Fighting dampness in the basement. Effective ways to deal with dampness in the cellar Very damp in the cellar what to do

With the onset of the cold season, almost every person who has a cellar, basement or garage at home is faced with the problem of moisture in these rooms. Dampness is a common problem in household, which must be fought at the initial stage.

How to get rid of high humidity in the cellar and basement?

It is not worth starting the process of dampness in the cellar, basement and garage. In the future, this can lead to blackening of wooden structures and the appearance of rust on metal structures. Harvest damage will also be done. Vegetables cannot stay in a damp room for a long time. The process of decay begins in them, and the use of such products is dangerous to health.

Most often, dampness forms in basements and floors basements economic purposes due high humidity air. This is facilitated by capillarity, in which water droplets pass through cracks in the walls and floor of the basement. When they evaporate, the humidity of the air increases significantly.

Noticing dampness in the cellar, it is necessary to take a number of measures to eliminate it. Coping with this problem will be easy if you use clear methods to eliminate and further prevent dampness.

Using a hydro-barrier

A strong plastic film is used as a water barrier, which is laid on the floor of the cellar. It is necessary to lay it on a flat prepared surface, laying a layer of clay on top. The clay must be trampled down gently with your feet so as not to dislodge the film. The clay will help dry the air, and the film, folded in two layers, will prevent subsequent moisture penetration. This method will help get rid of dampness in the cellar for a long time.

Improve ventilation

Poor ventilation of the cellar or garage is the main cause of condensation, which leads to dampness. Better ventilation will help reduce humidity and stop mold and mildew growth.

For better quality natural ventilation it is necessary to insulate the chimney. This is done so that the heated air passing through it does not create condensation. The water droplets freeze and create a plug of ice. The plug obstructs the passage of air and the pipe cannot perform its function. Simple insulation will help avoid this situation.

Providing air exchange

Two pipes are installed in the basement or cellar. They should be located at different ends of the room. Cold air from the street enters one pipe. Warm air from the room is discharged into the other pipe. The good ventilation this method provides will help get rid of dampness.

Using the brazier

One of the most common folk ways fight against dampness. It will help to remove it for a long time, without spending a lot of effort and money. One of the easiest to use. For a start, it is advisable to disinfect the room, remove the boxes with vegetables. The brazier is then ignited. It heats up the cellar, the damp air is discharged outside, and the room is dried.

Use of lime

You can sprinkle quicklime on the basement floor with a layer of about 1cm. The lime will absorb moisture and dry out the room. Having used it once, it remains only to dispose of the lime after use.

The slaking process also helps to get rid of mold and mildew. Lime fumes tend to kill bacteria and germs. You need to take a container, pour lime into it and fill it with water. There is no need to stir, so the steam release process will proceed gradually. Using this method, you need to protect your health and leave the premises. Later - thoroughly ventilate the air in the cellar or basement. Should be carried out in several passes.

How to get rid of dampness in the garage?

High humidity in the garage is an urgent problem for many motorists. In this case, dampness harms not only the room, but also the car. In order to provide Good work vehicle, it must be stored in a dry place, protected from moisture.

Dampness in the room where the car is stored not only causes the bumper to rust, but also contributes to the release of toxic chemicals. Inhaling such fumes can lead to future health problems. To get rid of these problems, a number of measures are needed:

Organization of natural ventilation

In a hardware store, choose ventilation pipes and install them at both ends of the building in the same way as in the case of the cellar. It is desirable that the chimney is 1.4 meters above the surface of the garage

Dampness is a very unpleasant phenomenon. It can destroy all the harvest harvested for the winter. Indoor humidity also leads to structural destruction and deterioration of the health of everyone who constantly descends into the garage or basement.

Many owners face this problem. This is not only an unpleasant phenomenon, but also dangerous. How to get rid of dampness in the cellar?

Causes

To start dealing with high humidity in the basement, you need to find out the root of the problem.

The main causes of moisture:

Incorrect conduct ventilation system during design or construction. Violation of air exchange leads to the formation of condensation, windows begin to fog up, dampness appears and mold spreads.
Clogged hoods also lead to poor air exchange.
In case of violation during the construction of the foundation and basement walls, capillary penetration of moisture from the soil is possible. This happens if the builders initially paid insufficient attention to the vertical waterproofing of the erected walls.
Moisture penetrates into the cellar through the cracks in a direct way.
Another reason is the change in the water table. If the soil is saturated with moisture after snow and rain, puddles may appear on the floor due to unreliable waterproofing and poor drainage system.

When the enemy of dampness is identified, you can proceed directly to the fight against the resulting problem. Further steps are taken depending on the source of moisture.

Danger

Constant dampness in a garage or house creates unsatisfactory microclimatic conditions. The moisture in the cellar is not only the reason for its destruction.

A damp basement negatively affects the health of residents, especially if it is located in a residential building, and not under a garage building.

Mold and moisture can worsen lung disease. A person who often visits the basement begins to suddenly suffer from allergies. Development of asthma and rheumatism is possible. In addition, there are known cases of lung cancer detection, the cause of which turned out to be condensation in the cellar.

Also, under the influence of humidity and dampness in the basement, food deteriorates faster.

It is especially dangerous if mold has appeared on the walls, ceiling, shelves for vegetables and fruits. Microscopic spores release toxins that can become a serious health problem for all family members.

Mold can cause household allergies to anything. Toxins cause headache, lethargy, dizziness. For newborns and children under one year old, it is very dangerous, it can provoke the appearance of asthma, since they the immune system especially vulnerable.

Preparatory work

First you need to take out the structures and supplies. On the street, the tree must be inspected if there are black spots - this is mold. It means that it is necessary to inspect all structures.

The shelves are laid out in the sun and dried thoroughly. A tree affected by mold must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate, the concentration of which should be no more than 10%.

If funds are available for a new tree, it is better to replace the entire structure. Possibly eaten inside, but hasn't made it outside yet. In this case, after processing the room and bringing the wood inside, the mold will continue to multiply.

Whitewashing will help remove moisture from the cellar. This procedure is carried out before draining the basement.

You will need a 5% lime solution, it is a good disinfectant. It is poured into 2 buckets. The first part of the solution is used immediately after the removal of the wooden structures.

Put on gloves and glasses.

The corners are treated with a paintbrush for whitewashing, the remaining liquid is not smeared on the walls, but lime is sprayed on them. The same is done with the ceiling. It is important to miss all the joints.

All surfaces of the basement are covered with bumps. After a day or two, when the lime is dry, the procedure is repeated using the second part of the solution.

Lime keeps moisture inside and prevents it from entering the room. After 1–2 days, the basement can be drained.

Dehumidification

Condensation in the basement can occur due to poor ventilation. In most cases, this is the first cause of dampness. Therefore, first of all, they check ventilation ducts and clean them if necessary.

To dry the air in the basement, air movement is restored in the following ways:

How to dry a cellar in a garage: open the hatch, windows and dampers. Then a powerful fan is installed on the exhaust pipes of both rooms. It will pull air, and in 3-10 days the basement will be drier than before.
If the cellar is located separately from the house and garage, there is no electricity and there is no way to connect a fan, a candle is an excellent solution. The chimney must be extended so that it is 10 cm from the floor. A burning candle is placed on the floor right under it on a non-combustible base. Due to the candle, the air in the pipe will heat up, respectively, the thrust is restored and the raw air will come out.
You can put a tablet of dry alcohol under the pipe. If this is not enough, burning paper is thrust into it. Just be careful if the ventilation pipe is plastic.

Such drying methods are capable of removing moisture only in wet weather. If it's warm outside, these methods turn against you. The humidity in the room will not decrease, but, on the contrary, will increase.

Folk remedies

Condensation in the garage and basement can be removed using home remedies. They are inexpensive and effective.

Humidity and condensation in the cellar - how to get rid of:

Dry sawdust will not completely dry out the basement, but will significantly reduce the humidity. They are poured onto the floor, shelves and boxes. When the sawdust gets wet, new ones are poured.
Before use of hydrochloric acid food and preservation are taken out of the cellar. A liter of the product is diluted with 10 liters of water. Wearing gloves and a mask, treat all surfaces. It is important to ensure that the hydrochloric acid solution does not get on things or on the naked body. It can cause chemical burns.
Slaked lime. After the restoration of ventilation ducts or their creation, a container with this substance is placed in the corner of the room. Lime absorbs water. Humidity in the garage and basement will quickly pass, condensation will disappear. Slaked lime also kills fungi in vapors. During the procedure, it is undesirable to go down into the room, or wear a mask. Lime vapors are not safe for human health.
One kilogram of calcium chloride can absorb 1.5 water. It is laid out around the room, collected after 1 day (gloves and a mask are used). Then the calcium chloride is warmed up and can be reused. This product is also toxic, be careful with it.
Cardboard boxes absorb water well. They, like sawdust, are laid out on the floor, and after a day they are collected and laid out with new ones. The method is cheap and effective, but the cellar will not completely dry out. This method is only good for removing condensation.
White moss powder is a great way to remove moisture. How to eliminate dampness: jars of white moss powder are placed in the corners of the cellar. This method effective at low moisture content.

You can also make the room dry with hot clay bricks, an electric fireplace, sulfuric acid and diesel fuel.

Smoke bomb

Smoke bomb - time-tested.

Advantages:

disinfection of the cellar;
disinsection;
destruction of rodents and moles.

Sulfur bomb heats up the air in the room and saturates it with poisonous smoke. For the period of processing the basement, it is necessary to leave the house or garage. There is a possibility that the smoke will penetrate through the cracks into the living room, and a person, if inhaled sulfuric anhydride, may be poisoned by it.

Smoke Bomb Application:

Preparation: take out of the room metal objects, products, conservation. If you take out metal constructions impossible, they are treated with grease or other viscous grease to avoid corrosion.
Counting the number of sulfur sticks: 1 piece for 5-10 cubic meters area.
Protection: you need to wear rubber gloves, goggles, a respirator and put your hair under a hat.
Application: install a sulfur stick on a refractory support (brick, stone or foam block), set fire to the wick and make sure that it has begun to smolder. Then they immediately leave the premises.

After leaving the cellar, you need to change clothes, wash your face, hands and hair. After 5 hours, the smoke bomb is removed and the room is ventilated.

If there is mold in a wooden cellar

If mold appears on racks, shelves and drawers in the basement, you should take emergency measures.

How to remove dampness and remove fungus from a tree:

We carry out all constructions.
We process the walls and ceiling with a solution of soap and soda and water.
Then we dry the room. What to do next? Then it is necessary to carry out disinfection. Lime and clay in the same amount are dissolved in 10 liters of water, 100 g of copper sulfate are added and the racks and boxes are processed. The floor is also subject to such processing, even if it is earthen.

Then the cellar is dried. To speed up the process in the room, set heat gun or electric heaters.

If the room is very humid, it can take a long time to dry. Therefore, the cellar should be ventilated daily.

Process wooden surfaces it is possible in the following ways:

Take one of these means: sodium fluoride, zinc-chlorine, ammonium or sodium fluorosilicate in the amount of 30 g. The substance is diluted in hot water and handle everything wooden structures.
How to make a paste: You need 135 g of clay, a glass of water and 150 g of sodium fluoride. At first chemical agent added to water, and then covered with clay. You should get a homogeneous creamy mixture. This composition is used by all wooden shelving, walls and boxes.

Such methods will protect wooden structures from moisture and mold.

Effective measures

If these methods did not help to cope with the problem of moisture and dampness in the basement, then drastic measures are needed.

These include:

Improved ventilation. If air exchange is impaired, additional ventilation will be required. It is necessary to lead one pipe (supply) from the floor and bring it out into the street. The second ( exhaust system) are placed under the ceiling and taken out into the street. The pipes should be at opposite ends of the cellar.
Lowering the water table. In this situation, you will need to strengthen the foundation and pump out the water. First, a new drainage is laid along the perimeter of the building, then the foundation is strengthened, the correct external and internal waterproofing is done. At the end, they are engaged in drying the room and removing mold from the walls.
Internal waterproofing means impregnating the walls with bitumen mastic. Leaks are sealed with alabaster. For the effectiveness of waterproofing to be greater, it is desirable, but not necessary, to plaster the walls of the cellar.
Floor work is also important if moisture gets on the floor. It must be concreted, and first laid waterproofing film covered with clay. Such modernization must be carried out in inspection pit, otherwise dampness from it will penetrate into the basement.

It is costly to carry out such work some time after the construction of the premises. But it's better than erection new building if the walls and ceiling begin to collapse due to humidity in the room.

So that it is not very humid in the basement under the garage, it is necessary to initially carry out the correct construction works and take care of a good ventilation duct.

It is also necessary to sometimes ventilate the room, prevent mold and treat the walls with antifungal agents.

To get rid of dampness, you need to carry out a number of preparatory measures. To understand why it appeared, where the moisture is oozing from and how you can fix it. You will learn about all this from our article.

Dampness is a very unpleasant phenomenon that can destroy the stored crops. If moisture "settles" in the room, it can lead to the destruction of the structure and deterioration of the health of everyone who regularly descends into the cellar or basement. Read about why dampness "comes to visit" and how to get rid of it as soon as possible - read our material.

Dampness in the house - the reasons for the appearance

Condensation forms on ceilings, floors and walls for a variety of reasons. The most common causes of dampness are the following factors:

ventilation problems... Errors at the design or construction stage lead to the fact that ventilation in the room is disturbed. Most often occurs next error- poorly laid floor slabs and construction garbage block ventilation ducts;

When the temperature difference between inside and outside the room, condensation forms on the windows and walls, and this is the first sign that mold will appear soon.

rising groundwater levels... In spring and autumn, when the flooding of basements and cellars begins due to heavy rains, dampness also intensifies. Poor drainage leads to the accumulation of water in underground storage facilities, the level of humidity rises sharply, and the room turns into an eternally damp closed system;

capillary penetration of moisture from the soil or through cracks... If the foundation was erected in violation of the technology, then after some time due to temperature drops on its inner walls droplets of moisture will appear. Over time, this can lead to partial damage to the walls and even their collapse.

