Correct wood floor pie over logs. The device of a pie of a wooden floor on logs, beams - removing a squeak. Floor cake on a concrete base

Of all the possible options for arranging flooring, it is the simplest and most practical. As a rule, such floors are widespread in the construction of private houses and baths, especially wooden, from a log house, or a bar.

This article describes the technology for arranging an insulated log floor. You will learn all the stages of doing the work with your own hands, insulators that are optimal for thermal insulation of a log floor in a private house will also be considered.

1 Why is it necessary to insulate a lagged floor?

In general, among the advantages that determine the rationality of arranging a lagged floor, one can single out the possibility of doing all the work with your own hands, without the need to contact construction companies or rent expensive equipment.

Also, an important factor is the speed of arrangement and the simplicity of the technology by which a wooden floor is built with.

Such a design is not deprived of its drawbacks - a lagged wooden floor has an order of magnitude less bearing capacity than a concrete screed. Also, due to the peculiarities of the tree, it is not recommended to equip the lagged floor in rooms with high air humidity.

Such a floor, in comparison with a concrete screed, dampens impact noise worse, but this issue is solved by high-quality heaters, which in most cases have good sound insulation properties.

Any floor, including a lagged one, is the coldest inner surface in a private house, which, in addition to discomfort, especially in the winter season, can negatively affect health, since a person's feet react very painfully to constant walking on a cold surface.

1.1 Features of insulation

When performing thermal insulation of the floor with materials and, the thermal conductivity of which ranges from 0.3 to 0.4 W / mk, you will need to lay a layer of insulation 150 mm thick if the flooring is located above a cold basement, or 100 mm if the floor is on concrete screed.

The slab insulation is laid between the logs in two layers so that the middle of the upper slab falls at the joints of the lower layer - this technology guarantees the absence of cold bridges (zones with higher thermal conductivity than the main part of the structure), which the joints of the insulation can become.

Also, when insulating a wooden log floor in a private house, a vapor barrier is mandatory. For this, special vapor barrier membranes (films) are used, which are laid on top of the insulation, and protect the material from condensation.

Condensation is the main enemy of any thermal insulation, since when moisture is absorbed, the insulation is prone to loss of its thermal insulation characteristics, weight gain and decay.

Lay a vapor barrier membrane and may also be needed under the insulation. This is necessary in cases where a wooden lagged floor is installed immediately on the surface of the ground, or in a private house, on top of a concrete floor slab located above a damp basement.

To improve the sound insulation properties of the insulation, you can use special acoustic spacers that fit under the logs and contribute to more effective noise reduction. This is a good option if there is some kind of production equipment located under your floor or in the basement of your house.

2 Types of heaters for a lagged floor

Considering all the requirements that thermal insulation must meet, it is better to carry out the insulation of a lagged floor with the following materials:

Expanded clay;
Mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex).

2.1 Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a loose insulation, as a result of which the technology of thermal insulation with expanded clay is fundamentally different from the technology inherent in other heaters.

Thermal insulation of a wooden log floor in a private house with expanded clay, which is made by swelling clay rock, is quite simple - you need to equip the supporting frame, and simply sprinkle the insulation between the logs themselves.

When insulating with expanded clay, the presence of a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer is mandatory, since the porous structure of this material contributes to the fact that the insulation freely absorbs any moisture.

To insulate a wooden floor, it is necessary to use expanded clay with different sizes of fractions. In this case, small pebbles of expanded clay will fill the joints between large elements, while with homogeneous fractions, there will be many air channels in the thermal insulation.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is 0.19 W / mk, which makes expanded clay insulation quite effective, even with a minimum layer of thermal insulation.

2.2 Minvata

2.3 Styrofoam

Foam insulation is an excellent option for budget thermal insulation. At a low cost, this material has relatively good technical characteristics.

The thermal conductivity of the foam is 0.4 W / mk, this material is vapor-tight, and practically does not absorb moisture - when fully immersed in water for 24 hours, the material picks up liquids by no more than 1.5% of its volume.

When insulating a wooden floor with foam, it must be borne in mind that the effectiveness of this material is somewhat less than that of more expensive insulation, and you will need to use a thicker layer of insulation (which means that the cake will take up more space in the room).

For thermal insulation of the floor in a private wooden house, the best option is PBS S-30 foam (they are made).

2.4 Penoplex

Penoplex is an improved version of conventional foam. This material is rightfully considered one of the best insulation materials, since in terms of technical characteristics it surpasses most of the thermal insulation materials.

Penoplex thermal conductivity is 0.28 W / mk, moisture absorption in 24 hours - 02%. Also, the material is characterized by a high vapor-insulating ability, since the insulation consists of completely closed cells, through which neither steam nor moisture penetrates.

In addition to effective thermal insulation, foam insulation solves the issue of sound insulation - such a cake is able to muffle airborne noise within 41 dB.

In general, if your finances do not limit the choice of insulation, then it is better to insulate the wooden lagged floor in the house with either penoplex or mineral wool. Penoplex insulation will cost a little less, since such a cake does not require additional vapor barrier.

2.5 Technology of arrangement of insulated lag floor

The creation of an insulated lagged floor does not require special construction skills. If you have the necessary tools with your own hands, you can make such a cake for the floor in 1-2 days.

To insulate a lagged floor with mineral wool (insulation with penoplex requires the same), you will need the following materials:

Slab mineral wool with a density of about 20 kg / m³;
Vapor barrier membrane;
Waterproofing film;
Polyurethane foam, or liquid foam insulation;
Reinforcing aluminum tape;
Wooden bar (the thickness of the bar is determined based on the desired floor height and the thickness of the insulation used, optimally 15-20 centimeters);
Nails, screws.

Depending on the characteristics of the house, the technology for fixing the lags on the floor may differ. There are several ways to fix the frame:

In a wooden house, logs can be installed on load-bearing beams;
Spacers made of boards are installed between the lags (the simplest option)
In a brick house, where a screed is used as a subfloor, the logs are fixed with dowels, using a metal corner;
Also, logs are sometimes cut into the basement of the house, but this technology is very rarely used due to its laboriousness.

2.6 Stages of creating an insulated lag floor

A lagged frame is created. The pitch of the frame can vary between 50-100 cm. It is optimal if the pitch between the lags corresponds to the width of the heat-insulating material (mineral wool, as a rule, is produced in slabs with a width of 61 cm).
From below, on each side of the timber, slats are nailed - cranial bars, on which the subfloor covering is installed.
It is recommended to leave 5mm gaps between the subfloor boards, which will serve as ventilation.
A waterproofing film is rolled over the entire surface of the subfloor. It is most convenient to fix it with a construction stapler.
The joints of the film are glued with a reinforcing tape.
On top of the fixed waterproofing, insulation is tightly laid between the logs.
A vapor barrier membrane is fixed on top of the insulation.
The joints between the film and the walls are foamed with liquid penoizol, additionally protecting the cake.
The logs are sheathed with a front floor covering made of boards.

2.7 Features of warming a lagged floor with your own hands (video)

Having decided to build a wooden house, the owner begins to anticipate in advance the pride he will experience in showing the building to his acquaintances, unity with nature, comfort and tranquility that will fill the new home and the hearts of the household. However, the wooden box is not the whole house yet. It is necessary to pay the utmost attention to the installation and maintenance of floors and ceilings. The article will talk about the correct arrangement of wooden floors, as well as what constitutes the so-called floating floor pie.

Optimal floor in the house

Making the right floor in your house doesn't just mean pouring a layer of concrete and nailing boards to it, on which you can walk and not stumble often. A real floor is a complex structure consisting of several layers of different materials. This layer allows not only to level the surface, but also provide hydro-noise and thermal insulation, increase the strength of the entire structure and form a functional and durable coating. By analogy with a layered culinary product, such a device is called a pie. Thanks to the multi-layer construction, the floor cake can be applied in almost all floors: on the first, second floor of a house, in attics.

Reinforced waterproofing allows it to be used in bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity. However, before deciding to make a floor cake, you need to familiarize yourself with its structure and flooring in the house in general.

Varieties of floors for the home

Floors can be made from various materials:

Concrete with metal elements- have such advantages as simplicity of the device and economy. The disadvantages include increased requirements for the constant geometry of the house and increased load on the foundation;
Wooden ones are environmentally friendly, comfortable, functional, but quite expensive.

Depending on the construction and materials of manufacture of the house itself, appropriate floors should be selected.

Floor requirements

The main requirement for floors in a wooden private house is their material. They should also be wooden. Concrete floors under noble wood walls will look silly. In addition, the floors must be:

even - this applies to any floors, but with wooden floors it is not very easy to achieve this, since over time, wood boards can change their geometry;
warm - the house should be equally warm on all floors, which is ensured, among other things, by the construction of the floors;
durable - also depends on their design;
aesthetic - the color and structure must match the walls; wood itself is a beautiful material, and various shades can be given to it using various impregnations, varnishes or paints.

Basic floor elements

To meet all requirements, wood floors must be multi-layer construction. Such a device will provide strength, durability and thermal insulation. The main elements of the house floor pie are:

rough coating - the lowest layer;
waterproofing - the second layer that provides dryness and warmth in the room;
finishing coat - a top coat intended for laying the coating;
the floor covering is the visible part of the floor.

For your information! Such a device is called the floor cake. The main element for the device of all layers are wooden beams, which carry all the main load and serve as the basis for the installation of the entire structure.

Overlapping in the house can be divided into how many types:

basement - performs the function of a floor in the lower room of the first floor;
interfloor - located between rooms located on different floors, for example - the first and second;
attic - separating the upper (usually second) floor and the attic or attic from each other.

Sub-floor device

The main elements are:

Metal or wood beams- are laid in such a way that their ends are on the foundation. If the distance between the support points exceeds three meters, then additional support posts must be installed. Otherwise, the beam may bend. Support pillars are usually made of bricks. The recommended distance between the beams is 60 cm;
Skull Bars - Attached to the bottom of the beams;
Decking - chipboard slabs are usually used as subfloor decking. They fit on the cranial bars without additional attachment;
Insulation layers - consist of waterproofing and insulation. Mineral wool or fiberglass mats can be used as insulation. For waterproofing, you can use plastic wrap. Often, especially when making a cake for the floor in the bathroom and on the first floor, polyethylene foam is used. Lighter fiberglass is usually used on floors between floors and in bathrooms.

When arranging the floor of the first floor of the house, it is necessary to lay a metal reinforcing mesh and a layer of roofing material on the ground for better waterproofing.

Finishing floor

Wooden boards are used as finishing flooring, along the edges of which there are devices for connecting the boards to each other according to the "groove - thorn" principle. For better fastening, you can use metal screws or nails. The distance from the edges of the boards to the walls should be about two centimeters to compensate for possible expansion of the boards. The boards are laid in a direction perpendicular to the window.

Many have heard of "floating floors". What is it? For better sound insulation, as well as to improve ventilation under the flooring, the boards can be laid along the joists without attaching them to the walls. This design is called a "floating floor". The floating floor structure also allows the decking wood to expand when exposed to high temperatures without the risk of deforming the boards. Such a "floating" device is more often used on the ceilings of the upper floors, in attics and attics, especially if the roof of the house is made of rolled metal, profiled sheet and other metal materials.

Features and nuances

To make a floor in the premises of a wooden house, you can use various technologies for laying it and choose various materials, including for insulation, sound and waterproofing.

In particular, as a heater, in addition to mineral and glass wool, you can use expanded clay, poured into the recesses between the beams, sawdust or slag. Styrofoam sheets will also work. However, materials such as expanded clay, slag or sawdust are better suited for ground floor floors, especially under bathrooms.

At the same time, when laying the floor of the ceilings of the second and more floors, it is better to use mineral wool for better sound insulation. It is also better suited for attic floor ceilings.

Important! In the bathroom and other rooms with high humidity, it is better to use fiberglass as an insulating material, since it has great waterproofing properties.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden floors

Well-designed hardwood floors have the following benefits:

Environmental friendliness - the use of natural materials almost never harms the health of households. If it is necessary to change some elements of the floor, there will be no problems with their disposal;
Aesthetics - very beautiful and noble;
Durability - with proper care, these floors will last a long time even in such "difficult" rooms as, for example, a bathroom. Many pre-revolutionary houses still have floors installed over a hundred years ago.

However, in all these barrels of honey there are quite a few fly in the ointment:

Complexity of the device- unlike a concrete floor, which is not difficult to fill for an average builder, wooden floors, arranged according to science, are installed long and difficult;
The need for care- wood is susceptible to moisture, various microorganisms, fungi (this is most critical in a kitchen or bathroom). This forces builders to apply various antiseptic and other chemicals during installation. In addition, the boards should be periodically treated with such preparations and during their operation. They must be kept almost perfectly clean, which is not always possible, for example, in the country. In addition, they need regular paint and varnish;
High price- the construction of such floors requires more funds than concrete floors, in addition, regular careful maintenance of them also requires financial costs;
Maintenance - for any, even the highest-quality construction, any floor, after its installation, requires constant maintenance in order to avoid the appearance of cracks, chips and breakages in its elements. Such damage can lead to the destruction of the entire structure, and in case of damage to the floors of the ceilings, it can lead to damage to the walls. Damage to bathroom floors can cause damage to waterproofing and water supply pipes.

