the risk of fire, since soot with certain thermal modes has a property flashell and burn with very high, more than 1000 ° C temperature.

Photo 20.

Fire safety rules require cleaning the convective furnace system at least twice a year - at the beginning and at the end of the heating season.

Before installing the cleft door, it is necessary to determine where the smoke canal is located. If the EGO cannot be made by visual inspection, the channel will have to be signed. To do this, the drill is installed fine, not more than 4 mm in diameter and a length of more than 120 mm (brick width) of a concrete, which in drilling mode (the impact mode can damage the brick) in the place of the alleged placement of the smoke channel suture until The drill will not fall into the void. After the borders of the channel are defined, the hole is prepared for the installation of a clean door by removing bricks from masonry, a manner similar to that used when replacing defective bricks.

Photo 21.

If, when installing the cleaning, the door is required to remove half of the brick, then the line of the future fall is first drilled by several holes, and then beat the unnecessary part with the help of a chisel.

Photo 22.

As for the cleaner doors themselves, the market contains mainly cheaper doors of domestic production, in the overwhelming majority of the production of Rubtsovsk (photo 22), as well as imported, mainly Finnish production.

Photo 23.

It is necessary to note that, despite the lower price of products of the Rubtsovsky plant, they do not possess one of, complaint, the basic qualities that the cleaner door should have a tightness. Therefore, nevertheless, it is preferable to establish the cleaner doors of imported production.

Photo 24.

Photo 25.

Next chapter\u003e

hobby.wikiReading.ru.

Wood brick furnaces are still quite common in rural areas, and in other places remote from gas highways and urban central heating. Many brick furnaces are already in operation, some are built, so that the issues of increasing the performance characteristics of individual nodes in particular and overseas are generally important. One of the most common parts of the brick furnace is the cooker, and to be more accurate - its seal. Indeed, the coat door is subject to high temperatures, mechanical shock loads when loading beads. Often, through a brief, relative to the entire service life of the furnace, time, the door begins to hang out, crumbling and even fall out of bricks around it, are formed large gaps. Of course, very smoking cases, as a rule, a consequence of errors in the sealing. However, without them, the seal does not serve too long and requires periodic repairs.

The main, frequently used method of fastening the furnace door in the brick masonry furnace - sealing in the seams of wire "brass", which has been trained into four holes on the door frame. As a more perfect option - instead of wire, motorcycle needles use.
Perhaps, it is also worth mentioning the method of fixing the door with modern metal dowels.

Another pretty simple mixing method - with the help of beammers (paws). Metal strips screwed or stick to the door frame, which are then molded and close in horizontal and vertical laying seams.

The way at first glance is good.

Here it is worth remembering the important rule in the chimney - to take into account the difference in the coefficients of linear expansion of materials when heated. With metal and brick, it (coefficient) varies most and it is necessary to separate these materials relative to a soft fire-resistant gasket. In the past times, it was an asbestos cord, in a pure form or dyed in liquid clay, modern refractory materials are often used - fire-resistant ceramic wools and felt.

Let's go back to the murmerous sealing. If the door frame itself can be isolated, for example, by wrapped it outside around the perimeter asbestos, then the metal stripes of klymmers do not isolate how they become painted the clay solution from the seams.

As a kind of variety, metal elements fixed to the door frame, but not fixed in the seams, and holding the door for bricks. It is already much better - you can lay a refractory cardboard and get rid of cracks in the future. The strength of the seal is also good, the large area of \u200b\u200b"holding" allows you to be somewhat free to handle the wood and a kocher. It is not quite expensive, not complicated and economical in the sense of materials method.

For furnaces folded from simple clay brick, it is more perhaps, and not needed, but in modern versions of brick stoves with a fiber-lined refractory brick, the method is not good enough.

Lining shame shame, we significantly increase its resource, but sealing the floppy door in the latter method, leaves several places where high temperatures affect the clay brick. In the photo above, these are the ends of the masonry, on the sides of the door, on the next - the top and bottom.

The last seal, after five years of operation showed good reliability - the door did not break the door, it stands as inserted, but clay bricks from the inside were collapsed on top and demand a replacement, while the rest of the furnace protected by refractory chamotte brick was worn out of course, but keeps well.

That is, everything is required, the same, but with paws around the perimeter. Something like that.

The method is somewhat more wasteful in the sense of materials, but it is very reliable and can be recommended for use. We will consider it in more detail. So.

