What kind of floor can be made in a wooden house. How to make a floor in a private house - installation instructions. Various types of bulk materials are used

Today, natural materials are at the peak of popularity. A special place is occupied by wood, which is an environmentally friendly building element and is perfect for arranging floors. Very often you can find a wooden floor in the country. Despite the fact that laying the floor is the most important moment in construction and repair, you can refuse the services of specialists and make the floor in a private house with your own hands. But for this you need to make every effort and attention. The floor must turn out to be reliable, strong and durable, so it is worth taking seriously the study of flooring technology.

Wooden floor cake on logs. Highlights: vapor and waterproofing, insulation and ventilation gap

Usually, it is to the floor that special requirements are put forward, since this part of the room in a private house is subjected to the greatest tests. Mechanical stress, chemical attack and a high degree of abrasion are the reasons that force a number of rules to be followed:

A certain level of humidity. It should be about 12%. The durability of the wooden floor will depend on this indicator. Due to the observance of moisture standards, deformation of the wood can be avoided.
No external defects. Before buying material for a wooden floor, you should carefully inspect it. There should be no cracks, chips or other defects. Otherwise, sooner or later it will be necessary to repair or completely change the defective boards.
Mandatory wood treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the life of wood materials and increase their fire resistance.
High quality wood. You should not save on wooden floors in a private house and it is best to choose hard conifers such as pine, fir, cedar, larch, etc., although ash and oak are considered the most durable.

If we talk about the most suitable time for installing a wooden floor, then this is the end of the heating season. During this period, you can observe the optimal humidity of the air, and the likelihood of the tree absorbing a large amount of moisture is minimal. But if the wooden floor still has to be installed in the summer, then it is worth guessing the moment when it will be dry and sunny outside for at least two weeks.

Arrangement of a wooden floor

The following materials can be used to equip the floors in the house:

Unedged board;
Sheet device (plywood, chipboard, etc.);
Glued board;
Folded board.

The first two options are ideal for rough wood flooring. In this case, further finishing of the floor with a topcoat is provided. But the glue bar and the folded board can be used as a finishing structure. The finished floor is usually further varnished or painted. Ideally, the board will be solid across the entire width of the room.

Preparatory work before laying

Before carrying out the installation and choosing the method of installation, it is recommended to assess the condition of the soil. For example, in some areas, logs can be laid directly on the ground, but first waterproofing under them. It is such a device that allows the wooden floor to serve for more than a dozen years. In some cases, it is better to additionally use rubble and sand, but sometimes even this is not enough. So, a video on the topic:

Since there are no specific instructions on how to match the space and installation methods, it is best to use the best option, which is suitable for all conditions, even for places with high humidity.

And to this day, the most win-win option is a wooden floor in a private house on or. Such a floor can act as a rigid base or waterproofing. But the main point will still be soil planning. To be able to regulate the consumption of building materials, the soil is well compacted. And already on the compacted soil, you can fill up sand with a thickness of 20 mm or more. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, which can be cellophane or roofing material.

Diagram of the device of a wooden floor on the ground on logs (with heaving soil)

Methods for laying a wooden floor

The installation of a wooden floor can only be started after the frame device of posts and beams is finally ready. A layer of roofing material is laid on the posts, which serves as a good waterproofing. Beams are installed on the waterproofing layer, and logs are fixed to the beams for additional strength. It's good when the width of the room corresponds to the length of the logs, but if you have to connect the logs, it is better that the joints are right on the support posts, and they are fastened with self-tapping screws.

The very device of the wooden floor can be either single or double. Single floors are not very durable and are usually used in summer cottages. Such a floor does not withstand weather fluctuations and is not intended for year-round use. To make you feel comfortable in winter, it is recommended to build double. It will take a lot of time and the right material. But the extra effort is worth it as it adds strength and reliability. For this, a list of works is performed in a certain sequence:

Install lags;
Lay moisture-resistant plywood between them, and lay insulation on top;
Lay the rough base of the floor on the logs.

Double Board Floor Pie

To create a subfloor, low-grade boards are suitable, the thickness of which is 15-50 mm. These boards, carefully processed, fit together. Then the finished boards are attached to the logs with self-tapping screws.

Boards are laid 15-20 mm from the wall. This promotes ventilation and prevents the floor from swelling during the seasonal deformation of the tree. Waterproofing is carried out using a polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns, and additional thermal insulation is made of foamed polyethylene. The film is overlapped, the edges are glued together with adhesive tape. On the walls, you need to make an overlap of 20 cm and stick it on tape. After that, the finishing floor and topcoat are laid.

For the flooring of the finished floor, either an array is used. Plywood is placed on top of the insulating layer and fixed with self-tapping screws.

It has an attractive appearance, it is easy to install, and besides, it is easy to operate. The advantage of solid wood flooring is that it is possible to apply varnish or paint to the floor and thus do without additional costs for finishing materials. Solid board is produced in two versions: regular and grooved. The difference between them is in the installation method. The tongue-and-groove board is much easier to install. However, before installation, it must lie in the room for three days.

How to lay an array with your own hands?

The solid board is laid on plywood sheets. The base can be either a concrete floor or a wooden floor on logs

You need to measure 15 mm from the walls to create a ventilation gap and in case of seasonal deformations.
The finished floor boards must be laid so that they are located across the subfloor boards. The first row is placed with a spike against the wall and screwed on with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to tighten the screws so that they are covered with a plinth near the wall. On the second side, the screws are screwed into the groove at an angle of 45 °.
A wooden spacer is placed in the gap between the board and the wall. If the size of the room is greater than the length of the floorboards, then the boards are laid out "at random". This will make the floor more durable.
The second and subsequent rows of boards are laid with a spike in the groove of the previous row, sealed with a mallet and attached to the screws on the other side into the groove. If you want the wood floor to last as long as possible, you need to lay the boards in such a way that the growth rings are opposite each other.

It is being laid "at random." A massive parquet board can also be used as a finishing floor. In fact, this is the same grooved solid board, only shorter. Its installation is somewhat different:

Can be fixed on self-tapping screws only from the side of the thorn.
Installation is carried out only "razdrazhd".
If the base is made of plywood, then it is better to glue the parquet board first, and then additionally fix it with self-tapping screws.
If you lay the board diagonally, the room will visually look larger.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly material that requires constant care. To make wood floors in your home last as long as possible, take care of protecting the material in advance. Laying wooden floors is a painstaking, difficult job, however, following the instructions and advice of professionals, any beginner with his own hands can make a private house or summer cottage beautiful, warm and cozy. Leave your opinion about the article or share your experience in the comments!

It's no secret that the convenience of living in a house largely depends on high-quality floors. The installation of the basement floor is carried out using various materials: wood, concrete, special mixtures using the "self-leveling floor" technology. The floors in a private house must be flat, durable, keep warm and have aesthetic qualities.

Types of floors

The question of what to make the floor of the house from often arises when building your own home. Therefore, it becomes necessary to study in detail the varieties of floors, taking into account their advantages and disadvantages.

Wood covering

Wooden floors look impressive, they meet environmental requirements, combine practicality and a long service life, and allow repairs as needed.

Installation of a wooden floor implies the presence of the following materials: timber at least 15 cm thick, edged boards at least 2.5 cm thick, waterproofing and vapor barrier elements, insulation. Beams and boards must be taken dry, their moisture content should not exceed 12%.

A polyethylene film or roofing felt is suitable as waterproofing. There are a lot of vapor barrier membranes on the market. Insulation can be mineral wool slabs, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay. You will also need nails and screws, metal corners, a hammer and a screwdriver.

Installation of a wooden covering goes through several stages. The first thing to do is to carefully level the ground, which then creates a sand cushion. It is necessary to lay waterproofing on it. If roofing material is used, then the overlap between the strips is at least 15 cm.

Further along the perimeter of the house, a strapping bar is installed, to which logs are attached with the help of metal corners. All bars are pre-treated with protective compounds. The distance between the lags should be maintained equal to the width of the insulation. If mineral wool slabs are used, then they are installed by surprise. This must be taken into account when installing the lag.

Then a vapor barrier membrane is overlapped over the lag and insulation, the joints of which are glued with special tape. The final stage involves the installation of boards. It is also recommended to treat them with protective compounds. The boards themselves should be nailed as tightly as possible to each other.

Note! Kitchen in a private house - 100 photos of design and layout ideas

When the wood floor is ready, it can be varnished, or linoleum can be laid on it.

Concrete floors

Most often, concrete floors in a private house are arranged in utility rooms, but this option is also possible in residential areas. The floor is poured according to the following scheme.

If there is a need, a small pit 10 cm deep is pre-dug in the area of the future pouring. Then a sand pillow is made with a thickness of at least 5 cm, which is carefully rammed. A reinforcing mesh is laid out, beacons are set up, along which it will be possible to monitor the evenness of the surface.

The concrete will gain its nominal strength in 28 days, after which it will be possible to proceed with the finishing. Tile or linoleum on a thick base are options for such a finish.

Linoleum is used in living rooms, tiles are laid in the hallway, bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen. Linoleum is glued to concrete with special mastics, or it simply lies free, fixed on the walls with a plinth. A special glue is used for laying the tiles.

Self-leveling coating

For the device of such a floor in a private house, special mixtures are used, which are independently leveled after their application. This is one of the most popular flooring methods in country houses. The cost of a self-leveling floor directly depends on the manufacturer and brand of the mixture.

In addition, there are floor options with a pattern or color, which also affects the price. The base of self-leveling floors is a concrete screed, the surface of which is treated with special primers to improve adhesion. Using a drill with a special nozzle, the bulk mixture is diluted with water. The solution is applied to the primed substrate in small portions and rolled with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.

For a better set of strength, the finished floor is covered with plastic wrap, if this is specified in the instructions for the mixture. After the mortar has completely hardened, it can be coated with polyurethane varnish to give it a shine.

The coating will be ready for comprehensive use in a week, and you can move on it already 12 hours after pouring. The peculiarity of this floor is that it is often used as the main floor. But you can also lay carpet on top, lay parquet or laminate.

If there is a financial opportunity and the floors are made in a residential area, then it is best to use three-dimensional or decorative self-leveling floors. To do this, you need to think about what kind of drawing will be located on the floor, and then contact a company specializing in these issues. She will make a photo of the floor in the house, making a printout on a banner of the required size. Subsequently, using a special technology, this banner will be installed on the floor, making the room stylistically very attractive.

Underfloor heating technology

The most convenient and practical option is to install a warm floor in a private house. There are floors with water and electrical systems. Electric floors are popular in small spaces in apartments or country houses. The main prerequisite for the installation of electric floors is the availability of a power supply line capable of operating under heavy load.

An electric underfloor heating system has only the disadvantage that it consumes more electricity.

In the case of floor heating in large rooms, which, moreover, do not have central heating, it makes sense to use water floors, since they can significantly save energy.

The water floor as a heat source has water heated by the boiler circulating through pipes installed in the floor. The role of heating elements is assigned to metal-plastic pipes (there are options for using plastic pipes). They are laid on the subfloor and through a distribution mechanism are connected to the supply and return manifolds. The water circulating in the pipes has a temperature of + 35-45 ° С. Higher temperatures would make the floor uncomfortable, and subsequently lead to its destruction.

The water heating system has several advantages:

heating costs are reduced due to the low temperature of the coolant;
as an independent unit makes it possible to effectively use the living space (in the absence of radiators);
economical compared to electric underfloor heating, despite high installation costs

What kind of floors to make in a private house in each case is always decided on an individual basis. In this case, it is necessary to measure the purpose of the floors, their price and the quality of the materials used. Knowing the subtleties of all the options, the advantages and disadvantages of one or another type of flooring, you can eventually achieve a unique result, while getting the best floors for yourself.

Photos of floors in a private house

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises first of all, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. The device of floors in a private house can be carried out in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

Wood has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
Concrete floors are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with wooden floors.
Screed or floating floors were not so popular with home owners in the past, but recently, many are increasingly turning to this option, since it is simple to install, and it can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, therefore it is necessarily included in the plan of general arrangement works.

Wooden floors can be made in different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is only possible in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are subdivided into one-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Support pillar floors

The floors on the support pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coating. The lag system, arranged only on the support pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on support pillars

The floors according to this system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the holes must be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
At the bottom of the dug holes, crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured, then filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, so this process must be carried out conscientiously.
Red brick pillars are laid on the rammed pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm.
On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, on which the floor beams will subsequently be fixed.
It should be noted that if a building or a room has a small area, then support pillars can be arranged only along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case, massive beams must be laid on them.
After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their top. Better if it is three to four layers of roofing material.
Holes are drilled in the beams through which the fastening pins will pass.
Beams from a bar or log are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on pins and set in level, leveling with the help of wooden lining boards.When the base of the floor is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with the help of nails, and the bars themselves must also be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the pins are too high, it is cut off with a sander.
It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, in a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and will additionally insulate the floors.
In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all the conditions have been created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

Rough floor

A sub-floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are coated with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, you can fill in the cells with insulation, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the lower boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also closed on top with a vapor barrier, attached to the beams using a stapler and brackets.

Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a clear example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

The soil is underground, it is necessary to compact it well, and arrange on it a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of the middle fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, and then compact it again.
Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the tamped pillow. If desired, you can lay a reinforcing mesh under it, for greater strength. The waterproofing must extend to the walls by at least 10 centimeters.
On the waterproofing, bricks or concrete blocks are placed on the mortar, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed so that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (standard width of the insulation).
The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene of 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
Wooden beams are installed on bricks, or better - on concrete blocks, they are leveled, and fixed with a corner.
Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
On top of the insulation, cash yeah fix the vapor barrier film.
Then a floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into the side of it.
The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on a concrete screed

When installing the floor on the concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if it is necessary to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the above-described subfloor, otherwise it will be very cold.

First, a preliminary marking of the location of the lags is made on the concrete pavement. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account the future insulation. Marking is done by beating off the line with color.
Further, on the broken lines, marks are made at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the surface of the concrete, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
Nuts are tightened on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
The next stages are the construction of the subfloor, insulation and flooring of the clean floor.

Fastening the lag directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself, having the right tools.

Stripes are beaten off on the concrete pavement, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
Further, with the help of anchoring, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be fixed to the joists with staples.
Along the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
Next, laid on the covered polyethylene insulation plates material or expanded clay of small or medium fraction is filled up.

From above, it is imperative to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly made in houses with concrete or brick walls, and it is started after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It needs to be well tamped by pouring water.
The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be tamped. The thickness of its backfill must be at least 10 centimeters.
Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam crumbs to the solution. In addition, the solution in this case can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
On the finished solidified rough screed, you need to spread the waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic wrap - the main thing is that the material is laid tightly, with gluing overlaps.

Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the owner of the house and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there are no floor height differences in the room, it should be done on exposed construction level of beacons.

If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing difficult in the construction of floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in recent years it has been used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slags or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of soundproofing and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of the room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of the work, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling loose mix

To keep the floors in shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads from boards are installed.
On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant HWP, plywood or other sheet materials are laid. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done using a level. The next boards to be laid will be aligned with the first. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but it must be moved very carefully over the surface. The evenness of the stacking of sheets during the entire work is controlled using a level.
On the gypsum fiber sheets have folds, with the help of which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
The sheets are stacked with an offset of half the sheet, by analogy with brickwork - this will increase the stability of the coating.
Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to the flooring of another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If the floor is used gypsum fiber sheets, then on the first layer a fold is cut off from them, so that they are tightly adjacent to each other and the bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
It is not recommended to join the sheets exactly along the line of doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
If such floors are arranged in a room where the humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor is treated with a coating waterproofing before laying the decorative coating.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed can be mounted quite easily, if you approach the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of the timing of work, such technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

Natural building materials are considered to be quite relevant in use. In this regard, wooden floors in a private house, being an environmentally friendly product, are used in many country buildings.

They are quite popular, since the installation is quite simple and reliable. You can do the work without the services of specialists with your own hands. True, this will take a lot of effort and time. In addition, you will have to carefully study the nuances of the technology of their flooring.

Option selection

Sooner or later, such a question arises before every owner planning to reconstruct or build his house from scratch.

First, you need to decide on how the floor will be installed in a private house.

At the moment, the following options for flooring wooden floors are most popular:

Located on logs (cuttings) on the ground.
Installed on brick (concrete) pedestals.
Cement screed flooring.

The advantage that a wooden floor in a private house has over a concrete analogue is the environmental friendliness of the material and good thermal insulation performance. The only drawback is the need for well-executed waterproofing. If this is not done, even the most reliable larch or beech floor will eventually require replacement.

Of all the known methods of flooring, the concrete base is considered to be the most durable. But the material is very cold, so a wooden covering must be laid on top of it.

Construction and wood

Choose wood for flawless flooring

As an example, we consider the system of laying wooden floors in a private house located on the ground floor. For this situation, the coating is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements:

lags (overshoots);
rough floors;
waterproofing;
thermal insulation;
clean floors;
finishing floor covering.

The structure is located on support pillars or beams made of cement mortar or bricks. Under the floor there is a subfloor in which communications can be placed, as well as use this free space for storing canned goods, vegetables or other unnecessary things.

If the underground has been thought out in advance, and the foundation was well insulated during its installation, it is allowed to arrange a full-fledged basement floor.

This method of floor installation is considered the most common, since thanks to the subfloor, the space is well ventilated, the wood is always dry, and an optimal microclimate is created on the ground floor. Installation of a wooden floor directly on the ground is allowed only if the level of passage of groundwater has been taken into account.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to the formation of mold and mildew in the subfield. In this case, waterproofing should be given special attention.

Choice of materials

Choose resinous wood for lag

Wooden floors in a private house are constantly exposed to heavy loads, therefore, for their installation, it is recommended to use only solid wood species, and it is also necessary to choose materials that are suitable for the following characteristics:

The lifespan of the floors will depend on what percentage of moisture the fiber has. Otherwise, you will have to thoroughly dry the boards and treat them with special compounds that prevent the formation of mold.
It is recommended to install the floor in the house only from boards and beams that do not have cracks and chips. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the need to repair the structure in a short period.
Treatment with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptics is required in any case.
Planks of oak, ash and beech have the greatest strength. The disadvantage of materials made from these types of wood is that they are too fragile and expensive. Therefore, the most common sawn timber is from coniferous species: pine, spruce, larch, cedar.

Underground

Don't forget the vents

When laying floors with your own hands, you definitely need to think about the fact that the subfloor under them has ventilation holes. If this is not done, the service life of the flooring will be significantly reduced.

If windy and snowy winters occur in the region in which the house is located, a ventilation pipe with a visor is installed as a barrier against blowing out the underground space.

To improve the quality of ventilation, you can make an additional window fan. A small lattice with a cell more than 10 mm in size will serve as a barrier to entry of mice and rats.

Posts or beams

The device of floors in a private house begins with the installation of base posts. In most cases, these are brick lined or poured concrete structures. As an option, wood of durable species is used: oak, beech, ash, but their service life rarely exceeds 10 years. For more information about the device of floors in a house made of timber, see this video:

First you need to choose the location of the columns. To do this, you need to use a tape measure and lacing. The rope runs between the walls in the center of the room. With an interval of 80 - 100 cm from each other, notes are made in the ground. These are the locations of the pillars. Then you can be guided by the following rule: the distance from the posts depends on the thickness of the lag or cut. The larger the beam, the greater the distance you can make.

To determine the exact distance between the posts, it is recommended to use the table.

After the installation sites are determined, you can proceed with the installation of the pillars. The best option would be to pour individual foundations under them, going 50 - 100 cm deep.

Their height should exceed the ground level by 5-10 cm, after which a layer of waterproofing is laid and the main element is mounted. The average width depends on the height of the structure and ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

To avoid leveling the floor and make your work easier, you need to take care of the correct horizontal line even at the stage of preparing the base for the posts and monitor its observance throughout the entire installation process.

Installation of logs (cuttings)

Water protection is placed under the wooden logs

Before making wooden floors in a private house, you need to lay a wooden beam on the pillars aligned at the same height, on which the floorboards will be laid in the future. On the stone surface, you need to place a waterproofing; for this, the use of roofing material is allowed.

A bar is laid on top, which must be fixed on the base of the pillars. To do this, you can use metal plates or corners, which are attached with anchors, screws or nails. After the cuts are laid and secured, they need to be treated with an antiseptic.

If the horizontal has not been observed, the plane is leveled by placing wooden wedges under the timber.

Installation of floorboards

Depending on the chosen method of how the flooring in a private house will be, the procedure for further work may differ significantly. The simplest is the installation of a single floor.

It will take much more time and consumables to make a double wooden floor with insulation placed inside.

Single

After the cuts are fixed, grooved boards with a thickness of 4 - 5 cm are laid on them. Fixation to the timber is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. After completing the installation, it is allowed to lay the floor covering or paint the erected floor.

A predominantly single floor is installed for a summer cottage, which is used only in warm weather.

Double insulated

If the floor is to be installed for a house where you will be living permanently, it is recommended to use a double floor with an intermediate position of thermal insulation. This technology will require more time and money, but the result will not keep you waiting long. The floor will be much warmer, and living in the house will be more comfortable. For more information on installing a wooden floor, see this video:

The installation procedure is as follows:

When installing rough wooden floors in a private house, you need to leave a gap of 2 - 3 cm from the edge board to the wall. It is needed for the temperature shift of the wood and will help to avoid possible swelling of the surface.

Wood is considered a natural and environmentally friendly material that requires compulsory care. Despite the superficial complexity of flooring for a private house, even a person who does not have sufficient multifaceted experience in this area can do this work.

A wooden floor is a classic solution in construction and renovation. No modern composite materials can replace the warmth and environmental friendliness of wood at home. Despite the fact that wood is inferior to concrete or composites in strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will be popular with builders for a long time to come. The device of the floor in a wooden house has been worked out by many generations, so it should not cause any special problems even for not very experienced craftsmen.

It is possible to arrange a floor in a wooden structure using various technologies. Consider the procedure for performing work, materials, tools and equipment used in this case.

Floor scheme in a house made of wood on pillars

The construction of a floor of such a structure is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or load-bearing beams into the walls of your house for building the floor. In this case, the floor will be constructed according to a free "floating" scheme and will not be connected in any way with the external walls of the building. Also, such a floor structure is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a high level of soil water.

The flooring in a house made of wood of this design can be divided into two types.

Single wooden plank flooring... This type of floor is the easiest to build and further use and repair. It is recommended to use this design in small houses in summer cottages built for seasonal use.
Double floor... This type of floor is built in buildings intended for year-round use. When using this technology, two decks are built: black and fine, in the gap between them, insulation is placed against heat loss and moisture penetration.

The technology of building a floor in houses made of wooden materials on supports

Step 1. Dig in the space of your subfloor. The pit should be dug more than half a meter deep from the lower level of the planned floor. Place a cushion of rubble, gravel or river sand cleaned from organic matter in the excavated pit. It is recommended that the top edge of the pillow rises above the ground level in the area near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.

Step 2. Floor pillars can be formed from red fired bricks. So, if you plan to lay the floor on supports 25 centimeters high, then its optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. With a support height of more than 25 centimeters, the post is placed in two bricks.

There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, you can place monolithic concrete pillars in the underground. In this case, the concrete solution is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which a metal frame made of reinforcement is mounted.

Concrete mortar can also be poured into vertically installed and deepened into the gravel bed sections of asbestos-cement pipes, inside which a frame made of reinforcement is also placed.

In any case, when choosing a technology for erecting support pillars, it is necessary to pay attention to their uniform upper level. The best control device is a laser level or level. The distance between the support posts horizontally and vertically is about one meter.

Step 3. A layer of waterproofing is laid on each pillar-support. The easiest way to do this is to use two combined layers of sheet insulation, for example roofing material.

Step 4.On the waterproofing layer is placed a wooden block with a thickness of 30 mm.

Step 5.Lag beams are laid on the support posts. Usually they are built from thick wooden beams, cut from coniferous wood and treated with an antiseptic. The joints of the lags should fall on the pillars. When building, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the log. You can adjust the lag position using counter wedges. Depending on the width of the wooden boards used in the construction of the floor, the distance between adjacent joists can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.

Step 6.A board flooring is laid on the laid logs. To create an aesthetic appearance, it is better to lay wooden boards parallel to the directions of the light falling from the windows of the room. The first board is laid with a gap from the wall up to 15 mm. Then this space will be closed with a plinth, but the gap will ensure the movement of air into the underfloor space.

Step 7.Boards made of solid wood are fastened to the logs with nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should be twice the thickness of the board. The nails are driven in at a slope so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the interface plane of the board and the support log. The optimum tilt angle is 30-45 degrees to the vertical. The heads of nails are completely sunk into the board by blows from the sharp side of the hammer. Then, after the filling and painting process, the nail heads will disappear from view.

We nail the boards with nails at an acute angle

Step 8. On top of the boards along the perimeter of the walls, a plinth strip is nailed. A temporary plinth is mounted near two opposite walls of the room, which is fixed a couple of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation until the final drying of the array of boards, and then they will be closed with a permanent skirting board.

Please note that if a room with a floor on concrete or brick supports-pillars will not be heated in winter, the supports can "lead" and the geometry of the wooden floor structure will be disturbed. Additional thermal insulation to the underground space can be provided by a layer of slag, but in the gap between its upper edge and the wooden floor there must be a space of at least 5 centimeters to ensure ventilation.

How to build a single plank floor in a wooden house

If, when building walls in a house made of wood, you provided for the laying of support-beams, then the most affordable way to build a floor would be to lay a single plank floor. Usually the gap between the support beams is at least one meter.