Building a house in general and installing floors, in particular, is a long, laborious and responsible process. Doing it yourself is a thankless job. Even if the owner of the house has the necessary tools and materials to do everything himself, it is better not to perform feats on your own. There are many construction organizations, whose professional employees have the necessary knowledge and skills in the construction of such houses, possess the necessary tools and equipment for laying floors in the house and bathroom.

From the author: we are glad to welcome novice builders who have decided to insulate the floors in their homes with their own hands. This is undoubtedly the right decision, because the utility costs for its maintenance in the cold season directly depend on how well your house retains heat. The money you pay for heating is enough for a natural mink coat, two sets of winter tires, or at least a few trips to a restaurant. It's a shame, isn't it? Here's an incentive to read the article to the end.

Surely many of you have heard of the term "floor cake on the ground." What kind of dish is this? Builders call "cake" the multilayer structure used to create warm, durable and functional flooring. The layers and technology of laying floor layers with insulation will differ depending on whether work is being carried out in an apartment or a private house, what kind of finishing coating will be used in this case, how things are with the humidity and temperature conditions in the room, etc.

Floor installation in private houses is a complex process that requires certain knowledge. Now we will try to tell you in as much detail as possible how to make the right base for insulating floors in a wooden frame house, we will share special chips regarding the laying technology. Read, delve into, take notes. We are sure that following our advice, you can easily do it yourself.

Source: http://papamaster.su

Why lay the flooring in layers?

The visible part of the floor, on which we walk, is only the "tip of the iceberg", at the bottom of which there are several tens of centimeters of layers of other materials. All this is done in order to correctly make the foundation in a wooden house and provide your home with a comfortable microclimate. The parameters important for any gender are:

evenness - if the base of the floor is uneven, the flooring will wear out unevenly in different areas;
high sound insulation - the room is more comfortable, the fewer extraneous sounds are heard in it;
wear resistance affecting the service life of the coating;
ability to keep warm.

Laying technology for flooring layers

To carry out work with a wooden floor, we need the following materials:

screws and nails;
insulation - slabs of mineral wool, polystyrene or polystyrene foam;
vapor barrier membrane;
polyethylene film for vapor barrier;
penoizol or assembly foam;
timber timber;
reinforcing tape made of aluminum.

The construction of flooring on logs is the most popular used in modern construction. In the first case, when laying is carried out on wooden beams of the first floor in a high-rise, or in a wooden frame house, the base must be carried out following the following sequence:

Source: http://stroitel.linpc.ru

the soil is selected under the base with a depth of about half a meter, after which the markings are made for the posts, in increments of 60 to 70 centimeters;
the base under the posts must be rigid, so it is poured and tamped, or it is poured with concrete;
the upper part of the posts is verified using a level;
the heat-insulating layer is poured in such a way that at least 25 cm remains to the top of the posts. Expanded clay is the most popular insulation when carrying out such work; sawdust is also often used for this purpose;
after complete hardening of the solution, the beams are laid;
it is convenient when the supports are set first along the perimeter, and then in the center of the room;
on top of the supports, waterproofing is laid in two layers (plastic film, roofing material or filling types of waterproofing);
lags are installed. Most often, they are mounted perpendicular to the light from the window opening, in order to then lay the boards along it. First, logs are installed around the perimeter, with an indent from the wall from 2 to 3 centimeters. After that, intermediate ones are set. The lags are mounted on the base without using rigid fasteners. To strengthen the structure and give it rigidity, you can connect the logs to each other using wooden jumpers fixed on galvanized corners.
for additional insulation, bars are nailed to the logs, on which the subfloor is mounted (plywood or OSB boards). It is recommended to lay it not too tightly, leaving gaps that will subsequently serve for ventilation;
a layer of waterproofing film is laid, which is usually fixed with a construction stapler. All joints are glued with reinforced tape;
insulation (mineral wool, foam, foam) is being laid, on top of which a vapor barrier membrane is fixed;
using liquid penoizol, the joints between the wall and the film are processed. This provides additional protection for the entire structure;
the laying of the front floor covering from the boards is carried out.

From this video instruction, you will learn how to install different floor coverings in a country house:

Now you know what a screed looks like on wooden beams, and you are familiar with all the stages of work. But how to do it correctly on the ground? It is possible to equip such a coating in any house, regardless of the level of occurrence of underground groundwater, on any foundation. The only exception is the building on piles. Such a foundation is simple and reliable, uncomplicated for independent implementation. There are no basements or ventilation gaps in the subfloor.

