Finishing from osb plates: options for interior finishing for leveling and lathing, how to calculate the number and install panels. How is the OSB installation on the walls? What is the best way to fix the OSB to the wall

OSB(oriented strand board) is a widely demanded structural material that has all the necessary advantages that allow it to become a serious competitor Chipboard slabs and plywood. The use of the material is extremely important when it comes to cladding buildings. In addition, OSB boards have proven themselves to be excellent floor coverings. The building product has a number of advantages, including: high strength, moisture resistance, durability and low price.

Although the moisture resistance characteristics do not apply to all such products. For cladding the facades of buildings, it is appropriate to use plates of a certain marking OSB-3, OSB-4. In this post, at your discretion, the ways of fixing the OSB will be presented.

Fastening OSB using lathing

A metal profile or wooden beams are used as a crate. For wooden lathing, it is rational to use 40 - 50 mm planed timber. Let it dry properly to avoid deformation.

Before proceeding with the installation process, it is necessary to carry out a vertical marking on the base. The distance between the marked verticals should be half the width of the sheet. This will ensure that the adjacent sheets dock in the middle of the batten. Presumably, the lines are drawn, which means that you can mount the suspensions, ideally the distance between which should be from 30 to 40 cm.

The technology for fastening a wooden and metal frame is almost identical; in both cases, the use of a special metal plate (suspension) is appropriate.

If desired, the space of the structure is filled with insulation, which is covered with a membrane on top. In this way, the thermal insulation will be reliably protected from moisture ingress.

Next, the crate is mounted, after which the fastening process begins OSB... As a rule, these are 9 - 12 mm slabs. If you have a wooden batten, the OSB is secured with nails long enough to hold the board properly. The plates are attached to the metal profile by using self-tapping screws, which are 10 - 15 mm longer than the thickness of the plate itself.

Fastening OSB to a timber frame

In the case when strong plates are fixed to the frame from the inside, which positively affect the rigidity of the structure, a lathing can be made between the frame and the OSB. Thanks to the lathing, the space is created, which is necessary for ventilation of the thermal insulation layer, as well as to reduce the load that can lead to deformation.

As in the previous method, a heater is located between the racks, which, together with the racks, is torn by wind and waterproofing protection. Then the crate is attached, and on top of it OSB boards.

Fastening OSB directly to the base itself

Fastening the slabs without pre-installing the lathing allows you to achieve the greatest rigidity of the structure. With this method of installation, the wind and waterproofing layer is laid behind the OSB. After that, the crate is mounted in order to create a ventilation gap and is already attached on top of it finishing material, which can be used as siding or decorative panels. Plates, as in the previous method of fastening, are fixed to the tree with nails. It is desirable that the length of the nails be at least 2 times the thickness of the most OSB sheets... Why nails as fasteners? Yes, because due to atmospheric phenomena, the tree can deform, the nails "more painlessly" endure such loads.

Fastening OSB to a metal frame

The whole installation process is similar to fastening to a wooden frame, with the only difference that self-tapping screws are used as fasteners.

OSB - basic principles of installation

- Ideally, the distance between fasteners in the form of self-tapping screws should be about 12 - 16 cm, while it is necessary to step back from the edge of the plate by at least 1 cm.

- In order to avoid water accumulation, it is advisable to leave a 10 cm gap between the bottom sheet and the foundation.

- It is necessary to maintain a 2 - 3 mm gap between the plates, as they can gain in volume and expand.

- It is best to use a jigsaw to cut OSB boards.

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and is widely used in the construction of frame houses and the decoration of buildings and structures. Internal and external walls, floors and roofs are sheathed with OSB boards. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction when the slab acts as a structural material and serves to strengthen the walls of a building, or when it acts as a facade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by the low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will consider the question: how to fix OSB slabs to the wall from its outside.

For cladding external walls, it is necessary to use boards with the OSB-3 brand, specially made for an environment with high humidity. You can find out how the types of OSB sheets differ on the page: OSB sheets, their types, characteristics, sizes.

When installing OSB slabs to external walls, the crate is used for the following purposes:

• alignment of the plane of the wall;
• creating a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB slab;
• prevention of deformation of the slab caused by base movements is especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall on top of the insulation using lathing

The fixing of the slab to the wall is carried out using a lathing, which is made from a wooden bar, or a metal profile. Technologies for mounting OSB boards on a wall with wooden crate and crate from a metal profile do not fundamentally differ. When choosing a bar, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed bar of 40-50 mm, then it will not turn out and will not lead after drying, which will have a positive effect on the evenness of the entire wall.

To fasten the bar and profile to the wall, use special metal plates(suspensions). Before fixing the suspensions, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which, subsequently, will ensure the joint of the slabs right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB slab in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, suspensions are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

The metal hanger is used to fasten the battens.
Suspensions are attached along the marked lines. Suspensions allow you to fix the crate over the insulation.

After that, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the crate is mounted.

It should be noted that vapor barrier is not needed outside the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and with outside structure, excess moisture should freely go outside.

Wall with lathing. Insulation is installed between the crate and the wall.

After fixing the lathing, you can proceed with the installation of OSB boards. For wall cladding, a plate from 9 to 12 mm thick is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. OSB boards are fastened to the lathing made of wooden beams with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet. To the crate from a metal profile - on self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the crate weighs over the insulation, and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, the maximum efficiency of the insulation is achieved. In addition, there is an air gap between the battens of the crate, through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also increases its characteristics. For more information on ventilated facade technology, see the article: ventilated facades, types of ventilated facades.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses with timber frame two main approaches are used: fastening the OSB sheets to the frame through the crate and fastening the OSB sheets directly to the frame without the crate. Consider the case of fixing OSB boards using lathing.

When strong slabs are attached to the frame from the inside of the wall to ensure good rigidity of the wall structure, then a sheathing can be made from the outside between the frame and the OSB plate. The lathing forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the frame posts. On top of the racks and insulation, a wind and waterproof membrane is attached, which easily allows moisture to pass through. Next, the crate is attached and the OSB slabs on it.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with lathing.

With this design, the slabs can be left without finishing, you can paint them, plaster or fix almost any facade material on them.

When fixing OSB boards without using a crate, the maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to fasten the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB plate, then mount the crate to create a ventilation gap and front material on it, such as siding, boards or decorative panels. OSB boards are fastened to the timber frame with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fixing OSB from the outside of the house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformation of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

The technology of fastening OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of crate.

For example, during construction frame house according to the Finnish technology "Platform" there is no crate between the frame and the OSB foxes. More details about this technology can be found in the article: construction of a frame house using the "Platform" technology.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out in the same way as with a wooden frame. When fixing the plates directly to the metal frame, self-tapping screws for metal are used with a length of 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for mounting OSB plates to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fixing OSB sheets, there is general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the sheathing structure.

• Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate.
• A gap of 10 mm is required between the bottom plate and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
• Plates cannot be joined close to each other, a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them, so that the plate can expand unhindered by changes in humidity.
• All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw, but if perfectly smooth joints and cuts are needed, then you can ready-made sizes and come to the furniture shop with OSB sheets, where for a small fee they will saw your sheets on a panel saw exactly and exactly to size.

Wall cladding with OSB plates

Technology for cladding the walls of the house with OSB slabs from the outside of the wall. How to fix OSB slabs on walls with and without wooden and metal lathing.

How to properly fix the OSB slab on the roof

Correct installation of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself

Correct styling OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself

For laying OSB on walls, plates of various thicknesses and industries are used. The selection of material is made in accordance with the operating conditions of the premises. Depending on what climatic loads the house will bear, the type of OSB used is selected. It is worth noting that laying OSB 3 makes sense in the case when high requirements for moisture resistance and strength are imposed on the material.

If the boards are used for cladding a small room, it is allowed to use OSB 3 10 mm thick. In other cases, experts advise using sheets with a thickness of 12 mm. Fastening of slabs is allowed along or across structural beams. In the case of horizontal installation, the plates must be provided with stiffeners under all joints and free edges. The slabs can be provided with a frame structure on one or both sides. The center-to-center distance between the beams should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. The expansion gap between the walls and near the openings should be at least 3 mm wide.

The slabs are fastened with nails that are approximately 2.5 times thicker than the slabs. If spiral nails are used, their length must be at least 51 mm. In the case of annular applications: 45 mm ÷ 75 mm. The nails are driven in at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge of the slab. Fasteners are placed every 30 cm on intermediate supports and every 15 cm on OSB 3 joints.

The principle of laying OSB 3 on the floor

For laying the floor, use hard and load-resistant slabs. The most suitable installation is OSB-3. If the installation of sheets will be carried out on a concrete screed, then the required layer thickness should be 6 ÷ 9 mm. If the slabs will be laid directly on the logs, then the layer thickness should be 15 ÷ 22 mm (in the case of laying the plates in one layer) and 9 ÷ 12 mm (in the case of a double layer). The center-to-center distance between the beams should be 60 cm. The distance between the logs varies depending on the thickness of the plates used.

If OSB-3 is laid close to the ground, care must be taken to create a waterproofing layer on the outside of the floor. It is also necessary not to forget to provide drainage holes.

In order to calculate the required number of slabs, you need to add the required amount of material for undercuts to the area of ​​the room (no more than 7%). After that, divide the resulting number by the area of ​​one sheet and determine the required amount of material.

Plates are laid perpendicular to the axis of the beams. When laying sheets, a temperature gap should be left in order to enable the plates to work. The size of the provided gap is usually 3 mm, but in the case of laying slabs between the walls, 12 mm should be left. Plates are connected on logs, or, if necessary, on an additional support or using a bracket.

As in the case of laying the wall, the nails used to fasten the walls can be circular or spiral, with the same dimensions. The center distance between the fasteners should be 30 cm on the supports and 15 cm on the material joints. It is permissible to use glue to increase the rigidity of the floor.

The basics of proper installation of OSB 3 on the roof

To install OSB-3 on the roof, you must first prepare the surface well - it should be as flat as possible. Irregularities in the future can spoil the appearance of the coating. If the laying is done on unheated rooms in the future, then you need to think in advance about sufficient ventilation. For this, it is necessary to provide for the presence of holes, the number of which must be at least 1/150 of total area... It is also necessary to dry well the sheets used for the coating in case of unintentional wetting.

The slabs should be laid along the bars, while paying attention to the fact that each slab is located on at least two bars and connected on a support. If necessary, it is allowed to create additional supports. When laying the boards, it is necessary to provide a gap of 3 mm to prevent the consequences of temperature changes.

Requirements for fasteners are the same as in the case of wall and ceiling cladding: spiral 51 mm nails or ring nails with a run of length from 45 mm to 75 mm. Nails are driven in every 30 cm at the rafter legs and every 15 cm at the slab joints. The distance from the edge of the slab to the nail is at least 1 cm. The center-to-center distance of the rafters is 60 cm (9–12 cm thickness of the slabs) and 100 cm (15–18 cm).

If there is a chimney, the sheets must be moved away from it in accordance with Building Regulations.

During OSB mounting 3 on the roof, adhere to all safety rules at height.

Installation of OSB roof cladding with slabs for flexible shingles

Before installing the roof sheathing, make sure that the rafter legs or battens are level. Curved or uneven rafter legs will affect the final appearance of the roof and make installation difficult. Boards soaked in rain should be left to dry completely and protected from biological corrosion before shingles, roofing sheets or other covering are laid. Moisture should not exceed 20% of dry weight. Cold attics should be well ventilated. Ventilation openings must be at least 1/150 of the entire horizontal surface of the roof.

It is necessary to leave a gap of about 3-4 mm between the OSB sheets, because due to changes in temperature and humidity, linear expansion of the sheets occurs. The absence of a gap can lead to deformation of the base. The slab must be laid on at least two supports, and the joints of the slabs must also be on the supports.

The required thickness of OSB sheets is determined by the project. The designer determines how thick the plywood should be used over the stepped sheathing, depending on the planned loads (the sheathing pitch is also determined by the designer). Rafter legs, pitch, section and fastening design are also determined based on the project.

An example of a preliminary estimate of the dependence of the distances between the battens and the thickness of the OSB board used for roofs with an inclination of more than 20 degrees, a rafter pitch of 600 mm and a snow load of 100 kg / sq.

If the roof structure has openings for chimneys, then the roof sheathing must be moved away from the chimney at a distance corresponding to the accepted Building codes... For fixing the slabs, spiral nails with a length of 51 mm or ring nails with a length of 45 mm to 75 mm should be used. Nails are driven in every 30 cm on the rafter legs or battens and every 15 cm at the slab joints. The distance from the nail to the edge of the slab should not be less than 1 cm.

OSB also works well with prefabricated roof trusses. Prefabricated trusses speed up the roof erection process and at the same time provide a surface for exterior cladding roofs, insulation and ceiling finishes. In most cases, trusses are supported on external walls - without intermediate supports on internal walls. This option increases the load on the trusses in the case of a large distance between the walls, but gives more freedom in the choice of placement. internal partitions.

How to properly fix the OSB slab on the roof

Correct laying of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB on your own Correct laying of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself For laying OSB on walls, plates of various thicknesses are used ...

OSB APPLICATION GUIDE

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE OF THE ORIENTED OSB CHIPBOARD (OSB, OSB)

1. Orientation of slabs:

This structure provides a high level of: Dimensional consistency; Fracture resistance (bending strength); Shear strength within the slab.

inscriptions (markings) on the edge of the slab. On milled panels

the longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the marking on the surface of the panel.

Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to observe the correct orientation of the slab specified by the designer (especially in single-layer building structures).

2. Acclimatization of plates and protection from water and humidity

Premises with constant heating 6 - 9%. Premises with periodic heating 9 - 10%. Premises without heating 16-18%

OSB boards, when storing and using, must be protected from the effects of water.

After installation on the outside of the building, on the walls and roof, it must be covered with appropriate insulation to protect against adverse weather conditions. The edges of OSB 3 boards (especially at the edges) are exposed to high humidity, may swell moderately (in accordance with the norm). In this case, before installing the final elements (for example, asphalt shingle on the roof), it is necessary to evenly grind the joints of the slabs (to ensure a level surface). To prevent damage to OSB boards, it is necessary to eliminate excessive moisture that can be caused by:

1. Using too damp or wet materials;
2. Installation on non-dried objects erected using "wet" processes;
3. Errors during insulation work (water leakage into the structure, incorrect installation of the vapor barrier, etc.);
4. Insufficient weather protection (external walls and roof must be protected with appropriate insulation immediately after installation).

3. Cutting, milling, drilling

feed used when processing solid wood. The boards must be fixed in such a way that the boards do not vibrate during processing. It is allowed to cut slabs using a hand-held power tool

4. Fastening plates

The minimum diameter (section) of the staples should be 1.5 mm with a length of 50 mm; For OSB, you can use nails as for solid wood, screws or staples. When installing supporting structures, it is necessary to use connecting elements made of stainless materials (galvanized or stainless steel). Strengthening the strength of the connection can be achieved by using special nails; ring or spiral (the use of nails with a smooth shank is not recommended.). The length of the connecting elements must be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board to be attached, but in no case less than 50 mm; the distance from the connecting element to the edge of the slab must correspond to the sevenfold diameter of the connecting element (i.e., when using nails with a diameter of 3 mm, at least 20 mm); the maximum distance between nails driven into the edge of the slab should not exceed 150 mm; the maximum distance between nails driven in the middle of the slab should not exceed 300 mm; slabs with smooth edges are mounted on supports (ceiling frame, ceiling beam); fastening OSB boards of low thickness should start from the middle of their upper part and continue fastening evenly in the direction of the sides and downward (to prevent swelling and sagging of the board).

5. Expansion clearances

(lat.dilatatio - extension)

1. When installing slabs as a supporting structure of "floating" floors, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 15 mm when they are joined to the wall.
2. When installing slabs as wall cladding, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 10 mm wide when they are joined to the foundation;

If the length of the surface on which the slabs are mounted exceeds 12 m, it is necessary to leave expansion gaps between the slabs with a width of 25 mm every 12 m.

• plates with smooth edges - it is necessary to leave at least 3 mm wide gaps between them when joining.
• slabs with milled edges (ridge-groove). When joining, expansion gaps are formed by themselves.

Expansion gaps with a width of 3 mm must also be left when joining plates with other structures, for example, with a window frame, doors, etc.

6. Surface protection and painting

paint manufacturers. For interior surfaces to be painted, we recommend using sanded boards. To paint the surface of the boards, you can use the usual colorless or colored paints used for painting wood.