On top of the support beams, joists are mounted for laying the floor. For their construction, wooden beams with a side of 50-60 millimeters are used. The distance between the joists depends on the width of the tongue-and-groove board used for flooring:
- if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between the logs should be no more than half a meter;
- if you use a grooved board with a thickness of 400 mm or more, then the optimal distance between the logs will be 50-60 centimeters.
When laying the lathing from the lag, be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper level of the beams. It is advisable to use a laser or ordinary building level for this, adjusting the height of the log location with the help of counter wedges knocked under it.
The logs are fixed to the load-bearing beams by means of long nails or carpentry brackets.

The single-structure plank floor is laid directly on the logs. For laying the finished floor in one layer, a tongue-and-groove board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one, adjusted by tapping with a mallet, and then nailed to the log with a long nail that goes into the body of the board at a slight slope. The nail head is recessed into the body of the board. If you plan to place a finishing floor covering on the floor in one layer, then it is possible to use unedged boards.

A fine tongue-and-groove flooring is sanded and then varnished or painted. A finishing decorative coating, for example, linoleum, is laid on the subfloor layer.

This is a very fast and affordable way to build a floor in a timber structure. However, the thermal insulation of such a structure leaves much to be desired, and in a house designed for year-round use, it is better to build a double floor structure.

We build a floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Unlike a single floor, a double floor consists of two layers: finishing and roughing.

Step 1

Lags are mounted on the supporting bearing beams, to which additional cranial bars are nailed.

Step 2

On the cranial additional bars in the transverse direction, boards of the rough layer of the flooring are nailed. You can use unedged coniferous boards of various thicknesses (15-45 mm). Before laying, the boards are treated with an antiseptic. The boards to be laid are tightly fitted to each other so that there are minimal gaps.

Step 3

A layer of vapor barrier made of durable polyethylene is laid on the rough flooring. Its stripes are overlapped.

Step 5

Logs are laid on the rough floor. Their height is selected depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).

Step 6

An insulating layer is located between the lags. The choice of material for insulation depends solely on your budget and preferences:

rolled out roll of mineral wool;
foamed polymer boards (for example, expanded polystyrene);
a layer of backfill material, for example expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust;
system of pipelines for a warm water floor.

Step 7

On top of the insulating layer, another layer of waterproofing is laid. If you are building a warm water floor in the thickness of wood, the top layer of waterproofing is not used. When building a floor with passive thermal insulation, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left between the upper edge of the thermal insulation layer.

Step 8

On top of this whole "sandwich" tongue-and-groove boards are laid. The technology for their installation has already been described above.

Step 9

During installation, ventilation holes with a cross section of about 5 centimeters are left in the corners of the room, which are closed with decorative grilles. The surface of the grates rises a couple of centimeters above the floor. This elevation protects the grating from moisture ingress.

The underground is also ventilated through the windows in the walls of the basement. In winter, all types of ventilation windows are closed.

Features of the construction of the floor on the first floor of wooden buildings

When installing the floor on the lower ground or basement floor of a wooden house above unheated basements, there are certain peculiarities.

Cold floor located directly on the ground (no underground)

A cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground) is built in the presence of dry soil under the house and with a high location of the overlap of the first floor of the building. The underground floor consists of 4 layers:

tamped sand cushion;
dry, clean, calcined sand;
log (beams made of coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in the poured soil base and resting on recesses in the outer walls of the room;
single plank flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with unheated underfloor space

The procedure for the construction of an insulated floor with an unheated underground space

Placing in the underground a pillow made of compacted sand, free of organic matter (thickness 10-15 cm).
Installation of support posts with a height of at least half a meter. A very simple and economical way to install supports would be to pour concrete mortar into sections of upright pipes with a metal frame inside.
Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
Placement of wooden dies 30 mm thick.
Laying of load-bearing beams-lag.
In order to insulate the floor when using this technology, slats (about 15 mm in cross-section) are nailed to the side ends of the lag, on which the rough floor layer from cut unedged boards is laid.
A vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation are placed on the rough flooring layer (the flooring level is just below the finished floor). A plank floor or wood-based panel covering is laid on top of the beams.

Cold floor with heated underground space

A cold floor with a heated underground space is used in construction on soils with a low level of soil water. The technology of its installation is the same as the previous one, up to the stage of installation of the subfloor. After installing the lag, a finishing floor is mounted on top of them without creating an insulating layer.

Watch the instructional video to learn more about the construction steps.