How to make wooden tables. Table: material, manufacturing technology, diagrams, designs - simple and complex. Pull-out picnic tables - mobility comes first

Circle - perfect figure. It is no coincidence that he has the most analogs in nature: solar circle and disk of the moon in the sky, round cutaway vegetables and fruits, annual rings on a tree cut ...

It is noted that harmonious the shape of the circle also contributes to the psychological comfort person. So, to create relaxed, informal atmosphere at a business meeting is used round table.

Round table is fine fits in in any interior, be it small kitchen or a spacious living room. The lack of corners makes the table elegant, but more expensive. A budget solution would be to make him yourself. For all the seeming complexity, cutting and assembling a round table is not a problem for a home master.

Roundtable options

It would seem that everything is clear here - round table top on legs. However, manufacturers offer this diversity round tables that widen your eyes!

The first thing you pay attention to is the quantity supports. Options several:

one big central leg or cabinet;
3 legs;
4 legs;
several legs in the middle.

However, the number of legs design differences round tables are not limited. The table can have shelves, a curbstone, pull-out boxes and various add-ons. Like other tables, round ones are folding and sliding, as well as transformers.

Barbecue table, it is also a brazier table or a fire table.

Round folding table,

Round (roulette + card table).

Finally, material from which the round table is made. The classic option is solid wood. The wooden table looks nice and solid, looks great in both classic and modern interiors.

Also for the manufacture of round tables are used such materials, how:

Chipboard, Chipboard;
MDF;
plywood;
natural or fake diamond;
glass;
plastic;
metal.

Round table made of wood

First you need to decide on dimensions table. It can be small, medium or large, depending on whether it is or, for example,

This also takes into account such an important factor as dimensions the room for which the future table is intended.

We will manufacture small and very simple wood table with three legs.

Materials and tools

To do DIY wooden round table, you will need the following materials:

timber, boards;
carpentry glue for wood;
metal corners(3 pcs. for each table leg);
self-tapping screws;
waterproof impregnation for varnish.

Necessary instruments:

pencil, ruler, meter, roulette;
saw, jigsaw;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
drill and drills;
clamps;
brushes;
Sander and sandpaper;
building compass.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. We coat the sidewalls with carpentry glue boards and attach them to each other. We fasten the structure clamps. For additional table strength, you can staple boards slats from the seamy side.

Step 2. Draw circle countertops. For this we use construction compass. If it is not there, it is enough to fasten two bars with a self-tapping screw at the angle we need. Glue the awl to one bar with tape, to the other - pencil... Draw a line. Then measure with a ruler or meter the resulting circle. If necessary, repeat the procedure or draw irregularities by hand.

Step 3. Electric jigsaw carefully cut out the resulting circle. If the tabletop is additionally reinforced with slats, then this procedure will take a little more time.

Step 4. We process everything with a grinder surface countertops. Grinding is very thoroughly, nothing can be missed. The edges of the table are rubbed with emery medium grain paper. On the countertop and ends there should not be a single chip.

Step 5. Countertop edge edges round off up and down.

Step 6. The legs will be made of timber 40 x 40 mm. Cutting to the desired length - 70 cm, we grind with a machine and sandpaper. Rounding all corners.

Step 7. On three sides, we attach to each leg metal corner. It is important to fix all corners in one plane. To do this, we put a leg on any even the surface is the place of attachment to the table top. We apply the corners and mark their location with a pencil. Then, in a position convenient for us, fix corners to the leg with self-tapping screws. This should be done with each leg. This will make the mount more durable because all corners will have the same position.

Step 8. We mark the location of all legs on the countertop. For a perfect match, you can turn the tabletop over and place it on its legs. We fasten the legs to the countertop.

Step 9. From bars of the same or less size, as the legs, we make jumpers. We attach them to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Step 10. We process all parts of the table water repellent impregnation at least 2 times. Drying of each layer of impregnation must be complete (8-10 hours). After that we cover the table. varnish. It is enough to apply two coats of transparent varnish, 3-4 coats of colored varnish to obtain more saturated shade.

Note: the surface of the table can be left natural, only emphasizing the natural beauty of the wood, or decorated in various ways.

Round glass table

An excellent option for manufacturing is hardened shockproof glass with a thickness of at least 5 mm. This glass is used to make many things, including - showers cabins.

Such glass will withstand colossal load and will not break. It can only break from point strong blow into the rib.

With this tempered glass will not scatter on the shards, but will fall many rectangular pieces that not dangerous for a person.

However, for cutting and processing hardened glass needs special equipment.
At home, you can use to make a table triplex, matte or tinted, as well as ordinary glass. If cutting glass is not your strong point, it would be better to entrust this work specialist. He is professional carve out countertop of the required diameter.

Attention: cutting tempered glass yourself may damage the material.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. Draw on a sheet of glass circle. This can be done with compasses, sticking in the middle suction cup and sticking a needle into its center. Another option could be sample, cut from a sheet of Whatman paper or other material. We apply it to the glass and circle marker.

Step 2. Turn the glass over facial side and clean it from dirt. Wipe a soft cotton or microfiber cloth. The glass surface must be clean and dry.

Step 3. We lay a sheet of glass on a flat solid surface. In this case, we push the edge close to the edge of the surface. Begin cut from the farthest point of the marked circle. Cutting is carried out in one continuous movement. If used roller glass cutter, then first you need to dip it in butter(for example, machine). Then we draw around the entire perimeter the lines from the edge of the circle to the ends of the sheet. It should turn out Sun.

Step 4. Place a soft cloth or towel under the circle and gradually break off all the "rays".

Step 5. We clean under running water edge the resulting circle. The water will soften the machining of the glass. Large indentations are removed with file, the rest is sanded with coarse, medium and fine sandpaper. The file can be wetted in kerosene(turpentine).

Step 6. For grinding, you need drill or a grinder with a special attachment. Glued to the nozzle first sandpaper with coarse grain. Then you need to walk around with medium-grit sandpaper and finish sanding with fine-grit sandpaper. Necessarily round off edge edges (top and bottom).

Note: the edge is processed at low speeds to prevent the glass from overheating.

Step 7. We polish the countertop using a circle made of felt and polishing paste. If the glass is frosted, then polishing is carried out without paste.

Step 8. We take as supports for our table chrome plated legs with dimes, which are glued to the tabletop with a special glue, curing UV lamp. In this way, you can fix the legs from any material.

Another way fixing the table top to the legs: drill holes in the countertop for dimes using a special drilling crowns with abrasive spraying (sold in any hardware store). In this case, it is necessary to mark the location of the legs. To drill did not move from the intended place, you need to stick around the glass with plasticine and pour water there, or cut a bar slightly smaller in size to the crown and shove it inside. When drilling continuously pour on a glass of water or wet the crown.

One more option - to make from chipboard circle the same diameter as the tabletop, and insert screws with suction cups. Such a connection holds much better if you glue it not with a simple glass glue, but with a UV lamp glue.

Attention: carry out all work on cleaning and processing glass in protective gloves or mittens.

Product finishing

Decorate the finished product can be done in various ways. Each of them will make the most ordinary table. unique, an author's thing and will emphasize the individuality of its owner.

Decorating the table will help more harmoniously fit it into the general interior rooms.

In addition, using right selected decor you can adjust slips in the processing of a wooden surface, hide or somehow beat darkening glass table top.

Wood the table can be decorated in the following ways:

painting;
mosaic;
marquetry(inlaid with veneer, wooden mosaic);

craquelure(artificial aging of the surface).

Registration techniques glass table:

photo printing;
stained glass painting;
sandblasting treatment;
fusing;
decorating with various fillers.

How to make a wooden round table with your own hands, see video:

After reading the title of the article, many will have a question: why make a wooden table with your own hands, if you can buy it in a store? There are different ways to answer this question.

For some, this is cost savings, especially if you need an uncomplicated piece of furniture. For others, making a table with your own hands out of wood means putting your soul into the original copy and making this piece of furniture unique.

In addition, a self-made table will perfectly fit into the space, because it will have the desired style and size. Moreover, wood is a versatile and affordable material.

Varieties of tables

Structurally, countertops can be divided into several types:

formed by solid wood;
prefabricated;
glued;
made in the form of a shield from wooden lamellas.

A solid array, as a rule, is used for the manufacture of expensive premium furniture, and in order to make tables for summer cottages out of wood with your own hands, other technologies are used, both individually and in variations.

Glued countertops with lamellas (boards) of different tree species look very nice and decorative. This is achieved due to the different structure and pattern of wood. Such products are practically not subject to deformation, since this process does not affect the wood fibers in products made using adhesive technology.

In shape, country tables are most often made rectangular or round on various legs. But some craftsmen manage to make them in the form of a hemp or a log, which looks very decorative.

You can complement the table by making a whole ensemble with chairs or stools made in the same style.

Countertop material

To make a table with your own hands out of wood, use the following materials:

Edged board or timber. Manufacturing will cost some work and time, but the result will please. In addition, with the help of wood stain, you can change the original appearance of the board beyond recognition.
Croaker. Suitable for those who want to give the table a rough, rustic look, because the edges of this material are not processed, but only the top and bottom are sanded. A solid tabletop can be made from a wide slab.
Barrel cut. The simplest, but perhaps the most time-consuming option can be the option of making a tabletop from a cut of the trunk. Besides the fact that you need to find a trunk of the required diameter, you also need to make a perfectly flat cut. This is fraught with the formation of a large amount of waste. The cut is not stained, but varnished.

The main requirement is that the table with your own hands made of wood (photos of the products are presented in the article) must be made so that it is strong and durable. These parameters can be ensured not only and not so much by wood processing, but by the right choice for the work of a suitable type of wood.

Hardwoods might seem to be the best choice for this. But ... They have one significant drawback: under the influence of temperature changes and from the action of moisture, countertops from such rocks swell and crumble.

Therefore, elastic wood will be the right choice for the tabletop of a garden or country table. It combines two qualities: hardness and the ability to return to its original state, that is, resistance to deformation.

The following tree species combine these properties in the best way:

larch;
Linden;
aspen.

You need to know that before you make a table out of wood with your own hands, the wood must be sanded and treated with antiseptics, and at the end of the work it must be varnished.

Benefits of wood

The most popular type of material used to make a country table is wood. This is due to the following:

wood is easy to process and has an aesthetic appearance;
the tree is resistant to natural phenomena and climatic factors;
due to good shock absorption, chips and scratches rarely form on the wood;
if necessary, a wood product can be easily restored;
the material gives room for imagination in terms of processing and painting;
products can be decorated in various ways, giving originality;
the tree is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
the price of wood material is affordable for many;
wood is distinguished by its visual appeal.

Tools for work and dimensions

In order to make a table with your own hands out of wood, you will need:

thickness gauge;
saw, jigsaw, hacksaw for wood;
jointer;
cutter;
screwdriver;
drill;
grinding device;
clamps;
pencil, tape measure, square.

From the materials you need to prepare:

antiseptic impregnation;
sandpaper of different grain size;
wooden boards, beams or slabs;
varnish, paint and stain;
joiner's glue.

In order to make a table with your own hands out of wood without any problems, the drawings must be prepared in advance, having thought over the shape and dimensions of the product.

The size of the table largely depends on the size of the room. And the standard height is usually 70 cm. For a family of four, it will be enough to make a square table with a meter side. And if a rectangular tabletop is planned, then the optimal dimensions will be 120x90 cm, which will allow you to receive both hosts and guests.

Making a simple table out of wood

To make a simple table for a gazebo made of wood with your own hands, you will need a bar and boards. The step-by-step process can be described as follows:

Select the required amount of material. Ideally, for sufficient width, six to seven boards with a thickness of 3 cm are required. The boards should be treated with a jointer and strictly flat. The presence of knots is encouraged.
Treat the material with an antiseptic and dry well.
Lay out the boards, align to the desired length, check the joints. You should get an even rectangle.
Attach the bar to the boards on both sides and cut evenly, forming a perimeter.
Screw the timber to the boards. To do this, on the underside of the tabletop, in the center of the boards on each side, make a two-thirds recess through the block with a small drill for a bolt with a lock. On the timber, widen the hole slightly to drown the bolt head.
Trim the corners a little to get a rounded shape.
On the underside, secure with self-tapping screws, smearing with glue, another board diagonally.
Sandpaper, first coarse, and then fine sand the surface of the countertop, board and timber from below.
Cover the table with wood stain and varnish or paint.

Making table legs

At first glance, it may seem that the problem of how to make a table out of wood with your own hands has been solved by making a tabletop. But the appearance of the table largely depends on how the legs or leg of the table are made. After all, this detail should not only correspond to the style of the entire product, but also have a certain size and shape in order to ensure stability.

An interesting fact is that the more difficult the table legs are in making, the more likely they will not last long. The main task is to make simple, easy-to-use, low-weight supports under the table with your own hands from wood. Drawings of the legs can be omitted.

For their production, it is necessary to select four identical beams 85 cm long, which will be installed in the corners of the table. Then you need to connect them on each side with boards or beams: two of them will be equal to the width of the tabletop, and two will be equal to the length. After that, the structure is attached to the countertop, glued and left to dry for a day.

Instead of glue, it is better to use furniture corners, which need to be fastened with self-tapping screws. Or apply both options at the same time.

Making a round table

To make a round table with your own hands out of wood, you will need:

square timber with a side of 10 cm and a length of 75 cm - 4 pcs;
boards 10x2 cm, length 75 cm - 2 pcs;
boards 25x4 cm, length 200 cm - 4 pcs;
boards 10x2 mm 80 cm long - 2 pcs;
boards 10x2 cm long 160 cm - 2 pcs.

Step-by-step manufacturing guide:

Put long 4 boards next to each other, tightly fitting together.
Draw a circle using tools or a shape.
Cut the boards with a jigsaw along the lines drawn.
From boards 160 cm long, assemble a shield in the form of a circle.
Form a rectangular frame from the rest of the boards and fix the shield with galvanized screws.
Attach the legs from the timber to the frame.
Test the structure for stability and strength.
Then carefully disassemble.
Next, grind the wood with a grinding device with coarse sandpaper.
Then sand with medium to zero grit sandpaper to perfect smoothness.
Treat the wood of all parts with wood stain and varnish in the direction of the wood grain.
Assemble a do-it-yourself table made of wood, a photo of a round table is presented above.

Decorating the finished product and caring for it

In order to get a country table that is unique in style, it must be decorated. The material for this can be slices of thin trunks laid out on the table top. Carved elements on the table top and legs can also become decoration, which will add visual lightness to the product.

For a change, you can play with the color of boards, differently treated with wood stain or painted with paint.

In order for a table made of wood with your own hands to serve as long as possible, you must follow simple rules:

Do not leave the product in the sun or rain.
Clean the worktop surface weekly and rub with polish.
To preserve the varnish for the winter, bring the table indoors.

One of the simplest types of furniture that you can make yourself is a table. The simplest option is suitable for giving. For the kitchen, it is worth exploring the existing options in order to make a table that fits the overall interior. Below are options for tables with drawings, manufacturing instructions.

Table sizes are optimal for the kitchen

Before you start making a kitchen table, you need to decide on its size. There are several factors to consider. The size of the table is directly influenced by the area of the kitchen and the place where it will be located. It should harmoniously fit into the kitchen, be roomy, not interfere with cooking, and fully fulfill its function in the process of eating.

For a person to feel comfortable at the table, his personal space should be at least 70 cm, that is, there should be no one within a radius of 30 cm. For a family of four, a table with a size of 90x90 cm or 100x100 cm will be optimal if it can be moved away from the wall or placed in the middle so that each has its own side.

If it is impossible to move the table, and the size of the kitchen does not allow setting the table in the middle, you can install a rectangular table with a side length of 120 cm, a short side of 70 or 85 cm.Two will sit behind the long side, and two one on the short sides.

If the size of the kitchen allows, then it is better to install a large dining table with a side length of 160, 180 cm, a short side - 90 cm.At such a table it will sit freely on ordinary days, and during events with guests it can accommodate 10-12 people.

For small-sized kitchens for receiving guests, a transforming table or a sliding table will come to the rescue. In such furniture, inserts with a width of 40 to 50 cm are provided, which are inserted into the middle of the table. There can be up to three inserts, they are usually hidden under the countertop. The length of the sliding structure can reach 280 cm, folded - 180 cm.

The height of the table depends on the size of the people sitting at it: height and build. Usually they are made with a height of 700 mm, but options from 60 to 80 cm are possible. When choosing a table, you need to take into account its location. When moving the hostess in the kitchen, she should not be disturbed by those sitting at the table.

What role do legs and their number play?