Mold spores can provoke many dangerous diseases including cancers

Why dampness is dangerous

Condensation and characteristic bad smell- these are just the first signs of impending disaster. Condensation has the following consequences:

mold and mildew appear; temperature regime and the level of humidity in the room; microorganisms harmful to humans multiply; walls, ceiling and ceilings are constantly waterlogged.

Because of what the finish suffers; the destruction of the foundation, walls and ceilings begins.

Concrete surfaces and tiles are most often attacked by mold.

How to get rid of dampness

First of all, all summer residents are concerned about the question of how to remove dampness. There are several reliable ways to eliminate dampness in the cellar and basement, but first you need to find out what caused the excess moisture. To do this, carefully examine the room:

if water droplets appeared on the walls and ceiling, the reason is in violation of ventilation;
puddles on the floor indicate an increase in the level of groundwater;
droplets only on the walls hint at the lack of basement waterproofing.

Now let's take a closer look at ways to eliminate each of the causes.

How to improve ventilation

If air exchange is disturbed in the room, the easiest way to improve it is by organizing additional ventilation. Basement ventilation is of two types:

natural - involves the use of the so-called. "air" - holes along the perimeter of the building. Their total area should be about 1/400 total area buildings; compulsory - implies the use of special equipment which forcibly pumps Fresh air... Usually used in large rooms.

Installation forced ventilation- expensive pleasure

To get rid of condensation on the ceiling and walls, you can carry out the following procedures:

Thermal insulation engineering networks

sewer pipes

mineral wool

Extraction organization

ventilation ducts

Lowering the water table

If the room is penetrated groundwater Is a serious problem that, over time, can lead to the partial collapse of the building. In this case, it is necessary to carry out a number of additional measures aimed at strengthening the foundation and pumping out groundwater.

In particular, you will need to do the following:

dig up the foundation;
organize drainage around the perimeter of the building;
strengthen the foundation; arrange external and internal waterproofing;
make a blind area around the perimeter of the building;
dry the room.

Only qualified specialists can carry out the whole range of work on groundwater disposal

How to get rid of capillary moisture

If moisture forms on the walls of a building, this means that it penetrates from the external environment, namely from the soil. Some of the most popular measures can be used to prevent it from entering a building:

use of waterproofing materials- first of all roofing material, linokrom and hydroisol. All of them are made from pieces of dense material impregnated with bitumen. The cellar or basement is pasted over as with outside and from the inside;

protective compounds which clog the pores in concrete are also considered an excellent "cure" for capillary moisture;

Thanks to these compositions, it is possible to organize both a point effect on the holes through which moisture oozes, and application to all problem areas.

bituminous mastic and polymer resins used for additional protection of walls and floors from condensation. These formulations can be applied independently, but they do not always provide required level protection and it is better to supplement them with waterproofing materials;

shielding applied in especially difficult cases, when, simultaneously with capillary action, groundwater appears in the room. Protective shields are made from geotextiles, bentonite or clay.

With capillary penetration, moisture from the floor evaporates and settles on the walls

External waterproofing basement or cellar

Inspect the structure and check the condition of the slopes, downpipes, drainage system and blind areas. If you, in principle, do not have a drainage system, then first start by installing drainpipes and slopes. Next, move on to protecting the outer walls:

remove the old blind area;
dig a hole about 50 cm wide from outer wall basement;
dry the outer wall;
apply an antifungal compound to it;
coat the wall with bitumen mastic, clay or concrete with liquid glass additives;
make a blind area from a sheet of roofing material - fix it 0.5 m above the ground level and bring it over the edges outer wall basement;
fill the hole.

External insulation can be supplemented with a drainage system

Internal waterproofing basement

After completing external work, you can also insulate the basement or cellar from the inside. This is done like this:

dry the room;
remove all loose coatings and whitewash;
find and clear all the cracks;
saturate the walls with an antifungal drug;
apply a waterproofing compound;
if desired, plaster the walls at a height of 0.5-1 m from the floor.

Instead of applying plaster, you can treat the walls with a waterproofing compound

Floor work to eliminate moisture

If moisture penetrates the walls, hits the floor and evaporates, you should also do floor covering... The floor and walls should be concreted using liquid glass and roofing.

You can also follow simple algorithm(if you have a clay floor):

remove a layer of clay about 5 cm thick;
level the floor surface and cover it with two layers of waterproofing film;
sprinkle it on top with clay or pour concrete and level the surface.

