Online building materials Calculator floor board. Laying the floorboard with their own hands. The main parameters of the board

To perform accurate calculation of boards to the floor, the calculator, created as online service, has existed for many years. With it, it is possible to calculate the amount of material that will be needed for the construction of the lag and floor covering.

The calculator is used to determine the amount of not only the floorboard, but also the material for the roughing floor. As with the construction of other designs, work on the creation of high-quality floors requires determining the exact amount of fasteners and insulation, end and other parts.

Features online Calculators

In the calculator you need to score several parameters of residential premises

The calculation of the floor using an online calculator is carried out based on the size of the dimensions specified in millimeters. To fulfill all operations, you will need to clarify:

floor length and width;
length and thickness of the lag;
width and thickness of boards;
parameters of the house (width).

For each value there are certain designations, among which there are numbers and letters reflecting:

the thickness and width of the draft black floor boards;
the number of jumpers between lags and step between them;
distance between the boards.

You can find out exactly how much boards on the floor can be used by one of the proposed floor calculator programs. We will need competent high-quality drawings, according to which the flooring builds and plans overlap.

Getting Started with the choice of material, it is necessary to take into account the features of their parameters. Boards, the thickness of which reaches 4 cm is recognized as demanded.

Despite the fact that many designers recommend using the products, the parameter of which is significantly higher, often enough of those boards, which is not thicker 2 cm.

They are more flexible and durable, and due to the high-quality and competent processing of boards, they are distinguished by increased resistance to moisture and temperature differences.

Correct calculations will allow to lay a solid tie

It is these qualities that allow properly prepared materials to preserve their original form, avoid cracking, swelling and other damage and deformations.

When you need a calculator

The program will help even determine the optimal distance between the lags

Other data can also be required, their instructions will help the calculator to determine the exact area of \u200b\u200bthe room, choose among the many existing proposals the most appropriate parameters of wood materials, the program is able to properly establish the optimal distance between the lags and the design components.

Using the program, the consumer receives specific data on the required amount of not only sawn timber, but also the insulation required for the arrangement and creating insulation under wooden flooring. For more information about building calculators, see this video:

Another feature of the program is the ability to specify some options for laying a future floor, allowing you to save and use the minimum amount of wood and insulation when conducting construction work.

To work with an online calculator, there is no need to turn to specialists and designers. It suffices to use the Internet services by specifying the requested data.

The beams in the house usually belong to the rafter system or overlapping, and to get a reliable design, the operation of which can be carried out without any concerns, it is necessary to use calculator beam.

What is the calculator beams

When the walls are already connected under the second floor or under the roof, it is necessary to do, in the second case, smoothly turning into the rafting legs. At the same time, the materials should be chosen so that the load on brick or log walls does not exceed the permissible, and the strength of the structure was at the proper level. Consequently, if you are going to use wood, you need to choose the right beams from it, make calculations to determine the desired thickness and sufficient length.

Sailing or partial destruction of the overlap can serve different reasons, for example, too much a step between lags, a deflection of the crossbar, too small area of \u200b\u200btheir cross section or defects in the structure. To exclude possible excesses, it is necessary to find out the estimated load on the overlap, whether it is a base or inter-storey, after which we use the beam calculator, given their own mass. The latter may vary in concrete jumpers, the weight of which depends on the density of reinforcement, for wood and metal with a certain geometry, the mass is constant. An exception can be deprived of wood that is not used in construction work without pre-drying.

On the beam systems in floors and rafter structures have a load of force acting on the cross section, torsion, on the deflection in length. For rafters, it is also necessary to provide snow and wind load, which also create certain efforts attached to the beams. Also, it is also necessary to accurately determine the necessary step between jumpers, since too much across the crossbar will lead to an extra mass of the overlap (or roof), and too small, as mentioned above, weakens the design.

You may also be interested in an article about the calculation of the amount of unedged and edged board in Cuba:

How to calculate the load on the ceiling beam

The distance between the walls is called the span, and there are two of them in the room, and one span will necessarily be less than the other if the shape of the room is not square. Jumpers of inter-storey or attic overlap should be laid by a shorter span, the optimal length of which is from 3 to 4 meters. With a larger distance, there may be necessary beams of non-standard sizes, which will lead to some zidiness. The optimal output in this case will be the use of metal crossing.

As for the section of a wooden bar, there is a specific standard that requires that the side beams relate to as 7: 5, that is, the height is divided into 7 parts, and 5 of them must draw up the profile width. In this case, the deformation of the section is excluded, but to deviate from the above indicators, then the width exceeding the height is a deflection, or, with the opposite inconsistency - bend to the side. So that this does not work out due to the excessive length of the bar, you need to know how to calculate the load on the beam. In particular, the allowable deflection is calculated from the ratio to the jumper length, as 1: 200, that is, there must be 2 centimeters of 4 meters.

In order for the timber to be lagged under the severity of lags and flooring, as well as interior items, it is possible to pull it out of several centimeters, giving the form of the arch, in this case its height should have the appropriate reserve.

Now let's turn to the formulas. The same deflection referred to as previously calculated: F norm \u003d L / 200, where L. - The length of the span, and the 200 is a permissible distance in centimeters for each unit of seeding of the bar. For reinforced concrete beam, distributed load q. On which 400 kg / m 2 is usually equal, the calculation of the limiting bending moment is performed according to the Max \u003d (Q · L 2) / 8 formula. In this case, the number of reinforcement and its weight is determined by the following table:

Cross sections and a mass of reinforcement rods

Diameter, mm.	Cross-sectional area, cm 2, with the number of rods	Weight 1 pm, kg	Diameter, mm.
Diameter, mm.		Weight 1 pm, kg	Diameter, mm.
Wire and rod fittings

























Class K-7 seven-level ropes

The load on any beam from a fairly homogeneous material is calculated for a number of formulas. To begin with, the moment of resistance w ≥ m / r is calculated. Here M. - this is the maximum bending moment of the accompanying load, and R. - Estimated resistance, which is taken from reference books depending on the material used. Since most often the beams have a rectangular shape, the moment of resistance can be calculated otherwise: W z \u003d b · h 2/6, where b. is a width of beams, and h. - Height.

What else should be known about the load on the beam

The overlap is, as a rule, is at the same time and the floor of the next floor and the ceiling of the previous one. So, you need to make it such that there is no risk to combine the upper and lower rooms by banal overlap with furniture. Especially such probability occurs at a very big step between the beams and the failure of lags (the militant floors are laid directly on the bar laid in the spans). In this case, the distance between the crossies directly depends on the thickness of the boards, for example, if it is 28 millimeters, then the board length should not be more than 50 centimeters. If you have lags, the minimum gap between the beams can reach 1 meter.

Also be sure to take into account the mass used for the floor. For example, if mats are stacked from mineral wool, the square meter of the basement will weigh from 90 to 120 kilograms, depending on the thickness of thermal insulation. The opilk concrete will increase the mass of the same area twice. The use of the same clay will make the overlap even harder because the load is 3 times more on the square meter than when laying mineral wool. Next, we should not forget about the useful load, which for inter-storey floors is 150 kilograms per square meter at least. In the attic, it is enough to take a permissible load of 75 kilograms per square.

So that the floor covering served for a long time and was durable, the floorboards did not creak and did not go under their feet, it is necessary to pre-correctly calculate all the design parameters, including at what distance laying the floor lags. Not only the durability of the floor covering will depend on the correctness of this calculation, but also the amount of material that has come to it, and therefore the cost of work.

What does the choice of lag depends?
What should be considered when calculating?
Example of calculating the distance between floor lags
Step lag depending on the floor covering
What can error in calculations?

What does the choice of lag depends?

The size of the selected lag will depend on the place of installation. So, in apartment buildings with ready-made wooden or concrete floors as a lag can safely serve a thin bar on which the flooring will be resting. At the same time, in the frame building, the lags are usually simultaneously elements of the frame of the house, they take a significant load, that is, have bearing functions, so they must have a much larger cross-section.

What should be considered when calculating?

When performing the calculation, the following factors take into account:

the thickness of the material of the floor covering (chipboard, boards, etc.);
approximate step between floor lags;
the estimated specific maximum load on the floor.

All these parameters will determine the cross-section of boards, timber and other lumber used for floor arrangement.

When it is calculated how much the distance should be between the lags of the floor, it should be remembered that the extreme lags cannot be located further than 30 millimeters from the walls, it is necessary to make an amendment in the calculations.

As a result, the calculations are usually not a whole number, but it should always be rounded in a majority so that the actual number of lags does not work less than the estimated. Otherwise, the strength of the floor design may be insufficient, especially if we consider that such savings will be completely insignificant compared to the likely risk.

The cheapest of the entire lags for the floor can be found on the sawmills, then there are construction online shopping.

When it comes to installing the floor, it is not recommended to save it over. Lags must have not only a suitable cross section, but also sufficient density. If you take a step lag for the floor from the boards too big, then the boards will begin to fuse, "play". Similarly, if the distance between the lags for the floor from the OSB do more than permissible, the plates will begin to crumble and crack.

Example of calculating the distance between floor lags

The distance between the lags of the floor under the board may be relatively large, since the thick board is more durable material than, for example, thin plywood. Accordingly, for more subtle finish materials, more frequent location of the lag will be required.

For clarity, consider an example of a floor arrangement with such data:

room 12 meters long;
use of a bar 100x180 mm for lag;
the use of 30 mm boards as an finishing coating.

Table of distances between lags floor under the board:

According to the table above, for a 30-millimeter board, the optimal distance between the lags of the floor should be 50 cm.

Denote the total number of beams of the letter "k".
Then the total width of all lag will be ( 100 mm * k).
An indentation between the wall and extreme bars will be 30 mm.
Accordingly, the step between adjacent lags will be ( k - 1.).
The distance between all the elements will be ( 0.5 * (k - 1)).

The calculation of the distance between the lags of the floor begins with determining the step between the beams by such an equation:

room Length \u003d Total BROUSEW Width + Distance Amount Between Brussia + Indents

12 m \u003d 100 mm * k + 0.5 * (k - 1) m + 30 mm * 2

It is important to bring the equation to a single calculus system. As a result, we get:

12 m \u003d 0.1 m * k + 0.5 * (k - 1) + 0.03 * 2

Remembering the school course of algebra, solve the equation:

12 \u003d 0.1 * k + 0.5 * k - 0.5 + 0.06;
12 + 0.5 - 0.06 \u003d 0.1 * k + 0.5 * k;
12.44 \u003d 0.6 * k;
K \u003d 20.7 pcs.

Since the number of beams can only be integer, it is rounded up to the biggest, that is, it is required 21 Barlok..

The sum of all the gaps between lags will be:

12 - 21 * 0.1 - 0.06 \u003d 9.84 m

You need to divide the amount to the amount of gaps, and get the distance between adjacent lags:

9.84 / (21 - 1) \u003d 0.492 m

Thus, we managed to establish, after a distance, put lags for the floor in this example - 0.492 m or 49.2 cm.

Step lag depending on the floor covering

There is a linear dependence between the thickness of the coating of the coating and the lag pitch: the thicker the thickness, the greater the step can be.

This is what the distance between the lags of the floor should be done if the flooring is carried out by boards of different thickness:

with the thickness of the boards of flooring at 20 mm, the lag should not exceed 30 centimeters;
for boards with a thickness of 25 mm, a step is required 40 cm;
for "thirty" - 50 cm;
for 35 mm - 60 cm;
for "forty" - 70 cm;
for 45 mm - 80 cm;
for "fifty" - 1 m.

The distance between the lags of the floor under Paneur or OSP is somewhat different. On the one hand, these materials have a smaller thickness, but on the other, they have a great resistance of bending.

If the flooring will have a thickness of 15-18 mm, then step lag for the floor from plywood will be 40 cm.
With a thicker flooring (22-24 mm), a step can reach 60 cm.

What can error in calculations?

What can threaten the wrong choice of cross section of the lag and the calculation of the distance between them? If the floors are put on a concrete base, then in this case the value of the step between lags, directly affecting the behavior of the floor covering. If there are too rarely mounted lags to mount the chipboard plate, it can be saved and even break. If ceramic tile is put on top, then it will crack or fall out. The boards will just "walk" and felt. Any of these options will require alteration.

Much more serious will be mistaken, after what distance they put lags for the floor, which simultaneously serve as elements of inter-storey overlaps. If in this case, establish an insufficient number of such carrier elements, the strength of the building itself will decrease, which is fraught with the most serious consequences - from irreversible deformations to the complete destruction of overlaps.

Do you have the experience of installing the lag? Do you make calculations or use only tables? Write about it in the comments.

Correctly select the sex board is no less important than the floor design. After all, the final result depends entirely from the board, which was used on the lags.

In the general case, the floor board can be any lumber fixed on lags. Most often under this title understand the tipped board. This lumber, which has three treated "in the final" parties - two butt and one plane - the front side. On the side of the sides, the sheets are molded by a special machine: on one side of the groove, on the other - spike. When laying, the spike is driven into the groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the produced when drying the gap. Moreover, even a little ridiculous tank-out floor looks good.

The board with a tongue can have a comb of different shapes. It is most convenient in laying if it has a conical shape. The cone is easy to enter even if there is a small curvature of the boards. With a spike of rectangular shape, it is harder to fight much more difficult. If there are deviations, the board is not ideal, then it is necessary to suffer with it for a long time, or cut into pieces of no more than 2-3 meters long, and then dock segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.

Also, board boards are with a molded protrusion "in a quarter". This is when it takes half the width of the board on one side from the bottom, on the other - on top. This species is still easier than the traditional spike-groove board looks at the same time the floor is not worse.

There is one more type of geepboard - with beveled under 45 ° edges. It is also not very common, although not worse in operation and on aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary cutting board is placed on the floor - it has a view of a rectangle in cross section. It is put on close - jack - and so fastened with nails or self-draws. If we talk in relation to the baths, then when the course of the flowing floors is the edged board and will be the optimal option. In other cases, it is necessary to give preference to variants with any type of locks: when drying is not so noticeable slit.

In addition to the tipped board from the massif, there is also glued. It consists of several boards glued together. Wood fibers at the same time have so that under all conditions its geometry remains almost unchanged. If it changes, then several times less than massive. But due to the complexity of manufacturing such a material, the price of it is high. But the floor of the glued board is almost guaranteed to be smooth.

Types of flooring locks

There is one more type of sawn timber that is placed on the floor. This is a terrace board. It is characterized by the fact that its facial part is not even, but a wavy. And even if the board is wet, it's not slipping on it. It is rarely used in the premises, it is rare mainly due to the fact that the uneplex surface to the perfect state is very difficult. But when building a bath, it can be useful if you have a pool or font on the porch. Opened around the pool terraced board, you can not be afraid that someone slip.

Terraced board looks on the floor very attractive

Any type of sawn timber is in the Euro category. There is sex eurodoska, tipped or not, there is a terrace. The whole difference is available on the back of a longitudinally located groove, which promotes better ventilation. There should be a difference as wood: without bitch. But the best quality is far from always, and higher prices - always in stock. If you decide to take the option with a groove - be sure to pickily check the quality of the material, geometry.

Floor Wood Breed

You can lay on the floor any wood. The question is only in your preferences and material opportunities. An appointment of the premises can play another role.

For baths traditionally put the boards of coniferous rocks. She is the most inexpensive, and Her quality indicators are good. It is contained in coniferous rocks a large number of resins (pine and fir), in some there are tanning substances (larch), which extends their life under conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and ate is soft breeds and, if there are a lot of people, they are quickly erased. But if the bath is family, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.

If we speak specifically on the premises, it is better in the "wet" conditions of yourself larch: it only becomes stronger from the water. Pine and fir is better to put in a locker room or a rest room. The constant presence of water will not be taken out, especially since not many want to handle wood for parillas with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely be rotten.

Putting on the floor wood and hardwood, but it is more susceptible to rotting, and more often darkens from water. There are still some nuances that are defined only on experience. For example, oak wood - durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in the wet premises: it is very slippery. It is impossible to walk on it, so you have to close this beauty with anti-slip rugs.

So looks like a pinned euro board in profile

When a double milking device for roughing and finishing boards should be taken from the same wood. For the draft floor, it will be necessary (be sure to remove the boring and treat from bugs), for the final - edged, whipped. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to different values \u200b\u200bof expansion and compression, the floor may not be a negotiated floor when changing temperature and humidity.

Floor board sizes

The minimum thickness of the laying boards on the floor is determined by the step of laying the lag. The larger the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness you need a lumber.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard from the installation steps of the lag

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some reserve: taking into account the fact that it will be possible to update the appearance periodically - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "in principle", through one or two grinding of the flooring will begin to fake under their feet and creak - the pleasure is not the biggest. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to be installed new, thicker boards, or reduce the step of lag (increase their number), which also happened.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out: the wider the board, the less junctions and faster laying. Therefore, for conventional dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that the cube is a wide board costs more than the same volume by narrower: waste larger.

When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, also has its own nuances. Wide boards are better not to take: with increasing humidity, they change their geometry more stronger. Sometimes so much that walking becomes problematic. Therefore, in a steam room or shower, use a narrow or medium width board.

How many boards in one cubic meter

Deciding with the size of the floorboards, it is necessary to calculate how much you need to buy: Lumber is sold on cubic meters.

There are no stringent standards in this industry, as there is no clear distinction for varieties. Some manufacturers allocate only two varieties, others can have five or six. Focus on site.

The only thing is that it should not have no high-grade products of the bitch at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to cover the boards with varnish. If you plan to paint, then overpay for the lack of bitch no sense: they are still not visible in the paint. The only thing to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black bitches crumble and fall out, and we have nothing to do.

There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But three and two-meter boards are made on many sawmills. Moreover, the three-meter cubic meter will cost less than six-meter. So if you don't need a long board, look for a suitable size: it will be cheaper.

Now about how to calculate the number of Cuba boards. To do this, calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will raise the board 40 * 150 mm. Transfer millimeters to meters:

40 mm \u003d 0.04 m, 150 m \u003d 0.15 m

We will take a standard length of 6 m. It turns out 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m \u003d 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one Cuba (we divide the unit by 0.036) it turns out 27.7 pieces, but 27 pcs will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the number of any boards or timber. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most running size and the amount of them in the cubic meter are calculated and listed in the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about purchasing volumes. Calling how much you need boards, take with a reserve at least 10-15% (and better than 30%). Firstly, the marriage is always found, and in the second, most likely after a year or two, it will have to go through - the cracks will appear, some boards will turn off the "propeller". And then you will need to change or add boards. If nothing is left, then bought from another party, it is unlikely that they will become normal. For sure there will be problems: or in thickness will not go, or problems will be problems with a spike-groove. In general, how many pieces must lie a couple of years in stock.

How to choose

First you need to decide on humidity. The most optimal option for baths is the average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a natural humidity board, it will lead it when dried, there will be a lot of "skis" and "propellers". They can then be used except for the construction of fences. If you take a risen - chamber drying - in the conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will fight and climb. So the optimal option is the average humidity.

First of all, when buying you need to check geometry. When choosing a edged board, pay attention to the fact that the faces are smooth. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, this parameter must be checked when buying any varietal lumber (except for the Unedte Board). Take the caliper and measure in several places along the boards from the same side. There should be no difference.

When buying rounded boards, it is necessary to pay attention to the geometry and the size of the ridge and the groove. In order for everything to be connected without problems, the grooves make a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything goes easy. On the wrong machine, it often happens on the contrary. Then, no matter how old, make the floor without cracks will not work. We will have to or change the boards (if it turns out) or take part of the spike.

There is another error that is allowed in the production of tipped boards: the upper edge over the thorn (ridge) is more professional than the bottom. With this defect, the gap is generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this disadvantage. Only special equipment is required.

You still need to control how much when drying the boards rushed. They are folded in the stack, shifting bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying them, they will be problematic.

All these shortcomings are quite simple. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and now you know), the flaws are visible immediately. Pretend the sizes of the spike and groove, and also see, even if the edges above the spike are located. If everything is fine, take two boards and joke them like when laying. If the geometry is not broken, they are combined easily and without cracks. If the tests have passed successfully, the floor board can be taken: it will be easy and easy to lay it.

How and how to fix

A few years ago no discrepancies arose: the floorboard was nailed to lagham with nails through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and drunk then deep into the Dobochnik - this is not to be visible. Today, too, you can do. And save at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after some time a large number of gaps appear in the milking floor. In order to get rid of the floor from them, we are tightened, the wall add one or two boards - as it turns out. Here the screws have an advantage: they are easier and without damage to wood are dismantled. And you try to get a nail with a flattened hat and do not break the wood. In no way. Therefore, we are increasingly "sled" precisely on the self-tapping screw, although the option is ambiguous: the nails are stronger, and the hats often fly away from the screws, especially crumpled.

In spike or in groove?

For the hidden attachment, the self-tapping screws are fixed not through the boards, but in spike or groove. You can wear, in the ramp, but then the caps will need to be dried in the board, and the holes are smeared with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although it is very rare in the baths. If you take a putty on the tree of the appropriate color, but to misite some of the wood dust from your boards into it, then almost nothing will be visible under a light varnish.

If the screws are tightened into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in the spike, then the angle is less - you can almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option keeps the board is more reliable (captures ¾ thickness), although the method "in the groove" is more common.

In any case, it is pre-needed to drill a hole under the Hat with a larger diameter drill and under the stem of the self-sufficiency smaller. This operation, although takes time, but serves as a guarantee that the board does not burst.

Technology of hidden fastening

The technology of hidden flooring is such: the first board is nailed to tightly through. The second and subsequent are assigned, beaten by wedges, and better - they are attracted by clamps so that there is no gap anywhere. Then in the groove or spike at an angle, fasteners are screwed or clogged. If the wood is dense, the self-tapping screws are hard. To make the process lighter, threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier).

With this method of fastening it is not night nails nor self-tapping screws. But, if one disadvantage: only one edge of the board is attracted to the lag. When changing moisture, shrinkage or laboration of the foundation another can rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it creaks more often. Although it is never too late to drive several nails or twist a few self-tapping screws.

What taking self-tapping screws

Which screws use for flooring in a bath? Preferably with carvings, which starts not from the Hat itself. So it will be more reliable. And they are better to take some - they are stronger. For the bath is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the self-drawing depends on the thickness of the board: it must be 2.5 times more. It seems to the parameters of the self-samples - all. With nails, everything is easier: we need ordinary, but not screw or corrugated - to pull them, without damaging the wood almost unreal.

Self-tapping screws better take a thread that starts not from the Hat itself

There is one secret that got from the ancestors. It will allow the use of ordinary nails in the bath, and they will not rust: they need to boil in the olife. After being dried, you can use. Such nails were nailed to drank on the roof, and they did not rust with decades.

So: with the fastening method and the choice of fasteners you need to decide on your own. There are different opinions, and they are all based on experience - their or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add your own. But remember that in a year or two I will have to go through. So the first time it is worth molding at a minimum of nails or self-tapping screws - how to decide. Then he was already safe, it will be possible to fix the capital.

How to install a germ board and how clamps are used to eliminate the gaps, see the video.

A device for tightening the floorboards can be made with their own hands on the attached video instruction.