Installation of ceramic tiles on your own. Installation of natural tiles: basic calculations and technology for laying ceramic roofs Installation of ceramic tiles on a solid base

Choice roofing baths - the question is both simple and complex. Even a large number of the roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone, without exception, each bath owner is trying to find his own solution. And we do not have our goal to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their opinion - there is no ideal roof, just as there is no and absolutely bad, each has strong and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and complexity of installation.

The most prestigious and complex are tile coverings, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the difference in price by brand may differ factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Variants of coverings with metal and flexible tiles are most often found in bath coverings, and we will dwell on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with brief characteristics cover.

Prices for metal shingles

metal roof tiles

Dignity

Cheapness, quick installation, a wide range of colors and geometric shapes... You can also mention durability, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are made with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6 ÷ 7 years the coating will have to be repaired or changed. Conscientious licensed manufacturers give a guarantee for elite brands of products for 25 years or more.

Flaws

Noises during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical, in the bath no one is going to sleep in a light sleep. And if an attic is made on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly extinguishes sound vibrations... Conclusion - for baths, metal tiles are an excellent roof covering.

It is necessary to transport metal tiles only in a horizontal position, the length of the body should be greater than the length of the material. Carefully unload the roof, transfer sheets only in an upright position, do not allow sharp bends.

We will describe the most difficult method of installing metal shingles - with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use of the attic space, you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most of the baths have the simplest gable roof types, it does not take much time to check their dimensions.

How to do it? First, you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system, the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is hidden without problems by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the extreme rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted, the deflections are corrected while nailing the battens.

Step 2. If possible, process all the wooden elements of the rafter system antiseptic agents complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety performance. For a bath, this is an important factor.

Step 3. Laying waterproofing.

It will protect the insulation layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles, water droplets can get on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-shielding performance. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause them to deteriorate prematurely. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected with a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls, during installation you need to follow the markings, lines are drawn on the front surface. Simple bath roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Begin waterproofing just near the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and fix it with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of the condensate drainage, it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.

The chimney is processed - proceed with the waterproofing of the slopes. Lay the rolls from the bottom up, fix them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow significant sagging of the material; in no case should it touch the mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50 × 50 mm counter battens.

Such a device increases the efficiency of natural ventilation between the roof covering and the battens. Some builders skip this operation, they believe that there are enough gaps between the crate and the covering sheets for ventilation. Both methods have the right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing.

Step 4.

Nail wind boards along the eaves, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For the lathing, you can use boards with a thickness of 30 mm and a width of 100 mm or strips of 30 × 50 mm. The first board or rail from the eaves should be one centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixing the sheets and prevent them from being blown up by strong gusts of wind. The step of the lathing should be equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

Lathing for metal tiles - photo

Nail the first strip at the eaves, check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a marriage. In order to speed up the process of nailing the lathing, you need to cut off several strips along the length of the wave step, they will be used as a template. There is a second method of speeding up work - beat off with a rope with blue parallel lines on the counter grid at the desired distance. Follow these lines when nailing the battens. The ridge must have slats, the distance of the slats from the ridge cannot exceed ten centimeters. The slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roof covering.

The wavelength of metal shingles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet, select the shingles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal roof performance and climatic zone... Around the perimeter of the chimney, you need to make a continuous crate with a width of about 20-25 centimeters.

Step 5. Chimney apron installation.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing; their list also includes metal abutment strips for the chimney. They look like flat plates; you need to cut out the technological folds yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the lower part of the chimney, beat off this value on the plank symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the angle of the exit of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Do not be afraid to make a mistake, while fixing the element, the corner will align to the existing dimensions.

Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe... A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron, through which the water will go into the collectors. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, the upper part is sealed last.

In order to exclude the ingress of water through the stacks of the chimney under the roofing, it is recommended to drown the side strips in the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact of the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Grinder with diamond disc a line (strobe) is cut along the marked place. The saw cut must be cleaned of dust and rinsed. The folded edge of the strip is inserted into the strobe and sealed with silicone along its entire length. This should be done around the entire perimeter. brick chimney... The strips are screwed on with self-tapping screws countersunk heads to the roof lathing. The junctions are the most dangerous from the point of view of leaks, very carefully perform all operations to seal them.

The external apron for sealing the chimney is installed after laying the metal tile. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron, we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two or three hours, this is not the time, due to the savings of which, the entire roof of the bath can be put at additional risk.

Step 5. Installation of hooks for drainage system.

The hooks should be secured even before the installation of the metal shingle drip, this is very important. Cornice strips can be installed immediately after the hooks.

Important. Bottom eaves should drop slightly into the groove. Otherwise, with strong gusts of wind, rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be delivered after the installation of the metal tile.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The total slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length, mark on each holder for bending lines in the desired place.

Let's look at an example how to do this. Let's say the length of the roof slope of the bath is 6 meters, the slope between the extreme holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Place all hooks in a row and line up the ends. On the first mark the bend point, and on the last mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the points with a line, each hook will have a bend mark on it. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during attachment they do not change places. Do not be upset if during the bends it is not possible to maintain accuracy up to a millimeter, the gutter itself will eventually fall into place.

Step 6. An opening for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter, the width of the opening depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a metal hacksaw. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats... Fasten the groove with the metal tabs on the holders. To increase the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is placed under the hole and secured by bending the metal tab.

Step 7. On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to remove the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensate will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.

Step 8. Sheets of metal tiles are raised to the roof one at a time; wooden logs installed from the ground with an emphasis on the beginning of the slope can be used.

If the bath is two-story, then tarpaulin belts should be used for lifting.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the cornice and the end of the roof.

If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, put the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1 ÷ 2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end finishing element will close the unevenness of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, as needed per 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the crate at least two centimeters.

In the lower part of the fastening sheet is made in each deflection of the wave, then the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it goes under the first. This should be borne in mind and do not screw the screws on the extreme waves of metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, feet should be placed only in places where the wave bends.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without undershooting or pinching. The rubber washer should press firmly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9. Installation of skate strips.

They can be flat and semicircular and are equipped with end caps of the corresponding profile. Lay the slats with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters, fix to the metal tile with ridge screws.

Step 10. Installation of end strips.

Align the ends, all battens should be in one line. The planks are fixed to the windshield on one side and to the roofing on the other.

If a metal sandwich pipe is used for the chimney in the bath, then for its exit to the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment- rubber outlet. Its outlet diameter changes by cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How the outlet of a metal pipe is sealed

Step, no.	Description	Illustration
Step 1	Mark the chimney outlet on the roof, cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant on the waterproofing seal, glue it and fix it with metal strips to the battens or battens
Step 3	Attach the outlet base to the metal tile profile and fold it to fit
Step 4	On the underside of the outlet, apply a layer of sealant, install the outlet in place and fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the fixture should be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the flue pipe

If you wish, you can install on the roof ventilation holes... The technology is no different from the above, only the appearance and engineering of the ventilation cap are different.

The final "touch" is the snow holders. It is recommended to place them in areas with a large snow cover, they protect the weir systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave only above the crate. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and battens. They are needed for high strength screw bolts, snow guards must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to mount the brackets on rubber pads, the snow retainer tubes are inserted into the holes in the brackets.

Snow guard prices

snow holders

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing shingles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles take a worthy place, this is a universal-use coating, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloped roofs.

In terms of price, the material belongs to the middle category. Of course, the range of prices among various brands and manufacturers of shingles can be significant, but according to the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All advertising brochures of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only various color solutions but also the shape of the "petals" of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers gives photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5 ÷ 6 years of operation. Do you know why? And because during this time enough dust accumulates between the particles of the crumb for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating, some people may like it - a real "retro-blood". Let it be pleasant, but mosses and lichens "do not like" the roof itself, the root system of plants at an accelerated rate destroys the base of the soft tile. No "modified" bitumen and nonwovens can withstand the effects of wildlife. This means that it's time to save money for full replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work on the back burner, after a few years the plywood will start to deteriorate, the top veneer will peel off. Expensive plywood will also have to be replaced. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the crate, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for cleaning moss, but they simultaneously "clean" the surface from chips and part of bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is also a more expensive version of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
The distance between the rafters of the lathing, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows approximate parameters lathing materials depending on the distance between the rafter legs. The most advantageous is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step crate of unedged boards... So the strength can be adjusted independently, and the price of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will stop at this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its nodes. Flexible roof structures are much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, and this is an additional load. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters with a tensioned rope. Deflections were found - make marks in these places and eliminate them while laying the stepped lathing. The distance between the lathing boards is 20-30 centimeters.

Step 2. Start nailing down the OSB boards.

The base for shingles - solid lathing

Baths are usually small and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of material cuts, which means time and quality. Plates can be fastened with ordinary nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long, there is a desire to suffer and pay extra money for these torments - fix the plates with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy around the need to leave a gap between the plates, they say, it will compensate for thermal expansion.

Don't believe it. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the board if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is the first thing. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter, by which the plate can really expand, are crumpled at the edges without any problems. Try to keep the plates as flat as possible in one plane. But a run of a few millimeters should not upset you, flexible shingles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.

Step 3. Fasten the gutter hooks.

