Ventilation system in high-rise buildings. How to make natural ventilation in a private house to make a ventilation box in an apartment building

As you know, the hoods for the kitchen are classic and recycling. The first carries the air into the ventilation shaft or straight to the street.

Recycling just drives him through himself, delaying fat. It in its design has filters for cleaning air from smell.

The main questions and problems occur when installing and connecting the classic option. His and consider in the most detail.

To begin with, briefly list the main mistakes that you lie on this path. Next, we will give ways to solve them and the most popular mounting methods.

Errors when installing kitchen hood

1 Deaf connection of the duct to natural ventilation is the most common error.

Some of course leaves the lattice for the natural movement of air, but it still worms at the same time to block it with the air duct itself.

2 Attachment of too small duplex duct through an adapter, to a powerful exhaust with a large output flange.
3 The output of the duct into the street through a homemade hole in the wall.

In most cases, it is prohibited by the rules. Next, the text will contain specific items.

You can, of course, lay on the facade a separate box straight to the roof. But it is worth it? Although in restaurants and cafes located on the first floors of high-rise buildings, such a solution is widely applied.

By the way, the ban on the output of air into the street through the wall does not apply to private homes, but only to multi-storey.

4 Complex geometry of the track with a large number of transitions and curvatures.

First of all it will affect noise. Although of course the turns themselves are not the greatest evil. And without them sometimes do not do.

It is dangerous to turns that go one by one without accelerating sites.

5 Connecting too powerful exhaust (for example, 1000 m3 / h), to standard ventkalanal, which is capable of skipping about 300 m3 / h.

Remember that performance in 200-300 m3 / h happens quite enough to remove all odors, with minimal ventilation load at home.

6 Installing an exhaust on the wrong height.

The installation height directly depends on what kind of plate you have - gas or cooking induction.

7 Assembling plastic ventilation without a good seal, or docking parts on superciles.

Believe me, sometimes this design has to be disassembled.

8 top, and not the lower location of the slots in the decorative grid in one frame with the air duct.

Why this is a mistake, and when you still do it, you can still say.

9 Lack of a separate outlet in the top of the wall under the hood.

As a consequence, the connection of it is like, through carrying and extension cords. Do not forget that ultimately this is still not a portable device, such as a fan, heater or mobile air conditioner.

And it means that the wiring must be made stationary and with the mind.

10 Incorrect installation of the check valve.

It is necessary to embed and install it in compliance with the corresponding angles and slopes. Otherwise, it will work every time.

In general, the installation of drawing can be divided into two main stages. First, it is its connection to electricity. The second is the duct device and everything connected with it.

Let's consider separately each of them.

Connecting an exhaust to electricity

This stage is the most simple. It is very good when you initially planning your kitchen, well laid the location of all sockets and electric fir.

As it is also not to make a bunch of elementary errors and observe all distances, you can find in a separate article.

If you have no free outlet for drawing, you will have to mount it. To do this, you will need the following materials:

In the home wiring, use the cable of this brand (with the LS index).

• Conventional current socket 16A with grounding contacts

Hood itself, unlike other kitchen appliances, is a low-power device. Accordingly, it is not necessary to pull the separate wiring for it directly from the shield.

What you can not say about the cooking panel or dishwasher.

It turns out that you can connect this unit from the total socket group with the nearest distribution unit.

Try from the distribution machine to the stroke or cable channel to the place of the future socket and mount the opposition.

This socket is located on top, almost under the ceiling, slightly higher or on the side of the hood. The choice of a particular place will depend on the length of the cord and the requirements of the minimum height of the extraction unit set over the stove.

Often you have to cut a hole in the nearest kitchen cabinet.

Next, remove isolation from the cable, label the veins and connect them between themselves in the distribution unit.

All that remains is to connect the socket correctly.

Wiring for the kitchen aggregate is ready. Go to the air duct.

Incorrect connection of the air duct to ventilation

The main problem when installing is to correctly connect the air duct and at the same time not to disturb the natural ventilation in the apartment.

Some of the craftsmen generally advises to bring the whole thing to the street, through the nearest wall. However, it is prohibited to do so to do so.

There it is clearly stipulated that a similar hole cannot be placed closer than 8m from the adjacent window. Since this window is considered an outdoor air supply device.

Here, familiarize yourself with the points of the SP54 and SP60 rules.

That is, drill a healthy hole in the wall, spend a bunch of nerves and money, and the neighbor will complain about you, and you will be obliged to close it all.

How does the connection take from most consumers? An ordinary corrugation is taken, it is satisfied with the exit, stretched and attached to the flange, which screws to the ventilation hole.

That's all. Just cheap and wrong. What are the disadvantages of this method? First of the noise.

When air passes through such a ribbed corrugation, it makes extremely unpleasant sounds.

But the most important thing is when the device is disabled and does not work, natural ventilation is forced to stretch the air from the apartment through the hood. Not only does your box can be scored, and in the summer, the thrust is sometimes not observed at all (due to the same temperature at home and on the street).

Moreover, on the path of the air you actually put a grid mesh, engine, turbine, etc. And also, air susso will occur not at the ceiling level, but at the level of the middle of the kitchen.

Although the fence of all the smells of life products, just the same and should be carried out with a maximum height.

It is quite clear that there will be no traction in this case. That is, you are your own hands, deprive yourself of natural ventilation.

It threatens the occurrence of fungus, high humidity. In the offseason, you know elementary to swell and closed the doors badly.

And the oxygen deficiency will appear and constantly bad well-being. Someone hits the mystics at the same time and begins to think that they have damage or an apartment with a bad energy, and in fact, it is wrong - wrong ventilation!

Initially, in Soviet times, designing our multi-storey houses, engineers were calculated that the air in the apartment would be received including due to looser in wooden windows.

However, with the installation of plastic windows and hermetic doors, we thus blocked this channel of fresh air in the house. Close also ventilation and you will live like in a submarine.

To correct the situation in such cases, it is recommended to put a damping valve on a plastic window.

Instead of clogging, you can make more and more competently. What alternative options for this are applied?

Air duct from hood and grille with check valve

The first - instead of corrugations, a plastic tube is taken (for example D-125mm), and through one or more knees is displayed in the hole of the ventka. At the same time, in the hole itself under the ceiling, some separation is made.

From above, an approach is mounted under the pipe, and a small rectangle for a natural tributary is left from the bottom through the lattice with the valve.

Moreover, the lattice must be exactly the bottom, and not on top. Otherwise, the airflow from the exhaust, will poison up and lift, the so-called check valve.

Although of course, if you have a more perfect valve design - a circle or a rectangle with a displaced axis, and not simple polyethylene strips, or a solid partition is present, then you can safely put as you want - from above, on the side, bottom.

However, in fact, all this design often works not as thought. When the exhaust aggregate and pressure creation is turned on, the small part of the dust still seeps through the slots, microcelness, after which, safely falls into your kitchen on the dining table.

No check valves are 100% saved. The bulk of the air of course comes out, but the gradual formation of dust inside the apartment is a fact.

Yes, and when the exhaust is turned off due to a decrease in the diameter of the original opening, natural ventilation through narrow gratings will be at times worse.

You can do everything much better.

Proper duct connection to ventilation system

To do this, you will need:

In the end, you should have about this design.

How does it all work? When the hood is turned off, the valve will be open and warm air from the kitchen will calmly go away in the ventilation channel. You should turn on the exhaust umbrella, the valve immediately automatically closes, overlapping access to the air flow into the room.

At the same time, all odors from the slab will calmly go outside. When disconnected, the pressure in the box falls and the valve independently folds down, connecting the ventilation mine with the apartment.

Assembly Instructions - All Figures and Performance

How is it all going to practice? For capacity up to 300 m3 / h (small speeds of most hoods), there is enough pipe D-125mm. On the device itself, the outlet can be large.

For example, for 650 m3 / h, the D-150mm pipe will be needed. However, such plastic pipes you can hardly find, and if you use the following standard D-160mm size size, it will turn out a huge and clumsy design, spoiling the entire interior and kitchen design.

Moreover, it will have to hammer in the wall of the Ventkanal's factory hole, expanding it.

Therefore, in most cases and choose the optimal diameter of 125mm. And you do not need more.

Forced bandwidth of standard channels and mines with dimensions of 100 * 150mm - 400 m3 / h.

The air flow of more than 450 m3 / hs there will simply do not fit (it was checked in practice), even if you have an exhaust and written - 1200 m3 / h!

Remember that it is impossible to undress through the CHUR through the CHUR in comparison with the outlet nozzle on the exhaust. Otherwise, the vibration and noise will be such a force that the design every month will have to be bonded again.

The connection of different diameters is done using special adapters.

We start assembling. At the beginning, install the adapter on the exhaust and make it a connection of the vertical site.

To improve its sound insulation, it makes sense to be fascinated and placed on top of the heat-soundproofing material with a thickness of 5mm.

It does not prevent them from the inside to puncture the decorative casing and the most noisy part is an adapter. It is there that the greatest turbulence is observed.

All this gluits silicone, no superclas. There should be no cracks anywhere.

We reach the tee. A valve is installed on it from the room.

Keep in mind that this is a gravitational valve! It opens not at the expense of air flow, but at the expense of its weight.

He has one half heavier than the other and at the same time it is installed at a low angle of 2 degrees.

Preparation of the opening of the ventilation shaft

At the very ventilation shaft itself to all installation work, it is advisable to plaster and remove all sharp corners. This will give the entrance to the maximum aerodynamic qualities.

As a result, you should get about the same surface as in the standard round knee under 90 degrees.

In the solution for plastering, the ceresite liquid is advised to add (CERESIT CT99).

This hole will be under the influence of fat and moisture. And ceresit contains components that impede the formation of mold.

At the same time, in no case do not use the plaster plaster. Its use in ventilation mines is a direct path to the appearance of this mold and fungi.

The segments of a standard duct are attached to the teach on both sides. From the walls of the wall on the 5-7cm, they strove it into Ventkanal. The output itself is adding a square frame.

Why the check valve sometimes does not work and does not close

From the side of the kitchen on the tee is mounted check valve. In factory execution, it will be quite long. In this case, it is better to shorten it, so that this "gun" is not very sticking out.

The valve is inserted inside the segment of the standard D-125mm duct, and this air duct has been dressed and it is evident to the tee.

If all this design seemed to you too cumbersome, and the protruding tube with the valve is not too aesthetic, you can do somewhat differently. Do the air duct not a round pipe, but by rectangular channels.

At the same time, the above check valve cut on the straight area, as close as possible to the rotation.

The factory connection is not to achieve here, so you have to collective me. A rectangular tee is bought with a round yield on one side.
Next, this rounder is cut and the check valve is inserted into its place.

The valve is placed strictly at an angle (2 degrees). Otherwise, it will open with you once or not to open at all.

Many with this problem came across and easily solved it in this way.

The damper itself is also mounted with a vertical deviation. The upper rotary point, if proceeding from the hourly dial, is located at 13.00 (1 hour), and the lower at 17.00 (5 hours). This is if you have a flow direction to the right - left.

Otherwise, the circle is put in position 11 hours - 7 hours.

For more reliable operation and stable opening of the flap, you can stick a certain sweeping on one of the parties (no more than 2 grams). Print it closer to the edge.

By the way, sliced \u200b\u200bearlier round nozzle do not throw away. It is tightly inserted on the valve from above, after which the decorative lattice is mounted, the diffuser.

What nuances can be with this method? If your extractor stands exactly above the entrance to the ventilation mine, and the channel tube goes directly, without any turns in the horizontal plane, the valve installed on such a direct portion is not working normally, at least at the 1st speed.

You just have nowhere to take high pressure for its closure. The air in a straight line will fly this "turn." Be sure to need an angle.

The valve cover and its swivel mechanisms are easily cleaned and do not be afraid that they taught fat. To make it happen, you every day for a few hours a day, you have to fry on the stove and extinguish in your oven huge boars, no less.

If you do not want to see the sticking "hollow" under the ceiling, then as an option, you can install a tee in such a way that the arms of the knee rests on the wall, and where it is worth the valve, it would be looked in the side. In this case, the hole also close the decorative lid.

Everything will look much more nice. However, due to additional turn, the productivity of natural ventilation will deteriorate slightly. And the lattice will reduce it even twenty percent.

In addition, the possibility of cleaning the canal with hand or vacuum cleaner will disappear. But many go to it consciously and even hide the entire design into a wooden or plastic box.

As they say, beauty requires victims.

Why does the air from the kitchen fall to the neighbors - is the extractant?

Despite all the advantages, there is a lot of critics at a similar hood connection system. They believe that in a similar way you rudely interfere with the overall ventilation system of the whole house.

For example, you will be fine, but did you think about your neighbors? Allegedly because of such an exhaust connection to ventilation, all odors from your kitchen will automatically penetrate the rising apartments above.

Began to fry the pies, and all the neighbors already know about it. However, all critics are mistaken, based on the incorrect ideas of the ventilation device in apartment buildings.

They think that from Niza to the top there is one common channel 110 * 150mm with "holes" for each apartment.

In fact, in 5 stores, all channels are individual and blew out foreign smells of neighbors you can hardly work. In homes from 6 floors and higher, the ventilation system is already underway with air removal through the channels of satellites communicating with the general precast channel through one floor.

This common channel has an area of \u200b\u200b6-8 times large than individual mines to apartments with sizes 110 * 150mm.

Sketchically, such a system of ventilation of a multi-storey house can be represented like this.

Yes, in such buildings, if you simultaneously include a few hoods, a reverse thrust may appear. But this is an extremely rare case.

See - Natural thrust from apartments at best ranges from 100 to 150 m3 / h. You have a nine-story house. The first seven floors are embedded in a common channel with dimensions of 510 * 270mm, or even more. The final natural flow in it is about 1000 m3 / h.

And here you instead of the usual traction in 150, turn on your exhaust 300 m3 / h. Do you think she is able to create in this case the reverse craving and start swelling the air to the neighbors?

For this it is necessary that all 6 floors do the same thing, moreover at maximum speed.

Then, some kind of one apartment is not lucky and its inhabitants will have to sniff all the fragrances of the cooking neighbors. But this option is unlikely.

Despite all this, sometimes the air really gets into other apartments at home. Or vice versa, you feel great that the neighbors are fried today for lunch. What is this happening and where to look for the cause?

This happens in several circumstances. What, read more expanded under the spoiler.

Why the smell of your apartment penetrates the neighbors

Extraction installation illegality

Nevertheless, if your home is initially designed only for a hood with a natural motion, and you have harmful neighbors, then any installation of powerful apparatuses with mechanical forced circulation may be illegal.

Neighbors may refer to the "Government Decision". There is such a two-point paragraph 3.4 "On approval of the regulations for the use of the Housing Fund."

You can turn it in any direction. Surely there are similar decrees in other regions. There is also an article 3.14.13.

So be careful with the installation of exhaust umbrellas over the plates.

Although the same rules are recommended to install check valves for all ventilation grilles, in all apartments. That is, as it is, it is said that this is not forbidden to put a hood, and all others need to take care of yourself just in case.

But then the question is how to whom the neighbors are lucky.

Natural ventilation channels

For effective ventilation, each house of the house must necessarily have two ventilation devices: One thing - for air inflow, other - to remove air from the room.

Each room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust device of natural ventilation by one of three options:

1. Patch valve In the window or outer wall for air inflow. Pretty hole In adjoint room with an exhaust channel for air removal (hole in the door or inner wall, partition).
2. For air inflow - pretty hole from the adjacent room with the supply valve, and exhaust canal
3. Valve valve for influx, and exhaust canal ventilation to remove air.

Check out in a house or apartment where you now live, whether all the premises have a supply and exhaust ventilation devices?!

In what premises need to make exhaust ventilation channels

The exhaust channels of natural ventilation must be envisaged from the following houses at home:

• Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, worship.
• Kitchen.
• Wardrobe, pantry - if the doors of the premises go to the living room. If the doors go into the corridor (hall, kitchen), you can make one of two: arrange an exhaust channel from the room or install a trim valve in the wall or window.
• In the room boiler room there should be ventilation channel and a trimming valve.
• From rooms separated from rooms with ventilation channel by more than two doors.
• On the floor above the first, in the presence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor - ventilation channels are made from the premises indicated above, or (s) from the corridor, the hall.
• On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor - in each floor room, the ventilation channel and a trim valve are organized.

In other rooms at home that do not have exhaust channels of natural ventilation, be sure to install a trim valve in the window or in the wall and a stream in the adjacent room.

In addition, natural ventilation exhaust channels are arranged for ventilation:

• Calicizing pipe rising.

Construction Rules (paragraph 6.5.8 SP 60.13330.2016) require in residential buildings for premises in which gas equipment is located (gas boilers, water columns, kitchen stoves, etc.), provide for mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical supply ventilation.

Location and sizes of ventilation channels

The minimum side of the channel of natural ventilation - 10 cm., And the minimum cross section area - 0.016 m 2.., What approximately corresponds to the diameter of the standard tube pipe - 150 mM..

The minimum size channel will provide an air extractor in the amount of 30 m 3 / hour With the length of the vertical pipe more than 3 m.. To enhance the performance of the drawing, increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe channel cross section or the length of the channel. Channels less than 2 m.. Do not provide the necessary intensity of natural ventilation.

In practice, the length of the ventilation channel on the floor is usually given by constructive considerations - the number and height above the upper floors, the height of the attic, the pipe over the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels should be the same. This is done so that the thrust force in each channel on the floor was approximately the same.

The size of the cross section of the channels on the floor is often made the same, but already from the design considerations - it is more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in one or another floor room is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.

Ventilation channels from houses at home on different floors are placed nearby, combining them into the ventilation channel block.

Of the constructive considerations, several ventilation channels from the premises of one floor are trying to laughing nearby, in one place - create a block of ventilation channels.

The ventilation channels in the stone houses are usually placed inside the carrier inner wall of the house or attach to the wall.

The block is laid out of masonry materials, such as bricks. In the brick laying, it is convenient to make channels with a cross section, a multiple brick size, taking into account the thickness of the seams - 140x140 mM.. (1/2 x 1/2 brick, 196 cM 2.) or 140x270. mM.. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cM 2.)

Block Ceramzite-concrete ventilating two-channel 390x190x188 mm. Passage section of single channel 168 cM 2.
Concrete blocks for masonry ventilation channels in a private house. Block height 33. cm., width 25. cm., wall thickness 4 cm. Passage section of one channel 12x17 cm. (204 cM 2.)

Release hollow concrete blocks specifically designed to masonry ventilation channels.

Ventilation channels from masonry materials must necessarily have a support for the foundation or reinforced concrete overlap.

In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, a block of ventilation channels are collected from plastic or steel galvanized pipes. The block from the pipes is closed by a box.

How multiple channels merge into one channel

In a private house, the number of channels is small, so combine air flows from several channels (premises or floors) to one, as often do in apartment buildings, there is no need. Each channel of natural ventilation in a private house should begin indoors and end in the headside of the roof. Any combination of two or more channels worsens ventilation.

In some cases, there is still a need for several channels to combine, combine into one common channel of natural ventilation.

Read:

Ventilation channel performance

Performance of a single channel exhaust ventilation cross section 12x17 cm.(204 cM 2.) From concrete blocks, depending on the height of the channel and the room temperature:

Channel performance of natural ventilation by cross section 12 x 17 cm.(204 cM 2.) depending on the height of the channel and the temperature in the room (at an outdoor temperature 12 About S.)

To determine the performance for intermediate channel height values, build a chart of dependency on the axes: the height of the channel and performance.

Such tables can be found for ventilation channels that are made from other materials.

However, for ventilation channels of the same section (204 cM 2.), but made of other materials, the performance will differ from the table specified in the table.

For a channel of another section, the magnitude of the performance from the table is permissible to increase or decrease proportionally.

To increase the performance of the ventilation channel of the same height, it is necessary proportional Increase the channel cross section. For this, for example, choose a concrete block with a larger hole, or used for ventilation of one room two or three channels of the above size.

Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house

In the construction rules, the minimum necessary productivity of natural ventilation channels is indicated. Usually people feel better when more fresh air is fed into the room than indicated in the rules. The productivity of the natural ventilation channel is very dependent on atmospheric and other changeable factors (air temperature inside and outside, pressure and wind direction, resistance to the air flow). All this suggests that for a private house there is no point in scrupulously to accurately calculate. I recommend rounding the calculation results in the direction of greater productivity of the channels of natural ventilation. During operation, if required, the bandwidth can be easily reduced.

The calculation of natural ventilation is made to determine the size of the ventilation channels based on the volume of the removed air.

When determining the amount of air removed through the channels of natural ventilation, it is counted that the air comes from the street into rooms with the supply valves, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust channels, and removed through the channels again to the street.

Calculation lead for each floor Houses in the following sequence:

1. Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum air volume that should come from the street for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q n, m 3 / hour.
2. According to the standards, the sum of the minimum air volume, which should determine go on the street for ventilation all rooms equipped with an exhaust ventilation channel - Q in, m 3 / hour.
3. Compare the calculated minimum values \u200b\u200bof air inflow from the street (Q n, m 3 / hour) and leaving on the street (Q in, m 3 / hour). Usually one of the quantities turns out to be more different. Much of two magnitudes are taken for minimum calculated performance of all channels of exhaust ventilation on the floor - Q r, m 3 / hour.
4. Based on the size of the house vertically, the height of the channel of natural ventilation on the floor is prescribed.
5. Knowing the height of the ventilation channel, and the total estimated minimum performance of all channels on the floor (Q R, m 3 / h), Table (see above) select the total number of standard channels from concrete blocks. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels should be no less than the value of Q R, m 3 / hour.
6. The selected number of standard channels is distributed between the houses of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation channels. During the distribution, take into account the need to ensure the regulatory air exchange in each individual room with ventkala.

An example of calculating the natural ventilation of the private house

For example, we will perform the calculation of natural ventilation in a single-storey building with a total floor area 120 m 2.. The house has five residential rooms with a total area of \u200b\u200b90 m 2., kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as dressing room (pantry) area of \u200b\u200b4.5 m 2.. Premises height - 3 m.. The house made with natural ventilation of underground space through the ventilation channel. The height of the ventilated space under the floor of 0.3 m.. For the device of ventilation channels, we use concrete blocks - see above.

Fan at the entrance to the Canal of Natural Ventilation

Continued: To the next

What is ventilation and what is it needed for?

How to check the performance?

How not to stay without air?

A little about the intricacies ...

"Famous" problem of the last floors

The most common misconception

Why did the ventilation stop working "suddenly?

What is ventilation and what is it needed for?

According to existing standards, each residential premises (apartment) must be equipped with ventilation, which serves to remove contaminated air from non-residential apartments (kitchen, bathroom, toilet). Ventilation is air movement, air exchange. Every day breathes throughout the day, uses the kitchen stove, erases or washing, goes to the toilet, many smoke. All these actions contribute to air pollution in the apartment and excessive saturation of its moisture. If the ventilation works properly, then we all do not notice, but if its performance is broken, it turns out into a large problem for living in such an apartment - they begin to move the windows on the windows and condensate runs on the windowsill and the wall; Remove the corners, and mold appears on the walls and ceiling; Lingerie dries in the bathroom for 2-3 days, and when using the toilet, the smell is spread across the apartment. Plus, if there is a breast or very small child in the apartment without ventilation, then, sometimes, one or two years stayed in such conditions is enough to develop bronchial asthma or other respiratory diseases.

In order to find out the ventilation works or not, you do not need to be a specialist. Take a small piece of toilet paper. Output in any room window (window) and bring a cooked piece of toilet paper to the ventilation grid in the bathroom, kitchen or toilet. If the leaf attracted - ventilation works. If the sheet does not hold on the grille and falls - ventilation does not work. If the leaf does not attract, but on the contrary, deviates from the ventilation grille - it means that you have a reverse thrust and you breathe outsiders, and therefore ventilation does not work.

How to check the performance?

Ventilation can be checked, and you can measure. Measure it with a special instrument - anemometer. This device shows, at what speed the air moves in the ventilation channel. Having a settlement table on the hands, you can substitute an anemometer value and the cross section of your vents and you will get a digit that will tell about how many cubic air meters in one hour (m³ / h) passes through the vent. But that's not all. When checking there are many conditions that cannot be calculated, otherwise the measurement data will be incorrect.

According to the "method of testing the air exchange of residential buildings", measurements are carried out in the difference in the temperature of the inner and outer air \u003d 13ºС (example: on the street + 5ºС; in the apartment + 18ºС), and at the same time the air temperature should be no higher than + 5ºС.

The fact is that in the warm season of the year, the ventilation works worse and nothing can be done about it, because these are the laws of physics on this planet. If you measure ventilation at a warm temperature than + 5ºС, then the obtained measurement data will be incorrect. And the warmer will be the outdoor temperature, the farther the measurement data from the regulatory. In severe heat, in some cases, even absolutely good ventilation can stop working or even work in the opposite direction (reverse thrust).

To understand why this happens, it is necessary to remember that each of us heard at school in the lessons of physics. The lower the temperature, the greater the air density, i.e. the air is more severe. Therefore, the greatest air density in winter in frost weather, and the smallest summer.

Therefore, if in the apartment, for example, the temperature of + 18ºС, and on the street -3ºС, then the more warm (light) inner air through the ventilation channel will strive from the apartment to the street. With an increase in the temperature on the street, the share of exterior and internal air will begin to align, which means that the channel will begin to weaken. And, if the apartment is temperatures, for example, + 24ºС, and on the street there is heat under + 30ºС, then, the more cool (heavy) inner air will simply not be able to climb up and exit vanekanal into the atmosphere. It will be much easier for him to move, but down, that is, how to "flow out" from the apartment.

That is why in hot weather is the likelihood that the ventilation can give a reverse craving, although it cannot be recognized as defective, since it is in these conditions, according to the laws of nature, and could not work.

So, you can measure the ventilation only if it works. But before you need to find out whether it works.

As already mentioned, it can make anyone - great efforts for this will not need. To do this, you need a small piece of toilet paper. No need to take a sheet of newspaper, magazine or cardboard. Why?? According to the existing standards for the kitchen (with electric stove), the bathroom and the toilet relies: 60, 25 and 25 m³ / h, respectively. To achieve these values, a relatively small air movement speed is necessary through a vent. And such a movement can be detected only by a thin sheet of paper (better if it is toilet paper). In some apartments, it makes attracts a piece of tight, heavy paper, but this suggests that in this apartment ventilation works as well that exceeds the necessary norm. Here it is necessary to take into account another necessary verification condition for traction. According to the same "method of testing the air intake of residential buildings", when checking the ventilation, one of the rooms are opening the window to 5 - 8 cm. And you open the doors between this room and the kitchen or with a / node.

We had a chance to attend many commissions, which were going to assess the state of ventilation in various apartments and, sometimes, had to be observed as a representative of an inspective organization checked ventilation with a closed window. This is mistake!! In our country, ventilation in residential premises is a subtle-exhaust with natural motivation, i.e. not forced, not mechanical. And all the rules of the air exchange were calculated precisely for natural ventilation. And so that the air goes to Vent.reshtka, it is necessary that he came from somewhere, and coming to the apartment, according to the standards, it should be through the gaps in the windows, doors and other designs. In the early 1990s, in our country, unprecedented plastic windows with hermetic glass windows and metal doors with seals appeared. Undoubtedly, this product is not crowned by our old wooden windows with their eternal drafts, but there was one problem here - new technologies came, and the norms remained old and according to these standards, the air flow into the apartment is carried out through slots and loosening, and new windows are completely eliminated . So it turns out that hermetic windows and doors create such conditions in the apartment under which the ventilation cannot work normally. And then, feeling a lack of fresh air in the apartment, people come up with another problem - installed fans.

How not to stay without air?

Observe the situation with which we often have faced. So, take the usual one-bedroom apartment ("Khrushchevka") with a total area of \u200b\u200b53 m². This apartment has a metal door with a seal and plastic windows. There are also two vents. Channel one for the C / knot, and the other for the kitchen and in the kitchen vent. Kanal the "hood" above the slab (you can say a classic situation). Now "hoods" (i.e., an exhaust umbrella over the stove) is so powerful that at the maximum working position, their power through the passport is 1000 m³ / h and even more. And now imagine that in such a hermetic room, the hostess decided to prepare something and turned on the "hood" above the stove at full power. With the height of the ceilings 2 m. 60 cm., The volume of air in this apartment is only 138 m³. For drawing, by definition, it will take quite a bit of time to "swallow", pass through the cubic meters of air of this apartment. As a result, the "hood" begins to pump out air from the apartment and creates a vacuum, and since the windows and the door is very dense and the air for circulation does not arrive through them, then one single place remains through which air flow in the apartment is possible - the vent C / node (!!!). In such a situation, even the normally operating ventilation of the C / Node (toilet and bathroom) will start working in the opposite direction (reverse thrust). And, since, ventilation within the attic is combined into a common system, then foreign smells from other floors begin to enter the apartment, sometimes silent.

In this case, the solution to the return damage is quite simple - open the windows at the time of use of the hood. Since you decided to link your life with hermetic glass windows and the same hermetic door, then you will have to come to terms with the fact that the influx of air in your apartment will be carried out through the open window - otherwise it will not. The supply devices are able to compensate for air removed via regular ventilation channels, but to provide a powerful exhaust air - this is a difficult task for them.

A little about the intricacies ...

Not a very common problem. However, if you do not know about it, you can see for a very long time to look for the reason for the reverse thrust and not find anything. So, in the vent-channel reverse thrust, but during the examination it turns out that the channel is absolutely clean, in the attic horizontal connecting boxes (if any) is in perfect order, and the mine that goes to the roof is also normal and to make face simply nothing. The reason for the "return" is that the vents is installed on the "passing" channel. That is, two or more apartments are attached to one channel (vertically).

For normal ventilation operation, the vent-channel of the apartment should begin with the "plug", that is, the air falling through the ventilator to the channel should be only one way - upstairs. In no case should there be a move down - either immediately at the bottom of the vintage, or with a small deepening, but necessarily the channel must be separated (blocked) at its lower part. Otherwise, the likelihood that such a channel will give reverse craving.

In the bulk, such a problem is facing people living in homes of the II-18 and I-209A. These are 14, 12-storey single-dividers "towers". However, a similar ventilation system is used in 9-storey panel houses and in some bricks if the ventilation is not lined with bricks, but is mounted with whole concrete panels with cast inside with channels.

This system is as follows. There is a collection channel (shared shaft) with a diameter of about 220-240 mm, and satellite channels with a diameter of about 130-150 mm are located on the sides of the collection channel. Usually, apartments are attached to such a ventilation system "in the dispersion" - for example, the 1st floor in the left of the mine channel-satellite, the 2nd floor - to the right, 3rd floor - in the left, etc. VENT-Blocks are cast At the plant, the ZhBI in such a way that the channels are satellites (they are accelerating sites) communicate with a common shaft windows every 2.5 meters. That is, the air should get from the apartment to the vent-lattice, climb the satellite channel up 2.5 meters, move into a "plug" and go through the window to a shaft (prefabricated canal). But the whole trouble is that there are no "plugs" in these houses.

Most likely, the designer provided for the so-called "universal" ventilation unit. The fact is that if you cast a ventilator with a division to "right" and "left" or "for even floors" and "for odd", then when they are installed, the confusion is inevitable and the problems are guaranteed. Therefore, the VENT unit was made universal, so that during installation, the worker put it without thinking over his geometry. And after the installation, I chose what channel-satellite will be involved for "reading" floors at home, and what kind of "odd" and, on the basis of this, the installer should have been installed on the place in the channel-satellite channels.

Faith designer in the conscientiousness of our builders when complying with the technological process, is truly naive. I myself worked for many years on a construction site and I know how our apartments are built.

As a result, the following is obtained. Instead of a ventilation system with a total (transit) mine and two satellite channels, we have three transit channels in their homes. On the lower floors, this problem is not so noted yet, but on the top, if the ventilation grille is installed on such a transit channel, then you should not be surprised at strangers in the apartment. Air flow, climbing through the channel and flying past vents. Runs, or will give a reverse craving, or it will greatly prevent air removal from the apartment. And, if you install the plug, it will cut off the bottom stream of air and direct it into the collecting channel through the provided window. Thus, ventilation in the apartment begins as if from scratch - without experiencing any obstacles and not burdened with the struggle with other air flows, i.e. because it should be.

"Famous" problem of the last floors

Sometimes, when people were treated for help and when describing their problems, they said that they had the last floor in the house, then this happened to, without going from the place to establish the cause of the lack of normal ventilation. Then it remained only to go into place and confirm their assumptions. Believe me, a huge number of people, thousands suffer from this problem. The fact is that for normal operation of ventilation in the apartment, it is desirable to go through the vent-channel at least about 2 meters vertically. On any other floor, this is possible, but on the latter such an opportunity is excluded - an obstacle is the attic room. There are three ways to output ventilation from the apartment to the street. The first - the venti-channels go to the roof directly in the form of the tube's head. Thus, almost all the houses were built before the beginning of the twentieth century, and then began to gradually move away from this method. The reason - the flood of houses has increased. This method does not interest us, because there are almost never ever problems with him. The second way is the ventilation, reaching the attic, covered with horizontal hermetic boxes, which were connected to the mine, extinguished over the roof. The third way (modern) - ventilation gets first in the attic, which serves as a kind of intermediate vent camera, and after that it comes out through one common vent.

We are interested in the second and third options. In the second case, the following - air through the channels from all floors rise up to the level of the attic and breaks into the horizontal connecting box, mounted in the attic. At the same time, the air flow occurs about the horizontal venti-box cover. The air flow is slightly deviated towards the vent shaft, but if the inner section of the horizontal attic box is insufficient, then the region has an area of \u200b\u200bincreased pressure and the air tends to find an output to any nearest hole. Such outputs (holes) are usually two - the vent-mine, intended for this and the channel of the upper floor, since it is the closest and is almost in the box at a distance of just 40-60 cm. And it is easier to "sell" in Reverse side. If the cross-section of the box in the attic is sufficient, but the lid is mounted too low, then the same thing happens - the reverse thrust - the air flow due to the small height of the cover does not have time to deviate towards the vent-mine and hit. The reflected air flow "pursues" the ventilation of the upper floor and all odors from the lower floors enter this apartment. You can deal with this in two ways - global and local. Global - Increase the cross section of an attic horizontal connecting box by changing its height of 2 - 3 times, plus the device inside the "cunning" devices that we call "squat". But, first, it should be done by specialists, and secondly, it is not recommended to increase the cross section of the box, if the same box is attached to the vent-mine from the opposite side. The local method is that the channels of the upper floor are separated from the total air flow and separately begin in the mine over the box. These individual channels are insulated in order not to disrupt the temperature and humidity regimen (SWR) attic. And all - ventilation in the apartment works.

Now, as for the third (modern) air removal option. This principle works ventilation in all high-rise buildings (series: P - 44, P3M, CE, etc.). The last floors in such houses suffer more often not from reverse thrust, but from weakened. Instead of going through the norms of 2 meters vertically and then connect with a common stream, the following is the following - air, falling into the channel, takes place only about 30 centimeters vertically and, without having to gain strength and speed, dissipates. Ventilation does not disappear, but the air exchange in the upper apartment is much reduced. If the input and intersection doors of the attic will be open (often it happens), then there is a strongest draft, capable of "tipping" craving in the apartments of the upper floor. To this not happened, the individual channels of the top floor must be increasing. The diameter of these channels is 140 mm. You need to wear on these holes of the pipe of the same diameter, and the joints of the joints thoroughly deceive the alabaster. Pipes to bring up to about the height of 1 meter and tilt them slightly towards the shared mines so that the air flow rising from the bottom, flying next to the output pipes, picked up the power of its stream and pulled the air from the top floor channels.

The most common misconception

Each of us in the apartment has a kitchen. Each in the kitchen has a stove (gas or electric). And the overwhelming majority over the stove has an exhaust "umbrella" (in commoner - "exhaust"). What is the misconception ?? In the fact that very many people consider the "hood" equivalent of kitchen ventilation. Otherwise, how to explain what, installing the hood over the stove, the air duct from it is started in the ventilation opening of the kitchen, closing it completely ??

Make it for several reasons - either advised the builders who made repairs or from full confidence that even so air from the kitchen is perfectly deleted. Plus to all, self-relief sellers claim that the power of the purchased stretch should be seamlessly taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen. In fact, all this is a delusion.

Let's try to figure out where it came from. If you carefully read various regulatory documents for construction and operation, then a strange pattern is traced: you will not meet the word in any document ... Hood!

Note: 1) It is about regulatory documents, and not reference; 2) Hood - a kitchen exhaust umbrella (noun), and not a hood - as an action (verb).

So, if there is no such concept in the regulatory database, as an exhaust, then how the air exchange can be omitted with it ??? Nonsense.

Then the end users with extractors there are a reasonable question: how so, the hoods exist, and the words are not? And everything is very simple, there is a word and hoods, only they, as if "out of law." And this is due to the fact that all residential buildings (99.99%) in Russia (and the former USSR) have natural ventilation, or, more correctly, ventilation with natural motivation.

Those. The air in our apartments comes through lootability in windows, doors and building structures, as well as through special supply valves or channels, and goes through vent. Channels located in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet.

How is this related? Let's try to explain. Any building structures or communications are calculated on certain loads. Ventilation in this list is no exception. Our channels have enough limited capability capabilities. In the best conditions, their performance is 150 - 180 m3 / h (for comparison: modern extracts have a power of 600-1100m3 \\ h)

Sorry if we have taken a lot of time. So we came to the delusions. The fact is that there are still norms for mechanical ventilation, which differ significantly from the norms for natural ventilation. For example, an air exchange for a kitchen with natural ventilation should be 3 times, and with mechanical ventilation - 10-12 multiple. So, traces of hoods use the norm (10-12 times), without thinking that the hood over the stove and the norm of mechanical ventilation is not connected between themselves and the hood over the stove has nothing to do with the ventilation of the premises.

Exhaust umbrella is not intended for kitchen ventilation. It is only for removing contaminated air located in a small space above the stove. The extractor is not able to cope with the air, which rose to the ceiling better than the usual vent rip in the top of the room. For the exhaust "reach" to this air - almost an impossible task. The fact is that the behavior of the air flow during suction and the emission is different. When suction, the air is closed from a distance of no more than one diameter of the suction opening, and an air jet is thrown over the distance of fifteen hole diameters. That is why we are a vacuuming carpet from the height of the meter, but pressing the brush. That is why we in the heat we send the fan with the front side, and not reverse. That is why the hood cannot "take" contaminated air (smells), which rose to the ceiling.

