Proper garage warming with their own hands. Warm garage from above DONAZUE A cheap way to insulate the garage

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed consultation.

Such a type of work as a garage warming can be easily done independently. But to do the work qualitatively and reliably, you need to know all the features of the technology and perform some simple recommendations. I will tell you about your own experience of work, my option is most as simple as possible even to those who have no experience in this area, it is enough to repeat all actions.

Description of the workflow

I came across different options for the design of garages, and each of them needs to be insulated in its own way. To achieve the best effect, you need to separate 4 elements of the structure, each of them represents a separate stage:

Walls;
Roof;
Doors.

Another nuance, which in no case should be overlooked when working with your own hands - a device of a high-quality ventilation system. It is necessary that air flow amounted to 180 m3 per hour per 1 car, for this, a fairly standard pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

So that the machine is not covered with an embryo, the temperature in the winter should not exceed +17 degrees. The optimal indicator is +5, but if you are engaged in the work in the garage, then the insulation must be more solid.

Walls

Consideration of the issue, how to insulate the garage, you need to start from the walls, since this is the largest part of the design. Personally, I worked with such options:

Concrete walls;
Wooden design;
Metal system.

The technology of insulation of each type has its own characteristics, so choose a solution that is best suited for your structure.

The insulation of the garage from reinforced concrete slabs or brick can be made from the inside, and outside, the choice of a specific option depends on what is more convenient in your case. Personally, I advise you to use outdoor insulation if possible, since this is a more efficient way in which condensate is not formed inside the walls.

Outdoor work is made like this:

First of all, it is necessary to clean the base from dirt and dust and check its condition. If there are cracks and damage, they must be sealing, for this you can use both cement mortar and the mounting foam - it fills all the cavities well and prevents the loss of heat through them. The surface should be smooth and dry, it is impossible to work with wet walls;
It is then processed by the primer composition of deep penetration, it strengthens the surface and improves adhesion of the adhesive composition with the surface. I advise you to use formulations with antiseptic additives to prevent the appearance of mold when moisture getting;

It is not worth spending time, finding out which insulation is better, in the garage does not need a super-quality insulation, and quite ordinary foam 3 cm thick. If the walls are very thin, then the option is 5 cm. Sheets are glued to a special composition, the glue is applied not to the entire surface, But only around the perimeter and in the pair of points in the middle. The work is simple, I have already described it in detail in one of the reviews;

After a day, you can continue to work, for reliability, the insulation is additionally fixed by dowels. According to the technology, they are required by 5 pieces on the sheet, but the flow can be reduced, placing elements are not on the sheet itself, but at the joints, as shown in the diagram. The length of the fastener should be 5-7 cm more than the thickness of the insulation used;

The outer surface is strengthened by the reinforcing mesh and is delayed by a special composition., I also described this process in detail in a separate review, it is simple, although it requires certain time spending. The last stage is either applying decorative primer, or staining, everything depends on your wishes.
The second option is wooden buildings. If you have a frame option, then you need to lay a foam of a thickness of 10 cm inside the construction while erected, we will consider the situation when the structure has already been erected and you need to inspire:
Such buildings easier to insulate from the inside, and the work begins with packing bars, the thickness of which should be the same as the thickness of the insulation, and the position of the location is the same as the size of the sheets used. It will save you from unnecessary work on cutting elements and their fit under each part of the system;

The distance between the bars should be 3-5 mm less than the width of the foam, then you can put it very tightly, and you will have much less compacted joints afterwards.

The surface is then closed with a vapor insulating film, it is attached to the stapler and is needed in order to eliminate moisture penetration outside, but at the same time unhindered to produce evaporation from the inside. Do not save and make a vapor insulation layer, it will make it possible to noticeably increase the service life of your garage;
Foam sheets are tightly located between the bars, if necessary, elements are cut. The main thing is to ensure a dense adjoining of all the items to each other. As a rule, after the end of laying the insulation, the cracks still eat, the easiest way to close them with the help of a mounting foam, it will perfectly fill all empties, and after drying it, it is easily cut off with a construction knife;

Finish finish can be made with the help of different materials. Personally, I like the moisture-resistant oriented chipboard, but can also be applied and dryer and conventional wooden lining. The first option is good in that it is perfectly opposed to temperature drops and at the same time initially has an attractive appearance.

Finally, the third option is a metal garage, it can be made from ordinary sheets or from a professional flooring, in any case, you need high-quality insulation, since the iron structures are poorly held warm. To work, the foam should be used not thinner than 5 cm thick.

Many advise to fix the walls of a wooden bar or a metal profile to create a crate, but those who give such tips, apparently never tried to fix the frame to the metal surface. It is much easier to do with a special glue, which is sold in the same cylinders as the mounting foam, and is distinguished by excellent reliability, I glued a foam with it for about 10 years ago and so far no sheet fell off.

Modern garage designs are made in such a way that from the inside the framework is initially installed, between which it is very convenient to lay the insulation. Those who use not foam, and Minvatu, often ask the question of which insulation is better: a sheet or rolled - from the professionalist is made durable, but cold structures, therefore it is better to warm their readiness, and for this more suited a dense version in the form of plates.

As for the workflow, it is quite simple:

It is necessary to clean the surface from dirt and dust, if it is galvanized, then additional processing is not required, and if an ordinary metal sheet is used, the base is mandatory to be processed by primer;
Then you can begin gluing sheets, the composition is not applied to the entire surface, but only around the perimeter and in the middle of the cross. The work is made using a special pistol that allows you to accurately dose;

The slots on the joints can be filling over the same adhesive composition, after drying, its excess is cut off with a construction knife.

Roof

In practice, I have already encountered a situation several times when a person warmed the walls very well, but in the garage is still cold. This is not surprising - still from the school year of physics, it is known that the heat always rises up, and if the roof is not very good roof (and it is like this in the garages), then at least 80% of heat will fly out into the sky.

So that this does not happen, we will deal with how to insulate the roof of the garage. There are two options - outer and internal thermal insulation.

As for the first option, the roof insulation outside the garage is used on flat roofs from the reinforced concrete slabs of the overlapping, it is also used for structures from the professional flooring, the general scheme of such a roof is presented below.

It will take the following to work:

Parosolation material	It covers on the basis and provides reliable protection against moisture surface, which can cause corrosion or mold. It is important to purchase a qualitative option, low price most often indicates a low product reliability, remember this
Insulation	It is better to use not the usual foam, but extruded polystyrene foam, since this option is much more reliable and stronger. Technology involves two-layer insulation, but you can do with one sheet with a thickness of 5 cm, this is quite enough in our case
Roofing material	There are two options: either classic waterproof, which you need to warm up the burner and glue, or more modern and practical PVC membrane. The second option is easier in the work, but to glue the elements, you need to have a special soldering iron at hand, although if the design width is no more than 3 meters, then no gluing is needed

The instructions for carrying out work looks like this:

Parosolation material is stacked on a pre-purified base. The joints are made with a punch of 10-15 cm for reliable protection, it is important to close the entire surface completely;
The next stage is the laying of the insulation, if you use extruded expanded polystyrene, the work is simplified due to the presence of grooves on the sheets of sheets. At the bottom of the roof it is better to fix either a rail, or a metal corner in order to make focus for the insulation;
Finally, the surface is closed with roofing material, the technology of work has depends on the selected option. We will not consider this aspect in detail, since our review is devoted to insulation.

The insulation version from the inside seems to me more efficient, as it is possible to achieve the so-called thermos effect due to the correct technology of work:

First of all, Penofol is fixed on the surface - this is a new generation insulation, which is a foamed polyethylene, one side of which is covered with reflective material. On wooden structures, the material is fixed with a stapler, and it is better to use the option with a self-adhesive surface on the metal;

Then the rails are fixed on the surface, the height of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. The frame may be more reliable if you will hold the finish finish and may be less capital if you just want to insulate the ceiling;
The foam plastic is tightly placed in the framework, to ensure greater reliability of the attachment, all joints are treated with a special adhesive composition or mounting foam.

Floor

Another part of the structure, which many for some reason is missed from the species, and meanwhile, cold penetrately penetrate into the garage in the garage. So that this does not happen, you should take care of its insulation in advance. We'll figure it out how to properly carry out work, especially since there is nothing difficult in the process, if you know all the nuances of this process.

I will talk about three insulation options, you need to choose the one that best suits your garage. If you have no screed and you only build a garage, then this technology will be the best solution:

Deepening across the entire area is about 40 cm, that is, you need to choose a soil and align the base. After that, a pillow of sand or gravel with a thickness of approximately 5 cm with a thickness of approximately 5 cm, it must be aligned and tamped;
Then the floor is put on a dense film that will serve as a waterproofing barrier., it should go on the walls by 35-40 cm. All joints are sickling with scotch, to ensure maximum reliability;
The next step is to fall asleep clamzite with a layer of 25-30 cm, it is such a thickness that provides good thermal insulation, thin layer is inffective and quickly freezes at low temperatures. A metal mesh is placed on the surface, which will strengthen the surface and make it resistant to cracking;

The last layer is a cement screed, the thickness of which should be at least 5 cm to ensure reliability. Such a floor will not only be very durable, but also very warm.

The second option is in many ways similar to the first, but instead of a thick layer of claymps, a foam is used with a thickness of 3-5 cm, it is placed on a waterproof surface, after which the floor is flooded with cement mortar. The same way can be used if the screed is already there and it must be insulated.

For gender, it is necessary to use a foam with a density of at least 35 kg / mk., Since soft options can progress under the weight of the car.

Another way is used in cases when wooden floors on lags are made in the garage. In this case, some advise pouring sawdust or the same clay, but these options are not very effective, and it is worth using a foam, its cost is low, but the effect will be much better.

At the same time, the workflow is quite simple:

It does not matter where the lags are stacked on a concrete base or on the compacted ground, the surface is mandatory closed by waterproofing material. This can only be protected by wooden elements from moisture exposure, which will inevitably penetrate the Earth;
Next, the foam or extruded polystyrene foam is stacked between lags. It is important to place the sheets as close as possible, then the slots can not be seal, although if desired, it can be done. The insulation does not have to fill out all the space, even on the contrary - there should be a small cavity for the air movement and foam;

The last stage - flooring board floor, everything is simple, the main thing is to choose a durable option that will endure the weight of the car without any problems.

Doors

This element also requires close attention, because the doors in the garage are very large and often occupy a practically a whole wall. The quality warming of the garage cannot be imagined without a warm gate, the workflow is as follows:

Preparation depends on the type of design, if you have a tree door, then around the perimeter you need to navigate the bar equal to the thickness of the insulation. For a metal preparatory process consists in cleaning the surface from dirt and applying primers on it (if there is a rust on the metal);
Then you need to take the material to be used. Most often, people choose foam, but it is possible to apply extruded expanded polystyrene foam, which is much harder and has a smooth homogeneous surface. The fit is to trim the elements for the surface configuration, often there are corners, protrusions and other elements, the photo shows an example of an accurate and neat adjustment of the insulation;

The gluing is made using a mounting foam or a special adhesive composition, which is applied to the opposite direction, after which the sheets are pressed against the surface. To ensure the best effect, all the slots and joints are filled with foam, its excess is cut after it is full of frozen;

For some reason, in many reviews, such an important moment is overlooked as a seal of junctions and adjoins. To do this, you can use a special rubber seal, and if it is not possible to find it, you can take a car chamber, cutting it on the strips from making a rubber roller, which is running around the perimeter and perfectly copes with the functions of the seal.

To insulate a garage with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional builder, this review will help you to deal with all the nuances and high-quality work without any assistance.

Output

The insulation of the garage is an integrated process in which there are no trifles and each part of the design needs a separate attention. The video in this article will help you understand some of the work features even better, and if you have any questions - ask them in the comments under the review.

Another 10-15 years ago, the garages were built without insulation of walls, gender and ceiling. Therefore, during the cold season, it was impossible to use the room in full. With the advent of modern and inexpensive insulation, the technology of garage construction and finishing came to a new qualitative level. It became possible to warm the garage with your own hands.

There are two ways:

Warming out the garage outside. It is not always possible to perform in garage arrays, where the outer wall of the warmed garage is internal for the neighboring structure.
Warming of the walls of the garage from the inside. Can be performed at any location of the structure.

Garages are more often insulated from the inside. Before starting work, you need to calculate the dew point. If you do not take into account this parameter, the walls will mock, the fungus will appear.

Before heating the garage from the inside, it is necessary to understand what materials are applied. Learn their positive and negative properties.

The inner space of the garage consists of gender, walls, ceiling and gate. Everyone is insulated separately:

walls insulation with foam, mineral wool, plaster, foaming (liquid foam), polyurethane foam;
for sex, clamzite is applied, less often foam;
for the ceiling is used foam, foaming or mineral wool;
the gate is trimmed by foam.

An important indicator for all materials of this group is thermal conductivity. Below is a summary table of average values:

Warming garage from the inside is not performed from blocks. Of these, new boxes are being built.

A light porous insulation for the floor or the basement of the garage refers to cheap materials. The thermal conductivity of the ceramisite is about 1.5 times higher than that of the polyfoam, but 10 times lower than that of brick masonry. This puts it on average positions on heat. Not used in the insulation of the walls of the garage.

At the burden ceramisite, the water absorption coefficient is not more than 20%, it is not afraid of sudden temperature drops, it does not burn. Ceramzite is harmless to the body, since it does not allocate harmful vapors.

Mineral wool

This is a class of artificial insulation with a fibrous structure. It consists of rocks, glasses and slags. Wall insulation Garage from the inside mineral wool is very common due to its high thermal insulation characteristics. According to this indicator, mineral wool at one level with foam. It absorbs sound waves well, practically does not burn. The basalt mineral wool has high compressive strength.

The only minus is the high coefficient of water absorption. It is possible to warm the walls with its help only with the condition for subsequent plaster or other hermetic surface sealing.

Styrofoam

The most efficient, cheap and popular garage insulation. It consists of small granules, reliably and hermetically soldered together. The insulation of the foam of the garage from the inside with his own hands is the most energy efficient method.

Polyfoam has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. It does not absorb water and does not miss steam. This light material that does not weaken the bearing capacity of the wall, ceiling or gate.

Polyfoam enters a chemical reaction with many chemicals. It cannot be used in aggressive environments. During combustion, the foam allocates hazardous phenolic compounds.

Polystyrene foam

According to the installation method, it is practically no different from the foam. He has a lower coefficient of water absorption, higher density. Warming garage from the inside polystyrene foam is more expensive than a similar operation of foam.

Penosop

This is an analogue of foam for the walls, which is applied in a liquid form. Penosol is not different from foam plastic with thermal conducting characteristics. He has a combustion class M-1. He absorbs water well, but does not accumulate in himself, but evaporates into the atmosphere. Penosol hygroscopic vapor-permeable insulation.

Warming garage do it yourself

Most of the garages are built of brick or foam block. Therefore, the question often arises how to insulate a brick garage, and not metallic.

Works are divided into several stages:

walls;
goal;
ceiling.

Walls

The insulation of the garage with their own hands is primarily facing of the walls. Through them are lost most of the heat. So what to insulate the walls in the brick garage?

Casting walls sheets of foam

This is the answer to the question, how to warm the garage cheap.

The walls are cleaned of old plaster and paint. All irregularities are lubricated by cement-sandy solution.
After drying the walls are impregnated with soil or antiseptic to destroy mold and fungus.
Then there are plates of foam 100 mm thick. To do this, uses a toothed spatula and special glue.
After 24 hours, a plaster mesh is attached to the foam. For this, a little solution is attached and the stack is pressed into it.
Then the surface is plastered and putty. You can use both the finished facade plaster in bags and the cement-sandy solution M150. It is better not to spend the forces on an independent kneading solution, and buy ready-made dry mixes.

Installation of the insulation of the frame

More expensive, but efficient and reliable way to insulate the walls of the garage:

The surface of the walls is determined, all the bulges are removed. Poins and cracks are expanded and sealed with cement-sandy solution.
A roller on the walls is applied an antiseptic or ground penetration soil. This destroys mold and fungus.
After drying, the wall is trimmed with polyethylene film or membrane vaporizolation.
With the help of a laser level, two horizontal guides are installed. One goes on the floor, the other under the ceiling. For this, a wooden bar is 100 × 50 mm or a metal profile. They are attached to the wall with the help of anchors or dowel-sams.
Vertical guides are installed in increments of 600-800 mm. Absolute accuracy is not needed here. Therefore, for installation, you can use a normal level or plumb. Vertical guides are made of timber100 × 50 mm or metal profile. Mixed to the wall in the same way as horizontal guides.
Inter-barracks are inserted by insulation sheets. If the foam is used, then it is attached to glue. Then the additional fastening of sheets with plastic dowels in the shape of a mushroom is carried out. Communication rate for one sheet 5-6 pieces. Seams are closed by mounting foam.

If a dense basalt mineral wool is used, the glue is not required. It is enough to fasten with plastic dowels. The seams between the sheets are closed with the help of cusks of mineral wool.

For the walls, tinted with mineral wool, a second layer of waterproofing from the indoor room is required. Foam is not needed additional protection against moisture.

Cleaning or profiled sheet is used for trim. Whatmaterial to choose, the matter of taste of each person.

More labor and material costs will be required to cover the walls of plasterboard sheets or cement-chipboard. They are attached to the frame using wood screws or metal 30-40 mm. The joints between the sheets are sampled with a grid and put off. At the end stage, the walls are sweeping and color.

Insulation of the garage of polyurethane foam requires the involvement of third-party housing construction organizations. It is impossible to perform work work.

Floor

Basically, the heat insulation of the floor of the garage is carried out by two materials: clayjit or foam. A cement-sand screed is used as a coating.

Heat insulation of floor clamzit

On the perimeter of the garage, a pit of a depth of 250-300 mm is digging. The bottom lines and lighthouses are installed in several places. To obtain a mounting horizon, a laser or water level is used.
The bottom of the pit is covered with rubberoid or polyethylene film. 300 mm bend from all sides.
Claims falls asleep. The layer thickness is equal to the depth of the pit. After the backfill, the surface is focused on beacons using the rule. Then the lighthouses are removed.
From above, the clamzite is stacked with a rifle reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It can be bought or gather directly at the construction site. For this, the reinforcement rods are cut in size and unfold crossing the cross. The size of the cells is 100-150 mm. Between the rods are connected by knitting wire.
A bench profile is stacked on the grid with a pitch of 600 mm.
A cement-sand screed is poured. The solution can be ordered or kneaded in place. Pouring starts from a long corner. Layer thickness 100-120 mm. After filling the surface of the floor is equal to the rule. After 48 hours, the screed can be lost. This uses a half-alone and a small amount of solution.

The term of complete drying of the screed is 28 days. Works on further insulation can be started 7 days after the fill. To avoid the appearance of cracks, the screed is spilled by water every 12 hours within 3 days.

Heat insulation by floor foam

Option when you do not need to dig a pit. The insulation can be laid on an old coating:

Old coating is cleaned of dirt. If there are large quantities, they close.
Polyethylene film or runner fitted on the floor. This is a layer of waterproofing.
On the finished base, the sheets of extruded polyfoam density are not lower than C-25 are stacked. The thickness of the insulation layer must be 100 mm, you can lay the litas in one layer with a thickness of 100 mm. It is much more reliable to use foam 50 mm, laying sheets in two layers.

All joints are closed by mounting foam.

From above, the foam is closed by a layer of waterproofing from a polyethylene film or rubberoid. On each side there is a launch on the wall100 mm.
The reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 100-120 mm is placed on the waterproofing. The grid is stacked for small living, so the solution will be able to check it under it.
The screed is poured on the grid. The technologies of the carrier base device is no different.

Goal

Metallic garage doors are the main source of heat loss. If you completely insulate the perimeter, but do not touch the gate, then the work will be wasted. Before starting insulation, you can build an additional curtain. For this, you will need two wooden rails and dense reinforced polyethylene.

The first rail is attached above the gate. The film is cut into strips with a width of 200-300 mm and a length of 20 mm less than the distance from the rail to the floor. The stripes are then nailed with the allen on top of each other. The second rail is stuffed on the first. It turns out a reliable fastening.

The curtain is ready, you can proceed directly to the warming of the target:

The inner part of the garage gate is placed by polyethylene film.
A frame of a wooden bar of 50 × 50 mm is collected frame. It is screwed to the tunnel of the gate with the help of metal screws. Pre-wooden bars are processed by an antiseptic.

The thickness of the frame for the frame should always correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

Foam sheets are inserted into the resulting frame. They are glued to the inner surface of the gate with glue. It must be chosen carefully, since the foam can enter with glue into the chemical reaction and collapse. Sheets pressed as close as possible to the surface of the gate.
Button seams are closed by mounting foam.
From above, the foam is sewn with a clapboard or profiled sheet with a screw of the drill.

Ceiling

According to the production technology of works, the ceiling insulation is not different from the insulation of the walls. The insulation sheets are attached to a frame of a frame of a tree or metal and are sewn with lining, drywall or any other finishing material.

Video: Garage insulation

In this article, detailed instructions, how to warm your garage correctly. How to perform the work of cheap, but the best materials. The main thing to follow the advice, not to hurry and thoughtfully approach each stage of finishing. Then the result will not make himself wait.

Requirements for garage insulation are not so tough as the insulation of residential premises. But still they are. The thermal insulation should provide an optimal microclimate indoor for normal storage conditions of the car.

What temperature should be in the garage?

Many motorists believe that the temperature in the garage must be comfortable for a person. However, it is not. Optimal parameters: the minimum temperature should not be descended below +5 ° C (winter) and rise above +20 ° C (maximum). At the same time, the smaller the difference between the external and internal temperature - the less likelihood of the appearance of "Spains", condensate by car and subsequent corrosion.

Some owners for increasing the temperature in the garage cover ventilation holes. It is categorically forbidden to do it, because Ventilation is responsible for the withdrawal of carbon monoxide, the influx and purification of air, prevents the appearance of dampness. Normal natural supply-exhaust ventilation will eliminate similar negative phenomena.

Warming of the garage from the inside and outside with your own hands

Consider how to warm the garage from different positions and using different materials.

1. From the position of the placement of the insulation

This is an important aspect, because Each type of insulation has its advantages and disadvantages. Pros and cons of thermal insulation outside (from the street) and from the inside (from the inside), the comparison when which method is justified or appropriate.

Warming garage outside

Advantages of outdoor insulation:

the probability of freezing the walls of the garage is reduced. The waterproof point shifts toward the insulation. Among other things, it increases the life of the walls themselves;
reduced risk of condensate;
a favorable environment is eliminated for the development of fungi;
the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises remains unchanged;
there is no need to dismantle the shelves and endure everything for work;
the harmful effect on evaporation man from insulation;
the cost and complexity of work is reduced.

Warming of the garage from the inside

To this method resorted when:

there is no possibility to perform outdoor (external) insulation. For example, a garage is located in the block, i.e. is located between other garages and has a common wall with them;
there is no possibility or desire to dismantle the shelves indoors;
as a heater, sprayed thermal insulation material (polyurethane foam, ppa or foaming) will be used. Possessing the minimum thickness, sprayed thermal insulation does not affect the useful area and due to excellent adhesion with the surface eliminates the appearance of condensate on the walls and the ceiling.

Disadvantages of internal insulation:

reduction of the useful garage area;
displacement of the dot drainage inside the room, in the place of the insulation of the insulation to the wall. The result of which becomes gradual destruction of the walls of the garage.

Thus, if there is an opportunity, it is better to give preference to the outer method of insulation.

2. From the position of the insulated insulation

Considering how to insulate the garage, you can face the presence of a number of materials that have similar or various properties, but recommended for the implementation of thermal insulation work.

Which insulation for the garage is better to choose?

Requirements for insulation:

gigroscopicity. Regardless of the environment, the material must perform its functions. And, as you know, the wet insulation loses its heat-insulating ability. Of course, it is possible to provide additional protection to any material, but this will affect the estimate of the work;

thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator, the longer heat will be kept in the garage;

heat inertia. Shows how fast the room cools. The thermal inertia is inversely proportional to thermal conductivity;

fire safety. The insulation should not support the burning;

price. If the goal is pursued to perform a garage insulation inexpensive, then you need to pay attention to this parameter. And it is not to repel not from the cost of the insulation (cheap - it does not always mean badly), but from the total amount of expenses that include other materials, tools and payment of wage labor;

easy processing and editing.

Such criteria correspond to several thermal insulation materials.

Table of thermal conductivity of insulation

Warming of the garage of foam

The most common option, allowing relatively cheap to ensure the heat insulation of the garage. The leading position of the foam was provided: low price, hygroscopicity, excellent thermal insulation properties, low weight, availability, simplicity of installation. Among the disadvantages: flammability, exposure to ultraviolet, the ability to crumble. Polyfoam needs protection.

Insulation of the garage polystyolistol

It is an improved version of foam. The main component of polystyrene is styrene with the addition of foaming. Extruded expanded polystyrene does not support combustion, hygroscopic and has excellent thermal insulation indicators. In addition, it is not a medium for the development of bacteria and withstands the impact of certain chemical reagents. However, petroleum products, alcohol and organic solvents can harm it.

From the point of view of installation, polystyrene foam is also preferred, because Due to the dense structure more convenient in operation and has a reliable connecting system "Groove - Comb", which reduces the area of \u200b\u200bcold bridges. The relative disadvantage can be considered higher than the foam value. One of the patented trading brands of polystyrene is the Penoplex (thermal insulation plates from Penoplex foamed polystyrene). The insulation of the Garage Painoplex has the same advantages and disadvantages as the polystyrene foam.

Warming garage Peniosol

Penosol is a carbamide-formaldehyde foam. It has advantages similar to the materials described above and several additional. The most important of them is to insulation technology. Penosol is pumped into technical voids, for this in the finished structure, holes are made and the solution fills the space between the frame, wall, floor or roof, and in the voids under construction. Thus, insulating with foamizol, is the most sealed of all existing, because It does not have seams and junctions, fills all the slots.

Often, foamizole is called liquid foam, for its turnover and good insulating properties. At the same time, it possesses optimal vapor permeability. However, the insulation of the garage of foam is difficult to perform independently, because Works are conjugate with a number of difficulties. Among them: the need for cooking mixtures directly near the garage (a lot of space is required), the need to use special equipment for the preparation and injection of the mixture (foamizol is injected under pressure).

In addition, it should be noted that in the Western European countries and some states of the United States, foamizol is prohibited for installation in residential premises.

Insulation of the garage polyurethane foam

PPU also refers to the number of liquid insulation. But, in contrast to foamizol, its basis is plastic (polymers). Thus, the informative of the material additional properties, such as: elasticity, the integrity of the structure (the material does not crumble), good adhesion with any surfaces.

Polyurethane foam is applied by spraying on the surface. The PPU, in contrast to the foamizol, is not prohibited in any country of the world, and can be applied without restrictions, subject to the observation technology. Thus, the insulation of the garage of the PPU is the most progressive option, but also the most expensive.

Warming of garage Penophol

Heater Penofol - Thin foil material made of foamed polyethylene. Penofol is rarely used as an independent insulation, but, to the number of advantages can be attributed: low thickness, the ability to reflect heat, ease of installation, environmental friendliness.

Garage insulation Minvata

Mineral or glass gamble have one common drawback - they are afraid of moisture, and therefore need additional protection with films of hydro, vaporizolation. In addition, the wool is a flexible thermal insulation material, i.e. To install it requires the installation of a frame. All this leads to the fact that wool, despite the excellent thermal insulation properties, is rarely used to insulate the garage.

Warming of garage clamitis

Another thermal insulation material that is used to insulate the garage. Ceramzite falls asleep on the floor or roof overlap. The advantages of clay gravel - has high strength, environment resistance, available and easy to fill.

3. From the position of the material from which the garage is built

The table shows the thermal conductivity of materials that are often used for the construction of garages (concrete, foam concrete, ceramzitobetone, aerated concrete, reinforced concrete, brick, metal structures, wood, bar, log, professional flooring, chipboard, OSP). It can be seen from the table that each material has its own indicators of thermal conductivity, which imposes its imprint to the selection of thermal insulation material.

Table of thermal conductivity of building materials

warming of iron garage. The building material is a thick and tight sheet iron. In this case, the insulation is performed at mandatory, because This is the coldest type of construction, which means that the use of high density materials and a significant thickness, for example, a foam with a density of 25 kg / mkb, 100 mm thick;

warming of metal garage. For construction, professional flooring or thin sheet metal is used. Such material similarly requires the use of a thick layer of thermal insulation;

warming of concrete garage. Concrete walls have a thickness of at least 200 mm. and can be formed from blocks or by monolithic pouring concrete solution. Concrete is a good conductor for heat, so the surfaces of surfaces must be taken seriously;

warming of a brick garage. Bricks are used for different types and density, and, accordingly, with different indicators of thermal conductivity. For example, a garage from the hollow brick is warmer, it can be insulated with foam, and from silicate - coolest and requires the use of foam;

wooden garage insulation. The tree is able to store heat for a long time, but is subject to deformations over time. The insulation technology is more reduced to the elimination of the gaps. As a rule, the insulation of the tree garage is performed by soft insulation;

warming of frame garage. Regardless of the material from which the framework is made, its manufacturer's technology itself provides for the possibility of installing the insulation between the skeleton supports. At the same time, a soft insulation is traditionally used for a wooden frame, and for metal - hard (foam, polystyrene foam or foam plates).

4. From the position of the front of the work performed

Warming of only one surface will give anything to increase the thermal insulation properties of the garage as a whole, so the work must be comprehensively, starting from the ceiling and ending with the floor. If the work is scheduled to be performed as the budget replenishes, you need to start with the warming of the gate.

Warming roof garage

Thermal insulation of the roof is the first stage of work. If there is a attic above the garage, then work can be performed in the attic, making a frame from a bar on the floor of the attic overlap and filling it with insulation. Wool, foam, ceramzit, and even sawdust can be played as a heat insulator;

Heat ceiling in the garage

Often the ceiling is warmed directly in the garage. When using hard insulation and even overlap, this type of work is relatively simple. The order of work is similar to the insulation of the walls. As decorative coating on the ceiling, light sheets of fiberboard or wooden, plastic lining are used.

Warming of the walls of the garage

The walls have the largest square, which means that the maximum heat goes through them. How to insulate the walls of the garage? For thermal insulation, both rigid and soft thermal insulation material can be used. The procedure for performing work does not depend on whether the insulation will be located inside or outside. Below is a brief step-by-step instruction that will refer to the front of the work of work with your own hands.

How to insulate the walls of the garage hard insulation

The technology of insulation of foam, expanded polystyrene, the penplex will be similar:

wall surface cleanse from garbage (protruding parts, irradiated paint, chips, dust, soot, etc.). Particular attention is paid to old coating. For example, plaster, which is well kept on the wall, you need to remove.
An important requirement for fastening thermal insulation material is a reliable basis. Additionally, you can walk along the surface with a metal brush;

Note. Professable brush it is impossible to process, because A protective primer layer will break.

cover the walls of the primer, it will increase the adhesion of glue to the surface;

apply glue on a foam sheet. You can apply with modeling or toothed spatula. The glue in the cylinders has proven well;

install the foam in place and snugly press to the surface. The work begins with the installation of the lower sheets, which are based on a metal profile or a wooden bar (processed by antiseptics). Each subsequent series of insulation is laid with offset;

after laying all sheets, their additional fixation is performed with a dowel with an umbrella, and the voids between them are filled with by mounting foam or trimming of foam / expanded polystyrene;

then the polymer mesh is attached to the foam and is closed with adhesive solution;

the finishing finish is performed by plaster for internal or external work, as well as plastic clapboard, siding, etc.

How to insulate the walls of the garage soft insulation (cotton):

prepare and project the surface;

find on the wall frame. The distance between the bars is equal to the width of the insulation minus 15-20 mm. Masters advise not to use in the garage not wooden, but a metal frame.
Good reviews about frames from Gypsum Carton. Often it is enough to build only vertical guides. But with the height of the garage, more than 2,600 must be made crossbar to avoid sedimentation of the material. If the wool density is small, it is recommended to do in 1,000 mm;

place the waterproofing film in the frame. Film must be laid by Vangest. Film is attached to the frame with a stapler;

in the frame cells, the insulation is stacked;

film vaporizolation is mounted. Installation is also performed with a cleaner with a scope of the jacksqesch;

the finishing walls of the wall with a finishing material, which is suitable for specific operating conditions.

Note. If a heater is installed in the garage, it is impossible to use foam, but only mineral wool.

Floor insulation in the garage

If there is a basement under the garage floor, it does not make sense to warm it, and if it is located on the ground, then it is necessary. For floor insulation, rigid insulation or clayzit are used.

How to insulate the floor in the garage with clay

preparation of the foundation. This is dismantled by an existing floor covering. This stage can be skipped. But when using clay, it is assumed to improve the screed, and this will raise the floor level above the threshold and create difficulties with the arrival in the garage;

ruberoid or other material that performs waterproofing functions is placed on the base. Ruberoid bands are stacked by braziness and protrude on the wall at 300-400 mm;

the guides are exhibited for alignment of the layer in height;

ceramzit falls asleep between guides. Layer thickness 300-400 mm;

guides are removed, the place of their installation is covered with clay;

wooden lags are installed for mounting wooden flooring or metal lighthouses for a screed;
Council. A small slope will allow water to flock to the goal.

the screed is poured - cement-sandy solution (in proportion 1 to 3) or the flooring is stacked.
Note. According to reviews, wooden flooring in the garage quickly comes in disrepair.

lighthouses are extracted from the screed (no later than a day from the moment of filling the screed). Make it necessary, because The screed can be asked, and the lighthouse is deformed and the cause of the car tire punctures. The location of the beacons is filled with mortar.

Recommendation. Instead of clay, you can lay cotton wool, and how to use wood as a finish coating. But, in practice, such a design is not effective due to frequent contact with moisture (a melting snow that flows from the machine rainwater).

How to insulate the floor of the garage by foam, expanded polystyrene, penoplelex

a black screed is performed or a pillow of rubble and sand is pillow;
Note. The pillow can be deformed when laying insulation.

the surfaces of the insulation are stacked on the surface. Masters advise to connect sheets of sheets with a glue to avoid displacement;

beacons are exhibited by foam;

screed poured;

lighthouses are extracted from the solution, and their places are concreted.

Warming garage gate

Garage doors are the main source of heat loss. There are structures that consist of a gate and wicket. Then the area opened is much smaller. If only the sash open then one of the options can be selected:

install the veil from the inside of the garage. For this purpose, tarpaulin is used, dense fabric or thick film, fixed on the tension cable (string), a metal profile or a wooden slaughter under the ceiling so that it is possible to disperse the "speed".

use thermal insulation material. If it allows the design, the flaps of the gate can be removed (but given the high weight of the gate, work is performed by a canopy). Typically, the gate, both metal and wooden, have a hard frame. The insulation is placed in the frame cells and is fixed with glue "Liquid nails" on the surface of the sash. To protect the insulation, the lining, WHP or OSB sheets, fixed on the framework of the sash (trimming of the gate from the inside of the facing material).

Prelate the loss of heat and purging (drafts) will help the installation of seals around the perimeter of the sash.

Conclusion

Summarizing outlined: the insulation of the garage can be performed independently, the costs are only for the purchase of materials. As a result, the correct microclimate will provide a car the optimal storage conditions.

The maintenance of heat is a prerequisite for any room that will be operated in the winter season. This is especially true for garage buildings, which are open to "all winds" and, for the most part, are not adapted to install central heating. Adaptation of the garage to winter conditions is carried out by means of internal or outer insulation of walls, which allows you to maintain indoors the positive temperature even in severe frosts.

Where to warm: inside or outside?

To save heat inside the garage, you need to create a screen from a thermal material that will not skip the cold from the outside and retain the inner heat. The heat insulation layer can be located both outside the building and inside - the principle of maintaining heat in both cases is the same, however, each option has its own nuances that should be considered. The outer thermal insulation is more efficient, since it does not give cold to get to the walls and does not affect the inner part of the garage. But this method of insulation is more expensive and time-consuming - the creation of a masking facade, which will hide the insulation, will cost it somehow.

Internal insulation reduces the inner area of \u200b\u200bthe garage on the thickness of the insulating material, but it costs several times cheaper and does not require special skills for self-editing. If your main goal is directly prepared the garage to the cold and you do not plan large-scale construction work, then this method of insulation will be the best solution.

Selection of material

Almost any material with a porous or fibrous structure can be used as a heater - mineral wool, foam, polystyrene foam, organic insulation, etc. In general, for the insulation of the garage is appropriate to the use of any of the above names, if you guide the principle "worse will not become." However, if you have the ability to choose, it is better to get acquainted with all the advantages and disadvantages of various types of insulation to choose the most suitable name for a particular situation.

Polyfoam - Universal Garage Heater

Styrofoam. Foam plates are distinguished by low cost - this is the cheapest insulating material in the domestic market. Of the advantages of this material, a slight mass, moisture resistance and ease of processing are distinguished. Explicit consumers include high fire hazard and continuity.
Polystyrene foam. It has all the technical advantages of foam, but it is less combustible and more durable material. The price of the insulation is somewhat higher than the foam counterpart, but does not go beyond the permissible limits.
Mineral, basalt wool. A more perfect analogue of glass gambled in the Soviet Union. Absolutely not combustible material. The critical minus mineral wool is a fibrous structure that absorbs water as a sponge - with high humidity, the insulation flies, losing thermal insulation properties and contributing to the development of fungus.
Organic insulation. Analogue of mineral wool on an organic basis (flax, cotton, etc.) is an environmentally friendly material of natural origin. Unlike mineral wool, organic gluil insulation.

Mineral wool is popular, but not reliable in dampness

The most suitable material for the insulation of the garage, regardless of the material from which it is made is a heater based on foam or polystyrene foam, due to the convenience of installation, moisture resistance and acceptable price. Fibrous insulation is less preferable due to its structure, as in the unheated room, it is not always possible to maintain the optimal level of humidity. However, this does not mean that the use of cotton materials is categorically not recommended - their use is also appropriate, although not so preferably.

Important! If there is a furnace, heater or other heat sources in the garage, then the zone of their location must be insulated by mineral wool to prevent the fire and release of toxins due to excessive heating.

Calculation of material

The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the square of the warmed plot - the length of the wall is multiplied by its height. Thus, you will receive the number of square meters that need to be insulated. The thickness of the insulation is directly proportional to its heat-insulating data.

Since the layer of thermal insulation needs an external shell, in addition to the insulation, it is also necessary to purchase consumables for the assembly and the framework of the frame. For the formation of the frame, it is better to use metal profiles that are not afraid of moisture and are easy to be mounted. The calculation of the stance of the carrier profile is carried out taking into account the fact that the distance between the carrier elements of the frame should not exceed 50-60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of intermediate fasteners. The guide was equal to the perimeter of the room multiplied by 2.

For the construction of the frame, it is best to use moisture-resistant plasterboard, which includes a moisture-repellent impregnation and anti-grab additives - inexpensive, fire-resistant and light in the processing material. Calculation of the required number of sheets is carried out in the same way as in the case of insulating material.

Important! Focusing on the data obtained, it should be remembered about possible unforeseen situations and acquire a material with a small margin, which averages about 10-15% of the initial number.

Wall insulation in the garage from the inside

Montage Karcasa

Mounting frame, required for the subsequent installation of decorative sheat, which will hide insulation from prying eyes. In the process of installing, you will need the following tools:

Perforator drill;
Screwdriver;
Scissors for metal;
Level;

Ready carcass for drywall

All attachments in the wall pre-play a perforator drill, then the holes are inserted into the holes, which are twisted with a screwdriver. The metal profile is easily cut by metal scissors, almost in any position. The frame in the garage is assembled as follows:

First of all, the guides in which the carrier profile will be inserted into the ceiling and the floor. They should be placed parallel to each other - first mounted guide on the ceiling, and then, by means of a level or plumb, the guide guide is adjusted. The retreat from the wall should allow the insulation so that it is "pushing" the trim. There must be a sealing tape between the base and the guide, which will absorb small irregularities and create a more dense connection.

Important! When fastening the profile, it is necessary to take into account the surfaces of the surface - it should not "lead" from excessively bend. Deep drops, especially if a dowel is clogged in them, it is necessary to smooth out the supports, and the discovering parts are deleted.

Before installing supporting profiles on the wall, supporting staples-suspensions that give the rigidity of the entire structure are mounted. The bracket is a metal plate with perforated edges - the middle is mounted to the wall, and the edges are bent for the formation of the "P" of the shaped figure in which the carrier profile will be inserted. The suspensions are located on a strictly vertical line, which is measured by a plumb or level. A step between vertical lines can be 60, 40 or 30 cm - the more step, the weaker the design will be.

Important! If necessary, you can choose a step between the guides arbitrarily, within the above values, however, in this case you will have to constantly customize sheetwalk sheets, since their standard width is 140 cm.

By suspensions, carrier profiles are inserted into the guides. Fixation in guides and suspensions is carried out by means of screwdriver and small screws for metal. The overall plane is customized through the rule, or on a strained line between the extreme profiles.
Between carriers, with a similar step, the transverse frameworks are installed, which are made from the profile - they are necessary to strengthen the design. As a connection connection, you can use single-level "crab" connections or just crop the side of the profile, forming a tongue that is attached directly to the surface of the carrier profile.

Mounting profile to suspension

Waterproofing

The fibrous insulation is very sensitive to humidity - without waterproofing in this case can not do. To avoid wool fling, it is necessary to create a sealed, waterproof layer between the wall and insulation. For this purpose, a membrane film is used or any other flexible waterproof material. After the frame will be fully assembled, it is covered with waterproofing material. Do not pull the film, it must lie freely, the mount to the profile is carried out by means of a bracket. The main thing is to create a sealed barrier for condensate - the backbone between the edges of the bands should be at least 10 cm. The location of the connection is skiing with scotch.

Thinking about the need for waterproofing, we should not forget that its main function is to protect the insulation from a small amount of moisture, which can be leaked outside. It is insurance against unforeseen situations, not a panacea - if there is an increased humidity in the garage on the walls of the walls, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work on the outer waterproofing. Internal waterproofing in this case will be a temporary and short-lived solution solving.

Installing insulation

Wall insulation foam

Before you begin to insulation, the walls must be cleaned of highly speakers: reinforcement, metal fasteners, etc. If there are end-to-end slots in the wall, then they must be smeared with concrete or plastering (sand 1: 2 cement based on the mass of components) to remove drafts.

The process of mounting the insulation largely depends on the structure of the material - the foam and polystyrene foam with the block form factor can be mounted by means of glue, while mineral wool is fixed only with the help of dowel screws. The insulation of walls by foam or polystyrene foam is carried out in the following order:

The walls are cleaned of dust and are grounded by a special composition, to improve adhesion (degree of "adhesion"). After the primer is completely dry, you can proceed directly to the installation of the insulation.
The insulation is mounted from the bottom up, the sheets must be cut exactly under the opening between carrier profiles. The adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the insulation by means of a calibration spatula, after which the block is pressed against the wall. Since the material is very easy, there is no need to additionally press or fix the unit until the complete polymerization of glue.
After the glue is grabbing, the blocks can be additionally fixed using a dowel-screw-screw with wide plastic hats or bolts if the garage is assembled from sheet iron.

Installation of mineral wool or its species is carried out by means of a dowel-screw-sized plastic caps that fix the block in five places - in the corners and in the center. The insulation process is as follows:

Before mounting, at the bottom of the wall, it is necessary to install a profile or rack so that the wool does not touch the floor and did not absorb moisture.
The insulation is cut so that the width of the bands exceeds the width of the outlet between the carrier profiles by 1 to 2 cm.
The mats are clogged into the pasists between profiles, there should be no cracks or voids. The insulation is fixed with a dowel-self-assembly with plastic hats or bolts if the garage is made of leaf iron.

In this case, the design is meant in which the profile is tightly or very close to the wall. If the distance between the profile and the wall is quite large, then a whole heat insulating coating is formed, in which the excavations for fasteners of the frame are cut.

Covering the finished frame plasterboard

The fastening of plasterboard sheets is carried out by means of 25 mm in length. Sheets should be located in such a way that the edge should accurately for the middle of the carrier profile.. The distance between the self-draws should not exceed 20 cm, while the caps need to be dried into the surface of about 1 mm. First of all, the whole sheets are mounted, then inserts. The cutting of plasterboard is carried out with the help of a stationery knife - the sheet is deeply cut on one side, and then simply breaks into the opposite side of the side.

Video on the topic

Warming a gate with their own hands

Warming the gate of the foam

The iron gate of the garage is imparted not only your car, but also the cold outside - the metal instantly freezes and does not protect against frost. For the warming of the gate from the inside, it is necessary to assemble the frame for the trim. As a material it is more convenient to use a tree - a frame is collected from the bar, reinforced by intermediate inserts. The bar is attached to the goal through metal screws.

Assembling wooden frame

The insulation sheets are desirable to glue to the surface of the gate to avoid the appearance of condensate on the metal surface. Due to this circumstance, the use of foam or polystyrene foam is more preferable. After mounting the insulation, the frame is trimmed by plywood, tin, etc. In the event that the gate profile implies the presence of an inner cavity sufficient to mount the insulation, then you can do without installing the frame. Since the leaf insulation has a slight weight, if desired, you can simply glue the sheets to the gate without assembling the frame and the trim. In this case, it will have to be more neat when operating the gate, since unprotected heat insulation will be easily damaged by a careless effect.

Tile queue

Laying the insulation on the garage ceiling

The lavety ceiling is the biggest barrier in the insulation of the room. Unlike walls, the ceiling is advisable to insulate the attic - insulation will be more efficient and there is no need to form a decorative trim, which "eats" useful space and finance. The insulation is better to use foam or polystyrene foam, although mineral wool in this case will also be appropriate.

The outer insulation of the garage is not particularly difficult - the waterproofing and the insulation sheets are simpsed to the surface of the attic simply fit without cracks and emptiness. The thickness of the insulation should be at least 10 cm. In this case, it is important to create a dense heat insulating layer, without the so-called cold bridges - mounting foam is used to fill seams or hard-to-reach places.

Floor

Ceramzit for floor insulation in the garage

If the floor is formed from the monolithic concrete, it also strongly "sucks" heat out of the room. The only rational solution, in this case, is to fridge the heat-insulating material (clay) and the formation of a new concrete screed. Alternative methods of insulation in this case are inappropriate, as the coating should withstand the weight of the car. Ideally, the heat insulation of the floor should be carried out at the time of the building, as in any other case, it will have to either break the old coating, or to form thermal insulation over it, which implies the floor lifting by 15 to 20 cm.

If the garage is already built, you will have to proceed from already existing circumstances - the best option will be completely broken down by a concrete tie to free enough space for insulating backfill. However, if the height of the room allows you to lift the floor by 15 cm or more, then you can do without dismantling the old coating. Ceramzite, if possible, it is better to acquire inhomogeneous (small and medium) or the average fraction to reduce the likelihood of emptiness. To form a screed, you will need cement and sand. The order of work is as follows:

A platform under the backfill of the insulation is prepared. The insulation layer must have at least 10 cm in thickness, optimally - about 20-30 cm. Also, a layer of a concrete screed should also be taken into account, which is formed with a thickness of at least 5 cm. The site should be as smooth as possible so that the belling is uniform.
The ground or an old coating is covered with a layer of waterproofing so that the grainsite granules do not absorb moisture. For this purpose, you can use various materials: from rubberoid to a dense polyethylene film.
In the waterproofing, a smooth layer is covered with insulation. To evenly distribute the clamzit, the surface is aligned with rule or long level.
In order to strengthen the insulation granules, the fill with cement mortar - cement is stirred with water to a homogeneous substance that should not be too liquid or thick. The above mixture is poured the upper layer of clay so that cement is penetrating into the voids between the granules.
After the cement mixture is completely dry, a concrete screed is poured. The concrete solution consists of cement and sand, in a 60/40 ratio based on the mass of the components. In the manufacture of concrete mortar, it is easier to navigate the color of the mixture, which should have a clear cement hue. To align the flooded area, use a rule. The screed surface is loaded with a spatula or tow.

Important! In this case, Portland cement M400 is meant - the lower the brand, the more cement it is necessary and vice versa. But at the same time, it is not necessary to forget that the principle "the more, the better" in this case is inappropriate, since the excess of cement will break the structure of the screed.

Alignment of ceramisitis rule

Since the garage area is mainly not different, the formation of a screed is permissible to carry out "on the eye". But if you want to get a perfectly smooth surface, then you need to install beacons. As a lighthouse, you can use profile, pipes and any other material with a level edge. Lighthouses are installed by means of levels, thus create limit labels, which denote the level of the perfectly level plane.

Install the beacons simply simply - at the edges of the room, by means of a hydroevoy, the extreme profiles are installed, then the fishing line is stretched between them, which determines the level of intermediate elements. The main thing is to hardly fix the beacons so that when the pouring does not occur. Best for this purpose is a concrete solution with a small additive of alabaster. Lighthouses need to be recorded point, not along the entire length.

Important! Adding alabaster to a concrete solution significantly reduces the term of its pouring - the score can go for tens of seconds. You should not breed too much, otherwise you physically do not have time to work out.

Cellar

If the garage has a cellar, then its insulation is also a prerequisite for creating good room insulation. Installation of the insulation in this case is carried out in the same way as in the case of the main premises, with the difference that the ceiling of the cellar is insulated from the inside.

The procedure for insulation ceiling:

The floor in the cellar is insulated in accordance with the same recommendations as the insulation of sex in the garage room. After the end of work in the cellar heavily raises the level of humidity, so it is necessary to think through a high-quality ventilation system.

The insulation of the garage allows you to preserve the positive temperature without central heating. The only thing that should be remembered is not to make the room completely sealed to prevent the enhancement of humidity. In the garage, ventilation must be present to remove moisture from the monstering snow, rain and other things that will bring a car with you during bad weather.

Extend the life of the car will help the insulation of the garage from the inside with their own hands. The need to carry out similar works occurs through sharp temperature fluctuations, which lead to the appearance of condensate. The accumulated moisture settles on the machine, leads to a violation of the anti-corrosion coating. To prevent such situations, it is necessary to warm the garage or carry out the installation of the heating system.

Why insulate the walls

Fencing construction designs for the car are made from large-scale materials, such as slag block or gas-block, less often from brick. Depending on the method of laying products, the thickness of such walls will range from 12 to 30 centimeters. Such a width is not enough to protect the room from the penetration of cold air. Even with the device of the heating system, the difference between the air temperature outside and inside the building will result in condensate.

Artificially raise the temperature in the garage to high indicators is not necessary. After entering the car from a cold street into a warm room on its surface, condensate will certainly be available, which will lead to metal corrosion. The thermal insulation of the garage should be seamless and fit in such a way that the difference in temperatures in the room and outside the window was minimal. Optimal indicators for the car considered +5 degrees.

Note! During the insulation of the enclosing structures, motorists close up all the gaps, including ventilation holes. To score exhaust pipes is prohibited, they are used to remove the accumulated moisture, help remove carbon monoxide gases from the room.

Types of thermal insulation materials for the walls of the garage

There is a huge selection of insulation on the modern construction market. Consider the characteristics of the most popular thermal insulation materials:

Mineral wool is supplied to stores in the form of rigid mats with a density of up to 240 kg / m3. Such products are characterized by high resistance to ignition, they are well passed through their structure of water vapor (breathe). The only minus the use of basalt wool is considered the need for a vapor barrier film that will protect the product from wetting. Under the influence of moisture, the insulation loses its properties.
Glasswater is considered a cheapest analogue of Minvati. Such products consist of hard and spoiled fibers, so it is necessary to work with the insulation in glasses and mittens. After wettles, the mats are knocked out, become hard, so glass gamble must be protected from the penetration of humidity laying special films or foil.
Polyfoam is considered to be most convenient to use thermal insulating material. The products are not afraid of damp, it is easy to cut into pieces with ordinary hacksaw, have an affordable cost. The insulation of the garage can be carried out using an analogue of foam, expanded polystyrene, which will last up to 40 years. The main disadvantages of the products under consideration are obstacitious, low resistance to sunlight. Foam-unprotected plaster yellowes and crumbs.
Another garage insulation, warm plaster consists of vermiculite or foam balls. Such materials have good thermal insulating qualities, but to obtain the maximum effect on the walls, you need to apply a thick layer of solution.

Wall insulation from within

The choice of insulation, as well as the technology of insulation of enclosing structures will depend on the material from which enclosing structures are made. Many motorists are interested in the question of how to insulate a brick garage. To begin with, it is necessary to clean the surface from dust and contaminants, mount the frame in which the heat insulation will be laid.

Cinema make a profile for drywall. Guides are fixed on the wall of a dowel, which are driven every 30 centimeters. The distance between the guides must correspond to the width of the insulation slabs. For the finish finishing of the walls, it is possible to use plasterboard sheets or asbestosol. It is better to apply the latest products, because they have a high degree of fire resistance compared to similar material.

Tip! Asbestosolokally quite fragile, to prevent its destruction as a result of various mechanical impacts, reduce the step between the framework of the frame.

The insulation of the garage walls from the inside is carried out using mineral wool or other products made in the form of plates. In this case, the mats are inserted between the guides, their position is fixed using special hooks. After that, they begin to install a vapor insulating membrane, which should be filled with cotton thermal insulation.

Warm the garage and from the outside, using warm plaster or special paint for this. Conducting such work shifts the dew point, which will protect the walls from the penetration of moisture and further freezing. The host of the construction should be installed forced ventilation. Such a system is calculated on the intensive air exchange.

For insulation of metal walls, the insulation of the garage of the foam is suitable. Plates of polystyrene foams are fixed on the base surface with a glue mixture. For reliable fixation of thermal insulation, it is necessary to clean and degrease the metal. The sheets are fixed on the walls with the combination of seams, in the gaps pour the mounting foam. The polyfoam is subjected to burning, so it is necessary to apply a thin layer of plaster on its surface.

Walls of metal garages are often insulated with foamed polyurethane or special paint. If there are emptiness between the frame, insulation is carried out using foamizol. Liquid mass penetrates the wall through special holes. Foam is well cling to the surrounding surfaces, hardens, turning into high-quality and reliable thermal insulation.

How to insulate garage doors

Do not everyone know how to warm the garage from the inside correctly. Effective and reliable heat insulation of the walls will not be enough, because a significant amount of heat goes through the gate. No isolation in this design will not warm the garage to the necessary temperature indicators. At the initial stage of work in one of the shutters, the hole is done and the doors insert. To reduce heat loss in this place, the curtain of dense tissue is fixed.

Isolate the entire plane of the gate will help the transparent polyethylene film with a minimum thickness of 0.8 millimeters. This material is cut into strips of 20-30 centimeters wide and secured over the opening, so that the lower edge does not reach the floor surface by 1-2 centimeters. The strips are fixed on a wooden bar with a staple bracket. Such a heater is very effective - when entering the garage, the driver will see the surrounding space. In addition, narrow strips of polyethylene will smoothly contend the car, and return to the original position.

Some motorists carry out a garage gate insulation from within the foam. To do this, in the inner side of the design, a doomlet of wooden bars is mounted and fill the empties with plates of polystyrene foam. To prevent the penetration of cold air through the gaps, the location of the insulation of thermal insulation is sicked with scotch.

To eliminate drafts that penetrate through the gate, it is necessary to replace the rubber seals. In places of contact of thermal insulation with the surface of the metal, condensate is formed. To prevent destruction, steel is treated with paint or other anti-corrosion composition. Waterproofing substances are applied to other surfaces.

Wooden frames of frame elements are covered with primer or preheated olifa, which will protect the material from rotting and exposure to the fungus. After laying the foam, surface stripping is performed. The garage finish for the garage is performed by insulating plates or thin boards. Use moisture-proof products for this, such as GLC, is not desirable.

How to insulate the roof on the garage

If the construction for the car costs separately from the residential building or auxiliary buildings, except for the walls will have to warm and roof. This is due to the fact that warm air is much easier than cold, it will climb up and pull the snow, which will lead to a sharp change in temperature and the formation of condensate. We got acquainted how to warm the garage from the inside, but the process of insulation of the walls is slightly different from the insulation of the roof.

If there is a board ceiling as a heater, foam plates are used. Such products are fastened with the base with plastic dowels, umbrellas or ordinary nails. After that, thermal insulation is overlapped with sheet materials, for example plywood. Such products are fixed with long screws.

If the garage walls are covered with a concrete slab, you need to mount a wooden or metal frame of an aluminum profile. Guides are attached to the base surface by self-drawers, which are twisted into plastic dowels. After installing the frame laid foam plates. The location of the material is sealed with scotch, then the heat-insulating cake is pressed by trimming.

Important! Polyfoam is considered the best material for the thermal insulation of the roof. In the case of using mineral wool, it will take additional laying of polyethylene film and vapor barrier.

Floor insulation

If there is a cellar in the garage for storing conservation, vegetables and fruits in the floor insulation there is no need. In the absence of such an underground room, insulation is carried out at mandatory. The easiest way to insulate the floor using foam plates. The entire workflow comes down to the following:

vacuum cleaner, cleanse from contamination;
we laid on the base RUBEROD or polyethylene film;
fix the foam sheets of the maximum density (the thickness of the cake is not less than 10 centimeters);
we put the waterproofing material and the reinforcing grid;
we set lighthouses and pour an aligning screed.