How the socket boxes are attached. