How to make the roof insulation from the inside correctly - a step-by-step guide. Roof insulation from the inside: with a covered roof How to insulate a pitched roof from the inside

Well, of course, we are talking about how to insulate the roof of a private house. Because in private houses, they try to entrust the care of roof insulation to public utilities, so that they work out at least part of the money collected. In addition, if a person is looking for the topic of roof insulation, then, I believe, he wants to make a warm attic or attic in order to live there. Well, this is also a private issue.

The difference between the attic, attic and roof

Clarification 1. The attic floor (attic floor) is not a roof, so we will not touch it here, there are separate articles for it about the insulation of the concrete ceiling and about the insulation of the wooden floor.

The roof includes: rafters, lathing, roofing material. Conscientious people add waterproofing to the above - if the roofing material is made of steel (metal tiles, corrugated board). Here we are talking about the insulation of this structure. As you might guess, there is a roof even if there is no attic (the ceiling and the roof are one).

Clarification 2. There is a question: “how to properly insulate the attic?” or “how to insulate the attic?”. This is about the same thing, because the attic is also an attic, only a slightly different shape. And that's what this article is about. Read on.

Clarification 3. This article is only about roof insulation from the inside - from the side of the attic ... or what do you have there? Insulation over roofing material is not here.

Specification 4. It does not matter the material of the walls and the purpose of the building: a bathhouse, a house, a garage ... we insulate the roof in the same way as described below.

Attic roof device

It seems to be off topic of the article, but I’ll say a few words, if you don’t need it, skip it and read on. Although, in order for the entire roof structure to be "warm", the correct installation of the roof also plays a role. Well, for example, the insulation will get wet, because we were greedy for waterproofing, and then ... was it necessary to put insulation on the fig? If convinced - we read in a row.

For the installation of a roof, you just need to fulfill the requirements specified by the manufacturer of the material we have chosen. It is said abstrusely, but in reality everything is simple: it is necessary to arrange gaps for ventilation of the under-roof space, so that the insulation is dry. And such gaps are made very simply. A waterproofing material is attached over the rafters and we attach the slats to the rafters, as in the photo:

This is the counter-lattice, due to which we will get a gap for ventilation of the under-roof space. In the photo, the slats with a section of 25x50 mm are nailed to the rafters, if memory serves, 90 mm.

A crate is attached perpendicular to the counter-lattice:

Well, I didn’t insulate my attic, so for the full picture I’ll give you the following diagram:

Roof insulation materials

Here are the heaters that you may have been considering for the roof of your house: polystyrene foam, glass wool, mineral wool, ecowool, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam. A few words about the suitability of each for our task.

Important! From the above list, immediately remove the foam and all its relatives. Including polyurethane. Why? As a rule, the insulation is laid between the rafters. So, pay attention and remember: it is IMPOSSIBLE to stuff foam between the rafters! Steam does NOT pass through the foam, which means it will tend to pass through the wood of the rafters, which is why the rafters will rot and collapse. And now my favorite question: do you need it?

I foresee a cry "from the audience": "There is a vapor-permeable polyurethane (PU)!" Do you think you got it? No. This "thing" without normal ventilation will accumulate moisture in itself and then collapse from frost, turn into dust.

I would definitely insulate the roof of my house with "cotton" materials (mineral wool, glass wool, linen mats, etc.). First, they breathe. Secondly, for example, mice do not settle in glass wool.

Discussions on the topic. I came across a statement saying that problems need to be solved as they come. I like this: the smart one knows how to get out of trouble, the wise one knows how not to get into it. How does this relate to the topic? Yes, it’s very simple: I have been living in the village for several years and I know firsthand about the invasion of mice in the fall. I know where they can settle... And if they can, then they will settle, if conditions are created for that. So what the hell do they need to create these conditions with their own hands and for their own money, so that later they can think about how to evict them? Well, that's my approach, you think for yourself. By the way, since I started to be smart, I won’t limit myself to half measures. Some of my friends also have an adobe house. And they insulated its walls with foam from the inside ... knock-knock-knock, who lives in the little house? There is also a saying about this: the smart one learns from his own mistakes, the wise one learns from the mistakes of others, the fool does not learn at all. So let's drink for all of us to be ... (desired to substitute :)).

If you choose between glass wool and mineral wool to insulate the rafter system, then, again, I would choose glass wool. Because with the same thickness, it is 10 ... 15% warmer than basalt wool and cheaper.

You can use linen mats - for additional insulation from the inside, as detailed below.

Ecowool has a worse coefficient of thermal resistance, it also slips and is difficult to lay (this is if the roof slope is rather steep; but, perhaps, it will go on a roof with a small slope). Another disadvantage is that ecowool shrinks, "sits down". Well, and most importantly: if for some reason the roof leaks right up to the ecowool, then drying it out will be a problem.

Roof insulation methods

There are two ways to insulate an attic.

The first way to insulate the attic

After insulation in the first way, the “pie” of the roof of the house looks like this:

It consists of the following materials (from inside to outside):

Such insulation has the disadvantage that it leaves cold bridges along the rafters.

The second way to insulate the attic

To eliminate the disadvantage of the first method, it is enough to add another layer of insulation inside the room. I believe, having considered the two proposed drawings, you will understand what the trick is here:

Bars of 50x50 mm are stuffed perpendicular to the rafters, between which additional thermal insulation is laid, which will block the cold bridges along the rafters. The intersections of the bars with the rafters have a relatively small area, so that they can already be neglected.

Important! Take another look at the two pictures above. On the second, the vapor barrier is attached to the rafters, and the additional insulation is already on top of the vapor barrier. We do this if additional thermal insulation is made of natural material (NOT mineral wool, glass wool, etc.), for example, linen mats, etc. And after that, we fasten the sheathing (wood, plywood, drywall) without any additional vapor barrier, but closely with natural insulation. In the first picture, there is no vapor barrier yet, it will be on top of the additional insulation. This means that both the main and additional insulation are made of the same material (for example, glass wool). The reason is the lack of formaldehyde in mineral wool insulation, the penetration of which into the room must be stopped with a vapor barrier film. Do I need to say that for this the film must be intact?

Which of these two options is better? At the first time in the attic there will be a greenhouse effect and it will be stuffy, you need to take care of the ventilation system.

What are the common mistakes in roof insulation?

Possible errors when laying insulation are shown in the figure:

As it is now customary to say: "the interface is intuitive."

How to fix vapor barrier and waterproofing?

The vapor barrier is applied to the wall:

There are many films for vapor and waterproofing. For example, Tyvek:

This film has a good plus: it can be placed directly on the insulation. There must be a gap between all other films and the insulation. However, I have come across the statement that all modern membranes for vapor and waterproofing are diffusion (I don’t know what this means, I think it’s something very good), so you can put the insulation close to the membrane. So, when buying a vapor-waterproofing for a roof, be interested in the properties of what you are purchasing.

Important! Vapor barrier and waterproofing must not be damaged.

Everything else is simple: we attach the film to the rafters along the entire length of the roof slope. We start at the bottom. Then, if the slope is wider than the width of the film, the second row - with an overlap on the bottom, at least 15 cm. We glue the overlap with adhesive tape. I heard that there is bitumen tape, which is much more reliable than usual. But I have not yet found it in "their" markets; if you find it, buy it and enjoy it.

The waterproofing membrane should sag between the rafters by 20 millimeters. Such sagging creates a gutter for moisture to drain. At the same time, the slats of the counter-lattice will not get wet, and will not rot.

There are several different films - anti-condensation. They have a layer of fleecy material applied on one side. The condensate is held on the pile and does not drain onto the insulation. As you might guess, you need to fasten such a film with the fleecy side towards the insulation:

More. Let's say you bought a film not some kind of "fancy", with a pile or something else (I can't keep track of all the new products), but simply a film for vapor or waterproofing. Without any markings, inscriptions and instructions. Question: which side to mount it?

Answer: such a film has one surface that is completely smooth, and the second is rougher. For vapor barrier, we fix the film with the rough side towards the room, so that moisture, settling on the surface of the film, does not roll down to the floor in streams, but evaporates from under the skin. For waterproofing (i.e. outside), we fix the film with a smooth surface towards the street so that water flows freely over the film.

There is also a corrugated board or metal tile with an anti-condensate layer on the inside:

Moisture remains on this layer and evaporates from it. But a film membrane is still needed. Because, in addition to protecting the insulation from moisture, it is also a wind barrier: it reduces (or completely eliminates) the blowing of thermal insulation by the wind (you know, the wind blows the cotton wool and then blows the heat out of the room).

Question: Is it worth using foil material for vapor barrier? Will this be additional insulation, because the foil, it seems, should reflect heat into the room?

Answer: the foil will reflect only if we leave a gap between it and the skin. If the sheathing is close to the vapor barrier, then there will be no heat reflection, but only a better and more expensive vapor barrier.

More. There is such a new "thing" as an active smart vapor barrier membrane. It works like this: at high humidity in the room, the pores in this membrane close and do not let moisture into the insulation. And at low humidity - the pores open and moisture stretches from the insulation. Question: if the mineral wool insulation and its relatives, then why do we need such air? And if the insulation is natural, then no vapor barrier is needed at all. Conclusion: if in the store they try to give you this weight as "indispensable", then you just ... they try to give it to you.

In my opinion, what has been said is enough to be able to insulate the roof of the house with your own hands. It remains to put the theory into practice and get something that you can not buy for any money: experience. Good luck.

how to insulate a roof

From inside the house is often the only right decision.

What is the need for insulation?

Provided that thermal insulation work is carried out competently, a full-fledged living area can be created from a non-residential attic space, and the usable attic area will be a great addition to a cozy home.

You can not do without such a procedure in the case of installing a roof made of corrugated board or metal tiles, which provoke the formation of condensate and ice when temperatures fluctuate.

Internal thermal insulation work can be done with your own hands from different types of materials suitable for this purpose. The main task of insulation for the roof of a house is its ability to provide waterproofing from the outside and vapor permeability from the inside of the room.

Material selection

The most suitable materials for attic insulation are:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
polyurethane foam;
ecowool.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool and fibrous materials have excellent thermal insulation characteristics. They do an excellent job of removing water vapor from the roof. A special membrane film is responsible for the direction of condensate drainage from the inside to the outside.

In work, it is better to use mineral wool in the form of plates, since, unlike rolled wool, it keeps its shape perfectly and does not slide down an inclined plane. For a dwelling, a material with a thickness of 10 cm is required; for outbuildings, a three-centimeter insulation is enough.

When insulating the roof from the inside of the attic, mineral wool is cut into pieces of the required size with a margin of 2–3 cm. Before installing the insulation between the rafters, it is slightly compressed. After installation, it will straighten out and completely fill the required space.

If one of the sides of the material has a foil layer, then it is necessary to lay the mineral wool with a shiny surface inside the attic. If necessary, mineral wool can be replaced with glass wool.

Styrofoam

For a simple do-it-yourself method and cost savings, foam is suitable. The material slabs are light in weight, so you don't have to worry about excessive load on the roof structure. Among the disadvantages of polystyrene, one can note its poor vapor conductivity and attractiveness to rodents, which can cause significant damage to the attic thermal insulation.

polyurethane foam

The foamed material is sprayed onto the treated surface of any configuration and complexity. Such a process is carried out by using a special portable installation, which supplies the substance under pressure to a plane having any degree of inclination.

Its main advantage is that this method of insulating the attic or attic of the house allows you to create a dense monolithic layer without seams and gaps.

In addition, no additional vapor barrier device is required to protect the decorative finish from condensate. The price of polyurethane foam is higher than that of alternative insulating materials.

The material is produced in a compressed form and requires loosening before laying. In most cases, blowing equipment is used for fluffing and applying ecowool.

Ecowool is distinguished by increased adhesive properties, therefore it can be applied as a heater for the roof of a house in a wet or dry way on any surface. Like polyurethane foam, ecowool lays down in an even, seamless layer and does not require the installation of a vapor barrier material.

If everything is clear with the laying of ecowool and polyurethane foam and their application does not require additional arrangement of auxiliary structures, then a similar process for roll or panel insulation is associated with certain technological rules.

Layered insulation

Doing the inside of the house with your own hands requires following a certain sequence. Such a construction of various materials is called a "pie" because of its multi-layered structure.

Providing moisture removal is necessary not only to create comfortable climatic conditions indoors. This condition is set to protect fibrous insulation from getting wet and, as a result, the loss of their quality indicators.

Waterproofing

Roof insulation should begin with laying a layer of waterproofing (roofing material). The material is installed in a perpendicular position relative to the rafter legs with a smooth surface upwards, while it does not stretch, but slightly sags.

The joints of the sheets are glued with construction tape to seal gaps and crevices. Laths of beams are nailed to the rafter legs, and a crate of boards is mounted on them. A layer of roofing is laid on top of the board. This method is suitable for use at the stage of installing a roof on the roof of a building.

In the case of a finished roof, the waterproofing is fixed with a stapler under the rafters and the attachment points are glued with adhesive tape. In this case, the rafters must be treated with antiseptic preparations that prevent the process of decay.

Thermal insulation

On top of the waterproofing material between the rafters, a heater is tightly laid, previously cut into pieces of the required size. If the desired thickness of the insulation is to be achieved by laying several layers of mineral wool, its top and bottom joints must not coincide (the top mats must be moved or placed perpendicularly).

vapor barrier

On top of the sheets of insulation, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier film sheet, directing its smooth surface towards the mineral wool.

The perforated side of the film absorbs moisture evaporation, so it should be located towards the attic room.

The canvas is fastened with a mounting stapler and glued at the joints. The level of humidity inside the house depends on the correct laying of the vapor barrier material, so its installation must be treated with special attention.

Facing

The final stage in the internal insulation of the roof is the installation of decorative trim. In the case of installing a wooden lining, a profile is attached to the rafters, which serves as the basis for future cladding.

If the attic space will not be used as a living space and does not require decorative finishing, a cut board with a gap of 10 cm can be nailed over the vapor barrier layer.

Country living in a private house has ceased to be the prerogative of a single number of citizens. Individual construction of dwellings is developing rapidly, and people have to solve issues of improvement, in particular, with insulation. It is quite easy to insulate walls from heat leakage, but it is much more difficult to properly insulate the roof of a house. However, we are solving the issue - it is enough to carefully approach the choice of material and competently carry out thermal insulation work with your own hands.

Depending on the side of the roof from which the insulation is laid, there are two methods of thermal insulation:

from the inside (otherwise called the "principle of a false ceiling");
outside ("rolling ceiling principle").

Most often, residents have to insulate the top of the house in the first way, since most moves to a new place of residence occur during the warm season. When the first frosts begin, the problem makes itself felt. This is due to the arrangement of houses - a large amount of heat leaves the room not only through doors and windows, but also through the roof. To minimize losses without dismantling the roof, the thermal insulation of the roof is made from inside the house.

Features of the choice of materials

The urgency of the problem is established; now you need to choose the right material. The question of saving money should not be brought to the fore here. It is better to take into account three important factors, information about which is usually indicated on the packaging:

thermal conductivity of the insulating material (the value should be minimal; optimally - up to 0.04 W / m ⁰С);
resistance to mechanical and climatic influences, which, in turn, depend on the region of residence;
the weight of the insulation (the heavier it is, the greater the load on the roof elements, and this is undesirable).

To achieve the desired effect, it is recommended to choose a sufficiently soft and elastic material so that it fills the free space between the rafters. You will also need vapor and waterproofing. The best materials to prevent moisture from entering the insulation are:

roofing material;
glassine;
polyethylene film;
special vapor barrier membrane.

It is necessary to take into account the features of the area; if precipitation is often observed, it is worth choosing a denser material to insulate the roof from the inside.

There are several ways to ensure the proper quality of thermal insulation. The most common are:

glass wool installation;
internal lining with mineral wool boards;
installation of polystyrene panels;
pouring PPU (polyurethane foam).

The most expensive is the last method of insulation. Also, polyurethane foam is not advised to be applied in the cold season, and when foaming the roof with it, ensure sufficient ventilation. If the tenants nevertheless decide to insulate the roof from the inside with their own hands using this material, they will have to take into account the rapid increase in its volume, followed by solidification.

Implementing any of the first three methods (listed above) is much easier, and the work can be reduced to several stages, presented below. This applies to both types of roofs (flat or pitched), however, due to the popularity of the latter, the process will be considered for them.

Preparing the roof for insulation

Do-it-yourself direct thermal insulation of the roof should be preceded by the following steps:

inspection of the truss structure, replacement of rotten or deformed elements with new ones;
treatment of the inner surface of the roof with an antiseptic to prevent the formation of mold and anti-corrosion liquid so that metal parts do not rust;
analysis of the state of water supply, heating, communications, electricity and other networks, if they pass under the rafters.

Insulation is selected according to the distance between adjacent rafters. If its width is less than this value, gaps or cold bridges will appear, and the effectiveness of thermal insulation will decrease. Because of such an unreliable roof device, all the work will go down the drain.

Work with wet insulation is excluded. It should lie down for 2-3 days in a dry, ventilated room with low humidity. Especially for mineral wool - when interacting with moisture, its insulating properties are almost halved.

Required tools

In addition to the waterproofing and insulation, for comfortable work, you need to stock up on the following equipment:

construction stapler;
nails (preferably up to 50 mm long);
clerical / ordinary knife (for cutting the insulator);
fishing line or slats (for fixing the insulation).

If the room under the roof becomes residential, most likely it will be sheathed with wood or drywall for wallpapering. It is advisable to perform the operation 2-3 days after the insulation work, as the insulation material will expand slightly, taking up additional space. After preparing the necessary time to study the question of how to insulate the roof with your own hands, and implement your plan.

The sequence of work on the roof sheathing from the inside

If the residents of a private house decide to do all the work with their own hands, it is important for them to adhere to the following sequential steps:

The distance between the rafters is measured. The insulating material is cut to a width of 1-2 cm more than the measured one.
In the absence of waterproofing, it must be installed. It should envelop the rafters completely and is attached to them with stapler brackets. When fixing the roofing material (or other waterproofing agent) in the spans, it is fixed to the crate on which the roof lies.
The arrangement of rafters and other elements is such that it allows providing for the output of insulation under the overhang of the upper part of the house. There will be no layer between the insulation and the roofing material (polyethylene, membrane, etc.), so the moisture will be removed in a timely manner.
After installing the waterproofing material along the edges of the rafters at a distance of 3-4 cm from it, nails are driven in 10 cm apart. A cord (fishing line) is stretched between them, creating a small air barrier to drain liquid.
Next, the nails are nailed to the edge of the rafters, if the material placed between them is fixed with a fishing line. Nails are not required when installing the lathing from the bars.
The insulation is placed in the grooves between the rafters with a slight contraction. Then it will straighten out, optimally filling the space. It is advisable to make two layers of insulation, while the joints of the first layer should not coincide with the joints of the second.
A fishing line is stretched over the heat-insulating material or a crate is nailed. There must be at least 30 cm between parallel horizontal sections.
A vapor barrier is attached over the insulation with a stapler. It is overlapped (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with adhesive tape. If the room will be used for living, it will be necessary to finish the inside with chipboard, clapboard, drywall. It is desirable to maintain a gap between the sheathing material and the vapor barrier; for this it is necessary to fix the latter not with a stapler, but with planks.

Features of flat roof insulation

The device of single or gable roofs removes more moisture compared to almost horizontal counterparts. For good insulation of the flat top of a residential building, a bulk layer is added, which is a mixture of cement, sand and expanded clay. It is located above the waterproofing, that is, it acts closest to the roof. The bulk mixture makes the structure heavier, but only such a “layer cake” device guarantees decent thermal insulation of a flat roof.

This instruction gives an exhaustive answer to the question of how to insulate the roof with your own hands quickly and conveniently. The whole process takes a little time, but requires a responsible approach at each stage, especially when choosing a material.

Following the presented plan is doubly comfortable - the upper floor of the premises will be insulated from the inside, and the roof will remain intact. Obviously, even with your own hands you can get a durable warm roof without using the services of repair teams.

Or flat, make up almost a third of their total number. Having carried out a set of measures to install a thermal barrier, you can not only reduce heating costs, but also get additional living space, which the attic turns into after work is completed.

Competently carried out measures increase the service life of the entire roof structure and create the microclimate necessary for life. The correct roof structure necessarily includes the following elements:

roofing covered;
rafters;
crate;
counterlattice;
vapor barrier;
waterproofing;
insulation;
space for ventilation.

To understand houses from the inside, it is first desirable to understand the basic physical processes that occur inside the roof structure, as well as to understand the influence of the main natural forces that it has to face daily.

atmospheric effect

Any roof throughout the year is affected by many climatic factors that require the use of protective measures. These include:

ambient air temperature fluctuating throughout the year and leading to heating or cooling of the coating;
precipitation in the form of rain, to which the roof is especially susceptible for almost the entire year;
precipitation in the form of snow, which creates an additional load on the roof;
wind effect, which implies reliable fixation of the coating to the structure.

Thus, the main task of the roof of the house is to create reliable protection against these influences and maintain comfortable living conditions indoors, which are characterized by a stable temperature and humidity level.

Physical processes inside the roof

The constant difference in temperature inside and outside the room leads to continuous physical processes that are of fundamental importance for understanding how to insulate the roof of a house from the inside. These include:

heat exchange resulting from the difference in temperatures outside and inside the house and leading to heat loss through the roof, which is prevented by the located insulation;
moisture exchange, which is a consequence of human activity (from breathing to cooking), as a result of which warm air, liquids, rises, and is prevented by the located insulation and a special gap for ventilation.

The value of physical processes in home insulation

Properly located insulation with any temperature differences has a temperature on the outer surface only a few degrees higher than on the street.

The use of a vapor barrier and a gap for ventilation prevent the accumulation of condensate formed after steam cooling in the insulation, and prevents not only its damage, but also the safety of the entire roof structure.

A good example of how to properly insulate from the inside can be seen if you look at the roof in houses after snow has fallen. If it is completely or partially absent, icicles hang around the perimeter, which means that the work was carried out in violation of the rules. This is due to increased heat transfer, as a result of which the roof of the house is heated by hot air. coming from the room, and, as a result, the snow melts.

The sequence of work

Before insulating the roof of the house from the inside, as in any work, it is necessary to prepare a plan, draw up an estimate and prepare the inner surface of the roof.

The plan includes carrying out the main stages, a list of the necessary tools and measuring the roof area. In addition to laying insulation, it is necessary to provide for finishing sheathing, communications (for example, electricity), installation of windows or doors. This will turn the attic into a full-fledged living space.

After the measurements, an estimate is prepared and material is purchased, usually with a margin of about 15%. The choice of material and its thickness occupy a key place in the whole process, so it can be separated into a separate stage.

There is nothing difficult in doing the entire amount of work on your own, no. But to reduce the risk of errors, it is recommended that you carefully read the steps and tips below before you insulate the roof of the house from the inside with your own hands.

The work is carried out in the following order:

surface preparation and choice of insulation;
installation of ventilation gap and waterproofing;
installation of a heater;
installation of vapor barrier;
installation of the finish coat.

Surface preparation and insulator selection

Before work begins, the roof structure must be inspected for damage, deterioration or other defects. Violations must be corrected, damaged elements replaced, wooden surfaces treated with impregnations or varnishes. These actions will protect the structure and eliminate the need to dismantle future layers of thermal protection for repairs.

The most common materials used for insulation today are:

mineral wool, in rolls or mats;
Styrofoam;
expanded polystyrene.

They meet the basic requirements for insulation: safety, lightness, poor thermal conductivity and durability. The use of glass wool indoors is not recommended. It is inconvenient to lay, and microparticles adversely affect health.

The minimum thickness of the insulator used almost everywhere is 150 mm. In most cases, this meets the requirements of building codes.

The choice of material is influenced by the shape of the roof. For small spaces with limited floor space, laying rolls or mats can be difficult. In such a situation, there is only one way out - how to insulate the roof of the house from the inside - with foam or polyurethane foam. They are sprayed with a special pump, usually in several layers. But in this case, the help of specialists with professional equipment is needed.

Installation of ventilation gap and waterproofing

The space for ventilation of the insulation prevents it from getting wet and spoiled, which inevitably leads to the loss of protective properties. The minimum distance that must separate it from the roof surface is 20 mm. This allows excess moist air, which still passes from the room through the insulator, to be freely removed from the surface of the insulation.

The simplest waterproofing, still widely used in construction, is ordinary roofing material. But to create more effective protection, it is desirable to use a special canvas with vapor permeability. The best option is diffusion, rather than conventional membranes. In this case, only one ventilated gap is sufficient. For the usual version, you need two of them:

between the insulation and the waterproofing sheet;
between insulation and roof covering.

These measures are the result of continuous physical processes taking place under the roof. But, for example, before insulating the roof of the house from the inside with polystyrene foam, these actions are not performed, since this material does not absorb moisture, which makes it possible to neglect waterproofing and ventilation gaps.

The insulation is laid with its smooth side towards the roof on specially fixed bars with an overlap of at least 100 mm, perpendicular to the rafters, after which it is fixed with staples or nails. During laying, a slight overhang is made to reduce the risk of damage during the installation of insulation. The joints are sealed with adhesive tape. Waterproofing should completely cover the rafters.

Insulation installation

The most crucial stage in the workflow is “how to insulate the roof of a house from the inside”. Depending on the material chosen, there are some subtleties of working with it. But the principles apply to all types without exception.

The width of the insulation should be 10 or 20 mm larger than the opening where it fits. The standard rafter pitch is 600 mm, which corresponds to or a multiple of the size of most heaters.

Fastening is carried out due to the dense structure of the insulation and the gap in size. But in addition, it can be fastened with thin rails or a cord laid between nails or self-tapping screws screwed into the rafters.

Styrofoam sheets and cotton wool should completely fill all the free space. One of the laying options is the installation of insulation in two layers. In this case, the second is installed so as to completely overlap the joints of the previous one.

Vapor barrier installation

After the installation of the insulating material is completed, it is imperative to fix the vapor barrier. The rough side is installed inside the room, as it absorbs steam, the smooth side is installed towards the insulation. As with the installation of waterproofing, two points are important here:

installation with the right side to the insulation, otherwise the effect will be completely opposite;
fixing all joints with double-sided tape.

Fastening is done with brackets to the rafters. A crate is sewn over the insulation to secure the future finish. To do this, you can use any finishing material: plastic, wood or drywall.

To understand the individual stages of the process, how to insulate the roof of the house from the inside, the photos located at the beginning of the article and below will help with this.

Features of insulation of different buildings

Despite the fact that the main technological process is typical for the insulation of different types of roof structures, the use of each material has its own characteristics. For example, until now there is no unequivocal majority of adherents on the question of how to insulate the roof of a house from the inside - with foam plastic or cotton wool. Each material has its pros and cons.

In houses with allows you to get a full-fledged living space where you can live. Not needing a warm attic would probably keep the process to a minimum if done with the floor first.

For most flat, it is considered the best option to start insulation work first from the outside. And only if there is no effect, start work inside.

If we consider the process of how to insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, then its main feature is the careful treatment of surfaces with protective impregnations or varnishes, and the minimum weight of the insulation.

If the work is carried out independently, it is advisable to always follow the main rules:

eliminate roof defects, and not mask them;
carefully handle wooden surfaces, especially rafters;
only work together.

Despite the simplicity, it is possible that these rules will become the determining factors in the durability of the roof of a residential building.

When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated to prevent the loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and install it, observing the technology.

Empirically and by calculations, it has long been established that heat losses occur through each element of the house structure. For example, from 20 to 30% of heat escapes through the attic floor and roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for its burning was wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality insulation of the house, you can save all subsequent years on its heating.

It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many homeowners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, the thermal insulation of the roof at different times of the year is capable of performing three functions:

- in winter, it keeps the heat in the house;

- in the summer it does not allow the attic space to heat up, which means that it will be cool in the house;

- in addition, the insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.

Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.

You may be interested in information on how liquid insulation is produced

Types of insulation for roof construction

The choice of insulation must also be made with skill, providing for the technical and operational characteristics of the material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following of them:

Low thermal conductivity.
Increased moisture resistance.
Low flammability.
Ecological cleanliness.
Material durability.

The materials used to insulate the roof and attic floor from the inside include:

Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
Ecowool made on a cellulose basis.
Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene).
Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
Expanded clay of different fractions (floor insulation).

In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves were traditionally used. Some builders still use these heaters today, but they require special treatment, since they are not moisture resistant, which means that putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.

All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively light in weight, therefore they will slightly weigh down the rafter and overlapping structure.

This table shows the main characteristics of the most popular heaters today:

Material parameters	materials	Thickness, mm
		50	60	80	100	120	150	200	250
Density, kg / m³	Mineral wool	100-120
	Styrofoam	25-35
	polyurethane foam	54-55
Thermal resistance, (m²°K)/W	Mineral wool	1.19	1.43	1.9	2.38	2.86	3.57	4.76	5.95
	Styrofoam	1.35	1.62	2.16	2.7	3.24	4.05	5.41	6.76
	polyurethane foam	1.85	2.22	2.96	3.7	4.44	5.56	7.41	9.26
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m×°K)	Mineral wool	0,038-0,052
	Styrofoam	0.037
	polyurethane foam	0.027
Weight 1 m², kg	Mineral wool	15.2	15.8	17.6	20.9	23.2	26.7	32.4	38.2
	Styrofoam	9.8	10	10.5	11	11.5	12.3	13.5	14.8
	polyurethane foam	11.2	11.7	12.8	13.9	15	16.6	19.3	22

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is most often used to insulate the roof structure, since this material is easy to install and is well suited in terms of its parameters for thermal insulation of the attic rooms of a wooden house.

One of the most convenient materials is mineral wool.

Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat. And to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its type:

Slag wool is made from blast-furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick and 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for attic insulation, so you should not be deceived by its low cost, since insulation will have to be re-insulated in a couple of years.

Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture well and, having been saturated with it, it settles and loses its heat-insulating qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified G4. This insulation withstands a temperature of only 300–320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.

The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W/m×°K, which is much lower than the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you can notice that the slag fibers are quite fragile, brittle and prickly. Therefore, for residential premises it is best not to use this type of mineral wool.

Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and cullet. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The chaotic arrangement of the fibers contributes to the airiness and increase the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.

Advanced modern glass wool is designed on the for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag wool. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W/m×°K.

Glass wool is widely used for insulation of stone buildings, it is also well suited for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated the attic version of the under-roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.

Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and prickly, they easily penetrate the fabric, can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, when starting installation work, you should protect yourself with protective equipment by wearing a thick fabric suit, special goggles, a respirator and gloves.

Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt breeds. The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W / m × ° K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.

It is much easier to work with stone wool, since its fibers are not so brittle and prickly, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, and their length is from 3 to 5 mm. They are located randomly and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is quite resistant to mechanical damage.

Prices for basalt wool

basalt wool

In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and well tolerates the destructive influence of the external environment.

All types of mineral wool for surface insulation are available in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today, in hardware stores, you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, as foil reflects and retains heat indoors.

The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber-binding substance, which is very often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any type of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.

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Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for home insulation, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was thoroughly insulated, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a snug fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using foam, since it does not have the proper flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other heaters, including sprayed polyurethane foam.

Slabs of conventional Styrofoam - Styrofoam (left), and extruded

Styrofoam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W / (m × ° K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.

moisture absorption conventional foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.

Styrofoam prices

polystyrene foam

The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, while simultaneously creating thick smoke. The smoke emanating from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.

Therefore, choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and to protect the house as much as possible from possible emergencies. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of the wiring and proper installation of chimney channels (pipes).

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is applied to roofing and overlapping structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can have a sufficiently large thickness. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulation layer will be completely sealed. Solidifying and expanding, the insulation acquires a high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / (m × ° K), with moisture absorption not more than 0.2% of the total volume of the material. And this means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.

The sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in fitting the finished coating to the level of the truss system for further finishing or roofing work.

Using this material, you can refuse waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it perfectly copes with the whole complex of problems, without retaining steam and not letting moisture into the room.

Polyurethane foam is sprayed on any surface: horizontal, vertical or sloped, as it has high adhesion with all building materials.

Ecowool

Ecowool is made from small particles of cellulose. Laying of this material can be carried out in a "dry" and "wet" way.

Environmentally friendly material - ecowool

In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. This method will not work on walls and roof structures.
For the "wet" installation method, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives, and then distributed under pressure through a pipe to ceilings and walls.

"Wet" laying of ecowool

Another option for warming with ecowool is to fill the space between the rafter legs, after fixing finishing material on them, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulating materials, and these include the following:

This is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit any harmful fumes into the environment.
Ecowool is able to “preserve” surfaces, preventing fungal and putrefactive formations from developing.
If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulation layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or the already laid material can be compacted.
The installation of insulation is carried out quickly enough.
Ecowool has a long service life without losing the original thermal insulation qualities.
Cellulose insulation material is necessarily treated with fire retardants, therefore, it has a very low combustibility and a tendency to self-extinguishing. In addition, ecowool does not produce smoke, and even more so, it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
Ecowool, applied to any surface, forms a seamless hermetic coating of the required thickness.
The insulation is a "breathable" material, so moisture does not linger in it.
The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.

The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below and discussed below.

Material parameters	Expanded clay gravel	Ecowool (cellulose)
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m°K)	0,016-0,018	0,038-0,041
Density, kg / m³	200-400	42-75
Density of contact with the structure	Depending on the faction:	Tight fit, well clogs all the cracks and cracks
	- 15-20 mm - the presence of voids;
	- 5-10 mm - snug fit.
Linear shrinkage	missing
Vapor permeability mg/Pa×m×h	0.3	0.67
Chemical inertness	neutral
combustibility	incombustible	G1-G2 (low combustible material, as it is treated with flame retardants
Moisture absorption,% by weight	10-25	14-16

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is very often used for warming the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system with expanded clay thermally insulate difficult, but filling it between floor beams on pre-prepared surfaces will not be difficult.

This material is made from specially prepared clay, undergoing high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is made in four fractions, starting from expanded clay sand and ending with large elements of 20 ÷ 30 mm in size.

Fraction, mm	Bulk density, kg/m³	Total material density, kg/m³	Compressive strength MPa
1 - 4	400	800 - 1200	2,0 - 3,0
4 - 10	335 - 350	550 - 800	1,2 - 1,4
10 - 30	200 - 250	450 - 650	0,9 - 1,1

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

The advantages of this material:

Ecological cleanliness. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not emit toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
Expanded clay is a non-combustible material, which is a very important quality for a wooden structure. This insulation is used to isolate chimney pipes from wooden floors, filling it into a box built around them.
Another important advantage of this material is that domestic rodents do not tolerate it. If the house is on a suburban area, then even mice can settle in it even in the attic, and some heaters create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!

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Supporting materials

In addition to heat-insulating materials, a waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier film is used in the insulation "pie".

Waterproofing is necessary in order to protect condensate heater, can be collected between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from the air from getting directly onto the insulation, as well as into the attic.

This membrane must have steam-permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.

If the insulation is carried out in an already assembled structure and it is not planned to change the roofing material, under which the waterproofing membrane should be, then sprayed polyurethane foam will have to be used for insulation - it does not require wind protection, and it can be sprayed on on the a reliable basis from boards or directly on a roof covering.

When insulating the roof slopes, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. Vapor barrier is designed to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the truss system from the penetration of moisture from the inside.

As you know, excessive moisture that has fallen on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as an unpleasant odor that will eventually pass into living rooms.

If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film must be fixed under the wall decoration.

When insulating the ceiling, the vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, as it should retain heat in the underlying rooms and prevent wet vapor from them from entering the heat-insulating layer.

The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the ceiling, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected inside the attic or towards the living rooms and does not go outside. Between themselves, the canvases are glued with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.

If you want to save money, you can use the old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the gaps between the boards of the attic floor, as well as their joints with the beams, are well smeared with a paste made from lime and clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the floor, but also protect the wood from the appearance of pests, and also allow the insulation layers to “breathe”.

When lime or clay dries well, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses have long been insulated with sawdust - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave the composition elasticity. In addition to sawdust, other natural materials were also used for insulation, which were dried and laid between the floor beams.

This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save quite a decent amount. But all such work is very laborious and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.

Those home owners who they want the work to go faster, they use modern materials.

How to calculate the required thickness of insulation?

It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation, based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for to create comfortable conditions in the room, in order to avoid overpayment for excess material.

Rasche T t of the required thickness of insulation is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003" Thermal protection of buildings"and the Code of Rules SP 23 - 101-2004" Design thermal protection of buildings". They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some allowable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:

δut= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λut

We begin to understand the values \u200b\u200bin the formula:

δut- this is the desired parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
R- the required tabular value of thermal resistance (m² × ° WITH/W) insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a well-designed heating system, maintaining a comfortable temperature of + 19 ° in the room. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the importance R for walls, ceilings and coverings.

When calculating the insulation for the roof, the value “for coatings” is taken, for the attic floor - “for floors”.

δ nand λn— the values of the thickness of the material layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.

The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multilayer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each of the layers, from 1 before n. For example, a roofing "pie" would consist of a solid plywood batten over rafters with a tar paper on top. Below is a layer of insulation to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be hemmed with natural wooden clapboard. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing material.

Important - only those outer layers that fit snugly against each other are considered. For example, flat slate can be taken into account, but wavy - no longer. If the roof structure assumes a ventilated roof, then all layers above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.

Where to get values? Measure the thickness of each of the layers ( δ n) – will not be labor. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not specified in the technical documentation of the material, can be taken from the table below:

Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials
Material	Density of materials in a dry state, kg/m3	Design coefficients under various operating conditions
		ω		λ		μ
		A	B	A	B	A, B
λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg/(m h Pa)
A. Polymer
Styrofoam	150	1	5	0.052	0.06	0.05
Also	100	2	10	0.041	0.052	0.05
Also	40	2	10	0.041	0.05	0.05
Extruded polystyrene foam	25	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Also	28	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Also	33	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.013
Also	35	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.005
Also	45	2	10	0.031	0.031	0.005
Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1	125	2	10	0.06	0.064	0.23
Also	100 or less	2	10	0.05	0.052	0.23
polyurethane foam	80	2	5	0.05	0.05	0.05
Also	60	2	5	0.041	0.041	0.05
Also	40	2	5	0.04	0.04	0.05
perlitoplastconcrete	200	2	3	0.052	0.06	0.008
Also	100	2	3	0.041	0.05	0.008
Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber Aeroflex	80	5	15	0.04	0.054	0.003
Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35	35	2	3	0.029	0.03	0.018
Also. type 45	45	2	3	0.031	0.032	0.015
B. Mineral wool, fiberglass
Mineral wool mats	125	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.3
Also	100	2	5	0.061	0.067	0.49
Also	75	2	5	0.058	0.064	0.49
Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder	225	2	5	0.072	0.082	0.49
Also	175	2	5	0.066	0.076	0.49
Also	125	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.49
Also	75	2	5	0.058	0.064	0.53
Soft, semi-rigid and rigid mineral wool slabs on synthetic and bituminous binders	250	2	5	0.082	0.085	0.41
Also	225	2	5	0.079	0.084	0.41
Also	200	2	5	0.076	0.08	0.49
Also	150	2	5	0.068	0.073	0.49
Also	125	2	5	0.064	0.069	0.49
Also	100	2	5	0.06	0.065	0.56
Also	75	2	5	0.056	0.063	0.6
Mineral wool boards of increased rigidity on an organophosphate binder	200	1	2	0.07	0.076	0.45
Semi-rigid mineral wool boards on a starch binder	200	2	5	0.076	0.08	0.38
Also	125	2	5	0.06	0.064	0.38
Glass staple fiber slabs with synthetic binder	45	2	5	0.06	0.064	0.6
Mats and strips of glass fiber stitched	150	2	5	0.064	0.07	0.53
URSA Glass Staple Fiber Mats	25	2	5	0.043	0.05	0.61
Also	17	2	5	0.046	0.053	0.66
Also	15	2	5	0.048	0.053	0.68
Also	11	2	5	0.05	0.055	0.7
URSA Glass Staple Fiber Boards	85	2	5	0.046	0.05	0.5
Also	75	2	5	0.042	0.047	0.5
Also	60	2	5	0.04	0.045	0.51
Also	45	2	5	0.041	0.045	0.51
Also	35	2	5	0.041	0.046	0.52
Also	30	2	5	0.042	0.046	0.52
Also	20	2	5	0.043	0.048	0.53
Also	17 .	2	5	0.047	0.053	0.54
Also	15	2	5	0.049	0.055	0.55
B. Slabs made from natural organic and inorganic materials
Wood fiber boards and chipboards	1000	10	12	0.23	0.29	0.12
Also	800	10	12	0.19	0.23	0.12
Also	600	10	12	0.13	0.16	0.13
Also	400	10	12	0.11	0.13	0.19
Also	200	10	12	0.07	0.08	0.24
Fiberboard slabs and wood concrete on Portland cement	500	10	15	0.15	0.19	0.11
Also	450	10	15	0.135	0.17	0.11
Also	400	10	15	0.13	0.16	0.26
Reed slabs	300	10	15	0.09	0.14	0.45
Also	200	10	15	0.07	0.09	0.49
Heat-insulating peat slabs	300	15	20	0.07	0.08	0.19
Also	200	15	20	0.06	0.064	0.49
Plaster boards	1350	4	6	0.5	0.56	0.098
Also	1100	4	6	0.35	0.41	0.11
Gypsum sheathing sheets (gypsum board)	1050	4	6	0.34	0.36	0.075
Also	800	4	6	0.19	0.21	0.075
G. backfill
Expanded clay gravel	600	2	3	0.17	0.19	0.23
Also	500	2	3	0.15	0.165	0.23
Also	450	2	3	0.14	0.155	0.235
Also	400	2	3	0.13	0.145	0.24
Also	350	2	3	0.125	0.14	0.245
Also	300	2	3	0.12	0.13	0.25
Also	250	2	3	0.11	0.12	0.26
E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials
Pine and spruce across the grain	500	15	20	0.14	0.18	0.06
Pine and spruce along the grain	500	15	20	0.29	0.35	0.32
Oak across the grain	700	10	15	0.18	0.23	0.05
Oak along the grain	700	10	15	0.35	0.41	0.3
Plywood	600	10	13	0.15	0.18	0.02
Facing cardboard	1000	5	10	0.21	0.23	0.06
Multilayer construction cardboard	650	6	12	0.15	0.18	0.083
E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials
- Asbestos-cement
Asbestos-cement flat sheets	1800	2	3	0.47	0.52	0.03
Also	1600	2	3	0.35	0.41	0.03
- Bituminous
Bitumen oil construction and roofing	1400	0	0	0.27	0.27	0.008
Also	1200	0	0	0.22	0.22	0.008
Also	1000	0	0	0.17	0.17	0.008
asphalt concrete	2100	0	0	1.05	1.05	0.008
Products from expanded perlite on a bituminous binder	400	1	2	0.12	0.13	0.04
Also	300	1	2	0.09	0.099	0.04

Note that there are two values given for materials λ n– for operating modes A or B . These regimes provide for the peculiarities of the humidity regime - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.

To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone according to the map-scheme - wet, normal or dry.

Then, comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, according to which and choose the value λ n.

Humidity conditions of the premises	Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zones (according to the map-scheme)
	dry zone	normal zone	wet zone
Dry	A	A	B
Normal	A	B	B
Wet or wet	B	B	B

λut - coefficient of thermal conductivity for the selected type of insulation, according to which the calculation of the thickness is carried out.

Now, having written out the thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity for each layer, it is possible to calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires the thickness to be specified in meters!

To make it easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been placed. It provides for the calculation for three layers (not counting the insulation). If the number of layers is less, then just leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.