Proper laying of the floor in a wooden house. Floors in a wooden house do it yourself. Concrete floor in a wooden house

Wooden floors allow you to maintain heat in the house when using minimal technical and material resources. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most advanced high-tech fasteners and coatings.

The floors made from high-quality wood, with appropriate care, retain their operational characteristics with centuries, relatively inexpensive, universal (they can be arranged on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for the device of the semi-type floors. In addition, wooden floors are quite simple in installation and can be mounted in a private house or apartment, forces of just one person.

General principles of wooden floors

Directly sex boards are always laid on lagsBut the lags themselves can fit both on a concrete or even earth ground, and on the backups - usually it is brick, wooden or metal pillars. Rarely, but technology is still applied, in which the ends of the lag are fitted into opposite walls or fit into specially provided ledges near the walls and are operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, wide spans overlapping is very difficult - the lags are required very large sections and weight, and alone correctly install them almost unrealistic ...

Device of wooden floors for concrete base Practically no different from the device of floors in an apartment with overlaps from reinforced concrete slabs. It is much more difficult to deal with installation of the floor on the first floor of a private houseSince in this case it is extremely desirable to arrange a ventilated and dry underground. Its presence is largely determined by the strength and durability of the finished gender, especially in cases of high groundwater location.

Couple words about the instrument

From the selected floor installation method depends on which tool will be needed to work. But in any case, do not do without:

• laser level; As a last resort - you can use the hydroelectric system, but an assistant will need to work with it;
• conventional or cross-building bubble level at least 1 meter long; The crosac level is preferable, as it allows you to unwind the plane simultaneously in two directions;
• hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
• chain or circular saw, or good hacksaw.
• fugank and (or) grinders.

It will not be superfluous and the usual carpentry tool - a square, a small ax, a planer, a chisel, a nail-holder.

Flooring device on support pillars

Traditionally, the wooden floor is assembled from the following "layers" (bottom up):

• the basis of the whole flooring - lags;
• chernova ("Lower") floor;
• waterproofing layer;
• layer of thermal insulation;
• directly wooden floor (finishing flooring);
• finish flooring.

This all multi-layered "sandwich" is usually held on the support pillars - concrete, brick, wooden or metal.

Installation of brick columns

The optimal choice today is a brick pillars with acceptable strength characteristics, which are quite accessible from a financial point of view and do not require special labor in the construction. Single restriction - The height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; If it is greater - to preserve the strength of the supports will have to increase their cross section, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of bricks and, accordingly, an increase in the material costs for construction. With the height of the pillars up to 50-60 cm, there is a sufficient section 1x1 brick, with a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the cross section is made at least 1.5x1.5 bricks, the columns with a height up to 1.5 m are laid out at least 2x2 bricks.

Anyway under brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete "pyataks"The area of \u200b\u200bwhich exceeds the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the center centers is selected in the range of 0.7-1 m along the lags and 0.8-1.2 m between the lags section 100 ... 150x150 mm. After the markup in the fields of the columns, the pits of a depth of approximately halfter are broken; The main thing - the bottom should be lower than the fertile layer of the Earth. At the bottom of these mini-kotlovanov, a sand-gravel "pillow" is made, on which the concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the received "Pyatak" turned out to be several centimeters above the ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontal of the future floor is laidAnd it is at this stage that the laser level is best. With its help on the walls, the level of the lower edge of the lag plus 1 cm is placed, the construction cord is stretched between the opposite walls on this level, and the pillar height is adjusted at its level. It is absolutely optional to bring it strictly to a millimeter - it is quite a couple of centimeters. When calculating the total floor thickness, it should be borne in mind that at least its upper plane should be higher than the level of the building base - otherwise avoid the "cold bridges" will be extremely difficult.

Some features of support pillars

It is necessary to provide in them Presence of fasteners for beams-lag. Typically, 10-20 cm vertical "studs" with threads or anchor bolts are used as such fasteners - in the future, through holes that the beams "wear" are drilled in the corresponding places in the corresponding places, and they are attracted with nuts with washers. The protruding surplus "Threads" are cut by the "grinder".

Side surfaces of columns and, especially their upper planeon which lag will be laid, preferably coat of durable plaster - It will additionally strengthen the design and play the role of additional waterproofing. On the surface of finished columns is laid 2-3 layers of small rubberoid slices.

After complete drying and hardening of the masonry solution (it takes about approximately a week) on ready-made support poles you can already lay lags.

Laying Lag on brick columns

The length of the lag is selected depending on the floor design. When laying on the support pillars of options for such structures, only two are "floating" and tough.

"Floating" or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire "sandwich" of the floor lies and holds exclusively on the columns, without being tightly tied to the walls or. In the second - the ends of the lag in one way or another are rigidly attached to the walls; Such a design practically eliminates the "walking" flooring floor, but when the building drawdors may well lead to the deformation of finished floors.

With a "floating" version of the floor, the lag length is made by 3-5 cm. Less than the distance from the wall to the wall. In the second case, the clearance should turn out no more than 2 cm - otherwise the lags will be difficult to hustly attach to the walls. If necessary, lagows can be made of two or more pieces, connecting them into "half paws" - but the joke must come to the support pillar And to be nailed nails or (in the section of lag to 10x100 mm) is fastened with self-draws.

If the final length of the lag is less than three meters, then they can be stacked directly to the supports (not forgetting about the waterproofing gaskets from the frontierdoor); However, it is significantly better between the rubberoid and the lower plane of the beam-lags to put the plafth of the cutting board with a thickness of 25-50 mm. In the case of the shock lag do it is necessary!

Lag alignment

After laying the lag on the prepared reference pillars, they need to "set" in terms of level. This is done as follows: With the help of wooden strips of a small thickness Two extreme beams stitches strictly horizontally, according to a predetermined and marked level of height. Gaskets are still used only on extreme support pillars, to intermediate while you can not pay attention. The ends of the exhibited lag are nailed to the walls; In the case of "floating" floors, this mount will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, on the top planes lag tight construction cord is stretched. There are all other intermediate beams on it;then, if necessary, gaskets are installed between the rest of the columns and lags. All gaskets must be tightly tied (nailed) to lags, and if possible - and to the support columns. Beams must lie on the pillars tightly, as a last resort, no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on the adjacent pillars.

Chernovaya Pol

After laying the lag, the draft floor is made. To do this, along the entire length of the lower slice of the lags on each side, a narrow bar is nailed ("cranicious" timber). There are raw boards with a length equal to the distance between lags between the lags. After laying, these boards "solid" are covered with a steam insulating film, which is superimposed or the insulation is imposed. From above, everything skated is covered with windproof cloth.

Underground ventilation

When flooring on brick columns in underground space be sure to be the ventilation- Forced (with a large underground cube) or natural. Mandatory element of such ventilation - the so-called "Through": Through holes in or walls below the floor level. Such holes should be throughout the perimeter of the building and under the inner partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the bloodstream are usually selected 10x10 cm, the center of the hole must be at an altitude of 0.3-0.4 m from the soil level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It must be provided with the possibility of overlapping producing in winter. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the holes of the bloodstream are closed with a grid with shallow meacies.

When if underground is not too deep (not more than 0.5 m) and the device of the production is difficult holes for ventilation make in the floor - usually in the corners. These holes are closed with decorative lattices and should always be open.

How to select floors

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with windproof cloth. The selection of the board depends on what exactly the surface of the finished floor is. If it is intended natural - a tipped floorboard will be required (with a lock); If the linoleum or laminate or laminate is to be laid - it is quite possible to do the usual cutting board. But in any case, wood must be well dried!

Fresh a pinned board to lagas

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, spike to the wall. The following boards are pressed against the previous one with the help of any stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker 25 mm, nails are nails - selflessness in this case are not suitable, they do not attract the board to the upper surface of the lag. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm should be maintained throughout the perimeter of the room. The available joints of the ends of the genital boards are necessarily placed in a checker order.

Final floor finish

After flooring flooring, the floor is ready for finishing processed in his grinding (cycle) and paint or varnish. Manually do it almost unreal - you should use an electric fuganom or grinding machine. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all "relent" cracks and cracks between boards handle to a putty woodBased on Olifa. The last operation before painting is the mounting of the plinth along the perimeter of the room.

The polished surface is painted or covered with varnish, for example - yacht; Modern paint materials allow you to simulate almost any breed of wood or the surface of the material. Usually at least two layers of coverage are applied, a paint roller and a good respirator use to work. If you wish, it is not a glossy, and the matte surface of the floor can be used with wax or oil.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. It is possible to achieve the desired result alone or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of the flooring device in a wooden house is important in both cases. First, because it will be necessary to independently perform work, secondly - to control the employees.

Features of the process

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the outdoor "cake".

The main element of the construction design for the floor is the blockage. For capital buildings, it is usually carried out from a powerful timber with a cross-sectional parameters of at least 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced with several boards, securely connected. The binding from the boards is more stable. Boards are not subjected to the stresses that the timber is experiencing.

Products used for the strapping are subject to pre-processing with an antiseptic agent. As such often use waste oils. Wood-treated wooden parts do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they serve for many years. In the absence of oil, special funds are used in each construction store.

To extend the lifetime of the strapping on the foundation you need to lay waterproofing. Usually it is folded in two layers of rubberoid.

The strapping requires lags. These are wide powerful boards, strengthen which you need to rib. They are as well as the strapping, need to be processed by an antiseptic. Lags must be pre-examined, close cracks if available. Boards with great disadvantages it is better to replace with better.

In the light buildings it is allowed to make lags teams. Special brackets or studs are used for fastening the components. Docking sites should be restarted for greater reliability.

If the load is planned substantial, it is better to strengthen the design in advance. For this, the cross section is lag, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

Lagges are laid by boards for which the membrane is laid, preventing penetration of wind and moisture inside. In the resulting cells are stacked by the insulation. Depending on the selected method, this can be both clayzit and foam foam, foamed polyethylene or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with vapor barrier. Further actions depend on the preferences of the home of the house. Any available options, including water heated floors, can act as a fingerboard.

Construction structure

Wooden house to build a little, you need to properly sum up engineering communications, such as:

• heating;
• water supply;
• sewage;
• electric wiring.

The abundance of engineering structures in the premises does not look aesthetically, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or basement floor under the draft floor, an electric water heater can be installed, and you can equip the gas boiler room. Especially relevant location under the floor of the water heater for a small shower.

When building a house it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be secured from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the design to breathe and at the same time reliably protected from damage to moisture. Excellent insulation is obtained from Isyospan.

Izospan is used both when equipped with the first floor and second. It stacked under the mineral insulation and above it. Non-woven material is produced by non-stroke rolls. Separate parts when laying should be placed in the brass and glue with a special bilateral scotch. In places of contact with lags, the isospan is attached to them by a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a solid flooring. Perhaps the OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB plates are widely used in housing construction. They are perfectly suitable for the arrangement of floors in wooden houses. Floors using oriented chipboard are good for the base under the boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But the finish coating of the OSB is not worth doing.

For laying on lags, installed in 50 cm increments, a sufficient thickness of the plates is considered 18 mm. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm more, a large thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB plates are made by pressing with the use of a special adhesive composition. They are durable, do not rot and do not lose weight. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walking.

Laying is performed quickly, as:

• special skills do not require;
• sheets have a proper geometric shape, and the time for fitting is not spent;
• one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of \u200b\u200b3.1 m2.

Types of floors

In private wooden houses, the floor view depends on the outlet way. Two options are possible: concrete (reinforced concrete plate) or wooden. On the second floor, the overlaps are usually made by wooden, since heavier railway plates only enhance the load on the foundation.

Inside the house you can equip any of the modern floors: laminate, parquet, cork, tile and others.

Concretethe floors are formed filling a screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is fully ready for further processing a month later. Raw wood requires drying, it goes far more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the costs of finishing floors. A qualitatively performed screed can serve as the basis for finishing finishing without additional suction and surface leveling.

If necessary, lift the floor to a certain height under the tie picked up lightweight clay. So the load is reduced on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

In a new house, the probability of cracking cement screed in connection with the shrinkage of the structure is large. There will be no serious destruction at the same time, however, heat losses are possible. You can prevent negative consequences by setting a reliable insulation.

Concrete overlap is possible after the calculations. As a rule, a similar solution is taken if there is a ribbon foundation in the capital structure.

The wooden house is more suitable for the same wooden overlap. Wood eco-friendly, does not cause allergic reactions at residents: adults and children. Natural material increasingly use country house owners, preferring its brick and various blocks.

The boardwalk is easy to sew on boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip "pie" from insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer design can be performed in the form of a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of the foundation, land, screw piles or simply on brick columns, the building is erected, the arrangement of the floor begins with the preparatory work.

First, you prepare the walls, equipping the ventilation holes in them. The lack of air access underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components.

The materials necessary for the arrangement of overlapping materials must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and the stock of wood is 10-15 percent.

Installation can be started when bars and boards will be sufficient. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with the means against rot and fungus.

Black two-layer floors are doing where it is necessary to fit the base directly to open soil.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the soil. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can catch the ground, laying a pillow from sand, gravel or clay, and then pour it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for the garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In an easy summer cottage, used for seasonal stay, you need to take the floor otherwise. First you need to set brick columns throughout the perimeter. It is very important to provide the surfaces of the supports of a single height (output to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket from the rubberoid or roofing. On the waterproofing layer it is necessary to put a wooden lining with a thickness of 3 cm with an antiseptic.

All this design closes with bars, for which lagows are exhibited with constant adjustment horizontally. The design is finally fixed by fasteners. On the lags there is a floor if the manufacture is performed by a single flooring.

The double floor suggests the presence of styling between the draft and the finishing floor of the insulation, hydro and vapor barrier, and if necessary, other components.

Methods of laying

The rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable species, and the stay in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring will be harmonized with the walls. Uniform material will make the interior of the room holistic.

The choice of wood for the floor depends on:

• material opportunities;
• purpose of the room;
• planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees growing in tropical forests possess unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, easily processed, resistant to abrasion. In addition, the boards of such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, Merbau wood can be golden orange or red-brown. Paul purple color can be done if you use a rosewood. And the striped flooring is obtained when they buy very expensive wood zebrano.

They will not require large expenses of boards of coniferous trees, including pines and ate. From such floors, the room is filled with substances and pleasant aroma for humans. The tree always remains warm, so it is nice to walk with bare feet by the floor.

For shower, baths and saunas are required aspen and lime boards. They do not emit resin, they have resistant to water and high temperature.

On the veranda, open for precipitation, the floor is best made from corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the genital boards must be selected taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. At a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans more specified size, you need to prefer boards with a thickness of 50 mm. As for the width, it is established by the designer project or the preferences of the owners.

If you decide to hold the device of floors with your own hands, remember that wide boards are uncomfortable. In addition, the more the cloth, the more his shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process may affect the quality of the wooden flooring. For this reason, it is better to take non-screens and not too long boards.

One of the way to install the floor is the laying of the rotor, with the method of joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in the neighboring series.

If a plywood is used as a base, parquet boards are glued with mastic or glue and additionally fastened with self-draws, as in the case of a massive board. It is necessary to glue throughout the area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional direct form of laying, use diagonal. Especially exquisitely in the spacious room looks like an angle of 45 ° to the wall.

Floor arrangement requires a thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that independent installation is possible without attracting specialists and additional costs. Indeed, manifesting perseverance, observing step-by-step guide, you can do without assistance and significantly saved money.

If you want to rebuild the floor, the worn finish coating is removed, the state of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Lags having flaws are subject to replacement, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During the overhaul of the floors, they change the wet or blind insulation, as well as isolation.

If the lags are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put the lining for them, for example, of plywood lubricated parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, parchment can be used as protective against moisture.

When the fitting under the finish coating is performed by sheet building material (Feds, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-draws. The fasteners should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet in a step of about 150 mm. Hats of selflessness should be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The recesses formed at the same time should be sharpened. Without putty, the finish at the point of attachment will be negative. And after some time there will be traces of poorly performed works.

Wooden floor is a classic solution in construction and repair. No modern composite materials will replace home heat and ecological purity of the tree. Despite the fact that the tree loses concrete or composites for strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will still be popular with builders. The flooring device in a wooden house has been worked out by many generations, so it should not cause special problems even with not very experienced masters.

It is possible to arrange the floor in a wooden structure by various technologies. Consider the procedure for execution of works used by materials, tools and equipment.

Floor diagram in a tree house on pillars supports

Construction of the floor of such a design is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or beams for the construction of the floor in the walls of your home. In this case, the floor will be constructed on a free "floating" scheme and will not be associated with the external walls of the structure. Also, such a design of the floor is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a large level of soil water.

Sex flooring in the house of such a design can be divided into two types.

• Single sex flooring from wooden boards. This type of floor is the simplest during construction and further use and repair. It is recommended to use such a design in small houses on dachas built for seasonal use.
• Double floor. This type of floor is built in buildings designed for year-round residence. When using this technology, two flooring is built: black and finishing, in the interval between them there is insulation from the loss of heat and the penetration of moisture.

Floor construction technology in houses from wooden materials on supports

Step 1.Make a recess of the soil in the space of your sample. Kotlovan must be dug as half a half of the low level of the planned gender. In the dug pita, place the cushion from crushed stone, gravel or purified from the organic river sand. It is recommended that the top edge of the pillow rummaged over the ground level on the site near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.

Step 2.Floor supports for the floor can be shaped from red burned bricks. So, if you plan to fit the floor to support a height of 25 centimeters, then its optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. With a support altitude, more than 25 centimeters pillar places in two bricks.

There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, monolithic concrete pillars can be placed in the underground. At the same time, the concrete solution is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which the metal frame of reinforcement is mounted.

The concrete solution can also be poured into vertically installed and deepened in the gravel pillow segment of asbestos-cement pipes, inside which also places the frame of the reinforcement.

In any case, when choosing the technology of erection of support pillars, you must pay attention to their uniform upper level. The best control device is a laser level or level. The distance between the pillars horizontally and vertical is about a meter.

Step 3.On each pillar support layer of waterproofing. The easiest way to do was use two combined layers of sheet insulation, such as rubberoid.

Step 4.The waterproof layer is placed with a wooden plate with a thickness of 30 mm.

Step 5.. The pillars laid bars lags are stacked. They are usually built from a wooden thick timber cut from coniferous woods and antiseptic treated. The location of the lag must have to support poles. During construction, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the lag. You can adjust the position of the lag using the oncoming wedges. Depending on the width used in the construction of the floor of wooden boards, the distance between adjacent lags can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.

Step 6.. The laid lags are laid out the boardwalk. To create aesthetical view, wooden boards Polyuchka to lay parallel directions falling out of the windows of light. The first board is stacked with a clearance from the wall to 15 mm. Then this space will be closed by a plinth, but the slit will ensure the movement of the air into the underground space.

Step 7.Made from the wood massif on the bars - lags are attached with nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should exceed the thickness of the board twice. Nails are clogged under the slope so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the plane of the pairing board and the support lag. The optimal angle of inclination is 30-45 degrees to the vertical. Hats nails with a sharp side of the hammer completely interfere in the board. Then, after the process of the spatlement and painting, the Hats of nails will disappear from the view.

You feed the boards with nails under an acute angle

Step 8.Ryachk-Plintus is nailed. Near the two placed walls located opposite each other, a temporary plinth is mounted, which is fixed in a pair of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation up to the final drying of the array of boards, and then close the constant plinth.

Please note that in which the case with the floor on concrete or brick pillars will not be heated in winter, the supports can "lead" and the geometry of the wooden floor design will be offended. Additional heat insulation by the underground space can give a slag layer, but in the interval of its upper edge and wooden floor, there must be space of at least 5 centimeters to ensure ventilation.

How to build a single boardwalk in a tree house

If during the construction of walls in the house of wood, you have provided a laying of the supports, then the most affordable method of building the floor will be a single milking festival. Typically, the gap between the support beams is at least a meter.

1. On top of the support bars are mounted lags for floor laying. For their construction, wooden bars with a side of 50-60 millimeters are used. The distance between the lags depends on the width used for flooring the floor of the tipped board:
   - if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between lags should be no more than half a meter;
   - If you use a tipped board with a thickness of 400 mm and more, the optimal distance between the lags will be 50-60 centimeters.
2. When laying the lag cladder, be sure to check the horizontal of the top level of BRUSEV. It is advisable for this to use a laser or ordinary construction level, adjusting the height of the location of the lags with the oncoming wedges bought under it.
3. Lagged carrier beams are fixed through long nails or carpentry brackets.

1. A platform floor of a single design is laid directly on the bars-lags. For the flooring of the first floor in one layer, a circular board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the castle of the previous one, is adjusted by tapping in the castle, and then nailed to the lag with a long nail, set in the body of the board under a slight bias. Hats nails are taken into the body of the board. If you plan to place on the floor in one layer, the finish flooring is possible to use the unedged boards.

1. The finishing flooring from the tumblers is grouped, and then covered with varnish or paint. On the black layer of the floor, the finishing decorative coating, such as linoleum, is laid.

This is a very fast and affordable way of the structure of the floor in a wooden structure. However, the thermal insulation of such a design leaves much to be desired and in the house designed for year-round accommodation, it is better to build a double floor design.

We build floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Unlike a single, double floor consists of two layers: piston and rough.

Step 1

Lags are mounted on the support bearing beams to which cranial additional bars are nailed.

Step 2.

On the cranial additional bars in the transverse direction, the boards of the draft layer of flooring are nailed. You can use the unedged boards of coniferous rocks of various thicknesses (15-45 mm). Before laying the board are processed by an antiseptic. The stacked boards are tightly adjusted to each other so that the minimum slots remain.

Step 3.

On the black floor flooring, a layer of vapor barrier from durable polyethylene is stacked. His bands are laid out the mustache.

Step 5.

Lags are laid on the draft floor. Their height is selected depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).

Step 6.

Between lags, there is a thermal layer. The choice of insulation material depends exclusively on your budget and preferences:

• rolled mineral wool roll;
• plates of foamed polymer (for example, polystyrene foam);
• a layer of a flowing material, such as a clay and clay mixture with wood sawdust;
• warm floor pipeline system.

Step 7.

On top of the heat insulating layer, another layer of waterproofing is stacked. If you build a warm water floor in the thickness of the wooden, the upper layer of waterproofing is not used. When building a floor with passive heat insulation between the upper edge of the heat insulating layer, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left.

Step 8.

On the top of the entire "sandwich" tight boards are settled. The technology of their installation is already described above.

Step 9.

In the corners of the room during installation, there are ventilation holes with a cross section of about 5 centimeters, which are closed with decorative lattices. The surface of the lattice is raised above the floor for a couple of centimeters. Such elevation protects the grille from moisture.

The underground is also ventilated through the windows in the walls of the base. In winter, all types of ventilation windows overlap.

Features of the floor construction on the first floor of wooden buildings

When the floor is found on the lower first or ground floor of a wooden house over unheated basements there are certain features.

Cold floor, located directly on Earth (without underground)

The cold floor, located directly on Earth (without underground), is built in the presence of a dry soil under the house and at a high location of overlapping the first floor of the building. The underground of such a floor consists of 4 layers:

• rammed sand pillow;
• dry, clean, calcined sand;
• lag (brushing of coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), beaten in a combined ground base and relying on the excavation on the external walls of the room;
• single militant flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with impaired underground space

The procedure for building a warmed floor with a non-heated underground space

1. Accommodation in the underground pillows from the ramble sand peeled from the organic sand (thickness 10-15 cm).
2. Setting the support columns with a height of at least half a meter. A very simple and economical way to install the support will be the pouring of a concrete solution in the segments of vertically standing pipes with a metal frame inside.
3. Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
4. Placing wooden dies with a thickness of 30 mm.
5. Laying beam-lag beams.
6. In order to carry out thermal insulation of the floor using this technology, rails (about 15 mm in cross section) are nailed to the side ends of the lag, which is stacked with a rough layer of flooring from sliced \u200b\u200bunedged boards.
7. A vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation is laid on the rough layer of heating layer (the level of flooring is slightly lower than the first floor). Flood floor or coating from wood plates is laid over the beam.

Cold floor with warmed underground space

Cold floor with heated underground space is used in construction on soils with low levels of soil water. The technology of its installation coincides with the previous one to the stage of the shaft floor. After installing the lag on top of them, the purple floor is mounted without creating the thermal insulating layer.

Look at the video tutorial to get acquainted with the construction stages in more detail.

Video - floor device in a wooden house

It is possible to produce flooring a wooden floor with your own hands, if you first examine the instructions for this work. The boardwalk has always been more popular floors made from other materials, as it differs from them with its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and ability to create a specific, particularly healthy microclimate in residential premises.

Most often for flooring in the house, coniferous woods are selected. Mainly in the course there is a larch, which shows special durability and to temperature drops, and to high humidity. Thanks to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, it does not arise from devastating fungal formations, and therefore the processes of rotting and destruction are excluded.

Requirements for semi

Wood flooring must comply with certain requirements, without the execution of which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for tenants. We can safely be attributed to such criteria:

• Effective sound insulation and thermal insulation of rooms.
• Reliability and strength of wooden coating.
• Wear resistance, and to be - and the durability of the floor.
• Moisture resistance and hygienicism - floor cleaning should not cause special difficulties.
• The aesthetics of the wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
• Easy installation work.

To achieve all the mentioned wooden floor qualities, you need to properly approach the choice of material for its device.

Criteria for selecting material

In order for the floors to serve a long period without drying the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following parameters of the material:

• Crowded. For the finishing coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and 2 ÷ 3 grades are usually bought for roughing. If the finishing floor will be covered with paint, then a second-speed material is quite suitable for it.

From the types of wood will be directly dependent and its quality. Even purchasing the highest grade material, it is necessary to pay attention to the disabilities of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and swirls - they should either be completely absent, or to be minimal.

• It is very important to draw attention to the dryness of wood. It should have a certain humidity, otherwise the cracks will appear between the boats, and the floorboard themselves will be deformed. The humidity for the booby coating boards cannot exceed 12%, and for rough - no higher than 17%.
• The length of bars and boards ideally must match the length and width of the room, where the floor will be laid.
• The standard thickness of the genital board is 120 × 25 mm and 100 × 25 mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the lag to which the boards will be secured. According to the existing technology, these distances must be selected in accordance with the data shown in the table:

Step between lags in mm	Fireplate thickness in mm
300	20
400	24
500	30
600	35
700	40
800	45
900	50
1000	55

By purchasing any building material, after the necessary calculations were carried out, it is necessary to add 15% of the reserve to this amount - this rule is verified by experienced builders, so it is recommended to follow it.

Wood preparation

Before the installation process of the lag and flooring flooring, they must be prepared. Typically, the material for the floor is already sold in a rowed form, but if the sowers are detected during inspection, they need to be removed using an electrolyca.

They are started to install only after the complete drying of the material.

Selection of floor design

Knowing all the requirements that are presented to the coating material, you need to decide on the structure of the floor, since for each particular case your option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will be held.

There are several basic types of wooden floor designs:

• Floors on lags laid on the beams of overlapping. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the first floor.
• "Floating" design - Boardlaid on the concrete basis but not attached to it .
• The coating fixed on the lags laid on the ground.

These methods of wood flooring have become the most popular, as they give the freedom of creativity to the master who can enjoy their adjustments in the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that is suitable for it to a greater extent.

Flooring system on the beams of overlapping

• Lags, as the basis for the floor, can be fixed on the beams of overlappings, which, in turn, are stacked on a columnar or ribbon foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is satisfied, has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.

• To create an air layer, the ceiling beams often raise the ground for a certain height, laying them on the upper waterproof The surface of the foundation. They can be rigidly fixed to it or simply reliably laid on top. The second option chooses in the event that the foundation has not yet managed to give a shrinkage, and when it will occur, it will not pull the floor system, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.

• With a large width of the room (more than 3 meters), there can be additionally installed between the walls that will create the rigidity of the overlap system. For all supporting structures under the beams of the basis of the floor, waterproofing is necessarily settled, so that wooden parts will serve as much as possible.

What should be the thickness of the lag and the beams of overlapping? This mainly depends on the width of the free span (the distance between the adjacent points of the support). Typically proceed from the following indicators (see Table):

• After the ceiling beams are installed, they need to fasten the lags. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected flooring boards.

• Having arrange such a "floating" floor design, lags, and then the boards should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent from them. In the opening between the walls and the floor system, the material is laid, which will not allow the cold air to penetrate the room, will allow the wood to "breathe", and with temperature and humidity drops - freely expand.
• When laying out lags consisting of two separate sections, their combination of β-500 ÷ 500 mm should be located on the support columns or on the beam. Lags should be aligned by the construction level, if necessary, for the achievement of the perfect horizontal under the lags are put down small pieces of wood.
• After the laugs are exhibited and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a draft floor for which low-quality boards are quite suitable. For their installation, the entire length of the lag below the cranial bars with a size of 30 × 50 mm are screwed down.

• Black floor boards are not always fixed to cranial bars, usually they are simply stolen to each other. From top view of the draft floor, the vapor barrier film is fastened, fixing it with brackets to lags and boards.

• Between the lags on vapor barrier is tightly stacked - it can be a mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as a dry bevel from the crumple or slag.

• From above of the insulation, another layer of vapor barrier film is laid. Separate sheets glued together with scotch, and then the film is attached to the lags of the brackets.

• The upper layer of vaporizolation is necessary in order for dust and particles of the insulation material to fall into residential premises. On the sun of this floor system, the flooring or fat plywood will then be laid.

Prices for various types of timber

Lags fixed on concrete coating

Often to create a floor layer in apartments on a concrete base is also a wooden floor on lags. Here, all the difficulty consists in aligning the lag on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise a wooden coating for several centimeters above the concrete slab.

If the apartment is above the first floor, then most often laid out, align in level, and then fixed on a concrete base using anchor mounts.

Both in the first and second variant, the lags are drilled through. To lift the lag over the base, different metal and plastic elements are used. In this case, the photo shows studs. They allow you to raise and lower the lags from one or the other side, aligning them in terms of level. The excess segment of the hairpin, after removing the lag at the desired height, is cut by grinding.

In each of the options for concrete between lags, the insulation may be laid, which will add coatings of thermal insulation, and also helps to drown out the noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where lags under the wooden floor are installed. Mineral wool, foam or one can be used as insulating material.

Flooring on concrete coating

Sometimes the wooden floor is laid on the concrete floor without applying the lag. As a coating uses genital boards or phanel. It is desirable for such a floor to alleged a thin insulation material - most often it uses foamed polyethylene for this, and it is better to choose the one that has a foil coating.

Separate sheets of the substrate material fasten with a scotch, so that a solid coating was created - it will make the floor warmer and muffle noise. If plywood is used for flooring, it must be remembered that it is necessary to reduce the decorative coating on top of it. Floors from fairly thick boards will look respectable if they are covered with varnish, wax or high-quality paint.

Installation of geepboard

Selecting the boards of the desired thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience shows, the best option to put out the boards is considered to direct the natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, planning the laying of the board must begin with marking and fixing the lag.

Sex boards have different types of connection:

1. Connection using the insert insert in the grooves of two boards.

2. Connection "Paz-Schip" in the presence of rigged boards.

3. Connection "in a quarter".

The last kind of connection is the easiest in the installation, so the most often uses floorboards with such a fastening. In addition, the "Quarter" compound creates a single coating with almost imperceptible slots between the boards, so it will optimally retain heat in the room.

Boards can be fixed in two ways to fastening:

• Nails or self-tapping screws can be drunk in the groove, located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the drowning of the Hats inward wood. Some masters prefer to come around, driving self-tapping screws at an angle to the edge of Ship.

• In the second embodiment, nails or screws are driven or screwed into the facial plane of the board.

• Starting installing floorboards, you must definitely retreat from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, the insulation strip is stacked at this gap, and is closed by the installed plinth. It is necessary for the possibility of wood expand when changing humidity and air temperature.

• The board is attached to lags with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats robbed "under satay", Later they close them with a putty chopped wood.
• If it is not sufficiently sustained wood, the onset floor requires a grain period that lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. This time coverage will give shrinkage and dermole, there will be a slot between the boats, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of its smoker. In this regard, at the initial laying flooring, all the floorboards are completely naked to lags, and only the fifth - the seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be shifted, close to each other as much as possible to each other and nail to lags.

• If the boards are selected with the spike-groove compound, it is used for a more dense compound, with which the spikes in the groove drive through the bar. Often, special clamps use special clamps for this, especially in cases where, due to the light curvature of the boards, the installation comes with the blasting of the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
• For a dense connection of the last board, installed at the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven between the wall and the board.
• The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some roughness remained on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, adjust the spike to the groove.

Find out how to consider the reasons for the screens and methods of eliminating, from our new article.

Video: flooring with clamps

Prices for floor coverings

Floor coverings

Floor surface treatment after final flooring

After the floor went over and secured, it may have to bother his surface. This process of the PR is diverted in the event that when the board is somewhat dried, the surface has become uneven.

Starting varnish helps to identify not enough smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore after its drying it is easier to find roughness and carry out their additional stamps.

After grinding, plinths are installed, which well hide the slots between the wall and floorboards. If, according to the results of this operation, the slots remain between the floor and the plinth, they are sealed with putty under the color of the wood.

Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can move to the finishing surface coating with wax, butter, varnish or paint.

The boardwallet flooring is covered with the finish line not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also for its protection, which means that the maximum long-term exploitation.

Oil treatment

If the boards have a beautiful pronounced factory, then special oil is often used for its coating. It makes the floors warmer, not so slippery, as when coating, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates the structure of the tree and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, almost repulcing it.

Wood covered with oil is less susceptible to various damage, and already existing flaws become actually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of wood, while maintaining its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the residential room.

The floors that are covered with oil should be protected from dust from entering them until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care to special means. It is very important to remember that the furniture with metal legs is not recommended for such a surface, since there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.

Oil floating flooring is recommended in rooms with high humidity - this is a bathroom, a terrace and a kitchen. Such a coating for the hallway or the corridor is well suited, since the boards impregnated with such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.

There are compounds for floating floors, consisting of not clean oil, and with additives in it, liquid wax, which gives the fields matte, soft shine. They are applied to the surface of wood and clean oils, they are well absorbed into the surface, economically in applying and do not require long hasslement.

Floor oil can be colorless, and may have different shades that make woods darker or give it a special one - a pleasant and warm color.

The oil is applied in two or three receptions. It can rub or superimpose with a brush, and its surplus is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film that will create uneven coating.

Oil composition can be applied to a hot and cold way in several layers. The faster wood absorbs oil, the more layers will need to apply. The preheated composition is much faster and deeper into the pores of the tree, and it serves such a coating much longer than with a cold method of applying.

Walking of the floor surface

The wax is most often combined with oil coating. So, sometimes the fascination occurs composition, which consists of natural beeswax and flaxseed oil. Such a coating well protects the surfaces of the floors from scratches and pollution, as well as from the absorption of moisture, but will not retain a tree from cracking and intensive mechanical effects. The wax covering the surface of a pleasant matte shine and a golden shade.

The wax is applied to the purified floor with a wide roller in several layers. The first one should be quite thin to absorb well into the surface. Next, the floor is grouped, and then it is covered with another layer of composition and grind again.

Wax in combination with butter is an environmentally friendly coating material, and it is very good to use it in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood, which has passed such processing, has the "breathe" properties, so the floors will serve a long period, and will create a favorable microclimate in the room.

Wooden floor varnishing

• The lacquer coating can be applied with a brush, roller or spatula at room temperature, moderate humidity and lack of drafts.
• On the purified surface, the first layer is superimposed nitrolac, which will serve as a kind of primer under the finish layers of the composition. It is applied by a thin layer in the course of the texture pattern of wood. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
• After drying the primer, the surface is well polished with sandpaper. After that, the floor was washed with soapy water, thoroughly wipe and dried.
• After that, they begin to apply the finish layers. There may be two or three of them, and each of them succumbes and grinds.

The application of varnish on the floors is a rather complicated event that requires a sparkling of the composition for a particular tree of wood. Therefore, if it is this method that this method of processing the wooden floor is selected, it is better to entrust work by a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select the necessary materials.

The varnish coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged from mechanical effects, so it is undesirable to walk on thin heels or move the furniture. In addition, varnishes are produced most often on the chemical bases, which, scoring pores of wood, do not give it to "breathe."

Coloring wooden floor

Recently, paint is rarely used to cover the wooden floor, but still it happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is selected. In addition, the paint is applied in cases where it is necessary to close the not quite attractive appearance d of the rivets, since such a coating completely closes the floor surface. For such finishing, you can choose paints on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersive and latex.

Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, since they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always the opportunity to choose one that is more suitable for a particular interior.

Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for residential rooms, but after their application requires long-term ventilation, since these evaporations may pose a threat to human health.

Before painting, the compositions on a water-based board are covered with a special primer. For the rest of the coat materials, the preparation of the base is required by the help of impregnating compositions, as the main component in which the Olife is usually served.

Paint can be applied in one, two layers or, in extreme cases, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the "Golden Middle", as it will quickly begin to stick together, and thumb, on the contrary, to peel into the rocket. Each of the layers of primer or paint should dry well before the next one will be superimposed.

It is very detailed in the relevant publication of our portal.

So, if there are basic concepts of working with wood, and also stored the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to try to put the floors from boards or plywood yourself. If there are questions, you can always seek explanation and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - another interesting video on wood laying technology.

Video: How to get ready and flooring

Additional insulation of the floor in a wooden house will reduce heat loss and thereby reduce heating costs. Despite the fact that wooden floors have low thermal conductivity, heat leakage can occur due to a high temperature difference in the basement and on the first floor. In this article, we will tell what material is better to use for the thermal insulation of the first and second floors in a private house with a wooden base.

Features of thermal insulation

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house? The process of installation of thermal insulation is relatively simple. However, the quality of work is largely determined by the technical features of the coatings used for isolation. Before purchasing material for a roughing of a draft base, you need to consider several important nuances:

• alleged load on the coating;
• humidity level;
• temperature loads;
• height of thermal insulation coatings.

The insulation technology itself is simple and consists of several stages:

1. installation of lag;
2. fixation from below on the lags of wooden sheets;
3. installation of lagham insulation;
4. the base of the base with vaporizolation material;
5. finish finish of a rough base.

When planning work it is very important to take into account the microclimate in the room. For insulation of the first and second floor, use how correctly, various thermal insulators. Moreover, technologically, the process of insulation also has some differences about which we will tell a little later.

Optimal thermal insulators

What material is best used to finish the draft coating with your own hands? For the insulation of wooden floors, both natural and synthetic thermal insulators are used. The most popular one can be attributed to:

• Wood sawdust;
• Ceramzit;
• Minvatu;
• Isolon;
• Styrofoam;
• Penophol.

Each material has its technological features and thermal insulation parameters. To understand their shortcomings and advantages, consider all of the above thermal insulators in more detail.

Thermal insulation sawdusts

Watching sawdust is one of the most budget versions of thermal insulation of wooden floors. Environmentally friendly material is quite lightweight, therefore it can be used for isolation of intermediate floors. The thickness of the heat insulator layer is easily varied, due to its flowability. Thus, it is possible to adjust the level of heat loss in the room.

When finishing the base sawdust, the following types of wood-chip coatings can be used:

• Plocks made of pressed sawdust. Material made from copper sulfate, wood sawdust and dry cement. As a rule, it is placed between lags when insulating the first floor. Light blocks of a small thickness - up to 15 mm, can be used to cover the walls;
• Pellets with sawdust. Granulated bulk material is made of wood sawdust treated with antiseptic, and glue. It is difficult for combat widths that can be insulated by inter-storey floors, since they do not create a large static load due to low weight;
• Arbolit. In this case, the main material is mixed with synthetic and organic additives, after which they are formulated in the form of blocks. The non-combustible thermal insulator has high bending strength, while it is hygroscopic. Therefore, in the process of its laying, it is necessary to use waterproofing layers;
• Opilk concrete. Externally, blocks with sawdust resemble a slag block. They are made of a mixture of wood-chip pellets, cement and sand. Suitable only for the thermal insulation of the first floor of the house.

Floor insulation on lags sawdust in any case involves the use of a waterproofing layer. The hygroscopic material is a good medium for the development of mold and pathogenic flora, so during the operation of the coating you need to exclude the possibility of moisture.

Ceramzit thermal insulation

Keramzit is a granular insulation with good indicators of sound and thermal insulation. Why is it worth insulating the base with clay? The heat insulator has considerable advantages to which include:

• environmental friendliness;
• frost resistance;
• strength;
• low thermal conductivity;
• non-hatching.

When finishing the coating with a clay, with your own hands, you need to take into account the low level of hydrophobicity. The material quickly absorbs moisture, although it is not deformed at the same time. However, insulation with clay is fraught with the formation of mold under the floor. Therefore, in the process of its laying it is necessary to think about additional waterproofing.

How to make thermal insulation with clay?

1. Before claying on the base to lay a layer of waterproofing. It can be a plastic film or rubberoid;
2. The thickness of the layer should vary in the range from 10 to 50 mm, not more;
3. As can be seen in the photo, a vapor polyplator is put on the insulation;
4. A coatings with a foil layer can be used as a vaporizolator. The optimal option will be the foam.

If you want with your own hands to heat the milking floor with a clay, under which the basement is located, it is desirable to pour the sand layer below. Thanks to him, under the floor, condensate will not be gathering, which will significantly reduce the risk of mold or fungus.

Heat insulation Minvata

Is it possible to insulate a wooden base for lags of mineral wool? Environmentally friendly thermal insulator is made of fibers obtained from glass containers and slags. The advantages of finishing a rough base of Minvata include:

• ease of installation;
• low cost;
• minor weight;
• environmental friendliness;
• resistance to the appearance of mold;
• good thermal insulation.

However, in the case of the processing of the floor according to the lags, Minvata must be taken into account and several negative points, namely:

• When the coating, insulated with mineral wool, loses its heat-insulating qualities;
• Use material for the casing of the second floor is not recommended due to low vapor permeability;
• It is not desirable to insulate the mining room with high static load due to low strength.

What is the work scheme?

1. Preparation of the foundation. From the bottom you need to mount the milk overlap treated with an antiseptic;
2. Waterproofing. It is necessary to make additional waterproofing using a polyethylene film, pre-put order in the house;
3. Mineral wool covering. In the process of laying, it is necessary to ensure that the layers of the material fit into lags very tightly to each other;
4. Installation of vapor barrier. High-quality vaporizolation is better made by foam;
5. The final stage. At this stage, the finishing coating is carried out.

Minvati thickness is determined by the microclimate indoor. If the basement is located below the room, you can lay the material in two layers.

Eco-insulation

Why is it better to make thermal insulation of eco-art? 100% Natural coating has good technical parameters and relatively low cost. It is made of cellulose and mineral additives, therefore, even when heated, the coating with an eco-paper does not emit caustic chemicals. The product impregnated with boric acid is almost invulnerable for fungus and mold.

What advantages has this kind of insulation?

• Good warm and noise insulation;
• Fire safety;
• Ecology;
• Low thermal conductivity.

As can be seen in the photo, the finish of the rough base of lags is an eco-water can be carried out in two ways:

1. Manual. In this case, the decoration of EcoWhat implies the installation of the insulation on the lags to the shields attached to the bottom. To prevent heat loss, joints are treated with mounting foam;
2. Mechanical. For decoration of the base, the emotion uses blowing machines: through a special hose, the crumbly insulation is evenly distributed over the coating. In this case, the thickness of the layer should be at least 3-4 mm.

Read more The process of thermal insulation of floors of eco-eyed display in the video clip.

Thanks to glue, which is part of the thermal insulator, it can be used for insulation not only an outdoor base, but also walls. It is also worth noting that the eco-job is convenient to insulate not only the first floor of the house, but also intercharishes. The vapor-permeable coating does not contribute to the condensate accumulation and the development of mold.

Insulation isolon

How to properly carry out thermal insulation on laghams isolon? The heat insulator made of foamed polyethylene has a low thermal conductivity. Thanks to this quality, it began to be used for insulation of floor coatings. What are the advantages of Isolon?

• A small thickness (2-10 mm);
• Low thermal conductivity;
• High hydrophobicity;
• Environmental Safety.

As can be seen from the photo, the material is produced in rolls, which greatly facilitates the installation process with their own hands. Warming wood overlapping with insolon, you need to consider such moments:

• The coating has good sound insulation, so when it is laying it is not necessary to use additional noise insulating layers;
• To reduce heat loss in the room, when laying the insole, with its own hands, the material does not dock, but put the brass;
• The seams between adjacent sheets are treated with polymer glue or bitumen mastic.

Thermal insulation work can be viewed in the photo below.

Insulation foamball

Is it possible to insulate the wooden floors with foam? Penofol - insulating coating of a new generation, produced in the form of a roll. To be more accurate, the foam is shielded, which prevents radiation energy dissipation. Lightweight and easy-to-use insulation has a reflective layer, which prevents the large heat loss. That is why it has begun everywhere to be used to finish inter-storey floors.

What advantages is Penophol?

• withstands heavy loads;
• nongigroscopic;
• has low thermal conductivity;
• easily fit;
• does not involve the use of vaporizolation.

For your information. The technology of insulation of bases by foam is not much different from insulation with insonle. As in the previous version, the sheets put the brass to prevent heat loss.

Features of lagham insulation

How to warm the draft bottom of the lags? In the process of laying the thermal insulator, the following scheme must be observed:

1. A draft base is lined with boards that must be attached to lags;
2. To prevent moisture from entering the coating, lay a layer of vaporizolator;
3. Then the base is insulated with polystyrene foam, minvata or other materials.

If it is necessary to make high-quality thermal insulation of the room above the non-residential and unheated room, then the insulation is better to use minvatu with a thickness of more than 40 mm. In this case, Piece, obtained from the vapor polypoletor and minvati, will save heat in the room, preventing heat exchange between the cold basement and the first floor.

Features of the thermal insulation of the first floor

Since the tree has a property to be deformed, over time, slots can be formed, through which heat is gradually starting to fire. How to make high-quality first floor isolation in an old house?

1. First of all, you need to remove the old floor covering;
2. Then make the audit of the lag for deformation or rotting;
3. If necessary, rotten bars replace;
4. Then do it yourself handle the tree by antiseptic;
5. Bottoms to lags nail shells for laying wooden boards;
6. On the boards, the insulation is poured;
7. Next lace a layer of vapor polypoletor;
8. Finish the installation of the finishing coating.

In detail the insulation technology is shown in the video.