How to warm the steam room in a brick bath. Features of the process of insulation of a brick bath. With slab insulation

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? The inner surface of the walls The brick bath is most effective to insulate with the help of natural heat-insulating materials, which are superbly preserving heat, but absolutely not excreasing at high temperatures of any harmful substances. In particular, for these purposes, the mineral wool-based cloths are perfectly suitable, produced in the form of rolls or individual mats.

Only lack of such insulation - The ability to absorb moisture, which is always abused in any bath. Therefore, the heat-stash layer will require additional waterproofing that rebagging mineral wool from steam and water.

Procedure for mounting insulation On the interior walls will be as follows:

on a brick wall of wooden plays, a carrier frame is built;
the resulting cells are laid thermal insulation material. In addition to mineral wool, more modern materials can be applied with great success. For example, foil foam is not only absolutely insensitive to the effects of moisture and temperature of several hundred degrees, but due to the shiny foil surface, the foil is able to reflect heat back to the bathroom;
the entire design is closed with a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene, foil, etc. To ensure complete moisture resistance, the waterproofing material should be laid with the overlap at 10-20 cm. To make additional strength connections, all joints should be fixed with thin and flat wooden slats.

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed wooden clapboard.

In addition to the walls, the internal thermal insulation of the brick bath should include and events to reduce heat loss through the floors. The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

on the black floor peeled and dirt and contamination, a layer of vaporizolation is stacked;
lined and recorded in one way or another heat-insulating mats;
stacked a layer of waterproofing;
it is equipped with a finishing floor from the most wide boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

It is very important to take into account the material from which the draft floor is made. If it is formed by boards, they will be required in advance treat to the tool to prevent wood rotting.

The concrete black floor itself is capable of playing the role of thermal insulation. Therefore, at the stage of its arrangement, it is necessary to take care of the attachment of heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

in the pit, the layer of the sand thick of about 5-10 cm is trambed;
the solid heat insulator is placed (foam);
a mixture of cement, sand and crushed foam plastic is falling asleep;
the regurgid sheets are stacked;
the reinforcement grid is lifted;
a solution of concrete is poured with the addition of rubble small fraction;
at an altitude of 10-20 cm, a finishing milking floor is created.

The resulting design is beneficial by what it is ventilated. And this means a significant increase in service life as a clean floor, so the heat-insulating concrete base under it.

Wall insulation from the outside

Outdoor work on thermal insulation of brick bath We are carried out using the entire mineral wool insulation, well maintaining heat, non-combustible and capable of performing noise insulator functions. If a roll insulation is used, then it is easiest to fix it on the outer walls the easiest way to be dried straps or slats.

When the use of thermal insulation in the form of mats Based on mineral wool, the work technology will be somewhat different:

metal profile and corners are constructed a dory, fastening with a dowel to the outer surface of the wall;
cells of the embankment of jack are filled with heat insulating mats;
the joints between mats for strengthening are sampled by construction scotch;
the layer of waterproofing is superimposed.

The final stage will be wall sheat decorative materials (siding, lining, etc.)

Meanwhile, for insulation of brick baths it is quite possible to apply foam sheets. Order of work when insulating bath foam heat insulating material Will be:

the surface of the brickwork is exempt from all types of pollution;
possible flaws in the form of a chopped brick or deep seams are thoroughly attached;
with the help of glue on the wall, foam sheets are pasted;
after drying the glue, the foam is additionally attached to special dowels with wide hats. Screw the dowels follows five points of each foam sheet: in several centimeters from the corners and in the middle;
the joints between the sheets of thermal insulator are missing with glue;
the reinforcement grid is superimposed;
the resulting surface is plastered.

To give the wall of additional strength walking is best done in two layers..

Heat ceiling

Through the ceiling with poor quality heat insulation can leave to a quarter of all heatThe furnace produced. Therefore, to reduce losses to the insulation of the ceiling, no less attention should be paid than in the case of the walls. The most suitable isolating material for these goals is light and non-combustible fiberglass.

Works on the warming ceiling in the bath Produced as follows:

on the boards of ceiling overlap, the canvas or mats of fiberglass are laid out;
the mixture consisting of equal parts of wood sawdust, sand and clay is poured over. The optimal thickness of this layer is 20-25 cm;
after drying the previous layer, the sheets of foam are laid out;
the entire surface is filled with a small layer of cement screed.

In addition, excellent thermal insulation is able to provide and ordinary ceramzit. With the thickness of the backfill of the order of 30-40 cm, it will be able to securely hold the precious heat.

How to insulate the steam room

The insulation of the steam room in a brick bath as a whole differs little from the creation of thermal insulation in the rest of the bathrooms. The differences consist only in the need for additional thermal insulation of the ceiling inside the wage, as well as in the use of metal foil both on the ceiling and on the walls.

Procedure for the insulation of the ceiling in the steam It will be the following.

The entire surface of the ceiling is closed with rolled paper. In the joints of the joints you need to create an adhesive at 10-20 cm.
Wooden bars with a cross section of 5x5 cm are nailed to the ceiling. These bars will have a double purpose: they will be attached to the paper and become the basis for fastening the outer coating.
The entire ceiling is stuck with a metallic foil. For its attachment, it is best to use a special adhesive tape, on one of the surfaces of which the aluminum layer is applied. There should be no breaks between sheets or strips of foil, since the penetrating hot couple will lead to the wetting of the ceiling overlap. This is fraught with a deterioration of heat insulating qualities and can lead to the development of grinding processes.
Wooden rails, which, in turn, will be fused on top of the bars, which, in turn, will be attached to the main ceiling coating of wooden lining.

Similarly, fastening foil and to the surfaces of the walls in the steam room.

As a trim material in the steam room is best used pine lining. Pine is perfectly opposed to both high temperatures and the effects of hot steam from the heater. In addition, due to the presence of a certain amount of resins, the distance from the pine will give an atmosphere with a special flavor.

In general, the process of insulation of a brick bath does not cause special difficulties even from masters without extensive experiences of such work.

The most important thing - Choose a suitable insulation, resistant to high temperatures and high humidity. In the case of using the fearing moisture of thermal insulation, it should be carefully insulated from the bath atmosphere or from precipitation in the case of external work.

Choosing which bath to build is a wooden or brick in the country area, it is necessary to start to decide and understand some nuances of these building materials. A feature of the brick is a thorough insulation of a brick bath from the inside, due to its high thermal conductivity.

The wooden bath during construction requires additional activities such as the application of protective equipment from fire, as well as waterproofing of the carrying elements of the structure.

In contrast to the tree, brick buildings have refractory and moisture-proof properties. At the same time, with the aim of improving comfortable conditions when making hygienic procedures, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside helps to increase the efficiency of the construction of the construction of about 2-3 times. Next will be considered, as in which premises to insulate a brick bath, as well as what materials it is better to use for these purposes.

Features of the internal insulation of brick bath

When building a bath, it is important to know how and where, if possible, make insulation of a brick bath from the inside with their own hands.

The main elements of the structure requiring insulation or thermal insulation from the inside of the bath are:

The foundation throughout the perimeter of the structure.
The floor in all rooms also around the perimeter.
Ceiling, that is, the roof.
Walls, both exterior and internal (partitions).

At the same time, the insulation of the brick bath from the inside, its scheme as a whole is not a complex and particularly laborious process.

Most often, the inner insulation of the walls is carried out in two common options:

The creation of an additional second wall along the main one, that is, throughout the perimeter, the main brick wall and indoors.
The recommended heat-resistance inside the brick structure is also achieved by mounting the double layer of the insulation.

As for the insulation of other components of the bath fragments, here, as a rule, everything is almost standard, that is, today, most thermal insulation materials are fully suitable for the implementation of these purposes.

Bath insulation materials

In order to insulate a brick bath, you will need to purchase certain materials that are in the classical way to insulate from the inside of one or another component element - the foundation, floor, ceiling or walls.

So, for thermal insulation of the horizontal part of the foundation, as a rule, a foam is used or clamzit, since these materials are the most affordable and possess all the necessary qualities to cover this element of the bath. The vertical insulation of the foundation of the brick bath, for example, the penplex or polyurethane foam is recommended to be carried out with the help of specialists, since their independent application will cost the owner of the future bath more expensive than calling the masters with the ready-made arsenal of all necessary for such procedures.

The floor in such premises, as a pre-banker and washing, is recommended to cover ceramic tiles with thermal insulation under it, respectively. Schematically, this procedure can be briefly described as follows: the beams are sewn the cranial bar, which is mounted by the draft floor from the board, then the layer of vapor barrier is placed, then the heat-insulating material (expanded polystyrene foam, or clay), and at the end, the reinforced mesh falls on the resulting cake, And all this is then poured by cement-concrete solution.

At the same time, after drying the concrete tie, the floor in the brick bath is covered with waterproof with the subsequent imposition of ceramic tiles on it. In the steam room and recreation room, the flooring is mandatory necessary to arrange a wooden flooring, in order to avoid the so-called heat blow from the heated steam floor.

The insulation of the walls of the steam room in a brick bath is produced using a basalt insulation, which is covered with a special foil for the bath. The borders of the compounds in the foolized insulation and the foil itself glue a wide specially intended for these purposes by aluminum scotch.

As for the ceiling, it is insulated on top of mineral wool with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. The ceiling insulation of the brick bath from the inside can also be made using fiberglass, 2-clay-sandy layers (one layer layer, and the other layer is from the vermiculite or its analog), as well as the penplex - the floor-beaten over all these layers.

At the same time, in the steam room, the ceiling again it is desirable to coat with folzigized fiberglass, since the polystyrene foaming, with severe heating, distinguishes the substances dangerous to human health.

If tested for years and proven by experts, the insulation of a brick bath inside is carried out mainly with such materials as mineral wool, crumples, vermiculitis, penurex, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation, fiberglass, and so on, do not forget that there are also other bottlenecks which also occur small, but heat loss.

Of course, these places are mainly either door, or window openings, as a rule, are outdoor. In this regard, it is not desirable when building a bath to lay large windows looking into the street or courtyard, as well as very high doors. At the same time, window openings are recommended to be located as low as possible, and the entrance door must be equipped with a threshold.

In order for the insulation of the brick bath inside, it was more reliable, it is preferable to install triple glass windows on the windows, and the doors choose from a tree with a heatel inside or from heat-resistant, shockproof, durable glass.

Another small nuance, which should not be neglected during the construction of a brick bath is the implementation of local protective impregnation of bricks from the effects of malicious bacteria. This procedure is recommended mainly in such premises as a steam room and shower.

No less useful to know several reasons, as a result of which it is not recommended to produce an outer insulation of a brick bath. One of them is an undesirable and very expensive tart from insulation on both sides of the brick. Making the insulation of the walls of the bath outside, the consumption increases not only in the construction material, but also on fuel. Another is significant losses for warm brick warm over winter.

Avoiding the formation of condensate on the ceiling in the steam room will help a simple calculation, which is based on the laws of physics: thermal insulation for the ceiling must always be proportionally thicker than for walls.

Summarizing

Since a private bath, whether it is from a brick or tree, operated periodically, it does not make sense to maintain a constant positive temperature in it. Therefore, as a win-win version, if the bath has a brick frame, it is recommended to produce all measures of insulation of rooms inside.