A proper wood floor screed consists of nine main layers, each of which has a different function. The thickness of them can vary for each building individually. They all fit in a strictly defined sequence:

a layer of prepared clay, the purpose of which is to stop groundwater, more precisely, to cut off their capillary rise;
sand is filled in to weaken the capillary rise of water and to relieve the pressure of subsequent layers. You can use sand of any quality, including unwashed quarry;
a layer of coarse (with a fraction of 40–60 mm) crushed stone, which also prevents the rise of water. Each of the above 3 layers must have a height of at least 10 centimeters and must be compacted. It is impossible to change the order of their falling asleep, since in this case deformation and destruction of the entire structure will occur very quickly;
a layer of plastic wrap used to prevent the laitance from dripping into the lower layers. It fits in 2 layers with an overlap, all joints and places where it fits to the wall are carefully glued;
a rough concreting is carried out using "lean concrete", for which fine (with a fraction of 10–12 mm) crushed stone and washed sand are used. Dispersed reinforcement using steel fiber is also carried out. The freshly poured mortar must be leveled using corner marks, this will simplify further work on installing the floor;
a waterproofing layer is laid, for which an ordinary roofing material is suitable. In some cases, it is recommended to lay it in two layers, the joints are soldered using a construction hair dryer;
any insulation is used as the next layer (heat-insulating) - polystyrene, penoplex. The joints between the insulation plates are also carefully glued to avoid heat loss;
finishing screed is performed, at which "warm floors" can be installed immediately;
installation of flooring, which can be anything at the request of the owner of the home.

This is how the base is “prepared” for parquet boards, laminate, linoleum and other coatings. As you can see, there are no special difficulties in working on the correct laying of the floor with your own hands, and any person with minimal construction skills can cope with them. Well, it's time to get down to business!

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No one disputes the triumphant return of wood flooring, their environmental friendliness and durability have been proven over decades of use. It will be no secret that such "revolutionary materials" as carpet, laminate and are made on the basis of polymers and contain substances harmful to the environment. Whether it's a classic - the warmth and cozy color of natural wood will make the interior of any home comfortable for living.

General requirements

Any objects made of wood means, first of all, installation of floors in a log house from a similar material. This solution will create harmony between the walls and the flooring. The technology of laying wood flooring has been known for a long time, but the improvement of technological procedures continues to this day. The structural diagram of the arrangement of the covering made of wood consists of:

preparatory (draft) layer;
finishing flooring.

Regardless of execution the flooring must meet these requirements, how:

water resistance;
aesthetics;
abrasion resistance;
hygiene;
durability;
manufacturability of laying.

In addition, the coating must be warm, easy to clean, have high sound insulation properties and match the interior of the building.

Options for flooring in a wooden frame and the main structural elements

Masters advise using the two most common techniques arrangement of boardwalk in a private house:

on the ground using logs;
on floor beams.

The choice of option depends on the design of the object. and should be carried out at the initial stages of design construction... In buildings with two levels and rooms with a basement the second way is almost always used - on floor beams... His advantage consists in complete isolation from the ground, moreover, such a structure increases the rigidity of the entire structure. Flaw such installation of floors on logs in a wooden frame consists of increased noise, but the use of special noise-absorbing gaskets will reduce the noise level.

Option with decking on the ground provides for the equipment of supports, on which logs are subsequently laid. Thus, communication with walls is excluded and, accordingly, sound and vibration vibrations are minimal... The basis for the supports can be red brick or concrete masonry. Important! Supports are formed in rows with spans equal to the distance between the lags, usually 0.5-1 meter. A layer of roofing material should be laid under the base of the lag. During work, regularly monitor the horizon with a lag level, their joints should be located only on the posts of the supports.

It will not be superfluous to remove a layer of soil to a depth of about 40-50 cm, followed by backfilling of the underground space with gravel, crushed stone or river sand.

Depending on the conditions of the functioning of the dwelling plank flooring is divided into two types:

single- for objects intended for seasonal residence;
double- for premises with a permanent mode of residence.

First option flooring in wooden log cabins most often used in summer cottages where people spend the summer season. Double construction formed in capital buildings and implies the use insulation, as well as layers of steam and sound insulation.