What will take.

Instruments.

The most that neither is the usual, a set of plumbing tools, a small cutting machine (Bulgarian) with abrasive discs, thin for cutting, at least one thick for stripping. Protective glasses or what is better - the shield for the whole ... to the whole face. If we want to listen to the eighty of the Beethoven not through the auditory apparatus, add protective headphones or earnings to it - when scrolling the machine, the roar and ringing is a fair one. Something manual for drilling. A small welding inverter with accessories was used, plus thin (2mm) electrodes. I tried MR-3, workers work well, you can of course and special for stainless steel, if not sorry. In the first embodiment, where only bending, without welding, you can do. Yes, beyond the usual marking tool, it would be nice to have a big square, with a side, one to half a meter. It greatly increase the accuracy of marking.

Materials.

Suitable in size, a piece of stainless steel sheet. It is very desirable that it would be heat-resistant. Do not confuse with the "heat-resistant" (scale resistance). The only time in the network was called video of this design, where the author used precipitated stainless steel, very small thickness, something about 0.5 ... 0.75 mm. In this case, it is clear, only the method of manufacturing flexible is applicable, unless you have special tools for welding fine stainless steel.

In the author's version, stainless steel was used by an unknown (and hardly heat-resistant) brand, a thickness of 1.5 mm. Not purposeful, what was. Practice, however, showed a sufficiently high stability of the material. Also, a somewhat excess thickness, however, allows us to use conventional manual arc welding.

Fasteners - Standard bolts or screws M5 with nuts. Perhaps it is better to choose with the heads of most insionant to do not burn longer.

Fastening-box was manufactured in two ways.

First - the total big sweep and by flexible, a certain box was obtained without the bottom and covers. Petals were rejected perpendicular to the walls of the box. The door was installed, the holes were placed and drilled. The door was fixed with the screws and actually everything.

Marking and cutting blanks.
Here, it is worth saying that to obtain a small radius bending, with such a thick material, some preparation of the place of bend is required. Preparation lies in the cutting of the material on the fold line, about three quarters of the thickness, and the cutting - giving the sample of the V-profile. With an angle of 90 or a little more degrees at the base. The only tool is more or less suitable for this purpose - cutting machine (Bulgarian). As for my taste, it is necessary to use a variant with less power and a smaller circle diameter.

Act accounts. The first cut is performed perpendicular to the surface of the material, on the desired depth of the markup line. It is quite difficult to do well the first time. The reside should not be done immediately at all necessary depth, but for several passes, so less the chance to cut through and it turns out evenly. The most difficult to make the very first flat groove. As a rule, it turns out the better than less responsible detail - when working it is worth a somewhat relaxing shoulders and hands and not give a lot of importance to possible small flaws.

After the first propyl, according to him, as a guide make two more passages to the instrument turned each time at 45 degrees relative to the main one. It is about course, but it is better a little more. It is no longer difficult, you just need to turn or turn to the workpiece so that the groove is from our right to left, and not from top to bottom. So it turns out evenly. Well, barrage intercept differently.

Then bend so that the th was inside. To enjoy any rest or guides there is no need, the fold will still go to the place of minimum thickness, they have been wrinkled.

The depth of the first propyl, in the ideal case, should be such that the workpiece on the finished sharp is bent, with some, quite decent effort, but by hand. At the same time, the external fracture surface will be slightly matte, but without noticeable cracks.

The form was cut into, ideally should lead to a complete closure of the walls on the finished gibe.

So, the workpieces were cut off, in the right places were made of cuts, through and for folds. Here you need to be attentive and quite imagine the finished product - a number of folds (their cutting) are located on the opposite side.

After we've gotten with propils, several movements, the box with petals bend along the lines.

We try on the door, placing holes, drills, fasteners. Excess the thread cut off. Mounted screw and nut. M5. The stoppers and the washers did not apply, but if there are doubts, you can put into the center of the cropped.

Now from small trimming screwing corners. From the front side, otherwise the design is somewhat incomplete. Just assigned to the right area with a straight angle, at least a little more necessary and welding, multiple points is fixed. Then more superfluous. Welding seams are cleaned. Sharp edges are dulled.

The paws on the side of the furnace are somewhat large, you can do and smaller.