Use only cement-based putties, as their gypsum counterparts actively absorb moisture

When seasonal flooding of the site use a different method:

Spread a layer of sand or gravel about 10 cm thick on the floor to prevent flooding by groundwater. Add more gravel if necessary if groundwater seeps through the drainage layer;
apply a special waterproofing plaster on the walls;
place in the corners of the cellar glass jars with calcium chloride (it will absorb excess moisture). For one cellar, no more than 0.5-1 kg of powder is required;
sprinkle the floor with 1 cm of quicklime - it will absorb excess moisture and dry the room. To combat mold and mildew, you can slake lime right in the basement. Pour some lime into an empty container and fill it with water. The vapors released will kill germs and mold.

It is better to leave the room during the release of lime vapors. Return there in an hour and immediately arrange ventilation for a few hours.

Folk methods of dealing with dampness

You can normalize the humidity level in the cellar using folk remedies:

dry the walls of the cellar with clay bricks. Place 2-3 heated bricks in different corners of the basement. When they cool down, they will begin to absorb moisture. To achieve maximum effect, they can be reused; to get rid of mold, treat the walls of the cellar with vinegar or boric acid(dilute 20 ml of acid in 1 liter of water), you can use citric acid(dissolve 100 g of powder in 1 liter of water); take out all the products stored there from the basement or cellar and treat the damp walls with diesel fuel, and then whitewash them.

Removing dampness and mold is a rather laborious process. Therefore, you need to take care of the organization of drainage and waterproofing in advance, then you will not have to deal with high humidity. What methods of dealing with dampness do you know?

Any living space requires maintaining optimal humidity levels. Particular attention must be paid to controlling humidity levels in basements and garage cellars. To do this, they are equipped with good ventilation and waterproofing. But what to do if there is still water in the cellar? In this case, garage owners need to immediately take measures to dry the cellar. How to do it correctly, and what are the ways to dry the cellars from moisture - read in our article.

Why does moisture accumulate in the cellar

The main reason for the high humidity in the garage cellar is poor waterproofing or its complete absence. Due to mistakes made during the construction phase of a garage with a cellar, moisture gradually begins to accumulate in the room, and condensation appears on the walls. Consequently high humidity- an ugly plaque (fungus) appears on the walls. This phenomenon is unacceptable for cellars in which food is stored, therefore it is important to carry out high-quality drying of the room in a timely manner.

Methods for drying the cellar in the garage

The constant accumulation of moisture in the cellar negatively affects the condition of the entire structure. Several methods can be used to dry the cellar in the garage. The most effective of these are candles and a brazier (metal stove, photo 1).

Important! Before you start drying the cellar, you need to conduct a good audit in it, remove the shelves, and take the interfering equipment and supplies upstairs. When all the debris is removed from it, the room is dried with outside air to remove excess moisture, and then a method is chosen to normalize the humidity level.

There are two most known methods combating excess moisture in the basement of the garage.

Attention! If there is a lot of water in the basement, then before drying it must be pumped out with a pump, or manually scooped out. It is important to determine what is the source of the water in the cellar. Poor insulation may be to blame. But it may also be such that the room was built next to the spring. In this case, you need to divert the water to the side with a pump and equip the cellar with good waterproofing.

Arrangement of waterproofing in a damp basement

To dry the basement in the garage to be effective, you need to take care of the arrangement of external and internal insulation. You can create it yourself without involving specialists. You can purchase materials for external and internal drainage at a hardware store.

Arrangement external drainage(scheme 3) in the cellar involves the creation of a system for removing excess moisture outside the room. It is best to equip the exterior during the construction stage of the garage, but you can perform waterproofing in an already finished room if the humidity level increases greatly. The principle of creating external waterproofing is as follows:

A trench is being dug along the outer perimeter of the structure (it should be 50 cm lower than the floor level in the cellar);
Drainages in the form of plastic pipes are installed along the entire length of the dug trench (for them, wells must be prepared in advance to a depth of the first layer of sand). The upper part of the drains must be covered with a metal mesh (this will prevent contamination of the entire system);
Geotextile waterproofing material is laid at the bottom of the trench (it should also go to the walls);
The finished drainage channel is filled with crushed stone to a height of 40 cm. The crushed stone layer should be larger than the floor line in the cellar;
The embankment is well rammed.

Scheme 3

Internal drainage(scheme 4) will allow the cellar to dry out much faster. For its arrangement, the following materials are needed: geotextile waterproofing, crushed stone and gravel, drainage tubes, drainage pump, PVC container, sand. Pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room to collect excess water... The diameter of these pipes can be different, but it is best to choose designs with a diameter of 110 mm. It is better to deal with the arrangement of the internal drainage system in the basement of the garage during the construction phase. Otherwise, you will have to dismantle the floor in order to lay all the structural elements of the system.

Internal drainage in the garage cellar is laid in accordance with the following scheme:

They dig a trench about 50 cm deep around the entire perimeter of the room;
The bottom is tamped well, then a geoseptic is placed on it (this material perfectly absorbs moisture, thereby performing the function of waterproofing);
A layer of fine-grained material (gravel, crushed stone) with a thickness of 20 cm is laid in the trench;
Pipes are laid on top of the embankment, maintaining an angle of inclination of 3 mm;
On top of the laid pipes, a layer of gravel is again poured, but already of the middle fraction. The material is well rammed and a layer of geotextile is laid on it;
The final action in this case will be backfilling the trench with sand and soil (taken out during digging), thorough tamping.

Scheme 4

There is another method effective drying cellars in the basement - injection protection(diagram 5). This method belongs to the most expensive, but at the same time it is the most effective. When using this method, the waterproofing in the cellar is equipped using injections. Naturally, specialized equipment will be required to perform such work. The injection drying method is recommended for garages built of concrete, bricks and foam blocks. The injection drying technology looks like this:

Holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 4 mm are drilled around the entire perimeter of the damp basement. A distance of 20-80 cm must be observed between adjacent holes. In each case, the parameter will be different and depend on the level of moisture, wall thickness and soil characteristics;
Special elements are inserted into the prepared holes, through which the pump is introduced liquid waterproofing or polymers;
The advantages of such waterproofing are obvious. There is no need to dismantle the cladding from the walls, breakage building structures... In addition, work on the arrangement of waterproofing in this way can be carried out in any weather, at any time of the year.

High humidity in the cellar appears for various reasons. First of all, it is necessary to find out why it has increased, take measures to eliminate it, and then bring it back to normal. At the last stage, disinfect if necessary. In any case, without proper ventilation and waterproofing, the problem will appear again and again. Therefore, before you dry the cellar, check whether the ventilation pipes are clogged, whether the waterproofing has suffered.

Preventing dampness

As usual, this "disease" is easier (and cheaper) to prevent than to cure. It is still being solved at the design stage:

Inspecting the floor

Very often in the cellar, the floor is made earthen. It is often the source of excess moisture. Through it, the moisture contained in the soil gets inside. To reduce the humidity in the cellar, you need to level the earthen floor, tamp it and cover it with a thick plastic wrap. You can use roofing material, but it breaks more often. Although it seems to be more durable, it breaks due to less elasticity.

It is not necessary to pour sand or earth on top of the film. Sometimes it turns out in the basement a large number of water (accidental flooding). Then you simply take out the film, the water partly goes into the ground, partly evaporates through the ventilation. After the dampness is gone, you can cover the floor again. If there is earth or sand on top, you will need to poke around in this slurry, extracting a film.

If the floor in the cellar is earthen, most of the moisture enters through it.

If, after laying the film, the moisture level in the cellar has dropped, then you have found the reason. You can leave everything as it is, only periodically change the "flooring", or you can make a concrete floor with full waterproofing. The choice is yours. To prevent the film from tearing when walked on, knock down the wooden shields and throw them on the floor.

Improving waterproofing

The second reason why humidity rises in the basement is an insufficient degree of vapor barrier or waterproofing of the walls. This usually occurs if the cellar is lined with bricks, especially silicate bricks. The material is very hygroscopic and passes water vapor well. They settle in drops on the ceiling and all objects.

The problem can be solved if you make good external waterproofing: dig out the walls and apply bituminous mastic in two layers. Previously, they were coated with resin, but the mastic is more effective and easier to handle.

But excavation- it is not always a joy, and it is not always possible to dig out the walls. In this case, you can make the internal waterproofing of the walls of the cellar. For this, there are cement-based impregnations: Pnetron, Kalmatron, Hydrotex, etc. They penetrate to a depth of up to half a meter into the thickness of the material (concrete, brick, etc.) and block the capillaries through which water seeps. Water permeability decreases significantly. Their only drawback is the price. But they are really effective.

All of these measures will prevent excessive moisture in the basement. But what if there is already moisture, how to dry the cellar? Next, let's look at ways to reduce humidity.

Preparatory work

All supplies are taken out of the basement, as well as all wooden structures, they are well cleaned. On the street they inspect wood - shelves / boxes / boxes. If they have not suffered, and there is no fungus or mold, they are simply laid out in the sun to dry. If there are traces of damage, the wood is impregnated with a solution of copper sulfate (concentration 5-10%, no more).