Single wood flooring technology

In rooms with a small area, beams are mounted and attached directly to the wall. If laying the lag on the support posts is considered, then it is necessary to take into account the requirements that will ensure the reliability of the overall structure. Let's say the gap between the posts is 0.8 m - the bearing beams must have a cross section of at least 100X100 mm. With an increase in the parameters between the supports to 1 meter, 120X120 mm beams will already be required. Lags are mounted across the room at intervals corresponding to the thickness of the boards. For example, a distance of 0.5 m will be sufficient to install a 28 mm cover. For quality flooring in a wooden frame grooved lumber is used from coniferous or deciduous species with a thickness of 28-40 mm... Traditional location - perpendicular to the wall with windows... The material is fixed with nails, their length is taken from - 2.5 times the thickness of the lumber. Possible two fastening methods:

normal;
parquet.

The essence of the conventional method is that the nail is driven into the face of the board. Second option- this is driving a nail at a 45 ° angle into the corner of the ridge.

Important! The very first plank is laid at a distance of 10-15 mm from the wall. It is recommended to initially lay the flooring using a parquet method, i.e. only every sixth board is fixed. As the material dries, the floor is re-paved with less labor. Wedges are used to compact the rows, the gap should not exceed 1 mm.

In order to ventilate the underfloor space, it is necessary to arrange openings in the corners of the floor, which are closed with decorative grilles. Its design should prevent the ingress of foreign objects and water during cleaning. It should be remembered that vents in the flooring are not enough, and provide windows for ventilation in the basement of the building in advance.

The foundation was poured, the walls were raised, the roof was installed and windows with doors were installed. You can also start laying floors in a wooden house with your own hands. The stage of work is not difficult, but it requires an attentive approach to details.

The correct laying of the floor cake is a guarantee of its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and the entire coating will have to be re-finished in a few years. Lack of ventilation in the subfloor will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Sub-floor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - decay makes building elements unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not cut the logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed sometime. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix it after raising the walls.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by organizing sufficient air vents in the basement or foundation. According to the regulations, in a subfield without forced ventilation, the area of the air must correspond to 1: 400 of the area of the subfloor. Otherwise, regardless of waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be impartial.

When the flooring is ready, you can start insulation. But before laying the insulation, it is worth solving the issue of its protection from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on the adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what's the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet vapors. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barrier films - on the inside. With the walls, everything is clear. But how and what to put on the floor?

It is better to lay any vapor-proof films under the hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, you can even simple polyethylene films. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from vapors rising directly from the damp earth. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture to the outside are not useful here - all the vapors still rise up. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to the time-tested glassine as a "breathing" material.

But on top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. For this, a special ventilation gap is left (at least 5 cm). If the lag boards are not high enough, along them, on top of the membrane, a counter batten is nailed, on which the finishing floor is laid.

Floor insulation - why is it needed?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises upward. According to this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house in any way. In fact, the heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All because of the same convection - the air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and energy is also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogs of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;

Styrofoam and its derivatives are not exposed to moisture, so it does not need waterproofing, lightweight and inexpensive, but creates a "greenhouse effect" in the house and is not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk insulation is laid on a continuous flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a thinned sub-floor, as long as the waterproofing is properly installed and the insulation is protected from rodents.

Finishing floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, almost any floor can be laid in a wooden house:

Wood floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put in good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay the tiles in the kitchen and in the bathroom - places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the device of warm wooden floors and even a concrete screed along the joists. So the choice depends only on building skills and design preferences.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology in a wooden house

Warm floors are comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games outside. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it's a sin not to use this!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, a warm floor in a concrete screed is difficult to make, but it is quite possible:

The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the logs in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finished floor, will be about 150 kg / m2, and this is without taking into account the furniture and residents. The step of the beams when pouring concrete is halved, while the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).

A great way to reduce slab weight is to avoid sub-flooring. It is enough to fix the vapor barrier film with slats along the bottom so that the insulation plates do not sag.

A dense waterproofing is laid on top of the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all the places of its attachment to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.

Slate or cement-bonded particle board is placed on the waterproofing - they have the best adhesion to concrete. On top of the level, formwork is installed with the same height as the future screed. Reinforcement mesh is laid on substrates made of the same slate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
The "snail" of floor heating pipes is laid out. It can be fastened to the mesh with standard cable ties. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and the reinforcement - to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.

To protect themselves, a test run of underfloor heating systems with increased pressure is performed. If no leaks are found, you can start pouring.

After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it with a long rule. It takes 1-2 weeks to water the concrete for it to gain strength. After a month, you can start laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists are not strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, don't be upset! After all, you can make a dry warm floor with water heating. To do this, you need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. Laminate is laid on top. The whole process is presented in detail in the video: