According to building regulations and requirements, all rooms without windows are equipped with ventilation systems. Therefore, the ventilation duct on the roof is commonplace these days.

The main thing to pay attention to is that the design parameters ventilation system corresponded to the real state of the channel, in addition, the tightness of the passage of the ventilation pipe through the roof structure is considered an essential condition, every carelessness during the installation of such units leads to a leak through the roof.

Ventilation pipes

The pipe is the main element of the hood and heating system... Organizing it is a rather difficult task, especially if the building is large. When designing premises, specialists in mandatory take into account the location of the ventilation hood.

The optimal solution is the presence of ventilation windows in all rooms, located opposite the window, under the ceiling. In the process of creating walls using TISE technologies, the construction of a chimney and a ventilation hood becomes easier due to the presence of a vertical channel in the wall.

All rooms can be equipped with windows exhaust ventilation that communicate with them.

What are we for

A ventilation pipeline is brought out on the roof often in order to:

• ventilation of internal premises;
• ventilation of the attic;
• installation of a fan pipe that comes from the sewer.

Principle of operation

Removing ventilation through the roof

In accordance with building regulations: any room where there is no window must be equipped with a ventilation duct. This can be verified with a thorough examination of the living quarters. Most likely, there are characteristic gaps on the wall of the bathroom and toilet, pantry, wardrobe, etc.

On the territory of the kitchen, despite the presence of windows, a ventilation system is also required. True, not only the presence of such communications is required, but also their proper operation: the installation and removal of the ventilation pipe to the roof is not an easy matter.

And you need to carefully study the necessary information related to the installation process.

Types of ventilation pipes

The following types stand out in shape ventilation pipes:

• pipes with a circular cross section;
• pipes with a rectangular cross section;
• pipes unusual shape(combined, cropped, truncated, etc.)

Pipes are made from the following materials:

• Cink Steel.
• Stainless steel.
• Plastic.
• Polyester fabric.
• Aluminum.

Requirements for ventilation ducts

The essence of the requirements for the ventilation pipeline lies in the following characteristics:

• The ventilation duct must be at least 15 cm in diameter. It is these parameters that will withstand standard materials made of galvanized steel.
• When arranging supply and exhaust ventilation- the pipeline on its branch part has a rather high ring stiffness. Since on the section of the ventilation pipe raised above the roof, a significant wind load “presses”.
• The ventilation pipe must not only have strength, but also have thin walls. The thinner its walls, the greater their throughput.
• A household chimney should not rust. Since the water vapor contained in the room settles on inner walls pipeline. In addition, ventilation in the house should not be subject to combustion or release of harmful substances during combustion.
• The piping system itself must have a minimum weight. The selection for the category of ventilation pipes can be arranged by comparing the masses of a running meter of the “candidates”.

It should be noted that traditional material, from which ventilation is made in a private building - a brick or a pipe made of galvanized steel - have almost all of the above qualities. But, the mass of a brick pipeline meets all standards. What's more, the metal pipe is impregnated with static electricity, which attracts dust.

The design of the passage unit for the outlet of the ventilation pipe to the roof

Installation of ventilation pipes

Before constructing the outlet of ventilation pipes, you need to complete the installation of internal communications and fix the air ducts. The list of required tools depends on the type of roof material. In addition, you will need building level to check the correct position of the ventilation pipe and the marking marker.

Required materials and tools

• drill;
• chisel;
• building level;
• electric jigsaw;
• scissors for metal;
• insulation;
• screwdrivers;
• marker (for marking);
• sealant;
• , screws;
• sealing gaskets;
• passage node;
• rags;
• work uniform.

Step by step guide

When self installation systems, it is optimal to use the assembled passage assembly, which will only need to be installed, which is simple:

• You need to choose a place. According to the requirements of SNiP and taking into account the characteristics of the roof, it is necessary to determine the best place to make a passage.
• Markup. Using a marker, notes are made with the layout of the assembly of the unit.
• Then make a slit. A hole is cut (with any tool suitable for this purpose, taking into account the material of the roof).
• Holes are cut using the same method. in insulation and waterproofing.
• Marking in progress to install the node.
• Removes dirt and debris from the top layer of the roof.
• Grooves for self-tapping screws are drilled in accordance with the markings.
• The pass-through is being “tried on”.
• The knot is fixed by means of self-tapping screws.
• A ventilation pipe is installed, the structure is fixed by means of screws.

Nuances

The planning and installation of ventilation systems is a rather serious task, all used mine ventilation pipes must comply with all calculations and rules in the instructions. Therefore, only a professional should be engaged in the design, taking into account all the possible subtleties and features of the structure.

Length and cross-section of pipes

• The ventilation pipeline for the arrangement of the channel is selected in such a way that the perimeter of the section of the ventilation duct is at least 0.016 sq. m.
• Each side of the channel is at least 10 cm, but in the process of creating the structure of the exhaust channel, the parameters of its walls are not actually calculated.
• The selection is made in accordance with the standard- 14 by 14 cm. Its length generally reaches at least 3 m.
• If the section is 14 by 27 cm the length is selected in the calculation of more than 2 m.

Everything necessary calculations, of course, are carried out in advance, until the moment when the ventilation pipe is closed, if necessary.

Temperature dependence of ventilation

The temperature difference between the air at the outlet and inlet of the duct dramatically affects the draft indicator in the ventilation ducts. The draft inside the duct increases to the extent that the temperature outside and inside the building differs.

This is the reason that in winter time ventilation functions much more efficiently than in summer.

Even in the planning process, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the channels passing under the roof so that the air draft does not decrease, and the exhaust channels are protected from condensation on top layer inside.

The ventilation shaft pipe is heated if the layout assumes its location along the chimney when using stove heating or along pipes for supplying hot water and heating.

With this arrangement, the channels will not become cold; in addition, the quality of ventilation is improved. But there is also a tangible disadvantage: the draft in such ducts is slightly higher than in other ventilation ducts in the building, as a result of which there will be a risk of disruption to their functioning.

In the process of creating a ventilation project, this should not be forgotten.

Ventilation duct resistance

In the process of working with the roof, ondulin is used to create ventilation - polymer pipe ventilation, letting in air and preventing the ingress of precipitation.

It is used in conjunction with ondulin roofing sheet - the ventilation duct is an important link to ensure proper circulation of air masses.

Air draft is very dependent on the inner surface of the ventilation duct, more precisely, on the resistance created by it. It will be weaker if the surface is slightly rough.

How to lower resistance:

• To reduce the resistance, all joints of the parts that make up the pipe must be carefully aligned.
• The seams should not have grooves and protrusions, they should be as smooth as possible, and excess mortar should be removed.
• The channel cross-section remains unchanged over the entire plane. There is no smoothness on the channel, kinks, bends, incorrect connections of ventilation pipes, various deviations from the vertical have a negative effect on the traction force.
• In a situation where it is impossible to abandon them from the technical point of view, the deflection angle should be maintained no more than 30 degrees.
• Horizontal platforms must be completely excluded.

Conclusion of ventilation pipes through the roof

The ventilation duct on the roof is of great importance for the functioning of the system. Therefore, in the process of construction and planning natural ventilation you need to pay special attention to the literacy of the channel output above the roof of the building.

Such a branch should not harm the functioning of the ventilation system, since the height of the pipeline must be carefully calculated. It is necessary to take into account the operating parameters of the hood, which affect the quality of the system, other external factors, the shape and type of the pipe.

When the pipe is placed very low on the roof, insufficient draft may result and the hood will work in the opposite direction. This problem can be easily solved by installing nozzles on the pipe, which protect from the influence of the wind.

Height of pipes above the roof (SNiP)

The height of the pipe on top of the roof should have the following characteristics, taking into account the conditions:

• Over flat roof- not less than 0.5 m.
• On top of the parapet or ridge of the roof, when the distance from the ridge to the pipeline reaches at least 2 m - not less than 0.5 m.
• When the chimney is located at a distance of 2 to 3 m from the ridge - on the same level with the parapet or ridge and above.
• In a situation where the chimney is located farther than 3 m from the ridge - on one line that goes from the ridge of the roof at an angle to the horizon of 10 degrees and higher.

Insulation of ventilation pipes

The following materials are used to insulate pipes:

• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• polypropylene;
• basalt fiber.

The pipe is insulated in the form:

• shells;
• cylinder;
• half-cylinder;
• cords.

Roof pipe waterproofing

The cost of ventilation pipes

The price of a galvanized pipeline directly depends on:

• pipeline wall thickness;
• pipe diameter;
• its length.

For example, the price of a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, a wall thickness of 0.5 mm, a length of 1.25 m will be no more than 150 rubles, and a pipeline with a diameter of 8 cm with the same length and of the same metal will cost 10 times more. ...

Galvanized steel piping costs little. It is necessary to correctly calculate the required number of pipes and fittings.

The ventilation system is often installed when construction process, if it becomes possible to lay out the outlet, calculate the perimeter, choose the optimal place on the roof, etc. It is more difficult to equip ventilation in a built house. External change indoors can adversely affect the elements of the roof: rafters, battens, etc.

Incorrect installation can lead to the following consequences:

• weak cravings;
• the penetration of smell from one room to another;
• moisture penetration into the dwelling;
• high humidity;
• lack of oxygen;
• the appearance of fungal bacteria on the wall, ceiling, floor;
• unpleasant odor in the room;
• the appearance of soot in the kitchen;
• penetration deep into the building of smoke from other pipes;
• increasing the intensity of diseases of residents;
• freezing of parts of the structure.

Proper installation of ventilation pipes on the roof is the key to a comfortable home and a healthy state of residents.

Having made a competent choice of the location of the outlet of the ventilation pipeline on the roof, observing the technology of its installation and using auxiliary devices, it is quite simple to create favorable air movement within the system and create a cozy atmosphere inside the home.

No basement room can do without a ventilation system, since in the absence of a constant flow fresh air dampness cannot be avoided. In basements and cellars, not only canned supplies are usually stored, but also fresh vegetables and fruits that "breathe", from which moisture must accumulate in the room. In addition, the walls can absorb moisture from the soil on the outside, if the basement was poorly arranged during construction.

Do-it-yourself ventilation of the cellar is quite simple. Moreover, it is possible to install and adjust the operation of this constant air exchange system not only at the construction stage, but also in a ready-made storage facility.

How the system works

The operation of the ventilation system is based on the laws of physics, and if you carefully examine its schematic diagram, you can see that it is arranged very simply and clearly.

The general ventilation principle is extremely simple

There are two ventilation openings in the cellar room, through one of which fresh air enters the basement, and through the second it is removed along with all the fumes. But the system was would insufficiently effective if the ventilation openings were not would pipes of a certain diameter are supplied.

Also, the quality of ventilation is highly dependent on the correct location of the exhaust and supply pipes and on raising them above the ground above the cellar.

Ventilation pipes can be installed in the walls of the basement, if it is located under a house or garage, or they can be brought out through the ceiling, in the event that arranged in the courtyard as a separate building.

Another important point when calculating and installing the system, the height of the installation of pipes from the basement floor and bringing them out to the street is considered, since too much cold air can enter the room, which will be dangerous for vegetables stored in chests fresh. The holes cannot be made too small, since the musty air will not leave the room completely, which means that the food stored in it will definitely start to deteriorate.

Before starting the installation of any of the types of ventilation systems, you need to familiarize yourself with some recommendations that must be taken into account during design and construction work:

• It will be correct if the ventilation system begins to be laid during the construction of the cellar - in this case, channels are left in the masonry of the walls, into which ventilation pipes are installed.

Undoubtedly, the best option- the device of the ventilation system even during the construction of the cellar

In order not to guess later where it is better to install the pipes, ventilation must be immediately included in the cellar project.

