Insulation of the ceiling with reeds in a private house. How to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house? Proper insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house. Ceiling insulation with expanded clay

Projects of modern country houses most often involve the use of a room under the roof (attic) as living rooms. In this case, a construction called "warm roof" is used, in which the roof slopes are insulated. Such insulation is thought out at the project stage, so in the future the attic room can be used all year round. But if a country house was built ten or even twenty years ago, then high-quality thermal insulation may be absent. It also happens that the homeowner preferred a "cold roof" for reasons of economy or construction features (for example, because of the need to install a lightweight roof structure).

Peculiarities

So, first you need to decide on the side of the ceiling slabs that you will insulate. Let's just say that certain rules or there are no strict instructions - you can insulate the ceiling from any side. There are even options for insulating floors on both sides. However, if the height of the premises in the house is small, then it is better to carry out thermal insulation work from the attic side. It is more correct to choose the finish from the attic side also in the case when the house has already been renovated, but there is no desire to re-finish.

Of course, if the house is undergoing renovations and it is decided to install a panel or slatted ceiling, it makes sense to simultaneously lay the most suitable insulating material between the base ceiling and the new ceiling. In all other cases, the owners of private houses prefer to arrange a heat-insulating barrier in the attic.

The main advantages of warming a house with cold slopes:

• almost all heat-insulating materials are characterized by the effect of noise reduction, so the noise of rain, wind or a nearby highway will not be heard;
• insulation will protect the house not only from the cold, but also from the heat.

materials

When comparing materials for cold-type insulation of floors, we are faced with the following problem - they are all very different in their characteristics, from price to degree of environmental friendliness. Therefore, we cannot unambiguously call some insulation “good”, and some “bad”. In order to get the most complete picture of modern materials for thermal insulation, we will consider each group in detail.

So, the owner of a country house will have to make a choice between the following materials:

• Mineral wool or mineral wool belongs to the group of fibrous heaters. Most often made of fiberglass or basalt fiber.
• Ecowool. Modern insulating material based on cellulose.
• Group of polymeric heaters. Styrofoam, polyurethane, expanded polystyrene.
• Loose insulation - expanded clay, vermiculite.
• natural traditional materials- shavings, dry leaves and reeds, straw, sawdust, needles. Can be used with clay.

Let's talk more about each group.

Mineral wool

The method of production of mineral wool is the same for all the minerals from which it is made - melting, separating into fibers and fastening the fibers with an adhesive. Melting glass will eventually give glass wool, slag - slag wool, basalt - basalt fiber. Basalt fiber in this group is the highest quality and safest for human health.

Plates, mats and rolls of mineral wool are characterized by excellent technological characteristics. These are non-combustible and low-combustible porous materials with a density of 35 to 100 kg/m3. The most dense are mats, they can even be plastered.

To insulate the attic, it is enough to use mineral wool of medium and low density, sold in rolls.

The cost of this material is low, it is cheaper than most polymeric heaters. In addition, mineral wool is rarely attacked by rodents, and the wood under the mineral wool plates does not rot. The disadvantages that you need to pay attention to are the ability to pass moisture and health hazards. So, even water vapor can deprive mineral wool of thermal insulation qualities, however, after drying, the properties of the material will be restored.

By the way, the ability of mineral wool to retain heat depends on the density index. The average density is 0.045 W / ms, which is quite enough for high-quality insulation of a house where you can live in winter.

Fiberglass should be used exclusively for insulating ceilings from the attic side, and stone fiber can also be used inside the house.

Polymer heaters

Traditional foam plastic and modern foam plastic (extruded polystyrene) are widely used as heaters. The cost is affordable, the thermal insulation qualities are good. The only serious drawback of polystyrene is its flammability and toxicity of the substance released during combustion, which is why in many countries polystyrene is prohibited from being used for thermal insulation.

Penoplex is a modern material, so it does not have such disadvantages as polystyrene. Even when burning, it is prone to self-extinguishing, which makes it especially attractive when choosing a heater for wooden buildings. Moisture and bacteria will also not cause any harm to foam plastic - it is a strong and durable material that allows it to be used even when insulating damp basements.

The more difficult (and colder) the climatic conditions, the larger the foam layer should be. So, for cold regions, the layer should not be less than 10 centimeters.

Sprayed heaters

Ecowool and polyurethane foam are a new type of insulation - sprayed. Both heat-insulating materials are placed on the surface to be insulated by spraying, but sometimes ecowool is simply poured between the floor joists and rammed. Ecowool is made from cellulose, and polyurethane foam is a polymer and is similar to ordinary polyurethane foam.

Despite the fact that spraying insulation requires special equipment (moreover, its cost is considerable and the purchase for a one-time use will be unjustified), many owners of country houses choose it. Why? Of course, because it is a seamless material, which means that the appearance of cracks or cavities through which cold air can enter the room is excluded.

By the way, the thermal insulation characteristics of sprayed heaters are approximately 1.5 times higher than those of polystyrene and mineral wool. To disadvantages polyurethane foam should include the need for protection from ultraviolet radiation, since under the influence of sun rays she is destroyed.

Loose insulation

Loose thermal insulators have remained popular for many decades, as they can fill a wide variety of spaces. Bulk materials are made from waste cellulose, glass and other post-industrial materials - vermiculite, perlite, polystyrene. Loose heat insulators are quite diverse, but in the first place today, of course, expanded clay. Large, medium and small expanded clay granules are made from ordinary clay, do not burn and have no smell. If you choose expanded clay as a heater, give preference to large porous granules - they retain heat best.

Bulk heaters have a lot of advantages:

• environmentally friendly;
• fire resistant;
• unattractive to insects and rodents.

Loose insulation is not afraid of high humidity, the granules do not crumble and do not split. Despite the fact that these heaters pass steam well, the floors do not dampen, since the special structure of the materials provides excellent ventilation. At bulk materials there is one drawback that needs to be mentioned - you will have to build an additional partition to fill the insulation between the wall and the cladding. With the floor and ceiling, the situation is somewhat simpler - the granules can be poured into the space between the lags of the subfloor and the main floor, and when insulated from the side of the attic, you can not close loose insulation nothing if the premises will not be used as residential.

Natural heat insulators

For centuries, our ancestors used to insulate their homes natural materials- sawdust and shavings, reeds, hay, spruce branches, cones, leaves and even dry algae. The choice of insulation depended on what suitable material was more in the area. By the way, if there are woodworking enterprises in the region of your residence, you can get sawdust and shavings literally for a penny or even free of charge, because such companies often seek to get rid of production waste themselves.

Unfortunately, all natural heat insulators (with the exception of clay) can catch fire easily and quickly. In addition, rodents often settle in natural heat insulators.

Insulation thickness

Remember that no matter what material you choose for ceiling insulation, the effectiveness of the work carried out will depend on the correctly selected thickness of the insulation layer. Also, regardless of the type of insulation, it is recommended to remove all electrical cables in special insulating tubes. When building a new house, calculations are carried out by designers and allow you to take into account the thermal conductivity of all building materials. Such calculations will be the most accurate, but when insulating an ordinary country house, we use simpler methods.

So, it is known that the thickness of the layer of shavings or sawdust for regions where the temperature in winter drops no more than -15 ° C, a layer of 5-6 cm is enough. If the temperature drops to -25 ° C, the layer thickness increases to 8-10 centimeters.

For other heaters, it is most convenient to use a formula that allows you to determine its thickness with approximate accuracy. To do this, you need to know the thermal conductivity of the material (often it is indicated on the packaging of the material or certification documents and is indicated by W / mS). Next, find out the indicator of the minimum floor resistance for your region (m2S / W) - information about this indicator can be found on the Internet or in any large hardware store from a specialist consultant. Now you can calculate the thickness of the insulation by multiplying this figure by the declared thermal conductivity of the insulation.

For example, for the Moscow region, insulation should provide heat transfer resistance of 4.15 m2C / W. Suppose that a foam plastic was chosen as a heater, the thermal conductivity of which is 0.04 W / mS. We multiply the indicators: 4.15 x 0.04 \u003d 0.166 m (or 170 mm). According to this formula, it can be seen that the thinnest layer will be made of polyurethane, and the thickest - expanded clay.

Laying technology

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside (cold) side is also popular because you can not think about problems with condensate - steam does not enter the thickness of the insulation, which means it cannot condense there and provoke the appearance of mold.

From the author: hello dear reader. If you are reading this, I assume that you private house, and you decided to insulate the ceiling from the side of the cold attic with your own hands. If this is the case, then further information is what you need to properly insulate the ceiling of the house.

What you need to know before starting work

Where to start? .. The topic is quite extensive, and work related to insulation requires, if not professional, then at least basic knowledge about the materials available on the market, their properties and how to use them.

If you do the work without having this knowledge, you can, at best, spend time, effort and money, so to speak, on the wind, because of which it is just cold, and at worst, provoke a fire due to neglect of the rules of technology fire safety and improper installation of insulation material. Yes, insulation is needed to keep warm, but a fire is already a clear bust in every sense.

Now we will look at the most popular materials, and also find out with a cold attic using common types of insulation. We will find out what are the advantages and, possibly, disadvantages of each of them.

Insulation with foam

Styrofoam is one of the most popular materials for insulation. It is lightweight and easy to cut even with a regular cardboard cutter. In a word, working with polystyrene is convenient, fast, pleasant and, in principle, not difficult. The main thing is to make the right measurements and not cut off the excess from the whole sheet. But even if you overdid it, there is nothing fundamentally terrible about it: this place can be easily filled mounting foam. Let's imagine the advantages of polystyrene in the form of a short list:

• it is easy to cut;
• easy to transport to the top;
• it is not afraid of moisture and is not sensitive to temperature;
• it is not suitable for consumption by insects and rodents;
• if the foam is laid correctly - on a dry base treated with an antiseptic, the likelihood of the appearance of fungal formations (mold) is minimized;
• material has a relatively low cost.

The list could go on, but I think this is enough. We have listed the main positive aspects of the material.

But the foam is also different. Yes, there are different manufacturers, but that's not about that now. The fact is that the sheets are produced in different parameters. In this case, we are interested in thickness.

For insulation of residential premises, sheets with a thickness of 5–7 cm are usually used, while their density, as a rule, is 15 kg / m³. of course, the higher the density index, the higher the material's ability to insulate. You can, of course, choose 25 kg / m³, you can lay the sheets in two layers - this is not forbidden.

But, nevertheless, there is a recommendation: if you are going to mount an attic floor made of hard material (for example, fiberboard / OSB boards), then it is enough to choose foam with a density of 15 kg / m³. If the installation of a rigid surface is not planned, for better thermal insulation it is worth choosing sheets with a density index of 25 kg / m³.

In general, if there is such an opportunity, then a hard floor should be mounted in any case. This will allow you to store various things in the attic or even turn it into additional living space, if, of course, it is properly equipped.

But if there is no hard surface above the sheets, then it is not advisable to walk on them often, and even more so, move objects. Simply, they are not designed for this, regardless of what density they will have.

Insulation from the attic in a wooden or brick one is not fundamentally different: both there and there the process consists in simply laying polystyrene foam on the floor of the attic. More specifically, the following work needs to be done:

• check the entire wooden structure for rot. If you find a rotten area, then it must be cut out and replaced with a new piece of wood, pre-treated with an antiseptic. In general, it would be useful to treat all elements of a wooden structure with an antiseptic. Even if these measures were taken during the construction of the house, prevention will never be superfluous. Especially in matters related to construction;
• clean the attic floor from debris (including small ones) - the base must be clean;
• make the necessary measurements, make calculations;
• cut foam sheets according to calculations;

• lay polystyrene on the surface. Be prepared for the fact that this material will cost more than the foam itself, but this is quite justified. In essence, there are alternative options, and in some cases they do without it at all;
• lay cooked;
• fill the gaps between the sheets with mounting foam. Distance between sheets and load-bearing structures also needs to be foamed.

Here is such a simple way to insulate a home from the attic with foam. Now let's move on to another, no less popular and effective insulation- mineral wool.

Warming with mineral wool

Warming with mineral wool is another, no less popular way. Mineral wool is widely used for warming apartments, houses, balconies, loggias. Moreover, both ceilings and facades. The range of its application is no less wide than that of polystyrene.

Just like polystyrene, mineral wool has its advantages:

• relatively low cost;
• it is unsuitable for rodents and insects;
• it is quite easy to work with it;
• the material is considered flammable.

But, among other things, mineral wool has its own characteristic drawbacks, associated, for the most part, with its structure, with the nature of the material itself:

• when wet, it loses its valuable qualities. of course, if a few drops of water fall on it, nothing bad will happen, but if your roof leaks with enviable regularity, dampness will accumulate in the cotton - then it will not only cease to perform its functions, the main of which is heat preservation, but also time will become the place of residence of fungal formations. And growing such “mushrooms” in the attic is hardly included in your plans;
• cotton wool cannot be pressed for the same reasons. No, mold will not start in it from this, but its effectiveness will decrease by about 30–40%, depending on how you “try”;
• people with diseases respiratory system(for example, with asthma) it is better not to look at mineral wool at all. But if you had a chance to work with her, then it is necessary to use personal protective equipment - of course, not a gas mask, but at least a gauze bandage.

I would not say that the disadvantages of mineral wool are significant, so as not to consider it as possible option. I repeat, mineral wool is an affordable, reliable and common insulation. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and not violate the rules of operation.

As for the thickness, then, again, the thicker the layer, the warmer it will be in the room. With considering natural conditions, in attics, as a rule, a layer of mineral wool is laid from 15 cm to 30 cm or more.

Another important point: if you use several types of insulation (yes, this is also possible), then the bottom layer should be the least vapor permeable. In other words, it is possible to lay mineral wool on polystyrene, but not polystyrene on mineral wool. If there is a need for sound insulation, it is recommended to use mineral wool with a density of 40 kg / m³.

Here we come to the essence of this section. Let's get to work:

• Be sure (!) We check the boards for rot. Outwardly, they may look intact, but if you hear a dull sound when hit with a hammer, it is most likely rotten inside. It should be replaced with a new fragment treated with an antiseptic. In general, the preparation is the same as when using foam;
• checking the roof. If it leaks at least a little, the mineral wool will not forgive you for this. Therefore, be sure to eliminate the leak;
• checking communications. Although mineral wool is a hardly flammable material, it is still worth being safe;
• clean the surface of debris;
• we build a wooden frame;
• we lay the vapor barrier material. Just in case, I will say that the vapor barrier cannot be laid on both sides. If you suddenly want to spread it on top - resist this pernicious desire. The condensate will have nowhere to evaporate, and then the mineral wool will begin to slowly but surely rush;

• roll out the rolls between the beams (well, or lay the tiles);
• we mount a wooden base;
• enjoy the work done.

You can do without installing a hard floor. This is not necessary, but, again, it will not be possible to walk or put something on the surface (remember that cotton wool cannot be pressed).

We have already considered two popular ways to insulate a house with a cold attic. Now let's look at other options. I must say right away that they are more labor-intensive, but, at the same time, more economical in terms of finance. One of these methods is the use of expanded clay.

Warming with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a material that is obtained by firing low-melting grades of clay. The resulting gravel has the shape of oval spools, and the color is somewhere between brown and orange. The bulk density of expanded clay is also different - from 350 to 600 kg / m³ or more. Now it is not so important for us.

Consider the characteristic advantages and disadvantages of expanded clay. So, the advantages:

• low price (as a rule, it costs several times cheaper than mineral wool or polystyrene foam);
• fire resistance - expanded clay does not burn at all;
• high ability to soundproofing - if this, of course, is relevant;
• expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material: it does not emit any fumes into the air.

It would seem ideal. Yes, indeed, this is a great option for warming a private house. There is only a specific detail: it is a porous material - and absorbing moisture, its weight increases, and its thermal insulation qualities decrease. If the roof of your house is leaking (at least a little), the first thing to do before starting work is to repair the roof. Moisture is harmful, as we have already found out, not only for expanded clay, but also for mineral wool and other alternatives.

Keep in mind that expanded clay is quite heavy - it is not polystyrene or cotton wool. Therefore, before pouring it out, make sure that the attic floor / ceiling of the room below is secure. If the boards are hemmed from below to the beams, there is a chance that the first ones will not withstand the onslaught and come off the beams. Then expanded clay will be right in the room.

A person feels comfortable in a house that is warm, dry and comfortable. A well-built roof is responsible for the absence of leaks. Comfort in the house consists of the interior, the atmosphere and the absence of extraneous noise. Warming and soundproofing the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool will make the house a warm and peaceful place.

Mineral wool. General information

Before you insulate the ceiling with mineral wool, you must choose the right material and study its properties. Mineral wool has two classifications.

The first is in the form:

Table of varieties of mineral wool

• mats (rolled into rolls for transportation, have low strength characteristics);
• slabs (rigid or semi-rigid, have increased strength and can be used, for example, in floor construction);
• cylinders (special products made of mineral wool, designed to insulate pipelines).

The second classification is according to the raw materials used for manufacturing:

Basalt fiber is the most common type of insulation. The second name is stone wool. This type of wool is the most durable and is used to insulate surfaces that are subject to severe stress and mechanical stress. To make the material, basalt is crushed and melted, after which the finest fibers are obtained from it. The fibers are pressed by heating them before that to a high temperature. Basalt insulation is produced in the form of rigid plates.

The method of manufacturing glass wool is similar to basalt fiber. Another mineral, quartz, is used as the raw material. Glass fiber allows you to reuse broken glass. Manufacturers use cullet in the manufacture, its amount can reach up to 80% of all raw materials for production. Glass wool is available in the form of mats, rigid and semi-rigid slabs.

The last type of mineral wool is slag material. Slag wool is made from industrial waste. The following types of slags are used as raw materials:

This type of raw material has a low cost, but environmental friendliness leaves much to be desired.

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool is best done:

• rigid basalt slabs for insulation from above (outside the premises, from the side of the attic);
• mats that are light in weight for insulation from below (from the side of the room).

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

Mineral wool heat insulator when insulating in a private house has the following advantages:

• high level of thermal insulation (to ensure thermal protection, a sufficiently thin layer of material is needed);
• good soundproofing characteristics;
• fire resistance and fire safety;
• the material does not change shape when the ambient temperature changes;
• resistance to microorganisms, mold and fungus;
• resistance to aggressive environments;
• strength for some brands.

Thermal protection of the ceiling with mineral wool also has disadvantages:

• a sufficiently large weight of the material (compared to polystyrene), this is especially important when insulating the ceiling in a private house from below (from the side of the room);
• the complexity of working with the material due to the need to apply additional protective equipment;
• the ability of mineral wool to absorb moisture, while reducing thermal insulation properties.

Safety

When working with a mineral wool heat insulator in a private house, it is necessary to take into account the features of its structure. The material is made of the smallest fibers that can separate and enter the human body. To prevent harm to workers and residents of the house, attention should be paid to the following points:

• gloves, masks and overalls for workers to prevent material fibers from entering the skin and lungs;
• preventing contact of air flows entering the ventilation system with the surface of the insulation to prevent danger to residents.

Warming technology

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool can be carried out in two ways. The choice of method largely depends on the type of insulated floor. For interfloor, from which side to carry out activities, it does not matter. Insulation of the attic floor is best done from the side of cold air (outside), this is a more competent solution from the point of view of heat engineering. Insulation of the attic floor from the inside has the following disadvantages:

• reducing the height of the room;
• only the room is protected from the cold, the floor structure is exposed to low temperatures;
• condensation may occur in the thickness of the ceiling structure;
• the difficulty of performing insulation work in a private house, since they will have to be performed at high altitude with the head raised for a long time.

Scheme of insulation of the attic floor from the outside

Insulation of the attic floor from above (outside) should be carried out in compliance with the following order of laying materials:

• overlap;
• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation layer;
• waterproofing layer;
• reinforced concrete screed.

In this case, only hard types of mineral wool are used. It is not allowed to use material in rolls, since it is deformed when walking on the attic floor.

Scheme of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

When carrying out measures for the thermal insulation of the ceiling in the house from the inside of the room, the arrangement of the layers changes (from bottom to top):

For these purposes, heavy mineral wool boards are not used, as with outside insulation. It is better to purchase mineral wool mats that have a lower density.

Insulation of the ceiling for interfloor overlap is carried out in the same way as for the ceiling of the upper floor. The difference lies in the thickness of the layer of heat-insulating material.

For thermal insulation to be effective, you need to choose the right thickness of the material. For mineral wool in most climatic regions countries, it is enough to lay a layer 10-15 cm thick (for sound insulation 3-5 cm).

To perform a full-fledged calculation, you need to familiarize yourself with the SP "Thermal Protection of Buildings" and perform calculations manually. You can also use the special Teremok program, which even a non-specialist can figure out.

Proper insulation of the ceiling using mineral wool can eliminate problems with the microclimate in the room and high noise levels. At the same time, it is important to remember that mineral wool is afraid of moisture; it is impossible to neglect hydro and vapor barrier.

How to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool: methods and recommendations

The ceiling is insulated with various materials, but mineral wool is more often used. We will tell you how to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool from the inside and outside.

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool (mineral wool) - step by step instructions

The conditions of the Russian climate with short summers and long frosty winters make it necessary to take additional measures to insulate residential buildings. One of them is the lining of the ceiling with mineral wool. This procedure will eventually help not only to increase the period of heat retention in the premises, but also to avoid the appearance of mold and fungus on the ceiling due to condensate, which is formed as a result of a direct collision of cold and warm air.

Mineral wool ceiling insulation

Most importantly, it has excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and plates. Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the foil content of mineral wool - it’s good if one side of the roll or slab is covered with a layer of waterproofing foil. If there is no such layer, then, ideally, you need to additionally purchase several rolls of foil foam polyethylene. Instead, you can use a dense plastic film. Glassine is suitable as a vapor barrier. These materials are necessary to keep the mineral wool dry, because. wet insulation loses up to 40% of its thermal insulation properties. In addition, you will need self-tapping screws, fasteners with a wide plastic cap, a counter rail, glue for mineral wool, a profile and hangers for a profile, a clerical knife, a construction stapler, nails, a screwdriver, a hammer and a tape measure.

The most common thickness of produced mineral wool layers is 10 and 5 cm. When insulating the ceiling, a layer of insulation 10 cm thick is sufficient, especially difficult cases- 15-20 cm. According to the method of performing work, insulation is divided into internal, external and combined.

Varieties of mineral wool

Internal insulation

Need internal insulation the ceiling is most typical for houses of several floors or with an attic, as well as for city apartments. The entire scope of work consists of the following stages:

1. Ceiling lathing - can be made of boards with a section of 30-40 x 100-200 mm (the width of the board directly depends on the thickness of the insulation layer) or a metal profile. The crate is attached to the ceiling with nails or self-tapping screws, while the distance between adjacent parts should be about 50-60 cm, depending on the width of the mineral wool used.

Ceiling trim

Fastening mineral wool to the ceiling

We fix mineral wool to the ceiling

External insulation

This method is used in private houses with an attic. Compared to the internal, this type of insulation is simpler to perform and takes much less time and effort. So:

1. The entire attic area is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material (glassine) with an overlap of 5-10 cm wide, the joints are glued with adhesive tape or adhesive tape.
2. From boards with a section of 30-40 x 100-200 mm (the width, as with internal insulation, depends on the thickness of the mineral wool layer), the crate is stuffed. The distance between adjacent beams is calculated according to the width of the roll or insulation boards.

We make a crate (grooves) for laying mineral wool

Laying a layer of foam

The process of laying mineral wool in the grooves on the roof

Combined insulation

Combined insulation is the installation of mineral wool on the ceiling both from the inside and from the attic. This method of insulation is typical for rooms in which it is necessary to maintain elevated temperatures for a long time - baths, saunas, steam rooms, etc.

In conclusion, a few words should be said about small tricks that will help to avoid numerous problems after insulating the ceiling with mineral wool:

• The fine fibers that make up mineral wool, when in contact with open areas skin and respiratory tract cause itching and irritation. To avoid causing harm to health, it is necessary to use special clothing and a respirator.
• · When using a crate made of a metal profile, it may subsequently turn out that cold air continues to flow through the ceiling through the corners. To eliminate the occurrence of such a problem, after fixing the metal profile to the ceiling, all corners are carefully filled with mounting foam.
• · Due to calculation errors, the thickness of the mineral wool layer may exceed the width of the crate. In this case, additional bars are nailed to the wooden beams. If the crate is made of a metal profile, you will have to replace the suspensions or reduce the insulation layer.
• · When laying mineral wool, it is strictly forbidden to compact and press it - this leads to a decrease in the number of air bubbles inside the insulation and, as a result, the loss of thermal insulation properties.
• In places of installation of point lighting fixtures it is necessary to provide space for air circulation in order to avoid subsequent problems with their constant burnout.
• · The most suitable for fixing a metal profile are hardened steel self-tapping screws.
• You can determine the current state of the insulated ceiling using a device such as a thermal imager. In the on state, the screen indicates the places where cold air passes through in red.
• All of the above is designed to maximally facilitate and optimize the financial and physical costs of insulating the ceiling with mineral wool. However, to obtain the best result, you should seek the advice of specialists. It is they who will help to make the correct calculations of the required thickness of the insulation layer and, based on this, calculate the final amount of material and its cost. Often, such firms directly cooperate with manufacturers of materials for insulation, which can result in additional savings on purchase.

Instructions on how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool: 5 steps

Mineral wool is widely used as a home insulation. In a house, the question of roof insulation often arises: you want to equip an attic or just keep warm in the house. Most often, mineral wool is used as a heater, but it is worth remembering that it is suitable for use in houses with high ceilings, otherwise the ceiling may turn out to be too low. However, first things first, today we’ll talk about the types of mineral wool, choose the best one and tell you how to properly insulate the ceiling.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house? The best option, of course, is mineral wool.

You can name the following advantages of this type of insulation for the ceiling in the house:

• Low heat conductivity;
• Good sound insulation;
• Increased fire resistance;
• Pretty low price;
• Durability;
• Ease of installation.

However, mineral wool also has some drawbacks, the main one being the absolute lack of resistance to moisture. Upon contact with water, mineral wool quickly gets wet and deformed, losing its functions. Also, a rather large thickness of this material can be considered a disadvantage, so it is best to use it for houses with high ceilings. When choosing mineral wool for ceiling insulation, you need to carefully consider the characteristics in order to acquire a truly high-quality material.

Mineral wool is considered the best option for insulating ceilings.

Mineral wool has the following characteristics:

1. Density. This quality can really be called the most important, it shows the permissible load for mineral wool.
2. Thermal conductivity. Choose the material with the lowest indicator - that is, with the best thermal insulation.
3. The size. There are many various kinds mineral wool, there are rolls, and tiles, and mats. Choose what you think is the most convenient for work.
4. Thickness. Depending on the thickness, the resistance of mineral wool to low temperatures also changes. A thick layer indicates that the material retains heat well, choose cotton wool with a thickness of at least 3 cm.

The most convenient is mineral wool, made in the form of tiles, it has better elasticity, and it is also very easy to mount.