Whitewashing with lime gives good results - it will also "collect" moisture from the air. Therefore, before draining the basement, it makes sense to whitewash everything. Only they do it differently from the outside. Apply a thick layer of lime to the walls. To do this, make a bucket of thick whitewash, add a little diluted copper sulfate. He is an excellent disinfectant, but the concentration should not be higher than 5%, maximum - 10. The resulting thick liquid is poured in half into two containers.

The first half is lowered into the basement, dressed in old clothes, put on glasses, covered their hands. Take paint brush for whitewashing (it looks more like a small broom) and the corners are well coated with it. Then use a brush to spread the liquid and spray it on the walls and ceiling. Just dip in thick whitewash and spray on the walls. They are covered with drops, bumps of lime.

After everything is covered with lime, wait a day until it dries. Repeat everything with the second bucket. As a result, the walls and ceiling are porous and uneven. But condensation rarely hangs on them: lime keeps moisture inside well. After the lime has dried, you can start drying the cellar.

Basement drainage with ventilation

Sometimes it happens like this: it was dry in the cellar, but suddenly there was dampness. One of the reasons is poor ventilation. First of all, check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts. Clean if necessary. If everything is fine, but the dampness does not go away, then the chimney is not working well. This happens when the air in the cellar is colder than outside. Heavy and cold, he himself will not climb the pipe. At first glance, a paradoxical situation arises: it was cold and damp outside - it was dry in the cellar. It got warmer - drops of moisture hung on the ceiling, walls and objects, a musty smell appeared. In this case, in order to dry the cellar, it is necessary to activate the movement of air. There are several solutions.

Sometimes the increased air movement leads to the fact that the humidity in the cellar does not decrease, but increases. This can often be seen in hot weather. The reason is this. The heated air carries with it a significant amount of moisture in the form of vapors. Getting into a cool cellar, the air cools down, and moisture condenses on the coldest surfaces: the ceiling, walls, sometimes on shelves and cans. If you have just such a case, then stop ventilation. You even close the supply pipe and close the lid well, limiting the flow of warm air.

How to dry the cellar in this case? Wait until autumn, and when there is no rain yet, but the temperature is already about + 10 ° C, start ventilation using one of the methods suggested above. Works. If your nights are cold in summer, you can turn on the fan at night, and close the ventilation ducts during the day. In this way, you can gradually reduce the humidity in the cellar in the summer.

We heat the cellar

If it is necessary to remove dampness even during warm weather, and ventilation only worsens the situation, you need to heat the air in the basement so that it goes outside by itself, carrying away moisture (the higher the air temperature, the more vapors it can contain).

To do this, take an old bucket or other metal container of about the same volume. They make many holes in it (you can use an ax) in the bottom and walls. Such a leaky bucket is tied to a cable (fasten securely). Coals for kebabs are poured inside (you can burn it yourself), the bucket should be almost full. The coals are kindled and stable combustion is achieved (to accelerate combustion, you can adapt the vacuum cleaner by turning it on for blowing). A bucket with embers is lowered on a cable into the cellar, fixed so that it hangs above the bottom, and the lid is closed.

Periodically, the cellar lid must be opened, letting in an additional portion of oxygen (every 20-30 minutes). You can put a fan on the supply pipe or periodically turn on the same vacuum cleaner. If the coals are still extinguished, they are kindled again.

Attention! It is better not to climb inside, to do everything from above. Firstly, the temperature there is high (in the room about 2 * 3 meters about 70 ° C), and secondly, smoke and, perhaps, carbon monoxide accumulates inside.

As the coals burned out, the bucket was taken out, the lid was closed. Do not look inside for three days: smoke and gases will kill the mold and at the same time with drying you will disinfect your cellar. Usually one such "furnace" is enough to dry out the basement in the house or on the street. Likewise, you can get rid of dampness in the basement under the garage.

Sometimes instead of charcoal use coke or coal... It gives a higher temperature and takes longer "processing", but it burns more difficult, requires more oxygen, often forced blowing (adapt old vacuum cleaner and a corrugated hose, but turn it on for blowing). But the temperature rises even higher and dries even more efficiently. But the price of coke is high, even though buying a bucket will not go broke.

Instead of a bucket of burning coal, you can use other heaters:

a propane burner (lower the burning one on the wire, make sure that it does not light anything and leave it hanging in the middle, as tired, close the valve, you can open the lid only every other day);
a heat gun of decent power (3-5 kW);
kirogas;
lower the potbelly stove into the basement and heat it.

All these methods can be used, but you have to go down into the cellar in order to ignite the pyrogas or potbelly stove. And this is an unsafe undertaking and do not use this method alone. You need someone to belay you upstairs. Regarding the heat gun: it is also better to lower it by tying (tying) a rope, and not to lower it yourself.

How to dry a basement in a garage is described in the video.

