Repairs Design Furniture

How exactly to drive the board on the machine. Correct the boards curves. Self-leveling mixture - a universal means to adjust the floor

Completing all the work correctly, you can be sure that the wooden floor will become perfectly smooth, a variety of irregularities will disappear, and will not affect the quality of the new coating.

How to determine the condition of the floor from the tree in the house

Before laying the laminate, parquet either linoleum, you should estimate the condition of the floor from the tree and align it.

Before leveling the surface, clean the floor from the residues concrete coating, dust, etc. It is also necessary to eliminate all cracks, holes. Thanks to this, you can prevent the material flow and premature coverage.

Alignment and adjustment can be carried out by any of these methods:

  • Cyclevka
  • Self-leveling mixture
  • Plywood
  • Glue and sawdust

Only by analyzing the state of the boards, you can choose suitable option. First of all, the boards should be examined on the predisposition to rot and the presence of insects. The main enemies of the wood are insects, which lay eggs in it, destroying the organic structure of the material.

Moreover, insects, multiplying, can destroy the tree for several years, turning it into the molded duct. The boards should be treated with a special solution to get rid of cores.

It is worth noting that the floor of the tree does not have to be damaged, perhaps the boards simply "led". In such situations, the floor in the house remains strong, without insects and rot, but with some irregularities. You can lay the laminate, but it will not last long.

How to align the wooden floor?

Cyclevka - the best wayIf the boards "led". This option is possible only if the floor is horizontally. The advantage of the cyclove is that such a procedure does not simply level, but also emphasizes the structure of the tree, refreshing the cut.

Disadvantages this method You can call the complexity of the process, expensive rental of the cyclical apparatus.

Cyclish is needed in a protective mask or respirator, overalls and headphones that will protect you from loud noise.

Such processing includes the following steps:

  • puttinging nails a couple of millimeters below floor level
  • protection of furniture from dust
  • processing apparatus
  • putclone (using acrylic putty the desired color You should hide large cracks)
  • final processing of the squash machine

It is best to start with a long corner of the room. After the end of the last stage, the dust should be collected with a vacuum cleaner and treat with a special solution. Now the floor is ready, it can be lacquered, or to fit the laminate.

Wooden floor alignment in the house

The alignment uses Phaneur. Use it will allow, fix small defects and significant deviations horizontally.

Such stages of plywood adjustment are provided:

  • marking on the walls (Laser level is used)
  • samores are made "lighthouses"
  • with the help of glue, lagows are mounted (plywood is suitable or timber)
  • plywood sheets are put (plywood is poured into 4 parts)
  • during the final laying of plywood, fixes to lags with self-headed screws

After completion of work, it should be carefully inspecting the attached Phaneur. Any damage and stratification of the material will result in problems during laying of laminate or any other coating.

Here you should consider the following nuances:

  • In order for the chipboard "accustomed" to the humidity of the room in which it will be, bring sheets into the room for several days
  • Under plywood sheets You can hide cables and communications
  • Faneur can be used as finish coat or as a basis for laying laminate, linoleum or carpet
  • If you installed lags, the level can be enhanced up to 10 cm

How else can you align

To align the boards, you can install Paneur directly to the floor. Support in this case will be "waves" of boards and the highest points of drops.

Proper plywood alignment:

  • Ideal if the width of the boards is 10-12 cm. Then you need a plywood board of about 10 mm
  • Otherwise, you need to purchase a faeer with a thickness of more than 10 mm

If the room has high humidity, the usual plywood will not fit. To align the boards, you should choose moisture-resistant material.

Plywood sheets are attached directly to the floor with self-draws. Shakes treat acrylic sealant.

Adjustment with glue and sawdust

The most commonly used method of alignment before laying the laminate is the use of wood sawdust and glue (putty method). The source components inexpensive, and the spacure itself after frozen becomes durable, resistant to external influence. The mixture is prepared from sawdust and glue.

Stages of alignment:

  • installation of rail levels
  • pouring sawdust spaces between the rails (each layer is poured only after the complete drying of the previous one)
  • verification of the surface using the level
  • laying laminate after complete drying

Most often this mixture dries over two days. It is worth noting that for some coatings, putty from sawdust and adhesive is not sufficiently reliable, so it is better to lay a fane or other suitable material.

Self-leveling mixture - a universal means to adjust the floor

In situations where defects need to be corrected not to cover it with varnish, but to lay another flooringThe self-leveling mixture is one of the most convenient and practical ways. After processing, the floor will acquire a perfectly smooth surface, and all flaws and cracks are eliminated.

Despite its name, the alignment of the sexual coating of the self-leveling mixture is a very complex process. Also, this method is one of expensive.

The solutions of this class consist of polymeric materialsWhat contributes to almost instant alignment and smoothing a new coating.

Perge than to proceed with the leveling process, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface. Pour should be carefully and quickly.

The main phases of floor adjustments in this way:

  • moving boards are fixed, nail hats are driven
  • surface is cleaned
  • ground
  • walls are prepared, the level is determined.
  • a special reinforced grid is lifted (a construction grid is used for consolidation) - this will allow you to extend the service life of the coating
  • the solution is poured onto the reinforced floor and is treated with a studded rubber roller.
  • lines smooth special brush
  • the surface is dried

Using this method, it is worth remembering that the floor level will increase. This factor should be taken into account, in particular, if the laminate will be subsequently stacked on it.

Wooden floor leveling cement screed

Experienced specialists adhere to the opinion that if the wooden floor is quite strong or initially laid for subsequent alignment, you can apply cement screed Floor.

This method will make a rough surface with large differentials almost perfectly smooth.

In order to align the old wooden floor with cement, it is necessary:

  • the surface of the wooden floor is covered with waterproofing composition
  • after drying the layer, the polyethylene film or rubberoid is fill. Will correctly do it with the allen
  • the level is measured by a new surface
  • lighthouses are laid out
  • next prepare cement mixture

Alignment in this case will not be difficult: cement mortar It is superimposed on the lighthouses, then the alignment towards the door with metal slats is carried out.

The subsequent layer of the self-leveling mixture will be applied easily.

However, there is a risk of breaking the boards of the base of severe cement mixture. In this case, you will have to remove the coating and pour the floor again. Use further layers of foam or clay.

Providing ventilation

Regardless of the alignment method, it is necessary to provide ventilation of the floor boards in advance. This will allow you to prevent the appearance on the surface of mold, fungus and various kinds of pests.

Previously, for these purposes, a hole was drilled on the surface, which was strengthened with a decorative lattice.

As an option - ventilation to the wall and install a decorative grid there.

If, when aligned, you noticed something like this - do not hurry to lure it or close it.

Floor alignment, without breaking the boards: how to choose a profitable way

Before starting to align the floor, it is necessary to determine which of the proposed options will be relevant and beneficial for you. This is determined based on the following criteria:

  • Ability to align
  • Need to align wooden coating
  • Relatively low cost of good quality material
  • Laboriousness of repair work

Wooden floor alignment will make the cabbage reliable, durable and high-quality. After processing the tree, any of these methods floor will not fade, and the surface will be smooth and without cracks.

Useful before performing all manipulations to watch videos describing all stages and alignment nuances wooden floors without breaking the board.

You can, of course, do all the work. If you weighed everything "for" and "against", then you can come to the conclusion that the specialist will make it and faster and better. In this case, YouDo service will come to your aid, offering services for professionals with extensive experience.

Order services from specialists

Alignment of wooden floors is estimated on the basis of several criteria:

  • Do you need disassembly of boards
  • The use of floor insulation
  • The presence of another waterproofing layer
  • The cost of material for alignment

Before proceeding with the manufacture of wood products, it is necessary to prepare the original material and, in particular, to eliminate the curvature of the boards, aligning at least one edge.
If the deflection of the board does not exceed 15 mm, then you can align the edge using a plane or woodworking machine, but if you have a blank with a big curvature, apply one of the proposed receptions.

1. A long board, the deflection of which is more than 15 mm, should be cut into 2-3 short. This will reduce the deflection of each workpiece and apply the ruble. The figure shows how from a long boards with a deflection of 20 mm, you can get three blanks with a deflection of 7 mm.

2. If for some reason it is impossible to cut the board into several parts, try to apply this method.
Adjust the woodworking machine to the depth of 1,5 mm cut, then place the workpiece with a concave edge to the machine table and make several passes from one end of the board. Each passage is the length of the processed part of the board will increase. As the cut will approach the middle of the board, turn it with another end and repeat this procedure. Both cuts should "meet" in the middle of the board. After such an operation, curvature (deflection) edge will be less than 3 mm. Now for two full passages completely align the edge.
Start processing from the end of the board, where the fibers of the wood are directed obliquely down to the cutter. Make the last pass along the entire length of the board by reducing the value of the removal to 1 mm. To eliminate chips and debiots, the feed must be small.


The direction of the fibers of the board in relation to the direction of rotation of the cutter



Remove the material of 1.5 mm, until the curvature of the board decreases to 3 mm or less


3. If the board is too long for processing (planing) on \u200b\u200bthe machine, or the curvature of the short board is very large, follow as follows. Using a smooth rack or cord for a blank, take the line, as shown in the figure and scream off the concave part of the line board circular saw. Finally align the edge with the plans for one pass.


Billing line with cord


It should be remembered that the wood of some tree breeds is easily cleaned or down. This often happens when working, for example, with a maple boards with characteristic curls of the "bird eye" fibers, especially if the knives are not sharpened enough. In this case, reduce the flow to the minimum (2.5-5 cm / s) and remove the chips of 1 mm and less.
If you eliminate a small curvature of the board and it is difficult to determine the value of the material, you can apply the following method. Draw on the edge a wavy line, then make one pass. The remaining on the edge of the line will prompt you about the need for further processing.

Wood, like every natural material, is characterized by many shortcomings, worsening technical properties Woods or restricting the possibilities of its practical use. One of these vices is the deformation - the victim arising during sawing, drying or storage. As with the help of woodworking machines, the blister from the United States of the city of Rogovsky tells to correct the swapping boards.

Defects of boards. When the tree dries and agitates, it is subject to various deformations: 1 - longitudinal warning - curvature in the length in the plane perpendicular; 2 - transverse warning manifests itself in the form cross bend In the width of the front side of the board (with a marked transverse warning, disappel the board to narrow slats; if the defect is eliminated with foggy and planing, it will be very thin board); 3 - Wardness: If the board is slightly twisted, it can be knocked out with adjacent boards or panels, if the twisting is strong - to use the board will have to cut into short sections; 4 - longitudinal on the edge curvature in length in the plane parallel to the plane; With this defect, irrationally cut the board with straight and parallel edges, as it goes a large number of Woods.

Cracking. Can meet anywhere board, but more often happens at the ends of the boards (top photo). This is the result too fast drying. Cracks can be found everywhere, although their appearance is more likely at the ends of the boards. They may come across in the middle of the board (photo in the middle). Internal cracks can be detected during transverse sawing.

I do with boards as follows. First I define what boards can be used for certain items or parts for them. Then we saw them along the length with a 25 mm allowance and on ribbon saw Fragment of 3 mm in width. Milling and planing billets with a mix of 3 mm in thickness. At this stage, I define serious defects and I do not try to get perfectly straight edges. Processing the workpiece, I post off the boards to the side for a few days, in order to show internal stresses. After excerpts, I finally process the boards - I will give them rectangular shape and squeeze into size.

As a rule, the detected defects are the result of what they did with the boards to the sale. When wood dries (even in ideal conditions), it deforms

It should also be borne in mind that most untreated boards have cracks at the ends. They arise due to the fact that when the moisture is drying faster, it turns out through the end of the board than from the plaque. Therefore, before drying the ends of fresh boards, I paint, and when buying, I choose the boards somewhat longer than the desired size.

Boards can crack in the middle. Typically, the cracks are narrow (up to 3 mm). In the boards, which dried very quickly, significant internal stresses can develop, leading to the formation of the grid of the so-called "cracks of the Usush

ki "or one large crack passing along the entire length of the board. "Cracks of sleeping can be found only carefully examined the front side of the board.

Little section with cracks can be cut down and put on firewood. But some craftsmen fill the cracks with epoxy glue or clogged with wedges and let the board in the case.

Longitudinally vigorous board

To determine whether there is a longitudinal warker, "shooting" the eye along the edge. It is better to use for short parts to the product with transverse swinging. With the "shooting", I celebrate even sections with a pencil. Then we saw the board across the short sections and, in order to get a horizontal surface, pull them, installing on the table planing machine convex side up. For fightening the front side I set a small planing depth (about 0.8 mm). First, the machine will take the wood at the ends. I do not allow too much to the board too much, otherwise in some places it is possible to exacerbate it and as a result it will be simple, not flat and not exactly.

Longitudinal misfortune by reservoir. If short boards are needed, the longitudinal warp is not very scary. From a long board you can always cut down short sections and shoot them. But for products with a large length need long boards. In this case, I choose a fairly thick workpiece so that when you get a piece of need for the desired thickness.

To do this, put the board with a concave side down on the planing machine across the table cutting head And sticking it. I pressed the board evenly and I do not give her freeze. I exhibit a gold depth of about 0.6 mm (even for

fucking blanks). For greater depth Planing - more vibration that reduces accuracy and purity of processing.

When high-seat rigor, I install the board with the hump on the planing table and pressed on a hanging end. This is a little raising the end of the board passing over the cutting head. I give the board ahead so that the knives began to strict hump. Then we carry the weight on the processed part of the board so that it does not appeal from the head and for several passages by gripping the hump. Ultimately, we shook the entire front surface of the board.

If the board came across a tuning fiber (often happens about bitch),

to reduce the likelihood of valves, a slightly moisturizing the fibers with a wet rag and remove less than 0.8 mm for the passage.

Cross-winged board

The magnitude of the transverse deflection can be determined by putting across the board a ruler.

Transverse deformation - width curvature. The cause of transverse warmers is, as a rule, a different moisture in the facial surfaces of the board (the dry side is compressed, more wet expands.) I define this defect, putting the surface of the plank surface across the surface.

To eliminate such a defect, put the board with a concave side on a planing machine and, by setting a small depth of cutting, weching it for several passages. Planing depth I install the board in accordance with the brave.

To eliminate the transverse swing, put the board with a convex side up on a planing machine. First, the machine will remove the wood along the edges of the plastic.

If the transverse warping is large, it may turn too thin board.

Twisted board

Wardness - spiral curvature in length. Twisting -. The worst thing that can meet. I define it using calibrations, putting the board on the workbench cover. I lay the board face down and click on adjacent angles. If the board is walking - it is spirally twisted.

If the boards except the cavity there are other defects, I first eliminate twisting. I put the board on the planing table and click on the bottom angle. At the beginning of planing, larger force I apply to the front of the board, then, as the cutting head passing,, respectively, I change the point of the application of the load in the direction of the back of the board. The board is shifting diagonally from one high angle to another. I repeat the passages until the board becomes the same in thickness.

Parquetting The board must first be fixed. Knowing the property of wood is bending under the influence of humidity, it is necessary to use it in combination with mechanical influence. If the board was not impregnated with some moisture absorbing substances and perceives moisture, the situation is easier. If the wood does not "tend to drink", then some layer of it, inhibiting moisture absorption, will have to be removed by scope and even with compatible, depending on how significant the obstacle is.

23. Alignment of a victim painting with blades

24. Decorative clamp

When this is done (of course, these actions are permissible only after strengthening the colorful layer, if it is in bad safety), the picture is placed on the smooth durable table The face down, laying under it any cloth for protection of the invoice. Washing with warm water, wipe the board is quite abundant, so that after absorbing the water of the board, the surface remained wet. After that, they impose even bars and they put the goods (iron, girks, pieces of marble, etc.). The cargo should not be too heavy, since otherwise it can exist a rapid effect and damage the case. I always remember that "arcs bent with patience and not suddenly", hurry should not be hurry. As the cargo uses, humidification should be repeated.

You can also apply such a reception: to cover the moisturized area, to put the same goods and as we give moisture to the wood, resume wetting. The advantage of this technique is that the matter gradually and constantly moisturizes the tree, but it is not so convenient to observe the state of the board.

To straighten the board, it is sometimes used by a manner system with blades at various points of the board. Over the lying pattern, at some distance from it, two or three are placed wooden BruckAttached to the table. A wooden or cork linings and clinics of the desired size are placed between the painting board and the clusters, which from time to time be slightly "bought" with a hammer. Blines need to be installed in different parts Boards, as tightly adjacent to the table (so that they cannot rise and promote the cracking of the board) and raised, those that should be straightened. Schematically, it will look like shown in fig. 23.

A more mechanized device for the correction of the borne-free boards is called "lattice clamp" (Fig. 24).

It resembles an ordinary wooden harrow, which, instead of teeth in the bars, there are wooden screws, like ordinary for our clamps. The whole design is placed above the table and firmly reinforced on it, forming a common machine. In this machine, this machine is very convenient, as it allows you to press in various places on the board-legged under the grille. At the same time, the pressure is carried out very smoothly (the hand feels the screw) and at the same time the pressure of the pressure can be adjustable. In addition to straightening victims, this machine is an excellent press when duplicating the board in a number of other restoration work. The picture attached under the grill as it is fixed everything is more and more pressed against the barrel, until finally, does not "melt" on it.

Wood is very popular when finishing the premises, as it has a very useful properties. This material perfectly retains heat, does not distinguish any harmful substances and is environmentally friendly natural Material.

Now you can bring lumber with an empty directly to the construction site. But it is necessary to take into account the fact that such boards can and sue, since they are perfectly passing moisture. And when the board dries, it is deformed in any case. Unfortunately, such cases occur everywhere, so you need to know what should be done in this situation.

Parquethelifing machine;

Electrolake;

Plane.

Instruction.

Note.

kakpostroit.su.

How to straighten the curves of the boards and whether they are not deformed again

Very often in construction and repair, we have to deal with the need to use different boards. Wood gives beauty and practicality both internal and exterior decoration. However, not all of them in the process of use are perfectly even, and the guarantees of manufacturers are not always justified. What to do and how to be in such cases? Perhaps whether to eliminate defects permanently, and how to achieve it? This is about this today in our article.

Ways to deal with curvature

So, if you are a specialist in this field of knowledge and are not accustomed to surrender not before what circumstances, then do not dare and in this case. Here you will help a simple planer, with which you can decline the dry board, fixed in a fixed state. Pay attention to the length of the sole of such a tool, since the short ruler will not be able to eliminate such a defect. Thus, you will get an absolutely smooth cutting board without much effort. If there are few boards, then manual option The Rubanka will help to cope with such a task.

If you have a mountain of materials in front of you, then the electrolyak, as it is more complicated here. Here you need an excerpt and patience, and without special skills of a carpenter you will quite hurt.

Fix this board and slowly remove the peashed part of it. Due to the broad-based runt, you can feel the exit to the flat plane. It should be remembered that such a process will affect the reduction of the thickness of the boards. Absolutely smooth material It is unlikely to be able to do, so, laying boards to the floor when installing it, try to do it close by fixing with self-draws. After that, grinding will fasten the result. Here, the car will come to the rescue, which is not necessary to buy, and you can rent, which will help save on costs.

The second option to correct the irregularities of the surface of the board is to follow the simple laws of physics - the action of weight. Fold the boards in the stabel, shifting them with special gaskets to prevent them in contact with each other. Put heavy things from above, say, barrels with water. All this should be placed in a barn, where the fortochka will be opened and is included. heat gun. This method will help you to save the thickness of the boards, but the effect of such a procedure is not always justified.

Causes of curvature

It should be noted that the result of any method of combating curvatures depends on the cause of such a violation. If the floor has been imprisoned incorrectly, or the curvature has become the result of plating boards, then simple alignment will not bring a durable result. You will need to be other than this, disassemble the cavity under the boards, dry it and establish a ventilation system, only then the alignment of the boards will make sense.

Thus, from the current situation there are several outlets and their result will be positive if you are comprehensively suitable for solving the issue. Good luck!

www.stroyservice.ru.

How to straighten the board - an easy business

1. Definition of a fucked board.

24. Decorative clamp

Restoration technique paintings. E.V. Kudryavtsev, M. 2002

Picture

Ammonia - gas, easily soluble in water; The solution has an alkaline reaction. Responding to sulfuric acid located in an atmosphere, ammonia turns into ammonium sulfate. Ammonium sulfate is hygroscopic and therefore plays a major role in the "formation" of varnish in paintings, as well as in the destruction of cardboard.

By the way *

Architecture

In Egypt (Cairo), due to the high concentration of exhaust gases in the atmosphere, the Giant Statue of Ramses II was injured. Over the past 32 years, which the statue stood on the station Square, it was damaged more than in the past three thousand years, therefore it was decided to transfer it to the indoor pavilion. This is one of indicative examples The effects of pollutants on monuments of history and culture.

By the way *

Furniture

Separate restorers, under the influence of commercial interests, can redo, modify old furniture, to do it, maybe more attractive, more "stylist". They are thus become falsifiers. As is well known from the history of artistic furniture of the XVIII - XIX centuries, this approach existed in the second half of the XIX century. And now this path is not excluded - the influence of the customer is too great. This is evidenced by numerous fakes in antique stores. From there they fall into houses of inexperienced collectors.

http://art-con.ru.

legkoe-Delo.ru.

1. Definition of a fucked board. | ArtConservation

Parquetting The board must first be fixed. Knowing the property of wood is bending under the influence of humidity, it is necessary to use it in combination with mechanical influence. If the board was not impregnated with some moisture absorbing substances and perceives moisture, the situation is easier. If the wood does not "tend to drink", then some layer of it, inhibiting moisture absorption, will have to be removed by scope and even with compatible, depending on how significant the obstacle is.

23. Alignment of a victim painting with blades 24. Decorative clamp

When this is done (of course, these actions are allowed only after strengthening the colorful layer, if it is in bad safety), the picture is placed on the smooth durable side of the face down, putting some fabric to protect it. Washing with warm water, wipe the board is quite abundant, so that after absorbing the water of the board, the surface remained wet. After that, they impose even bars and they put the goods (iron, girks, pieces of marble, etc.). The cargo should not be too heavy, since otherwise it can exist a rapid effect and damage the case. I always remember that "arcs bent with patience and not suddenly", hurry should not be hurry. As the cargo uses, humidification should be repeated.

You can also apply such a reception: to cover the moisturized area, to put the same goods and as we give moisture to the wood, resume wetting. The advantage of this technique is that the matter gradually and constantly moisturizes the tree, but it is not so convenient to observe the state of the board.

To straighten the board, it is sometimes used by a manner system with blades at various points of the board. Over the lying pattern, at some distance from it, placed two or three wooden bar attached to the table. A wooden or cork linings and clinics of the desired size are placed between the painting board and the clusters, which from time to time be slightly "bought" with a hammer. The blades need to be installed in various parts of the board, both tightly adjacent to the table (so that they cannot rise and promote the cracking of the board) and raised, those that must be straightened. Schematically, it will look like shown in fig. 23.

A more mechanized device for the correction of the borne-free boards is called "lattice clamp" (Fig. 24).

