Concrete screed pouring guide on wooden floor. Concrete screed on wooden floor Filling floor on wooden beams

Pretty rarely board floors are aligned with. Experts believe that it is not very rational to burden the wooden coverage of a heavy concrete slab. In addition, the base of the tree and the cement layer is not so good neighboring, both in the process of fill and froze and during operation. Many professionals prefer to fill other alignment schemes - dry. Nevertheless, there is a lot of wishing to do in a wooden house underground, or put in the kitchen and in the hallway - in such, and similar, cases, and reverses the arrangement of concrete on the woody basis. Methods for this exist, and they possess some characteristic features.

What does it give us? The wooden component of the structure can move, as it is pleased with it, lying fixed screed will not go cracks and will not begin to crumble from changing the configurations of the draft base.

Features of the device of concrete floor in the house: the use of film

Concrete screed diagram on wooden floor

There is a reasonable question: why precisely film from polyethylene? It is not so favorable for the neighborhood with a pretty capricious tree, contributes. Moreover, in wooden buildings it is successfully replaced by pergamin, bituminous mastic or rolled materials with impregnation. It turns out that concrete will not stick to the film from polyethylene at all.

Thanks to this feature:

on both sides of the border (films) can freely move and screed, and the basis;
wood and cement do not interact with each other, wood will not suck with a frozen concrete moisture, causing the formation of a cavern and shells;
a flooded layer of cement alignment will not pull polyethylene, it will not stretch and tear it;
after the frozen, the concrete will not begin to gradually absorb moisture from the tree, contributing to the formation of cracks in the wood.

Important precautionary precautions for those who decided to take up concrete floors in the house personally. You must process all the wooden parts of the design, even before the start of work, and the water-repellent primer "Akvastop". So you can minimize the negative impact of polyethylene on wood, and reliably protect the base.

Floating screed: Concrete floor device in the house

We looked at the principle of technology, we will now dwell on the course of work and their sequence:

it is necessary to remove the flooring of the boards and spend a thorough audit;
all unsuitable lags, unreliable and non-confidence, should be seized and replaced;
if the carrying capacity of all lag is insufficient for the planned load, they must be strengthened with an additional bar. The step between the individual components should be no more than 0.3-0.4 meters;
sex boards are returned to the place, damaged can be turned over;
close sealant available between separate boats.

On the walls, we mark the zero level, at a convenient height. It is determined by the meter.

Concrete screed - reinforced

The height is selected arbitrarily, it can be from 0.3 to 0.7 m from the base of the dismantled coating. From the line drawn on the vertical level of the down, equal segments are postponed, the value of them depends on the planned thickness of the future screed. It will be quite convenient to immediately mark the width on the wall. In this case, when the height is exceeded, it will be easier to reduce the thickness of the leveling layer immediately.

What should pay attention to? The standard power of the floating cement plate is five centimeters. It should be remembered that the layer of thickness is already one centimeter will put on one square of the wooden coating weighing about 120 kg. Without proper strengthening of the lag, their wooden design is not able to withstand such a mass. Lags or must be reliably strengthened, or (if possible) replaced with a metal chaserler.

Concrete Filling: Insulation Device

The following actions in the manufacture of an aligning screed are in the construction of insulating cutting barriers, which will be between the planned layer of alignment of the wooden floor of the floor. The result of our actions should be a kind of pallet, the walls of which do not pass water.

Floor insulation scheme

On the perimeter of the room, along all four walls, a fence from foamed polystyrene is constructed. The tape from this material is attached with a scotch or stapler (first better). Its thickness is 1-2 centimeters, and the width should be more powerful tie. In addition to the role of the barrier, this item will be able to neutralize sound oscillations. Also with its help the floating plate will be able to lengthen a little and expand. When the finish coating is laid, excessive surfaces are cut, and these places are closed by a plinth or its substituent.
The layer of polyethylene film is laid with the allen on each other at 10 cm, and with an occasion of the walls at 15-20 cm.