How to do this is described in detail above in paragraph 5 of the section "Rules and step-by-step instructions for the installation of metal tiles." And the general algorithm for installing the spillway system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, fix them with a pitch of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into the metal with a special hammer, it has a sharp tooth, with which holes are first punched in the sheet and only after that the nail is hammered. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5. Installation of shingles must be started from the chimney, lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is implemented as a kit. We strongly advise you to put the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves. It is inexpensive, but it will bring a lot of benefits. Width is approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and stick it carefully, do not bend, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm, if the barrier does not adhere well - use a special liquid bituminous mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cutting line, cut it off, remove the board and glue the piece prepared to the size. You can additionally fix the lining carpet with studs with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the pitch is 25 ÷ 30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15 °, then it is better to lay the underlay on all slopes. The material is laid from the bottom up, the overlaps are sealed with bitumen mastic. On the skate, the barrier must be laid in all cases.

One more point. If the shingle profile has deep cutouts such as jazz, tail, trio, then the underlay should be applied to the entire roof.

Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the studs is about twenty centimeters, do not forget to overlap the slats. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, and the nails should be staggered.

Step 7. Roof slope markings. On the lining carpet, parallel horizontal lines should be beaten off with a rope with blue, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. Such a mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing shingles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of skewing the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to keep it on difficult areas roofs fix wrong sizes stingray.

Step 8. Put a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney, be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.

Step 9. Setting up the starting strip.

This is a very crucial stage, treat its implementation with maximum attention. Perform work from the center of the cornice; the excess will be cut off at the edges. This method will allow the entire roof to be made symmetrical, and this is very important for appearance baths. The starter strip has its own profile and an increased thickness of the adhesive layer. From the back, remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and fix it in a checkerboard pattern with studs with wide heads. 1.5 cm should be retreated from the edge of the dropper.

Step 10... Before starting the installation, the shingles need to be mixed in random order, do not take them in a row from one stack.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. A protective film is removed from the back of each shingle, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally fixed with nails.

Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the shingles, you should pay attention to the fact that their heads are necessarily covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.

There are types of tiles that do not have the protection of the adhesive layer, and it is a little easier to work with them. Drive in nails only at right angles, the caps should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; from the visible part of the shingle, the cap should be located at a distance of at least two centimeters. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11. Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints are additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to saw through the groove, insert metal decorative strips and bend them down. The joints are carefully coated with mastic.

Passage element - fixation

Step 12. Gables decoration. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. The excess parts are cut in a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13. The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then closed with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bituminous mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is pasted over with soft tiles. It can be cut out of an ordinary or broken along the lines of the cornice perforation. Secure the shingles with four studs, two on each side. Place the ridge against the prevailing wind direction.

If the ridge has an acute angle or the tiles are laid during the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be warmed up with a construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be installed at -5 ° C. Do not believe or experiment, work should only be done in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top, slightly wider at the bottom. The wide, flat part of the factory cut will hide all the hand-crafted irregularities.

This completes the work on the roof, you can begin to insulate the roof.

Prices for shingles

flexible shingles

Video - Installation of flexible shingles

Ceramic roofing is very beautiful, but quite expensive. If you are a good craftsman, you can try to save money on editing. Now I will tell you how to install ceramic tiles yourself.

Material calculation

To calculate the number of tiles, you need to know the size of the roof, but not only. The tiles are laid with an overlap, the amount of overlap is determined depending on the slope of the slope:

Up to 16 degrees - from 10 cm;
Up to 30 - from 8;
Over 30 - from 7.

Laying of ceramic tiles on the roof is carried out using counter-battens and lathing. The second serves as a solid base for the coating, the first provides the necessary ventilation gap.

For the lathing, sawn coniferous timber is used with a maximum moisture content of 25%, without knots (SNiP, paragraph II-25-80).

The step of the lathing (and hence the number of boards) depends on the slope of the roof and on the tile model (the order is from 30 centimeters);
The minimum cross-section of the beams for the lathing and counter-lathing is 3 by 5 centimeters;
For complex roofs or long slopes use a square bar with a side of 5 cm.

To calculate the amount of material and its final cost, you can use the services of our company.

Ventilation and thermal insulation

The technology of laying ceramic tiles involves the device ventilation system in the under-roof space. This is necessary so that inside roofing cake condensation did not accumulate, which leads to the destruction of the insulation and the rafter system.

There are two options for the device of the roofing cake. In both cases, the main layers are the same:

Vapor barrier (bottom layer);
Insulation;
Waterproofing.

