Mounting of drywall to a wooden ceiling: Methods for installing a frame of wood and metal profiles. Wooden frame for plasterboard - what timing to choose and how to mount the frame under the plasterboard from the tree on the wall

Partitions made from drywall are often used for the urgent redevelopment of an apartment or at home, making in their design or interior of something new and unusual. To do this, they possess all the advantages: their device and installation with their own hands are simple, and even inexperienced, novice homemade master cope with this technology. They are cheap in the installation and after the final finish, they do not distinguish them from the main walls of the apartment.

There are partitions and disadvantages. But you can cope with them. For example, the insufficient mechanical strength of the partition can be significantly improved, if used instead of conventional drywall, dry-fiber sheets or enhance the design, lining the frame with several layers of drywall. And in wet rooms, a waterproof drywall is used in the wet premises.

But whatever partition you have decided to build in your apartment, remember that the introduction of a new element in the planning should be coordinated with the housing inspectorate authorities.

Plasterboard partitions, like plasterboard lining of walls, usually make on a wooden or metal frame. Metal frame is reliable than, technological and when it is used, it is possible a device of complex structures that are harder to make on a wooden frame. But, in turn, working with a wooden design is more familiar and it will cost cheaper.

Timber for partition frames are used coniferous rocks. All items must be processed by special fire and bioprotective impregnations before installation.

The material for the frame is chosen, guided by the parameters of the future partition: how it is higher and longer, the cross-section of the frame elements should be greater. For a frame of partitions with dimensions of 2.5x (4-5) m, you can take the bars with a cross section of 60 × 80 mm.

The frame of the partition consists of a strapping, racks, as well as horizontal jumpers, are usually installed in places of sheets of plasterboard sheets. The design can be complemented by more powerful racks and jumpers in doorways, inches, etc. To improve sound insulation properties, and in country houses - and for heat-shielded frames in the production of partitions are filled with sound and heat insulating materials. In temporary accommodation homes, the insulation additionally protect moisture and pair-protective films.

Montage frame partitions.

This work is starting with the installation of strapping. The bars of the strapping are fixed to the floor, ceiling and walls. If the overlaps are wooden, the task is simplified because it is fairly ordinary nails for attaching bars. With a thickness of a bar of 60 mm, it is quite enough nails with a length of 100 mm. If the walls are concrete or brick plastered, the strapping is fixed with a dowel-nail - to the wall and sex and anchors to the ceiling.

Also read on the topic: Starting work follows from the ceiling bar. Significantly on the ceiling the boundaries of the partition, the timber is screwed or naked to the ceiling, after which the location of the lower bar of the strapping is planned. Do it with a plumb, rules with a level or more modern tools, such as laser level.

When using traditional tools along the septum length, it is necessary to make a minimum of three marks, each of the walls and in the middle. When the marks are made, the lower bar is fixed to the floor and once again check the correctness of its location relative to the top bar. After that, vertical bars of strapping connecting outdoor and ceiling bars are installed on the walls.

Since the main load from the future partition lay on the strapping, it is necessary to fix it as reliable as possible - with a step of fasteners no more than 40 cm. But before mounting the timber, it is necessary to make sure the strength of the walls themselves. If the walls are made of not very durable materials (cellular concrete, gypsum), a dowel of maximum dimensions are needed and it may be necessary to replace a dowel-nail to specialized dowels that are intended for use with specific construction materials. In the extreme case, you can do with wooden corks that are driven into the prepared holes and then screw screws into them. This method is old, you can say - Dedovsky, but verified.

Another way to fasten the strapping - using direct suspensions used when installing metal frames. If the walls are sufficiently durable and smooth (for example, concrete), then this is the most convenient and fast method of fixing the bar.

After the frame frame is installed in place, and tested for verticality, time comes to put racks. For them, the timing of the same section is used as for the cutting of the frame.

Racks usually have 60 cm increments. With such a step, each sheet of drywall (with a standard sheet width 120 cm) is attached on three racks.

Installation racks can be in several ways. The simplest - with the help of driving wooden bars, which are fixed with the help of screws to the most vertical rack and to the strapping. A more reliable way is to secure the rack with metal corners, which can be easily made from direct suspensions or purchase already ready.

From the same bar cut out horizontal jumpers. Fasten them, skipping self-tapping screws directly through the vertical racks with one and on the other side of the jumper. Metal corners can be reinforced.

If the partition is provided by the doorway, it is framed by additional racks and a horizontal jumper. They are made from the bar of the same section as the entire frame, or a little more. The bottom of the door box forms either the strapping frame, or, if there is no need to be needed in the threshold, part of it in the opening is neatly cut down, and the edges are additionally attached to the dowel-nail.

In the partition of this type, the engineering communications are quite difficult. If it all needs to be paved in it, for example, the wiring, then in the racks you have to drill the holes of the desired diameter. It is desirable to remember that the cable is laid for safety in trumpets - hard or corrugated, or in tin boxes.

Facing partitions.

When the frame will be ready, you can proceed to its facing of plasterboard. Fasten sheets with screws with a wide hat. It is preliminarily necessary to develop a facing scheme, in which the sheets will have the least to color.

Crying sheets is better so that they do not stick over the windows and doorways - this can lead to the chunk of the edges of the sheets. Where it is impossible to avoid this, there is an additional bar in the junction, to which the edges of the sheets are fixed.

Installation of isolation with your own hands

If the partition is assumed to use heat and sound insulation, then it is embarked on the installation after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.

Currently, the market offers many insulation materials.

Well fit foamed, and mineral wool materials.

The selected step when installing the racks corresponds to the standard width of many insulating materials, which makes it easier to work.

Hard panels are better glued to the inside of the already installed plasterboard. If there are small cavities between the plates, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of foamed and mineral wool materials gives a good soundproofing effect.

When covering the septum with plasterboard from the second side, it is necessary to remember that in order to avoid cracking of the frames of the frame when screwed down at the joints of a large number of screws of the sheets of sheets, you need to breed with the joints of the already mounted cladding, shifting them to the right or left.

It is also necessary to remember that there should be a gap of about 3-4 mm between the upper edge of the sheet and the ceiling, which will protect the upper edge from the chipping. This clearance is subsequently closed with ceiling plinth.

The frame cover must be performed sequentially from one edge. Screws need to screw in the frame rack perpendicular to the surface of the trim.

Such a partition is the simplest, but despite this it is characterized by sufficient strength and has good sound-insulating properties. Its disadvantage is a small thickness that makes the gasket of communications inside the partition.

Extended partitions with their own hands.

The design of partitions on a double wooden frame allows you to solve the task of laying inside the partition of engineering communications and even install water heating batteries in them. In width, such partitions are much superior to those discussed above.

For the installation of the extended partition, two straps are installed, separated by a distance sufficient to accommodate communications. All operations when mounting the frame are performed in the same way as in the first case. First, the distance is determined by which two frames will be separated from each other, then mount the bars of strapping and vertical racks.

After one side of the partition is lined, inside it in pipes or special boxes from galvanized steel sheet or from plastic, all the necessary communications are laid. Installing inside partition and heating batteries is also possible, although this will require additional work. The batteries are set closer to one of the sides, and in front of them in the drywall mounted ventilation grids.

It should be remembered that in places of pipes with hot water, the foam and foam rubber is not used as insulating material. Mineral wool is used as thermal insulation in these places.

There is a way to increase the internal volume of the partition and without installing the double frame. In this embodiment, the strapping frame is set alone, but the vertical racks are fixed to the side edges of the strapping bars, as a result of which the partition becomes wider. In this case, the installation of racks to the frame is also simplified - nor transient bars, nor corners are not needed. To improve sound insulation between racks and strapping bars, rubber gaskets or gaskets made of foams are laid.

In addition to the options with a single-layer facing by hypokarton, there are structures in which the sheets are placed on two layers on each side of the partition. In this case, the plasterboard is attached to the bars so that the top sheet overlaps the bog of the bottom layer of sheets.

Having finished the installation of sheet cabarton sheets, the seams on the joints of the sheets and the screws of the screws are sweeping, after which they go to the separation of the partition.