How to fix mineral wool on the ceiling

Before fixing mineral wool to the ceiling, it is necessary to prepare all the tools and materials in advance, this will significantly improve the speed of work.

So, to install insulation on the ceiling, you need the following materials and tools:

• Mineral wool;
• Polyethylene film;
• sealant;
• Wooden slats or bars;
• dowels;
• Glue;
• Drill;

Using a heater, it is possible to carry out two types of insulation: from the outside and from the inside. Internal insulation will take you more effort and will cost more, and will also make the ceiling somewhat lower, choose this method for a house with high ceilings.

Before fixing mineral wool to the ceiling, prepare certain tools and materials

Warming from the inside is carried out in several stages:

1. First, waterproofing is installed, for this, polyethylene is used.
2. The second step is to create a frame, it can be done using wooden beams or metal profile. A frame is fixed along the perimeter of the ceiling with dowels.
3. Next, you need to attach the insulation to the ceiling, this can be done using a special glue that is applied to the insulation and pressed against the ceiling.
4. Let the glue dry, only after complete drying, fix the mineral wool plates with dowels.
5. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the mineral wool, the final stage is the creation of a flooring made of wood or drywall.

Mineral wool for the ceiling: which is better

What is the best mineral wool to insulate the ceiling? What wool to choose? First of all, pay attention to what material the product was made from. Mineral wool is made from stone or glass, depending on the material used, the quality of the mineral wool also changes.

Glass wool, as the name implies, is made from glass, sand from glass is melted during manufacture, as a result, the material acquires a light yellow color.

In a wooden house, it is advisable to use glass wool to insulate the ceiling and floor.

There are several types of mineral wool for the ceiling: glass wool, stone wool and ecowool

Glass wool has the following advantages:

Also pay attention to the country of origin. It is easy to insulate rooms with German glass wool, in general, pay attention to the mineral wool of German companies - Germany has one of the highest quality thermal insulation materials. There is also stone wool, it has more disadvantages, but it is also widely used. This type of wool is used for ceiling insulation and as an insulating material, stone wool has a long service life. There is also ecowool, which is made from cellulose and is also an insulating material that has a light gray color.

Ecowool is also insulated with ceilings, because it is quite profitable and comfortable material. Most often it is used instead of drywall and installed at the end of the insulation work.

How to lay insulation on the ceiling: step by step instructions

So, we warm with our own hands the inside of the attic with mineral wool in a private house.

The sequence of actions when laying insulation on the ceiling is as follows:

• First of all, a diagram of the distances between the ceiling rafters is drawn up;
• Next, a diagram of the width of the mineral wool is drawn up, we measure the insulation along the width of the ceiling with a slight overlap;
• The insulation is laid among the rafters, make sure that it does not fall out;
• Distribute the insulating material tightly between the rafters;
• Next, you need to carefully seal the insulation to prevent the appearance of cold and draft;
• Fix the material with dowels;
• It is also necessary to lay and fix sheets of thermal insulation, fill the gaps with mounting foam;
• Prepare the ceiling with insulation to attach drywall;
• Sheathe the space with drywall.

Lay insulation on the ceiling should be very tight to prevent the appearance of cold in the house

Remember that the laying of the insulating material must be tight to prevent the appearance of cold in the room.

Laying insulation material outside is advisable if the room has low ceilings. In this case, preparation is first made: the attic is cleaned of debris, all joints are carefully sealed with tape. The fixing of the insulation is basically the same, lay the material between wooden beams and fill all cracks with foam. advantage external way isolation is what is required final processing plasterboard ceiling. If you often use the attic, then a floor, for example, made of wood, can be laid on top of the insulating floor.

In conclusion, we can say that insulating the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool is an inexpensive and easy way to eliminate the problem of drafts and cold in the room. You can install the insulating material with your own hands in two ways: external and internal. The first method is suitable for rooms with low ceilings, and the second will require more money from you and significantly lower the ceiling. Which method is preferable is up to you.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool: laying from the attic side, how best to fix it and how to do it right

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool will interest many, because this is one of the ways to solve the problem of cold in the house. How to choose the right mineral wool?

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Currently, almost all residential buildings are heated using gas or electric heat generating equipment. Even country and garden houses, which are used only in summer, are not an exception. Most buildings that are not used year-round are equipped with inexpensive cold-type roofs, through which the main heat loss occurs while maintaining a comfortable temperature regime. In this article we will tell you how to properly insulate the ceiling under cold roof so that the house is always warm.

Features of the device of cold roofs

The design of the roof depends on the nature of the use of the house and the under-roof space. It is on these factors that the choice of shape, roofing material, the scheme of the truss frame and the presence or absence of a thermal insulation layer depend. In private housing construction, 2 types of roofs are used:

• Warm roof. This type of roofing construction provides for complete insulation of slopes. A warm roof is installed if the room located under the slopes is used as a residential one. It is considered an excellent option for equipping a residential attic. It makes sense to build roofs of this type for houses used and heated all year round, since they exclude heat loss through the slopes. The cost of materials and installation work for the construction of a warm roof is much higher than the cost of building a cold one.

Important! If the attic space is not heated, then the air in it serves as a kind of buffer zone, which acts as thermal insulation and reduces heat loss. The air rising from the heated rooms on the first floor, according to the law of convection, gradually cools and does not heat the surface of the slopes from the inside, so that frost does not form on them.

To keep warm, as well as reduce fuel consumption to maintain the optimum temperature, with the help of bulk or fibrous thermal insulation materials, the ceiling located under the cold roof is insulated. Since heated air always rises, this operation is an effective measure to reduce heat loss.

Thermal insulation methods

High-quality thermal insulation reduces heat losses and the cost of heating a house by 30%, which is on a scale family budget is a good savings. Usage suitable insulation and right choice installation methods form a comfortable microclimate in the room. The issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling under a cold roof is best addressed at the stage of building a house, then you can choose the most effective and convenient option. Most often, the insulation is mounted in 2 ways:

1. Insulation from the attic. The most effective and correct builders consider the insulation of the ceiling, located under the cold roof from the side of the attic. The fact is that the ceiling is most often built of wood, which in itself is a good peat insulating material. In this case, the insulation is laid on the attic floor and covered with a subfloor. If the insulation is carried out from the side of the attic, then materials in the form of slabs or backfill can be used.

Note! Any thermal insulation works in a complex way. Therefore, if you want to solve problems with heat loss in a house with a cold roof, do not howl about thermal insulation of the floor, doors and window openings. A clear way to analyze where the heat goes is to look at the house in the thermal imager in winter. To increase the energy efficiency of the house, you need to pay attention to the zones painted in red and yellow, it is through them that heat escapes.

The modern building market offers an impressive range of thermal insulation materials, but not all of them are suitable for cold roof ceiling insulation. In order for the costs to recover, the thermal insulation layer must be resistant to moisture, have low thermal conductivity and meet safety standards for human health. The following materials are used for insulation:

• Expanded clay. Expanded clay is called a bulk-type insulation, which is obtained by firing shale. It has a light weight, porous structure and high thermal insulation properties, but is not afraid of moisture. To insulate the ceiling with this material, a vapor barrier film is laid on the attic floor, fixed with a construction stapler, and then expanded clay is covered with a layer of 15-30 cm. If a finishing floor is installed in the attic, the space between the lags is filled with insulation.

Experienced craftsmen remind you that vapor barrier and waterproofing layers play an important role in warming the floor located under a cold roof. To protect the insulation from getting wet as a result of interaction with heated air saturated with water vapor, first lay vapor barrier membrane. And from the side of the roof, it is protected from leaks with a waterproofing film.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof? Comparison of the effectiveness of materials and methods used for thermal insulation of the attic floor.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

According to the laws of physics, the air heated in the room rises to the ceiling, and if the attic floor has insufficient insulation, then the heat goes outside - this process is called heat loss. In order not to "heat" the street and keep as much heat as possible in the house, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling. You should be aware that from 25 to 40% of heat can escape through the ceiling and roof. This is especially important to take into account if the house has a "cold" roof.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof is best thought out in advance, in the process of building a house, but sometimes this has to be done in an already erected building.

Floor insulation performs not one, but three functions at once, necessary for a comfortable microclimate in the house:

• The insulation material is also an excellent sound insulator, so it will keep the house quiet during heavy rain and wind.
• V winter period the material retains heat in the rooms, since rising to the ceiling and not finding “bridges” for a free exit, it falls down again, remaining in the room.
• In the summer heat, the insulation creates an obstacle to the ingress of heated air into the rooms from the outside, so they will remain cool.

There are many materials and ways to use them to make the ceiling of the house thermally insulated. To choose the one that is suitable for the complexity of installation and financial costs, you need to consider several of them.

Types of insulation materials for the ceiling of the house

When choosing a heater, you need to pay special attention to the following criteria:

• Thermal conductivity. The lower this parameter is, the better.
• Moisture resistance is especially important for insulation, which will be mounted from the side of the attic.
• The combustibility of the material must be low or the material must be completely non-combustible.
• longevity of the heater.
• Ecological purity of raw materials and binders from which the heat insulator is made.

There are also individual parameters for each of the materials that will be characterized when considering heaters in the future.

