World War Games Rock Climbing Finals. III Winter World War Games in Sochi: announcement. Climbing the difficulty

Better sports war games than real military action. No war, no peace - yes, as the immortal John Lennon would say. And, for sure, I would add a couple of famous words about love.

III Winter World War Games to be held in Sochi from 22 to 28 February 2017. It is expected that during the Games 44 sets of awards will be played in individual and team competitions. The sports program will consist of 7 sports: biathlon, cross-country skiing, alpine skiing, ski orienteering, ski mountaineering, sport climbing, short track.
The opening ceremony of the Games will take place on February 24, 2017 at the Ice Cube multifunctional arena.

The War World Winter Games are a multisport event organized for military athletes once every four years. Summer World War Games have been held since 1995, and winter ones since 2010. During this time, six summer military Olympiads and two winter ones were held - in 2010 in Aosta (Italy) and in 2013 in Annecy (France).

Russia received the right to host the III Winter Military World Games in 2017 at the 70th General Assembly of the International Council of Military Sports (CISM), held on May 22, 2015 in Kuwait.

Today, the International Council for Military Sports (CISM) is the largest sports organization after the International Olympic Committee and the International University Sports Federation. Its main task is to establish links between the armed forces of different countries in the field of sports and physical education.
The formal side of the Games seems to be clear. The World War Games are, as it were, an analogue of the Olympics, but among the military.
It is undoubtedly pleasant that the Winter Games are being held on our territory, at the already run-in and, in fact, ready-made Olympic facilities.

Sports featured at World War Games 2017:

Biathlon
- Ski race
- Skiing
- Ski mountaineering
- Short track
- Rock climbing
- Ski orienteering

The closest and most interesting competitions for our audience are, of course, rock climbing and ski mountaineering.
It is surprising that rock climbing was included in the program of not summer, but winter sports.
The stands are located directly in Sochi, in the Bolshoi Sports Palace. And two ski mountaineering races will take place on Rosa Plateau. Hopefully the climbing news continues (posted by Billy) independently of me.

As for ski mountaineering, a little background information from the scene.

Competitions in ski mountaineering at the Games in Sochi will take part 30 strongest athletes from eight countries: Germany, Spain, Italy, Lebanon, Slovenia, France, Sweden and Russia.
Surprisingly, with the number of participants in several thousand people in the race of military patrols "Ice Patrol", which takes place every two years for a hundred years in Zermatt, Switzerland, only 30 athletes showed up in Sochi. Six of them are from Russia. For some reason, at the first confirmation of participation, in the end the Swiss team refused to come ... and so on.

The national team of the country in this sport consists of four participants: two men and two women. Apparently, as the host country, Russia got the right to nominate a team of 6 people.

Competitions will be held in individual and team racing. Military athletes start at an altitude of 1600 m and climb to the top of Rosa Peak at an altitude of 2320 m - this is the highest point of the Aibga ridge. The finish line will be located at the same point as the start of the competition. In the individual race, athletes will make four ascents and descents in a row, in the team race - five. The difference in altitude in the team race is expected to be 2500 m, in the individual start 1600.
The Rosa Plateau area is very sensitive to changes in weather conditions. So in the last couple of days there have been heavy snowfalls. Therefore, the organizers of the competition had to think over a backup version of the tracks, in case of increased avalanche danger upstairs and in case of severe bad weather and deterioration of visibility.

The composition of the Russian team:

Markov Evgeniy

Shkel Vitaly

Nurgaliev Aydar

Shvetsova Anastasia

Mityaeva Ekaterina

Berezan Svetlana

Org works harmoniously. competition committee. 30 athletes will take part in the races. They are served by the refereeing team. It includes: judges at the start and finish, judges at control points, judges at the participants (assistance at the start and finish), technical committee (checking equipment standards), credentials committee, secretariat, volunteers and route preparers, route managers responsible for safety , radio communications, etc ... Only 80 people! Most of them are the same "old guard". The chief judge of the species is Alexander Ovchinnikov. Man is definitely in his place. He fulfills the task as he bears military duty. Clearly, calmly, competently.

It is pleasant to note that our athletes appeared on the official promo banners before the start of the Games. Both rock climbers and ski climbers.
Like this, for example.

Ski-climber Evgeny Markov at the last stage of preparation for the Games.
Or like this:

Russian rock climber, world champion Anna Tsyganova during preparations for CISMSochi 2017

In the summer of 2016, the International Olympic Committee recognized ski mountaineering as an official Olympic sport. The status of the species has risen sharply. It remains to grow a team of the same level. The World War Games is one of the steps on this difficult, seemingly endless path ... when from year to year the same people start at competitions of the level of the Russian Championship ... Maybe the new status of the species will lead to an influx of fresh, young forces - a reserve of our victories at the upcoming Winter Olympics?

In the meantime, watch the special edition of MATCH TV about the Winter World War Games. Of course, our favorite ski climbers are also mentioned there.
Especially touching are the words about "a young, wildly gaining popularity kind of sport"
- ski mountaineering.

My own dream is to learn more about our native team. I'll tell you everything soon. We have nothing to hide except a military map with tracks. But it will also be clearly available tomorrow.

And the places here are wonderful. The skating is magical. The snow is fabulous. There are long weekends ahead and the resort predicts about 12 thousand skiers on the slopes of Rosa alone. There was an accident in our team at the training exits. The girl-athlete on the track was demolished by a tourist - a skier. A blow with a helmet on a head-on course directly in the face. Orbital fracture, bruises. Be vigilant on slopes, especially in crowded places ...

At the combat post,
Your permanent watch for the Winter War Games.

From 22 to 28 February 2017, the III Winter World War Games will be held in Sochi, within the framework of which climbing competitions will be held.

70 athletes from Russia, Spain, Belgium, Slovenia, Italy, Austria, Germany, France, Switzerland and Kazakhstan will participate in the competition. Competitions will be held at a 15-meter climbing wall located in the Bolshoi Sports Palace (http://cismsochi2017.ru/sports/sport-climbing/#not-set:all).

The CSKA national team for the upcoming tournament included:

Dmitry Sharafutdinov (Sverdlovsk Region) - 3-time world champion (2007, 2011, 2012) in bouldering, world champion (2007) and Europe (2013) in all-around,
Anna Tsyganova (Krasnoyarsk Territory) - world champion (2016) and Europe (2013) in speed,
Olga Yakovleva (Samara region) - silver medalist of the World Championship (2012) in bouldering,
Dmitry Fakiryanov (Sverdlovsk region) - silver medalist of the World Cup (2016) in Xiamen in difficulty,
Tatyana Shemulinkina (Samara region) - bronze medalist of the World Cup (2007) in Sofia in bouldering,
Daria Kan (Bashkortostan) - 3-time winner of the world championships (2013, 2014, 2016) in speed,
Vladislav Myznikov (Chelyabinsk region) - the winner of the world championship (2013) in speed,
Sergey Luzhetsky (Sverdlovsk region) - silver medalist of the world championships (2010, 2012, 2014) in speed,
Arman Ter-Minasyan (Moscow) - silver medalist of the world championships (2006) in difficulty and (2009) in speed,
Evgenia Malamid (Voronezh region) - 5-time champion of Russia (2003, 2009, 20110, 2011, 2012) in difficulty,
Evgenia Lapshina (Sverdlovsk Region) - 3-time winner of the European Youth Cup stages (2012) in difficulty and (2014) in speed,
Vadim Timonov (St. Petersburg) - bronze medalist of the Russian Cup (2015) in bouldering.

The reserve composition of the CSKA team included:

Maria Musienko (Krasnoyarsk Territory) - bronze medalist of the European Championship (2016) in the all-around,
Evgeny Zazulin (Kaliningrad region) - 3-time winner of the stages of the European Youth Cup (2006, 2008) in difficulty,
Sergey Skorodumov (St. Petersburg) - silver medalist of the Russian bouldering championship (2016).

Russian climbers made their debut at the Winter World War Games in March 2013 in Annecy, France. Four years ago, our athletes won six medals. In difficulty, Evgenia Malamid won, the third was Yana Churikova (Chereshneva). In bouldering, Malamid finished in second place, and in speed the entire women's podium turned out to be Russian: Churikova won, Alina Gaidamakina was second, Malamid was third.

Eight sets of awards will be played in Sochi: two in bouldering, difficulty and two types of speed (on the standard and in the classic).

COMPETITION PROGRAM

February 24 (Friday)
11:00 - 12:30 Difficulty. Qualification. Women.
13:30 - 16:30. Difficulty. Qualification. Men.

February 25 (Saturday)
11:00 - 14:00. Difficulty. Semifinal. Men, women.
20:30. Difficulty (duel). The final. Men.
21:20. Difficulty (duel). The final. Women.

February 26 (Sunday)
10:00 - 14:00. Bouldering. Qualification. Men, women.
20:30 - 22:30. Bouldering. The final. Men, women.
22:30. Award Ceremony.