7. Application

A2 - Detail of precast roof for wet environments

B1 - Asphalt roof detail

B2 - Detail of asphalt roofing for wet environments

C - Detail of an external load-bearing wall

D1 - Detail of an internal load-bearing wall

D2 - Detail of the internal partition

E1 - Slab detail with "light" floating floor

E2 - Slab detail with "heavy" floating floor

F - Tables for pre-selection of slabs

G - Basic principles of using OSB boards in timber structures and buildings

h2 - General principles of creating structures for ceilings and floors

h3 - General principles of creating structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

p - General principles for creating pitched roof structures

8. Basic principles of using OSB boards in wooden structures and buildings.

resistance to the destructive effects of biological factors. To ensure a long service life and reliability of new wooden structures and buildings, it is necessary to analyze all designed structures from the point of view of possible diffusion and condensation of water vapor or the ratio of temperature and humidity, as well as the corresponding stable moisture content of the tree for compliance with the requirements setting the environmental parameters for the use of OSB boards.

Wood moisture graph

The main difference in the possible limitation of the effect of water vapor penetrating through the structure arises from the method of analyzing the properties of the vapor barrier. The vapor barrier layer of the building structure, which limits the penetration of water vapor from the environment into the building structure, due to the equalization of the temperature and pressure of water vapor in the internal and external environment. Throughout

of this process, as a result of a decrease in temperature below a certain value, condensation of water vapor may occur. The resulting condensation can have a negative effect on the properties.

building structure or reduce its service life. By limiting the penetration of water vapor into the structure, it is meant to limit diffusion (penetration of water vapor due to partial pressure) and the flow of moisture (penetration of water vapor due to air current). In the specialized literature, you can find the classification of materials for the vapor barrier layer according to the equivalent diffusion thickness. The equivalent diffusion thickness Sd (m) is defined as the air gap, which has the same resistance to water vapor as the corresponding layer of the building structure.

The Sd value is not the value of the diffusion resistance of the structure layer, given in m / s -1). A significant increase in moisture in the outer layer in comparison with the design model at the site of damage to materials is caused by the spatial distribution of moisture and their unequal properties.

Differences in material properties can be caused by the following:

1. violation of technological discipline
2. poor-quality connection of certain types of materials and their contact with openings and surrounding structures
3. aging compounds

1. OSB-2 Support plates for use in dry environments (resistance to humidity 12%)
2. OSB-3 Baseboards for use in humid environments (24% humidity resistance)

OSB boards are classified as OSB-2 and OSB-3 according to the standard.

It is characterized by moisture content in construction materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20 ° C. and relative humidity of ambient air exceeding 65% for no more than several weeks a year. Average persistent humidity of most conifers does not exceed 12%.

It is characterized by a moisture content in construction materials that corresponds to a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of the ambient air exceeding 85% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 20%.

It is characterized by climatic conditions that increase the moisture content of the materials compared to moisture class 2.

9. Ceiling constructions

1. Plates with smooth edges should be mounted on load-bearing beams with an expansion gap of 3 mm.
2. Plates with “tongue-and-groove” edges must be glued with glue (for example, polyurethane) to increase the rigidity.
3. Install all slabs so that their longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the beams.
4.  Make sure that all faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on the beams.
5. The expansion gap along the perimeter of the walls must be at least 15 mm.

Fasteners:

1.  Nails with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, at least 50 mm, if possible with a spiral or grooves.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, at least 45 mm. (screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm are recommended).
3. The maximum distance between the nails is 150 mm at the joints of the slabs, 300 mm on the plane of the slab.
4. Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the plate.

Under wooden ceilings on the first floor, located above the base, waterproofing is laid directly on the base to protect it from moisture (film). Protect during installation ceiling structures from possible exposure to rain. At open ceiling holes must be made in it for water drainage. Recommended max. center-to-center distance between racks: min. the recommended board thickness is 15 mm. 18 mm. 22 mm. The center-to-center distance between the racks is 300 mm. 400 mm. 600 mm. 800 mm

The center-to-center distances between the uprights are approximate. Sizing is done taking into account the length of the slab and a certain exact value of the load on the slab.

10. Constructions of floors on a load-bearing crate

The installation principles are the same as in the case of ceiling installation. When installing the slabs, first lay a soundproofing layer on the supporting beams (cushions) to absorb the sound of footsteps.

11. Constructions of "floating" floors

The floor structure consists of one OSB board (OSB, OSB), "tongue-and-groove" thickness. 18 - 22 mm or from two boards (recommended) thick. 12 - 18 mm (min.9 mm). The spreading surface of the floor can be composed of one slab

OSB, for floors that do not have high requirements for shape consistency, or in cases where the effect of concentrated load is not expected (in places above the tongue-and-groove connection). Otherwise, use a two-layer or multi-layer floor structure.

The boards are laid on soundproofing to absorb the sound of footsteps (rigid mats made of mineral wool or polystyrene intended for use in floor structures). Separate layers of boards are laid in mutually perpendicular directions and connected by gluing on the surface or using screws. When using screws, we recommend connecting the boards in both directions or placing an intermediate layer between them (extruded microporous polyethylene or PSUL sealing tape) to prevent possible squeak.

12. General recommended principles for creating structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

1. OSB boards used for walls are mounted vertically or horizontally. When installing load-bearing walls, it is recommended to use slabs that correspond in length to the height of the walls (to facilitate the determination of the required dimensions and installation of the slabs).
2. For horizontal installation of slabs, it is necessary to put slab strips or stiffeners under all joints and free edges.
3. The slabs can be fitted with a wooden frame structure on one or both sides. Plates are allowed to be mounted on the outer and inner sides of the load-bearing walls.

To prevent possible water absorption, the expansion gap between the frame and the concrete foundation must be at least 25 mm wide. Expansion gaps can be formed by installing the entire wooden

structures on wedge pads, and fill the entire gap under the supporting wooden frame with cement mortar. If the frame is installed directly on the foundation, then it is necessary to ensure its chemical protection and raise the slabs above the foundation level to a height of at least 25 mm. An expansion gap of at least 3 mm must be left between the walls and along the perimeter of door and window openings.

1. Nails with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, at least 50 mm, if possible with a spiral or grooves.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, at least 45 mm (screws at least 4.2 x 45 mm are recommended).
3. Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab, in load-bearing walls - at a distance 7 times greater than the diameter of the fastening material (at least 20 mm)
4. The recommended thickness of the slabs for sheathing the walls of the frame is at least 12 mm with the arrangement of racks every 400 - 625 mm.

Thermal and waterproofing of slabs:

1. It is recommended to use mineral wool on the front side as additional heat and sound insulation. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the method of fixing this facade system.
2. When using boards for wall cladding from the outside, it is necessary to take into account the diffusion resistance of the board to the penetration of water vapor. On the other hand, slabs mounted on the inside of the wall can serve as a structural element with diffusion resistance (provided that the joints of the slabs and structural elements are sealed with an appropriate insulating tape). When using “tongue-and-groove” boards, the tape can be replaced by gluing the ridge in the groove with glue (PUR, PVA).
3. The joint of the lower edge of the wooden structure with the foundation must be covered with a protective waterproofing compound (for example, based on bitumen emulsions).

1. Plate thickness; 9 - 12 mm. 12 - 15 mm. 15 - 22 mm.
2. At the edges of the slab; 100 mm. 125 mm. 150 mm.
3. On the surface of the slab; 200 mm. 250 mm. 300 mm.

For load bearing walls, the center distance between the fasteners is determined by static analysis.

13. General recommended principles for creating pitched roof structures

1. Before starting the installation of slabs on the roof structure, it is necessary to check the location of the rafters in the axes, whether they have curvatures and distinctive dimensions. Curved and differently sized rafters adversely affect the properties and appearance of the roof.
2. The plates are connected in such a way that the edges perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie along the entire length on supports (rafters, slats, etc.) Therefore, it is recommended to choose the location of the rafters in modules with a span of 833 mm or 625 mm.
3. In the case of a different or greater span length (> 833 mm), in order to improve the surface of the roof structure, it is necessary to choose an option with a longitudinal lathing of slats or boards 80-100 mm wide. The use of strips mounted with a pitch (in the axes) of 417 or 625 mm, it is possible to achieve a reduction in the thickness of the slab (depending on the load).

Plates with a straight edge

1. There must be a 3 mm expansion gap between the boards.
2. To level the roof surface and accelerate the temperature leveling of the slabs, it is recommended to reinforce the longitudinal edges of the slabs with steel H-brackets.

Flange-groove slabs

To strengthen the roof structure and increase the diffusion resistance of the structural layer, glue the edges with glue (eg PUR, PVA).

1. Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, that is, 50 - 75 mm, if possible with a spiral or grooves, galvanized or stainless steel, with a diameter of at least 3 mm.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, but not less than 45 mm (screws with a size of at least 4.2 x 45 mm are recommended).
3. Nails are driven in at a distance 7 times the diameter of the fastening material, but not less than 20 mm.

Environmental exposure (temperature and humidity)

Plates are used in the roof structure as a material with diffusion resistance. In rooms with a normal air humidity of 50% (residential and office premises, etc.), they can be used in structures without a vapor barrier, provided that the expansion gaps of the slabs are sealed with appropriate insulating tape or by gluing the tongue-and-groove joints.

Environmental protection

1. Center distance between rafters; 600 mm. 800 mm 1000 mm.
2. Min. recommended plate thickness; 12 mm. 15 mm. 18 mm.
3. Recommended distance between fasteners on the plane of the slab and the edge of the slab; 150 mm.
4. Roof slope 40 ° and more - 150
5. Roof slope 30 ° - 40 ° - 200
6. Roof slope< 30°- 300
7. Nails [mm] 3.1 x 50

Dimensions are based on the updated static load on the slabs. Boards that have been exposed to water (e.g. rain) must be dried before installation and roofing.

14. General principles of storage and warehousing

OSB boards (OSB, OSB)

For storage of slabs, it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation.

It is also possible to store the boards under a canopy so that they are not exposed to the risk of exposure to atmospheric precipitation.

If it is impossible to store under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare a flat horizontal surface and provide insulation from the ground with a layer of film, as well as wrap the pallet with foil.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should be laid flat on a flat surface.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should not come into contact with the ground to avoid possible contact with water.

Incorrect laying can lead to deformation and damage to OSB boards (OSB, OSB). When placing several packs one above the other wooden slats must be in the same vertical plane.

OSB protection (OSB, OSB)

The top of the packs should be covered with a protective panel to prevent mechanical damage. If the slabs are outdoors, they should be protected with a moisture-proof covering.

During transportation, OSB boards must be protected from atmospheric precipitation.

Like other wood-based panels, OSB (OSB, OSB) boards are hygroscopic and their dimensions change in response to changes in moisture. A change in the amount of moisture in OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can lead to changes in the dimensions of the boards, and this can cause problems during the operation of the boards. 1% change in moisture content typically increases or decreases length, width and thickness different brands OSB boards (OSB, OSB).

Installation of OSB boards - correct cladding and fastening to supporting structures

The main area of ​​application of OSB boards is the arrangement of structural elements of a building: roofs, floors, walls. At the same time, the installation of OSB slabs has some features, the knowledge of which will help to make the cladding of high quality and durable. Before starting the installation, you need to decide on the choice of hardware that will play a major role in securing the OSB.

Applicable nails and screws

There are many types of nails that are used depending on where the plate is attached and its weight:

• finishing: used where camouflage is desirable and the likelihood of being pulled out is minimized. Often used in conjunction with glue.
• round without a head: needed when laying floors, when installing frame structures and when fixing slabs with tongue-and-groove joints
• with a hat: used where there is no need for camouflage;

There are also special nails that have a ring or screw type thread. Such hardware better hold the nailed plate, but are difficult to pull out.

It is best to fix the panels with screws designed for working with wood - the reliability of the fixing increases dramatically. In this case, the use of a much smaller number of screws is allowed when compared with the number of nails. If necessary, the screw can be easily unscrewed by switching the screwdriver to reverse.

Roof trim

Before starting installation, you must make sure that the battens or rafter legs are parallel. The surface must be leveled, and non-observance of this requirement leads to the impossibility of a reliable tongue-and-groove connection.

If the slabs prepared for installation are exposed to rain, then they must be dried before laying.

Before installation, make sure that the attic space has adequate ventilation (the total area of ​​the ventilation openings should be at least 1/150 of the total area horizontally).

The largest part of the operating load should fall on the long axis of the slab. The articulation of the short ends should be carried out on the roof supports. The long sides are joined on auxiliary supports, the connection method is a groove-comb or H-shaped brackets.

If the edges of the slabs are even (i.e. there is no spike and groove), then a dilatation gap of 3 millimeters should be left. This will enable the material to change its dimensions with temperature changes without compromising the quality of the coating.

The slab must lie on at least 2 supports (the connection must fall on them). Below is the dependence of the distance between the elements of the lathing on the thickness of the OSB (for roofs with a slope of no more than 14 degrees):

• 1m: plate thickness from 18 mm;
• 0.8 meters: thickness from 15 mm;
• 0.6 meters: thickness from 12 mm.

When laying the slab next to the chimney, the norms established by SNiP must be observed. High-quality fastening of the OSB slab to the rafters is possible using ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long, or spiral nails 5.1 cm long. The distance to the edge of the slab cannot be less than 10 mm.

Installation of OSB on walls

Installation can be done in two ways: horizontally or vertically.

When going around the window, doorways a gap of approx. 3 mm must be left.

With a distance between the wall supports of 40-60 cm, it is recommended that the wall cladding with a slab 1.2 cm thick is recommended. If thermal insulation is required, then it should be organized before the plates are fixed. As a heat-insulating material, preference should be given to mineral wool.

For fixing the plates, two-inch spiral nails (51 mm) or ring nails with a length of 4.5 to 7.5 cm are used. They must be driven every 30 cm into intermediate supports. At the joints of the slabs, nails are driven in every 15 cm. From the edge, nails should be hammered in with a step of 10 cm (no closer than 1 cm from the edge).

Dilatation gaps should also be left:

• between top edge slabs and crown beam: 1 cm;
• between the bottom edge of the slab and the foundation wall: 1cm;
• between slabs that do not have a groove-ridge connection: 0.3 cm.

Laying on the floor

Before laying the material, it is necessary to make waterproofing (if the floor is made on the ground floor).

OSB plates should be connected on logs. If there are no grooves or ridges, maintain the same 3 mm gap. If you plan to arrange a floating floor, then leave a gap of 1.2 cm between the wall and the edge of the slab.

OSB sheets should be laid perpendicular to the logs. The long edges of the slabs should be connected to each other by means of a groove and a ridge, and in their absence - with H-shaped brackets. It is desirable that the joint rests on an auxiliary support. The short sides of the slab must be connected at the logs. The dependence of the thickness of the slab on the distance between the lags is shown below:

• from 1.5 to 1.8 cm: the distance between the lags is no more than 40 cm;
• from 1.8 to 2.2 cm: no more than 50 cm;
• from 2.2 cm: distance - 60 cm.

For fastening, the same types of nails are used that require OSB wall cladding and roof arrangement. On intermediate supports, nails are hammered in with a step of 30 cm, at the joints of the plates - with a step of 15 cm.

To increase the rigidity of the entire coating, giving it a holistic look, you can glue the plates to the logs. It will also be useful to glue the groove-comb connection.

It is necessary to use only synthetic glue (compositions for water based ineffective due to the presence of paraffin in the structure of the slab).

OSB finish

After fixing, you will need wall decoration from OSB. The most common way is putty. This method allows all gaps in the joints to be sealed to prevent moisture penetration. Plus, a well-done work will help prepare the slabs for possible further finishing (for example, varnishing or painting).

For an aesthetically pleasing look, it is better to use slabs specially sanded by the manufacturer. In this case, you will have to spend less time and material on future finishing.

Before carrying out work, you should walk on the slab with finely cut sandpaper, and then cover the surface with a primer (it should not be water-based). Next, you need to choose how to putty OSB. It is better if the composition you choose is colorless. To do this, use one of the types of putty:

After completing this stage, you can think about how to decorate the walls from OSB. For example, it can be varnishing. The board should be varnished in 3-4 steps with complete drying of each layer. Coating with varnish will give the surface a shine and provide reliable protection from moisture penetration.

Another finishing method is painting. Use paint that does not contain water. After priming and putting putty on the OSB board, it can even be laminated or finished with a special film.

Most of the home decoration methods are available after the OSB wall cladding has been made in compliance with the technologies and recommendations of the manufacturer.

Installation of OSB slabs: wall cladding, fastening, surface finishing

Installation of OSB slabs - correct cladding and fastening to supporting structures The main area of ​​application of OSB slabs is the arrangement of structural elements of a building: roof, floor, walls. Wherein

Since the end of the nineties, OSB boards with a thickness of 9-15 mm are usually chosen as the outside cladding of the frame of the house. And if quite a lot has been written about the OSB panels themselves, then it is rather difficult for a novice builder to find a description of the frame sheathing technology ...

And the lack of the necessary information, as a rule, leads to errors, such as sheathing the frame with OSB plates end-to-end, the wrong screw pitch is chosen for fixing the plates to the frame of the house, etc.

When studying options for wall cladding with OSB slabs in the materials of the Internet and in various forums, a lot of questions arise ...