Hood during operation removes air above the stove and nearby. Thus, the air movement is created in the room, and the additional air flows are involved in the mixing process. How much it turns out of the room, the same amounts to replace. If the extractor pump is 1000 cubic meters of air - this does not mean that indoors completely updated the air completely. The emptiness that nature does not like, will be filled with air, which came from anywhere - from the window, from other rooms, from the gaps. But the smells of cooking, which rose to the ceiling, almost do not participate in mixing and removed with difficulty. No sport in the instructions for extractors is written that ... "... For the purpose of maximum efficiency, the exhaust umbrella should be located 60 cm. From the electric stove and 75 cm. From the gas stove ..." "... During hoods, avoid airflows - it may be the reason for the spread of odors around the room." If the hood was intended for ventilation of the kitchen, then the instructions would not have such recommendations, and the exhaust "umbrella" would advise you to set up, instead of the chandelier.

By the way, in the instructions for extracts there are no mentions, on what room it is calculated. It has already come up with the sellers of this product. The area of \u200b\u200bthe room for performance does not affect. Conversely, the power of the purchased drawing does not flow out of the size of the room.

The main factor affecting the performance of the drawing is a cross-section of Ventskanalov in our homes. The overwhelming majority of the channels on the territory of our country have a cross section of 130 x 130 mm, or a diameter of 140 mm. Attaching a mechanical (forced) ventilation to such a small channel, we get a meager effect. More air than such channel can still not miss how long do not try. Almost in any instruction on the fan or extractor, a diagram is drawn on which the curve of the performance dependence on pressure from which it is clear that the higher the pressure, the lower the performance of the exhaust or fan. The main factors due to the increase in pressure in the channel and, as a result, the drop in productivity is: irregularities inside the channel; displacement of floor blocks; protruding solution; Skinny section; Material and shape of connecting air ducts; Each turn on the air flow path.

As a result, thanks to the influence of these factors, in the channel and on the approach to it will create increased pressure, and, as is well known, the higher the pressure, the less the performance of the exhaust. This means that the powerful extract itself "stifles". And how powerfully drawing - the stronger she "locks himself."

You can attach an exhaust with a capacity of 1000 m3 / h, you can 1500 m3 / h, you can 5000 m3 / h (if there is such), but in all cases the result will be the same - it will be possible to push a slightly larger air volume into the channel !!! The rest is the loss !!!

Somehow, one of the hood connections to the ventkala with a diameter of 140 mm., In the P-44 series, we specifically grabbed a cup anemometer with you for measurements. When almost everything was mounted, asked the client permission a little experiment. Disconnected the air duct and put a pre-harvested insert with anemometer. Hood four-speed "Sata". Centrifugal fan. The length of the air duct is 3.5 meters with two turns. Air duct plastic, diameter 125 mm. Maximum performance of the exhaust dome 1020 m3 / h. The anemometer was installed before the last twist (at the entrance to the ventball). First speed - anemometer showed 250 cubes / hour. Second speed - 340 cubic readings / hour. Third speed - readings 400 cubes / hour. Fourth speed - 400 cubes / hour. Outcome: 1) The difference in performance between the first and fourth speeds is minimal; 2) The channel missed everything that could, which means, the losses are simply huge; 3) The noise in the third and fourth speed has grown, and the sense of zero. And this is despite the fact that the walls of the connecting air ducts and the ventilation canal are very smooth !!! Imagine what will be the loss of performance, if you attach the hood to the ventkalanal, which is made, say, in a brickwork !!!

Of course, you can use the hood as a simple fan, but in this case you should not hope that it will provide you with a full air exchange. We do not discharge from the acquisition of the drawing at all and do not claim that this is not the necessary and useless thing. Of course it is not. The only goal that we pursue is a desire to warn the consumer from universal delusion. Namely: 1) Do not perceive the exhaust umbrella in the kitchen as the equivalent of the ventilation of the room - it has nothing to do with this; 2) Buying a hood, it is impossible to repel from the size of the room - these are not connected things.

Why did the ventilation stop working "suddenly?

It happens. It seemed to worked, worked for many years and "suddenly" stopped. Many residents tend to believe that the reason for this are the neighbors who climbed the ventilation riser and blocked something there. Of course, there are such "craftsmen". These "specials" perfectly understand that the current flows the current, on the sewage - poop, along the pipes - water, but when it comes to ventilation - the logic it refuses - they cannot understand that there is no emptiness that you do not have to take There is moving air.

But we are not talking about them. If you immediately cut off all the cases when the neighbors really broke the ventilation and try to understand the remaining reasons that influenced its performance, it turns out that the huge number of problems with ventilation residents create themselves.

How does this happen? For example, take the most common modern scheme of natural ventilation: a) a multi-storey house, b) the ventilation of the house goes to a warm attic and consists of a collection channel (shared mine) and a satellite channel. Under this scheme, a series of episodes are suitable: P-44, P-3M, CAP, P-46, P-55, P-30, P-42, P-43, some monolithic houses and many less common series.

Ventilation in these houses consists of a national channel (shared shaft), which is transit from the first floor to the attic. In addition, each apartment has an individual channel (channel-satellite), which begins with a ventilation lattice in the apartment, then rises to one floor and, without reaching the same individual channel of the Optional apartment, goes through a hole in a shared mine, where the air continues Your movement to the attic and further into the street.

To easier to understand this scheme, imagine a full-water river with small robusts in it. This is the presentation of the ventilation scheme. River is a mine team; The streams flowing into it are satellite channels.

As the tributaries feed the full-water river and the channels satellites fill the national team with air. If you start overlapping the tributaries, then the river is hung and dry. If the air channels do not go out of the channels, the speed and volume of air in the national team will significantly decrease. Since the home ventilation system is a chain of interrelated and interdependent links, a violation of one of the links leads to changes in the entire chain, which ultimately turns into problems for the entire ventilation system of rising, entrance, and sometimes at home.

You can trace all stages of violation of the ventilation system.

The usual 17-storey panel house, which is fully completely and nearby. The ventilation scheme applied in these houses is perhaps the best of what a person has invented for residential high-rise houses. This ventilation system is able to work even in the strongest heat. Although, by definition, it should not work in the summer. In the heat, ventilation over all conditions and rules should stop or tipped (reverse traction). But this does not happen in these homes, because the ventilation channel, which is the team of which the national team performs, has a height of about 50 meters. And due to such a difference in height, and therefore the difference in the pressure difference between the bottom and the upper points, there is a rather strong air flow (traction). The enhancement factor here serves "Warm attic". And this ligament is not able to "smother" even a severe heat. But ... only if the conditions necessary for this work are created for this ventilation system.

One entrance of any crowded house with a warm attic is a closed and separate system. Ventilation of any apartment of this entrance is an integral part of this system. That is, the ventilation of each apartment depends on the rest of the entrance apartments and, on the contrary, each apartment has an impact on all other apartments.

The influence of one apartment onto its riser or the whole entrance is insignificant and cannot change the "alignment of forces". But this is if one apartment. And if there are several of them ?? If there are five, or ten, or twenty, or half. And if more than half? That is, if there are apartments that do not participate in the system (fall out of it), it means that this system loses strength, weakens. There is a definite critical point, after which it gives failure. That is, the sum of all air flows overlooking the attic turns out to be insufficient to push this air from the attic into the atmosphere. Because the total exhaust mine, going from the attic to the roof (on the street), has quite impressive sizes. And this buzzer "wants to eat", i.e. its size is designed for the passage of a certain amount of air, which it is not allowed. There is such a saying: "Sea's seed will not warm." This is just our case. As a result, the speed and density of the air flow in such a mine decreases and the thrust rolls over. In winter, more "heavy" cold air lowers, and the outgoing warm air flow ("sewing") is too small for large sizes of the mine ("Sea").

There is a reasonable question: "Why is the amount of air emitted through the vent.shach in the atmosphere decreases? What is the reason?".

The answer can be obtained by the example of the smallest level of the overall ventilation system - on the example of ventilation by a separate apartment.

The apartment has two ventilation channels. One works in the kitchen, the other - on the C / node (bathroom + toilet). Two channels 24 hours a day remove the air from the apartment to ventilation. The remote dirty, wet, exhaust air should come to the remote dirty, wet, exhaust air - the outer, fresh, enriched with oxygen. That is, the influx. Thanks to this circulation, this constant substitution (influx), normal conditions for living are maintained in the apartment.

Normal, only the influx of outdoor air can be considered a full influx. The air, which came from the staircase through the slots in the entrance door or, who came from the next room (apartment), in terms of the quality, no better than the air, which is already available in the apartment. He is the same dirty, wet, already attempted him, picked up the toilet freshener and satuned with "aromas" kitchen. It is like an old joke about the concentration camp: "Today there will be a change of linen. The first Barack is changing with the second. "

Previously, the influx in the apartment was mainly carried out through slots and loosening in our old, terrible, curves, leaky windows. When replacing these shameful windows on new hermetic glass windows, the previous order of air circulation is disturbed. New windows are very dense, there are practically no slots in them, which means the influx of outdoor air through them is almost zero. Temporary opening of submarines and sash is self-deception. Ventilation works constantly, which means the need for the influx is also constant.

Has anyone tried to roll out the air from a plastic bottle ?? Right. It's impossible. And if you make a hole in the bottle ?? Then you can pump the air from the bottle to infinity. The hole is the influx. The bottle is an apartment with hermetic glass packages. When the windows are closed - the ventilation cannot work normally. Under these conditions, only two things can occur with it:

a) One of the vent-channels of the apartment (stronger channel) will begin to drag another channel. That is, the second, weaker channel, will start performing the function of the inflow, which was ruined by installing new windows;

b) Both vent-channels will work as before, and the missing inflow will be refunded through the slots between other apartments. That is, they will suck in the apartment exactly the same spent air, which is removed, only already with other people's odors.

So it turns out that: in one case, instead of two normally working channels of the apartment, we have only one working channel. So, the volume of removed air from one apartment has decreased at least half (!!!). In the second case, the channels seem to fill the team of the mine by air, but this is the air inside the house, and not outdoor. So, the channels do not work on the apartment in which they are located and the circulation of air in this apartment is violated.

Now go out to the street, look at any home, choose any riser of apartments and count how old old windows remained throughout the vertical, and how much plastic stands. Those that with plastic - can be tweed from the general ventilation system of the entrance. This is a ballast. Without a tributary, these apartments are hijacked on the legs of the ventilation system. And if in summer or in winter (in the winter less often) from your vent-channels "suddenly" will go back, then you can safely say these neighbors "Thank you very much." They tried very much.

The main conclusion.

It is impossible to thoughtlessly install hermetic double glazing. These windows are not by themselves. They are part of the ventilation system. It depends on you, there will be ventilation or not. Decided to put hermetic glass windas ?? Organize a permanent influx !!!.

2. Ventilation trumpet

You need to search with the label D125. Some believe that if you shove 125 pipe into the hole 132mm, then a big gap will remain. This is not true. The diameter of the ventilation pipe is indicated internal. The wall thickness is about 1.5 mm, a slight gap will remain, approximately 2mm on each side. It closes the outer grille.

3. Outdoor grille

We recommend installing metallic. How you already guessed all the elements with a diameter of D125. If you want to install a plastic, then look for the fabricated plastic made from weather-resistant plastic, otherwise, under the influence of sun rays, it will quickly collapse: in just a few months it will lose its rigidity and breaks from the slightest touch.

Metal 350r, from weather-resistant plastic 150r

• 4. Check valve

  We are needed that at the time of the wind gusts protected the ventilation channel. Place it closer to the street, the axis is horizontally.

  The ventilation pipe you will need to cut (), insert the check valve, then.

  1 Valve - 90r

• 5. Exhaust fan

  Recommended Silent 200 CZ. It has a long service life, its plastic is safe for health, has a reliable wire connection, high performance corresponds to real. Another important plus, he is quiet. About dough fans Watch video just below.

  From the disadvantages, you can note the high cost, but, eating 500r, you can buy a fan, which does not correspond to the stated! It is better to install a high-quality and reliable fan that will work for many years.

  The outer diameter of the 120mm fan flange. Wrap it (25r) several times to take tightly.

  What is the drawback?

  The fan cannot be turned off in winter. It should work 24h / 7, otherwise, when the fan is turned off, the fan is fan, and vent rip. So that the channel does not freeze, you need to install 3 valves. It works like a vestibule in the entrance. The system of 3 check valves creates 3 buffer zones for air, and the temperature difference becomes smasher. You can put 2 valves, but in practice only 3 valves completely eliminate the probability of freezing. Silent 200 will not be able to push the air stream through 3 valves, a high-pressure fan is required, which is more expensive.

  3 valve design

  

  The VORT QUADro Micro 80 fan creates the necessary high-pressure pressure of 265pa (even more than that of the Micro 100 model), so the air flow will push through 3 valves. For comparison, Silent 200 - 82pa, fans for 1000r in household goods - approximately 25pa. The valve should be placed as close as possible to each other, but so that they do not interfere with open.

  What is the drawback?

  High cost fan

  How to connect kitchen hood?

  Option №1

  If the hole made is the only exhaust ventilation channel, it is better not to attach a kitchen exhaust to it, but leave it to remove the air with a fan.

  The task of the hood is to get rid of fat and unpleasant odors in the air. Polluted air can either remove from the room or clean. Modern hoods have filters that are well coped with air purification: grease filters are effectively cleaned of fat, coal filters - from unpleasant odors. Therefore, now the hoods have the recirculation mode when the air is not allocated to Ventkanal, and the peeled back in the room falls. There is a minus recirculation mode: you need to change the coal filter once every six months, they cost about 1000r.

  Option number 2.

  Stretch the air duct.

  

  Kitchen hoods can not be kept always included, so a system of 3 valves that protect against freezing when turned off is necessary. Extracts them easily open, inside them a powerful centrifugal fan. You need to connect the channel by plastic ventilation pipes D125. You can reduce the noise when working in the air duct, wrapped in (575r). In contrast, he has an adhesive surface.

  Hole in the wall itself

  Make quite problematic, but perhaps. For this you need a perforator, a few days of free time and the hands of the hero. In fact, this is a difficult lesson, if you never did such a hole, it is better not to start drilling a carriage wall at home. Unlike diamond drilling when working with a perforator:

  1. a lot of dust is formed, which will cover the entire room.
  2. the opening will not be even, so it will have to breed a cement solution and to lure voids.
  3. at the exit, a funnel is formed Photo №1
  4. you can burn perforator

  Find drillings with equipment for diamond drilling is not difficult, look at Avito in your city.

  The average price is 3000r

  If you want drilling operations in the kitchen without dust and dirt, order the drillers who are engaged in home ventilation. Base of ventilation officers. As a rule, Avito contains builders who are used to drilling in houses under construction, ventilationers - in apartments with finished repairs, so they have additional equipment for collecting dust and dirt when drilling walls.

  The average price of drilling without dust and dirt 4000r

  By the way, before the start of drilling the walls ask: "What an angle will be a hole?" The angle should be 0 degrees so that the valves are completely closed, otherwise they will hang in the air apertured.

  How much does it cost to make an extract through the wall outside, the result.

  If you want to cheaper, with a fan that will not be turned off, then materials + drilling holes without dust and dirt will be about 8500 rubles, based on average prices in Central Russia. Taking into account the fact that you yourself mounted and travel to shop in search of the necessary components. A large chain of stores on ventilation equipment is called "Blagovest", there you can find most of what you need.

  With the ability to turn off the fan, it is already more expensive - about 11800r.

  With the connection of the kitchen exhaust 5000r + 480r for each duct meter with noise insulation.

  Remember! If you have a gas column in the kitchen, then it is impossible to put a mechanical extract! In the gas column there may be reverse thrust, and then the carbon monoxide will go to the room. For this reason, tragedy will happen each year. The norms are written by engineers not just so, they are written by someone's blood.

Among those families who live in typical urban apartments are probably not there anyone who would not want to increase the useful area of \u200b\u200bpremises, this is especially true of traditionally close and irrationally planned kitchen facilities.

To date, there are many ways to solve the problem of tightness - from the expansion of the kitchen at the expense of related rooms: a corridor, storage rooms until the kitchen is combined and the adjacent room to the living room. It is much less likely to redevelop the kitchen or joining the kitchen room, balcony or loggia.

All these types of redevelopment can be carried out. only after appropriate change What guarantees the safety of accommodation in your apartment and in the apartments of your neighbors. But some owners of apartments increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen due to redevelopment with the dismantling of the ventilation box, which it is strictly prohibited by existing construction norms.

Advantages of removal of the ventilation box and Ventkanal:

Of course, partial or complete dismantling of the ventilation box can give certain advantages, because in addition that in the niche resulting in the wall, you can put a refrigerator, a small wardrobe, install the shelves, the empty space, resulting out after redeveloping the ventilation box, can be part of the interior, and the kitchen room It will ensure a kind of highlight.

But practice shows that reference to ventilationku and with all its advantages, there is unpleasant consequences that outweigh all the benefits. If you are going to make a dismantling of the ventilation box, you should know that the housing inspection will not go to the approval of such actions. Dismantling the ventilation riser deprivates the influx of air of your neighbors, and the ventilation box is injected with a part of the public property, and to close the eyes in the living conditions in an apartment building will not work.

Reference to the ventilation box. P ocho you can not arrange?

Some ventilation systems are built using self-supporting blocks. Simply put, the ventilation shaft consists of a variety of sections installed on each other. It is easy to imagine what can happen if "pull out" such a block Say on the fifth floor - the entire mine from the sixth and above will be deprived of the support and hang on the walls, and the apartments below the fifth will remain without fresh air.

It would seem logical to get around this ban on the first floor, because there are no neighbors from below, and the box can be fixed under the most ceiling, but it is forbidden to do this, since the ventilation shaft is a general property, and not part of your apartment. For the same reason, it is strictly forbidden to intervene in the layout of the fencing system of the ventilation system.

Ventilation channel in an apartment building, photo:

Sometimes the builders are removed not the entire box in the kitchen, and its part, counting on what it will be formerly. It is worth saying right to say that even if the size of the ventilation channel makes you think about the decrease in its area, partial dismantling is also a violation, and is explained by its design. It consists of one large (total) channel and two intimidated smaller.

Stock Foto Refreshing ventilation box in the kitchen with disorders:

On small channels, the air rises to the height of three meters from the level of air entering the exhaust windows, which are usually located in the corner of the kitchen and toilet, and only then falls into the common channel. Reducing the section in an exhaust mine, you create an increased pressure area that will not give the air from the lower apartments above. Next neighbors will be very grateful for the collective smell from all over the entrance in their housing, because "the exhaust air will go to them.

If you only plan to buy an apartment, then when choosing a suitable housing is worth paying attention to the presence of illegal redevelopments, and especially the redevelopment of ventilation, since you cannot agree on such work in the further "rear number", and you will have to eliminate everything in your account Changed changes.

• To identify illegally spent redevelopment when checking is sufficient simply - all unauthorized changes are marked with red lines on the BTI floor plan.
• The same scheme acts in the event of redevelopment of the ventilation box in the kitchen Conducted you yourself.

​ Pipeport Apartment with marked illegal redevelopments:

Penalties and punishment for redevelopment of the ventilation box or ventilation channel

After it becomes aware of an unauthorized redevelopment (and sooner or later it will happen), you will be obliged to pay an administrative penalty in the amount of 2500 rubles, and then you will need to eliminate all the consequences of illegal redevelopment and engage in the restoration of corrupted public property.

In general, the apartment with illegally performed redevelopment is deprived of many advantages, compared with the apartment without redevelopment or housing, where the redevelopment was pronounced in a timely manner. For example, such an apartment cannot participate in real estate transactions, since it is not legally "clean." In many situations, to eliminate this disadvantage, it is necessary to legitimize the rear date.

Ventilation channel survey act, photo:

Therefore, avoid any work that can affect the ventilation system. However, it is worth noting that in some typical ventilation is located in unlikely places (for example, in the bearing walls in or). And it is not possible to arrange the openings in these walls to combine premises.

In the houses of the Old Foundation, the location of various Ventshacht is at all unexpected. They can be inside the brick walls, and this fact sometimes becomes an unpleasant surprise in the unauthorized device of openings. Such openings definitely will not be able to save: they will have to lay with the restoration of ventilation.

Dismantling of an unused ventilation channel in an old house, photo:

Redevelopment of the ventilation canal in the old house. Disassembly of unused Ventkanalov

However, in old houses there are often chimneys or inactive ventilation channels. Their addresses in principle may, but only with the consent of 73% of tenants, since these are generalic property.

This applies to such changes in the planning of the apartment as, for example, transferring or expanding the doorway in the partition, installation or dismantling of the partition, redevelopment with a dressing room - most of these works can be coordinated after it. But despite the fact that the housing inspection often goes to meet those who have fulfilled in their apartment unauthorized redevelopment and often makes up the work already performed,all this does not apply to illegal redevelopment of the ventilation box in the toilet, in the kitchen or other places.

The list of redevelopments, which can also be coordinated after their conduct, include works that violate the stability of the building designs, such as redevelopment affecting the bearing walls of the house. Changes in the planning, which are obviously worsening the living conditions in your apartment, are also considered forbidden and coordinate them with "rear-numbers" you will not succeed.

It is not worthwhile to carry out work, if the result is difficult to access the current risers - the housing inspection will oblige you to return everything to the previous state before redeveloping.

Thus, deciding to redevelop the kitchen if you want to increase the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen, it is primarily to take care of the legitimacy of your future transformations. In order for changes in the planning to meet the current construction and sanitary standards and did not violate the law, the project of the upcoming redevelopment should be developed in the organization with the admission of SRO, and then obtain a written permission to redecessing the premises.

An example of a device of ventilation channels in non-residential premises, photo:

Examples of failures when agreeing to dismantle Ventkobov:

So, summarize the total above:

Disassemble Ventkanal or ventilation box in a multi-apartment, and especially a high-rise building can not For several reasons:

• The house of Ventkanal works only in the assembled form, and having reduced it by the volume you worsen the living conditions of your neighbors for the sake of increased free space in the kitchen
• The ventilation box refers to a general-purpose property and cannot be dismantled without the consent of your neighbors in an apartment building.
• Restoration of the dismantled vent car will fall on your shoulders, even if you did not produce it and got "by inheritance"
• The error price is quite large and when redeveloping a kitchen with dismantling of the ventilation channel, you will have to restore the channel itself, ventilation box, and also pay a fine.
• As a rule, it is possible to increase the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen and without resorting to such radical measures - it is enough to correctly develop a project to change the configuration of the apartment.
• In a private house, in contrast to the multi-storey, the redevelopment of Ventkanal for the exhaust is made much easier.
• Redeveloping a kitchen with dismantling of the ventilation channel is in principle inconsistent in the conditions of an apartment building.
• Such redevelopments are consultially easily detected during surveys, for example, when checking the inspector of the housing system.

Our company will help both the development of the project and with its coordination. Due to the presence of experience and all necessary tolerances, we guarantee the complete legality of the proposed changes.