February 27 (Monday)
10:30 - 12:00 Speed. Classic format. Qualification. Men, women.
12:30 - 13:30. Speed. Classic format. Final round. Men, women.
15:30 - 16:30. Speed. Record format. Qualification. Men, women.
16:30 - 17:30. Speed. Record format. Final round. Men, women.
20:00. Award Ceremony.

CLIMBING

Especially for the III Winter World War Games, a unique complex of climbing walls was assembled, which has the highest level of complexity of the tracks among similar Russian structures. The height of the structure is 15 meters, width - 12 meters, overhanging the base - 7 meters, the deviation is about 30 degrees.

This very climbing wall has already gone to Sochi on 15 trucks to be installed in the Bolshoi Sports Palace, where climbing competitions will be held in the framework of the III Winter World War Games from February 24 to February 27.

For fans and spectators, tickets are FREE (after registration).
REGISTER (https://prclimbing.timepad.ru/event/447347/)!

Official website of the III Winter World War Games - http://cismsochi2017.ru/

Organizers: Central Army Sports Club (CSKA), Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation.

FSR partners: Red Fox, DoorHan, Skalodrom.Ru. The partners in the preparation of the national team are the BigWall climbing center, Limestone climbing wall.

Alexey SERGUNIN, press service of the FSR

The best of the best climbers in the world at one climbing wall!
The Bolshoi Sports Palace.
February 24-27, 2017.
For fans and spectators, tickets are FREE (after registration).

Especially for the III Winter World War Games, a unique complex of climbing walls has been assembled: difficulty, speed, bouldering. Sports Palace "Bolshoi"

Among the participants there are 70 athletes from Russia, Spain, Belgium, Slovenia, Italy, Austria, Germany, France, Switzerland and Kazakhstan. Competitions will be held at a 15-meter climbing wall located in the Bolshoi Sports Palace.

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DISCIPLINES

Climbing competitions within the framework of the III Winter World War Games will be held in 4 climbing disciplines: bouldering, speed on a record track, speed on a classic track and difficulty.

Bouldering

The name comes from the English "boulder" (boulder), bouldering - climbing boulders. Participants are invited to climb a series of short runs of maximum difficulty. It is very important here to thoroughly disassemble the route before climbing it. The winner is the one who overcomes the maximum number of tracks, spending the minimum number of attempts. Modern tracks include an intermediate finish, the achievement of which is counted as a "bonus". If the number of trails passed and attempts is equal, the number of "bonuses" is taken into account. If the number of trails passed, bonuses and attempts are equal, the athlete who is ahead of the opponent according to the results of the previous round of the competition has an advantage. One of the features of bouldering is the lack of insurance. In the event of a breakdown, the athlete falls on special gymnastic mats.

Climbing speed

The most dynamic and understandable climbing discipline for spectators. Whoever climbed the track faster won. However, in addition to the speed of climbing, it is also necessary to focus on: at the start - to prevent a false start and at the finish - to fix the passage of the route by hitting the finish button well. In the modern version of the “speed” competition is held mainly in the “pair race” mode, when two athletes simultaneously start on two identical, in particular, “reference” tracks. Climbing at speed is carried out with the top referee's belay.

Initially, the speed was conducted in the so-called classic format: unique tracks at each competition. Participants in doubles races climbed both tracks, alternately changing places, their times were summed up, and the fastest athlete entered the next round.

But since 2005, speed competitions have been held both in the classic format and on standardized tracks - reference (record format). Their length is 10 or 15 meters. If in qualification on reference tracks an athlete has the right to two attempts (the best time is taken into account), then in the final round (starting from the 1/8 finals) - he has only one chance to prove himself (either on the left track or on the right) ...

A world record is recorded on reference tracks. On February 1, 2017, the record among men belongs to Danila Boldyrev (Ukraine) - 5.60 seconds, among women - Yulia Kaplina (Russia) - 7.53.

At the World Championships in Xining (China, 2009), a team competition "speed" in the form of a relay was held.

Climbing the difficulty

The winner here is the one who climbs further along the track prepared by a special team of track preparers. Time is taken into account, only in the final for those who climbed the track to the end, to the TOP (TOP - the top in English). Modern tracks are up to 40 meters long. In the "difficulty", the organization of a safe lower belay is of great importance: the athlete must independently snap the safety rope into the guy wires, which are located throughout the entire route. At the World Championships in Paris (1997) and in Arco (2011), there are demonstration competitions "for difficulty" in the form of a "duel", where two athletes start on two identical tracks - by analogy with the "pair race in speed climbing."

TEAM CSKA

The CSKA national team for the upcoming tournament included:

Dmitry Sharafutdinov(Sverdlovsk Region) - 3-time world champion (2007, 2011, 2012) in bouldering, world champion (2007) and Europe (2013) in all-around,
Anna Tsyganova(Krasnoyarsk Territory) - world champion (2016) and Europe (2013) in speed,
Olga Yakovleva(Samara region) - silver medalist of the World Championship (2012) in bouldering,
Dmitry Fakiryanov(Sverdlovsk region) - silver medalist of the World Cup (2016) in Xiamen in difficulty,
Tatiana Shemulinkina(Samara region) - bronze medalist of the World Cup (2007) in Sofia in bouldering,
Daria Kahn(Bashkortostan) - 3-time winner of the world championships (2013, 2014, 2016) in speed,
Vladislav Myznikov(Chelyabinsk region) - the winner of the world championship (2013) in speed,
Sergey Luzhetsky(Sverdlovsk region) - silver medalist of the world championships (2010, 2012, 2014) in speed,
Arman Ter-Minasyan(Moscow) - silver medalist of the world championships (2006) in difficulty and (2009) in speed,
Evgeniya Malamid(Voronezh region) - 5-time champion of Russia (2003, 2009, 20110, 2011, 2012) in difficulty,
Evgeniya Lapshina(Sverdlovsk region) - 3-time winner of the European Youth Cup stages (2012) in difficulty and (2014) in speed,
Vadim Timonov(St. Petersburg) - bronze medalist of the Russian Cup (2015) in bouldering.

The reserve composition of the CSKA team included:

Maria Musienko(Krasnoyarsk Territory) - bronze medalist of the European Championship (2016) in the all-around,
Evgeny Zazulin(Kaliningrad region) - 3-time winner of the stages of the European Youth Cup (2006, 2008) in difficulty,
Sergey Skorodumov(St. Petersburg) - silver medalist of the Russian bouldering championship (2016).

CLIMBING

Especially for the III Winter World War Games, a unique complex of climbing walls was assembled, which has the highest level of complexity of tracks among similar Russian structures. The height of the structure is 15 meters, width - 12 meters, overhanging the base - 7 meters, the deviation is about 30 degrees.

The press conference was attended by two-time Olympic champion in artistic gymnastics, first deputy head of CSKA, lieutenant colonel Svetlana Khorkina, senior coach of CSKA and the national team of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation - President of the Russian Climbing Federation Dmitry Bychkov, CSKA team coach Sergey Sigov and press secretary of the CSKA command Ekaterina Agafonova, as well as about 20 army climbers - candidates for participation in the III Winter World War Games.

“The purpose of the War Games is to promote world peace and establish close ties between the armed forces of different countries in the field of sports and physical education. Sports victories unite, so we want our military climbers to win as many medals as possible and set world records ”, - with these words of the great army gymnast, the presentation of the climbing wall began, where in less than a month for medals in four disciplines (difficulty, bouldering , as well as speed in a record and classic format), about 70 soldiers from 11 countries will fight.

Dmitry Bychkov noted that this climbing wall will be used to prepare the national team for the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo.

“The presented climbing wall is a unique structure for Russian sports, which can be used for stages of international tournaments of various categories, including the Olympic Games. An analogue of this climbing wall was used at the 2016 World Championships in Paris, - said Dmitry Bychkov.

The height of the climbing wall is 15 meters, the width is 12 meters, overhanging the base of 7 meters, i.e. the tilt is about 30 degrees. The total weight of the climbing wall is about 60 tons. For the climbing wall, 15 trucks will be used for transportation to the Sochi Sports Palace "Bolshoi".

For the equipment of sports tracks, the number of which is not limited in theory, 6,000 leads (3,000 Russian and 3,000 foreign) and 110 reliefs (60 Russian and 50 foreign) were purchased. The climbing wall equipment meets all international requirements.

After the presentation, representatives of about twenty media outlets tried their hand at speed climbing, a discipline in which our team has the most chances of winning the Military Games in Sochi. The best journalist was able to climb to a height of seven meters in one and a half minutes, while military athletes climb to the top point (15 meters) in 15 seconds.

The presentation of the climbing wall ended with a group photo of members of the Russian Armed Forces team, the coaching staff and CSKA officials.

The climbing competitions at the III Winter World War Games will be held from 24 to 27 February. After the War Games, the climbing wall will be installed in the CSKA Athletics Arena on Leningradsky Prospekt in Moscow. As Dmitry Bychkov noted, "in the new Olympic cycle, the climbing wall installed at the CSKA exercise club will become the main training base for the Russian national team, where the main All-Russian competitions will also be held."