To insulate the ceiling and the entire attic floor, it is usually used:

• Mineral wool (basalt and glass), produced in rolls and mats.
• Expanded clay of various fractions.
• Sawdust and small shavings.
• Ecowool, which is made from cellulose.
• Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene.
• Polyurethane foam or penoizol.

In addition to the above heaters, dry leaves and straw have always been traditionally used to insulate the ceiling. It must be said that even today some masters are in no hurry to abandon them, but their installation requires knowledge of technology, since this natural material itself is not moisture resistant and not durable.

All heaters used to insulate the ceiling are lightweight, as they should not weigh down the floor structure.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool can be called the most popular material for ceiling insulation. It is used for laying from the side of the attic and rooms, as its characteristics are well suited for these works.

Mineral wool is produced from different raw materials - these are blast-furnace slags, glass cullet and sand, as well as basalt rocks.

It should be noted right away that the material made from blast-furnace slag (slag wool) is poorly suited for insulating a residential building. Humidity can be increased in the attic, especially in spring and autumn period, and it is very hygroscopic, which significantly reduces its thermal insulation qualities. The residual acidity of the material has a very negative effect on other building materials, especially ferrous metals.

Slag wool - unsuitable for residential construction

Slag wool has prickly and brittle fibers, so it is not recommended to use it in residential areas, as their small particles can get suspended in the air.

Its only advantage is its low price compared to other types.

This insulation is made from molten glass mass from which thin fibers are drawn. Further, webs are formed from them, rolled into rolls or cut into separate mats. Glass wool has a lower thermal conductivity than slag wool and basalt insulation, and the moisture absorption of this material is 0.55÷0.8 kg/m².

Glass wool is undesirable to use to insulate the ceiling from the inside

Glass wool is used to insulate attic floors in buildings built from different materials, often in combination with other heat insulators. However, it should only be used for laying from the side of the attic, since its fibers, like those of slag wool, are brittle and brittle, can irritate the skin and mucous membranes, so it is undesirable for them to enter the living quarters.

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt rocks and is the best option for insulating the ceiling from the side of the premises of all the "brothers". Fibers are more ductile and therefore less brittle. They are tightly pressed into mats that have enough good strength. The material is well tolerated by external factors, therefore it is applicable for installation from the side of the attic. Insulation can be sold in rolls or slabs with different densities.

The optimal choice among all mineral wool is basalt

Basalt wool can have a foil layer, which, when properly installed, will enhance the insulation effect, reflecting heat into the room.

A common disadvantage for all types of mineral wool is their binder, consisting of phenol-formaldehyde resins, which will be constantly released into the air, which is quite dangerous for the health of the residents of the house. Therefore, it is impossible to consider this insulation to be fully environmentally friendly.

Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material, as it is made from natural clay, so it is perfect for warming the attic floor. It is non-flammable and does not emit harmful substances when heated. An embankment from it can have a different density, since expanded clay is produced in various fractions, and than smaller size grains or granules, the higher the density, the lower the insulating qualities.

Expanded clay of various fractions

In order to insulate the ceiling, the most the best choice there will be expanded clay having a granule size of 4-10 mm.

Expanded clay does not give dust and does not cause allergic reactions. The insulation has a long service life and does not lose its original qualities throughout the entire period of use.

The material is highly heat-resistant, so they often separate the chimney from the wooden floor by filling it into a metal passage box arranged around the pipe.

The table below shows the comparative characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - expanded clay and ecowool, which will be discussed now.

- 15-20 mm - the presence of voids;

- 5-10 mm - tight fit.

This insulation is not as popular as mineral wool or polystyrene, but it is increasingly being used to insulate floors and walls of private houses. Ecowool consists of small fibers of cellulose, and its laying is carried out in a “wet” or “dry” way.

One of the most promising heaters - ecowool

• The "dry" method involves scattering, distributing and tamping the insulation between the floor beams or the logs fixed to them.
• For installation in a "wet" way, special equipment is required, where the fibers are mixed with adhesive composition, and wet ecowool under pressure through a special pipe is fed and distributed over the surface.

Ecowool spraying using special compressor equipment

• Ecowool can be laid with a layer of any thickness, since it has a very small weight even when compacted, and will not weigh down the attic floor. Due to the "airiness", it perfectly insulates the ceiling.
• This insulation consists of environmentally friendly materials and does not emit toxic substances into the premises.
• Ecowool has the quality of "preserving" the surface, preventing the formation of mold or other types of microflora.
• The heat insulator has a long service life and does not lose its qualities throughout the entire time.
• If necessary, the layer can be supplemented and compacted. Laying the material is carried out quickly enough, especially if special equipment is used for it.
• Ecowool is a low combustible and self-extinguishing insulation, as it is processed with flame retardants during production. It does not give a lot of smoke and does not emit hazardous combustion products.
• Forming a seamless and hermetic coating, the insulation protects well from both cold and heat.
• It is important that cellulose wadding is a "breathable" material, so moisture will not linger in it.

The payback period for such insulation will be two to three years, depending on the installation method and the thickness of the applied layer.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam for insulation work has been used for more than half a century, and during this time it has shown both its positive traits and numerous shortcomings. But, despite the latter, it continues to be used, as it is easy to install and has an affordable price.

Styrofoam is most often used in combination with polyurethane foam, which seals the insulation coating.

Polyfoam, perhaps, has more disadvantages than advantages

The negative qualities of polystyrene include its combustibility with melting and large quantity poisonous toxic smoke. Therefore, in some Western countries, foam is completely banned for use in construction. It is being replaced by extruded polystyrene foam, as this material, made without violating technological processes, is low combustible and self-extinguishing. However, EPPS also has increased toxicity in case of fire, and its use in a home environment should be treated with a certain bias.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a sprayable material, so its application cannot take place without special equipment. If necessary, it can be sprayed in several layers, so it is often used to insulate houses located in the most severe climatic zones.

Sprayed polyurethane foam creates an airtight, seamless coating

When applied, PPU fills all, even the smallest, gaps, cracks and voids and, expanding, forms a seamless hermetic coating. The frozen layer has a high density - you can walk on it, and dents or cracks will not appear on it. Thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / mK and water absorption is not more than 0.2% of its total volume - this means that its heat-insulating qualities are maintained at any environmental humidity.

After hardening, excess material that can rise above the floor beams can be easily removed sharp knife, which makes the material convenient in fitting to the general plane of the attic floor surface.

Another advantage of polyurethane foam is the fact that it does not require auxiliary hydro and vapor barrier materials, since it initially already has similar qualities.

Video: an overview of modern insulation materials

Relatively inexpensive material for ceiling insulation can be called sawdust and small chips. Typically, these lumber is used in combination, since the chips create a porous part of the insulation, and a layer of sawdust makes it more dense.

Ordinary sawdust can be a good insulation

This insulation has been used for a long time and has not lost its popularity, since its main advantage over modern heat insulators is 100% environmental friendliness and naturalness.

At correct styling shavings and sawdust on the floor, they perfectly insulate the ceiling, but in order for the material to be effective, it is necessary to accurately calculate the thickness of the layer being laid, depending on the winter temperatures of a particular region.

Sawdust and shavings can be used for insulation in its pure form, as well as in combination with other materials. Sometimes pellets are used as a heater, made from small sawdust, molded into granules.

The disadvantage of sawdust can be called their combustibility. Therefore, it is recommended to mix them with flame retardant compounds, clay or cement mortar. After such treatment, the insulation becomes completely non-combustible or slightly combustible.

Composition for fire and bioprotection of wood

If you plan to insulate the ceiling using sawdust, then all wooden floor elements should be prudently treated with fire retardants and separated from the chimney, and insulate electrical cables with special corrugated tubes.

In addition to sawdust and shavings, folk craftsmen have long used other natural heaters.

Insulation of the ceiling from the side of the room

Insulation of the ceiling from the side of the premises can be carried out in two ways:

• By gluing insulation boards to the surface and fixing them with the help of “fungi” fasteners.
• Fixing a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles on the ceiling at a distance of the width of the insulation material, and laying it between the guides by surprise.

But for any insulation option, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory processes, otherwise it will not be effective.

Ceiling preparation

The process of preparing the ceiling depends on what material it is made of, since each of them will require a separate approach.

If the house has a wooden ceiling, then the work is carried out as follows:

• The surface should be treated with an antiseptic primer with a flame retardant effect. The coating should be carried out very carefully, deepening the brush into the cracks between the boards, if they are found on the ceiling.

• The next step is to seal all the cracks. If they have small size, then they can be filled with wood putty. In the presence of large gaps, it is better to use mounting foam. After it hardens, the protruding excess should be carefully cut off with a knife, leveling it with a common plane.

The preparation of the concrete surface is somewhat different:

• If the ceiling is not new and has a decorative coating, then it must be removed. Qualitatively applied plaster does not need to be removed, but if it begins to peel off, then it must be cleaned up.
• Cracks found on the surface of concrete or plaster must be carefully expanded, then cleaned with soft brushes and treated with a primer.
• Small cracks can be repaired with cement mortar or sealant. For wide gaps, foam can also be used.
• Next, the hardened mass of foam is cut off and compared with the total surface.

Soil type "Concrete-contact"

• Then, the ceiling is covered with a primer, which is designed specifically for concrete surfaces- “concrete-contact” shows itself well in this regard. This primer is designed to increase adhesion between materials, and will enhance the adhesion of the surfaces of the insulation and the ceiling. Work on the installation of a heat insulator can only be carried out after the primer has completely dried.

Installation of insulation with glue

For this method of insulation, a material made in the form of plates and having a sufficiently high density is suitable - this basalt wool, foam or extruded polystyrene foam.

Can be used as an adhesive special composition cement-based, polyurethane foam or "liquid nails".

• Cement-based adhesive is made according to the recipe given on the package. Immediately you need to pay attention to the drying time of the composition - this criterion will directly affect how much should be kneaded. Quick-drying glue should not be kneaded too much.
• Further, using a trowel or spatula, the glue is applied pointwise to the insulation boards. You can also use notched trowel- the tightness of the fit will only benefit from this.

Application of cement adhesive

If mounting foam is selected, then it is applied to the surface of the insulation using a special gun.

Polymer-based adhesive is used more economically

• The next step is to press the insulating panel (plate) against the surface of the ceiling and hold it for a few seconds.

Attaching the panel to the ceiling

• Fixing one or two square meters insulation on glue, holes are drilled through the plates in the ceiling for fixings - "fungi". After that, the "fungi" are inserted into the hole, and a special plastic spacer nail is hammered into them.

Additional fixation with dowels-"fungi"

• When gaps are formed between the plates, they must also be filled with mounting foam.

Gaps are filled with mounting foam

• In the same way, mineral basalt wool is also installed.

Installation of mineral wool on glue is carried out in a similar manner

Thus, the surface is usually warmed under a stretch ceiling. If one of the types of expanded polystyrene is used, then it can be reinforced with a sickle mesh and plastered.

Installation of insulation between the rails of the crate

With the use of the crate, the insulation is installed if it is planned to further sheath the ceiling with plasterboard or one of the types of lining (wooden, plastic, etc.).

The work is carried out in stages, in the following sequence:

• The first step is marking the ceiling using a laser or conventional level, and straight lines are beaten off from the marks, along which the wooden or metal elements of the crate will be fixed. For the installation of mineral wool, they should be located at a distance equal to the width of the insulation minus 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other so that the panels (mats) stand apart between the two guides. If foam plastic is used for insulation, then the bars or profile should be installed at a distance equal to the width of the insulation boards.
• The wooden frame is fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be recessed into the wood. Fasteners are installed every 500÷600 mm.

First, a metal or wooden frame is mounted

• Metal profiles are fixed to the ceiling with the help of special direct hangers, which allow, if necessary, to lower the crate to the desired distance from the ceiling. This gap must be completely filled with insulation.
• The next step is the installation of insulation. It is installed between wooden blocks by surprise

Laying mineral wool panels

• Mineral wool straightens and holds well in place, but it can still be additionally fixed with bent shelves of direct hangers.

Styrofoam panels between frame rails

• The foam must be mounted carefully, otherwise, if the plate has a small thickness, it may break. If, after installation, gaps have formed between the frame elements and the foam, they must be filled with mounting foam.
• From above, the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier film. It is attached to a wooden frame with a stapler and staples, and on metal profiles - using double-sided tape.

The insulation layer must be covered with a vapor barrier film

• Having finished working with a vapor barrier membrane, the ceiling surface is sheathed drywall sheets or lining.

At the end, the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard or drywall

• Drywall is attached to the rails with the help of special self-tapping screws, which are screwed in in increments of 150 ÷ ​​170 mm.
• The seams between the sheets of drywall are reinforced with sickle mesh and finished with gypsum-based putty. In addition, all the holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws are smeared with the composition. After the joints have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling must be puttied. Only then can the finishing material be applied.

Ceiling insulation from the attic

This is what an uninsulated attic floor usually looks like.

All of the above materials are suitable for insulating the ceiling from the attic side, but the technology for their installation is different.

• For example, insulation produced in mats, rolls and slabs is mounted according to the same principle - they fit tightly between floor beams.
• Ecowool and polyurethane foam are sprayed on the surface, forming a continuous coating.
• Sawdust and expanded clay are poured onto the prepared surface, and distributed over it in even layers.

The base for insulation is also prepared in different ways using modern materials or, in order to save money, using old methods.

Installation of slabs or insulation mats

Insulation can be laid in one or more layers. There are several schemes for mounting the material on a hemmed or rolling ceiling.

In a hemmed ceiling, sheathing made of boards, plywood or lining is fixed directly to the floor beams from the side of the rooms of the house, and the flooring of the rolling ceiling is laid on cranial bars fixed on the same floor beams.

In each of the above schemes, you can see that the inter-beam space is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, but it is laid on the floor in different ways.

Attic floor insulation and vapor barrier schemes

• When installing a false ceiling, the vapor barrier membrane is covered from the side of the premises and fixed with brackets to the floor beams before the ceiling covering itself is mounted on them. In the diagram, this option is represented under the letter "c".
• If the design of the rolling ceiling is chosen (in the diagram - under the letter "a"), then the vapor barrier is laid on boards or plywood fixed to the cranial bars.

Installed vapor barrier membrane

When mineral wool in mats or rolls is used for thermal insulation, it is very important to lay them correctly. If the installation is carried out incorrectly, then the effect of insulation will not be at all or it will be significantly reduced, so you need to take into account some points:

Typical mistakes when laying mineral wool

• There should be no gaps between the insulation mats and the floor beams, as they will become bridges for the release of heat.
• The width of the insulation should not be much larger than the distance between the beams, otherwise it will bend, and heat will also escape into the atmosphere through the cracks that have arisen.
• The thermal insulation material must adhere tightly to the vapor barrier membrane and floor beams.
• If it is planned to lay two layers of insulation, and the space between the beams is completely filled with one, then the floor beams are built up. Bars are stuffed on top of them desired height. The design of this insulation option is shown in the above diagram under the letter "g".
• When installing insulation under a “cold” roof, the insulation is covered from above with a waterproofing material that will protect the material from high humidity and from cold air currents. The waterproofing sheets, like the vapor barrier membrane, are overlapped, and their joints are glued with adhesive tape.
• The next step, on top of the waterproofing, counter rails 30 ÷ 40 mm high are stuffed onto the floor beams, they will create a ventilation gap between the membrane and the wooden flooring of the attic floor.

The scheme of the insulation "pie" of the floor

• The last step when insulating the ceiling from the side of the attic using this technology, flooring made of boards or plywood is fixed to the counter rails.
• When used as a foam insulation, work is carried out according to the same principle. However, this material does not have the same flexibility as mineral wool, so gaps can form between floor beams and slabs, which must be filled with mounting foam.

Spraying insulation material

Insulation by spraying is carried out with polyurethane foam and ecowool. For this type of work, special equipment is needed, so the insulation process will be expensive, but it will pay off in just one or two years, since the efficiency of these materials is quite high.

When using polyurethane foam, a vapor barrier membrane is not needed, since the material is moisture resistant, it perfectly fills large and small gaps between the flooring and floor beams. Does not require this insulation and shelter waterproofing film, as polyurethane foam forms a sealed seamless coating on the surface.

Ceiling insulated with polyurethane foam

Before applying ecowool, the vapor barrier film is laid in the same way as for mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The film is necessary, since the material consists of small fibers that can penetrate through the gaps between the boards into the living quarters.

Since dry cotton is mixed with the adhesive, it has a surface vapor barrier film good adhesion. Ecowool forms a dense, and at the same time porous seamless coating of the desired thickness.

Filling the eco-wool cavity between the rough and finished floor of the attic

There is another way to install this heater. For example, the attic floor is covered with a plank floor, and the insulation has not been done on time. In this case, the situation can be corrected by filling the space between the hemmed or rolling flooring and the attic floor with ecowool. To do this, several floor boards are dismantled, and a pipe is lowered into this gap, through which ecowool will flow into this space. This procedure is carried out between all floor beams. In this case, dry material is used, without adhesive treatment.

Sometimes the space under the laid waterproofing film is also filled in a dry way. An incision is made in it, through which the cavities are filled with insulation, and after completion, the incisions are sealed with construction tape.

Blowing ecowool under the film

You can lay ecowool manually. It is poured onto a vapor barrier film and distributed between the floor beams. Having poured a layer of approximately 100 mm, it is carefully compacted or rolled with a special roller. Then the next layer of fibers is poured and compacted again. Thus, the insulation layer rises to the level of the height of the floor beams.

When using ecowool for insulation under a “cold” roof, waterproofing is also laid on top of the laid layer. The film is overlapped and must form an airtight coating so that the material does not absorb moisture from the cold air.

Bulk insulation

Bulk materials include expanded clay, sawdust, pellets, vermiculite, etc. These heaters are similar in laying, only the filling of sawdust materials is somewhat different.

Backfilling expanded clay is not difficult. It crumbles and is distributed between the beams on a pre-laid and fixed vapor barrier film. The material does not require waterproofing, as it does not absorb moisture, however, it can be covered with a windproof membrane to completely block the exit of warm air from the rooms and prevent the penetration of cold from the outside.

Floor insulated with expanded clay

From above, expanded clay is covered with plywood or boards, which are attached to floor beams or counter rails. Sometimes they prefer not to cover the embankment with any coating - in this case, nothing will happen to expanded clay due to its moisture resistance, but the warming effect will still be reduced, especially if coarse-grained material is selected.

Under this insulation, the surface can be prepared in different ways.

Surface prepared for insulation with sawdust

• Laying on the surface and fixing the glassine.
• Having sealed all the cracks with mounting foam, then cutting it off and laying ordinary corrugated cardboard, which in itself is a heater and allows all layers of insulation to “breathe”.
• You can use old recipes and use clay mixed with lime to seal cracks. Lime in this case will play the role of a plasticizer and antiseptic, and clay perfectly seals the space between the beams.
• Sometimes a vapor barrier film is used for flooring.
• In some cases, it is also used waterproofing material- ruberoid.

Each of the options is acceptable, but some of them help save a certain amount. For example, decking cardboard can be obtained for free using boxes from the store. Lime and clay are also inexpensive, but preparation using them will take longer.

Thermal insulation with the help of this natural material occurs after its careful preparation, otherwise the insulation will not last for a long time, as it absorbs moisture well, and when it dries out it becomes a fire hazard. Sawdust can be prepared in several ways, and their laying is almost the same, with a small but important difference.

In this case, the material is laid in its pure form, but after appropriate treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics. If the surface for the insulation has already been prepared, then it can be mixed with protective agents right on the spot. In this case, do not pour out a large amount of material, as it will be difficult to mix it. For processing, you can use a spray gun - so the tool will be used much more economically.

Sawdust can be simply scattered and distributed between floor beams

Laying the insulation in layers, and processing each of the layers, it will be easier to compact it.

If sawdust is used in combination with chips, then the chips are laid, processed and compacted with the first layer, its layer should be about 100 mm.

Small sawdust is poured on top of it, which also needs to be processed and compacted - this process is best done using a manual roller.

The "minus" of this option is that such layers will surely be chosen by rodents over time, arranging holes in them. Therefore, in order to avoid such a neighborhood, sawdust is often mixed not only with the above compounds, but also with lime, which mice cannot tolerate. For this, 5 parts of sawdust and 1 part of lime are taken, that is, for five bags of sawdust, one bag of lime.

Processed and dried sawdust should be mixed with lime. Work is done with a shovel or a regular hoe.

The finished composition is laid out on the prepared surface and compacted. Waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then wooden flooring.

In this variant, sawdust can be mixed with dry cement, clay or lime. Materials are taken in proportions of 10: 1, that is, for ten bags of sawdust, one bag of one of the selected compositions is required.

Preparation of sawdust-cement mixture

All components are mixed in a dry form, then water is added to them in small portions, a homogeneous mixture is kneaded, which should not release water when the lump is compressed in a fist.

The finished mixture is laid on an attic floor previously prepared with a waterproofing film. For waterproofing, the usual polyethylene film high density (thickness not less than 200 microns). The surface of the laid mixture is leveled by the rule, and floor beams serve as beacons for the support of the rule.

A mixture of sawdust with clay was chosen as a heater

The laid out mass is carefully tamped, and when it dries, a reliable sawdust-cement slab is obtained. On top of it, you can immediately lay the attic floor.

It should be noted that sometimes gypsum is used instead of clay and cement in this composition, but it is not very convenient in this work, as it sets and hardens quickly, so you need to work very quickly, kneading the solution in small portions. This composition is prepared in proportions of 9: 1, for one part of gypsum, 9 parts of sawdust or shavings are taken.

What material and installation option to choose for ceiling insulation - each owner decides for himself, focusing on his physical and financial capabilities. Of course, it is best to choose the most pure natural materials that will not cause allergic reactions in households and create a reliable barrier to the heat accumulated in the premises.

And one more note - to create a truly good insulation, it is necessary to isolate not only the ceiling, but also the roof slopes. But this is the subject of a separate discussion.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof - several options

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof in order to create comfortable living conditions in the house? There are several technologies available.

Non-insulated pitched roofing is historically the most common type of low-rise construction in Europe. Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof in countries with cold winters has always been used. Unlike wooden, brick and adobe walls, which were considered sufficient protection from the cold and uninvited guests, the ceilings were covered with natural materials low density, which created a barrier to leakage of warm air into the attic. Since then, technology has revolutionized our understanding of housing construction, but the cold under-roof space scheme remains very popular. We have analyzed current technologies and prepared answers to the most common questions related to this topic in this review.

It is said that a correctly asked question contains 50% of the answer. Knowing the physics of the processes occurring in the cold under-roof space, one can single out the most important criteria for choosing thermal insulation and evaluate all technologies based on them. The attic in buildings of this type is traditionally designed taking into account the possibility of cold ventilation. Both in summer and winter, air flows are directed upward.

To maintain this movement, two natural outlets are made: for the flow going between the tiles and the waterproofing, the joint between the membranes opens under the roof ridge, and for the heat rising from the ceiling, dormer windows. Our ancestors empirically found out that it is impossible to hermetically clog a space that is not heated. Excess moisture should evaporate freely from all house structures.

It should be noted that all traditional building materials have two characteristic properties: high vapor permeability and increased capillary activity. The latter means that moisture moves inside the structure in a certain direction due to surface tension forces. However, since then, many materials have appeared that are completely different in physical properties from clay, brick and wood. It is logical that the issue of insulation can be solved for them differently.

So, in order to figure out how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof, consider the main technologies in terms of vapor permeability and capillary activity:

• Vapor permeable fillings. From sawdust, peat, needles, sand, straw used for centuries - to expanded clay granulate, which appeared in the 20th century and more modern ecowool
• Vapor permeable fiber materials.
• Plate heat insulators with low or zero moisture saturation. These are expanded polystyrenes (polystyrene and EPS), as well as slab foam glass.
• Hydrophobic seamless (solid) insulation. These include sprayed polyurethane foam.

Taking into account the structural features of ceiling slabs is equally important for any insulation technology. Strength elements that perceive bending loads are:

• Wooden beams. In the vast majority of low-rise private residential buildings.
• Concrete plates. In second place in terms of prevalence after wooden beams.
• Steel farms. They are used relatively rarely. However, due to the development of modular construction from thin-walled profiles, the popularity of this variant of ceilings is growing.

In the case of beams and trusses, the thermal insulation layer can be located in one of four possible positions: from the inside of the room on a false ceiling, from the side of the attic on the flooring, between the beams (trusses) over the false ceiling, or between them, but below the flooring.

The use of bulk insulation in a house with a cold roof

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof if you have access to free or cheap natural raw materials such as needles or peat, or if there is excess expanded clay or sawdust left from production or construction? Of course, you should take advantage of such a life bonus. Despite the fact that these options are outdated and require very large backfill thicknesses, nothing prevents this method from being used when it comes to a cold attic.

In this case, even if the profile of the floor beams is not enough to form "pockets" with a depth of 30 - 40 cm, they can be increased wooden planks. After all, reducing the space in the non-residential under-roof space does not affect anything.

Under the backfill, it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier film, but it is not recommended to cover it with anything on top. It is better to provide high-quality waterproofing of the roof. The backfill must be well ventilated.

Features of the use of heat-insulating wool

Over the past year and a half, new fiber insulation has been introduced into practice, in particular, construction synthetic winterizer. In this regard, today it is already relevant to single out a whole group of thermal insulators that combine mineral wool, synthetic winterizers and others. synthetic materials, on such key features as high vapor permeability and low capillary activity.

Why building wool is far from the best solution for internal insulation of the attic floor? The fact is that when they are facing the surface from the side of the room, the dew point shifts in the direction of the finishing ceiling coating. Condensation begins to take over the insulation.

The vapor barrier membrane does not solve the problem of moistening mineral wool or synthetic winterizer, if on the other side of the mats it is not possible to ensure their effective ventilation. Therefore, materials of this type are best used from the side of the attic with good natural air exchange.

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool, glass wool or building padding polyester from the side of the attic is carried out with the obligatory observance of the sequence of layers:

1. Vapor barrier membrane. It is laid on top of a rigid base of the floor, if flooring is made along the beams, or mounted on the lower ends of the beams, if the insulation is supposed to be installed between them.
2. Thermal insulation.
3. waterproofing layer. If the roof has its own high-quality waterproofing, it is allowed to limit itself to a wind barrier.

Ventilation gaps between these three layers are not needed. It is important to observe only free access of air to the surface of the wind or waterproofing.

Contact with communications

What should I do if a ventilation duct or chimney passes through a wooden beam ceiling? If a beam is located in the path of a vertically oriented main, it is cut, and the load is transferred by transverse elements to adjacent beams. In this case, the distance from the outer surface to the strapping of the jumpers should be at least 100 mm.

The chimney is lined with expanded polystyrene plates 40 - 50 mm thick not only in the intersection area, but also for the entire length of the structure's exit from the roof. The membranes are tucked up (vapor barrier - down, hydrobarrier - up), and covered with bitumen tape for a tight fit to the polystyrene pipe sleeve. The places of the gates are then crimped with a strapping of wooden bars using dowels passing into the walls of the chimney.

The same should be done with ventilation ducts with one exception: in most cases they are not sleeved. Electrical cables are attracted by clamps to the beams, and in the places of passage through the membranes, the places where the films are turned up are sealed with foil tape and fixed with plastic clamps.

Vapor-proof board materials for insulation of attic floors

If we line the draft ceiling from below with vapor-tight plates, then four questions disappear at once: moisture condensation in the thickness of the insulation, protecting it with high-diffusion membranes, providing ventilation and protection from above from moisture from the roof or dew falling from the air attic space.

On the other hand, there is a problem of protecting wooden beams from waterlogging at the points of contact with vapor-tight insulation. Therefore, we will consider the specifics of the use of extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and foam glass, depending on power structure floors.

Video: Overview of popular floor insulation

Concrete slabs or steel trusses

EPPS insulation from the inside requires sealing joints

Concrete is the simplest case. EPPS is mounted to it with glue from below or from above, from the side of the cold attic. No additional measures to ensure insulation or safety of materials need to be taken. The only thing, as in all other cases, is to take care of the sealing of the joints between the plates and at the joints of the ceiling with the walls. If the walls in the room are lined with insulating material from the inside, you should also choose the internal placement of the insulation on the ceiling to eliminate possible cold bridges. At outer insulation walls, the insulation of the EPPS ceiling is made both from above and from below, depending on the ease of installation, the way the attic space is used and other minor factors.

Styrofoam and foam glass are best used for outdoor work. Even high-density foam grades (PSB-S 35 and PSB-S 50) are distinguished by the presence of pores, which, on the one hand, leads to the emission of a small amount of styrene, and on the other hand, to some moisture saturation. Therefore, the plates of this material are mounted on glue from the side of the attic space, and on top they are covered with a waterproofing film that is overlapped with sealing of the joints.

Insulation of the ceiling with foam glass is carried out from the side of the attic

Foam glass insulation of the ceiling with a cold attic is also performed with outer side but for other reasons. Firstly, these plates are much heavier, and secondly, it is more convenient and cheaper to seal the joints between them - to use bituminous mastic which is not suitable for interior work for environmental reasons.

All of the above also applies to the insulation of floors with these materials, which have a power base in the form of steel structures with decking from OSB boards or boards.

wooden beams

From the inside, decoratively painted beams, and a layer of insulation from the side of the attic

Thermal insulation in beam ceilings usually fit into the caissons between the beams. If you do not ensure tight contact of the XPS (using foam adhesive) or foam with wood and do not allow the beams to evaporate excess moisture, this will lead to their rapid waterlogging. Therefore, in without fail on the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane should be installed, and on the side of the cold attic, a hydrobarrier should be installed that allows moisture to pass from bottom to top. At the same time, the space above the hydrobarrier must be free for effective ventilation. No flooring in the attic with this method of insulation is unacceptable. Therefore, this situation is not applicable if it is intended to use the attic for household needs.

If the design of the room allows the appearance of open ceiling beams, it is more expedient to first mount the boardwalk on top of the hardwood floor, and already install a layer on top of it plate insulation. Then, from below, the boards between the beams can be covered with OSB, plywood or drywall, followed by puttying and painting. This approach combines modern energy efficiency requirements with Provence style and other country design trends.

At the same time, the tree remains open on three sides, which significantly increases its service life.

polyurethane foam insulation

For environmental reasons, the technology is recommended for outdoor use only. If the ceiling with wooden beams is insulated, it is best to install a flooring on top of them and spray polyurethane foam on this surface. “Wrapping up” a tree in a PPU blanket is not the most good idea, as is the case with vapor-tight boards. But the advantages of PPU are indisputable: the material is a champion in energy efficiency.

How to determine the required ceiling insulation thickness

All you need to do is to determine the desired indoor temperature and make a list with all the building materials of your house with their thicknesses. Next, open any arbitrary online calculator for thermal construction calculations and fill in your data and region of residence in the input field. However, one should not take the received recommendation as a dogma. Reducing the layer thickness in comparison with the recommended one is quite acceptable. You just need to be aware that savings on thermal insulation are only a deferral of payments that will definitely happen in the form of energy overruns on heating and air conditioning.

Video: theory and practice of floor insulation from the side of a cold heart

Summary

In every situation, you should strive to use all its advantages. The cold under-roof space is an intensive ventilation of the ceiling from the outside. Therefore, the use of vapor-permeable insulation materials from the attic side should be considered as one of the most acceptable, especially if the ceilings are made of wooden beams.

Heating modern buildings performed by gas or electric equipment. Buildings with periodic residence (cottage, garden house, country cottage). Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof allows you to reduce heat loss and create optimal microclimate in the premises.

The choice of materials for thermal insulation of a cold roof

The construction market offers an extensive selection of materials for thermal insulation. However, not every insulation is designed for laying in the attic space with a cold roof. In order to profitability of the planned insulation, you should choose the right heat insulator. First of all, such materials are selected with resistance to moisture, low thermal conductivity and compliance with SNiP.

Often for thermal insulation works choose materials such as:

This insulation refers to bulk-type heat insulators obtained by firing shale. Advantages - light weight, porous structure, high thermal insulation and resistance to water.

The material is sold in the form of a fibrous type of mineral-based insulation. Standard release form - mats, plates, rolls. It is this material that is recognized as the best option for ceiling insulation. However, the price tag for a heat insulator starts at 950 rubles. per roll. Advantages - excellent heat retention, sound insulation. The only negative is heavy weight, so when choosing this material, you should take into account the load on the truss system.

It is made from expanded polystyrene foam, but in the final version of this substance no more than 2-3% remains in the composition. Thus, more than 95% of the foam are air cells. Due to this, light weight and excellent thermal insulation performance are achieved. Additional advantages include - resistance to moisture and preservation of properties in contact with water. Installation of polystyrene foam boards is easy, i.e. you can do it by hand. To do this, the plates are cut to the required width, laid on the floor of the attic between the lags and fixed.

Builders pay attention to the importance of insulating the floor located in the attic space under a cold roof. Also important is the laying of steam and waterproofing.

The specifics of the roof with a cold "pie"

The structure of the attic floor pie has a classic scheme, consisting of layer-by-layer mounting of materials in such an order as:

• waterproofing film;
• thermal insulation layer;
• roofing materials.

This type of construction is relevant for households, where the space under the attic is non-residential, respectively, it is not heated in winter. The essence of a cold roof is a rafter system, on top of which a PVC film for waterproofing and roof materials are laid.

The expediency of this type of roof is due to its light weight, low construction costs and easy installation than in the construction of a warm type of roof. In view of this, a cold roof is a practical and budgetary option for building a country house or cottage.

If there are no radiators in the attic, then the air will act as a buffer to reduce heat loss. According to the principle of convection, in which warm air rises, at the bottom it will be subject to cooling. The result of this process is the internal heating of the slopes, which excludes the formation of ice.

In order to preserve heat, as well as to reduce the financial costs of heating, work is underway to lay ceiling insulation for a cold attic.

Heat insulators are chosen, as a rule, of two types - fibrous or backfill. Installation of such materials is simple, efficient and effective. Since the flow of hot air always tends to rise, and the insulated attic will not cool it, thus creating an almost identical temperature throughout the house.

The technological process of laying insulation

Carrying out work on the insulation of the house from the side of the second floor with a cold roof is carried out with expanded clay or mineral wool. Only in some cases (dacha, garden house) use inexpensive foam.

Installation of expanded clay heat insulator

For thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic with expanded clay, a PVC film for vapor barrier is laid on the floors. It is fixed with a construction stapler.

PVC film is laid with an overlap of 15-20 cm on the wall and adjacent areas of waterproofing. As a warning of gaps, the sections are fixed with adhesive tape.

The next step - expanded clay is poured on top of the vapor barrier material. The thickness of the insulation varies from 15 to 30 cm. When planning the arrangement of a finishing screed, the entire space between the lags must be filled with expanded clay heat insulator.

The final stage is the arrangement of the screed from sand-cement mixture. The thickness of the consistency should be from 50 mm. The advantage of this method of insulation is fire and injury safety during further operation, as well as environmental friendliness.

The procedure for laying mineral wool from the side of a cold attic

When using mineral wool, vapor barrier and waterproofing should be laid first. In this version of insulation, you can not save on the quality of materials, because. if mineral wool is not properly protected, water can get on it, as a result of which it will lose more than 60% of its qualities.

Installation of mineral wool is carried out between the logs on the floor of the attic. Subsequently, the heat insulator is closed with a fine finish. If the floors are made of concrete, then the first step is to level the plane. Then the floor is covered with a film and the installation of plates is carried out. Finish coat done with plywood or wooden board. Next, the screed of the plates is equipped.

To insulate the attic in a wooden house, the cells between the beams should be covered with a pro-insulator. Then the film is overlapped with an overlap on the wall up to 250 mm. The joints are reinforced with construction tape.

Conclusion

The types of heaters and installation methods discussed in the article are common. However, the list of heat insulators for cold roof- much wider. Also in construction hypermarkets you can find special materials for country houses of high quality.

When choosing a material for attic thermal insulation, experts recommend paying attention to the nuances of construction. It should also be remembered that in a wooden house you should not use hermetic heaters, such as Penofol or Penoplex, because. they are designed for use in concrete houses.