What is extremely important? In waterproofing, it is categorically not allowed to have holes, folds, slots and rubbed. Works should be done carefully, trying not to prick and do not tear the layer of waterproofing material. If there are still cuts, they must be closed with pop-bias from the same material.

It is best when there will be no compounds at the layer from the polyethylene film at all. If this does not work, then all available joints, with indispensable adolescents, should be reliably cocked by scotch.

Carefully sealed insulation will ensure the quality and reliability of the leveling layer.

Lighthouses for alignment of concrete floor in a private house

Lighthouses for a concrete screed - for smooth floor

Performing this task requires special care and accuracy. It is impossible to use metal nails and screws. It is convenient to form special beds across the entire equipment surface. They are made from the very solution, the same consistency and the composition as the planned screed. The heavy strip of the solution will not give the film to go and sneak when walking the master, as it will be tight pressed to the base.

The distance from the extreme garden to the wall should be approximately 20-30 cm. The distance between individual ridges should be one meter or a little more. It is necessary in order to show the screed to be comfortable, based on the rules on the lighthouses.

It is placed on the tops made a variety, and slightly interferes in the solution to a predetermined height (leveling level).

It is desirable all the necessary measures for the installation of beacons to spend over an hour after the start of the preparation of cement mass, as it will begin to be captured.

Screed in a wooden house: fittings or microfiber?

Floor Reinforcing Mesh

Thick cement pillow, which is a screed, needs fittings. Most often in her role there is a metal grid, just laid on the floor. But above, we have already noted the extreme importance of the integrity of the insulating film separating the cement mass and a wooden base. It is enough not easy to move along a tight, lying on a film from polyethylene, and not break the last.

We also pay attention to the fact that the armature is designed to strengthen not only the most bottom of the concrete layer.

It must be in the depths of the mass of concrete, and to ensure that it is its location, cement is desirable to pour not at one reception, but at least two, or more:

initial layer;
laying the grid, placement of lighthouses, finishing fill.

The informed about the operational characteristics of the concrete is certainly well represented how much it dries every individual layer of such a screed. Between the two steps will have to wait at least 28 days, it is almost a month, and so much will have to wait after the fill of the last layer.

Is there a way to avoid such a long wait? Yes, this method is available, but then instead of a metal mesh, it is better to use fibrovolok. In the process of preparation of the concrete mix, they are introduced into its composition, and their chaotic placed parts provide a good compression of the material in all directions. An additional plus - already heavy, the screed will noticeably ease, because the fiber weighs less reinforcement.

When the repair begins, the question arises: what floor should it be? Supporters of the latest technologies stop at self-leveling polymer floors, but there are those who prefer wooden floors. Its popularity does not fade over the centuries, and it is not surprising, since the tree is natural, eco-friendly material that does not contain any chemical impurities, and most importantly, wooden floors are warm. The installation of such a floor on a concrete basis will fully fulfill with their own hands, you only need to take into account the nuances of the process and take into account the nature of the room where the laying will be made.

The photo shows the process of eliminating holes and cracks in the concrete floor

The maximum degree of moisture of the screed is 3%.

At the preparatory stage in a concrete basis, communication holes (for sewage, cables, etc.) are made using a diamond bora.
An important point is waterproofing. It serves as protection for the lag and the future wooden flooring from moisture, thereby providing a longer service life. The waterproofing material can serve as a foam or thick film from polyethylene, to be carried out with 20 cm with intake 20 cm. Another option is to be coated with primer (polyurethane single-component primer). Then proceed to laying the floor.

Embodiments of waterproofing

Create wooden floor on a concrete base can be three ways:

On glue;
On lags;
On moisture-proof plywood.

Installation on glue

The meaning of this method is that the boards are styled directly on the concrete tie.

The foundation must meet the requirements of SNiP 3.04.01-87.

If concrete has a loose structure, cracks are present, the separation substrate is put on the base or soils are used to strengthen.

When using a wide wooden massif, the attachment of the boards is carried out on the elastic polyurethane single-component glue. Narrow engineering or massive board is fixed with polyurethane two-component glue.

Installation is done like this:

The room is measured, and the boards of the desired length are cut;
A glue mass is applied to the base with a spatula, the maximum layer thickness is 3 mm. You need to start from the wall opposite the entrance;
Two or three rows of boards are stacked and pressed. The docking of the boards in the transverse and longitudinal plane should be dense;
After pouring the glue, the remaining rows are added. The boards of the last row are cropped in width.

Laying on lags

This is the most popular technology to equip a wooden floor, the advantage of which is to mask communications under the floor. Their minus: As the base thickness is 10 cm, it is not recommended to carry out the thickness of the base in the rooms where the low ceiling.

Boards are attached to wood, which are bars, beams or thick boards standing on the edge.

Installation of wooden floor on lags Apply, if the thickness of the boards is at least 20 mm.

The lags are put on the base perpendicular to the rays of light, penetrating the window with the steps:

The board is less than 35 mm thick - 0.6 m;
35-40 mm - 0.8 m;
More than 40 mm - 1 m.

The sequence of actions during the arrangement of the wooden floor on the lags is:

Screws and dowels to fix lags on a concrete base. Their hats drown a few millimeters;
Align lags by level. The deviation should not exceed 2 mm for every two meters;
put along the walls wood and fibrous material for sound insulation;
fill the niches between lags with materials for sound and thermal insulation (clamzit, minvat, foam and so on.);
secure floorboards with self-draws.

Laying is made in the direction of beams of light, ranging from the wall. At the same time, it is necessary to leave the seam with a width of 0.7-1 cm in case of expansion with increasing temperature.

Fastening technology for lags

The joints of the boards must be located in the middle of the lag.

The headboard from one edge has a groove, the other side is a spool, it contributes to the hard bond of adjacent boards. Holes for self-tapping screws It is advisable to drill in advance and formation that prevents the cracking of the boards. When all the boards are laid, there is a turn of plinths.

Installation on plywood base

Plywood Styling Technology on Concrete Base

On a concrete screed, the laying of a wooden floor can be carried out using moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is from 12 to 18 mm. How it's done?

Plywood is cut into squares 40x40 or 80x80 cm.
There are gross grinding.
Sheets with an interval of 4 mm diagonally towards the future wooden floor. First, the plywood is fixed on glue, and then dowels. From the wall, it is necessary to retreat 10 mm. Laying of plywood sheets is similar to brick masonry. Hats screws are drilled by 3-4 mm.
The surface is cleared of dust and dirt.
Floor boards are attached self-drawing to plywood.

Sharing wooden floors on a concrete tie is easy. In compliance with the laying technology, such floors will serve for many years and will ensure the heat and comfortable microclimate in the house.

Dear reader, leave an opinion on the article in the comments and share our secrets of installing wooden floors.

A liquidate floor on a wooden base with their own hands, many raises questions. Is it possible? How to do it? What is better to use as a base - Phaneur, chipboard, osb or just boards? All the answers you need will find in our article.

Self-leveling mixtures are compositions from cement or gypsum binder, mineral fillers and modifying polymer additives that improve the basic characteristics of the composition (curing speed, bending strength, compression, and others).

On the label manufacturers, as a rule, indicate that the mixtures are designed to align and repair the bases of mineral type. These are cement-sand, anhydride and other types of screeds, concrete slabs, underlying layers of rubble, slag, sand, bulk and natural soils (rammed).

And how to find out which compositions can be used on chipboard and OSB-stove, wood and fane. To do this, just look into the instruction. In the description of cement and cement-gypsum liquid self-leveling floors, these categories must be specified.

For wooden and leaf surfaces, the compositions are used by a layer from 3 to 7 cm. Do not confuse with thin layer plaster and plaster-cement levels, the thickness of the layer of which does not exceed 0.2-3 cm.

Since wood and its derivatives (plywood, dvp, chipboard, OSB, HDF) have a high seasonal change in linear dimensions, manufacturers strongly recommend using separation layers (geotextiles, PE film) plus damper around the perimeter. Simply put - form floor "floating" type.

How to choose a multicomponent mixture? See the composition. According to the established rule, the component whom is more indicated in the complex compositions. For example, cement-gypsum bulk floor contains more than 50% of Portland cement and less than 30% of gypsum. Although the best option professionals consider purely cement compositions. The fact is that their strength is much higher than that of the analogs, respectively, you can make a more durable and reliable bulk floor on a wooden base.

So, is it possible to do the alignment of the base from the board, chipboard, OSB do it yourself with the help of ready-made compositions? The answer is yes, but with some reservations:

When choosing a mixture, carefully read the instructions, in particular the partitions "Composition" and "Base Types".
Form the floor of the "floating" type using a polyethylene film and damping tape. In extreme cases, carefully treat the base with waterproofing compositions (locking primers, impregnizers, mastic).

Technology of filling unit on a wooden base with their own hands

To fill the mixture, the next set of tools and materials will be required:

Grinding machine Ribbon, planetary (plane oxylipheal) and / or angular. It is better to rent for 1-2 days of the apparatus of a professional series. They are more powerful and work in several modes;
Small-grade sandpaper for finishing formations (from 180 to 600 units), as well as a tape or nozzle for grinding (grain size - from 80 units.);
Plastic or wooden grater for sandbumagi, manual cycle for minor work;
Building vacuum cleaner;
Hammer and nail);
Sealant or repair wrath for filling gaps, gaps;
Waterproofing formulations or polyethylene film with a thickness of 150 microns;
Damper tape;
Roller or membol for applying coating waterproofing;
Wide spatula or cleaner;
Plastic bucket either the tank for the kneading solution;
Construction mixer or drill with a nozzle;
Point lighthouses, laser level or water level;
Needle roller for rolling the mixture;
Oraskosta, gloves.

To your hands are not tired too quickly, choose tools with ergonomic, rubberized handles. They are comfortable in work and do not slide.

Self-leveling floor on Faneru, chipboard or OSB-slab need to be done in 3 stages.

Stage 1. Preparation of wooden surface

When working, you need to be guided by SP 29.13330.2011. The regulatory act requires to fill the moving formulations on the level (!), Durable and dry base. That is, without spots of oil, paint materials, bitumen and other defects.

To begin with, inspect the floor. It should be in good condition: without rot, plates of mold, paint residues, varnish, blacks, chips, "playing" boards. A sexed board, OSB and chipboard need to be checked for drops between sheets or straps, gaps, screenshots.

Removal of old paintwork

For the painted surface, use the washing of old LKM. Or manual grater, cycles gently remove the coating. By this, you will create enough rough base by which the waterproofing material is well "lying" and will not slide.

The easiest and effective way of preparing is grinding the entire surface by the planetary or a belt aggregate. Corundum or diamond abrasive will remarkably eliminate all the protruding irregularities (hill, drops), severe pollution. Manufacturers and technology strongly recommend not to skip the stage of thorough alignment of the surface under the fill. This is necessary in order to create a single, monolithic cement web to create the same thickness on the entire area, and therefore identical strength, without weak regions.

For the same purpose, the filling of the pits, chosel, chipping and slots of the elastic sealant on the tree, putty compositions. Professional repairmen pay a lot of time to this, because they know: needle roller when rolling the solution very often simply "rushes" a solution from the recesses. Because of this, the frozen surface is irregular. Instead of putty, you can use a simpler version - sawdust mixed with PVA glue.

Flooring plywood on ravaged boards.

Go through the floor and check where you need to additionally consolidate the base with the help of screws or nails. Be sure to check each slab or floorboard. The minimum interval between the mounts is 40-50 cm.

If the boards fucked or too damaged, it is possible to additionally put the chipboard or the phanener with a thickness of at least 14 mm. And in order to avoid the screens between the sheets, pumped into the gaps finely folded chalk.

Do not forget to pre-remove the plinth, as well as protruding metal elements or hardware. The whole fastener "climbs" with a hammer by 0.5 cm to the floor. After the completion of the work, you walk with a construction vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth to remove dust and small sawdust.

Formation of the separation layer of polyethylene.

The next step is the formation of a separation waterproofing layer and its careful fixation. The film is laid over the entire surface with a 10-15-minute wall building. If stripes are used, they are stacked by 8-12 cm.

Instead of polyethylene, the use of waterproofing compositions is allowed. And this must be done. The tree and its derivatives do not like moisture, there is a risk of formation of rotten areas under the ready-made bulk composition. In addition, the unprocessed wood has the property of "pulling" water from the solution. As a result, cement astringent will be insufficiently liquid for aging and a complete set of strength, and the floor is loose, weak, in the holes and tubercles.

It is known that cement and wood has a different thermal expansion coefficient. Therefore, in the future, in the future, the finished base has crackled or damaged the walls, it is necessary to cross the damper ribbon to the perimeter. It can be replaced by sliced \u200b\u200bto narrow strips with a thickness of 1-2 mm with sliced.

Stage 2. Preparation of bulk mortar

Pour the container clean, without impurities, water with a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C. Carefully pour the dry component, mix the construction mixer for 5-7 minutes at a speed of up to 500 rpm. The composition should be homogeneous, without lumps and bundles.

Give the solution to the solution for 5-10 minutes, then mix again. The life of the solution is always indicated on the label. This time during which the mixture should be used. On average, it is 20-60 minutes.

3 stage. Pouring self-leveling bulk sex

If necessary, tick the required level of the new cement layer or disappoint reference beacons on the basis.

Pouring self-leveling bulk sex.

Carefully pour the mixture to the surface. Start from a long corner, gradually moving towards the exit. Distribute the spatula or cleaner with a solution and ride a needle roller for deaeration and composition compaction. After 7-14 days, the new smooth floor will be ready to lay the tile, porcelain stoneware and other finishing flooring.

Summing up, we note: does not matter whether it acts as the base of plywood or chipboard, a HDF or OSB, board or concrete. It is the right preparation that is important, namely the formation of a flat, solid and dry base.

Tip! If you need repair masters, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the works that you need to perform and offers to you in the post office with prices from building brigades and firms. You can see the reviews about each of them and photos with examples of work. This is free and does not oblige anything.

The main advantages of bulk floors are enclosed in their wear resistance, durability and coating strength. In addition, they have such qualities as: environmental friendliness and safety.

From the moment of their creation, there were also serious changes, today polyurethane coatings have a rich number of color options, especially this concerns such a species like a bulk floor of 3D. With their help, it is possible to create real design masterpieces with a stunning three-dimensional effect.

When laying a liquid mixture, one of the time-consuming processes is the preparation of the base. Many homeowners scare the work on the dismantling of the old wooden coating. At the same time, not all of them know that along with concrete can be used and a wooden foundation. The installation of a liquid coating on a tree should be in the event that the wooden is good. You should choose a thin-touch mixture so as not to increase the height.

Preparatory work

Before the fill should be carefully prepared the basis. This procedure must be done with any kind of foundations, and especially if the installation of the surface will be made on an existing wooden coating.

First of all, it is necessary to remove all the plinths from the floor, as well as remove their attachments from the walls. After that, the surface is produced. To do this should be used. However, if the room is a small area, then we can cope with manual cycles.

The next step is to open the crack with the help of a grinding machine, which, one way or another, are formed on a wooden coating. Then all irregularities and cracks are embarrassed by putty. After it dries, the surface is polished by a coarse-grained emery. This procedure is needed to provide better adhesion.