When deciding on the size of the table, you should pay attention to the type and number of legs. There may be a different number of them:

One massive leg is suitable for small items. More often these are tables for a gazebo, children's, small-sized kitchen. For stability, a reliable cruciform harness is made that can cope with heavy loads.
Two massive legs are used for oval and rectangular tables. They are installed at an optimal distance from each other. Usually such legs are narrow at the top and widen towards the bottom. They are convenient because people sitting at the table do not bump their legs with their legs.
The most popular is the rectangular dining table with four legs. This is convenient for the folding option. There is no need to come up with any complex structures and do specific calculations. The table is quite stable and reliable if the length and dimensions of the legs are correctly calculated. They should be the same so that the table does not wobble or twist during use.

The legs for the table can be tightly fastened to the drawers, or they can be detachable. The second option is convenient for storing and transporting the product. In this case, the table top must be reliable. True, the design of a table with detachable legs is more complicated.

Choosing a tree - characteristics of the species

Nowadays, there are many building materials from which you can build a kitchen table. But the most affordable and reliable option is wood. A wooden kitchen table with his own hands can be made by a person with minimal carpentry experience. It is important to choose the right tree for this.

The choice of material for the countertop determines its durability, resistance to mechanical damage, decay.

Wood varies in density, it can be soft, hard and the hardest. Scratches and marks may remain on softwood countertops, although this depends on how you use the table. Hard rocks are more difficult to handle.

Soft species are often used: spruce, poplar, alder, pine, fir, cedar, juniper, horse chestnut. Hard species are: birch, oak, fruit species (plum, apple, quince), walnut, elm, ash, maple. The hardest varieties include: yew, dogwood, acacia, boxwood, iron (stone) birch.

The best option for the kitchen is oak. It is durable, strong, easy to process, varnished, not resistant to decay and deformation, ideal for wet rooms. Larch has healing properties, but since it has to be treated with protective substances, it releases healing phytoncides to a lesser extent. Juniper is not used, as there is little of it left in nature. Horse chestnut is used for landscaping.

For the countertop, it is best to use walnut, pine, oak, wenge, for the legs - birch, for dowels - boxwood and acacia. Tabletops can be made of laminated chipboard, plywood, MDF. The ends of these materials are covered with melamine film or special PVC. These materials are less strong and durable, not as environmentally friendly as solid wood, but they are easy to process and have a low cost.

Table models - types and configurations

By design, there are four types of kitchen tables that you can make yourself: regular, folding, sliding and prefabricated.

A regular table can be oval, rectangular or round. This is the simplest option in terms of design, but its manufacturing technology is not so simple. There are many nuances associated with the ability to use carpentry tools. It is necessary not only to assemble the product correctly, but also to decorate it beautifully. A crucial step is varnishing.

Round tables are suitable for large kitchens and living rooms, they are located in the center of the room. The main problem is that they take up more space. You cannot put them against the wall, since in order to sit at a round table, you need free space. The round shape of the table top makes it possible to vary the number of legs: there can be one, two, three or four. The version with two legs is not suitable, as this design is not stable. You can also install a round table in a small kitchen, then the tabletop should be no more than 90 cm.

For compact kitchens, a small oval table is suitable, which can be conveniently placed in a soft kitchen corner. A more common option is a medium to large table that fits well in an average apartment. At the same time, a lot of people can sit behind it. If the dimensions of the room do not allow installing a large oval table, you can resort to the sliding option. When folded, it can even have a round shape.

A transforming table is most often a compact bedside table that can be attached to the wall. They take up no more than 60 cm. At the unfolded table can fit from 10 to 15 people. To make a transforming table, you will need special tools and the ability to use them. Therefore, making it with your own hands is difficult.

The simplest option for a homemade table is a book table. It is easier to make it from laminated chipboard, the sawing of which can be ordered at a special factory. From the finished parts, you can independently assemble the table. Parts of the table top are attached with hinges. You can take wood as the material of manufacture, but this will complicate the process.

The sliding version is also easy to manufacture. A feature of such a table is that its dimensions are increased by inserting an additional panel into the middle of the tabletop. To do this, move the two halves of the tabletop apart and insert a panel between them. Parts are connected using wooden dowels. Sliding mechanisms can be of different designs. In older models, there were no roller guides or full rollback, so an effort had to be made to push the tabletop apart, as the wooden parts rubbed together.

In modern models, a special mechanism is used that ensures the rolling out of parts without damaging the wooden surfaces. The simplest version of the mechanism is two metal guides, which can be used as a furniture slide for drawers. Folded additional sections are stored under the worktop. To fix them, you can make special fasteners.

In factory sliding tables, additional sections connected by hinges fold and hide under the tabletop thanks to a special mechanism. For this, an additional false tabletop with a hole in the middle is provided in the table.

A folding table is a table top with a pair of folding legs that is attached with hinges to a wall or furniture. The greatest difficulty is the manufacture of folding legs. Although there are ready-made versions of such legs that can be purchased at stores selling furniture accessories.

Organization of the workplace - selection of material and tools

For carpentry work, you need to choose a special room, since a lot of dust and debris is generated during work. Wood requires processing with special protective substances that emit harmful fumes, so the room must be well ventilated, it is better to organize a forced operation. You can work in the garage, but the presence of sawdust and dust will not be the best way to affect the car. The best option is a barn. If it is not there, then you can build it - in economic activities it will be useful in the future.

Having found a room, you need to prepare the necessary carpentry tools and related materials:

plane;
hacksaw;
drill;
jigsaw;
fastening tool;
carpenter's hammer;
mallet;
chisel;
bit;
milling machine;
grinder;
sandpaper;
paint brush;
wooden boards;
corners;

In addition to carpentry tools, it is necessary to prepare measuring instruments: a ruler, square, pencil or marker, construction tape.

For the production of a tabletop, you need to prepare a furniture board with a thickness of 4 to 5 cm, a width of 60 to 80 cm.The length is selected based on personal preferences, usually it is from 120 to 140 cm.If it was not possible to find a solid plate for the tabletop, it can be replaced with a set boards. Boards need to be glued together or connected in another way.

For the legs, you need to prepare a square bar. The most suitable timber is 60x60 cm or 70x70 cm in size. You can purchase ready-made curly legs in specialized stores. To stiffen the structure, you need to purchase a beam with a section of 40x40 cm and a length equal to the size of the tabletop around the perimeter.

It is possible to protect wood from rotting for the entire service life by treatment with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE). You need to process the parts twice with a break of 3-5 days. Even birch plywood does not delaminate after EPE processing and becomes suitable for faceplates.

Water-based acrylic varnishes are replacing nitrocellulose furniture varnishes, which are safer to use and have better characteristics. This also applies to glue. PVA is gradually replacing wood glue and BF-2. True, you need to apply it on both contacting sides and leave it connected until a cut under pressure for 1-3 days, but for use at home this is acceptable.

Furniture blanks can be pre-protected and tinted with a stain or painted with special paints with a lacquer base or non-malar oil and water-based lacquer dyes. Sourdough from varnish and paint is prepared in advance, stored in a tightly closed container, and then added to the varnish until the desired tone is obtained. Colored varnishes on oil paints and NC are mixed according to the rules for mixing paints for painting. Acrylic paints can be mixed without restriction.

Start of work - drawings, preparation of parts

Before you start making a dining table with your own hands, you need to carefully consider what it will be: shape, size, design, technological solutions. At the design stage, the appearance of the table and the degree of its convenience are determined. It should harmoniously fit into the kitchen space, not interfere with the movement of people, fully fulfill its main function - placing people for eating.

Before making the table, you need to draw a sketch and create a diagram according to which the components will be assembled. You can use ready-made options, choose the most suitable one and be guided by it. But if you want to show your imagination, you can create your own individual sketch, make the appropriate calculations and diagrams. It is important not to make mistakes in calculations in order to get a reliable, durable and stable structure.

Below are the finished dimensional drawings.

In the process of making any wooden structure, you need to prepare the details. To do this, follow these steps:

Preparation of the canvas. It needs to be sanded, cleaned, treated with antiseptics and antipyrine to protect it from moisture, fire and decay.
If wood cuts are used for the table, then they should have optimal moisture content. They must be carefully reviewed before use. If cracks are present, they must be carefully repaired.
The main details of the table: table top, legs and stopper, are transferred from the sketch to the canvas, and then cut out.
The parts that are intended for the support legs and slats are made 3 cm shorter. On the legs, you need to make horizontal cuts on each side. The processing depends on the type of attachment of the legs to the table top.

When all the elements are ready, you can start assembling the table. If a more complex design is provided, then additional parts and mechanisms need to be prepared.

We fasten the legs in pairs using short jumpers. To do this, we drill two inclined holes on the inside of the crossbars. When drilling, be careful not to damage the feet. We fasten the structure with self-tapping screws, screwing them through the legs and bars. Then we fasten the legs with long jumpers. We also twist the elements with self-tapping screws. It is better to fasten the legs to the tabletop with bolts, having drilled the corresponding holes in advance.

We make the main element of the table - the tabletop

Particular attention should be paid to the main element of the table - the table top. It must be reliable and durable. The reinforcement bar should be mounted exactly according to the markings, taking into account the location of the legs.

The best option is to buy a ready-made postforming worktop. Manufacturers offer boards with a wide selection of textures, sizes and colors. Postforming is a profiled laminated chipboard with rounded edges. The advantages of using such a stove for the kitchen are as follows:

High wear resistance, resistance to mechanical damage and high temperatures.
The postforming worktop has a drip tray where dirt collects and is easy to remove. This ensures high hygiene.
There is no need for edging the board, which is a laborious process.
Convenience of processing. If it is necessary to saw the postforming, then it is processed in the same way as wood or chipboard.
Thanks to the rounded ribs, the mechanical stresses are distributed evenly over the entire tabletop, which is important if the table is made with a load-bearing tabletop.

The use of postforming simplifies and speeds up the manufacture of the table, but solid wood or furniture board looks more solid.

If it was not possible to purchase a ready-made countertop, you can make a type-setting with your own hands. To do this, you need a long jointer and a hand cutter. It is better, of course, to carry out the processing on a milling and planing machine. In the absence of the necessary tools, parts can be ordered from the carpentry shop, providing the exact dimensions.

Tabletop manufacturing consists of the following steps:

1. Prepared boards must be adjusted to the required size so that they are of the same width and length.
2. Next, we lay out the boards on the working surface like a brickwork: the middle of each board fell on the joint of the previous ones.
3. When the material is laid out, you can start making the countertop. The mating surfaces should be well finished and sanded. Then we glue the rows of boards with wood glue or PVA and three clamps. You can glue up to 6 rows at a time. Leave the blanks to dry completely.
4. Then remove the irregularities with a planer and grind the surfaces with medium and fine-grained emery paper. Chamfer and round the corners.

An interesting version of the countertop, decorated with furniture tiles or a solid block. To do this, using manual milling or a chisel, a cavity is made with a depth equal to the thickness of the tile. Around the perimeter of the table top, you need to leave a side with a height of about 50-10 mm. Tiles are glued to the prepared surface with glue. To make the structure more sturdy, a bar is attached around the perimeter to self-tapping screws.

Assembling a table from a table top, legs and lintels

Below is the assembly of a simple kitchen table with a countertop, the manufacture of which is described above. In addition to the table top, you need to make 4 parts for the legs.

In each manufactured element, we drill holes into which the fastening bolts will be inserted. On the vertical and horizontal parts of the supports, the holes must be exactly aligned with each other so that they can be bolted together. For the manufacture of supports, you can use plywood or OSB with a thickness of about 16 cm.

To make the structure strong, we mount a jumper between the legs, it will not allow them to disperse. The lintel can be made from the same material from which the table top was made. It doesn't need to be fixed at first. This can be done when the table is fully assembled by screwing one self-tapping screw from each end of the vertical support. Next, we install the brackets for the legs and additionally fasten the tabletop with bars. The brackets can also be made of OSB or plywood for better aesthetic appeal.

To give the table a massive appearance, we mount the frame for covering the table top with a frame. To do this, we fasten the rail along the perimeter, screwing it in with self-tapping screws. In the rail, we first drill holes for furniture dowels (chopiks) at a distance of 30 cm from each other. When the slats are screwed on, we insert dowels into the holes along the perimeter of the tabletop. We decorate the tabletop around the perimeter with a solid wood strip, the thickness of which should be about 3 cm. It is placed on the dowels, having previously applied glue to the adjoining sides. Next, we turn over the finished tabletop and attach the legs to it, which we fix with bolts.

After complete assembly, all fasteners should be checked. There should be no backlash anywhere.

The advantage of this prefabricated structure is that it is easy to disassemble and reassemble. This is useful when updating a table. Having disassembled the table, you can remove the old coating from each part, polish and again varnish or paint.

Aiming the external beauty of the table - finishing

All wooden parts that will be used to assemble the table must be carefully sanded and polished so that the surface is perfectly smooth. This makes it possible to emphasize the natural beauty and texture. To make a dining table, you need to take high quality wood that will withstand the load. If the wood has defects, they can be leveled, putty and decorated with acrylic paint.

When the table is fully assembled, you need to give it a beautiful appearance. This is achieved by covering it with wood stain and varnish, and the more layers of varnish are applied, the more beautiful the wooden product will look. Varnishes serve as additional protection for wooden parts from mechanical damage, premature aging, and extend the service life of the product.

Paintwork is carried out in stages. Before applying varnish or paint, the work surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt. Then stain or varnish is applied. By adding dyes, the varnish can be given a certain shade. Dry wood after varnishing should be at room temperature.

The table can be painted with a primer. The choice of color depends on personal preference. It is important that the kitchen table is in harmony with the overall environment. It is better to choose a water-based paint, it dries well and is almost odorless.

In order for wooden furniture to serve for a long time and have a beautiful appearance, it needs to be looked after. Furniture with a polished or varnished surface requires more careful maintenance, as scratches can easily appear on it. Such furniture does not tolerate contact with hot ones. For care, use universal polishing compounds. Plastic-coated chipboard and MDF countertops should be cleaned with detergents.

A do-it-yourself dining table can become the pride of the owner, since he puts his soul into making it. In a company sitting at such a table, a sincere and warm atmosphere is created.

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distribution and dining tables; the remains of food and food have been preserved on them. In this article we will see how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen table completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial skills of carpentry, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and turn a screw.

The table in the kitchen also gives considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here a lot less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite available for making with your own hands, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, in which we will try to help the reader.

You can make a kitchen table in at least 15 different ways., including art forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will restrict ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the least labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular one for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and must be served over the shoulder of the seated person. This already belongs to the category of parodies of the rules of good form. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards yourself or away from yourself? Answer: depending on what you want to shower, yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity wedging into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m.However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested seductive forms on the cheek of the faithful just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table for the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm... For singles, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it in the "microkitchen" or in the kitchen area of a small-sized odnushka wall-mounted folding, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

What to do

The traditional kitchen table is on the base of pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their planks placed on the edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the table top can be freely applied to them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and more durable, but it is more difficult to bring in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the drawers are tightly fastened to the table top, and the legs are detachable. The table top in this case is needed strong and not of any suitable for the pre. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skidding / removal. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail later.

The table on the underframe can also be decorated, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - the chiseled shaped legs - are excellently obtained from commercially available handrail balusters (see below). The figured wash down of the tsar for a novice craftsman who knows how to handle a jigsaw is not a problem. Remains a hammer - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For her, you can rent a hand-held milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like, with it the very work of mouldering takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are beam-structure tables, pos. 3. They are even in the simplest version (2 options, see below) more attractive than tables with a base. However, to perform them in a high-end design (pos. 4), well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required. Beam tables require more material consumption, but their indisputable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing worktop without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest kind of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and the assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent production of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially made a splash due to its compact folded form and the ability to use it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the pivot support lock was the simplest, of a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the support thickness to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and on the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical latch turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.

Wall folding tables, (pos. 7), are found occasionally in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their superiors. have all the disadvantages of book tables with little or no improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used on the farm much more often, but this is a separate class of pieces of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to only mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage when drying out: oak, hornbeam, wenge, chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack, even when impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. Hence, some features of its manufacture follow, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

Table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a ready-made post-formed countertop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard plate with rounded edges, finished with wood or other material. The advantages of postforming applied to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, countertops made of boards, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Joining the boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work, for this special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a kitchen countertop:

How to make a table top from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the look can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (pos. 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel joint, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to collect their first products on furniture euro screws - confirmations. It is more expensive, but does not require any special skills. the hole for the confirmation in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one run, see fig.

Details made of laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected by confirmations, last for many years. All structures described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

Use furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first glance: for furniture slots for a hexagon, and for plumbing ones for a Phillips screwdriver.
The diameter of the confirmation body without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1 / 5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
The height of the confirmation neck must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
The deepening of the threaded part of the confirmation into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmation.
The hole (blind hole) for the confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
Use the main drill only with a twist drill for wood.
It is imperative to thread the main drill into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
Drill holes for confirmates with a main drill of diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmat on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult even for a perfect "teapot" to fulfill these conditions:

By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the confirmation body without thread;
There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirms, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, you can determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open the pictures at the request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
We say: "I need so much of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put on them a detachable (freely superimposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a head and various types of corrugation on a long recessed and short protruding part are produced, see fig. on right. The first to be fixed are thick countertops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe, together with the legs (item 1 in the figure), are traditionally tied (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite difficult and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the head section of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters, the head is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection of self-tapping screws on wood obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer layers of the tsars should be 1.5 cm apart from the outer surfaces of the tops of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the side of the kitchen table is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws obliquely with diagonal ties at the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the tsars. If the tabletop is not supposed to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the laborious setting of it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the tsars and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The top of a classic table with detachable legs should be from 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or from 30 mm (solid wood). Countertops made of other materials, for example. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe at the same time with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between the modules of thermal expansion of them and the wood, the table will soon loosen.

Further, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary self-tapping screws for wood. they are without a neck that keeps the joint from displacement.

The next point - jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are required, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overhead. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the desk drawer are taken the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The structure of the furniture drawer is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble his tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front drawer of the table or enter it flush, it doesn't matter.

To install the box in the table, an opening is cut out in the longitudinal front sidewall according to the dimensions of the cross-section of the box tray, plus allowances on the sides of the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to fix the rails. They are attached to the longitudinal side bars from the inside using backing bars. It is not necessary to fix it from the tabletop, they will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. parts of the guides, push the box into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross-section of the side bars is not less than 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Any tabletop weighing up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second one is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already beamed.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The table top is constructively any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with the solid wood table top. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, a beginner stumbling block may seem like a lower dressing (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for a wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How this type of beam kitchen table is made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components

The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second - only a tray is provided under the countertop, and it itself can be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the countertop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So it is rustic or modern, it is a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without a tabletop

Factory kitchen tables without cupboards are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.

First, a table holder is still needed, made of a wooden beam from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 attachment points of the leg holder must be approximately the same, otherwise the attachment will loosen by itself. A strapping made of a bar expands the stress fan in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace a continuous strapping with corner overlays, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (pos. 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. laminated enough soft wood, the nests can, breaking the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the likelihood that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without table stands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like these tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a self-assembly kit at retail.

Books and cheburashka

The disadvantages of the book-table of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In fig. below is a drawing of the design of a book-table (only one swivel support without tabletop wings is conventionally shown), eliminating them in an amateurish way, but effectively. Quite simply, the width of the pivot support is reduced by more than half compared to the tabletop wing span (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it became comfortable to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest lock (see above), the knees need to be lifted up so that it will be very inconvenient for yourself. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. If this is not the case, the pivot bearings must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was applied in the wall folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezoid converging from top to bottom.

The branded solution to the problems of the book table is the detachable legs stored in the cabinet. Putting them down is not much more troublesome than catching the clamp on the tabletop with a pivot support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no retainer, tk. he just isn't needed.

The next step in the evolution of a book-table is a design with a wider cabinet and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half as much, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).

Such kitchen tables were so popular with consumers that they have already been given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, we built, and finally we built it." A fold-out kitchen table, as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don't need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can eat on it too. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes outside the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-dimensional kitchenette in a bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9 meter kitchen of a brezhnevka. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table doesn't stand on its own. To plant eaters, you need to add 400 mm to it along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m "living space", and the table 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. It is very, very difficult to shove such a thick slice into a regular-sized kitchen without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is close at hand.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our belly, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometime there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

The dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, breathe in fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda at a table made for giving with your own hands. Such a table will not only add special charm to such a simple ceremony, but will also become a source of pride for you and your loved ones.

Option 1. Table with legs

When choosing materials for the table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of the wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Conifers such as spruce and pine are malleable and easy to work with, but without proper treatment, such material is more flammable, and the resin emitted can ruin the tablecloth.

Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

Wood species	Brinell hardness)	Density (kg / m3)	Stability	Color change trends
Birch	3,0	600	average	the color gets deeper
Larch	2,6	500	good	takes on shades of gray
European oak	3,7	700	good	the color gets deeper
	4,0	700	average	light to straw, yellowish brown
Pear	3,3	680	average	blushes
Cherry	3,0	580	good	from light pink to deep reddish shade

Materials and tools

For the interior arrangement of summer cottages and country houses, long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to freely move around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything you need for work and designing the table itself.

For the table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden boards measuring 30-2000 mm.

Balusters or wooden legs. Curly balusters will give a homemade table a production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. A comfortable table height is ensured with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.

Other materials and tools.

Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
Wood putty.
Screwdriver and self-tapping screws for 30 and 50 mm.
Various grit sandpaper and holder.
Clamps for fixing legs and table top.
Electric drill.
Sander.
Building level.
Square.
Roulette or centimeter.
Marker.
Glue.

Prices for various types of construction timber

Construction beam

Manufacturing steps

When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a plane, grinder or coarse sandpaper to remove irregularities, remnants of cut knots, and clean up cracks. Boards must be flat and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including ends, edges and corners.

If it is supposed to be manufactured with a solid shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of a single sheet and save time for adjusting the elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the legs for the legs.

Assembling the frame for the countertop

The frame enhances the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions completely depend on the parameters of the table top, but there are several general rules: both in length and in width, the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the table top.

Video - DIY garden table

The frame itself is assembled from 4 planks that form the outer frame, and 6 inner transverse slats. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with self-tapping screws 50 mm. The joints are pre-coated with glue (PVA or carpentry). To prevent the boards from splitting, pilot holes can be drilled into them and only then the screws can be screwed in.

Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the transverse strips, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the transverse strips are coated with glue, and the whole structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the heads of the screws do not protrude, but are completely "sunk" in the wood.

Table frame (manufacturing option)

The tabletop boards are connected, leveled with a tape measure and laid face down on the floor, the frame is placed on top so that the crossbars lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the strips, and all elements are tightened with screws by 30 mm. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each transverse board.

Assembling the table legs

The table top is laid on a workbench or several stools for subsequent installation of the legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.

Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if you wish, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws from the front side of the table, and square ones - with corner fasteners.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Finishing

After mounting the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, the corners are sawn off along the radius with a jigsaw or the butt is completely rounded off. Chamfers can be cut from the edges of the countertop and everything can be carefully sanded.

If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired with wood. It is better not to touch the screw heads in order to be able to tighten the structure.

After final grinding, all dust and shavings are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.

Tables with elements of decoupage decor or single painting look beautiful and unusual. But hiding the beauty of natural wood under a layer of paint is not worth it, modern varnishes and impregnations will do all the necessary work to protect the product from moisture.

Video - Table on legs for a summer residence

Option 2. Stump table

An unusual and non-standard way to equip a backyard space is to create interior items from natural materials. When improving the territory, old trees or trees that threaten buildings are often cut down. If at your dacha there is or was just such a tree, then definitely there will be no problems with finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.

Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you will need very little:

wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you need to adhere to the rule "the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board";
stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any type of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp or rotten. If the tree has been cut recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it's best to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry place or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that a few weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. Typically, the entire process takes at least two months. You can determine the state of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark leaves without effort, then you can start working;
water-based varnish for wood, natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
sandpaper of various grit and holder;
planer or sander;
chisel;
building level;
roulette;
hammer and nails;
screwdriver and self-tapping screws;
abrasive fiber.

Manufacturing steps

Stage 1.

The dried workpiece of the future table must be cleaned of the bark. A chisel or chisel is useful for this step. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. Any soft and rotten areas should be removed as well.

Stage 2.

After the bark has been removed, the stump needs to be aligned with the horizontal plane. For this, a level surface is prepared using a level, and the base of the future table is installed on it.

If curvature is observed, then the flaws are eliminated with a planer. At the same stage of work, unnecessarily large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the sections from which are then sanded.

Stage 3.

A leveled stump is sanded with a disc sander, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also sanded, and hard-to-reach places are processed with coarse-grained sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment in time.

Stage 4.

Cracks and grooves in the barrel must be cleaned of dirt and debris with a chisel, after which sandpaper folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper should be carefully processed from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5.

To prevent the stump from rotting and to ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of the legs will make it more convenient to move the table.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to fasten them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.

Stage 6.

After installing the legs, proceed to the sheathing of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we fill two parallel strips perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and on top two more rows of holders - a total of 6 strips fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.

Stage 7.

We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse strips. The shape of the table top can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The option of a table with a round or oval tabletop looks more advantageous.

To give this shape, you can use a homemade device made of thread, pencil and nail: the end of the thread is tied around a pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining a circle with a selected radius, after which all unnecessary is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinding machine.

Stage 8.

Holes and defects of the boards can be decorated with finely chopped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and processing them again after drying with a grinder to smooth the surface.

The finished tabletop is fixed from below on the crate with nail holders or self-tapping screws.

The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent the varnish from peeling off, and subsequent layers will lay down more evenly.

After dust removal, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. If desired, after drying, the last layer can be treated with an abrasive fiber - this will remove excess shine and give the surface a matte finish.

Such a creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.

Prices for paints and varnishes

paints and varnishes

Video - Do-it-yourself table for a summer residence from a stump

Beech is quite often used by furniture manufacturers, as it is a hard breed, which is quite plastic and durable. In terms of strength, beech is not inferior to oak. Compared to oak, beech is cheaper. The color of such wood can be from reddish-brown to pinkish-yellow.

has high decorative qualities;
dries quickly;
easy to handle.

afraid of moisture;
poorly polished.

Oak is a hard species with high strength values. The natural color of oak stretches from yellowish white to yellowish brown with a slight shade of gray or green. Oak has a number of other advantages - it is very easy to use, easily glued, practically does not rot and has a beautiful appearance.

despite the high viscosity of wood, it is processed quite well;
bends easily;
resistant to decay;
lends itself well to methods of artificial aging.

price;

Ash wood is harder than oak. The color of the wood is light and delicate golden. Most often it is used in the manufacture of bent and carved furniture or as veneer.

bends well after steaming;
little cracking during drying;
when discolored, it acquires an unusual shade of gray hair.

in conditions of moisture, wood is quickly damaged by a wormhole;
poorly polished.

Aspen is a deciduous tree. It belongs to the Poplar family. This is a very large tree, it grows up to 30 meters in height and may well reach a thickness of 1 meter. Since it grows very quickly, a lot of wood is obtained from it.

very high moisture resistance;
the ability to keep warm, but not give it away;
bactericidal (you can put such furniture in the children's room without fear that it will harm).

not very presentable appearance;
the possibility of darkening, both partially and completely;
it is worth fearing that the product may start to rot from the inside.

Pine is a soft wood that is most often used in the manufacture of frames for upholstered or cabinet furniture. The main advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to decay, humidity and temperature extremes. In addition, pine is one of the most common and affordable materials.

ease of handling;
easy to stick together;
a pleasant medicinal smell that produces phytoncides.

easily scratched and damaged.