The difference between single-layer and two-layer ventilation is that in the single-layer version there is only one air gap, directly between the waterproofing and the roof. Two-layer implies the presence of two layers, the second - between the waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of technology depends on the waterproofing material. Immediately on the insulation, you can put only membranes with a vapor permeability of at least 750 grams per square, which will protect the insulation from moisture and drain condensate outside.

note

The total height of the ventilation gap must be at least 20 centimeters. With a two-layer scheme, about two centimeters are left from the insulation to the film.

In addition to the device of air gaps for ventilation of the roof, when laying ceramic tiles, special elements are used:

Skating;
Cornice.

The types of elements are different:

Rigid aerators;
Rolled ventilation films;
Ventilation grates;
Ventilation tiles.

Elements are selected depending on the type and slope of the roof.

Insulation grade and layer thickness depend on the region. Examples (for roofs in the Moscow region):

Minvata P175 (coefficient of thermal conductivity 0.072) - 40 centimeters;
Glass fiber (coefficient 0.044) s windproof membrane- 24 centimeters;
Expanded polystyrene (0.032) - 15 centimeters.

Warming and waterproofing

The vapor barrier layer is attached to the rafters from the inside (from the ceiling) with vertical and horizontal overlaps of at least twenty centimeters.
Fix wooden slats... In the future, when arranging the ceiling, the panels (boards) should not come into contact with the vapor barrier.
The insulation is cut into blanks along the step width between the rafters and placed between the rafters in a spacer.

Installation options for the upper waterproofing layer

Installation of the film directly on the insulation is carried out with the steam outlet side outward, i.e. towards the roofing.
The film should be rolled along the eaves along the rafters, starting from the bottom row.
The recommended overlap for the next row is approx. 10 cm for steep roofs. With a steepness less than 22 degrees, it is increased to 20 cm or the joints are glued with double-sided tape.

note

The film is fixed with a stapler or roofing nails and finally fixed with counter-lattice boards.

Other methods:

When using polyethylene-based membranes, the film is stretched over the rafters with a sagging of one to two centimeters. At the same time, at least two centimeters should remain from it to the insulation. In frost, the film is stretched without sagging.
With a low slope of the roof (within 16 centimeters), a welded roof can be used as a waterproofing layer. To do this, it is necessary to make a continuous flooring and fill it with trapezoidal slats of a counter-lattice up to 5 centimeters thick.

Our work

Lathing and counter-lathing

Along the rafters on top waterproofing film we lay the bars of the counter-lattice with a length of about 1.3 meters.
We fix it with galvanized nails every 0.3 meters, not higher than the marker line on the film.
At the joints of the opposite beams on the ridge, we cut the boards at an angle so that the joint is even. The angle of the cut will depend on the slope of your roof.
Leave a ventilation gap of about 10 centimeters between the beams of the valley or hip ridge and the main counter-lattice.
We put the lathing beams parallel to the earth's surface, starting from the overhangs.
The step between the first two bars (on the overhang) is from 32 to 39 cm (measured along the outer edges of the bars).
We put the third block under the ridge, at a distance of three centimeters from the junction of the counter-lattice bars. If the roof is steeper than 30 degrees - at a distance of two centimeters.
We measure the distance between the second and third timber along their upper edges.
We divide the resulting figure by the number of intermediate bars so that the step between them does not exceed the recommended parameters:

Roof slope up to 22 degrees - 31-32 cm.
Up to 30 - up to 33.5;
Over 30 - up to 34.5.

In the same way, we install the crate on other slopes.

How to install ceramic tiles

Attention: in this article I will only tell you how to lay ordinary ceramic tiles, i.e. on the slopes. In addition to the slopes, the roof also has nodes:

Endova;
Ridge (except for hipped roofs);
Cornices;
Connections (to pipes, skylights, etc.);
The gables have pediments;
Hips and hips have ridges.

The installation of all these elements is devoted to another article.

Tile laying technology:

Check the roof, prepared for laying ceramic tiles, for deviations from the plane. For two meters of the roof, the deviations for the battens of the sheathing should not exceed half a centimeter.
Lay out the tiles on opposite slopes in columns of five to six tiles.
Lay out two rows, top and bottom, without fastening. If the length of the roof and the width of the tiles are not multiples, use the halves of the tiles.
Mark the outer rows of tiles on the battens. Additional marking - after 3-5 intermediate rows.
The bottom row of shingles should protrude beyond the roof by a third of the diameter of the gutter under the eaves.
Lay the tiles from the bottom up. Fasten the first row with screws 4.5 mm by 5 centimeters or anti-wind clamps.
On the gable roofs the tiles are laid in the direction from one end to the other.
On the hips - from the middle of the slope, which must be beaten off with a marking cord from the top to the middle of the cornice.

note

Laying tiles on triangular slopes should be done in the following sequence:

Middle vertical row;
Lower horizontal row:
The second row from the bottom, from the middle to the ridges;
Third, etc. to the top.

What shingles should be fastened with hardware?

Bottom row (cornice);
Upper (at the ridge);
Lateral (at the ends and ridges);
Any clipped tiles;
At the junctions.

If the area is characterized by high wind loads, all shingles must be fastened.

For different models shingles, screws (self-tapping screws) 4.5 to 50 galvanized or universal stainless steel clamps can be used.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands is a long and energy-intensive process that requires highly qualified installer. Moreover, we are talking about expensive material.

Our company has extensive experience in laying roofing, ceramic tiles are no exception. Entrust this business to us, and you will receive a beautiful high-quality roof quickly and inexpensively.

It is far from a secret that ceramic roofing tiles have earned their wide popularity among many developers due to their technical and aesthetic qualities. Confirmation of this can be considered already at least its service life, which can reach a hundred years. So, the manufacture of ceramic tiles is carried out using the sintering of natural materials, so the coating is able to withstand absolutely any impact from the outside natural factors... Of course, like any material, ceramic tiles also have some of their disadvantages, the main of which are the rather laborious installation of a ceramic tile roof, or rather, its individual elements, as well as the need to clearly and strictly follow the requirements of the installation instructions.

Starting work on the installation of ceramic tiles

Starting work with such a material as ceramic tiles, its installation can be conditionally divided into two main stages. During the first, all calculations are performed, and the bulk of the required materials is prepared, and in the second stage, the laying is carried out directly.

The required amount of ceramic tiles for the roof

When for a room such as a bath, the roof may include one, two or more slopes located at different angles. The device of the tiles is carried out according to the overlap-overlap principle, the size of which is influenced, first of all, by the angle roof slope... If you subtract from the entire length of the ceramic part the segment that is necessary in order to form the overlap, you get a value that is called the useful length of the material. The useful width is usually indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions attached to the material.

Having received all the necessary data to calculate the area, you should calculate how much material is required for 1 m² of the roof. The data received should be rounded to big side, which is justified by the need to cut off part of the material.

After that, to the ready-made data, you need to add one more tiled row, which is required for the "fight" and trimming. It is also important not to forget to calculate the number that is necessary for the device of the skate and.

Calculation of the amount of waterproofing material

In the event that a ceramic tile is being mounted with your own hands, it is worth remembering that if the roof slope is 22 degrees, then it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing. It is best to use roll material for this, which is laid according to the principle of overlapping the canvases at a distance of 10 centimeters, letting in the pediment and sloping lines of overhangs of 15 centimeters, observing the overlaps through the corners protruding over the corners of 15 - 20 centimeters. To calculate the required amount of material, you need to multiply the total pitched area by 1.4.

Laying a waterproofing membrane with an indentation of 30 centimeters from the ridge can guarantee the structure normal ventilation. The ridge itself must be equipped with a special insulation tape.

In the area of the chimney passage and the junction of the walls, it will be necessary to leave an overflow in the event that the bathhouse on which the roof is mounted is attached directly to the room.

Calculation of the parameters of the lathing and rafter legs

So, the equipment for the production of ceramic tiles works in such a way that the normal weight natural tiles, which falls on 1 m² of the roof, is a weight of 40 kilograms. This also needs to be added to the potential snow load, especially in specific regions with snowy winters. That is why, when equipping a rafter system, it is important to approach the process very carefully and execute it so that it is powerful. But there is no special need to use an exceptionally thick beam, it will only be possible to reduce the step of installing the rafters. The best solution for rafter leg will become a bar with a rectangular section of approximately 75x150 millimeters. It will be more correct to install installation trusses every 60 - 90 centimeters.

For the device of the crate system, a beam with parameters of 50x50 millimeters is suitable, but you can also use a rectangular analogue (40x60 millimeters).

The rows of battens should be the same number as the horizontal rows of shingles. This also adds another row that will run along the eaves overhang.

Fastening ceramic tiles

The main elements of fastening the coating are zinc-treated screws and special clamps. Ceramic tile sheets must be carefully fixed in places where the wind load is high. It is imperative to fix the lower row, which runs along the cornice line, as well as the row located along the ridge and pediment. In the event that work on laying the material is carried out on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then ordinary elements should be additionally fixed according to the principle of a checkerboard pattern. With such a device, one tile element will be able to support adjacent ones located above and below.

Verification as part of the preparation phase

In order to avoid any errors during the construction of the sheathing system, associated, for example, with the skewing of the material, the parameters of the mounted rafter system must be measured even before the start of direct laying.