How to dry a cellar without ventilation

If ventilation was not done during construction, it is advisable to arrange it now. At least some: getting rid of dampness will be easier. Better, of course, two pipes - one for the inflow, the second for the outflow - as described at the beginning of the article. If the cellar is made separately on the street, it is easier to organize: they pierced the ground and the roof of the cellar, inserted pipes, poured everything with concrete mortar.

It is more difficult with a garage, but no one clings to aesthetics here. But if the basement is without ventilation under the house, it is more difficult to do everything: it is better not to break the foundation, and you cannot stretch many pipes through the floor into the room. But even in this case, make at least one pipe. Even through the lid, take it out into the wall or ceiling, put a supply and exhaust fan. It can be turned on now for supply, then for the hood and in this way at least somehow dry the cellar.

With at least such ventilation, you can use any of the methods described above. You can also try to collect more moisture. For this inside lay out hygroscopic materials:

If all these dances with tambourines do not inspire confidence in you (although they work), you can dry the cellar using modern technology... There are such Appliances —household dehumidifiers... They are often placed in swimming pools to get rid of dampness in the room. You will need a medium power model. They cost about 20-30 thousand rubles, they work from a household network of 220 V. In the process, they collect moisture from the air into a special container. You will need to drain the water periodically.

One way to dry out a damp basement is by installing a household dehumidifier.

Disinfection and fight against fungi and mold

The increased humidity in the cellar leads to the fact that mold and fungi appear on the walls, ceiling shelves different types and flowers, and all this beauty is accompanied by "aromas". In this case, all that can be taken out of the cellar - take out and lay out to dry. Wooden shelves, boxes, boards, racks, after drying, whitewash with lime with the addition of a solution of copper sulfate. Better twice.

In the cellar, clean off all growths from the walls and ceiling, whitewash with lime with copper sulfate twice (the technology is described at the beginning of the article). Before the main drying, special measures can be taken that will destroy the spores (or neutralize them for a while).

Lime vapor

Place the barrel in the cellar and sprinkle with quicklime. Lime is taken at the rate of 3 kg per 1 cubic meter of volume. In a barrel of lime, there should be a maximum, a little more than half. Pour water over everything. Do not interfere. Crawl out quickly and tightly (hermetically) close the lid and all ventilation ducts. You can open it in two days, ventilate well, then you can go down.

Repeat the treatment after 7-10 days. Lime vapor should burn out mold and fungi, destroy insects and their larvae. They also deal with the smells of dampness and musty very effectively. True, the cellar will smell of lime for several days.

Sulfur (smoke) bombs

Use a sulfur checker. They are sold in shops selling seeds or household stock. Each has instructions. But, in short, you need to act according to the following scheme:

take out all metal things, if this is not possible, cover them with a layer of grease - grease or something similar.
You set fire to the wick of the sulfuric checker, it starts to smolder.
Get out quickly, close the lid and ventilation ducts tightly, leave for 5-6 hours.

If the basement is in the house, it is advisable to leave it during processing: a couple of breaths with insufficient tightness and the lungs will need to be put in order for a long time.

Disinfection occurs due to the formation of sulfuric acid. It is obtained by the reaction of sulfuric anhydride and water. Therefore, mold is more efficiently killed with a sulfur checker in wet cellars.

After 5-6 hours (or after the time indicated on the package), open the ventilation channels and the lid (in this order). Leave it open for at least 12 hours. Remains of gases are eroded during this time. You can go in.

From the experience of operating such checkers, we can say that they need to be lit twice as much as normal. Then everything will really be rendered harmless.

Mold remover

Sometimes white fluffy growth appears on wood or walls. This is a type of fungus. It can be dealt with by the methods described above, but if only it is present, you can find a means for removing solid polyurethane foam(sold in the same place as foam). Insert the tube into assembly gun and apply to places with fungus. It instantly begins to roll up. And then at this place does not appear.

Spreading on the floor

If your floor is earthen, lay a dense plastic wrap(for what - described above), shoot down wooden lattice and throw them on the floor. Scatter pieces of slaked lime under them. And they will collect moisture and create "bad" conditions for the fungi.

How to dry a basement after flooding

If the flooding was accidental, you need to pump out the water in any available way, and then proceed according to the standard scheme:

Take out everything you can from their cellars.
Leave all lid and air vents open for a while.
When more or less dry, remove debris, fungi, mold from the walls and floor.
Whitewash with lime.
Dry in one of the ways.

If the flooding is periodic - in the spring, for example, you will have to do a full drainage system, and this is a separate conversation.

All of the above methods of how to dry a cellar are mostly based on practical experience... They are used everywhere and very often. In one case, one method works, in the other, another. Your task is to find the most effective one for your situation.