Thus, the competent installation of the insulation of brick walls by the layers of insulation from the inside will give good savings in the expenditures for the heating of rooms. In turn, this means that the thermal insulation material must work according to the rule of detention of warm air in a closed space.

If all the measures for the insulation of the surface surfaces were carried out correctly, then such a brick bath during operation will retain the resulting heat from the burned firewood inside, and its visitors will eventually receive anything that is not comparable to stay in it.

How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands

Quite often, the baths are brought from bricks. When they are built, one of the important stages is the insulation of a brick bath from the inside. The fact is that the walls from this material cannot keep the heat for a long time.

When the brick bath is built, the insulation of the walls can be done using various building materials. Qualitatively to ensure heat-stash from the inside, so that the heat is held for a long time inside the construction, will help information on this topic. READ ALSO: "How to build a brick bath - start with the foundation and finish the roof."

Materials used for insulation

After the walls are erected, the roof is mounted and the doors are installed, proceed to the interior decoration of the building. The insulation of the brick bath must be performed so that in the premises the optimal microclimate and temperature regime is maintained in the premises. Also keep warm inside the construction helps decorative wall decoration.

Usually, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside is made with their own hands by mounting a multi-layer insulating structure. One of its layers is placed from the plates, and the other from rolled materials having a foil-based coating, since this type of heat protection perfectly reflects the IF radiation and protects insulation from the negative effects of wet air.

To perform this work qualitatively, you need to know how to insulate the walls in a brick bath.

Specialists advise using the following materials:

minvatu in rolls or plates;
glass wool;
plates peat or cellulose porous structure;
reed mats;
polyurethane or polystyrene plates.

It should be borne in mind that thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene, as well as glass gamble, do not differ in good thermal resistance. For this reason, they should not be used when the warming of a steam room in a brick bath is performed, in particular its walls and ceiling overlap. To reduce heat loss through the floor covering, a layer of clay is used as an additional thermal insulator.

In perfectly proven insulation produced on the basis of foil. As you know, such materials like foil film are expensive, therefore, for the interior decoration of bathrooms with a low degree of humidity, kraft paper is allowed. As a result, it turns out to be saved. For example, in the living room for insulation you can use cheaper materials.

Heat insulation in bricks baths

Whacking options that are suitable for a bath under construction are not suitable for heat-preserves of bath buildings in which overhaul is made. But the sequence of work in both cases has a lot in common.

When the insulation of the brick bath is performed from the inside - the diagram provides that it is necessary to start work from a floor covering. The heat protection floor is needed, as the person moves along its surface with barefoot, and therefore it should be warm as possible.

Before you insulate the brick bath from the inside with your own hands, you should create between the foundation of the building and the floor covering the air clearance. Thus, sufficient thermal insulation will be provided.

During the arrangement of the gap on the basis of the room, the support bars are installed, and in the intervals between them, the clay is poured, the layer of which should be as follows 2 times the thickness of the walls in the construction. On top of the support elements, lagows made from wooden bars, which are pre-dried and treated with antiseptics.

Between them are placed plates of heat shielding materials, and the gaps formed during the work between the lags and the insulation layer should be eliminated by cycling polyurethane foam. Then it is necessary to put Parchment to the floor, and on top of it, it was made of plywood sheets or boards. Mounted the main flooring at the final stage.

Features of heat protection walls in the baths

After the insulation is completed, the floor is proceeded to create protection for walls. Before insulate the brick bath from the inside, in order to prevent the reproduction of the wall bacteria in them, they are impregnated with special means. This procedure is required only for the processing of some rooms - these are shower rooms and steam rooms.

There are features regarding how to properly insulate a brick bath (walls in it):

To reduce the degree of heat loss, the slots between the windows and walls are eliminated using a polyurethane foam.
The framework on which the skin is mounted is built of wooden bars and fix it directly on the brickwork.
It is undesirable to use metal profiles and suspensions in the work, since they have a property of thermal energy.
Minvatu or polystyrene plates used as insulation are placed in the cells from which the lamp consists.
The heat insulation material is fixed on the masonry of the dowel-umbrella or use special adhesive compositions.
Before sticker heat shields, bath walls laid out of bricks need to be treated with penetrating primer.

After completion of fixation on the walls of the main thermal insulation material, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer from kraft paper, or foil films or other materials.

It is necessary to know how to warm the steam room in a brick bath properly, because in a particularly wet room, kraft paper is splashing and will soon come into disrepair.
For such places, foil-based film is best.

If necessary, it is possible to fill the counterclaim on the bars of crates, as a result of which a gap will appear between the outer skin and the layer of vaporizolation. Then the lining knuckle to the counterclaim.

In the case when the bath has a larger square, its walls should be isolated on all floors so that in the process of operation avoid significant heat loss. If there is a loggia, it is also subject to insulation. In addition, to ensure thermal protection, the construction will not damage the installation of good entrance doors equipped with a minimum of two sealing contours.

The order of thermal protection ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bathrooms without ceiling insulation in them. This is especially important to do when they are located in a single-storey building.

The sequence of performing work in the arrangement of thermal protection ceiling overlap in the bath is as follows:

From above on the ceiling laid fiberglass, placing the strip of the material of the Vanest. They are connected to each other using tape or adhesive tape.
On top of the insulation, a solution is laying, mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
A layer of foam layer is placed on the clay solution, and then a cement mixture is poured on it with a thickness of about 10 centimeters.
To improve the thermal insulation indicators of the bath structure, it is possible to add a foam crumb to a mass of cement, observing the proportion of 1: 3, and even better 1: 4.
For the black surface of the ceiling from within the bars of crates, placing basalt cotton battles between them in the plates.
On top of the heat-insulating product, the foil film is filling, and it is cut from above with a clapboard, observing a 10-millimeter gap between the elements.

Subject to the proper implementation of the insulation of the room from the inside, during its operation, the loss of heat energy will be minimized, which means that the bath visit will bring maximum pleasure.

The warmer will be the bath itself, the smaller the firewood will be spent on its heating and the longer it will be kept warm. In general, the insulation of the bath is a comprehensive process. And the rest room, the steam room and the pregnant can be warm in different ways: due to its permanent microclimate. So how to warm the bath? Let's figure it out.

Warming Baths from the inside: photos, diagrams and video

So, how to insulate the bath from the inside, depending on which material it was built from.

Features of the heat insulation of Srub

Nobody has never insteaded from the cut from the cut from the cut - even the floors. Just from time to time, lags changed and the lower crowns were repaired. But today, when a good log house and the real Russian steam room is hardly uncommon, the question of quality insulation is far from the last. After all, how much is protected from moisture and cold the bath depends on its longevity.

In general, insulation in a wooden bath is only necessary when the size of the timber is small, in all other cases there are really enough cacopa and good waterproofing. For internal insulation, the bathroom wage from the bar is used by traditional "pie" with mineral wool - except that only the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a brick steer.

Brick bath and her insulation

The insulation of the brick bath from the inside is designed primarily to quickly fluctuating the brick during the minus temperature, affects the heat exchange processes in the bath - if only because it is absolutely imperative to heat it in winter. Therefore, an additional wooden frame is built in such pairs.

These can be the second walls inside the bath - from the bar 10x10 cm. For this, the lamp is made in the bath, the waterproofing material is mounted on it, and the wall from the bar is erected. It feels like a doomle and such materials are attached: fiberglass and a decade-bentimeter insulation, which has one side from foil. Then it goes waterproofing and finishing lining.

You can implement the second popular option, how to insulate a brick bath: instead of a timber, a layer of insulation is used as the same thickness, and another layer of waterproofing is laid between them. So how is the insulation of a bath of a bar? Basically, cartotic plates that have low weight are processed in advance with flame retardant composition and stand literally a penny. And so that they also do not rot, they can be additionally treated with a 3% solution of iron vapor. Inserting the cooching plates is needed in a layer of 15 m between the inner and external upholstery.

By the way, the inner walls in the brick bath is extremely desirable to do from wood - so that there are no problems with thermal insulation. And insulate them in the usual way.

How to insulate a bath from foam, slag blocks and concrete

Shlaklocks and foam blocks themselves have enough good heat insulating materials due to their porous structure. But they can still freeze in winter, and therefore it is necessary to further insulate the block bath. Otherwise, all its walls will delight in frost with unaesthetic dark wet stains.

Most of all suitable for such a bath mineral wool and fiberglass. But in general, the whole cake must be provided with reliable vapor barrier - any blocks are extremely not like an increased humidity in the air, and water absorb themselves like sponges. In general, you can use as insulation and foam.

The first task when insulation of the aerated concrete walls of the bath is removed from the loop of the heating array of concrete from the contour. For which inside the entire structure of the framework must be made with an indentation from the walls. Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, at the top of the bath and below you need to make special windows-producing windows from the outside. During the bath procedures, they need to close, and during drying a bath - open. And then the usual "cake" of insulation into the steam room and washing. The most standard looks like this: a deplete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indentation from the wall - the insulation - a board - vaporizolation where the steam room is an oinovaya or cedar board. Thus, ice walls do not have to warm - that's all the tricks.

Rules for insulation frame bath

The idea of \u200b\u200ba frame bath suggests that in the inside of her wooden "skeleton" there will be a lot of heat insulator. This construction technology even has its name - Canadian, and is considered worldwide the most energy-saving in modern construction. Warming such a bath is best of all, of course, mineral wool, but the foam plastic will feel bad here.

In each "skeleton" window, you need to attach a cotton insulator, well protecting it with pair and waterproofing - that's all insulation. It remains to sew the outdoor sides of the frame of the bath with wooden clapboels or OSP-plates, and then do finishing finishing works.

But the steamer in the bath is insulated by the same principle that the log houses with rolled special insulators, which are equipped with membranes and the arrangement of ventilation gaps between partitions do not require.

Option Two: The insulation of the bath buckle occurs according to such a scheme. Directly on the frame is pair insulation from the parchment (or runneroid, or toli), which is attached due to the trim from the tree. Between the resulting internal and external walls, it is necessary to put foam, fibrolite plates or heat insulating plates from the root. All this is closed on all sides by layers from asbatee, why the frame sauna becomes stronger, and warmer.

You can also warm the frame bath with sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in the ratio of ten to one and a thick layer is laid between the outer and inner lining. The main thing is that sawdusts are well succumbed, and the layers are treated with iron vigor.

Features of the insulation of the ceiling and floor

For the pre-bang and washing room of the bath is perfect ceramic tile - but under it there should also be thermal insulation. Here is the most common floor insulation scheme in the bath: the beams are sewn to the cranial bar, which is stacked by the draft floor from the board. After that, there is a layer of vaporizolation, and then the space between the beams must be filled with the selected insulating material - polystyrene foam or clay, for example.

On top of this, the reinforced metal mesh is placed and a concrete screed is poured. Already after drying the latter, floor-insulation of the floor - hydroizol. Again the screed in 3-5 cm thick and can be embedded at the request of a heap system. And finally, a ceramic tile is put on the tie.

But in the steam room and rest room, the floor is definitely made from the tree - so that the so-called "heat strike" does not happen.

Compilation of "Cake" with ceiling insulation

The insulation of the bath from the inside starts with the ceiling - after all, the highest temperature is always at its level, and therefore this part of the steam room needs special attention. The ceiling must be arranged like this: vaporizolation - insulation - sheathing - beam bar - ceiling boards.

If the attic or the second floor in the bath is residential, then the insulation pie will look a little differently: the ceiling boards need to smear the clay in a two-chamber layer and pour them with wood chop to 20 cm, or a clay or use some insulation. The main thing is that it turns out to be the necessary thickness.

This is how the insulation of the bath from foam blocks, cutting and bricks. Each type of building is its own technology, and the knowledge of at least its Azov will help you always save your steam room warm.

Before you warm the bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It should be necessary to take note of what material the bath was built (bricks, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your terrain.

Heat insulation Sruba

Estimation of centuries for the traditional Russian bath put a log house. Although it is known that the tree is pretty well kept warm and in diameter, the log house can be more than 20 cm, yet it is necessary to insulate the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth insulating a bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you have verified that it is extremely necessary to warm your bath. So, let's consider ways to insulate the bath outside. To warm the loghouse best, it is necessary to carry out a pantry (caulking).

Most often, the caulking occurs in 3 stages:

during the first stage, the crowns are stacked by one on one, a special interventic insulation is placed on the lower crown;
already to the second stage, go through a year, immediately after a shrinkage occurs;
but the third stage of insulation occurs only four years later, the field of how the bath was built. At this stage, the cauldron is represented as a restoration of the previously installed insulation of the bath.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it began to quickly produce heat, then you should use the insulation, which is based on Jute and Flax. This jute is well kept warm and not flammable. The truth should be remembered that it can easily break. And for this reason, Flax was added to the insulation. Scoring the gap with this insulation it is important to do it very carefully, since with negligence you can provoke a battery skew. Also to eliminate unwanted slots, you can use a sealant that has a syringe shape. It is easier to use and qualitatively fills all the gaps.

Brick bath, insulation order

It is known that the brick wall cools much faster than the wooden surface, for example, a log cabin. This is because the brick gives the brick much faster. And even in brick walls, there are practically no slots, no gaps, still heats up a brick wall for a very long time. But remember that this applies to the laptile premises.

It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good thermal insulation and fire-resistant properties.

How the hydro and vapor polypoletor is best used isoPan. Since this material protects from all sorts of moisture mineral wool.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the occurrence of the fungus and without the isyospan, thermal insulation can serve you not so long as I would like. Speaking about the decorative design of the walls in your bath, everything completely depends on your material means and preferences. But it is best to protect thermal insulation from the outside using siding or lining.

The preparation of the walls is reduced to removing various types of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finishes, etc. If there are cracks in the brickwork, it is necessary to close them with cement mortar (s), otherwise the convective air flows will be powered out of the bath through the insulation layer, and cold masses with Streets will be suited through the slots at the bottom of the walls.
First, drill holes under the dowel to fix the metal brackets into the wall of the brick. Metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected insulation dimensions. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be ventilated inefficiently, moisture will accumulate in the wat.
Dowels are fixed by the brackets to which the minvati plates are fastened with aluminum or galvanized stainless steel profiles. The thickness of the plates of the Ministry of Service is chosen on the basis of climatic conditions, for the middle strip of Russia, 15-centimeter plates or two-layer laying of 100 and 50-thymillimeter insulating mats are allowed. Wool is inserted between the brackets, the laying is being taken upward, additional fixation is carried out by "fungi" - facade dowels.

Note! Metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically on the brick wall. Dowels are used for fastening, they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. In bars also drill holes for anchors. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "the width of the insulation minus 1-1.5 cm." Plates with a thickness of 50 mm are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the beams of the crates for the second layer of the insulation and both layers of the insulation are attached to the walls of the "fungi" facade. The last stage of work both in the first case and when using wooden bars, is the pulling of the basin bands, gluing its joints, after which the vertical counterclaim under siding / lining is stuffed.

"Wet" methods of insulation of brick bath

The procedure for insulation framework construction

The design of the frame-shield bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not adapted to the heaters of a large mass. And at least mineral wool has a slight weight, complete with decorative trim, the mass becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to the deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, a foam will be used much better when insulation, because this insulation is much easier, will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.

Foam is also inherent in such properties as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that the polyfoam has a number of advantages. When insulating this material, you will not need to build a separate framework, the foam should only be attached to special glue.

As a decorative finish, you can use shuttering on the grid. But remember that it needs to be done only after you laid the insulation, and the glue is completely dry.

Due to the fact that many masters believe that heating, the foam loses his shape and begins to gradually collapse, it is recommended to think about using mineral wool, with the insulation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Warming of frame bath with her hands

Video - rules and errors of insulation baths from the inside and outside

How to insulate a box of foam block

Many experts argue that it is necessary to warm the box from foam block on the same technology that is used in the insulation of a brick bath. Others consider this opinion erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. From this it follows that the foam block must be protected from moisture from the inside, while for a bath of a brick of a waterproofing material.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam. This is quite a long-life material with high thermal insulation properties and physico-chemical parameters, it is easily mounted even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the heaters of rodents.

Bath insulation of foam block, main stages of work

Important note. The bath from aerated concrete is insulated by the same principle as the sauna of the slag block.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the lamps of the crate (the installation order is described above). Watch that there is no gaps between the crate and the heat insulator.

If a foam is used for insulation, it is recommended to further consolidate with its facade dowels or use the glue, and the joints of the sheets to cry for construction tape.

On top of the heater of the insulation, the waterproofing material is stretched, and the adhesives of the adjacent cloths 10-15 cm are strictly observed and the adhesive was performed. Directly fixing the rolled material is made by thin slats. Controls. Next will be fastened with decorative facade panels.

How to insulate the bath from the inside

Technologies of the warming of a church and brick bath are very similar. Most masters do not consider it necessary to warm the walls of the baths from the inside, paying attention to only the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should warm the bath from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

For what you need to warm the bath from the inside

The diameter of the wooden crown in the bathhouse is most often 20 centimeters. In the event that the cacked was performed qualitatively, it will not be necessary to insulate your bath from the inside. But still there are reasons why it is necessary:

it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the Siruba is small, which will lead to poor thermal insulation;
the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation was not insulated. Or was insulated, but very weak;
due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath outside is insufficient.

The masters are confident that if it is enough to warm up a bath, then it will go to her heating 3 times less energy, and it will be possible to use a weaker furnace.

The walls of the insulated bath in their structure are very similar to the thermos (sometimes they call insulation cake). After all, those who are going to really warm the baths, you will need vapor and waterproofing.

The walls of the insulated bath have the following structure: a predetermined wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vaporizolation, and, of course, decorative trim.

If you choose the right quality material correctly, you can independently cope with the insulation of the bath from the inside very quickly. For insulation, the bath will be needed with the material that will be:

high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
not inclined to rot, and will not be damaged by a variety of insects;
the most important thing, the insulation must be fire-resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable for quality and properties for the internal insulation of the bath, most often specialists use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a quite acceptable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic plates that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that, warming the walls, you should make hydro and vaporizolation in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely connected.

First of all, the surface of the walls should be prepared.

If you see any slots or seams, you should fill them with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend using sealant. After you have finished, you should go to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. In the event that your bath was made of a log, then it is strictly prohibited from waterproofing immediately after the construction. To begin with, wait until shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How to produce hydro and thermal insulation

First of all, you should protect the wall, the floor and the ceiling of the bath. It is best to use polyethylene film or a special foil.

The insulation technology itself with the use of foil is simple. The following should be done:

Note. All bars should be lubricated by a special antiseptic means in advance.

Bath trim from outside

Due to the fact that we already have a necessary wooden framework, we can only find high-quality material for the exterior trim. Only after that, the insulation of the bath can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external sheaving of the bath in Russia.

In conclusion, all of the above will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and useful advice of specialists.

In the bathroom, the microclimate is unique. Competent arrangement of the construction involves the insulation of the bath inside. This time-consuming process, but quite fulfilled independently.

Information how to properly insulate the bath inside will allow the owner to improve its characteristics. After completion of the work, it will be possible to save on the fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy indoors.

By making a decision to insulate a wooden bath from the inside with their own hands, a number of factors should be considered:

properties of the material used to provide heat shocks;
personal construction skills and opportunities;
own preferences.

Material features for heat shields

To determine how and the better to warm the bath from the inside you need to know in what conditions the materials will be operated:

First of all, it is necessary to take into account that in the steam room and in the washing room, the air is high in high humidity. In the pre-tribades, he is unlikely to be dry. Taking into account these factors, we can conclude: it is necessary to choose not a hygroscopic insulation or material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing.
In the paired air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees. Such insulation as an extruded polystyrene and foam in conditions of severe heating will begin to allocate substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, it is impossible to use plastic and linoleum panels for finishing. In the first case, the product even at 80 degrees of heat are subject to deformation.
A significant part of the thermal energy in conditions of high temperature begins to be lost both due to heat exchange and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bath on the walls from the inside should have a foil surface or in the thermal insulation scheme you need to provide a reflective layer consisting of foil.

Warming of different types of walls

The choice than to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside depends on the type of material from which it was erected:

If it is a brick, stone or concrete products, heat protection is required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation - the bath will have mocking walls and as a result of fluctuations in temperatures they will quickly begin to collapse. Select the thickness of the insulation should be tailored to the parameters of the supporting structures and climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10-centimeter layer.
Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the heat shield of the structure does not hurt, and on the other, the wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and the pre-banner. Of course, insulation of bathing from a bar having a thickness of walls no more than 15 centimeters is required. Bath logs are insulated when the log section does not exceed 20 centimeters.

From the inside the walls of greater thickness either do not isolate, or make heat with the arrangement of waterproofing and finishing with clapboard. The crate is arranged only in the presence of duties on the walls.

The horizontally located bands of the pairproofer fasten the stapler with a 5-centimeter adhesive to prevent the water penetration under the material. First, the lower canvas are laid. For vaporizolation, polyethylene should not be used due to the presence of high temperatures.

Selection of materials for insulation

The optimal solution than can be insulated with a bath from the inside, a basalt wool is considered. Apply rigid mats of 10-centimeter thickness. When thermal protection ceiling, the thickness of the thermal insulating layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat losses are mainly occurring through the ceiling overlap.

To insulate the bath inside, you still need to have materials:

For crate. The most reliable option for bath buildings from brick or stone is the construction of a frame from the profile used for drywall (read: "How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands"). The CD ceiling profile is often chosen, and edging along the perimeter of the walls is taken from the UD heading profile. Step fixation of direct suspensions - from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between profiles must be done less than 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation plate. In wooden baths as a profile use bars.
For hydropara insulation. A heat-resistant material with a foil, impenetrable for moisture and steam is required. The construction market has a large selection of such products. For example, you can purchase foamed foil polypropylene, calculated at a temperature of up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of the room from dampness and reflect the radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. So a layer of a foamer of a thickness of 3 millimeters provides a degree of heat shield as a 150-millimeter bar.
For finishing. Usually laid insulation in a bathhouse under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for final finishes from linden or aspen, since products of their data of wood species are resistant to rotting processes, even at high temperatures are not split, and a long time retain the initial species.

Heat insulation, windows and doors

When a decision is made, how to insulate the bath inside with your own hands, take into account the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance from ceiling overlap and walls. True, the cool floor and the presence of drafts also take a lot of heat.

In order to heat the door leading to the steer, the framing of a thick felt is fixed on it, which will reliably cover the gaps. Frames made of wood at the windows located in the steam room, the pre-banker and the washer, are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms it is not necessary to be afraid that the polymers are subjected to thermal decomposition. For the protection of plastic windows, foam-foam self-adhesive strips are used.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of floor covering. The surface of the flowing floor of the tree is poured clamzite, and the boards are mounted on top of the aluminous swelling.

Begin to equip the concrete flowing floor with digging a depth of 50 centimeters.

The layers of thermal insulation design are located in the bottom upward direction in the following sequence:

sand -5 centimeters;
foam -20 centimeters;
concrete, mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with foam crumb - 5 centimeters;
waterproofing;
concrete connected to a vermiculite in proportion 1: 1 (so called natural material with low thermal conductivity) -5 centimeters;
reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of filling the foundation, it is necessary to equip a bias. On top of the concrete screed on the lags, the boarded flooring is mounted.

In the case when a solid floor covering is needed, the heat-insulating material of a layer of 10-20 centimeters is placed on top of the draft base, it can be minvat or foam. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to make the walls on the walls. On top of this layer, the reinforced tie tie with a height of 5-10 centimeters is mounted.

Then, as a rule, put the tile. Despite the fact that in the steam room, the tile does not heat up to high temperature, it is desirable to provide for the presence of wooden footrests so that the bath visit is more enjoyable.

Arrangement of heat protection walls and ceiling

The insulation of the walls and ceiling overlap of the bath from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, while special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying a layer of vapor barrier.

Stage first - creating a crate. The order, how to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside, assumes that the distance from the crate to the base of the wall or ceiling overlap must be made slightly more than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When applying galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted using suspensions, and the bar is nourisled by lining, it may be a segment of a bar. Galvanized suspensions also involve galvanized suspensions.

Profile fastening sequence:

On the perimeter of the walls or the ceiling, the UD guide profile is fixed, observing a 60-centimeter step. It is assembled by bruus or logs with self-drawers, and to brick or concrete walls - screws with plastic dowels.
Make the markup of the CD profile axes, given the fact that the gap between them should allow to lay the plates of the heat insulator without performing trimming. Then the suspensions are fixed to the wall, observing step 60-80 centimeters.
To install and fix CD profiles to suspensions, tapping screws for metal of 9 millimeters. Free edges of the suspensions need to be hooked.

Stage second - Installation of insulation. Basalt cotton wool is placed between bars (profiles). Similarly, insulation of a ventilated facade or loggias. Work should be done in the respirator (marlevant) and special glasses. The fact is that small fibers of this material have volatility and, hitting the human mucosa, are strongly annoyed.

For cutting plates use a standard sharp knife. Fit the insulation in the installation process should not be. Regarding how it is better to insulate the bath, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the less the volume, the worse there will be its heat-insulating qualities.

Stage Third - Device Parohydrozolation. The material stripes in the horizontal direction are reinforced from the bottom up, observing the 5-centimeter nash. The foil side of the insulation should be pushed inside the room.

The method of fixing the pair-hydro insulation depends on the material from which the lamp is made. So, before heating the steam room in a bath from a log, you need to stock up the construction stapler. In the presence of a galvanized profile, the strip is fixed with bilateral aluminum scotch.

To create high-quality vaporizolation, the insulation not only needs to be fixed, all the existing joints should sample all the same scotch. Then the moisture will not be able to penetrate the insulation.

Stage fourth - clapboard lining. To make the room cozy and beautiful after the completion of insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First prepare the tools and the necessary materials for the work, including:

disk saw or electric jigsaw;
drill - screwdriver;
raspil (needed when fitting and processing the edge of the lining);
construction Association (required for planet markup);
level and plumb (they are in demand when checking verticals and horizontals);
metal kleimers for fixing wooden lining;
screws are copper or galvanized, which are needed for fastening kleimers to Brukes;
metal screws;
tree plinths for finishing the corners.

When working, you need to consider a number of moments:

There should be a small gap between the lining and layer of the parohydrozolation. In addition, the lumens (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are equipped at the edges of the ceiling, as well as, in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

Extreme boards in each row of lining should be attached to the screws through, and their caps will close the plinth. All other boards will be held at the expense of kleimers.

The above-described procedure for holding work allows you to warm up the old bath from the inside and absolutely new building. The heat-stash of the bath structure is a very responsible stage, since the effectiveness of the fee of the steam is depends on its quality. The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result exceeds expectations.

Frequently on Russia, the insulation of the walls of the baths was made exclusively with natural materials: felt went to move, flax and moss, which occasionally used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - it loves to remove the birds and mice, and the insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skills. Where better modern synthetic materials are more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of the bath seems simple question, but in fact here are a lot of nuances. And the more you will know about it, the warmer and safer will be your bath.

Inside a bath for security reasons for human health, it is better to warm up exceptionally natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And from moisture it will protect the heat-reflecting waterproofing films, which are stitched from the eye with a clapboard.

Features of the warming of walls from the log

It would seem why in the log structures insulation of the walls - the bath after all when laying it looks quite hermetically? The fact is that such a building material, like a log house, is peculiar to shrinkage, from which serious gaps are formed. And through them, the cold air penetrates directly into the pair of room - which is absolutely not in favor of health, nor for finance in terms of unnecessary spending on fuel. Therefore, such a bath must be insulated, and the most effective way is an interventic caulkite.

All you need to do is lay out the insulation even during the construction of a cut, and at the end of the construction to process the junction of neighboring logs or BRUSEV. After that, fibers are stuffed - a hammer and pantry, and the seams are processed by sealant.

Technology of the process of insulation of frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath bundle is more intricately - here you already need your own methods. After all, high loads and special weight such a design can not withstand, and therefore everything should be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. Insulation can only be used by what little weight. And the foam as an outdoor insulation is simply indispensable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is easy and attached by the usual construction glue.

The warming of walls from the inside in the bath looks like this:

Step 1. On the bearing wall creates a framework.
Step 2. The walls are trimmed with insulation.
Step 3. The insulation is fastened with waterproofing materials - a foil layer or at least polyethylene film. It is necessary to sharpen them to be a mustache, but all the joints are closed with thin slats.
Step 4. Everything is trimmed by boards or lining - that's all things.

As an option - use special PPU plates.

Wall insulation outside - how to kill a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to warm the baths not only inside, but also outside - to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce the costs of fuel. And more high-quality external thermal insulation is a significant reduction in fuel consumption, moisture control and mold guarantee and unpleasant odor. After all, the main task of the outer insulation of the bath is a shelter of building structures, protect them from contact with cold air and atmospheric precipitation.

Next, how to insulate the walls in a brick bath and a different kind of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sidding siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.

But as a heat insulator for such a "cake", the old good mineral wool is most suitable: environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproofing and has low thermal conductivity. The very process of insulation looks like this:

Step 1. The brackets that are made in the form of squares are attached. Between them - a step per centimeter is less than the width of the insulation matte.
Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares that need to be purchased with elastic, capable of withstanding considerable pressure.
Step 3. The remaining joints between the plates are sampled by construction tape and poured with adhesive composition.
Step 4. The walls are covered with a rolled waterproofer, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
Step 5. Now - installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for cladding.

By the way, there were already universal materials on the modern market, performing two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil foam-foam polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and levsan with metal spraying. It can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates a really effective insulation of the bath.

Often, a brick is used as a constructive material for construction of a bath. Many believe that the brick construction does not need additional sealing, but it is no more than the myth. This material has a high thermal conductivity, which makes a bath-protected from the penetration of cold air, so the insulation of the brick bath is a necessity.

To warm the bath, like any brick structure in two ways:

From the inside
Outside

Each of the ways is good. Construction simply do not exist perfect solutions. Therefore, in details, consider each of the options so that any owner can choose what is best for him.

From the inside

It is clear that insulation from the inside implies the attachment of the insulation to the construction material inside the room.

Pros of this method:

From the inside you can warm the bath in the process of reconstruction or repair
There is no dependence on weather conditions. Internal insulation can be produced in any free time for the builder.
It is saved by an externally aesthetic look of brickwork.

The method also has a number of minuses:

The inner area of \u200b\u200bthe room is significantly reduced.
Internal insulation always works worse than external, other things being equal
For internal warming will have to more carefully choose insulating materials. Outdoor air is absolutely anyway, which substances or particles are allocated to it. But no one wants to breathe phenols, which allocate mineral wool insulation on a glass basis.

It is worth noting that from the inside the baths insulate much more often than outside.

Outside

Outside, insulation is always more efficient, but this method implies the arrangement of the ventilated facade. The ventilated facade means the stitching of the house by siding, which is not always suited by the owner.

If we are talking about a bath, then the inner space will still have to warm and water in order to protect the brick from the aggressive steam room. The permanent cycle of heating and cooling simply will destroy the brick in 2-3 years. Therefore, protection is simply necessary. By the aggregate of these reasons, most of the owners prefers to insulate the bath from the inside.

Of course, you can take care of the combined insulation of the complex. That is just this means double expenses at a minimum of real benefits. And any insulation should be as cheap. Because few people want to spend huge amounts when the main part of the building has already been built.

Selection of material for insulation

To materials for insulation baths are particular requirements, including:

Non-hatching. In the steam room, there are always elevated temperatures, so it is desirable that the insulation makes the property to withstand temperatures up to 100 degrees. Of course, in the steam room rarely, the temperature rises above 70, but it is better to be restrained.
Ecology. Some insulation when exposed to elevated temperatures are not lit, but harmful substances are distinguished. It is unacceptable for any interior, and not just for the bath.
Moisture resistance. In addition to high temperatures, in the bath constantly high humidity. This is a problem that is often solved by various kinds of protective films. But ideally, the insulation itself should also relax in high humidity.
Untitable to operate. There are insulation that come into disrete during operation at an accelerated cycle. Meaning constant heating and cooling. For a bath, several such cycles can pass the day, and therefore insulation materials should be distinguished by stability.

You need to navigate the price and ease of installation. Any insulation must be as cheap as possible. Consider specific materials that are used for internal insulation baths:

Foamglass. Good material that does not require additional vaporizolation. Even on the contrary, when using foam glass, it is necessary to solve the level of ventilation of the inner surface of the brickwork, in order to prevent the advent of the fungus on the brick.
Basal mineral wool. The most popular material for the insulation of any designs. Of course, basal mineral wool requires additional hydro and vaporizolation, but is easy to install and has a democratic price tag.
Equata. This is an advertising hit of a new generation. Advertising often use the eco-friendly console to put forward the goods to a new level. On the fact of Equata is a foamed cellulose with a different kind of impregnation, which should minimize the risk of fire and exposure to pests. Fire hazard is obtained downward as a result of processing to the brand G2 and yet, it is extremely recommended to use eco-water to insulate the bath.
Organic insulation. The most common organic insulation for the bath: sawdust. Their use is justified low-cost and absolute environmental friendliness. But insulation sawdust - the process is extremely long. In addition, there is a possibility of fire, so it is better to refrain from the use of the organications.

Foamwall - material for insulation of a brick bath

Technology of thermal insulation do it yourself

Let's talk about the thermal insulation of each individual part of the bath.

Wall insulation

Wall insulation always begins with waterproofing. Water should not get on the inner surface of the brickwork, otherwise the brick will begin to collapse. Therefore, first of all waterproof the surface. The next step is the device of the crate. It is made from the boards, which are installed on the edge parallel to the floor. The width of the board is desirable to pick up taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Separately, tell me why the board is used for the crate, and not metal? The metal profile is as easy to install, and it can easier to work with metal guides at all. Everything is true, that's just for the steam room, each saved percentage of heat is important, and each metal section is the possibility of heat leakage. These are the so-called cold bridges, through which watts are dried out. Therefore, it is better to use wood for crate, which has a much smaller thermal conductivity coefficient.

The next step is the laying of the insulation. The insulation must be laid tight, not leaving the slots between the board and mats. Through the insulation, vaporizolation is stacked, which is then closed with a clapboard or any other facing material. There must be a ventilation gap between cladding and vaporizolation, the vaporizolation becomes simply useless.

Through the ceiling there is a hot air that pops up over cold. The main danger to the ceiling is the soaking of the insulation. After the rough surface is naked, the heat protection process begins.

Lags thoroughly wrapped with a waterproof film. You can put the joint film into the joint using special tape. Out of mineral wool mats are stacked. It is better to use a double layer of mats for the ceiling, overlapping the slots between the two mats with the upper layer. This will reduce heat loss and create a small ventilation gap between the two layers of the insulation. Instead of mineral wool slabs, you can make all the space rolls. In this case, you need to ensure that there are no joints between the rolls.

The insulation is closed by a vapor insulating membrane, and after the boards are shaped. At this, the ceiling insulation is complete, but it is impossible to forget that when the chimney is passed through the ceiling, it is necessary to separately equip the cutter with the insulation, and the wall has a protective screen on the wall.

Floor heat

The brick bath is usually built on a tape foundation. This means that under the floor there will be cold earth. Therefore, insulation should be started before the device of the black floor surface. To begin with, equalize the Earth. Ideally, it is necessary to make a layer:

Large stone
Crusheden
Sand

But most often used simply sand from which the leveling pillow is 20 cm with a thickness of 20 cm. After that, the sand is covered with a cutting film. Separate attention should be paid to the edges of the film: they must be on the wall 20-30 cm. Next step: Flooding of clamzit and floor screed device.

Lags are installed directly on the screed, which are covered with waterproofing. The space between the lags is laid by the insulation plates.

The hydro and vaporizolation film is reinforced, which is covered with a draft wooden floor surface.

The floor arranged in this way will not miss moisture and will not cause huge heat losses.

Warm steamed

Separately, we note the insulation of the steam room. In fact, it is most often not necessary to allocate a steam room into a separate heat protection scheme. It is enough to create the same insulation throughout the perimeter of the bath. But this concerns only small baths of about 4x4 meters. If the bath has large sizes, it is required to take additional measures:

Hydro and parainovation is laid by a double layer
When the floor, an additional layer of waterproofing is laid between the draft and rough surface.
The insulation is better stacked in 2 layers of the same thickness as throughout the bath. That is, the stove is taken twice as long as thickness and stacked in two layers.

Separately, it is necessary to note the need to arrange ventilation in the steam room. As a rule, the stove at the bottom is the influx, and under the ceiling exhaust. The most primitive embodiment and tributary option is a pipe in the wall with a duct cross section regulator. However, the use of brick makes it possible to equip an exhaust to the roof, which will reduce heat loss with the outgoing air.

As can be seen, there is nothing complicated in the insulation of the brick bath. The main thing is to purchase the required material in advance and try to make all the work in one stage, without distracting anything else. Otherwise, there are practically no difficulties, the main thing: patience and attentiveness.

Read in the article

Warming of a brick bath

When choosing a material for the construction of a bath, many stop their choice on a capital brick building, which is faithful to the truth last years. And it is not by chance. Brick walls are not afraid of various insects, which are glad to eat wood fibers in a bath from a bar or from logs, are not subject to rotting, do not swell under the influence of moisture and do not lose heat in summer from solar radiation.

But there are brick walls and its cons. These include:

large own weight;
high thermal conductivity.

And if the first drawback is solved by creating a reliable belt or a bar foundation, then the second requires a thorough device of thermal insulation to maintain heat indoor steam room.

Which side to insult - from the inside or outside?

Before considering possible options for insulation used, you need to figure it out - to insulate the walls of the bath outside or from the inside?

How to insulate the walls?

After we decided on which side brick walls should be insulated, let's see what can be used for insulation and what the whole insulation "pie" looks like.

In ancient times, the most different material - flax, moss, hemp, felt used for insulation of the walls in the bath. As you understand, the service life of such insulation was small. Materials of plant origin were dismantled, rotted insects and came into disrepair, and often the reason was the reason for the fire of the bath, as they broke out from the slightest sparks.

But progress does not stand still and today in the industrial way there are many items of insulation of the most different chemical composition. It is glass gamble, and wool from basalt fiber and polystyrene foam and polyurethane-based insulation.

The figures in the picture indicate:

Wall insulation plates Rockwool

One of the most simple ways to reliably insulate the walls of the bath is the use of special plates Rockwool "Sauna Batts", manufactured specifically for the insulation of the sauna and bath.

The insulation is stacked between them, after which the seams between the plates are sampled with a special metallic scotch, which prevents moisture in the insulation layer.

Wall insulation Eco-style

Another type of modern materials is increasingly used as a heater for brick walls - Eco.

If the eco-board is made in accordance with the technology, it is a high-enecual ethopyl, which is not afraid of any water or water does not support the spread of mold and fungus and can serve for many years.

The only thing that should be remembered when buying is not to save and acquire the insulation from unknown dealers, since under the guise of eco-plates, it is possible to simply buy a grinding waste paper that is completely incomprehensible and small part of the claimed characteristics.

So that the heat does not leave the steam room, you should take care not only about the insulation of the walls, but also think about the insulation of the floor.

Ceiling warming steam room

It should also be paid to the insulation of the ceiling steam room so that hot air remained as long as possible indoors. . When the ceiling overlap warming should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard is a hot tube, passing through the design of the overlap, around which it is necessary to organize reliable insulation from non-combustible material.

The location of the passage is called the ceiling cutting. As a rule, the pipe passage node through the overlap is a container filled with non-combustible material with a low thermal conductivity coefficient.

As you can see, the insulation of the walls of the brick bath is not more difficult than that of the baths from the logs or from the bar. By completing the recommendations given in the article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

Warming of a brick bath

What to insulate brick walls? Why better use stone wool? What are the cons of foam? All answers in one article!

A source:

Wall insulation of brick bath

It is time to move to the most important thing: to the insulation of brick walls. To do this, it is necessary to tune in to the fact that the bath "will lose" a significant internal space. It is just necessary to make it easily along the brick bearing walls, extra wooden. That is, make the finish finish with lining, vaporizoation, warming itself, waterproofing and leave the ventilation gap between the brick and insulation. Now about it in more detail.

Installation of vertical bars

Wooden bars with a thickness of 40-50 mm are mounted vertically on brick walls. Previously, they should be treated with an antiseptic of deep penetration, as they will be operated in her rigid conditions, especially in winter. The distance between them is 60-80 cm. Then the waterproofing film is attached to these bars. All joints are sickling with scotch.

After that, neatly, without breaking the film, a wooden frame is collected for the insulation itself. The thickness of the frame depends on the climatic latitudes: if the warm moderate is enough 50 mm, if the stern, cold, then 100 mm is already necessary. The frame is going to comply with the size of the insulated insulation. The optimal option is the mineral basalt wool rocvul, especially if it is in the form of plates and has a reflective foil.

Having gathered the carcass and putting the insulation in it, it is worth taking care of the vaporizolation of the bath. To do this, on top of the insulation laid a foil layer. For example, it's perfectly suitable "foaming". Only all the joints must also be glued with a tape for greater sealing of the insulation.

Then, neatly, without damaging vapor barrier, the wooden bars with a thickness of 25-30 mm are attached. And the final finish is mounted on them - lining or. Now you can list all the layers of the Pie, which was just done, starting with brick walls and ending with the finish finish:

Brick walls
Wooden bars
Layer of waterproofing
Wooden frame and in it insulation
Layer of vaporizolation
Wooden bars
Decorative finish

It should be noted that between the brick wall and the insulation there is a 40-50 mm ventilation gap. on the thickness of the bars. There is also an air layer between the lining and the insulation of 25-30 mm. In a word, the overall thickness of the warmed wall, not counting the brickwork, will be 20-25 cm. It will very much affect the inner areas of the room.

Bruks on the brick were fixed vertically not just like that. This is due to the fact that if in the bubble frost, the walls will accidentally "pay", water flowing down on them will be downhill. Although the correct warming of the bath should not be allowed. Even for the same reason, special products are made at the bottom of the walls for "respiration" and eliminate condensate.

How to insulate floors and ceilings will not consider here. These activities are carried out on the usual and standard scheme. But who is interested, on the site there are relevant articles.

From the above, it can be seen that the insulation of a bath of a brick, a fairly costly event, both in terms of materials and in terms of physical work. To achieve good results, you will have to work long and hardly. But, only in this way the insulation of the bath from the inside will be correct and productive.

Wisdom quote: Apathy and laziness - True freezing of the soul and body.

Warming of brick baths methods and materials used

The selection of bricks as a building material for the bath is a great way to simultaneously solve several tasks: make the design maximum strength and durability, achieve the ideal geometry of the walls, and also excellently preserve heat. but heat-saving quality bricks Not so good to ensure the comfort of bath procedures in severe frosts. Therefore, even a brick bath may necessarily require additional insulation.

The inner surface of the walls

Procedure for mounting insulation

wooden clapboard.

floor laying technology:

Wall insulation from the outside

When the use of thermal insulation in the form of mats Based on mineral wool, the work technology will be somewhat different:

metal profile and corners are constructed a dory, fastening with a dowel to the outer surface of the wall;

Meanwhile, for insulation of brick baths it is quite possible to apply foam sheets. Order of work when insulating bath foam heat insulating material Will be:

the surface of the brickwork is exempt from all types of pollution;

Heat ceiling

Through the ceiling with poor quality heat insulation, it can leave to a quarter of all heat produced by the stove

Therefore, to reduce losses to the insulation of the ceiling, no less attention should be paid than in the case of the walls. The most appropriate isolating material for target data is light and non-combustible fiberglass

Works on the warming ceiling in the bath Produced as follows:

on the boards of ceiling overlap, the canvas or mats of fiberglass are laid out;

How to insulate the steam room

Procedure for the insulation of the ceiling in the steam It will be the following.

The entire surface of the ceiling is closed with rolled paper. In the joints of the joints you need to create an adhesive at 10-20 cm.

Similarly, fastening foil and to the surfaces of the walls in the steam room.

In general, the process of insulation of a brick bath does not cause special difficulties even from masters without extensive experiences of such work.

Inner Wall insulation Bath

Consider options how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Creating a second wall

Most often, the second walls are emitted inside the brick box. The material serves a bar-ten, which in itself warm material and does not allocate harmful components when heated.

Mount the cake as follows:

The brick is stuffed.
The crate is fixed with waterproofing film.
Mount the brusade walls.
They are picked up the second crate.
Close the bar fiberglass, fixing it to the grade stapler. Between the bars, the fiberglass crates do not stretch, but they make a look so that it is easy to put the insulation.
Insert plates of the insulation between the crate.
To protect the thermal insulator from the inner pair, it is covered with a foil or vapor barrier film.
The latter is stuffing the lining.

Foil to the crate is fixed with a construction staple, without pulling close

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness must be at least 10 cm. For the insulation of the bath, thermal insulators are chosen, which at hot temperatures will not be distinguished by harmful substances. For this, basalt or fiberglass insulation are optimally suitable, who are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the bar with polystyrene foam materials, then it is better to choose a penplex. It has higher resistance to high temperatures than polyfoam, and in the event of a fire, this insulation has a self-coaling property. But the insulation of the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrene is still not doing. With severe warming (over 100 degrees), they will begin charring and highlight toxins. For the wage it is worth taking only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering the options, how to insulate a brick bath can be stopped on creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of the brusal walls, an additional 10-centimeter insulation is laid into the crate.

Wall cake will look like this:

Brick.
Waterproofing.
Obsek.
Insulation.
Waterproofing.
The second lap.
Fiberglass.
Insulation.
Parosolation.
Lining.

The thickness of the internal insulation cake will be about 22 cm.

When selecting insulation, the first layer (closer to the brick) linse the extruded polystyrene foam. It is not afraid of moisture, so the external pairs falling through the brick for him are not dangerous. The second, the inner layer of the insulation choose, taking into account the room in which you will hold. In all rooms, except for steam room, it is worth closing with foligizated penplex. This foamed material on one side is covered with a thin layer of foil, which will simultaneously reflect the IR rays and becomes a barrier for internal vapors.

Foligized materials are joined with each other with aluminum scotch

For the wage, it is better to choose a basalt insulation, and close on top of it with a special foil for baths. So you will avoid excretion of harmful substances with a strong warming of the room. Shakes in foolized insulation and foil are stuck with special aluminum scotch.

Features of the material

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from a general-purpose polystyrene. Modern equipment allows material with an ordered structure in which small gas bubbles are evenly distributed. Such isolated and fully closed microscopic cavities are of size about 0.1-0.2 mm. The reagent for foaming is easy types of freon with the introduction of carbon dioxide in them.

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from a general-purpose polystyrene

By nature, the PESEROPLEX has chemical inertness, which eliminates its oxidation or rotting. The main purpose of the development of this material is to ensure high thermal insulation capacity with low water absorption and very high compressive strength. Important characteristic - good manufacturability, i.e. It is easy to cut and bend, which allows you to use it in hard-to-reach places.

As is known, the thermal insulation characteristics of any foamed or porous material are sharply decreasing under the influence of moisture, which is absolutely not peculiar to the pennect. A small water imaging is observed only the first 7-8 days, when the moisture fills the cells located at the surface. In the future, water penetration stops, and initial saturation is little effect on the heat-insulating capacity

Moreover, it is necessary to note the impermeability for steam, which is very important for bath conditions.

The main form of outlet of the slab: Width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm

The material is divided into 3 groups:

Polyoplexstandart.
Penoplex 45.

Its species are characterized by specific density, mechanical strength and heat resistance. Floor insulation in the penplex bath is carried out by the first 2 types of material.

On a note! Penoplex 45 has increased mechanical strength and is intended for floors where significant load and vibration is possible.

The main form of outlet of the plate: Width is 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm. Losts are very popular with a thickness of 10-12 cm. The standard slab length is 120 and 240 cm, in special cases it is possible to apply a material with a length of 4 or 4.5 m.

How to insulate a steam room in a brick bath

Beginners builders mistakenly suggest that the construction of the bath ends on the construction of the walls and the installation of the furnace. But so that the wage was warm, quickly heated and slowly cooled, it must be upgraded - insulate. Many declare that the brick construction does not need additional sealing due to the wonderful properties of the brick, but it is nothing more than the myth. Competently insulated bath from the inside is much warmer.

The whole process consists of three main phases of insulation:

It is in this sequence that we will look at all the warming of the steam room in a brick bath.

Warm floor

To make the floor warm, it is necessary to carry out heat, steam, waterproofing

Here it is important to comply with two fundamental rules :. When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties

He must skip steam, and not create a greenhouse effect. In such a bath it will be very uncomfortable.

When choosing a insulation, pay attention to its properties. He must skip steam, and not create a greenhouse effect. In such a bath it will be very uncomfortable.
Stay all the layers of insulation tightly to each other, not allowing the appearance of even minor gaps and holes.

We will not torment you long reasoning about possible insulation, let's say that the foam is the perfect option for the insulation of the foundation. It is durable and allows you to increase the life and characteristics of the base. To protect against high humidity, clamzit is most often used. This material copes perfectly with its "duties" and significantly reduces costs. The conscientious waterproofing cannot be thin, the layer thickness must be 1.5-2 times greater than the wall.

The procedure for performing thermal insulation:

lay the hypostatic layer;
stool thick foam sheets, well observing dimension;
i reinforce and tighten the floor of the fill;
stelim Paul.

Now it remains only to wait until the solution is captured and you can move to the next step.

We heat insulating walls

So that the process is not troublesome and enjoyable, it is necessary to take care of this at the construction stage. The steam room is installed in the steamer, which is fixed by heat and materials. Thus, you protect the insulation from deformation and climbing during operation. If you decide to stop your choice on a bulk version, do not forget to fall asleep the gaps.

In order for the bath to be really warm, carry out thermal insulation in several occurrences, giving to grab and dry the limestone solution. If you choose on the plates, then put them between the trim and the wall. Most often, foaming is used for insulation inside. One of his sides is covered with a foil, which reflects heat, warms the bath much faster. In addition, the foil insulation has undeniable advantages. It is withstanding large temperatures and does not destroy from sharp drops, does not miss moisture.

If finances are limited or you could not find this material, then you can stay on the mineral wool. But the savings here are false, since in addition to the wool, you will have to spend money on the purchase of waterproofing material.

After that, we make the walls of the walls inside the bath. As a trim, natural material is used - wood.

Warm ceiling

Physical processes are forced to be very carefully approaching the heat insulation of the ceiling. Since hot air is easier and rises to the top, then it is impossible to allow its outlet ceiling slots. There is no strong difference in the insulation of the ceiling from the walls, the only thing that needs to be done is more carefully and used together both bulk and tiled material. Use the same material as a plating as for walls. The single style of the room will create a cozy atmosphere.

Floor insulation in the bath

The floor in the bath is usually done from a wooden board or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washer and in the steam room. Floor insulation technology depends on the main material.

For the insulation of concrete floor, clamzite (3-5 mm) is most often used, extruded polystyrene or boiler slag. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation is understood by 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be aligned and clean from the construction trash and dust. Next, an adhesive composition of 2-3 layers is applied to the surface. Most often, special mastic applies for this, for example, rubber-concrete. The oilproofer is placed on the adhesive composition - polyethylene of increased strength or rubberoid.

After the waterproofer grabbies, the insulation laying begins. On top of it, the adhesive composition is applied again to which the waterproofer is stacked. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, a thickness of at least 30 mm. Concrete must be aligned and how to dry. The finishing finish of such a gender is usually done with the use of ceramic tiles. Under it you can position the system a warm floor.

For wood insulation, it is necessary to first remove old boards. For the remaining beams, a cranial bar is sown from below. It must be wrapped with rubberoid or superproof polyethylene. On top of the waterproofer stacked a draft flooring. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in the bath isopin? You can, if the floor is wooden and equipped indoors with a low moisture level.

Waterproofing material is superimposed over the insulation. Then the board is stacked for the first floor. At the perimeter of the room attached plinth. The finishing paintwork in this case does not apply, since these materials under the influence of temperature and moisture are distinguished toxins. If desired, the wooden floor can be displayed with special rubberized rugs. They will make the room cozy and will not deliver a lot of trouble during cleaning. The start in the bath is insulated mainly for more user comfort. Over the total temperature inside the bathrooms, the insulation of the floor is influenced slightly.

Correction of insulation and ventilation

Sevets can be removed by special means

Also alone on brickwork are not a problem for the carrier wall, but they may indicate the improper work of the insulation scheme leading to a violation of moisture transfer. In winter, the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of the fluid is intensifying through the thickness of the brick in the direction of the heat to the cold. Internal condensation and capillary stream cause a layer overwhelming in 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At minus temperatures, the overvolding is not striking due to the freezing of the brick from the street. In the spring, the condensate accumulated over winter begins to be intensively released on the surface, bringing with it water-soluble salts.

If the zip is equally formed on all walls, then the causes can be wound as a brick, the composition of the solution, violation of the laying technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on separate walls of the baths and their sites, it makes sense to carry out a revision of the insulation of a sandwich, subject to the elimination of influence on the process of the unsuccessful design of the sings. It is necessary to make it necessary in order to align the operation mode throughout the bearing perimeter to increase the construction resource.

On the wall with intense heights follows:

Add foil insulation

add foil insulation if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects of this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
ensure a ventilated gap between vapor barrier and the main heat insulation;
add exhaust vent hole.

Warming options

Immediately alleged that there are a large number of different ways where different thermal insulation, and not only materials are used. Consider the main options that can be performed with your own hands.

Option number 1

This method of the master is considered the easiest, so it will not be a big problem to spend it. It is based on the process of insulation of walls with thermal insulation materials, which are stacked in the crate of or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

The inner surfaces of the walls should be hydroizing. To do this, it is necessary to align them with plaster or putty, and after drying, it is implanted with coating waterproofing. We recommend using mats based on bitumen. Rarely when the rolled material is used for these purposes.
Next, the walls are stuck from wooden browns, which are pre-treated with antiseptic solution.
Now the insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Tip! The optimal thickness of the thermal insulator for bathrooms is 200 mm. Lock the insulation between the bars is needed in the tension, so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges

Please note that in this case the thickness of the insulation and the width of the bar must be the same.

After that, a vapor insulation membrane is stretched directly on the crate. It is attached to wooden elements using metal brackets. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
And already on the crate of the lining mounted.

Often, experts use double insulation of walls, while two crates with insulation with a thickness of 100 mm are installed. The process is more difficult, but it will not be easy to make it.

If the insulation will be used the penplex, then install the hydro and vaporizolation layers is not needed. But it's better not to give up from the crate. This is the basis for which the lining will be mounted.

Option number 2.

The second way of insulation of a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only a wooden with a thermal insulation layer. For this brick, a frame of wooden plates is installed.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. This decides everyone himself. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the frame elements:

Now the crate is stretched and the waterproofing membrane is attached.
Next, the second wall is constructed. It is most often elevated from wooden browns with a cross section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall should fit tightly to each other. Such thickness of the wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
But now you need to decide whether it is worth using an additionally insulation or not. If "yes", then the new wall is assembled, where the heat insulator is laid. On top of the crates there is a parobarrier or a foil rolled material. If there is no need for insulation, then the lamp is mounted anyway, only from the racks of a small thickness. From above the frame is stretched by waterproofing material.
And the last stage is the trim of the walls with a clapboard.

Tip! In the bath there is a fairly large number of different premises carrying its purely purpose. So in all rooms in addition to steam room as a heater, any thermal insulation materials can be used. You can not use the steam insulation with a foil layer.

The order of thermal protection ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bathrooms without ceiling insulation in them

This is especially important to do when they are located in a single-storey building.

The sequence of performing work in the arrangement of thermal protection ceiling overlap in the bath is as follows:

From above on the ceiling laid fiberglass, placing the strip of the material of the Vanest. They are connected to each other using tape or adhesive tape.
On top of the insulation, a solution is laying, mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
A layer of foam layer is placed on the clay solution, and then a cement mixture is poured on it with a thickness of about 10 centimeters.
To improve the thermal insulation indicators of the bath structure, it is possible to add a foam crumb to a mass of cement, observing the proportion of 1: 3, and even better 1: 4.
For the black surface of the ceiling from within the bars of crates, placing basalt cotton battles between them in the plates.
On top of the heat-insulating product, the foil film is filling, and it is cut from above with a clapboard, observing a 10-millimeter gap between the elements.

The general rule of the bath is insisted from the inside

When building residential buildings, the main thermal insulation is mounted outside, but in the construction of the bath the case is exactly the opposite. And the thing is that the bath is used (heated) periodically, while the house is heated almost year-round.

Therefore, for a bath becomes relevant to the preservation of the formed internal heat, given to the stove, without transmitting it outside.

If you make an external insulation, you will first warm up the structures of the structure (walls, floor, ceiling), and after their heating will begin to warm the air indoors. In this case, the bath will need to be dried for a very long time, which in turn entails an increased consumption of firewood. For more information about the insulation of the bath from the inside.

Scheme

Warming the bath outside with your own hands (if all the same decided)

If you believe that internal warming will not be enough, or just want to extend the battery life as much as possible, then you can also go and external thermal insulation.
External insulation will increase the high temperature retention time inside the bath and reduce the cost of maintaining it.

Due to the fact that when installing external thermal insulation, finishing (finishing) materials will be required, then you will additionally protect your construction from the effects of natural phenomena: fog, rain and snow. What protects the bath from excessive humidity and extends its service life.

The material from which the bath is built, affects the choice of insulation and the nature of the upcoming work.

Baths, erected from the log (calibrated or ordinary), require picky processing (permanent) of all cracks and cracks. To do this, you can use: sphagnum, jute or pass, lying as natural and environmentally friendly materials, or you can use a special sealant on wood.

If the material of the wall is a bar, then such a bath requires a sufficiently serious insulation: for example, mineral wool on a framework from the rails, using wind-and steam-shields and subsequent finishing finish (lining, siding, block house, etc.).

Brick baths or baths made of foam or slag blocks, foam concrete, etc., mandatory should be insulated. All these materials have high thermal conductivity, which in a cold climate can cause high heat loss.

According to the requirements for insulation, it is similar to the baths from a bar, but the total thickness of the walls should be at least 80 cm. As a heater, polystyrene foam plates, foam or foamed glass can also be applied.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

Procedure for mounting insulation On the interior walls will be as follows:

on a brick wall of wooden plays, a carrier frame is built;
the resulting cells are laid thermal insulation material. In addition to mineral wool, more modern materials can be applied with great success. For example, foil foam is not only absolutely insensitive to the effects of moisture and temperature of several hundred degrees, but due to the shiny foil surface, the foil is able to reflect heat back to the bathroom;
the entire design is closed with a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene, foil, etc. To ensure complete moisture resistance, the waterproofing material should be laid with the overlap at 10-20 cm. To make additional strength connections, all joints should be fixed with thin and flat wooden slats.

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed wooden clapboard.

In addition to the walls, the internal thermal insulation of the brick bath should include and events to reduce heat loss through the floors. The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

on the black floor peeled and dirt and contamination, a layer of vaporizolation is stacked;
lined and recorded in one way or another heat-insulating mats;
stacked a layer of waterproofing;
it is equipped with a finishing floor from the most wide boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

It is very important to take into account the material from which the draft floor is made. If it is formed by boards, they will need to handle them in advance to prevent wood rotting.
. The concrete black floor itself is capable of playing the role of thermal insulation

Therefore, at the stage of its arrangement, it is necessary to take care of the attachment of heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

in the pit, the layer of the sand thick of about 5-10 cm is trambed;
the solid heat insulator is placed (foam);
a mixture of cement, sand and crushed foam plastic is falling asleep;
the regurgid sheets are stacked;
the reinforcement grid is lifted;
a solution of concrete is poured with the addition of rubble small fraction;
at an altitude of 10-20 cm, a finishing milking floor is created.

The resulting design is beneficial by what it is ventilated. And this means a significant increase in service life as a clean floor, so the heat-insulating concrete base under it.

How to insulate the floor in the bath? The answer to this question, you will find out by reading this article.

And in this article, read about the insulation of the roof of the bath.

Floor insulation

The brick bath shows its thoroughness that the owner does not intend to be limited to warm days to get in it. And this means that of all types of floors at his disposal only:

concrete;
dry wooden;
pouring on a concrete tie.

All of them need insulation, only a bit different.

Dry wooden floor It consists of rough and clean, between which there is a gap to the height of the ceiling beam. This space is filled with insulation. The best foamed polystyrene foam - it is not afraid of moisture. Minvata and Ceramzit need a hydrobrier before laying a first floor. It is also possible to insulate an eco-art and foam Aysin. Alternatively, you can fall asleep and space under the draft floor with a clay, but for this you need to water the soil in advance.

Concrete floor on the ground or concrete screed under a pouring floor They are insulated equally:

The soil is removed by half.
The future flow of water is stacked - the pit / ladder and tubes outside.
Fuck 15 cm gravel and trambed.
Then 35 cm of sand and trambed.
This "pillow" is hermetically closed by rubberoid.
Clamping a layer of insulation: Minvati, ceramisit, slag, felt with tar.
Closed by a hydrobarier if the insulation is wetting.
The reinforcing grid is stacked.
A concrete screed is poured with the desired slope towards the drain.

Find out more:

Heat insulation

The floors in the bath make wooden or concreted. The technology for applying the insulation of large differences depending on the material of the floor manufacturing does not have.

The only thing that the device of the concrete structure should be pouring an increased layer of clay. At the same time, its thickness is made to compare from the width of the walls, and pour, about two times a thicker layer.

If the insulation of the floor is carried out on the soil (in the case of a belt foundation), then you need to do the following:

Process walls with a preparation for waterproofing;
Pouring the sand with a thickness of 10 cm, shed it with water and tamper;
Hold this layer rubberoid with a 15 cm in the walls.

And then fall asleep clamzit.

Floor insulation scheme in a brick bath

Heat ceiling

The imposition of the heat insulating layer on the ceiling is essentially the same as on the walls. It should only be borne in mind some features. Since hot air tends to upwards, the heat insulation layer is thicker than on the walls. This is usually achieved by a subtype to the ceiling coating, and the foil cannon and facing material is laid inside.

How to insulate the floor

Significant heat loss in the bath occurs not only through the ceiling and walls, but through the floor, especially when the bath is used in the cold season - in winter, in the fall, early spring.

To figure out how and the better to warm the floor in the bath, you should remember that the order of laying the floor cake must be strictly observed. An earth floor should be loosen, clean from garbage and foreign objects and dissolve. On the prepared surface you need to fill the screed of concrete.

On the clutched concrete you need to lay a layer of rolled waterproofer. It can be rubberoid or polyethylene film.

Next, the entire surface is laid out with a layer of heat insulator. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then the rubberoid or polyethylene reinstall. The final layer is a concrete screed.

Laying of all floor cake layers should be carefully

Especially need to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - it will retain the integrity of all materials. Correctly conducted internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for the right use of the bath and maintain heat

Material

Building materials can be divided into structural (steel, concrete, brick, stone) and thermal insulation, which have low strength and specific weight, but they are well delayed warm.

The indicators of thermal conductivity and specific gravity are interconnected.

That is why almost all thermal insulators have a porous design, swim in water and often combat.

The insulation of the brick bath walls can be carried out by any thermal insulators that are allowed for use in the internal work.

The choice of material is carried out be sure to insulate the brick bath. The desired material is indicated in the project.

Here is an approximate list:

Polyfoam (foamed poilstyrol). Moisture demands, the better suitable for the bath, thermal conductivity is very low. The proportion of about 25 kg cubic meters. The main drawback is a fire-hazardous and non-ecological material;
Mineral wool. It rarely applies in the baths, since even after one-time wetting, it is irreversible "sits" in volume. With good thermal insulation in the baths can be applied. Advantage in combination with brick walls - absolute fire resistance;
Basalt plates. On many properties are close to mineral wool. Safer for humans;
Organic insulation: moss, straw, sawdust. Now they are almost no applied, but as a spare option is often used;
Organic factory manufacturers, such as porous cellulose plates. Their main advantage is environmental friendliness. For the bath a good option;
PPU foamon. Basically goes to insulation of pipes. In rare cases, they are insulated at home and baths. It is possible both the use of finished elements and PPU spraying from a foam generator;
Other polymeric insulation, brands of which many: pepoplex, foamed polyethylene, magnesium oxide on acrylic resin;

The insulation can be non-aggravated as the rest of the brick bath. How to insulate walls and ceiling - is determined by the budget and general project. Of all the options for the bath, the most commonly used foam (only he has excellent moisture resistance) and basalt plates.

Both materials are produced in the form of flat plates.

To install them on the walls, the floor and the ceiling always require a grille frame.

The insulation itself is fragile, fuzzy keeps the shape, and over its layer should be a durable outer surface (for example, a bath lining).

Combining these two layers is provided by the frame. Warming with any slab materials at similar technology.

This is the installation of the slab frame sliced \u200b\u200bunder the size of the cell, as well as their adhesive fix.

Almost any plates are fastened with glue: foam, basalt, empty. The selection of glue is carried out on the recommendations of the manufacturer of the insulation.

Important! Work with mineral wool, insulation, containing fiberglass, require special caution. Work in protective gear, respirator, glasses.

Working with foam and cellulose porous insulation requires compliance with fire safety rules

When cutting, there is a minor dust formation. Such intensive protection, as when working with glass, is not required.

Working with foam and cellulose porous insulation requires compliance with fire safety rules. When cutting, there is a minor dust formation. Such intensive protection, as when working with glass, is not required.

Advantages and disadvantages of fasteners when used in the bath

Penoplex for insulation bath

Among the main advantages of the material for insulation baths are distinguished:

Moisture resistance. During the day, the stove of the heat insulator absorbs less than 0.4% of its volume, and in a month can absorb up to 0.6%. The penetration of moisture occurs only in the upper layer, the internal filling remains dry, even if the sheet of the fox is immersed completely into water. Thanks to this factor, the material is not subjected to the formation of mold and rotting.

Low thermal conductivity. This property is provided by a special fastener structure. The conductivity coefficient of heat is 0.03 W / m and is considered the lowest among insulation.

Strength. Due to the homogeneity of the material, which is achieved by an extrusion method, it is able to withstand significant mechanical loads. With 10% of linear information, its strength is 0.2 MPa. In order not to damage its integrity, warming the floor, you need to follow the surface levels.

Playproof. This indicator is close to the rubberoid. Therefore, it is often used for insulation of bathrooms, in which high humidity is supported.

Ease. The density of the material is only 25-32 kg / meter 3. It is often used for the heat insulation of the roofs, because it does not waste the design. Because of this property it is easy to mount.

Easy installation. Penoplex for insulation Baths is cut by the usual construction or stationery knife. Heat insulation with it can be easily implemented independently.

Durability. Some manufacturers provide a warranty for the material up to 50 years.

Chemical impact resistance. The heat insulator is not affected by alkalis, water-based paints, salt solutions, alcohol compositions, chlorine lime, ammonia, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, various oils, freons, concrete mixes. However, it is necessary to take into account that under the influence of formaldehyde, diesel fuel, gasoline, acetone, methyl, ethyl acetate foundations, enamel and oil paints, the physico-technical characteristics of the fasteners are deteriorating. Some formulations may even dissolve the material.

Soundproofing. After insulation of the roof and walls you will not hear the knock of the rain or the hum of a lively track. Noise protection indicator - 41 dB.

Resistance to temperature drops and stability. The operating temperature of the heat insulator is from -100 to +75 degrees.

As for the deficiencies of the material, it is possible to allocate the average flammability and selection of toxic vapors during combustion. For this reason, it is treated with special fire-fighting compositions before thermal insulation. Some manufacturers are offered by antipyrin already soapyr.

Methods of thermal insulation base of bath penplex

The insulation circuit Bani Pesoplex Bath

The base is a more subtle part of the foundation to which the walls of the structure are joined. Therefore, the durability of the building depends on the quality of its thermal insulation.

In the process, adhere to such a sequence:

Cover the base of the waterproofing membrane.

Fix from above on acrylic glue 12-centimeter layer of polyplex.

We put the second layer of waterproofing. He will be a kind of drainage.

Attach the geotextile material that performs the role of the filter.

Fill with a sandy cement tie.

Thanks to the hydrophobicity of the heat-insulator, the pair will be securely protected from moisture.

Warming steam room in a brick bath do it yourself

The construction of its own baths from aerated concrete or bar is currently not as widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use the usual building brick to build walls of the bath.

Of particular popularity for these purposes, a double silicate brick M 150 was received, which in its parameters is practically not inferior to wood.

Silicate Brick Bath

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, it is not a special difficulty. The basic requirement is to do everything carefully and right.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Construction brick can easily absorb moisture, so when building a bath it is necessary to avoid contact with a brick with a soil. Before insulation of a brick bath, you should decide on the case of insulation.

Modern baths are built today with several thermal insulation options:

baths lined with insulation in the form of plates;

Mineral wool insulation

bath with an air cushion in the wall;

Void in the wall

baths having a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and the inner layers of the walls.

Wall with backfill

With slab insulation

The insulation of the walls of the brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is:

drill holes in the seams;

insert wooden plugs into the holes;

There are even finished on sale

a frame of a metal profile or from wooden regions impregnated with antiseptic is fixed on a prepared brick wall;

fasten on the slate rails insulation;

close the insulation with a layer of waterproofing of the Vaneless, not allowing gaps. Most often for these purposes, various foil materials are used;

perform final finish with clapboard.

The insulation inside the wage should be not only environmentally friendly, but also capable of carrying a high temperature indoors.

The use of an irregular material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

Basalt Plate Suitable Excellent

With air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is made at the construction stage. Between the inner masonry and the outer leaves the gap 4-6 cm. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows, by laying steel rods with curved edges.

With thermal insulation between walls

This method of insulation is based on the use of well brick masonry and backfill.

Instructions for the performance of work:

perform masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

as the masonry lifts, empties are poured between the walls with clay, small slag or sand with lime and chips;

after 10-15 cm of the insulation mounds, it is carefully tamped;

the last layer of frustration is reinforced with a metal grid;

complete the masonry by performing 3-4 rows of a solid view of brickwork;

if in the future the wall will not be placed, then all the seams are filled with a solution completely. If the wall is placed, then the seams should be left not filled with 10-15 mm.

Seams make smooth

If you have a lot of bricks with any flaw, then you need to lay them with a good side out.

This will allow not only to improve the appearance of masonry, but also will retain the brick from the saturation of moisture.

Floor insulation and ceiling

The insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. It should be insulated the floor and ceiling.

For work with the ceiling, the following materials will be needed:

The easiest way to insulate the ceiling will be used as a insulation a mixture of straw and clay, which is applied with a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so it is not always the cheapest method of the best.

Final finish

The inner cover of the steam room is usually carried out with wooded materials. Ideal to be considered the linden or aspen linden. However, the aspen lining with time loses its pleasant color, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is the use of pine lining. The price for it is significantly lower, and the aroma and the benefits are almost the same.

Examples of various types of lining

If you made the insulation of a brick bath from the inside right, then you will not have a draft or condensate, and there will be only a pleasant fragrance of the tree and the feeling of comfort.

Everything is ready, you can bathe!

Correctly and accurately by completing all the insulation stages, you can get an excellent bath, which will delight you and your friends for a long time.

Ceiling warming steam room

Also, attention should be paid to the insulation of the ceiling steam room so that hot air remains as long as possible indoors. In one of the publications, we already concerned the question, how to warm the ceiling correctly. As a ceiling insulation, it is also advisable to choose mineral wool rolled or slab materials.

Also quite widely practiced with a clamping overlap.

When the ceiling ceiling ceiling should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard is a hot tube passing through the design of the overlap, around which it is necessary to organize reliable insulation from non-combustible material.

The location of the passage is called the ceiling cutting. As a rule, the pipe passage unit through the overlap is a container filled with non-combustible material with a low thermal conductivity. As the passage of the pipe through the overlap is shown in the photo below:

*** As you can see, the insulation of the walls of the brick bath is not more difficult than that of the baths from the logs or from the bar. By completing the recommendations given in the article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

Early rest and dream of a steam room with a broom, because it is necessary to insulate the design. Brick walls have a high thermal conductivity - it means that it will have to turn the stove for a long time, and the temperature drops quickly. To preserve heat as much as possible, it is necessary to figure out how to insulate the brick bath from the inside.

Why internal insulation is needed

The bath is a room that do not use daily, so in the cold period, its brick walls are freezing, and a lot of warmth is spent on their warming. The outer finish will not be able to significantly affect this situation, and the placement of the insulation inside will provide an opportunity to accumulate the temperature in the room and not to spend additional resources.

Selection of insulation

For effective insulation, from the inside, it is necessary to lay a layer of material with a thickness of at least 10 cm. The temperature in the bath rises to high indicators, therefore, materials that do not contain toxic components are selected for thermal insulation, actively evaporate in air when heated. The insulation should not support the burning so as not to cause fire. Another important requirement is resistance to moisture, because in the bath constantly raw. Given all the listed factors, as a heater for brick walls and a bath ceiling, recommended:

basalt wool;
styrofoam;
floor and ceiling clamzite;
foil Polyurex.

Floor insulation

The base of the bath is a concrete foundation, through which the cold penetrates freely. The belt foundation from the inside will significantly reduce heat loss. The optimal method of combating freezing - thermal insulation of the penplex produced in the form of plates. It is not afraid of moisture and negative temperature, so you will serve dozens of years. Making the installation is simple enough. The insulation is tightly glued to the concrete surface with a mastic or adhesive mixture, the joints of the panels are sampled by the seal, and the corners bloom foam. This layer will prevent cold to penetrate the inside of the concrete foundation.

Note! Inexpensive and reliable insulation material and waterproofing will be clay. The space under the floor is covered with a layer of granules exceeding 1.5-2 times the thickness of the walls. Under the ceramzite poured sand with a layer to 20 cm.

Concrete floor insulation starts with waterproofing. Most often it is labeled with liquid rubber mastic or rubberoid. From above, thermal insulation of the foam, which passes steam and resistant to temperature drops. Next step: fixing the reinforcement grid and pouring a monolithic screed. After its drying, the floor covering is stacked.

Ceramzite is a suitable option for wood heating. It is placed by antiseptic beams and lags. The vapor insulation film is stacked on top, and the draft floors are laid. The foam plastic is tightly stacked on the edge board and covers the waterproofing web. The final stage is the finishing floor.

Methods of thermal insulation walls bath

Keep the heat inside the bath can be made an additional wall from the bar or setting the thick layer of the insulation. For the construction of a wooden partition, a timber treated with a special composition protecting from moisture will be needed. Process technology:

A lover is fixed on the brick wall.
Using a stapler, a waterproofing film is recorded.
The wall of a 10 × 10 cm timber is mounted, the sawn timber is attached by self-draws.
The second tier of the crates is stuffed.
Fiberglass roll is fixed on racks brackets. The material does not stretch, fixed with saving.
The insulation is stacked between the fiberglass guides. The insulation may be mineral wool or penplex. The last option is suitable for all rooms, except for steam room.
Foil is fixed, serving heat reflector and wet steam.
The finish ending of the walls of the walls is performed.

The second option provides for the replacement of an additional wall from the wood layer of the insulation. The sequence of work will be as follows:

A waterproofing film is recorded on the brick wall.
Wooden bar 5 × 5 cm, treated with antiseptic, is stuck vertically. The distance between the racks is 1 cm smaller than the width of the insulation, which will allow the material to tightly and not create cold bridges.
The insulation is stacked with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
On top of the material mounted canvas waterproofing.
Cuts off the second layer of the crate of a bar, similar to what was used earlier.
Fiberglass is fastening freely.
In the intervals between the crubble lamps, the insulation plates are tightly inserted and covered with fiberglass.
Next, the stapler is fixed with a layer of material reflecting thermal radiation. For steam room, only basalt wool is suitable as a heater, the insulating layer is made of aluminum foil, which is notepower when heating harmful components. In other rooms for insulation and waterproofing, it is possible to use foamphol, which reflects up to 90% of the radiation and is designed for temperatures up to 100ºC. Foil material is sick on the joints aluminum scotch.
Performed . Boards are attached at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the aluminum layer. This air layer is necessary for ventilation and separation of wood and aluminum foil, heating to high temperature.

The inner lining of the walls is performed from the lining of various breeds of the tree. For steam room with high temperature and humidity, linden, cedar, larch is used. They have low thermal conductivity and high moisture resistance. The rest room is cured with pine boards, wood has a pleasant view, and when heated is heated, healing substances spread.

Note! The conditions of high humidity affect metal fasteners, causing fast corrosion. So that the screws will serve a long time, choose fasteners with galvania.

The overall layer of insulation design should be about 22 cm, then it will serve as effective thermal insulation. In the cake you can use several types of insulation, closer to brick walls, where the penetration of moisture is possible, it is more correct to put the plates of polystyrene foam.

Technology insulation ceiling

Hot air rises to the ceiling, so it is worth understanding how to inspire it correctly. Popular material for thermal insulation works is a basalt wool, characterized by high temperature and environmental safety. Polyfoam is also suitable for this purpose, it is easily cut and has a low thermal conductivity. To reflect infrared heat rays, a foil or material with a reflective layer will be required. In some cases, the insulation uses underrid means - clay and straw or sawdust. They are mixed in a ratio of 2 to 3, wet and stacked on the crate in 30 cm increments or fiberglass. After drying on the clay base, the heat insulation with the foil layer, and the sheets of plywood are stuffed on top.

Note! When working with mineral wool, it is important to high quality waterproofing. The first layer will serve as a foil, unsettled with the allen at 3-4 cm and the metallized scotch-skins. The insulation is then tightly stacked and the top is covered with a vapor barrier film.

It is possible to replace wat with foam, but only mineral material is warmed above the steer. Cover the insulation of the cake can be boards or plywood. Interior ceiling decoration is performed from the same material as the walls.

Competently performed insulation bath with brick walls will save fuel and enjoy hot steam.

Video

Check out an informative video about the insulation of the walls of the baths: