Discussion of seen wooden floors of private houses. Wood floor alignment. How to remove the floor or plinth

Wooden floor, despite the emergence of many other modern options, remains in the top of popularity. It is widely used not only in old houses, but also in new buildings, as it is warm and durable. However, over time, under the influence of many factors, he may begin to face one or more sides. And as a result, there are serious level differences.

On such a coating, the furniture is crooked, and the doors are not closed in the cabinets due to the occasions. Having violets become inevitable. In addition, gaps are formed between the boats, which negatively affects both the appearance of the floor, and on its insulation qualities. Therefore, sooner or later, all owners have a question about how wooden floors, having made it more stable, warmer, more comfortable for walking and more beautifully.

Basic Wood floor alignment methods

Dismantling and bulkhead of the boarding coating is a complex, long, time-consuming and dirty process, to which it is difficult to decide. However, without him, it is often impossible to do - if the floorboards have fallen, they saw, they appeared traces of defeat mold or fungus. In this case, there is nowhere to go - a complete replacement of wooden flooring is required. If the boards are durable, well shot down between themselves, but a serious difference appeared in the horizontal plane or in some sections of the floor, then you can do without opening the board. With a favorable coction of circumstances, they cost superficial leveling activities.

Depending on how irregularities appeared on the wooden floor for its operation period, the method of their removal is selected.

There are several ways applicable to the leveling of the board coating:

Cycle.
Local alignment of a particular area.
Self-leveling compositions.
Lagal alignment.
Lining alignment.

To determine which methods are better suitable for a specific case, it is necessary to begin measuring the surface of the floors using a laser or conventional construction level with a length of at least 2000 mm. The permissible value of the irregularities, with which you can accept (if, of course, the symptoms did not appear) should not exceed 2 mm on a single basement meter.

And what if the floor is smooth, but began to creak?

Definitely - it's not all right with him. It is necessary to conduct an audit, reveal the reason for the appearance of unpleasant sounds. Well, then - by applying certain techniques that are described in detail in the special article of our portal.

How to perform alignment with your own hands?

Local flooring floor alignment

It happens that irregularities are local in nature, that is, are only at certain sections of the floor. Alignment of the protruding boards above the main plane can be performed using a plane or manual grinding machine. Of course, in these areas, it is necessary to write fasteners' caps - nails or self-tapping gears. They should not interfere with alignment, that is, if necessary, or deepen into the crowd of the board, or even temporarily unscrew.

If the semi formed on the floor, on the contrary, concave small areas, they are raised to the overall level of the surface. This process can be made using the oil or acrylic putty on a tree, or an independently made composition of fine wood sawdust and PVA glue.

The repair makeup is applied to the depression and is distributed over the surface with a spatula. As lighthouses, with such an alignment, the edges of the deepening, located at one level with the main floor plane. After drying the putty mass, it is cleaned with a grinding machine.

The methods discussed above are good only in cases where the boarding coating is prepared under painting or under the trimming of its plywood sheets. If the floors are prepared for varnishing with the preservation of the natural color and texture pattern of wood, then you will have to apply the cycle of the entire surface.

Wooden floor squabble

The cycle method is resorted in cases where it is necessary to free the floors from the old coating or the upper darkened or damaged layer of wood. In addition, if the surface deformation and its height differences are no more than 10 mm, the floors can also be aligned using a cyclum machine. This method is quite noisy, but fast, since in a short time it allows you to update the boarding coating by preparing for further finishing.

It is easy to hold this process, but the equipment is expensive, and it is unlikely to acquire it for a single task. Therefore, if it is decided to align and clean the floor to produce itself, the device is best rented for a certain period.

Choosing this method of processing, you should consider the thickness of the floorboard. And also the fact that after alignment, the height from the surface to the connective lock of the tipped board should be at least 4 ÷ 5 mm. That is, the act will have very carefully and carefully.

For a series of cycles, except the cycles, it is necessary to prepare the following auxiliary materials and instruments:

A set of abrasive nozzles with grain of different fractions - circles and ribbons. Do not take too much consumables. The best option will be consulted from specialists when taking a car for rent, explaining the characteristics of the boarding coating. In addition, you can purchase several nozzles having a different number and check them in practice by experience.

Disposable bags for sawdust.
Individual protection products - gloves, respirator and building glasses.

Before proceeding with the work, it is necessary to carry out the audit of the surface of the board of the board. It should be dry and clean. Between the floorboards, the clearance should be no more than 5 mm. In addition, metal elements should not be published on the surface - nails or self-tapping caps. They should be deepened in wood by 1.5 ÷ 2 mm below the thickness of the alleged layer removal.

The cyclum machine must be prepared for work by installing on it to start nozzles with large grain and adjusting the pressure force of the device using a special screw.

The first phase of cleaning is made along the fibers. Move is required not in a hurry, without sharp jerks, but without long downtime in one place. The car should go smoothly.

Cleaning one coating band, the following should be started by shifting the device on ⅔, that is, by ⅓ capturing the previous one, just processed. As the abrasive layer of the nozzle is abrasion, it must be replaced with a new one.

Having finished the entire surface of the floor with a large grain floor, you can move to the grinding of the board of the board, setting the abrasive tape with a fraction of at least P240. This nozzle will help make the floors perfectly smooth.