Then, purified from dust with the help of an industrial vacuum cleaner, the coating should be deguted before priming. The primer base is necessary to increase the adhesion strength of the tree with polyurethane material.

Ground the base follows two layers. The composition you can add sainted quartz sand, thus, the most reliable adhesion between the basis and the polymer coating will be provided.

Required tool for performing work

To perform work on the preparation of the base, you will need:

Nail-holder, wooden wedges and chisels for removal of plinths.
Cyclical machine or manual cycle.
Grinder machine.
Coarse sandpaper.
Industrial vacuum cleaner.
Roller or brush for applying primer.
Flat brush or short pile roller for the distribution of polymer coating.
Raklya and spatula.
The mixer is a construction or drill to mix the solutions of the bulk.

This should also include working workwear, safety glasses, gloves and respirators. Soles are needed and soles with spikes for the possibility of walking along the freshly mounted layer.

Technology of the liquid floor

The polymer flooring technology on an ordinary wooden one does not differ from a similar procedure, where concrete performs as a base. The difference is enclosed only in the preparatory stage, which we considered in detail above.

Before filling the bulk floor to a wooden surface, it is necessary to prepare a solution in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instruction.

In a nutshell, the dry mixture is mixed using a building mixer with water before the formation of a homogeneous mass. Then, the resulting solution is laid out on a wooden base, starting from the far corner of the room.

Mass must be aligned with the spatula until the thickness is achieved. In the case of a wooden floor - this is a maximum of 5 mm. The best tool for leveling and eliminating air bubbles is a needle roller.

The gaps between the fills of the solutions of the solution should not exceed 10 minutes, while the joints should be thoroughly rolled with roller.

At the end of the fill, after 15 minutes, it is necessary to hide the frozen surface with the film, preventing the deposition of dust. After applying the main layer of bulk sex and its hardening is applied. It can be a polymer or varnish.

Cost of Montaja

In general, the procedure is quite simple, and it can be made independently, but if financial capabilities allow, nevertheless, you should hire a team of specialists who practically know how to make bulk floors.

Hiring professionals will provide:

High quality performance
Warranty on all work done
Mounting work according to technologies
Use of expensive, but necessary construction tools.

The cost of installing a bulk sex consists of several stages, it is:

Preparatory work (average price 400 rubles per 1 sq. M);
Primer base (average price 200 rubles per 1 sq. M);
Pouring surface (average price of 400 rubles per 1 sq. M).

The cost of the device of decorative floors is calculated individually. In mandatory, use the services of specialists in the event that the liquid sex is planned in 3D format.

In the case of an independent work of work, you should not neglect the advice of professionals. Their experience will help to do without expensive alterations later.

For residential premises, the mixtures of bulk floors based on polymer resins should be selected. At the same time, the epoxy type of flooring is used in places of high humidity, while polyurethane gender in the rest of the houses.

It is better to produce a fill on a concrete base, but still, installation is allowed and on a militant wooden surface.

At the same time, its preparation is no less laborious, and the service life, and the appearance of the floor depends on its quality. It is necessary to produce the primer of the base in two layers - it will facilitate the main work on the fill and increase the strength of the coating.

To create a high-quality liquid coating on a wooden basis in each particular case, you should produce your necessary complex. Much is directly dependent on the conditions for further operation, area and type of room, as well as the type of base. If you doubt your high-quality installation capabilities, refer to the specialists who will not only produce work, but will help with the choice of optimal materials.

When repaired in the house or apartment, the master may face the challenge of the wooden floor. Over time, such coatings become creaky, lose evenness. Also possible is the appearance of various damage. To reduce the duration of repair work, it is best to lay a new floor covering without removing the old wooden floor.

To equalize the base, the screed on the wooden floor laid under the tile is perfect.It is important to consider this particular option, since the installation of the tile is the most difficult task for the wooden floor. The material is characterized by high density and has a strong impact on the underlying structures. If you understand how to make a tile tile, there will be no problems with the rest of the coatings.

How can you make a screed

Options for work two:

standard concrete fill;
using the dry method.

The second option is more suitable for the wooden floor, because it has the following advantages:

small mass;
simplicity;
convenience of laying communications;
the ability to correct errors;
lack of wet processes;
there is no need to wait for drying, which requires cement screed.

But you can also allocate disadvantages for use in the house:

making a dry tie requires greater thickness than concrete is made (the height of the room decreases);
due to the increased thickness, the consumption of materials is higher than when creating a traditional base.

Depending on the conditions, requirements and wishes, you can make a choice between two options when laying the material under the tile.

Technology of work production

Making a tile on the tile on wooden floors should be in a strictly installed manner. When repaired in the house, you first need to examine the designs of the overlap and floor. To identify weak points will be convinced of the absence of serious damage. If traces of rotting, mold, action fungi and other microorganisms are found, it is better to make a selective replacement of wooden floor elements.

Wood floor preparation scheme before laying tiles, part 1

Wood floor preparation diagram before laying tiles, part 2

With the help of a screed, you can eliminate irregularities and strengthen the surface before fastening the floor covering, but it will not get rid of serious defects. The base under the tile should be smooth and durable, since it will have to withstand serious loads. To prevent problems during operation, it is better to make timely replacement and removal of old boards in the house.

After inspecting the old floor, you can start the main task. Make the fill classic wet tie is recommended in the following order:

If earlier on the floor was screed from cement, it is removed by grinding or milling.
Checking the reliability of fasteners of boards flooring to lags. If they do not have reliable fixation, creap will appear when operating. To prevent all elements of the old floor, you need to securely attach to each other.
Next, the surface is cleaning from old pollution. Delete it takes fat, traces of glue, old paint layer, various impregnations, dirt and dust.
If necessary, you should pass the surface of the old floor with a special typewriter. In this way, the top layer is removed, the base under the tile becomes smoother.
If irregularities with a drop of heights of more than 1 cm are revealed on the floor, you need to pre-align under the tile. To perform work, you can use various leveling mixtures based on cement binder. The composition covers the surface of the boards, close the cracks using a spacure. Can apply water-orienable compositions for shtcloth.
Instead of plinths around the perimeter of the walls, rails are mounted, which will cover the distance between the old floor and the wall. Thin rails are installed with subsequent shtkock. This rail is removed after the completion of the work. With it, it provides a gap, which will allow the air to enter the space under the floor. For a wooden coating, it is extremely important because if you do not take measures for ventilation, wood will rot and cause trouble during operation.
The aligned surface must be primed in accordance with the technology of this process.. For priming they buy a ready-made mixture. The layer of this material will not only increase the adhesion, but also improve the spreadability of the mixture for pouring the draft floor over the surface when performing repair work. When processing, the floor should be dry, work is performed twice.
Having finished with the previous stage, under the tile you need to put the reinforcing grid. The diameter of the elements is taken equal to 3-4 mm. Cell dimensions 50 by 50 mm. This stage can be neglected, but it is to ensure greater reliability of the foundation and the ability to withstand higher loads.
When preparing a solution, it is necessary to observe proportions. It is better not to produce it yourself, but to buy a ready-made dry mix, for the preparation of which only water will be required. This will avoid the error when choosing the proportions of components and reduce the complexity of the screed fill process.
The mixture must be applied in one app. If you perform work in several stages, the layer will not work as a whole, cracks, breaks and irregularities will appear. For applying uses toothed spatulas. Control the thickness of application using guide-beacons or marks on the surface of the walls.
After completing the laying of the solution, it is necessary to give concrete enough. This process takes several hours under normal conditions. After this time, on the floor, it is possible to carefully walk, but for full use it will be ready for no earlier than in a couple of weeks (in the summer, for the winter season, the timelines increase).
Remove the rails installed on the perimeter of the walls instead of plinths. After that, if necessary, you can make grinding (no earlier than 6 hours after the fill).