Here are just a few of the most asked ones:

• Do you need or do not need a gap between the plates?
• Why is there an additional insert from the OSB panel on one version between the first and second floors, while in the other version it is absent?
• How to position the OSB slabs for wall cladding? Vertically or horizontally?
• What screw pitch should be chosen when fixing OSB panels to frame posts?
• What is the required length of screws or nails for fixing OSB sheets?

And so in order: Leave an expansion joint between OSB panels when sheathing walls, or fasten them end-to-end?

Let's think ... OSB board, like wood, expands or contracts depending on air temperature and humidity. What happens if there is no expansion joint between the panels, it is easy to understand by looking at Fig. 1. As the plates expand, they will converge at the edges and warp, as a result of which, after the first winter, we get swollen edges of the panels.

The expansion joint becomes especially relevant if the walls are planned to be sheathed not with OSB plates, but with plywood. The width of the expansion joint should be 3-5 mm. In practice, it is most convenient expansion joints to form using not spacers between the plates, but screwing a screw of the required diameter into the rack

To fix OSB sheets on the wall of the frame of the house, it is better to use phosphated (black) self-tapping screws 55-70 mm long, and when working with a pneumatic hammer, ( if you think about it, even on small house or an outbuilding, the number of nails that will need to be hammered goes into thousands ... so such a tool will be extremely useful, since budget models have now appeared on the market) special "ruff" nails with a notch length of 55-65 mm are used.

The length of nails or screws is determined by the following factor:

To securely fix the sheathing sheets on the walls of the frame of the house, it is necessary that the nail should enter at least 40-45mm into the rack of the frame of the wall of the house. We add the thickness of the used OSB sheets for sheathing the frame, usually sheets with a thickness of 9-12-15 mm are used, and we get the required length of nails or screws within 55-65 mm.

Nails and self-tapping screws are hammered in or screwed in at least 10mm from the edge of the OSB sheet in order to prevent the edge of the sheet from splitting. The distance between the nails (pitch) along the edge of the sheet is 150 mm, in the center of the sheet 300 mm. (fig. 2)

The main options for the location of the slabs when sheathing the wall frame can be reduced to the three most used:

• vertically fig. 3a
• horizontally fig. 3b
• variants with additional inserts fig. 3c

We'll look at these options in more detail next time ...

Recycling of waste from the woodworking industry is one of the most promising economic areas that are actively developing at the present time. Products made from wood waste, including plywood, chipboard and fiberboard, glued beams, etc., are used in the furniture industry and construction. In addition, today OSB boards have gained great popularity, the technical characteristics of which make it possible to use this material in a variety of production areas.

Structural features, pros and cons

The abbreviation OSB or OSB (OSB) stands for Oriented Strand Board, which translated from English means a plate of oriented strand. This new generation finishing material is 90% wood chips. They are pressed under the influence of pressure and high temperatures and are bonded with each other using special fillers, which are waterproof resins of synthetic origin.

The OSB board consists of several layers of shavings, and in each of them it is laid in a different direction... This technology allows you to achieve a high level of strength and durability of products. Provided the correct thickness is selected, the OSB board can withstand a very significant load, amounting to several centners.

Material pluses:

• High strength.
• Lightweight and resilient. Due to this quality, OSB boards are suitable for facing surfaces with a significant radius of curvature.
• Structural homogeneity. When bent, oriented strand boards do not delaminate or deform, unlike other popular cladding material- plywood.
• High performance of sound and heat insulation.
• Ease of processing and installation.
• Chemical and mechanical resistance.
• Bacteriological resistance.

Disadvantages of OSB boards:

• The presence of phenol in the composition of synthetic resins used in the composition of the material. However, OSB boards used for interior decoration undergo stricter quality control, and, therefore, their main safety indicators for humans fully comply with the norm. And recently, many manufacturers have completely excluded the use of formaldehydes in their production.
• Some types of material have little moisture resistance.

Varieties of OSB boards and their differences

Modern industry produces four types of oriented strand board (OSB) with slight differences in basic physical and technical characteristics. These include:

Name	Specifications	Scope of application
OSB 1	Low density, low strength and moisture resistance	Furniture manufacturing, interior decoration
OSB 2	Good strength with low moisture resistance	Manufacturing of internal partitions, floors
OSB 3	High level of strength and moisture resistance	Internal and external work (in the latter case, the material needs to be treated with special impregnation or painting)
OSB 4	Very high strength properties, very high moisture resistance	Construction of load-bearing elements of walls and roofs of buildings

Dimensions and thickness

When assessing the quality of oriented strand board, various indicators are used. One of the most important is their thickness, which can range from 8 to 26 mm (with a step of 1-2 mm). He has a direct impact on the use of this material. For example, when finishing various structures in which a high load on the slab is not expected, rather thin sheets, up to 16 mm thick, can be used. These are the walls, the foundations for soft roof etc. As the load increases, thicker slabs are used.

The standard dimensions of the OSB (OSB) board are: 2500 x 1250 mm. In addition, slabs of the following parameters can be found on sale:

Indicators	Sheet piling				Plates with smooth edges
Dimensions (length x width), mm	2440 x 1220, 2500 x 1250, 2440 x 590, 2500 x 625				2440 x 1220, 2500 x 1250, 2800 x 1250
Thickness, mm	15	16	18	22	9	10	11	12	15	16	18	22
Number of sheets in a package	55	50	45	35	100	80	75	70	55	50	45	35

Now many are equipping their balcony under workplace... And what is required in order to make a personal one, you can find out from our separate article.

Specifications

The use of OSB boards directly depends on their main technical characteristics, such as:

• Flexural and tensile strength.
• The degree of swelling in a humid environment (moisture resistance).
• Appearance.
• Processing ability.

The physical and technical indicators of this material can be presented in the form of a table:

	Flexural strength modulus, longitudinal axis, N / mm 2	Flexural strength modulus, transverse axis, N / mm 2	Swelling,%
OSB 1	2500	1200	25
OSB 2	3500	1400	20
OSB 3	3500	1400	15
OSB 4	4800	1800	12

Comparative technical characteristics of OSB boards (OSB) of popular types:

Indicators	Standard	Aggloply OSB 2	Aggloply OSB 3	OSB 2				OSB 3
Thickness, mm		10-18	10-18	6-10	10-18	18-25		6-10
Thickness tolerances, mm: unpolished slab polished plate	EN 324-1	0,3 0,3	0,3 0,3	within 0.8 within 0.8				within 0.8 within 0.8
Length tolerances, mm	EN 324-1	3	3	3				3
Width tolerances, mm	EN 324-1	3	3	3				3
Straightness, mm	EN 324-1	2	2	2				2
Right angle, mm	EN 324-2	1,5	1,5	1,5				1,5
Flexural strength, N / mm²: longitudinal axis transverse axis	EN 310	>35 >17	>35 >17	22 11	20 10		18 9	22 11
Transverse tension, N / mm²	EN 310	>0,75	>0,75	0,34	0,32		0,3	0,34
Formaldehyde, mg / 100g	EN 120
Swelling in 24 hours with full immersion in water,%	EN 317	12	6	20				15

Features of use

Due to their practicality and excellent physical and technical parameters, oriented strand boards are used in various industries production, including construction, furniture manufacturing, etc. At the same time, to the question: "OSB stove, what is it?" you can answer that easy-to-use, versatile material that can be used as an independent coating, as well as auxiliary element for preparing substrates of various types of coatings for finishing.

It is well suited for interior cladding of various premises, including balconies and loggias. In this case, the technical characteristics of the OSB 3 board the best way allow it to function as a base for laying floor coverings different types including tiles, laminate, linoleum and parquet boards. In this case, the sheets are laid on wooden blocks, after which working surface it is finally leveled with a concrete screed (rarely used), or the topcoat is immediately mounted on the sheets.

To provide better strength and the durability of the base for flooring from OSB plates, you can use two layers of sheets, laying them with an offset, fixing them together with adhesive and spiral and ring-type nails. During installation, it is imperative to leave small gaps between the plates in order to prevent their deformation during natural expansion during use.

The use of OSB boards on the balcony with various types of finishes has its own characteristics. For example:

• When installing oriented particle boards under the laminate, it is necessary to monitor the evenness of the surface at the joints of its sheets.
• When laying under linoleum or carpet at the joints of the material, to ensure maximum evenness, use sheets minimum thickness, seal the gaps with sealants.
• When used as a stand-alone floor covering. Additional protection of the material against abrasion and wear is needed. For this, after preliminary cleaning, it is covered with several layers of varnish.
• For ceramic tiles. The base of OSB boards must be completely motionless. Therefore, the sheets should be fixed especially carefully, and install lags for them with a smaller step.

When installing a subfloor from OSB slabs, the sheets are initially installed on the underside of the log. Wherein:

• The side of the slab facing the ground is treated with bitumen mastic.
• Insulation is laid in the space between the lags, which must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material (for example, glassine).
• Another OSB board is attached on top.

Which ones are used, as well as about their features, read the review article on our website.

An example of mounting an OSB slab on logs is shown in the video.

OSB plate photo

And here are some photos on the topic of our article.

What is OSB, their advantages and disadvantages, types of oriented strand boards and the rules for their selection, technology for mounting panels on logs and concrete base, features of decorative finishes.

Pros and cons of OSB flooring panels

Every year the demand for OSB boards is growing, which is not surprising, because the material has the following advantages:

• High level of panel strength. It is achieved due to the fact that in different layers of the board the chips are perpendicular. At the right choice the thickness of the tiles, the structure will be able to withstand large power loads.
• Light weight of the panels. The standard weight of a whole board is no more than 20 kilograms. Such material can be lifted by yourself, you do not have to hire a special team.
• The structure is resilient and flexible, which allows the boards to bend without fear of breaking. This is very useful if you want to make your OSB flooring with a rounded or other shape, as well as when working with uneven surfaces.
• The panels are characterized by a high degree of moisture resistance. This effect is achieved by treating the boards with resins. Compared to other wood building materials, this board will deform less when it comes into contact with water or moisture.
• It is convenient and easy to work with OSB. The panels can be installed using simple construction tools such as saws, drills and screwdrivers. The cuts are smooth, no additional processing is required for them. Various fasteners are well fixed on OSB - nails and self-tapping screws. Installation of slabs will not take much time.
• The material has high performance in thermal insulation. Since the OSB board contains more than 90% natural wood chips, they perform the function of floor insulation. Therefore, such a floor covering will not allow heat to evaporate quickly and will maintain a stable temperature in the room.
• OSB provide good level soundproofing. The panels are multi-layered, so they are good at absorbing any noise.
• Resistant to chemicals due to resin treatment.
• Chipboards are environmentally friendly. They are impregnated with special solutions that will prevent fungus or mold from forming on the boards.
• OSB panels are budget and affordable.
• OSB flooring perfectly levels the surface. The slabs can be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, thus creating an even surface on which the main finishing material can already be laid on top.
• They have a stylish wood-like color, due to which they do not require additional design processing.

There are not many drawbacks to the material. Of these, the following can be noted: when cutting slabs, it is necessary to work in a mask or respirator, since wood chips and dust are harmful to the respiratory organs. Moreover, some types of low-quality panels, when working with them, can emit dangerous carcinogenic substances.

In addition, an OSB subfloor may contain a synthetic substance such as phenol. But in the past few years, manufacturers have been actively solving this problem and switching to making panels without formaldehyde. Such material is considered absolutely safe for human health. You will find the Eco or Green label on its packaging.

The main types of OSB for flooring

OSB is a panel consisting of three layers of wood chips, which are pressed and glued in production using a waterproof resin. The direction of the chips inside the boards alternate: first along, then perpendicularly. Thanks to this arrangement, the plates are strong and hold the elements of the fastening system well.

Several types of OSB are used in construction work:

1. OSB-2... Such slabs have a low level of water resistance, therefore they are used only for interior decoration of dry rooms.
2. OSB-3... it universal boards... They tolerate high humidity both indoors and outdoors. The material is very dense, therefore it is used in construction work of any complexity.
3. OSB-4 panels... The most durable and moisture resistant type of slabs. They are often used to create structures in rooms with high level humidity.

Features of the choice of OSB slabs for the floor

The most versatile material for finishing the floor in a residential area is OSB-3. It is recommended to choose products made by Western European manufacturers. Such panels meet European quality standards and have a high density.

The thickness of the OSB slab for the floor can be different, but in order for the panels to retain heat well, perform soundproofing functions, and also level the surface, it is recommended to choose products with a thickness of eight to ten millimeters. When installing boards on logs, the recommended panel thickness is 16-19 mm. OSB-3 slabs withstand various power loads and movement of people well.

To smooth out small defects in the flooring well, it is enough to use a material ten millimeters thick. If the floor has strong bumps and cracks, then 15-25 mm slabs will be required.

OSB is often used on the floor for linoleum, parquet, tile or laminate. This material serves as a high-quality and durable base for decorative coating.

Technology for mounting OSB boards on logs

The choice of material and floor structure depends on the purpose of the room, its characteristics. As a rule, two main types of OSB slabs are used - on logs and directly on a concrete screed.

Advantages and disadvantages of fixing OSB panels on logs

This option for installing the subfloor is quite simple, it can be done in a few days on your own. OSB panels are dense, resistant to crumbling, moisture resistant, are not afraid of contact with biological and chemical substances and, most importantly, they are perfectly attached to the bars.

OSB slab floors on logs are an excellent alternative to concrete screed. Such installation saves money on building materials. In addition, the surface can be easily insulated, and the wiring of communications will not cause problems - they just need to be placed in the cracks between the wooden blocks.

The advantages of laying OSB on logs can be attributed to the fact that with their help the bases are perfectly aligned, even with the sharpest changes. The result is a smooth surface, and the floor structure is not weighted at the same time. If some panels become unusable, they can be easily replaced.

Of the disadvantages of this installation method, it can only be noted that the entire structure turns out to be quite high, about 90-95 mm, and this will make the room lower.

Preparatory work before laying OSB on logs

The beginning of the installation work is the preparation of the base. First of all, we inspect the floor for damage, cracks, chips, depressions, mold and mildew. If large defects are found, then they should be removed before laying the logs. Small flaws can be left, since the height of the lags will hide them in any case.

Mold and mildew must be removed without fail. If this is not done, microorganisms will infect lags, and over time, OSB plates. This will lead to premature deterioration of the floor covering. All debris from the floor surface should be removed.

Logs can be installed on a slope floor, but the maximum slope level should be 0.2%. To determine the angle, you must use a water level or a long building level. If too large slopes are found, then they should be leveled with a self-leveling compound.

The procedure for installing lags on the floor

The dimensions of the log beams are always calculated according to individual measurements. In this case, the products must be of the same dimensions.

After they are prepared, we proceed with the installation according to the following scheme:

• We install wooden beams around the entire perimeter of the room, fix them at the same distance from each other - 40 centimeters.
• The distance between the wall and the material should be no more than twenty centimeters.
• We fasten the lags to the base of the floor with bolts or self-tapping screws.
• The upper surfaces of the lags should be in a strictly horizontal plane. Their evenness should be periodically checked with a building level.
• If the room is humid enough, then the beams must be processed protective equipment from mold and mildew.
• If necessary, we put insulation in the gaps.

How to fix OSB to logs

To lay OSB panels on the floor, you will need such Building tools like a tape measure, hammer, water level, jigsaw and hammer drill. Also for the installation process, prepare special fastening systems for woodwork and a nailer.

Oriented strand boards with simple edges should be laid on the floor. It is good if there are grooves on them that will help fasten the panels together. To correctly calculate the required number of sheets, consider the fact that seven percent of the material will be lost during cutting.

It is quite easy to install OSB floors with your own hands according to the following instructions:

1. We lay the plates across the logs.
2. The seams between the panels should be minimal and run clearly in the center of the joist. A distance of about two millimeters should be left between the OSB so that the floor does not deform over time and does not begin to creak.
3. We leave a larger gap between the OSB board and the wall - 12 millimeters.
4. We fix the panels to the beams by means of self-tapping screws or nails (ring, spiral).
5. The step of fasteners along the sheet should be about 15 millimeters. On additional supports - 30 millimeters.
6. We place the fasteners that hold the slab around the perimeter at a distance of about 1 centimeter from the edge. This is necessary so that it does not crack.
7. The length of screws or nails should be 2.5 times the thickness of the board.
8. The gaps between the walls and the subfloor must be filled with construction foam or mineral wool.

Thus, using OSB boards laid on logs, you can prepare a rough base for further laying parquet, tiles or carpet on it.

Laying OSB panels on a concrete screed

The procedure for installing OSB boards on a concrete floor is preceded by preparatory stage... Debris and dust must be removed from the base. The surface must be clean for the glue to adhere well. Cover the base with a primer. It will help the glue to better adhere to the panels, and will also prevent the screed from "dusting" during operation.

• We lay the panels on the floor surface. If necessary, OSB undercuts with a jigsaw or saw.
• Next, we apply glue to the inner side of the board. To distribute the product evenly over the surface, use a notched trowel.
• We glue the particle boards to the concrete base. Additionally, they can be fixed using hammer-in dowels, which should be placed every half a meter.
• We leave an expansion joint between each slab, two millimeters thick.
• The gap between the walls in the room and the wood planks is no more than 13 mm. These seams are necessary so that during operation of the coating, swelling does not form due to temperature and humidity changes.
• The last stage of installing OSB boards on the floor is cleaning the panels from debris. We also carry out the sealing of all formed seams using polyurethane foam... It dries for three to four hours. Remove excess foam from the coating with a sharp knife.

Decorative finishing of the floor from OSB boards

After the installation of OSB boards on the floor is completely completed, you can start finishing the floor covering. If you plan to leave such a floor as the main one, then as an option, the surface can be completely varnished or painted, and skirting boards can be installed around the perimeter.

No additional preparation of OSB for painting is necessary. You just need to clean the floor from dust and cover it with a couple of layers of varnish or paint. This can be done either with a roller or with a spray. Hard-to-reach places should be painted over with a brush.

There are panels that are more expensive, but they are already available with a glossy sheen. Finishing such a coating will be very simple: you just need to refine the perimeter of the room with a plinth - and that's it, the floor is ready for use.

If you lay on top of the slabs roll materials, for example, carpet or linoleum, then make sure that all joints between OSB panels are flush with the entire surface and do not protrude anywhere. Any slight irregularities can be removed with sanding paper. The expansion gaps must be filled with an elastic sealant.

There is no need to prepare panels for laying on top of OSB laminate. Small irregularities at the joints will be leveled by the underlay.

How to lay OSB on the floor - watch the video:

Installation of OSB slabs is a way to inexpensively and efficiently level a concrete base. And if necessary, then create the floor from scratch by fixing the panels on the logs. Such a coating does not need expensive finishing or impregnation with moisture-resistant solutions, and you can even lay it yourself.

Have you ever wondered why America has long ago solved the problem with housing? It's simple, they massively build frame or panel board prefabricated houses, such buildings are cheap, and the time from "start to housewarming" is only two weeks. The problem with housing in cities and in our country was solved in a similar way, when panel houses were erected in the 60s. But in those days the state was not engaged in construction in the villages, no one applied accelerated technologies for low-rise buildings. Now everyone takes care of their home on their own, in this regard, frame and panel houses are so widespread.

For all operational characteristics, frame houses fully meet the most modern requirements. Except one. On TV, we are often shown the aftermath of a tornado in America, for example, many wooden structures are scattered around, whole cities are being wiped off the face of the earth. And all because most of their houses are of frame type, such houses cannot withstand hurricane gusts of wind. But do not worry, we do not have a tornado and never will, this disadvantage can be ignored.

Methods for cladding frame houses

What is a frame house? A frame is assembled from wooden beams, applied or edged timber from pine and spruce, insulation is made, internal and outer surfaces walls are sheathed various materials... For these purposes, drywall can be used, plywood, boards, plastic panels and OSB boards. Here we will dwell on the last material (OSB slabs). Let's talk about the technology, you will get several practical advice how to perform such work quickly and with minimal financial costs.

Choice of slabs

We recommend working with slabs 12 mm thick, but you can use thicker or thinner ones. Although we advise you to heed our advice: thinner ones raise concerns about strength, thicker ones will cost you dearly.

Boards must be dry, for long-term storage it is necessary to use a canopy. Work should only be carried out in dry weather. The number of slabs is determined based on the total area of ​​the walls of the building; it is not very difficult to carry out calculations. However, it must be borne in mind that the amount of unproductive waste will always be at least 10%. The more complex the architectural characteristics of the house, the more waste there will be, keep this in mind when purchasing the material.

General plating rules

There are many different options finishing of frame houses, both internal premises and facade walls. We will consider only one of these options - sheathing of external facade walls with OSB slabs. How will you sheathe indoor spaces- doesn't make much difference.

It can be mounted in a vertical or horizontal position, leave a gap of 2 ÷ 3 mm between the plates. To facilitate the process of setting the gap, you can use a simple device. Find any plastic strip of similar thickness and use it as a template, after fixing the slab, the strip is removed and used when securing the next slab.

The distance between the slab stops should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. This must be borne in mind during the construction of the frame; it is more optimal to use mineral or glass wool as insulation. Fasten the plates with spiral or ordinary nails, self-tapping screws and other hardware. The length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slab, while it should be borne in mind that the nail must enter the body of the beam to a depth of at least 40 mm. It is desirable that the heads of the fasteners have an increased diameter.

Nails should be driven in ≈ 30 cm from each other, in the places where the sheets are joined, nails are driven in at a distance of ≈ 15 centimeters. The distance from the edge of the slab to the nail must be ≥ 1 cm.

Frame house cladding technology

Initial data - the foundation has already been completed, the lower strapping row has been laid, vertical posts have been mounted at the corners and perimeter of the frame house.

• We recommend starting the installation of the first OSB sheet from the corner of the house. Fix it according to the level to the corner posts of the house, immediately fix the second sheet to the other side of the corner. During work, carefully check their position with a level. If you make a mistake on the first sheet by a few millimeters, then on the opposite corner your millimeters will turn into centimeters. It is very difficult to fix such a mistake. To fully guarantee the accuracy of upholstery with wall sheets, we advise you, as in many cases during construction work, to use strong ropes stretched along the walls. They will help you to accurately maintain the parallelism of the sheet installation lines.

• Fasten in a circle; it is necessary to leave space for window and door openings. Do not forget that the sheet must be reinforced around the entire perimeter of the openings; in some cases, for these purposes, you will have to install additional beams or special bearing racks.
• Upholstering the house with slabs from the corner greatly simplifies and speeds up the construction process - there is no need to install longitudinal jibs. In the future, these cuttings still have to be removed - an extra waste of time and material. But you cannot do without temporary transverse jibs, otherwise the frame will be too unstable.
• To facilitate the process of fixing OSB () to bottom harness we advise you to fix the bar small size at the junction of two large sheets OSB, then you can fasten the sheet to the uprights with screws or nails. If you have problems with horizontal position - on some sheets you can "sacrifice" the gap, make it a little larger or completely eliminate it. If this defect is on 3-4 sheets, then you can not be afraid of any deformation due to linear expansion of OSB sheets.
• Work in a circle from the bottom up.

• Install posts of internal load-bearing walls only when at least three walls of the house frame are assembled and upholstered.

Finishing of sheets can be done in any way. But we would advise you to additionally protect them. plastic panels or siding - this will significantly increase the life of the entire building.

Today frame houses are very popular. This is due to the fact that they are built quite easily and in a short time. The result is a full-fledged building that has a certain strength and good heat and sound insulation properties. When building a frame house, special attention is paid to its cladding. In this article, we will look at how to properly sheathe a smallpox frame house with panels from the outside in stages.

Advantages of OSB panels

OSB panels are a popular building material used in the construction of frame houses. They are used for interior and exterior wall and roof cladding. Plates have certain advantages, which include:

• material strength. Plates are produced with different indicators strength, which significantly affects their cost;
• moisture resistance, which makes it possible to use the material for sheathing a frame house outside in regions with moderate humidity;
• the versatility of the plates is due to the fact that they are used both for external cladding and for interior decoration;
• the strength and reliability of the slabs allows you to apply the finishing of the facade on top of them;
• environmental friendliness.

Possessing such advantages, OSB slabs have become the most common material used for cladding frame houses.

Sheathing features

So, as has already been determined, OSB slabs are most often used for cladding houses built using frame technology. To carry out high-quality and durable finishing of the house from the outside, it is necessary to correctly approach the selection and installation of plates. When buying slabs, you need to pay attention to their appearance. If possible, you can familiarize yourself with the quality certificates that are held by responsible manufacturers and sellers.

As for the installation of plates, here it is worth paying attention to the following nuances:

• work should be carried out in dry weather, which will prevent the finishing material and insulation from getting wet;
• during installation work, special attention is paid to the locations of the fasteners. They should be located at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. This will prevent the material from splitting when installing it;
• if we are talking about the cladding of a two-story building, then the slabs are positioned so that the overlap is in its middle;

It is advisable that the installation of OSB on the walls is carried out by specialists. OSB (oriented strand board) is a material that has gained popularity in the field of construction and home decoration. It is distinguished by a large number of advantages that allow it to be used in the exterior decoration of the home, in the cladding of internal walls and the design of partitions in the redevelopment process. In view of the increasing demand for this material, it is worth considering what are the advantages of OSB boards and where they are used, as well as what finishing methods exist for this material.

Advantages and disadvantages of OSB boards

According to builders, wall decoration with OSB plates has a number of advantages:

1. Compared to other materials that are sold in sheets, OSB walls are relatively inexpensive.
2. The manufacturing method assumes resistance to damage, which ensures a minimum of defects during production, transportation and after installation.
3. They are lightweight, so the installation of the slabs on the walls does not carry a large load on the supporting structures. Also, due to their lightness, these plates are easy to carry from place to place and install by hand.
4. These slabs look attractive on their own. There are several options for additional decorative finishes.
5. This material is resistant to moisture, decay, fungal infection and is of little interest to insects.
6. The strength of the slab structure does not interfere with drilling or other processing.

All these properties make the material suitable for external and internal work. However, when choosing, you should pay attention to the reputation of the manufacturer. Some firms, for the sake of economy, do not comply with technologies, so their products are of poor quality from an environmental point of view. Such plates can emit harmful substances. Any OSB products do not allow moisture and steam to pass through, therefore, in rooms with such a finish, you should take care of decent ventilation.

Areas of use

There are two main ways of working with OSB plates. First, it is a rough sheathing of the main wall, inside or outside. This option allows you to reduce the number of joints, level the wall and make it more durable. To achieve these results, it is worth considering a number of points:

1. The material is fastened every 30 cm in the intermediate sections and twice as often at the joints.
2. The outer edges are attached to the wall every 10 cm at a distance of at least 10 cm from the end of the sheet.
3. For ventilation, gaps are left between them, which are then filled with sealant. This is one of the main ways to provide ventilation for exterior walls.
4. When decorating a wall from OSB boards, you should take care of protection from wind and excessive moisture. Taking into account the peculiarities of the material for working outside, it is worth using a superdiffusion membrane; foil-clad polyethylene is useful for finishing inside.

Other nuances in the question of how to sheathe a wall with OSB plates are discussed in the following video:

Secondly, to change the layout of the rooms, you can use the OSB. To do this, use the installation on a wooden or metal profiles... Drywall is fixed in a similar way. The difference between OSB partitions is the resistance of this material to deformation, therefore, such interior elements do not bend under their own weight and are more reliably protected from cracks and other damage.

Since wood chip fragments are included in the basis of the material, in the manufacture of OSB boards they are covered with a special composition. It contains resins, wax or paraffin. It not only has a bonding effect, but also gives the surface evenness and smoothness, therefore, additional decoration of the OSB walls is associated with additional difficulties. First, the outer layer does not have adhesion properties. Secondly, some components contain fat and other substances that can seep through external Finishing work and spoil the final look, so you should consider options for decorative processing of the material before finishing the walls from OSB inside the house.

Finishing with paint or varnish

Painting or varnishing the walls is one of the budgetary ways to decorate the walls of rooms. But in order for the layers to lay down evenly, and in the future there were no unpleasant surprises, it is worth considering a number of points.

First, you need to inspect all the attachment points of the plates for not fully hammered nails or twisted screws. Such minor imperfections can lead to the appearance of rust stains through the paint. In the case of nails, it is worth using a doboiner, since when working with a hammer, not only will there not be a sufficient result, but the wall cladding will also suffer.

If it is planned that the inner walls will be painted, it is worth using an acrylic sealant to process the joints, since the paint does not apply well enough to the silicone look.

The obligatory stage of work is the surface. It will provide the material with great adhesion properties. In addition, the layer will lay on the prepared surface more evenly and give an appropriate effect. After the first coat of primer, pay attention to the condition of the pile. After such processing, it can rise, and the wall will lose its evenness.

To correct this deficiency, sand the surface and apply another coat of primer. After that, you can finish the walls of the room with varnish or paint. Depending on the humidity of the room, you can use the option on alkyd or acrylic. In some cases, it will also work. water-based paint... Some builders recommend acrylic varnish for walls.

For reliability and aesthetic beauty, it is recommended to apply the coating in 2-3 layers.

Preparation of OSB walls for wallpapering

Wallpaper is considered the most popular option for wall decoration, so they are used in rooms with walls finished with OSB slabs. Sometimes such a need arises in the process of redeveloping a space. So, before making a partition, you should make sure that it is in harmony with the rest of the interior.

Can be used if there is a need for the finished wall to become versatile for any kind of application decorative coating... With this version of wall processing, it is worth paying attention to some features:

1. The putty is applied to a clean surface. Dust, dirt, or other marks on the wall building materials can adversely affect the quality of the coating, therefore, before applying the putty, it is worthwhile to thoroughly wash the wall.
2. It is worth paying attention that the heads of the nails and screws are recessed as deep as possible, and it is better to remove the top layer with sandpaper. The surface for the putty should be slightly rough.
3. It is better to process the joints between the plates with a nitro-filler. This will ensure evenness and strength. Alternatively, a body putty can be used as its properties are designed for a moving object. In this regard, the composition has not only lightness, but also great connecting properties, and on the wall it does not collapse for a long time. After finishing preparatory work a layer of putty is applied.
4. After applying the composition, you can start priming the surface.

This option is convenient in that now, on top of the primer layer, you can use any decorative material without looking at features of OSB slabs.

OSB boards are versatile material for cladding the walls of a house or decorating rooms inside it. This raw material is used both for strengthening walls and creating partitions. It is strong enough, lightweight and resistant to mechanical stress, moisture, fungus and insects.

In order for this coating to last as long as possible, it is worth considering several factors before fixing the OSB. This is especially true of the distance between nails and screws, as well as the location of the joints. The appearance allows the use of OSB boards without any decorative processing. However, they can be putty, painted, varnished or prepared under wallpaper. Subject to technology, the result will be smooth walls, which will be the basis for any interior and will delight its owner for many years.

Since the end of the nineties, OSB plates with a thickness of 9-15mm are usually chosen as the outside cladding of the frame of the house. And if quite a lot has been written about the OSB panels themselves, then it is rather difficult for a novice builder to find a description of the frame sheathing technology ....

And the lack of the necessary information, as a rule, leads to errors, such as sheathing the frame with OSB plates end-to-end, the wrong screw pitch is chosen for fixing the plates to the frame of the house, etc.

When studying options for wall cladding with OSB slabs in the materials of the Internet and in various forums, a lot of questions arise ...

Here are just a few of the most asked ones:

• Do you need or do not need a gap between the plates?
• Why is there an additional insert from the OSB panel on one version between the first and second floors, while in the other version it is absent?
• How to position the OSB slabs for wall cladding? Vertically or horizontally?
• What screw pitch should be chosen when fixing OSB panels to frame posts?
• What is the required length of screws or nails for fixing OSB sheets?

And so in order: Leave an expansion joint between OSB panels when sheathing walls, or fasten them end-to-end?

Let's think ... OSB board, like wood, expands or contracts depending on the air temperature and humidity. What happens if there is no expansion joint between the panels, it is easy to understand by looking at Fig. 1. As the plates expand, they will converge at the edges and warp, as a result of which, after the first winter, we get swollen edges of the panels.

The expansion joint becomes especially relevant if the walls are planned to be sheathed not with OSB plates, but with plywood. The width of the expansion joint should be 3-5 mm. In practice, it is most convenient to form expansion joints using not spacers between the plates, but by screwing a screw of the required diameter into the rack

To fix OSB sheets on the wall of the frame of the house, it is better to use phosphated (black) self-tapping screws 55-70 mm long, and when working with a pneumatic hammer, ( if you think about it, even for a small house or outbuilding, the number of nails that need to be hammered goes into thousands ... so, such a tool will be extremely useful, since budget models have now appeared on the market) special "ruff" nails with a notch length of 55-65 mm are used.

The length of nails or screws is determined by the following factor:

To securely fix the sheathing sheets on the walls of the frame of the house, it is necessary that the nail should enter at least 40-45mm into the rack of the frame of the wall of the house. We add the thickness of the used OSB sheets for sheathing the frame, usually sheets with a thickness of 9-12-15 mm are used, and we get the required length of nails or screws within 55-65 mm.

Nails and self-tapping screws are hammered in or screwed in at least 10mm from the edge of the OSB sheet in order to prevent the edge of the sheet from splitting. The distance between the nails (pitch) along the edge of the sheet is 150 mm, in the center of the sheet 300 mm. (fig. 2)

The main options for the location of the slabs when sheathing the wall frame can be reduced to the three most used:

• vertically fig. 3a
• horizontally fig. 3b
• variants with additional inserts fig. 3c

We'll look at these options in more detail next time ...