On the left - the insulation is laid after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.
On the right - for greater strength of the partition and simplicity of installation of drywall on the frame, they are pinching an additional fit.

Also remember that:

In temporary accommodation homes (for example, in the country), the insulation in the partition should be protected by a steam insulating film.
In places setting doors, reinforced racks are set.

- Survived type of finishing service thanks to the universality of building materials. Basically, they are fixed on. Plasterboard on wooden rails - the second most popular way of installation.

Wooden rails can be used when mounting partitions, walls and ceilings

Despite the development of the construction market, traditional environmentally friendly materials remain in demand. If a brick or foam block is used for the house, then the bathhouse will definitely be from the breeding forest. For such buildings, it is logical to install plasterboard on wooden slats.

In the roads with niches, on the loggia, it is necessary to the pieces, the assembly of them is difficult in cramped conditions. It is much more convenient to cut the bars. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, so the balcony will be warmer. How can you find out on our website. The crate can be made of different depths and pick up the bar in width. It is needed thick.

In a private house, there is a stock of wood. From it you can cut the bar for the frame of the desired size. Wood is easy to process and convenient in the fit for small sizes.

Wooden bars are easy to process and are comfortable in fitting for small sizes.

On the plasterboard with a wooden basis can be. The frame of the profile is enhanced by the timber, attaching it inside the planks ..

And finally, it will cost cheaper than on the profile.

Disadvantages of structures

By minuses include:

Afraid of increased dampness. Therefore, in the bathroom, premises with an unstable temperature mode are not recommended to install the wooden base under GLC. Special impregnations will be able to increase resistance to moisture, prevent the formation of mold and fungus.
A tree - a living material, under adverse conditions, gives a shrinkage, it can be a story. So that this does not happen, be sure to choose a dry bar (14-16% humidity). Before installing, it should take place indoors at least a week.
Wood harder metal products - take into account the loads, especially when assembling ceiling structures.

Remember that even after processing with special impregnations, the tree is easily flammable.

Design modeling, markup

Before starting the mounting of the frame from the REC, it is necessary to draw it a scheme, to make preliminary calculation.

Scheme, material calculation

Measure the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe wall, ceiling or partition:

Standard sizes of bars: 50 x 50 mm, 50 x 40 mm, 50 x 70 mm. For partitions: 80 x 80 and 100 x 100 mm.
Calculate the length of the guides, reaching the perimeter of the surface.
Step between vertical bars from 400 to 600 mm. One sheet of drywall accounts for 2-3 rails (standard width 1,200, height is 2,500 mm).
Then draw and consider jumpers, the standard distance between them is 600 mm.

Fastener

For work you will need:

self-tapping screw or press washer for wood (20-40 mm);
metal corners (for connecting jumpers and racking plane);
dowel-nails (for mounting the frame to the wall).

To determine the number of building materials, it is necessary to divide the surface area to the area (2.5 x 1.2 m).

Council. Purchase building materials with 15-20% incentive, given the substandard waste.

Marking

The melting is performed in three stages:

The surface of the floor and the ceiling is rarely perfectly smooth, so you first determine the lowest point at the corners of the room. It is measured with a roulette.
Bring off the horizon along the border of the room. In small rooms (up to 20 square meters.) Apply a construction level or hydroelectric system. Markup is conveniently carried out using an electronic tape measure with a manual setting of the level. To do this, it is fixed in the place of the lowest point in the corner of the room. Exhibit a laser label, retreating 5 cm from the floor level and ceiling. Make marks on it, then scroll through the line. Also, you can use the folding cord.
It is placed along the horizon line the location of the cooler beam (with a distance of 40-60 cm).

Installation

Before starting work, the timber is treated with a protective composition of deep penetration to improve moisture resistance. K project to the complete drying of the impregnation.

During the work, you will need tools:

drill with a bumpman, screwdriver;
construction level, roulette;
plumb and square;
under electric foams.

Each stage of markup and connections are verified using a level or a building corner.

For alignment or redevelopment of the living space, partitions from GVL or Gypsum Carton are used. GLC won against the background of brick and block partitions by the fact that they are lightweight, the equipment of such designs occurs quickly and simply, and after the end of the work there remains little dirt and dust. GKK and GVL are characterized by efficiency, good heat and sound insulation.

In addition to the standard GLK, there are types of material:

moisture-resistant;
fire-resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, the fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office space).

Glk is great for finishing residential rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, heating, does not highlight poisons. Controls the microclimate of the room naturally.

Moisture-resistant plasterboard

For durable structures used GVL. These are dry-fiber sheets that are stronger than plasterboard. GBL made from building gypsum with additives. GVL is an eco-friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell, like a drywall. But allocate such minuses of the application of GVL:

GVL is heavier than GKL;
costs more.

Characteristics of wooden carcass

It is often used to fasten the GLC on the wood frame.

The wood frame is cheaper than metal, produced from wooden planks and bars, usually applied wood coniferous rocks. Brushes Section 40 * 40 centimeters are used in the joints of two layers either where massive items (mirror or cabinet) will be on the wall.

Requirements for the material:

Wood moisture content ranges from 12 to 18%;
Fire processing must comply with the first fire safety group;
The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before applying a tree, a tree is processed by protective equipment from fire and pests, viewed for bitch and irregularities.

Fasteners

The screwing of the parts of the drywall on wooden rails should be carried out in residential and dry buildings. Collect the frame in accordance with the vertical and horizontal level, otherwise the construction will be released.

Tools for creating a design:

a hammer;
perforator;
nails;
building level;
self-tapping screw;
mounting dowels;
metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, it is done during the assembly.

Fundamental technology

Stages of work:

Pre-apply the marking of the septum on the ceiling with the help of the level, then the wooden frame is fixed;
Put the strapping bars, starting with the ceiling. Then there is a floor, and after it - the walls. It will be easier to work if all covers in a tree building (liquid nails or self-tapping screws are suitable). If the house is made of brick and concrete, the mount is made by dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
Pluging the bars on the ceiling, make markup on the floor (minimum three marks) and continue the mounting of the frame.
After checking the matching of fixtures relative to the ceiling and floor, the base is started. To do this, it is enough to combine outdoor and ceiling guides by vertical bars. The distance between them is observed by at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars qualitatively, since the main burden will have to be on them.
After installing the vertical, it is fixed to the racks on the corner of self-strokes on both sides by 3-4 holes.

Mounting GLK on the base

Start a trim from whole sheets or the biggest pieces. Fasten them with self-draws to bars every 25-30 centimeters.

Facing

When it is trimmed with the material only on the one hand, then the insulation is laid and stretch the wiring before installing the upper layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is placed as needed. It is better to do without stretching cables, if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition is provided by the doorway, increase the number of racks and horizontal jumpers.

Tips for beginners:

When installing the second side of the wall, displace the sheet one step so that the design came out strong;
In order to avoid problems while fixing, make sure that the joints of GLCs accounted for exactly on the middle of the vertical racks.

Isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without being additionally not to isolate the design, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated in this, it is enough to put and consolidate the material.

Insulation design

This is suitable mineral wool, polystyrene foam or foam. The hard material is fixed already to the inside of the cased partition.

Each material has disadvantages, and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used are intended.

Read the same way: Arrangement of an apartment building.

Working with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, it is necessary to identify unevenness with the help of a bar. For this:

Put along the wall of the timber and cut the line from the outer edge;
It is vertically noting the racking wood bar, mark at the same interval the position of the end for its outlet on the floor.

It is important to evenly set the framework so that the whole design is smooth.

If there are difficulties with drywall, helps video:

Advantages of application GLC

This material has a number of advantages compared to other raw materials:

low cost and assembly costs;
little weight;
quick installation;
the best sound and thermal insulation;
the ability to apply even in frosting premises;
alignment of walls;
the installation of plasterboard does not need additional preparation of the basis;
after installation, there is little garbage and dust.

If everything is done correctly, it will remain a decorative wall decoration as the last stroke. And designs from drywall will serve for a long time and save a lot of time and money.

In contact with

To date, plasterboard is rightly recognized by one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is explained by his pricing accessibility and indisputable ease. It is very often treated for alignment of overlaps in the house. Today we will talk about how to mount plasterboard to the walls, as well as get acquainted with all the advantages and disadvantages of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before proceeding to the study of such a finishing material, such as plasterboard, it is worth understanding what he represents.