It resembles an ordinary wooden harrow, which, instead of teeth in the bars, there are wooden screws, like ordinary for our clamps. The whole design is placed above the table and firmly reinforced on it, forming a common machine. In this machine, this machine is very convenient, as it allows you to press in various places on the board-legged under the grille. At the same time, the pressure is carried out very smoothly (the hand feels the screw) and at the same time the pressure of the pressure can be adjustable. In addition to straightening victims, this machine is an excellent press when duplicating the board in a number of other restoration work. The picture attached under the grill as it is fixed everything is more and more pressed against the barrel, until finally, does not "melt" on it.

The leveling of victims is a rather complicated operation, and therefore the most important gradualness in it. There should be no time to regret it - the main thing is a good result, and it can be achieved no earlier than in a few days (8-10 or more). Upon reference to rejection, the board under the same presses should dry and stabilize in a new state.

First source:

Restoration technique paintings. E.V. Kudryavtsev, M., 2002

aRT-CON.RU.

How to straighten wood

3 Methods: Using Iron Solar Safety Tour: Pressure

The tree can be deformed under the influence of moisture and heat. Additional effects of heat and moisture from the opposite side of the sheet can help align the surface. Small "waves" on the tree can be corrected by applying only moisture and heat, to correct complex deformations may require additional pressure.

Steps

Method 1 of 3: Using Iron

  1. 1 Wrap the wood with a wet towel. Water one or two large towels and wrap in them a wooden subject, making sure that the entire deformed site was covered. http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/f/fd/unwarp-wood-step-1-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-1-preview.jpg http: //pad1.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / F / FD / Unwarp-Wood-Step-1-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-Wood-Step-1-Preview.jpg
  2. Best of all, if the towels you are using will be large enough to cover the entire piece of wood. Choose towels or cloths that withstand high iron temperature.
  3. Moisturizing towels, wet them and squeeze them excess water. Towels must be wet, but not wet.
  4. 2 Put wrapped in the cloth a tree on the ironing board. Put wrapped in the cloth a tree on a ironing board or other smooth solid surface. The "bloating" of wood should be on the upper side of the tree. http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/8/85/unwarp-wood-step-2-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-2-preview.jpg http: //pad3.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 85 / Unwarp-Wood-Step-2-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-2-preview.jpg
  5. A concave part of the wood sheet should be directed down.
  6. The surface on which the wood leaf is located should be rigid. It must withstand the high temperature of the iron.
  7. 3 Heat the iron to the maximum possible temperature. Turn on the iron with the steamer and set the maximum temperature in the settings. http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/7/7d/unwarp-wood-step-3-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-3-preview.jpg http: //pad2.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 7D / Unwarp-Wood-Step-3-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-3-preview.jpg
  8. Give the iron to warm 2-5 minutes.
  9. Note, it will take iron with a sweeping function. It is not recommended to operate the iron without a swapar.
  10. 4 Press the iron to the deformed surface. Press iron on one side of a wrapped sheet of wood. Enclose the entire surface using pressure in deformed places. http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/4/44/unwarp-wood-step-4-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-4-preview.jpg http: //pad3.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 44/44/4-preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-4-preview.jpg
  11. Hold the iron on each site for 5-10 seconds before going to the next point.
  12. Choosing a new site, capture and part just that is stroked to make sure that the entire surface will be processed.
  13. Do not leave the iron unattended. Iron left without supervision can burn a towel and a wooden surface under it.
  14. 5 Repeat if necessary. Check the condition of the wooden surface. If the problem is eliminated, this can be completed. If not all deformations are corrected, repeat the procedure to correct all the "sweaty" areas. http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/2/22/unwarp-wood-step-5-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-5-preview.jpg http: //pad3.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 2/22 / Unwarp-Wood-Step-5-preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-5-preview.jpg
  15. When wooden surface Aligned, turn off the iron and expand the wood sheet. Give the wooden subject to dry completely before use.
  16. This technique may not work on highly deformed areas. If you have not noticed any improvements after 2-3 attempts, try another method.

Method 2 of 3: Sunlight

  1. 1 Wrap the tree into the moistened towels. Wash the water with a few large towels and fully wrap in them. http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/6/69/unwarp-wood-step-6-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-6-preview.jpg http: //pad1.whstatic .com / Unwarp-Wood-Step-6-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-6-preview.jpg
  2. You can use towels, sheets, rags. The material you use should hold moisture, and the cut should be large enough to cover the entire deformed surface of the tree.
  3. Hold the towels under water until they are soaked, then squeeze excess liquid As carefully as possible. The fabric should be wet when you wrap a tree into it, but not wet.
  4. 2 Put a piece of wood in a lit place, under the straight sun rays. Position the piece of wood in a warm place, which during the day a large amount of sun falls - a concave side down, convex to the top. http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/a/a2/unwarp-wood-step-7-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-7-preview.jpg http: //pad3.whstatic .com / A / UNWARP-Wood-Step-7-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-7-preview.jpg
  5. Under the wood it is worth putting plastic or tarpaulin so that the water does not spread around.
  6. This method works best in warm and dry weather. It may not work if it's cold on the street, cloudy and damp.
  7. For a better result, place a wooden item on a rigid surface (for example, on the access road to the house or deck). You can place it on the lawn in front of the house, but the method can be less effective if the wood is located on a soft surface.
  8. 3 If necessary, sprinkle wood with water. Depending on the degree of deformation, it will be necessary to hold the wood in the sun from 2 to 4 days. Sprinkle towels as needed that the fabric remains wet. http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/f/f3/unwarp-wood-step-8-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-8-preview.jpg http: //pad2.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / F / F3 / Unwarp-Wood-Step-8-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-8-preview.jpg
  9. As before, the material should only be wet, but not wet.
  10. Sunlight heats down the covered tree and makes the moisture with a towel. When the moisture is absorbed into the surface, wood should be aligned to the original state.
  11. 4 Dry the tree until the deformations disappear. The whole process can take several days (depending on the degree of damage). Regularly check the state of the wood. As soon as the deformations disappear, remove the cloth into which the tree is wrapped, and let the wood dry. http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/3/36/unwarp-wood-step-9-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-9-preview.jpg http: //pad3.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 33 36 / Unwarp-Wood-Step-9-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-9-preview.jpg
  12. At night, when the sun disappears, you need to make a tree into the house. Keep it in a warm place, concave the surface down.
  13. If you have not noticed improvements after a few days, try another way.

Method 3 of 3: Method Three: Pressure

  1. 1 Cover the tree with raw paper towels. Moisten a few sheets of paper towels and put them on a concave wood. http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/2/2F/unwarp-wood-step-10-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-10-preview.jpg http: //pad2.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 2 / 2F / Unwarp-Wood-Step-10-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-10-preview.jpg
  2. Paper towels are ideally suited for this method, but you can use a thin bath towel or ordinary paper. The material you use should be wet and large enough in size to cover the entire deformed area.
  3. Water paper towels under water, then squeeze carefully. The material must be wet when you apply it to the tree, but not wet.
  4. Apply wet paper towels only to the concave side of the tree. Moisturizing from this side will help to direct the deformation so that the wooden surface is returned to its original state. The concave side will absorb more moisture, while the convex will be filled.
  5. 2 Wrap Paper towels with plastic film. Wrap the tree along with paper towels in several layers of plastic film. This layer should be dense and sealed. http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/B/BE/UNWARP-WOOD-Step-11-Preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-11-preview.jpg http: //pad3.whstatic .com / Unwarp-Wood-Step-11-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-Wood-Step-11-Preview.jpg
  6. Polyethylene must prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture, as a result, paper towels and wood will remain wet longer.
  7. Make sure the polyethylene film covers all sides of the tree, and not just that part that are covered with paper towels.
  8. 3 Place the wood in vice. Place the wooden subject in vice, gradually tighten them until the deformed area does not start align. http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/d/d1/unwarp-wood-step-12-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-12-preview.jpg http: //pad2.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / D1 / Unwarp-Wood-Step-12-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-12-preview.jpg
  9. Work carefully, clamping vice. If you wake them too much, the tree can be broken instead of straightening.
  10. 4 Leave for a week. Leave the tree covered and squeezed into vice in a warm place for the week. http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/b/bc/unwarp-wood-step-13-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-13-preview.jpg http: //pad1.whstatic .com / B / BC / Unwarp-Wood-Step-13-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-13-preview.jpg
  11. Regularly check the wood and remove the subject from the vice if notice the signs of possible damage.
  12. In the first week you need to store a tree in the highest possible place. The perfect temperature is above 149 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Celsius), but if this temperature cannot be achieved, the most warm room in the House.
  13. You can enhance the heating of the tree, placing it under the right sunny rays, under the heating lamp, electric blanket or on the heating surface. Preheat the tree at least 6-8 hours a day.
  14. 5 Remove wrappers. After a week, remove the tree from the vice, remove the polyethylene film and paper towels. http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/4/4d/unwarp-wood-step-14-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-14-preview.jpg http: //pad1.whstatic .com / Unwarp-Wood-Step-14-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-14-preview.jpg
  15. At this stage you need to allow the wood to completely dry.
  16. Check out the state of deformed areas. If the deformation disappeared, the object from the tree can be used as soon as it dries, and no additional pressure is applied.
  17. 6 Additional push. If the deformation is still preserved, return the tree into the vice and give it to die in this position of 2-3 weeks. http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/7/70/unwarp-wood-step-15-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-15-preview.jpg http: //pad1.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 7/70 / Unwarp-Wood-Step-15-preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-15-preview.jpg
  18. At this stage, the temperature should be slightly lower. The ideal temperature for this stage is 77 degrees Fahrenheit (25 degrees Celsius).
  19. At this stage, the air in the room should be dry. Do not keep a tree in the raw room.
  20. 7 Periodically evaluate progress. As soon as the tree is completely dry, the item can be removed from the vice and use to be appointed. http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/1/10/unwarp-wood-step-16-preview.jpg/550px-unwarp-wood-step-16-preview.jpg http: //pad1.whstatic .com / Image / Thumb / 1/10 / Unwarp-Wood-Step-16-Preview.jpg / 300px-unwarp-wood-step-16-preview.jpg
  21. If the tree was not leveled after all steps, damage is too serious and irreversible.

You will need

Using an iron

Using sunlight

  • Wet towels
  • Bottle with sprayer
  • Plastic pallet

Using pressure

ves-mir.3dn.ru.

How to straighten the board


Wood is very popular when finishing the premises, as it has a number of very useful properties. This material perfectly retains heat, does not distinguish any harmful substances and is an environmentally friendly natural material. Now you can bring lumber with an empty directly to the construction site. But it is necessary to take into account the fact that such boards can and sue, since they are perfectly passing moisture. And when the board dries, it is deformed in any case. Unfortunately, such cases occur everywhere, so you need to know what should be done in this situation.

To straighten the board, you will need:

Parquethelifing machine;

Electrolake;

Plane.

Instruction.

1. If the boards are in small quantities, then it is worth planing them with the help of a handbank. It is necessary to fix the board to be fixed, and then carefully remove all irregularities from the surface. It is worth considering the following: if the sole of the tool has a short, then avoid wavy irregularities of the board will practically fail. Therefore, it is better to acquire a planer with a long sole.

2. If there are a lot of lumber, then it is necessary to apply the electrolyak - this is the easiest way to straighten the board, adjust it under right size And give her a smooth look. Electrolake, unlike manual analog, does not require any special skills. He has a wide platform and a comfortable design - it helps to avoid the appearance of wave-like irregularities. It is necessary to firmly fix the board, remove all irregularities. After that, the broad base of the electrolaws itself will switch to the desired plane. And do not forget that after alignment, the thickness of the boards decreases.

3. No matter how carefully you have tried to align the boards, it will not be possible to avoid further processing. The code will lay an uneven sawn timber on the floor, it is necessary to pull all the boards close to each other and fasten with the help of self-tapping screws to lags. After laying the floor, as a rule, it will be similar to the "Christmas tree", as areas that did not get under the lags and were not bonded by self-drawing, they will bent. To correct this disadvantage, it is necessary to inch a floor surface. It is necessary to do this with the help of a squash parcohlolylifing machine, which can be either bought, or to rent. If you yourself do not cope, it is better to invite a specialist.

Note.

You should not expect high results if the originally boards were curves or behaviors. Laying the wooden floor implies it overmined in a year. After this time, the board should be adapted to environment And they will acquire their permanent form. After that, it is necessary to go throughout the semi with a cleaning machine again.

kvartirakrasivo.ru.

How to straighten the board | Production of seals and profiles

31.10.2013

Wood is very popular when finishing the rooms, since it has a multitude of useful properties. This material perfectly retains heat, does not allocate any harmful substances at all and is environmentally friendly natural material. But it is necessary to take into account the fact that such boards can and seriously lend, because they are well let moisture. And when the board will dry completely, it is definitely deformed. We will also tell me where double beds are sold by low prices.

Instruction

1. If the boards are in small quantities, then you need to strict them hand-held Rubankom. It is necessary to fix the board fixing, and then carefully remove absolutely all irregularities from the surface.

2. If the lumber is a large amount, then it is necessary to use electrovelocks - this is the easiest way to straighten the board, fully fit it under some size And at the same time give her a smooth look. Electrolake, unlike a simple analog, does not require any special skills at all. He has a rather wide platform and a completely comfortable design - it fully helps to avoid the appearance of all wave-like irregularities. It is worth firmly fasten the board, remove absolutely all irregularities. After that, the entire wide basis of the electrolabanka itself will be able to switch to the desired plane. And do not forget that after alignment, the thickness of the boards is completely reduced.

3. No matter how carefully you have not tried to align all the boards, you still will not be able to avoid all further processing. The code will fully lay an uneven sawn timber on the floor, it is worth pulling all the boards close one to one and fasten with self-drawing to lags. After flooring, the floor, often, will be similar to the "Christmas tree", because the plots that did not fall under the lags at all and were not fixed with the self-drawing, will be completely encountered. To completely correct this drawback, it is necessary to completely polish the floor surface. It is necessary to do this by a squash parcohlolyphic machine that you can or purchase, or take a rental.