Further, wood is treated with antiseptic primer or tinting vehicle. After that, the surface is putty, it is cleaned and covered with varnish, wax, butter or painted in the selected color.

If the surface drops are more significant, then for its leveling will have to resort to more time-consuming methods.

Leveling of the board coating dry tie

Necessary materials

This method of alignment of the surface is suitable for both the aging coating and for. When choosing a similar method of bringing the floor to order, it is necessary to take into account the height of the ceiling of the room and the value of the surface drops.

For the arrangement of a dry screed, the following materials will be required:

Dry clay, pearlite or silicate-slag mixture of shallow fraction, specially designed for a dry screed. An excellent version of this material will be the composition of Knauf. The material of the Belarusian production "PRAVIT" deserves good reviews.

Standard wrapping packaging - 40 liters with a capacity of 40 liters. The calculation of the required quantity is carried out from the floor area and from the thickness of the alleged leveling swelling. Thickness can not be less than 20 (and better - 30) mm. It is undesirable to do it and more than 60, a maximum of 80 mm. If there is a significant overcast of the level from the horizontal on the base floor, it is also taken into account.

The coating sheet material is the finished elements of the floor (EP) made of gypsum-fiber plates. Such EP are equipped with specially provided with lock slats, which speed up the installation and make the coating neat. In addition to this material, it is possible to apply waterproof faeer or chipboard to cover the backfills. However, the best option will still be gypsum-fiber EP, which are optimal for the flooring characteristics:

- thickness 20 mm. (Two layers of 10 mm. The layers are placed and connected to the displacement than just a lock connection with a width of 50 mm).

- Standard linear dimensions of EP - 600 × 1200.

Other elements of the floor are also presented, in particular, the size of 500 × 1500 × 20 mm, that is, with the aspect ratio of 1: 3.

Floor elements are acquired depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. 15% reserve is made, since, firstly, there will be waste when striking. And secondly - on those elements that they will fit from the walls, the locking lamella from the side of the adjunation to the wall is cut off.

Dampfer tape for installation along the wall around the perimeter of the whole room. It is purchased along the length of the perimeter of the room with a small margin.
Waterproofing material for flooring on the surface of the base under the backfill. For wooden floors, pergamine is best suited, dense paper with bitumen impregnation or rubberoid. You can use a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns. It is purchased on the floor area with a stock of 15%.
Metal profile for placing temporary beacons.
Glue for mutual fixation of plates on the lines of lock connections. It is quite suitable for high-quality glue PVA.
Saws. Optimal - special self-tapping screws for GVL (GWVL), which are distinguished by two-way threads and have an independent head.

How to repeat the famous Ranevskaya, "weak floor is rotten boards." Yes, the situation on the very one of the most riyataya - the wooden floor served you faithfully not one ten years old, and at some point they begin to resemble shipboards: somewhere we are walking, somewhere begins, and somewhere they are smashed at all ... Singing the floor is simpler. But even if you acquire expensive and waterproof wood, put more solid waterproofing and even hang a hygrometer - it will not save from the repetition of the same situation in a few years if you again allow the same errors when arranging. Therefore, let's learn how to solve such problems before that time of such labor-intensive repair.

To begin with, see what happens if you don't do everything in time:

We put the "diagnosis": Why did the floor turn into a pipe?

But let's first learn to put the "diagnosis" with rotten floors. So:

The boards turned into a dug, but at the same time you do not feel clear humidity? And on the species of wood - clean? It is not a rotten floor, but the floor who ate bugs-cored. How to deal with them - in another section of our site.
Boards Docking, humidity is not felt, but at the boards themselves some fall and something like white foam? This is a fungus that does not always appear because of dampness, rather, it is recalled with already sick boards.
Does the boards turn into a duch and even in some places? This is a sure sign that your field is rotting, and he rotes because of the water. And the water to it can be seamless to him with the most different ways, and this is not necessarily alone groundwater from the basement. Everything is much more complicated here, and now we will gradually figure it out in all of this.
Boards rotted, and insulation - in water? Well, if the moisture goes out of the house (for example, the walls are to blame), then it will be noticeable primarily for the worsen insulation. In this case, you need to work with the house - at least at the first time by installing a modern air dryer.

Defined what happened to the boards? Go ahead.

All about the process of rotting wooden floors

The source of rotation of any wooden floor alone is water. The constant access of moisture and air to this material act on it is destroying, especially frequent wet-drying cycles.

To determine the exact reason for the rotting of floors in the house, you note such factors:

Construction history. What and from what, dry whether there were blocks, for example, how waterproofing the foundation and the roof overlapped.
Weather. How often rains are going, and whether it happens to slush.
Age of the house.
How the air exchange is organized. For instance, to work out correctly, the diameter of each of them should be at least 25 cm.
Whether all the rules were respected during the flooring.

The first signs of the beginning of the floor rotting are the bumping of the boards and the "game". Already at this stage, the floors can be saved - without fullest.

The most frequent sources of moisture underground are ascending wet streams from the Earth (especially if the groundwater is high) and too humid air from street ventilation. How to understand what exactly do you have? Spend such a simple test:

Good shut down everything.
Open the hatch in the underground or organize a small hole in the wall, so that the air communication between the room and the underground space is adjusted.
Put the heaters in the underground so that the air temperature has become such as in the room. Those. Align her.

And now check if the air remains in the underground as wet - if so, then the source serves humidity from the soil. It can be isolated with modern materials by putting them on the ground and closing the foundation from moisture. We also note that many of the types of oils, which are facing the floorboards before laying, also contribute to the rotting of wood.

The most common causes and solving the problem

Let's consider the most common options, because of which the floor begins to rot:

Option number 1. Production do not cope with their task

Purpose in the house is too small, up to 6 pieces, and they are organized low to the ground. Because of this, blowing is almost impossible, and the environment over time becomes too wet. Lags and floors rot.

What to do: Instead of instead of insulation in the floor cake, lay a moisture protection membrane, which will control the movement of water. Next, organize a ventilation with the help of counter-rail across the beams. The clearance and gaps of purge must be a ventilated plinth. So possible moisture will dry. And if the product is not working sufficiently, there must be any other ventilation under the floor. Usually it is a metal corner in the floor with holes - it is enough.

Option number 2. Soil is too close

The wooden floor is on lags, and under it - the earth, at a distance of 20 cm. Such the floor will deteriorate very quickly. And it is precisely such structures that the builders are often doing in private homes - quickly and angry, as they say. Sometimes, however, instead of the Earth there you can detect wet clay, and the result is the same.

What to do: the floor to unambiguously redo: in the cake - waterproofing, the floor itself is raised above on adjustable moisture, to protect well from dampness. As an option - to put Geecan on this land, on it - sand with a good tamper. It will not spend the water up, even if the geometal was not (this is prevention) - like on the seashore sand dry, if you dug deeper - wet.

Here is an example of a similar location of the lag to the soil, and during the replacement of the floor they raised them:

Option number 3. Hopelessly raw basement

It will be difficult to remove moisture from it, and it will still be (even with good blood) to get to the floor board. Especially dangerous for floors high groundwater.

What to do: In this case, it is better to completely abandon it, to fit the skin and completely pour clean river sand. Water from this abundantly every layer and a good trambrella it. On top of the sand pillow, put the polyethylene film and the insulation, hereinafter - Faneru, and the floor itself is already on it. And, most importantly, we maximize the water and from home yourself - with the help of an external drainage. Usually even the pipes around the house, but sometimes the inaders are built near the small storage devices of groundwater - deep pits. From there, water is not difficult to even pump out.

Option number 4. Parosolation is incorrectly laid

It often happens that a certain material is placed in the way the cake of the floor was thought out, and then unexpectedly rot the boards. This is because the laying floor has not studied the instructions for the steamer itself - from different manufacturers to its installation a variety of requirements. Thus, the materials of one brand should fit tightly to the insulation, others - have an internship between them.

What to do: By changing the floor, you can use the same insulation material, but this time it is good to study all the information about it. You can consider everything carefully in the same section of our site. And keep in mind that vaporizoation from the bottom of the cake of the floor can be done when the underground itself does not differ in the room temperature. But if it is cold, then only the soil itself can be hydroizing, and it will be necessary to equip good ventilation.

At this photo instruction, the rotten floor in the bath was due to the wrong application of the membrane, and now it was completely replaced:

Option number 5. Forever wet insulation

The insulation wets the insulation, which is starting to rot and in contact with him lags and floorboards.

What to do: Remove vapor barrier to the bottom of the insulation and secure the membrane in its place. If this does not help - remove this insulation at all, and heat insulated instead the base and the breakfast, completely shutting up all the products. The heat loss will be no more, and the problem will be completely solved. And the very first thing to determine where the floorboards began to gain moisture. So, she can go from the underground, or from the house itself.

Look at the example, as a replaced floor was replaced and his cake is properly arranged:

Option number 6. Under the house - the real swamp

For example, today began to actively sell areas with a former marsh for a private building. And problems with the floor - already in the first few years. Whatever the floor - moisture is still getting to the boards, and they are increasing with time. Here are only one way out: good vaporizolation from below.

What to do: equip a special drainage with a separate pump under the floor, and one more is an external, without a pump, just with a water tap. The problem will be solved.

A hole for a targeted drainage of water in the base of the foundation can be done like this: either using a concrete reinforced tie with a slope, or simply by packeroid with the allen on the edges. In addition, if the underground you have raw - in no case put on the wooden floor of the laminate or linoleum. They just do not miss moisture, and the floors will begin to rot. Placeing the new floor instead of the rotten older, be sure to minimize the antiseptic boards.

Here's how to protect such a floor - this also rotted the swamp at home:

Option number 7. Floors insulated too diligently

Yes, everything is warm - left in the house, but under the floor, now in the cold time, it is so much so that it will deteriorate all summer - and up to autumn. Outcome: a huge amount of moisture.

What to do: revise the design of insulation and simplify it a little.

Option number 8. Overly wet air inside the house

Let's explain more. If ventilation, namely the exchange of walls of the house with an external environment is wrong, then in the warm season it is not yet felt. But at the first furnace, the internal vaporization is significantly enhanced (moisture gives walls and overlap), warm air goes up, as we know from physics, cold - down. And condensate is formed on the genital boards, and it is precisely in a cold place - on the insulation. Please note: Do you wove the walls there, where the external moisture could not get? And for accuracy, get the usual hygrometer and measure the humidity of the air inside the house in the winter.

Another bright sign that at the moment there is very wet air in the house, serves on the walls at the first ground.

What to do: if the phenomenon is temporary, then open two vents in the house, close the product, and in such a way to drive out wet air to the street.

Option number 9. From old age

It happens that the floors rot and just in a very old house. Such a property of wood.

What to do: just replace. Just carefully work jack - if the house is wooden to everything. And carefully consider lags - if possible, they also need to be replaced.

This is how the competent complete replacement of the wooden floor looks like due to old age rotting:

Option number 10. Lack of ventzor between floors and wall

Those. The floors are made in principle to the walls that in itself is a violation of all technologies. Such a design is especially vulnerable in a wooden house - the lower crowns will begin to rot, and then the floor itself. Shed itself without intervention will live too long.

What to do: Fully change the cake of the floor and throw away the scuffed boards (not all can be spoiled). It is advisable to replace everything on a good concrete floor, especially if we are talking about the bath. So, for the Russian steam room, apply such a cake of the floor:

Sand pillow.
Crushed stone.
Screed 3 cm thick.
Waterproofing film.
Epps.
The same film.
Reinforced screed 10 cm thick.

Why the film? It is needed and below, and from above, because A washing or steam room will be above the floor, and this is especially wet rooms. Secondly, it will not miss the cement milk in the process of filling the screed.

Option number 11. Junted only beams

If you find that only beams are rotting, and the floor will not be touched, most likely the foundation is much fluent in the cold season, and condensate is accumulated from the inside. The first to distribute the beams, of course.

What to do: Here you need to dismantle old beams. Further, where the boards come into contact with the base of the foundation or with the walls of the house, waterproof them with a rubbish or glassware, in several layers.

Use the geomembrane as waterproofing under the floor - it should generally be during construction as an axiom. Get it the edges to the foundation of a double-sided bitumen ribbon, and forget about underground dampness. If you change and laugs, make them with a small bias to the side - so that the condensate appeared is no longer delayed on them, but the window down. And to exit this water, it is also desirable to make a removal under the foundation.

Option number 12. Floors rotted in the apartment

This is a sure sign that they lacked ventilation.

What to do: organize the necessary holes is not difficult - one under the battery is necessary and one from the opposite side.

Production: need or evil?

By the way, recently underground is increasingly building without purge. So, the masters call such a "Russian tradition - first to drive into the underground wet air, and then actively expel it from there." Therefore, today, the foundation is increasingly well insulated well - and that's it. So the floor never rotates. What solves such a design?

Let's consider this moment closer. For example, in spring air on the street is much warmer than under the underground, and besides, it is also wet (snow melting). And this warm and saturated air penetrates the air into the floor and immediately settles in the form of condensate on cold boards. And those quite a few time are in this dampness - until the summer. Is it wondering that in a few years wooden floors are completely rotten? And after the same produces, rodents are pierced with hordes by autumn. That is why today other design solutions are actively used, and ventilation is carried out somewhat differently - through the house itself.

Such underground is called closed air-conditioned, i.e. mechanically ventilated. The fact of the matter is that if the temperature of the underground and rooms do not differ much, then there will be no condensation on the genital boards. On the other hand, if the underground you have the same ventilate and will be ventilated, the air movement from it through the floor should be completely blocked.

These are the solutions to this problem - everything is really very simple.

Saved floor

With the problem of repairing the floor, each owner of the rural house is sooner or late necessarily faces. Most often (and faster - alas!) Lugged lags - bars, logs or plates for which the floor is laid. If the floor is made in a cold scheme, that is, it consists of only from the floorboards laid on the lags, then it is simple to repair it enough - take the furniture, utensils, floorboards name, carefully raise, and the old lags are replaced with new ones.

But if the floor is made on a warmed diagram, that is, besides clean, there is also a black floor with a layer of insulation, then there is not enough work for one week.

You can solve this in all not a simple task. If the house of the capital construction, with black floor, then you need lags just to strengthen, installing parallel to the old, who have fallen new ones on additional supports. And then clean and black floors will be suitable for the exploitation of another year of Edak thirty.

Through the hatch in the basement of lags for the entire length of the premises, alas, it is difficult to drag, therefore it is necessary to stop on the composite, the length of somewhere is one and a half. Lags should be made as light as possible, but not to the detriment of strength.

The design of them is quite clear from the drawing. Since working in the underground falls in the "Pose of the Church of the Church", then the lags should be made as easy as possible, but not to the detriment of strength and rigidity.

Structurally, the lags section is a brazier beam, drove by nails of two edged plates with a thickness of 40 mm, and the support regiment has a width of 25-30 cm, and the vertical edge of stiffness in height is 12-15 cm.

Pillars can be made from different materials - from brick to wooden, but because it is necessary to work in cramped conditions, it makes sense to stop on a wooden (log) version. Support in this case is a trim of a log (timber) with Selected in the upper end groove under the width of the rigidity of lags with a small tolerance (see Fig.). Of course, it is possible to replace the grooves with the rims of the appropriate height and length on the end, but it will not be so secure.

The lower end of the support, transmitting the load on the ground, must be based on the foundation pillow, which can be made either a team from brick or small-sized concrete blocks or monolithic. You can simply determine the planned sections with a monolithic concrete, a gap to them to a depth of about 10 cm, hoping even without formworks. Concrete shove, of course, outside and lower the finished mixture right in the bucket underground. Recommendation: The mixture is better to prepare the rustic, with a small water-cement ratio - such a concrete is stronger, and any crushed stone, gravel or brick battle may come as a filler.

As for the wood breed for vertical support, it is important that she there was a coniferous - pine, spruce or, better, is a larch, which, as is known, practically does not start decades.

Most likely, you will have pine logs at hand. The lower - the support - the end needs to be protected from moisture from entering the concrete tree. To do this, it is enough to miss the petrochetum with a concrete pillow after setting up concrete or put on it folded twice a piece of rubberoid (roofing), and the end of the log is to proliferate.

Paint or Olify the whole whole supportat no case should not be moisture that penetrates the wood mass cracks will lead to the result, which is exactly the opposite expected. The tree must "breathe", that is, freely to give water in the summer of water gained during the crude season.

After full preparation, install the log logs in the design position and in the Tavr, lagows in the grooves. Naturally, it will not be possible to achieve a complete adjoining of black sex to new lags despite the most accurate measurements. Therefore, to work together the entire support structure, use wedges that carefully drive into the grooves under the edge of the stiffness of the lags.

This repair will be quite reliable and not too time-consuming compared to the full replacement of the lag at the opening of the entire floor. Therefore, boldly take it for the work.

A private house, as a human body, consists of a large number of different systems, materials, liquids, useful and harmful microbes. And he has all sorts of ailments that appear and detectable with age. Fortunately, most of them are easy to reveal and cure. The wooden floor in the house is daily exposed to external influences. Time also leaves its traces on it: scratches and cracks appear, the cracks grow between the boards, the creaking of the flooring is increasingly annoying the hearing. These symptoms indicate approaching repairs, which assumes including the alignment of the wooden floor for a new coating.

When it is necessary to align the wooden floor

Wooden floors have high performance characteristics. Initially, stopping the choice on natural wood, the owner of the house simplifies the task of future repair. To prepare a wooden floor under a new paintwork, laying a laminate or parquet board, carpet and linoleum, pre-align the surface of the flooring.

Sooner or later, even the best wooden floorboards begin to show signs of aging. The reasons for this phenomenon are many:

The use of low-quality materials For the flooring device (poorly dried wood for the manufacture of lag, raw floorboard). Over time, such materials contribute to the intimidation or seating of the floor, a violation of the integrity of the coating, the screenshots.
Natural property of wood To bending when drying. Manifests itself with a charge, the formation of irregularities along the length of the board, and, as a result, cracking the coating.
Errors when laying floor And his incorrect operation. Protect the damage to the coating, peeling paint, the formation of slots and cracks, the deflection of the boards.

Natural desire to correct the disadvantages caused the problem of solving the problem. You can make cosmetic repair of paintwork or completely change the floors, it all depends on the real state of the sexes and the available amount of finance.

The reasons except for aging, a lot of things have a lot of replacement or repair, this is:

cracks;
posting;
disposal of wood insect to the state of Tuchi.

Any cause requires repair or complete replacement of the board coating. To identify defects and evaluate the amount of upcoming work, it is enough to raise the boards and examine the lags on which they lie. The absence of traces of insect vital activity, as well as the dry and robust wood surface, make it possible to boldly take on the leveling of the base that does not need partial or complete replacement. If there are defects on the inside of the flooring or lags, it is preliminarily replaced by new wood eliminate problem areas, and only then pass to alignment of the floor.

The following reason for the alignment of the floor and the stage of evaluation of its state is to set the deviation from the horizontal. It is performed by means of a level or accurate laser tool exhibited by the highest corner in the house. After the walls are marked. The information obtained allows you to identify irregularities and determine the level of alignment for which today use high-tech sheet materials from wood and its components that are characterized by a successful combination of a number of properties.

Sometimes, when you first look at the wavy surface of the floor, requested the boards, the slope of the flooring, it is not clear how to align the wooden floor without breaking the boards, and is it possible to do it at all. However, in most cases there is no reason for pessimism. Depending on the nature of the damage to the elements of the field design, various coating restoration technologies and its alignment are used:

pre-stripping cycle;
putty or alignment using self-leveling solutions;
putting aligning elements - can be used, for example, plywood or other similar materials.

Materials for floor alignment on lags

The choice of materials to eliminate various irregularities and other wooden base defects depends on the applied leveling technology, determined by a number of factors. The permissible level of deformation of the floor surface (height differences throughout the area) is dictated by the construction norms and regulations, and its value serves as the main reference point when choosing technology:

If there are small convexities and deflections in the range of 1-2 mm on Square 1 m2 there is no need to smooth surface. This value is permissible even to cover the floor as material sensitive to the irregularities such as Linoleum.
Remedy methods:

alignment of the surface of the cyclical machine;
the use of industrial putty on the basis of acrylic or "folk" means is a mixture of PVA glue with sawdust.

The height difference from 5 mm to 1 cm with a uniform distribution over the floor surface for subsequent laying of coatings requires an alignment of the base.
For this purpose, such technologies are used:

alignment with sheet materials that can be secured directly to the floor;
elimination of irregularities and defects with the use of self-leveling floor mixtures.

The most common sheet materials are plywood, OSB or chipboard plates.

Using the Fiberboard is unacceptable, because over time, this material repeats the floor shape, and all irregularities are manifested on the surface.

Plywood

Optimally suitable for fast and high-quality work:

use for the production of natural veneer of conifers and hardwood;
surface smooth and smooth;
it has a pleasant hardly tangible smell of wood;
it is simply cut and processed by protective means;
sheet strength is combined with flexibility;
convenient format - you can cut sheets of the desired size with a minimum amount of waste;
simple and affordable installation.

In the premises used for permanent residence, it is recommended to use FBA and FC brands that are intended for rooms with low humidity and are suitable for internal works (bedroom, living room). The FSF brand is more resistant to moisture and can be used outside and indoors (corridor, kitchen).

Another way to classify - in varieties. For alignment and the device of the draft floor, it is quite suitable:

The 2nd grade is a smooth surface, small cracks, scratches, traces of glue;
The 3rd grade is the number of possible defects a little more than 2 varieties.

For the purposes of alignment and clean floor, it will be necessary:

E - elite variety defects have no;
The 1st grade - there are no visible defects, but small chips and the smallest cracks are allowed.

In the premises intended for temporary residence (cottage, taking room), you can also use the 4th grade, despite the existing defects, the strength of the plywood of this variety is quite high.

Manufacturers also produce polished (marking sh1 and sh2) and unwanted (labeling NSH) Phaneur. For laying plywood on the wooden floor, you should choose polished on one side (C1) and secure it with an unbelief side to the floor. When choosing a material, you should navigate the value and quality ratio.

Material for alignment, following plywood in the rating of popularity, better known as OSB. Characteristics are similar to plywood performance. It is distinguished by the manufacturer - instead of natural veneer of the tree, natural wood chips are used.

The advantages of the material:

environmental purity (natural resins are used);
no surface defects;
not subject to resolving;
low weight;
variety of sizes;
adequate value.

Manufacturers produce four grades plates: from OSB1 to OSB4 (as moisture resistance and strength). Another kind of variety found in the market is a circulating plate with a connecting groove for a more dense docking. Laying OSB on the wooden floor for the purpose of alignment is carried out using the OSB3 brand tipped plates.

Chipboard (wood-chip)

Less durable and moisture-resistant analogue of OSB. In the manufacture of low-grade wood and woodworking wood. Quality, strength and resistance to moisture are determined only by the quality of pressing plates and the binder.

The benefits include:

good sound insulation indicators;
beautiful thermal insulation properties;
simplicity laying material;
low cost.

Chipboard is the optimal variant of the leveling layer under parquet and synthetic coatings for rooms with low moisture levels.

Pay attention to the features of how to align the wooden floor in a private house or apartment, if measurements show the sediment and uneven drops of more than 1 cm, but less than 8 cm. Only through technology alignment on lags.

Unlike laying directly on the surface of the floorboard, leveling materials in this case requires preliminary preparation. First, the base of the lag (wooden bars) is calculated and mounted, which allows you to compensate for the height differences and form a flat plane for the subsequent installation onto it the leveling layer from a suitable sheet material.

Choosing a thickness of material for alignment

Another parameter of the sheet materials to be taken into account during the selection is their thickness. Factors that affect the choice of material thickness:

type of base for mounting;
type of finish coating;

The thickness of plywood for the wooden floor with insignificant "waviness" should be at least 8-10 mm. If the parquet or laminate will be stacked as a clean floor to increase the thickness of up to 10-16 mm. Under carpet and linoleum, the thickness increases to 16-18 mm. Installation in the apartment or home of heavy furniture or equipment will require thickness up to 21 mm.

Plywood laying technology on wooden floor

The first step towards the smooth floor is the preparation of a wooden floor to laying plywood.

If necessary, you should fix the tenting boards, reduce or eliminate the creaking when walking. Fix the boards is best screwed by screws (self-drawing). Each nail to which the boards of the old floor must be dried into a tree by 1-2 mm.

The next step is to fulfill the calculations for the correct installation and cutting the plywood sheets.
What must be taken into account in the calculations:

the type of foundation on which the plywood will be laid - the old floor or the lag shap;
installation of sheets on the principle of brickwork - with a displacement of half of the sheet;
linear dimensions of the room;
the gaps on the thermal expansion of the material - 1-1.5 cm from each of the walls and 3-4 mm between the sheets of plywood.

If the installation is carried out on top of the floorboards, plywood sheets are recommended to cut into 4 equal parts, which will make it easier to work, allow to detect internal defects (bundle), and replace them with intact sheets.

In the case of laying sheets to the crate, the cutting of sheets should be carried out, taking into account the shade of the crate in such a way that sheets of sheets accounted for the center of the lag. Depending on the thickness of the sheets, the shaft step is 30 or 40 cm.

Before the cutting sheets, on the basis of the calculations carried out, the laying circuit and numbers are numbered. This allows you to calculate the number of standard plywood pieces (sheet quartens), as well as the number and sizes of pieces under the clipping.

Before starting cutting and laying plywood, it is important to withstand her a few days in the room, putting into a stack or putting on the edge. The exposure time depends on the difference in the temperature of the warehouse from which the Paneur was brought, and the premises in which it will be mounted. The more differential, the longer you should wait.

After cutting sheets, you can start their mount. Starting the installation of sheets is comfortable from that corner of the room, which is closest to direct (90 degrees). It is worth using the construction area to compare the values \u200b\u200bof each angle.

Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, the length of which should be 3 times the thickness of plywood. Prior to the start of installation, the following operations perform:

in the places of fastening of self-tapping screws in the plywood, the holes are drilled by a diameter of 2 mm less than the diameter of the working part of the self-press;
cencing holes under the diameter of the screw of the self-press;
the fastening step between self-draws is chosen at 30-40 cm;
make an indentation from the edge of a sheet of at least 2 cm.

The substrate under Paneur on the wooden floor may fit with additional thermal and sound insulation. Complete the installation of the installation of each sheet in its place in accordance with the scheme and fastened with screws.

Cyclical - time consuming and efficient alignment

In the absence of plans to use flooring after alignment, it is recommended to produce the latter by means of a mechanical cycle technique.
Step-by-step manual alignment of the wooden floor with a cycular unit looks like this:

Liberation of the room from furniture. In the absence of the possibility of removal of construction, it is covered with a polyethylene film.
Removal from the associated floor of all nails and fasteners, which can negatively affect the cycular apparatus, to bring it out of order.
Equipment with tight gloves, headphones and respirator, protecting ears and hands from strong vibrations and noise machines, and the respiratory tract - from fine wood dust.
The beginning of the cyclovka process from the far corner of the room. The first layer is removed neatly by moving around the room snake.
Burning all the slots and holes in the floor with a putty appropriate color of the coating.
Repeated flooring after drying putty.
Cleaning formed dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.
Wiping the surfaces with a lint-free cloth moistened in a degreasing agent.
Treatment of aging lacquer.

Theoretically, the cycle can be performed manually. However, a special cycular apparatus will significantly speed up the process. In this case, we are not talking about units, but dozens or even hundred times, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. In addition, the manual cycular can not boast of high quality, which means that it will not correspond to the expected result.

Floor repair may include a range of works - this is alignment, and external finish. Sometimes the question arises about raising the floor level in the apartment. How to fulfill all the work correctly and do not make mistakes, this article will tell.

Usually while repairs in an apartment or house - especially the old planning, where the ceilings are quite low - they try to make the floors during the alignment raising slightly. But in certain situations, the floor level can still need some increase.

Quite often, the floor raising procedure is associated with redevelopment of the room. For example, the floor can climb the loggia to then remove part of the wall and increase the room space. Also, sometimes it is necessary to align the floors in the entire apartment and make them on the same level, and here too, most likely, you will have to raise a little at some room.

In adjacent rooms, the floors can have different heights, and they can differ both significantly and just a few millimeters. It depends on the home itself and the type of room layout.

In a private house, raising the floor level may be needed for laying an additional layer of thermal insulation, if there is not previously laid enough. To do this, it is necessary to lift the base for several cm (about 10) to lay insulated material into the emptiness.

In general, the procedure for lifting the floor requires certain knowledge and considerable monetary and labor costs. At the same time, the work is not conducted immediately in all rooms, if the front of work is assumed throughout the dwelling. Raise the floor level is made in each room separately according to individually made calculations.

Important! Before you decide how the floor is raised, it is necessary to make calculations and find out what load can withstand overlap without prejudice and damage.

All calculations are made taking into account the selection of the finishing coating, as it is from its mass and will largely depend on the decision on how the floor will be raised. At the same time, if its type of coating is laid in different rooms, then the calculations are made individually for each of them.

On a note! The load on overlappings may not be calculated if the apartment is on the first floor, and there is no basement under it. If the basement is available, then you will have to calculate the load.

When calculating materials and permissible load, it can be processed from the fact that the ceiling slab in a concrete house is able to withstand the load of about 400 kg / m 2. And the density of reinforced concrete equals an average of about 2700 kg / m 3.

Floor raising methods

There are 4 main floor raising methods. In general, all of them are called tie. Consider them in the table below.

Table. Methods of raising floors.

Method	Short description
	This is the most popular and familiar method. Yes, and the most durable even with intensive operation. However, many builders do not like to use this method due to a long period of drying. It is possible to put the cement and sand tie to lay quickly, but it will dry after that for about a month. And other work during this period should be carried out in no way, otherwise all the works will go to the pump. Fix the mistakes allowed will be very difficult. Also, the cement-sand screed is a rather heavy way of alignment of the floor, and it gives the load on the overlap, it gives a colossal, which requires attentive calculation and taking into account the number of materials and the permissible height of the screed.
	This is a special type of screed, which is performed using special self-sewing construction mixtures. It is usually used for additional floor alignment and in the event that it is necessary to increase slightly. The type of mixture of floors is selected depending on which conditions will be used - with a wet or dry room, in heated or without heating, etc. One of the main advantages of such a method to increase the level of the floor is a high speed of drying up the flooded layer. However, it is important to remember that the bulk floors are very demanding to the state of the base - it should be well cleaned of garbage and aligned. Yes, and such mixtures are not suiced, but at the same time they require much attention in the process of fill.
	To raise the floor level, you can make plaster floors - this is the so-called dry screed. GWL plates are stacked on a leveled clay. In this case, the installation occurs quickly, the process does not produce a large amount of dirt, the work on the design of floors can be continued almost immediately after laying the plates, another method of raising the floor significantly increases the heat and sound insulation of the base. But the GBL of the Floors have and disadvantages are a waterproof, and in the case of a significant raising of the floor level, there will have to use a lot of subfins from the clay and over time because of this, the floors can occur.
	This method, like a cement-sand screed, is considered one of the most popular and refers to the traditional. Especially often began to be used recently both for the arrangement of floors in private houses and in apartments. It makes it possible to lift the floor for a certain amount with special accuracy and is ideal for laying laminate and parquet. Works are performed rather quickly, after their end to laying the finish coating, you can start immediately. Floor level This method can be raised to 15 or more cm, and the overlap will not have a significant load. In the voids remaining between lags, you can place various communications or make additional insulation of the floors. But the lagroom has its own drawbacks - if the work is incorrect, the floors can begin to creak or fade.

How to lift the floor in a wooden house

In a wooden house, the floors can be lifted by any of the above methods - here you do not need to worry about the load on the overlap, since there are no. Optimal options are wooden lags or cement screed. And it is worth choosing depending on which method will like the owner of the house.

Important! When installing the floor in a wooden house, do not forget about high-quality insulation, as well as on mandatory waterproofing of floors. Otherwise, the floors will quickly come into disrepair.

If in a private floor, the floors should be raised at a considerable height, then you can combine the cement screed, and lags. First, a concrete base is made, on which the wooden design is then installed.

How to raise the floor in the apartment?

In the apartment raising the floor is made in different ways depending on where the work will be made. Kitchen, bedroom, bathroom or loggia - everywhere floor level will rise in its own way.

It should be guided by the following principles: if the floors rise to 8 cm levels, then the screed is easiest to make a wet method, that is, with the use of cement-sand mixture. In some cases, the overlapping may be additionally covered with a clay mixture. If the apartment is above the first floor, then you can do without additional insulation.

On a note! The usual screed in itself will give rise to the height in the room to 5 cm even without laying the insulation or lag.

If the rooms are planned to create a multi-level screed, that is, in each room there will be a certain height floor, the calculations are made for each of them separately. It is best to use the way with lags, because such a design is most convenient to change the height.

Lifting the floor in the bathroom or kitchen

The kitchen and the bathroom are the room where the humidity of the air is quite high. Therefore, to raise the level of floors, it is not recommended to use structures from wood or drywall. The optimal option is a cement-sand screed or bulk floors.

In mandatory, a layer of waterproofing materials is laid. This can rubberoid, polyethylene film. It is also worth remembering that the floor level in the bathroom or toilet should not be exactly the same as in other rooms. The fact is that it is precisely in these premises and sweats occur due to the presence of water pipes. And if the floor level here is the same as in other rooms, then when flooding an apartment, water will fall into other premises. Small thresholds or drop will allow water to stay in the bathroom.

Important! If the pipes are replaced, then all communications change until the screed is filling. Otherwise, you will have to produce a number of additional work on the creation of holes in the floor laying.

Raising the floor on the loggia or balcony

The floor level on the loggia or the balcony during construction is often lower than in the rest of the premises. However, it is often raised in order not to stumble about the resulting threshold. Also lifting the floor level on the balcony and loggia is made in the event that this part of the housing is planned to be combined with the room in which it is located.

When lifting the floor level on the balcony should take care of waterproofing. To this end, the base can be treated with bitumen mastics or close the film.

Raise floor level in rooms

In the rooms, choose the method of raising the floors stands according to its own preferences, the power of the overlaps and the properties of the selected finish coating. Since the area in residential premises is usually greater than in a bathroom or bathroom, then the mass of the tie from cement will be significant here. Thus, in the rooms for lifting the floor it is easier to use a system of lag from a tree.

In general, the level of the floor usually rises as much as possible up to 10 cm, and according to average indicators - only 2-3 cm. If the floors need to be raised, then it is also recommended to use the Lag system. The voids between them can be filled with insulation or other materials so as not to "move through the air". It is optimal as a placeholder to use mineral wool, foam.

So, the following aspects affect the choice of a method of raising the level.

Budget funds for repair. Some materials are more expensive, others are cheaper, and you need to correctly calculate all possible options and choose the optimal one.
Rationality of the work. It is not always necessary to choose a complex and time-consuming option, sometimes it is quite simple - it is enough to raise the floors without effort and with minimal cost.
Labor cost. It is always worth an adequate to evaluate your time and strength that will have to be applied to perform certain works.

Floor Level Raise Technology

We will get acquainted with the technology of raising the floor with the help of a cement-sand tie.

The floors in the room where work will be performed are carefully cleaned from the garbage and are aligned as much as possible. After that, with the help of the construction level, a markup is applied to the wall, noting the level of laying the clay mixture. With the help of the roulette, the height from the rough base is measured to the marked line. This is necessary to calculate the amount of the mixture.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe room is calculated. The required amount of material is purchased and the sand-concrete mixture M 300, as well as the reinforcing grid with a cross section 6x6 cm.

Peskobeton - Dry Mix