Plasterboard is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with solid plaster and special fillers inside. It is used in various purposes. For various works, sheets with different thickness are produced. Looking plasterboard panels can not only on the walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose the materials of the appropriate category.

Features

Today in the stores of construction and finishing materials you can find absolutely any products for any repair work. For alignment of walls, customers are offered high-quality putty, plaster and other practical compositions. However, many people choose for such works "dry" material - plasterboard.

To date, the problem of uneven walls familiar to many.It is faced with owners of private houses and urban apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the overlaps of smooth, not attracting the brigade of the finishes.

Uneven floors are bad not only what they look unpainted, but also the fact that many finishing materials cannot be applied on them. This can be attributed to the tile, most types of paints and wallpapers. Based on the drops and potholes, such coatings are held unreliable, and they look very inaccurated. Many of the finishing materials and emphasize irregularities on the walls.

In such cases, do not do without perfectly smooth and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat look. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible in processing and can be coated with practically any canvases and paints.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall with a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless montage method, which specialists consider more complex.

Choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that it is necessary to work with drywall. This is due to its feature consisting in the fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the plasterboard, then it is hardly possible to return to him the primordial species. That is why for the manufacture, for example, arched structures, the usual plasterboard will not fit, because when it is easy to flexure it will just break.

Another distinguishing quality of plasterboard is its multitasking. It is used not only to align different bases, but also for the manufacture of interesting multi-level ceilings, racks with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Pros and cons

Like any other finishing material, plasterboard has advantages and disadvantages of which you should know if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

To begin with, you will get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of plasterboard sheets:

They differ in a smooth and smooth surface, due to which they are chosen to align different bases.
The advantage of plasterboard is also its thermal conductivity. Indoor, where the walls are covered with this material, will always be warm and cozy.
Plasterboard is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It has no dangerous and harmful substances in its composition, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
The sheets of GLC fireproof and do not support burning.

Another weighty advantage of plasterboard is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, such material is not subject to the formation of mold and fungus.
Often, consumers buy precisely plasterboard, as it has an affordable price, but applied in various purposes.
Plasterboard walls can be complemented by various insulation (more often prefers polyplex and mineral wool).
Work with plasterboard is quite simple. To do this, you do not need to be purchased by expensive tools.

Using this finish material, you can implement any bold designer ideas. That is why plasterboard uses many designers in their developments.
Plasterboard does not require expensive and regular care.
From the GLK does not come unpleasant chemical smell.
He is fragilely processed. To do this, you can use almost any materials from conventional paper wallpapers to tile.

Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any rooms. It may be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvas.
Thanks to the gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
With a skeletal method of fastening drywall, rough walls do not need long and scrupulously prepared with special compositions. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic means to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
Many consumers are purchased for repairing drywall, because it can be used immediately after the purchase, giving them to lie 2-3 days without exposing additional preparation.
To date, the selection of plasterboard sheets allows you to choose the optimal option for any conditions.

As you can see, a list of positive qualities at drywall is quite impressive.

However, he has its weaknesses:

Normal plasterboard is not recommended to mount in rooms with high humidity. For such conditions, it is worth choosing extremely moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to specialists, even such plasterboard in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
Plasterboard sheets can begin to crumble, especially under the action of large loads. That is why the gypsum walls are not allowed to hang heavy items such as large hours, suspended shells in the bathroom, lighting devices, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight. Otherwise, these things will take long on their places, and then just fall off and damage the plasterboard.

Working with plasterboard needs very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material if only it is arched.
Plasterboard on the frame will "eat" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all squares.

As far as the listed minuses are - each consumer must decide for itself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you can easily select the material and when you fasten the walls to the walls to strictly follow the instructions.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install plasterboard on partitions in your home, then you should be in withdrawing tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will be useful:

special knife for cutting plasterboard sheets;
special glue (for frameless installation method);
construction level, plumbing, special markup cord, roulette, long line (instead you can take the rule), pencil / marker - these tools will be needed to mark the walls and for competent control over the vertical surfaces;
ordinary and rubber hammers;

spatula (instead you can take trowel);
separate container for kneading the adhesive composition;
screwdriver;
perforator;

self-tapping screw;
dowel;
screws;
electric drill with a nozzle mixer;

roller with a long handle;
soft tassel;
planned (needed to cut the chamfer);
putclone (for applying the finish layer after all works).

From the materials you will need:

the sheets of GLC (ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the installation of sheets is planned);
galvanized profile or wooden bar (for frame formation with the corresponding installation method).

Application area

Plasterboard is a versatile material. It is used in a variety of conditions and fragilely fixed on various bases.

Without this material, just do not do if we are talking about a wooden house or building from the cut.In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require competent alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that the houses from the tree always give shrinkage and plasterboard plates in them can only be installed after the completion of this process. Otherwise, sheets can be damaged in such conditions or deform.

To install drywall on the walls in wooden houses, it is necessary:

provide space for mounting the insulation (if you, of course, plan to insulate the room further);
have a free space for laying communication systems.

Align the walls in wooden houses is not easy. In this case, the optimal option will be the frame installation. However, some owners first fasten on the boards and bars sheets of plywood or chipboard, and then plasterboard are glued to them.

Plasterboard is permissible to attach to walls with a concrete basis. For such surfaces, it is not necessary to make a complex frame. Plasterboard can be glued to such bases using a special glue. Such adhesive compositions today are found in stores very often. For example, the qualitative composition of PERLFIX offers a well-known company Knauf.

Plasterboard is often used to align brick walls.Here you can also refer to the usual stance of the material without the manufacture of the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level as far as the overlap is curved, after which any contamination, dust and fat stains are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall should be absolutely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion with drywall will not succeed even when using high-quality glue.

In case you want to level the walls of foam blocks, you should contact the framework of the installation. This is explained by the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to the frameless installation, but before this foam must be prepared - to separate the ground or plaster.

Walls made of aerated concrete also often require alignment. In such cases, it is possible to use frame, and frameless mounting methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases for the primer of deep penetration. Glue in such cases it is necessary to select especially carefully, as in cases with overlappings from foam blocks. Experts recommend applying the compositions from Knauf and "Will Montage".

Plasterboard will be able to make walls even in saman houses.Such buildings are full composites built from clay, land, straw and sand. Of course, with such materials, the construction of perfectly flat partitions does not have. For this reason, they simply need aligning plasterboard fabrics.

Methods of fastening

We have already mentioned above that plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or a frameless way. The selection of this or that installation variant largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the owners preferences.

On profile

This option is the mounted plasterboard is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, the gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame consisting of metal profiles recorded along the wall.

It is worth considering some nuances of this common installation method:

Between the wall and the profile you can position the insulation, if necessary. Most often consumers choose mineral wool, penplex or foam. However, it is impossible to forget that the draft walls before laying the insulation layer must be processed by the antiseptic composition.
In the cavity of the frame you can hide various engineering communications. It can be water pipes, heating batteries or wiring.
Do not forget that in rooms with high levels of humidity, only moisture-resistant plasterboard is permissible. Conventional sheets in such conditions will serve not long.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame has a number of advantages:

with a similar installation in the room, additional noise and thermal insulation are ensured;
frame mounting allows you to align even ugly wall curves;
before installing the frame and fastener of drywall, black partitions do not require preparation (enough to go through them with antiseptics).

Consider more than step-by-step instructions for mounting drywall on the frame:

First you need to measure the walls and make marking on the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
Marking under the guides should be started from the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the overlap, then the line is carried out and with the help of a plumb is transferred to the floor.
Vertical profiles need to be located at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard leaf relies on three racks.
As for the installation of the suspensions, it is necessary to withstand a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

After that, you can move directly to the mounting of the frame. First, around the perimeter needs to consolidate the guide profiles. To fasten their ceiling and floor, you need to use a perforator, dowels and screws.
In the points marked during measurements it is necessary to attach the suspensions.
In the guide profiles should be inserted bearing and secure their suspensions.
Configure all the details as securely and tight as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire design will depend on the quality of the frame.

Before installing plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to strengthen horizontal guides.
When the frame will be ready, you should switch to the installation of plasterboard sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special 25 mm metal screws. But they need to fasten them in such a way that the caps were slightly "drowning" into the plasterboard.
After installing all sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using the reinforcing tape.
When the putty finally dries, the drywall attached to the frame should be fully sharpened. After that, the surface of the wall finish will be perfectly even smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, such a installation technology is simpler. However, it is worth considering that a similar design takes part of the area indoors, so in a very small room it is better to use a frameless way, if, of course, it allows you to take overlap.

Blind designs

Frameless fastening of drywall is differently called adhesive, since it is fixed with the sheets at it with a special adhesive composition.

Choosing this installation option, you need to observe the following conditions:

on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
sowing plots should not be;

walls should not be processed;
they must be protected from dampness and excessive moisture;
from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contamination.

It can only be applied to the frameless fastening of drywall in the event that the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile framework.

You can glue drywall on bases in different ways.

The optimal option must be selected, based on the technical condition of the overlaps:

The first method of installation is designed for more smooth surfaces. Under it, the fixing of plasterboard sheets occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base around the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
If the overlaps have on their surface of irregularities, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them with the help of the "Perlfix" glue. It must be applied portion along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum web (withstand the distance between the glue heaps of 35 cm), as well as on its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering the Instructions for the Filly Installation of Plasterboard Sheets:

First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of plasterboard plates.
Then it is necessary to competently prepare the surface of the base. If the wall is distinguished by a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
Now you need to cut down the sheets of GLK, as you will be useful to not only the entire panels, but also prepared inserts.
To make a cut straight, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make cut curves, then you should use electric jigsaw.

Prepare glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum solutions that frozen sufficiently.
If the glue dries too quickly and you wish to extend the time of breathing, it is worth adding an adhesive composition for wallpaper or good old PVA into water.
Now you can start glitting on the walls on the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of \u200b\u200birregularities on the ground. If the overlaps are smooth enough, then the mixture can be superimposed immediately.
To eliminate considerable curvature it is worth putting beacons. It is possible to build from drywall strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued throughout the perimeter in a vertical position, withsting a step at 40-50 cm.

Right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb.
After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread), stretched between extreme beacons, you need to establish the remaining bands.
Align lighthouses by rule.
Plasterboard sheets need to be pressed using the rule installed in various positions. Touch the panel with a rubber hammer and correct their position.
When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be separated by putty.

Plasterboard is a rescue circle in matters of wall leveling. Installation of gypsum sheets can not be called unbearable and energy-intensive.

So that you have a more aesthetic and reliable design, the following advice and recommendations from professionals should be taken into account:

The installation of plasterboard plates in the room is permissible only after laying outdoor coatings. Also by the time of alignment of overlaps in the room, all questions should be solved on the laying of communications and heating systems.
Printing plasterboard (with a frameless way), try to avoid cross-shakes. It is better to lay out sheets with offset.
Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets with the distrofile mounting. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor is 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
In order for the plasterboard to securely hold on overlaps, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. The walls should not be shrouded and sprinkling areas.

With a frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cropped material (it is needed for a better sealing of all finishing seams). To do this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
All tools and materials are recommended to prepare before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distracting and not spending time on extra action.
Adhesive compositions need to be breeding, based on the instructions. It must be applied on the packaging.
Do not tighten the fasteners on the drywall too much, as this can lead to deformation of a fragile material.
To work with plasterboard you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the instrument yourself, to work with which you are more convenient, but experts advise to contact laser devices.

Pay attention to the temperature regime during installation work. The temperature is +10 degrees recommended. If the room is tangible, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
Plasterboard sheets are recommended to install on the walls not immediately after the purchase, and after it will lie at home for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

Facing the walls of plasterboard provides a device or wooden bars. It is mostly used a metal lamp, it is more durable and more practical.

In rooms with a normal and dry temperature-humidarity mode for the framework of the framework, the use of wooden bars, a moisture content of 12% impregnated with antiseptic and antipyarem compositions is permissible. In places with high humidity, as well as where it takes an increase in fire resistance of structures, only a metal framework is used.

What a bar need

For the device of wooden frames, the timber is selected by a cross section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for material: Humidity - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. Common nature of the tree - pine.

What is the fastener and connection methods

Connection of frame parts, their mount on the wall and the ceiling are performed dowel-nails. In concrete surfaces, the holes are pre-perforator with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners can be attributed to metal corners. They are joining vertical racks with horizontal. The fastening of the guide wooden bars lead in a step of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest racks).

Metal plate is used for both walls and ceiling

The connection of the elements of the wooden frame is performed with each other. self-timers At an angle or metal perforated corners. Installation of bars on the wall is made with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without an indent, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are fixed immediately on the wall. If it is a curve, make it aligning with special stores or by lining in the right places of wooden pads.

Requirements for materials and rules

In the arrangement of the design and construction rules, there are basic requirements that need to be observed to create a solid frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main of them:

All products and materials must have hygienic conclusion and fire certificates;
In space between the frame and the draft base, where the conditions of operation require, it is necessary to place heat, sound, flame insulating material;
Water absorption of waterproof and water-heating sheets of plasterboard should be no more than 10%;
The sheets of Glevo (moisture-generative) are used in rooms with air humidity not more than 90%, temperature not exceeding 30c. When using surface treatment, waterproof primers, putty, paints are used;
For fastening the sheets of GLC thickness not more than 15 mm on a wooden frame, tn35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
With longitudinal placement of sheets, the step of their attachments do not more than 60 cm, with a transverse one - no more than 1.25 m;
To improve the soundproof properties of the structure between the guide bars, the ceiling and the floor, the sealing tape is laid;
Fixation of sheets to the frame is carried out by self-pressing with a step of 25 cm, (rotary) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge \u200b\u200bwith cardboard), 15 mm - (cropped edge);
The joints of the sheets during their vertical location must have to the center of the racks, with a horizontal - on additional bars placed between vertical racks;
The step of carrier bars on the ceiling is 50 cm with a cross-arrangement of GLC, 40 cm - with vertical;
The fastening step on the ceiling is not more than 17 cm.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction

The installation of the frame on the wall should be performed after the end of wet processes and to the assembly of the first floor, on the ceiling - after the completion of the finishes and laying engineering communications. All work behave in the following order:

Markup;
Frame assembly;
Installation of sheets;
Finishing work.

1. Marking

On the floor and the ceiling by the folding cord, the position of future starting bars of the frame is applied, taking into account their thickness. Transfer of labels between the floor and the ceiling is performed by a laser level or magnetic plumb. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the place of attachment of the vertical racks, taking into account the selected step, is noted.

Attention. It is necessary that the sheets of sheets fall on the center of vertical racks. This makes an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or reduce the step of profiles in the right places.

2. Assembly of the carcass

According to the marked lines on the floor and the ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with a dowel-nail, a length of at least 3.5 cm. Tracking vertical bars adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they are tightly entered between guides. Produce fixation of elements with self-draws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of \u200b\u200bthe room must be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation laid in the frame

Attention! If the insulation is placed in space between the frame and the wall, it is necessary to take into account this at the settlement stage, placing the starting bar at a bought distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical bars with a selected step are mounted. To ensure additional stiffness of the structure, it is strengthened by horizontally located between the racks.

Laying Communications

If you plan to accommodate sanitary and technical pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, phone), you need to do it after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Installation of sheets

Sheets are placed on a frame, configuring close to the wall and the ceiling, fasten with self-drawing from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). Self-tapping caps are accumulated by 1 mm. Between the sheets and the floor they leave the gap 1-1.5 cm close it by sealant.

Attention. If the tapping screw went into the material is not at a right angle or deformed, it is replaced by another, having a distance from the first at least 5 cm.

The joints between the sheets with the reinforcing ribbon or without depending on the type of the edge of the GLC. The sweeping composition is applied in 2 layers - start and finishing and should not be outside the seam. The angles are treated with the use of reinforcing tape, bending it under the desired angle. After drying, the solution produces the finishing of the surface of the sheets with the subsequent placement of the facing material.