• The pipes to be installed must have the same diameter - this parameter makes the air circulation uniform. If it is necessary to speed up the removal of stagnant air saturated with dampness, the exhaust pipe can be taken with a slightly larger diameter than that of the supply pipe. However, under no circumstances should a chimney be installed with a diameter smaller than that of the supply one, since air under such conditions can begin to be trapped inside the room. This will negatively affect the food stored in the cellar, but the main danger is behold in the other, a certain threat to human health is created during his descent into a gas-polluted underground room.
• Never place both ventilation pipes next to each other, as the room in this case will not be well ventilated. They must be mounted on opposite walls or in opposite corners. This is done so that the fresh stream, before going out into the street, passes through the entire room and pushes the stagnant air out into the chimney.
• The opening of the chimney must be installed under the very ceiling, since the warmer exhaust air rushes upward. Such its location will contribute to the constant purification of the air, without stagnation in the ceiling area, and hence the good preservation of products.
• To ensure good draft, the ventilation pipe of the hood rises above the ridge or embankment above the cellar ceiling by at least 1500 mm.
• For the ventilation system, they most often use plastic pipes designed for sewerage. For small spaces this diameter is usually sufficient.
• If the cellar is located under a garage or under another utility room, then an entrance hatch can be used as an exhaust hole.

In this case, two two rts are made, one insulated - winter, and the other is in the form of a frame, with a fine lattice fixed on it. The grate is necessary so that small rodents do not slip into the basement.

The insulated hatch is removed in the summer for constant ventilation of the cellar. If the room above the basement is insulated, then airing sessions can be carried out in winter.

Option - a cellar in the basement under the house

• When installing ventilation in a cellar located under a house or garage, you need foresee that so that bends and bends in both the supply and exhaust pipes have as less as possible... Ideally, it is best to position it so that the pipe is perfectly straight.
• The pipe must have the same diameter along its entire length, without extensions or contractions.
• On the street, the supply pipe, if it is located not high above the ground, must be closed with a mesh (grate) to protect the cellar from the penetration of rodents or other small animals and birds.

• It is recommended to install dampers regulating air inflow and outflow in both pipes, which are especially necessary in winter. They help to meter the intake of cold air in severe frosts and, accordingly, the outflow of warm air, to maintain the required microclimate in the cellar.

• If the pipe heads are located strictly vertically, they must be protected from the ingress of atmospheric precipitation, dust and debris by installing a metal umbrella or deflector on top.

The deflector is more profitable, since it creates an artificial vacuum and increases traction

When using a deflector, a vacuum area is created around it, and this phenomenon contributes to an increase in thrust.

• The outdoor section of the chimney must be well insulated to avoid condensation in cold period of the year.

Types of cellar ventilation systems

There are two basic types of ventilation systems - natural and forced. And one or another option is chosen depending on the volume and layout of the basement room.

Natural ventilation system

Natural ventilation is based on pressure and temperature differences between indoor and outdoor. Effective operation largely depends on the correct placement of the pipes. So, the inlet opening should be at a maximum height of 250 ÷ 300 mm from the floor, and the exhaust outlet - below the ceiling level by 100 ÷ 200 mm. It is not permissible to place it even lower, otherwise the ceiling will begin to damp.

This ventilation system may be clearly insufficient for a large cellar room, or if it consists of several rooms.

Video: Natural ventilation in the cellar under the garage

Forced ventilation system

In system forced ventilation there are all the same channels (pipes), but fans are built into them to create forced air movement.

In the most simple systems forced-type fan is installed on the exhaust duct. Thus, an artificial vacuum is created in the room, which contributes to the active flow of fresh air into the cellar through the inlet. The power of the selected fan will depend on the volume of the room.

They also act in a different way - they install fans on both the supply and exhaust ducts. This is true in voluminous basements with complex configurations. Here you will definitely need the help of a specialist in order to calculate the consistency of the intake and exit of air, that is, the diameters of the channels and the power (performance) of the fans installed in them.

Video: an example of homemade forced ventilation of the cellar

Calculation of the diameters of ventilation ducts

With any type of ventilation, it is very important to correctly determine the pipe diameters. The calculation algorithms used by professional designers are very complex, and it makes no sense to present them completely. However, when equipping ventilation in a small private cellar, you can use a simplified counting technique.

So, with some assumptions acceptable under these conditions, we can assume that for one square meter of the cellar area, 26 square centimeters of the sectional area of ​​the ventilation duct is required. So, for example, you can estimate what pipe diameter will be needed for a 3 × 2 meter cellar.

We find the area of ​​the room:

S = 3 × 2 = 6 m2

According to the specified ratio, it will require a pipe with the following channel cross-sectional area:

T = 6 × 26 = 156 cm²

It remains to find the radius of the pipe:

R = √ (T / π) = √ (156 / 3.14) ≈ 7.05 cm

Therefore, the diameter of the flow pipe is:

Dp ≈ 14 cm = 140 mm.

Provided that only forced ventilation, and the hatch will play the role of the exhaust, then you can slightly increase the inlet channel by installing a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm.

To ensure air exchange, it is customary to install a pipe with a diameter of 10 ÷ 15% more on the exhaust duct than at the inlet. In this example, you can install on the exhaust duct:

Dv = Dp + 15% = 140 + 21 ≈ 160 mm

Ventilation installation

Having made the necessary calculations, taking into account all the above-described nuances, you can proceed to the installation of ventilation.

• If the ventilation system is installed after the construction of the cellar, then a hole must be made in its ceiling for the passage of the air duct.
• Then, a pipe is lowered through the hole into the cellar, which will work for the hood, it is fixed under the ceiling, no more than 100 ÷ 150 mm below its surface.
• On the street, the chimney is raised to a height of at least 1500 mm above the ground or above the roof surface.

• In the opposite corner of the cellar, a hole is also made in the ceiling or wall, and a supply pipe is installed and fixed into it, which is lowered to the floor. It should be located at least 200 mm from the floor and not higher than 500 mm.
• On the street, the supply pipe should not be made very high. If it comes out through the ceiling, it is enough to raise it by 200 ÷ 250 mm. It should be borne in mind that the lower the intake opening of the supply pipe is, the higher the pressure difference at the inlet and outlet, the stronger the natural draft, and hence the air flow.
• If the supply pipe is led out through the wall, then it is put on ventilation grill or a plastic deflector.