This seal, after 3.5 years of operation in a brick bath furnace. On the lower shelf of the ash, consider the side. Some scale, there are no noticeable jams and bends, the heads of the bolts in the photo are not visible, but they also dare to assure them in a very decent state. The outer brickwork of destruction does not have a lining all the more. In general, the state is excellent, and given a significantly more intense coating of a bath furnace compared to heating, and excellent. Perhaps this was facilitated by a significant thickness of the material and the overall stiffness of the structure.

The seal, despite the value greater compared to the common ways, is a miracle as good, however, a method of manufacturing a box with paws, flexible, not too accurate. A-priory. It is difficult to take into account to a millimeter, all the evolution of the workpiece in the process of bending and as a result - either the door will not fit or the gaps are vital. You can fill them with the same refractory felt, but it is not a matter.

The second option of manufacture. Welding.

Preparation for installation

Before installing furnace doors, you need to check if they easily open. There are tight doors that are developed over time. I did not meet in any rustic furnace of Russia near the laying door of asbestos. In modern conditions, the asbestos borrowed from industrial furnaces in which it, indeed, is needed that the furnaces withstand high temperatures.
In indoor furnaces, there is not such a high temperature, and the door frame is far from the fire and therefore its expansion is insignificant. Even under the stone-coal fuel, the door fastened the wire and did without asbestos. Despite the fact that part of the wire near the door is naked, the door stands quite firmly. For a larger warranty, you can drill holes in the door frame closer to its edge. There are various ways to fasten the flue doors.

Check door before installing

The best way to avoid the door dropping is when it is installed on top and bottom to stick to it metal plates with a thickness of 2-3 mm with extended ends, then suck them into the brick.
Before installing the furnace door, you need to put three bricks in front of it onto the grille. Doctor with attached plates or wire put on the solution, are breeding plates or wires of wire on the walls, and other ends are put on three bricks and pressed on top? One or two bricks. The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked on a plumb. As a rule, we use a soft, annealed in the furnace or on the fire exactly elongated wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm, about 1 m long. Pull it easily, the ends, and more than you need, for a pillar or in a bracket, pulling and simultaneously pressing Her to them, then one, then the other end. Inserting into the hole of the door frame, the wire folds twice and tightly twist so that there is no rings. If they still turned out, especially near the door, they need to be filled with a hammer along the entire length of the wire. In a stretched position, pressing the door to the masonry, the wire is inserted into the hammer-made small chip (hole) 1 in the brick edge (5-10 mm depth) closer to the outer edge so that it does not weaken and crash. In the stretched position, the wire with the blades are tightly pressed against bricks in an angle 2 in all rows and on the solution are pressed with bricks, and then intertwined with masonry. You can direct it up. The solution near the door should be a little, the seam needs to do thinner, so it will be stronger to hold. The door is not scary to heat expansion, with such a bookmark it will have more than a hundred years. If the wire is prevented from above the door, then in this place the brick need to be out.

Fastening the top of the furnace

The doorway is good to overlap two whole bricks so that they connect to the center of the door. Often over the doors, the solution falls out and the vertical seam is shouted. To eliminate this enough in both bricks in places of laying a solution of the angle of the hammer to make notches-holes. Then, when compressing the solution in the seams, these foxes will keep the solution in the seam and it will not fall. Here shown doors with holes. They can be done by himself, simply drum down in a regular door.
Very often, the coarse doors are faced in the furnaces, because they have a bad constipation (latch), which sometimes falls off after a few days. Even with the correct installation on a removal of the door without constipation begins to arbitrarily open. It happens because there is a heavy handle on the door, and it, as a counterweight, contributes to the opening of the door. To the door does not open up, all sorts of foreign objects are leaning to it - a kocherga or a closed, which begins to smoke and often lights up. Industry, apparently, is not able to invent reliable constipation for a coil door.
I propose an easy way to get rid of an arbitrary opening of the door at least in those furnaces in which the smoke is knocked out by wind from the furnace. This method will help forgetful owners. Close the door on constipation. With incorrect masonry pipe on top of the roof, the wind enters the pipe and knocks the smoke from the furnace. With strong wind, the door opens and the fire comes out with smoke, and sometimes burning coals fly to the floor. Therefore, it is impossible if the smoke from the furnace is knocked out, leave it unattended. In addition, it is necessary to put iron sheet on the floor. To the door did not open, you can make the gas.

Installation features

Fastening the hermetic door

The material is kindly granted by the site: http://remstd.ru/archives/ustanovka-pechnoy-dverki/ Recommended!