First, the direction along which the horizontal laths are located is corrected, placing them according to the principle of a fan. In this case, the space left between the laths should increase towards the larger pediment.
Any deviations in the vertical direction should be removed according to the same fan principle, forming a slight backlash of parts in the desired direction.

Start off verification work stands with sloping diagonals. Provided that their parameters differ from each other, each side of the slope should be measured separately.

Installation of ceramic tiles, details on the video:

The process of laying ceramic tiles

When arranging natural tiles on a base of waterproofing and insulation, it is important to equip the roof with two gaps for ventilation. The first of them should be located between the membrane of thermal and waterproofing, and the second between them and the coating. With this method of installation, all elements of insulation, wood, as well as the tiles themselves will be able to freely get rid of excess moisture, as a result of which the operational period will be significantly extended.

The first of the ventilation gaps can be mounted both with the help of a lathing device and by laying a 5 cm thick edged board along the ridge.
The counter-lattice device is designed to provide the second gap.

The order of laying ceramic elements:

initially, without any fasteners, rows are laid along the ridge. If it is not possible to complete a row of whole parts, the ceramic elements can be cut using grinding tool equipped with a stone cutting disc. You only need to prune on the ground;
through the previously prepared directions, the installation lines of the vertical columns are marked. It is important to outline the line of the pediment and then the lines located through 3 - 5 vertically located rows;
the shingles must be fixed exclusively in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is best to start laying from the lower right roofing corner and move to the left and up;
it is important not to forget about the device and fixing of additional parts intended for the pediment and ridge. Edged board ridge-mounted must not have points of contact with the ridge tile. Elements are trimmed to each other;

The use of modern ceramic tiles for roofing involves taking into account a number of requirements associated with the significant weight of the roofing material used. With all the undoubted advantages of this type of coating (such as, for example, reliability, durability and originality), ceramic tiles can be installed only on pre-reinforced roof structures.

Due to the high weight natural material it is allowed to lay ceramic tiles only on roofs, the angle of inclination of which does not exceed values ranging from 12 to 50 degrees. At large angles of inclination, it becomes necessary to strengthen the rafter system through the use of additional elements that increase the rigidity of the entire structure as a whole.

Preparation of the base

After strengthening the rafter system and immediately before laying ceramic tiles, you will have to perform a number of standard operations related to the arrangement of the so-called "roofing pie".

The list of these measures traditionally includes the following standard operations:

preparation of waterproofing to protect the entire structure from moisture and avoid fungal damage to wood;
arrangement of a heat-insulating coating, which additionally protects the roof from heat leaks through the "cold bridges";
covering the layer of vapor barrier, thanks to which the roof will be reliably protected from condensation.

Waterproofing protection is required for roof slopes up to 22 degrees. When calculating the need for material (taking into account all the necessary allowances), the total area of the slopes should simply be multiplied by 1.4.

To fix the waterproofing layer on the rafter beams, you can use a special stapler used to fix roll materials... In this case, the overlap of each subsequent layer on the previous one should be at least 10‒15 cm.

In order to avoid heat loss through the roof structure, it will be necessary to lay a layer of insulation under the waterproofing, which can be mineral wool or foam plates. When forming this layer of "roofing cake", it will be necessary to provide artificial ventilation gaps. Such gaps can be formed in the intervals between thermal insulation and waterproofing (by building up the elements of the lathing) or by installing the so-called counter-lattice.

When preparing the sheathing itself, you should always remember that it is on it that the tile blanks will be laid in the future, so that the distance between separate bars should be selected taking into account the size of the tile sheet.

When arranging the roof, one should not lose sight of the issue of its vapor barrier, since the presence of condensate in the area of the insulation significantly reduces the effectiveness of thermal protection. To reliably protect the thermal insulation layer from destruction by condensate, an overlap will be enough vapor barrier film within 10‒15 cm.

Before starting the installation work, first of all, you will need to lift all the prepared tiles to the roof; at the same time, due to the large weight of the material, you will definitely need outside help... Upon completion of the lifting of the tile sheets, they should be spread out in small piles (3-4 sheets each) evenly over the roof surface, which avoids deformations of the lathing under the weight of the temporarily stored material.

In accordance with generally accepted rules, tile sheets are laid on all roof slopes at the same time, alternating every two to three rows.

One-sided laying of sheets on any of the pitched structures can lead to an uneven distribution of loads on the warp elements, which creates the danger of damage to the latter.

The construction instructions for the installation of natural tiles contain standard requirements for the order of their installation, made in the direction from the roof overhang to its ridge and from left to right. This order involves the formation of the bottom row of tiles, laid out along the eaves of the roof, without fixing it on the rafter base (crate). A similar technique allows you to adjust the position of the elements of the cornice strip when laying the next row.

When forming individual parts of the roofing, we advise you to pay attention to the following details:

To fix the first and second rows, it is best to use special galvanized screws.
Do not forget to leave a small ventilation gap (about 1.5‒2 cm) in the area of the eaves overhang, which is used to ventilate the under-roof spaces.
To securely fix the eaves and ridge rows of tiled covering, it is advisable to provide for them several additional attachment points.

Chimney connection

Even at the stage of waterproofing placement, the material used is carefully trimmed and inserted onto the chimney wall adjacent to the laying plane. After that, it can be fixed on the wall in any way convenient for you.

The tiles are laid directly near the chimney with a small gap (about 2 - 3 cm). To obtain a reliable abutment, you can use a special corrugated tape made of aluminum or copper, painted to match the color of the tiles. In this case, using a piece of tape of the required length, the front part of the pipe is first closed (with a slight overlap), after which the same operations are repeated for its lateral sides.

Experts believe that to protect the rear of the pipe, it will be safer to use two strips at once, combined into one with a small overlap. Strengthening the protective layer on the back of the chimney will allow you to get a very reliable abutment, excluding the possibility of rain moisture and snow getting into the structure.

More about stacking order below:

Arrangement of a roof ridge

When installing a tile covering in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe roof ridge, the main attention should be paid to the competent placement of the material in the area of \ u200b \ u200blocation ridge bar... For the design of the ridge zone, special tile blanks (slats) are used, which make it possible to round off the upper edge of the roof, thereby ensuring a reliable pairing of all elements of the coating.

Individual workpieces of the ridge area are fixed on the elements of the lathing using screws (self-tapping screws) of a suitable size.

The position of each ridge strip is chosen so that there is a gap of approximately half a centimeter between it and the sheets of the tiles to be laid.

Note that such ridge blanks should be mounted on top of a special sealing tape, which allows you to form a small gap required for ventilation of the under-roof spaces. In this case, each individual rail is attached to supporting structure using the small clip supplied with the ridge cover. At the end of their installation, special additional elements are installed that cover the end part of the ridge.

Video

More details on the installation rules for ceramic tiles are discussed below:

Even at the design stage of building a house, it is worth deciding on the roofing and the angle of inclination of the roof, since for each type, manufacturers indicate the limit value at which installation can be carried out. Most often, the recommendations for ceramic tiles indicate an angle of 20 ° - 60 ° degrees, but the same type of tile may differ from different manufacturers - it depends on the location and shape of the hooks. You also need to remember that the rafter system serves as the basis for the roof, so it is necessary to correctly calculate its strength. How to properly carry out the installation of ceramic tiles and learn all the subtleties of the technology of its laying, further in our article.

Ceramic tile laying technology

As mentioned above, laying ceramic tiles is possible on slopes with different bias, it is only important to observe General requirements installation, depending on the specific manufacturer.

If the roof slope is 10 ° -15 ° degrees, when installing the tiles, it is necessary to ensure maximum tightness and good drainage of rainwater. To do this, use a rigid sheathing of OSB-boards or wooden boards, which are covered with a roofing film or roofing felt layer.
If the angle of inclination is exceeded, more than 65 ° degrees, it is necessary to carry out the installation very stable and strong, and the tiles are laid with fastening with nails or wire on the battens of the battens. This angle of inclination is subject to a certain risk, therefore it is necessary to consult a highly qualified specialist and manufacturer.

The installation of ceramic tiles is carried out in such a way that the resulting coating becomes very rigid, but at the same time elastic - like scales, which perfectly adapts to the curly shape of the roof, various deformations or shifts in the supporting base.

Ceramic roof tiles Is a piece and very heavy roofing material. Depending on the type of tile, the weight of one element can reach 3.5-3.7 kg, and the total weight square meter roofing ranges from 30 to 75 kg.

It is due to this massiveness that it is very stable on the roof, creating an excellent soundproofing barrier.

The significant weight of the material provides a reliable roof structure capable of withstanding significant external loads. When the choice is made, then at the design stage of the construction of the building, a significant reinforcement of the rafters by 15-25% should be laid.

The finished roof structure covered with ceramic tiles is 5 times heavier than metal and almost 10 times heavier.

The wood used in the truss system is presented special requirement- this is an ideal drying, which will avoid significant deformation of the roof during operation.

Load calculation

The calculation of the load is carried out taking into account the peculiarities of the angle of inclination of the roof, possible snow, wind and rain loads for a given region, further maintenance and the ability to withstand heavy material.

The roof structure used for ceramic tiles must be able to withstand a load of at least 250 kg per square meter.

It is generally accepted to install this roof on a rigid base, therefore the plank sheathing must have adequate strength. When arranging a residential attic, sheathing of boards covered with a layer of waterproofing film or superdiffuse membrane is used.

Installation of ceramic tiles

Installation of natural tiles has characteristics, in which it is worth taking into account the design cross-section of the rafters (the optimal cross-section of the timber is 70 x 150 mm), the step when installing them (800-900 mm), wooden crate and further installation of the "roofing pie".

The roof frame does not have a tangible effect on other elements - Mauerlat, crossbar, pillars, therefore, a significant change in the size of these elements is not provided. When laying tiles, it is worth considering the angle of inclination of the roof slope - with its increase, the step between the rafters expands.

Insulation laying

If the attic floor is planned to be used as a living space, it must be insulated. It is best to use mineral wool based on basalt fiber for this. This thermal insulation material has long proven its excellent qualities in the field of energy saving, heat and ecology. In addition, it has a number of other advantages.

Mineral wool based on basalt fiber:

Does not allow moisture to pass through;
Does not burn;
Possesses excellent sound and heat insulation characteristics;
Has a relatively low price.

On the inside of the insulation, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer made of polyethylene on a fabric basis and reinforced reinforcing mesh... The width of the insulating layer placed between the rafters should not be less than their height.

Next, a waterproofing layer is laid, in which gaps are left for ventilation of the under-roof space - this will ensure the protection of the wooden elements of the roof, and water vapor or atmospheric moisture will freely go outside.

Lathing and counter-lathing

To carry out counter-lattice, most often they use wood bars with a section of 70 x 70 mm, which are mounted on the top of the rafters, in the longitudinal direction. For their fastening, nails 100 mm long are used.
Then the lathing is performed - its slats are positioned perpendicularly. Thanks to the fastening of the battens, a ventilation gap is formed between the tiles and the boarding, which ensures natural ventilation and minimizes the effect of moisture on the coating.

Installation

Before starting the work, the tiles are packaged around the entire perimeter of the roof slope - small stacks of 4-6 pieces are placed to prevent the occurrence of uneven loads.

Packing roof tiles by slopes

A layer of tiles is placed on top of the mounted frame, starting from the eaves overhang - from below to the upper ridge of the roof, moving from left to right. Such an installation will allow you to get a strong and rigid coating, since the upper row of tiles will press the lower one.

Modern shingles have profiled hooks on the back side - grooves that are located in the vertical and horizontal directions. Due to this arrangement, the tiles are laid on the battens of the lathing and fixed with the grooves of adjacent elements.

The resulting lock has a small gap - a backlash that allows you to move a few millimeters. This movement helps to absorb the contraction and expansion of the roof structure due to seasonal changes in weather conditions.

When laying the tiles, each third element is fixed - if the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, then each tile is fixed.

How to fix shingles correctly

The first thing to do is to fix the gable shingles with nails, wire or staples, and also to securely fasten the elements around chimneys, lucarnes, bay windows and roof windows... In all subsequent rows shingles are fixed staggered.

Ridge tiles are placed along the ridge, with a sealing and ventilation tape laid under it - it makes it possible to drain condensate outside and prevents snow or rainwater from entering under the covering.

Fixing scheme for ceramic tiles

Previously, ridge tiles were laid on a mortar, thereby performing rigid fastening and protection from external atmospheric influences, but now they are mounted using special metal brackets.

Manufacturers provide a guarantee for ceramic tiles for a period of 15 to 50 years. It should be noted that the warranty service does not cover damaged tiles. mechanically or in the case when the design part of the roof structure, as well as installation and laying of tiles performed without following the manufacturer's recommendations.

Coating care

A shingle roof does not require careful and constant maintenance, as it is a very durable and durable material, but even it is susceptible to the destructive effects of the environment.

In places with high air pollution, especially near industrial enterprises, a black coating forms on the tiles, which destroys upper layer, therefore, for a given area, it is more expedient to choose tiles with an engobered or glazed coating.

Over time, the tiles darken naturally, becoming covered with a noble patina, but engobe and glaze hardly change their natural shade.

Green bloom - overgrowth with moss, formed in places of shade, most often on the north side, due to insufficient solar lighting or lack of proper drainage of rainwater from the roof slope. This type of contamination is removed using special preparations or a stiff brush.

Conclusion

Important! It is always necessary to have a stock of tiles after completing installation work - this will allow you to replace damaged elements and exclude the possibility of changing the shape or color of the model with an additional purchase.

As you can see, laying tiles naturally is a rather laborious and lengthy process. To cover the roof yourself, you will need at least 2-3 people with certain construction skills and the ability to work with the tool.