• In the event that the installation of ventilation for the cellar is carried out in a house where a fireplace or stove is installed, it is recommended to raise the chimney next to the chimney, since this activates the exhaust of exhaust air from the basement due to the large temperature difference.

• It is recommended to install dampers on the pipes inside the cellar to adjust the strength of the air flows. By opening them to the required clearance in the room, the intensity of circulation, humidity and air temperature are regulated. It is from the presence of a damper and the correct regulation of the microclimate in the cellar that it will depend on whether the workpieces are kept in proper condition for a long time.

After the system is assembled, be sure to check it for normal thrust.

• To check the pressure of the air flow at the inlet, you need to attach a piece of thin paper to the pipe. If it begins to clearly sway, then the intensity of the air intake is good.
• Another way to check that the system is working is to direct the smoke from paper lit in a metal bucket. It will be enough to have a couple of old newspapers, which need to be lit, allowed to burn out to half, and then extinguished to a state of decay.

Additional actions to maintain a normal microclimate

To maintain a comfortable microclimate in the cellar for storing food, you should periodically perform the following actions:

In order to help reduce humidity in the basement, it must be regularly ventilated. So, in the summer, all doors or hatches are opened and the dampers on the openings are fully opened. The hot summer wind will do its job - it will dry and ventilate the cellar. Other, more effective methods of forced drying of the cellar will be described below.

There are times when it is necessary, on the contrary, to increase the humidity in the storage room. Then water is sprayed in the cellar with a spray bottle, wet sawdust is sprinkled on the floor, or a box filled with wet sand is installed. Sawdust and sand are moistened with water as needed.

Drying the cellar

It can also be attributed to ventilation measures, so you should also have a sufficient understanding of them. Moreover, there are several ways to perform this procedure.

As mentioned above, all drying processes are carried out in the summer, but it is additionally recommended to perform them one more time just before laying vegetables in the cellar.

If the room is very damp, then all items of "basement furniture" and boxes (lari) for storing vegetables should be removed from it. It is advisable to dry them under direct sunbeams- their ultraviolet component will be an excellent "medicine" against mold and mildew.

All doors and hatches open wide, and if a fan is installed in the basement, then it can also be turned on. Thus, the cellar must be ventilated for 3 ÷ 5 days, and this will become preliminary preparation before major dehumidification activities.

The first way - boxes with a hygroscopic substance

In the process of drying, sometimes you can get by with a completely uncomplicated method. A box filled with quicklime or common coarse salt is brought into the cellar. These components are inexpensive, highly hygroscopic and perfectly absorb moisture. Moreover, they also disinfect the air and walls of the room.

The second way is the old candle method

Very old, popular, extremely simple and in an accessible way drying is the installation at the exhaust pipe of a burning candle. It must be installed in an iron container and on a stable stand.

Simple and effective method drying - with a candle

The candle contributes to the creation of more intense draft in the chimney, therefore the air circulation in the room is accelerated, and its exchange occurs much more often than with the usual ventilation mode.

In addition to a candle, a conventional spirit lamp with liquid or dry fuel can be used for the same purpose.

Drying in this way continues for several days, depending on how humid the room is. The plug or fuel in the burner is replaced as needed several times - until the desired result is obtained.

The third method is a metal brazier

A more troublesome, but no less reliable way to dry quickly is with the help of an impromptu brazier, which can be made from a metal container, for example, from an old bucket.

Several holes are made in it to increase traction, and then firewood is loaded into the container, preferably birch, as they are able to create favorable disinfecting smoke.

You can create more complex structure using a cast-iron grate, which is installed on bricks placed in its corners. On top of the grill is installed bucketwithout a bottom into which firewood is also stacked and set on fire. The advantage of this method is that the grate is able to glow red-hot and then slowly cool down, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the thrust increases, and, accordingly, the air exchange is accelerated.

The fire should burn continuously, at least 12-14 hours, so you need to allocate a whole day for these procedures and prepare a lot of birch firewood.

Raising the brazier for additional loading of firewood and lowering it is carried out through the hatch using a cable with a hook. The place for such an impromptu "fenced fire" must be prepared in advance so that no prerequisites for a fire are created.

The fourth way is to use electric heaters

The method using electric heaters can be called not too troublesome. Any of the commercially available devices will work for this purpose, but it is best to use either “wind-blown” models.

The heater is installed in the middle of the cellar so that the heat is evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the room.

When using this method, you need to fully understand that such a drying process is quite long and, therefore, expensive, so you need to immediately calculate your financial capabilities.

Drying the cellar powerful heat generator quite popular, as this method is very effective. It is even used to dry out the basements of flood survivors.

Due to the heat radiation and the powerful flow created by the fan, the cellar dries out quickly enough. The device also works on electricity, but such drying will be cheaper, since it will be much faster. However, you can try to find heat gun that also runs on propane.

Prices for popular models of electric heaters

Electric heaters

The fifth method is a regular home fan

Since there are fans in almost every home, they are also often used to remove excess moisture from the cellar. The fan is installed in the center of the cellar and turned on for three to five days. In this case, all existing openings, doors or hatches must be wide open.

Sixth way - portable stove

Used for drying procedures in basements and conventional stove-stoves.

In this case, the chimney of the furnace is brought to the exhaust hole, and the stove is heated for three to five days. At the same time, air exchange in the cellar increases rapidly, which leads to effective drying premises.

If there is no exhaust pipe in the cellar, then this method does not make sense to use, since there will be a lot of smoke in the room, but the drying effect will be very small.

Cellar waterproofing treatment

After drying the cellar, for the maximum long-term preservation of the achieved state of the room, it is recommended to cover the surfaces of the walls and floor with waterproofing compounds.

• If the walls are made of concrete, then it is used, which is used to treat surfaces in several layers.

With each layer, it penetrates deep into the concrete slab, closing all the pores inside it, thus creating a waterproof yet breathable surface.

• Cover the dried cellar with roofing felt, which is excellent waterproofing.

In this case, the desired effect can be obtained if the material is laid on a flat surface. On her mastic is applied, which is then heated, and then on her roofing material is glued, creating waterproof walls and floor.

• Clay is an excellent waterproofing environmentally friendly material.

This method of waterproofing a room is called padding. The only requirement for natural material for flooring and walls, this is a high percentage of fat content.

- For the process, you will need stones that will strengthen the floor of the cellar. They are poured onto its surface, then a solution of clay with the addition of sand is spread on top of them. This layer should be at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. The consistency of the clay mortar must be thick enough.

- The clay is spread over the surface and compacted among the stones, creating a mixed coating.

- Having completely compacted the surface to an even state, a layer of coarse sand is poured onto it, the thickness of which should be 40 ÷ 60 mm. The sand is also compacted with a rammer - this makes the surface even more dense. The remaining sand is then simply swept off the floor. If you want to achieve a neat flat surface, then from above it is finally smoothed out using a special grouting tool.

- The clay floor dries for a long time - from 20 to 40 days, so this work should be started at the beginning of summer. Then the cellar will be fully operational in autumn.

• Earthen walls are also possible waterproof clay. On them, with the help of small metal brackets, a mesh-netting or ordinary soft wire is fixed. Then they throw on this base clay mortar... When it dries up, another layer is applied, which is smoothed by hand or with a grout, in a circular motion.

In addition to these waterproofing materials, others are used, but the above ones can be called the most affordable and safe for the premises where food will be stored.

A ventilation device in the cellar is necessary, and it is better to think about this in advance, having carried out its installation even during the construction of the storage. If the system is installed correctly, then serious and long-term drying processes can be avoided, since ordinary ventilation will be enough to do.

Video: how ventilation in the cellar can be arranged

Owners of private houses, as a rule, use a cellar for storing food. But due to the lack of windows, the room is deprived of the normal level of air exchange. This leads to high humidity, the formation of mold with mold, accelerated deterioration of food, which is very unpleasant, isn't it?

Want to prevent these kinds of problems, but don't know how? We will show you a solution - after all, properly organized ventilation of the cellar with two pipes will help to ensure the flow of air. And you can do it yourself.

The main stages of work and the rules of arrangement are discussed in detail in our article. The material is supplemented with visual photo instructions and detailed video recommendations for organizing optimal climatic conditions in the cellar. Having studied which even a beginner will be able to understand the basics of the ventilation system at home.

As a rule, there is a basement in every private house. Many residents of the private sector equip in it utility rooms, a cellar, they arrange saunas, gyms, lounges, which requires the arrangement of a complex system.

However, most often the basement is used to store food supplies, which, although they need a certain microclimate, do not require a forced draft device.

In this case, it will be enough to make a natural one.

Lack or insufficient ventilation of the cellar is the main reason increased moisture and mold formation

Nevertheless, in order to ensure the safety of products and the correct functioning of the cellar, it is necessary to adhere to some rules in the arrangement of this room.

Let's consider them in more detail:

1. Avoid getting into the basement natural light ... There should be no windows in the basement, and occasional use of electric lighting is allowed.
2. Organize a favorable temperature regime. For this, the cellar is equipped in such a way that one of its sides is in contact with the outer wall of the house.
3. Ensure normal air exchange in the room, which is ensured by the presence of ventilation.
4. Maintain the required room humidity... The optimal indicator is about 90%. This parameter also depends on ventilation.
5. Equip good waterproofing to prevent groundwater from entering the cellar.

From the above list of requirements for correct arrangement basement, it can be seen that two out of five necessary conditions provides ventilation.

But in order for it to function effectively and create an optimal regime for storing food, you need to observe certain rules its installation.

The most elementary ventilation system is the air vents, which are installed in the basement on opposite sides of the house. They are suitable for basements small area with a ceiling height of no more than two meters. To prevent debris from getting into the cellar and rodents to crawl through, the holes are closed with a grate

Insufficient ventilation of the room leads to an increase in humidity and the formation of mold, excessive ventilation can cause excessive dryness of the basement, which will also adversely affect the safety of the crop.

Therefore, here you need to adhere to the rule of the golden mean, but in order to comply with it, it is important to do correct calculations, which depend on the size and characteristics of the room.

Image gallery

Air duct installation rules

To organize a supply and exhaust ventilation system, you will need it. To ensure uniform air circulation, pipes of the same diameter are used. It is allowed to install an exhaust pipe of a slightly larger section to accelerate the removal of stagnant air.

Air ducts are located at a considerable distance from each other in opposite walls of the room. In this way, maximum favorable conditions to ventilate the cellar.

It is desirable that along the route of the pipes, there should be as little as possible, and even better, there should be no owls, bends and turns.

The chimney is installed in one of the corners of the basement. Its lower end should be near the ceiling itself (approximately 1.5 m from the cellar floor) so that all warm air directed to the upper part of the room is completely removed outside.

The air duct passes through all the premises of the house and is led out to the roof at an elevation of one and a half meters above the ridge.

When air passes through the pipe, condensation accumulates, and in winter frost forms inside it. To avoid this, it is necessary to insulate the air duct located outside.

For this, a pipe is put on top bigger size, and any insulation fits into the resulting space.

The outlet is closed with a fine mesh. But best of all is on the pipe head, around which an artificial vacuum is created, which contributes to an increase in thrust.

The supply air duct is located in another corner of the cellar, its open end should rise above the basement floor by 40-50 cm. It is necessary that the opening of the supply pipe is one meter lower than the exhaust pipe. The pipe can be run through the house and make an exit to the roof of the building.

It should be borne in mind that the intake inlet on the roof must also be lower than the exhaust one, in this case, a large air pressure drop is created at the inlet and outlet, which increases traction and improves air flow. Therefore, the outer edge of the pipe is raised on the roof no higher than 20-25 cm.

Often when arranging a basement under residential building, supply air duct lead out through the basement into the hole made in the outer wall of the building.

Outside, a grill is put on the inlet pipe, which prevents dust and debris from entering the hole and does not allow rodents to get into the cellar.

Inside the basement, special dampers must be installed in each air duct, opening or closing of which regulates the intensity of air intake and outflow.

The supply pipe can be removed from the basement by installing it outside the house. In this case, the air duct opening is raised above the ground by about 80 cm.

Installation of a natural ventilation system

It is advisable to design and install the ventilation system at the stage of building a house. During this period, all work is much easier to carry out than to mount the air duct in a finished box.

However, this is not always possible, often the air duct is installed in an already finished structure.

If the ventilation is laid during the construction of the cellar, a recess is made in the ground for laying the exhaust duct. V brickwork a hole is left where the pipe is led out

If the ventilation is installed in a free-standing cellar, then a hole is made in its ceiling, where the exhaust pipe is led out. It is reinforced indoors and outdoors in accordance with the recommendations above.

When arranging ventilation of a cellar located under a residential building, the exhaust air duct must be installed in a place where the general ventilation duct passes through to the roof of the building.

On the opposite side of the basement, a hole is made in the ceiling or in the upper part of the wall to install the inlet. In a free-standing cellar, the pipe is led out to the roof below the level of the exhaust duct.

In the cellar under the residential building, the conclusion is made in outer wall buildings. Inside the basement, the pipe is lowered to a distance of 30-50 cm from the floor.

The exhaust duct of the basement located under the house, as a rule, is built into the general air duct, and the supply pipe is led out into the side wall

After installing the supply and exhaust air ducts, it is necessary to close their external openings, and install dampers inside the pipes. Condensation can accumulate in the outlet channel, even when insulated in severe frosts, therefore, it is recommended to install a water drain valve at the bottom of the pipe.

To check the operation of the ventilation system, a thin paper should be applied to the intake duct. If the air duct is working properly, the leaf will wobble.

Photo guide for installing the chimney

Let us consider a practically implemented option for enhancing the ventilation of the cellar by installing a high chimney.

According to the calculations performed earlier, such a solution will increase the hood, moreover, it will allow you to get out of the zone of wind back pressure created by neighboring buildings and trees. As planned, the pipe is installed on the ventilation duct:

Image gallery

When arranging various engineering communications Traditionally, ventilation pipes are installed on the roof. This approach has its own characteristics and requires careful adherence to the installation technology. In addition, pipes should be placed in accordance with the requirements of SNiP and other regulatory documents.

Features of the output of pipes for ventilation to the roof

Outlets through the roof are suitable for:

• ventilation of internal premises;
• installation of a sewer riser pipe;
• airing the attic space.

The ventilation pipe on the roof is positioned in such a way that the exhaust air can be easily evacuated. Moreover, its height and cross-sectional shape are determined by the operating conditions and the required performance.

The easiest way to lead a pipe through the roof is to run it through the ridge of the roof. This installation option is simple to install and carry out insulation work, but in this case, the rafter system should not have a ridge beam available.

For pitched roofs a reasonable solution would be to install a ventilation pipe near the ridge. In addition to the indicated advantages, such an arrangement does not require additional reinforcement and installation of a snow removal system, since it does not linger.

Possible terminal errors and their consequences

Usually, the construction of supply ducts and outlets for removing air masses is carried out during the construction of a house, taking into account the area of ​​the premises, the structure of the roof and the type of roofing material.

If work is carried out in an already constructed building, then it is necessary to plan in advance the location of the ventilation pipes in such a way as to cause minimal damage to the roof surface during their installation. Otherwise, the lathing and rafters may be damaged, as well as the tightness of the coating.

Errors in the installation of the outlets of ventilation pipes are fraught with consequences, including:

• penetration from the kitchen and bathrooms into living quarters with an ill-conceived combination of air ducts;
• ineffective removal of air from the kitchen if the exhaust pipe on the roof was installed in an unsuitable place;
• freezing ventilation ducts due to insufficient insulation.

The ventilation pipe installed on the roof must withstand significant wind loads, so you should not choose too thin products.

Devices for improving ventilation efficiency

To use wind energy in the device of natural ventilation, a ventilation pipe deflector is used, which is special attachment... It is installed on exhaust pipes or above exhaust openings, depending on the type of system.

The principle of operation of the deflector consists in the rarefaction of air masses, which occurs in its diffuser under the influence of wind force. The larger it is, the more efficiently the removal of air masses occurs. The deflector is installed during the installation of the ventilation outlet on the roof.

Roof pipe installation technology

Before constructing the outlet of the ventilation pipe, it is necessary to complete the installation of internal utilities and fix the air ducts. Scroll necessary tools depends on the type of roofing material and may include a chisel, metal shears, a drill and a jigsaw. In addition, you will need a building level to control the correct location of the ventilation pipe and a marker for marking.

Stages of installation of the passage assembly

It is more convenient to bring the pipe to the roof through the ceilings using finished structure node of the passage, which is installed as follows:

• determine the place of installation of the passage element on the roof, taking into account the peculiarities of its design and the requirements of SNiP;
• outline the contours where the pipe for ventilation will be located, and cut a hole in the roof required diameter choosing the tool and method depending on the material used;
• in the same way make holes in the waterproofing and;
• mark the position of the pass-through assembly according to the template and drill a number of holes for fastening self-tapping screws;
• clean the roof surface from dust, dirt and moisture;
• applied to the bottom surface sealing gasket a layer of sealant and place it in its intended place;
• a passage element is installed on the gasket and fixed with self-tapping screws;
• the ventilation pipe is inserted into the passage assembly, then the verticality of its location is checked and fixed with screws.

After installing the ventilation pipe on the roof, check the tightness of the base of the passage element: it must be pressed against the roof in such a way that excess sealant from under the structure gasket is eliminated. In addition, from the attic side, the air duct outlet to the roof should be sealed.

Additional devices

To protect the air ducts from the ingress of debris and atmospheric moisture, a cap is used on the ventilation pipe, which prevents it from clogging and increases its service life. It usually consists of the following parts:

• covers in the form of an umbrella that protects from precipitation;
• a drip used to drain water flowing from the top.

In addition, aerators can be installed on the roof, which provide air circulation between the thermal insulation layer and outer cover roofs. They are necessary if the length of the slope exceeds 3 m and natural traction is not enough. For the efficient functioning of the aerators, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of air flow and correct installation counter battens throughout the roof slope.

With the correct choice of the location of the outlet of the ventilation pipe on the roof, adherence to the technology of its installation and use additional devices it is enough to simply ensure the optimal movement of air masses in the system and create a comfortable microclimate in the room.

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Pipe on the roof and attic: types, functions, installation rules

What pipes do you think can be found on the roof and attic of an apartment or private house? Probably, the dear reader will remember only chimney and ventilation. Meanwhile the list possible options noticeably longer. I want to talk about the types of utilities that pass through the roof or are in close proximity to it in this article.

In the photo - the roof apartment building with outputs of ventilation ducts and sewerage.

Announce the entire list

The following are usually displayed through the roof:

• Pipes for removing combustion products from a furnace or boiler;

They are needed mainly solid fuel boilers with natural traction. For example, modern gas boilers are usually equipped with a coaxial (double) pipe that runs through the nearest outer wall. By inner pipe combustion products are removed, air is taken from the street outside for gas combustion.

• Ventilation terminals;
• Fan outlets of sewer risers.

Three more types of pipelines can be found in the attic:

• Heating supply filling. It is brought into the attic in so-called top-filling systems;

• Jumpers between the risers in the bottom filling system (when both the heating supply and return are divorced in the basement). Most often, these jumpers can be found in apartments on the upper floor, however, their location in the attic is more rational: in this case, starting the heating system and bleeding air from the paired risers does not require the presence and participation of residents;
• The same jumpers between the hot water risers.

Chimney

Functions

Functions chimney quite understandable: it allows you to take combustion products outside the house. The exit of the pipe through the roof prevents them from getting to windows and balconies.

Mounting

Key requirements for the design and installation of chimneys are set out in SNiP 41-01-2003. For the convenience of the reader, I will present them here.

A separate chimney is provided for each boiler or stove. The exception is two stoves located in the same apartment and on the same floor. They can use a common chimney.

I happened to live in a stalinka, which was designed for wood-burning cooking ovens... During its construction, the rule "one pipe - one stove" was not obligatory for the builders: the apartments were united along the riser by a common smoke channel on the kitchen.

The section of the pipe is determined by the heat output of the furnace. SNiP gives the following values:

For a round pipe, the internal cross-sectional area should not be less than that indicated for rectangular pipes.

The minimum height of the chimney from the grate of the furnace to the mouth is 5 meters. Less is not possible: in this case, the chimney will not have sufficient effective work traction.

An increase in draft reduces the efficiency of a stove or boiler, since combustion products leave the house without giving up all the heat. An excessive increase in the length of the chimney will mean an increase in heating costs.

The height of the pipe above the roof must be equal to or greater than the following values:

• For flat roof- 0.5 m;

If a parapet or ridge is located within one and a half meters from the chimney, the height is measured not from the surface of the roof, but from them.

• When located at a distance of 1.5 to 3 meters from the ridge pitched roof the part of the pipe protruding above it should not be lower than the ridge. The same restriction applies to the parapet;
• If the chimney is 3 or more meters away from the ridge, it should not be lower than a line drawn from the ridge down at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon.

The chimney material can be used:

• For a wood stove or boiler - clay brick, heat-resistant concrete, asbestos cement and a stainless steel sandwich pipe with non-combustible insulation between the walls. At the same time, the maximum permissible operating temperature is 300 C for asbestos cement and 500 for stainless steel;
• If coal is used as fuel, the pipe can only be made of brick or made of heat-resistant concrete.

The mouth of the pipe must be protected from precipitation, while the umbrella must not restrict the escape of smoke.

Pipe cutting on the roof or in the ceiling (thickening brick chimney, providing the required degree of thermal insulation) should be 70 mm thicker than the pie of the roof, slab or ceiling. If the chimney is laid in a solid wall or partition made of combustible material, the cutting is performed to the full height and thickness. The gap between the groove and the wall is filled non-combustible material(usually basalt wool).

How to run a pipe through a slate or profiled sheet roof?

It is produced between the rafters, at a distance of at least 15 cm from non-combustible load-bearing structures and at least 30 cm from combustible. A box is constructed around the chimney, which is sewn up from below with a sheet of galvanized iron lined with sheet asbestos. The box is filled with basalt wool or fine-grained expanded clay.

A hole is cut in the roofing material for the pipe. The slate is cut with a grinder with a stone or diamond disc, profiled sheet and metal tiles - with the same grinder, but with a metal disc.

How to bypass a pipe on a roof, making its connection to the roof airtight?

• From the pipe down the ramp under roofing material but on top waterproofing film a tie is laid - a galvanized sheet with a flange. Its upper edge is wound into a shallow groove in the chimney. At the bottom of the ramp, the tie opens into the gutter;
• Additional waterproofing of the pipe on the roof in the chimney along the perimeter of the chimney is performed with heat-resistant silicone sealant;
• Roofing material is laid on top of the tie with a minimum gap;
• The wall profile is installed last along the perimeter.

If the roof is made of soft material ( bituminous shingles or roofing material), it is laid with an overlap on the pipe. The top of the overlap is pressed metal bar, which sits on the sealant (preferably with the upper edge entering the groove).

When bypassing a round pipe, the general principles of waterproofing remain the same, only the shape of the tie and the abutment strip changes.

Ventilation

Functions

Ventilation ducts provide continuous renewal of indoor air. This is necessary for two reasons:

1. The oxygen content in the air of living quarters decreases as a result of breathing;
2. Air humidity increases due to the vital activity of people and pets, cleaning, washing, cooking, etc.

Condensation on windows is the first sign of insufficient ventilation.

V general case for residential premises, ventilation is calculated on the basis of air exchange of 3 cubic meters per hour per square of area. There are exceptions to this rule:

• In bathrooms and toilets, ventilation should allow 7 - 9 cubic meters per square meter area per hour;
• In the kitchen, the minimum ventilation capacity is 60 m3 / h in the presence of an electric stove or a 2-burner gas stove... An increase in the number of burners to three leads to an increase in the minimum productivity to 75 m3 / h, to four - to 90.

In the recent past, exhaust ventilation in apartment buildings worked only through kitchens, bathrooms and baths; in living rooms, the air was renewed only due to the inflow through the cracks window frames... Now projects include the presence of exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust ventilation in each room.

It is extremely simple to obtain the air flow through the ventilation ducts, which exactly corresponds to the calculated one: it is enough to install it in the premises exhaust fans appropriate performance.

SNiP 41-01-2003 prohibits the installation of forced exhaust ventilation without forced air flow in houses with stoves and natural draft boilers. Ventilation ducts should work only with natural urge - due to the difference in the density of hot and cold air. The instruction is associated with the danger of overturning the draft in the chimney when the air flow rate prevails over the inflow.

Mounting

To output ventilation to the roof, the following can be used:

• Asbestos-cement pipes;
• PVC ventilation pipes;
• Conventional sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 - 200 mm.

In addition, the outlet of the ventilation duct can be a concrete or brick superstructure on a flat roof.

Regardless of the material, the outlet of the ventilation duct is supplied with an umbrella - a deflector that protects it from precipitation. The deflector also increases traction in windy conditions.

The sealing and sealing of the ventilation outlet is carried out in the same ways as in the case of the chimney.

Faced with the problem of installing ventilation in the attic, I solved it like this:

• As a ventilation duct, a gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm was used, laid between the roof and the gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling;
• The ventilation was brought out not through the roof, but through one of the gables above the window. This made it possible to do without sealing the connection: the overhangs of the roof reliably protect it from precipitation;

The pipe behind the gable is installed with minimum slope away from him. Thus, I excluded the flow of water in the rain along the surface of the pipe.

• A compensating pipe was installed in the ventilation pipe opening duct fan... Its power supply is dimmed. The presence of a dimmer allows you to adjust the ventilation performance depending on the weather and requirements for the noise level;
• A tee is installed on the ventilation duct in front of the fan from the room side. Through one of the outlets, it takes air from the bathroom located in the middle of the attic, through the second - from the space between the suspended ceiling and the attic roof. Thus, continuous ventilation of this space is ensured;
• For sucking in air in the four corners of the attic in false ceiling ventilation grilles are installed.

Sewerage

Functions

Why do you need a sewer outlet to the roof?

In the sewer riser, a thrust is inevitably created: the moist air heated in contact with the drains rises up. If the riser is hermetically sealed from above, it will saturate the kitchens and bathrooms on the upper floors with the aromas of the sewage system. Of course, provided that the connections of plumbing fixtures to the sewer are leaking.

With a salvo discharge of water (for example, with the simultaneous flushing in two toilet bowls along the riser), the vacuum that occurs after the passage of the water front can disrupt the operation of the water locks in the siphons of plumbing fixtures. Then the smell of sewage will penetrate even those rooms in which all connections to the sewer are carefully sealed.

Free air exchange with the outside solves both problems: traction transports aromas Wastewater outside the house, and with a salvo discharge of water, the sewage system will be able to suck in air through the fan outlet.

Mounting

Sealing of pipe leads outside the roof is carried out in the same ways as in the case of ventilation.

One of the solutions to the waterproofing problem is to install a rubber cap on the sealant.

A few nuances:

• Up to four risers can be combined with a common fan outlet;
• The horizontal sections of the funnel must not have counter-slopes. The price of non-compliance with this rule is the accumulation of condensate in areas with a negative slope. Water filling the pipe will disrupt the normal operation of the ventilation of the risers;
• In a private house, a funnel outlet is installed at the top of the sewerage system. I have it mounted on a sewer pipe running along the facade of the house, transporting drains from attic floor to the septic tank.

Heating filling

Functions

What does the movement of the heating supply pouring into the attic give?

1. It is extremely simple to start the heating system. You just need to fill it, open both house valves in the elevator and bleed air from the expansion tank in the attic. For comparison: in the case of bottom filling, you need to bleed the air in the lintel between each pair of risers;
2. Uniform heating of all heating appliances on each floor. The drop in the temperature of the coolant as it moves from top to bottom is compensated by an increase in size.

The inconvenience lies only in a more complex discharge and start-up of a separate riser with your own hands: in the case of an overhead filling, it must be turned off both in the basement and in the attic.

Mounting

The filling unit is mounted with a constant slope along its entire length. At the top point is put expansion tank collecting air when the circuit starts up. Each riser is completed with:

• A valve that allows you to turn it off independently of the rest;
• Blanking plug. It will allow the riser to suck in air during discharge and prevent water from hanging in it.

Discharge of the riser from the filling. Instead of a plug, a relief valve is installed - a ball valve.

In ventilated attics and bottling, and above attic floor sections of risers are thermally insulated. As a rule, glass wool or mineral wool, rags and knitting wire are used for this purpose. Thermal insulation reduces both inappropriate heat loss and the likelihood of freezing of the circuit during short-term stops of circulation in winter cold.

Jumpers

Functions

Regardless of which risers are connected by jumpers - heating or hot water supply - jumpers perform the same function - they provide continuous circulation of water. Why is it needed in the heating system - I think there is no need to explain.

On hot water supply, jumpering two or more risers solves two problems at once:

• Provides almost instant hot water supply after opening the tap. In houses with dead-end distribution of risers DHW water it takes a long time to drain to heat it;
• Provides continuous operation of heated towel rails. In new buildings, they are mounted in the break of the riser, and not the hot water supply.

Mounting

There are more than few requirements for the installation of jumpers in the attic:

1. At the upper point of the jumper, an air vent is mounted (Mayevsky's valve or a conventional valve). It is needed to remove air plugs from the risers;
2. If there are brackets (bends in the vertical plane), the air vent is installed at the top point of each bracket;
3. The lintel is thermally insulated above the floor level.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, you can explore more information by watching the video in this article. I would be grateful for your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

August 2, 2016

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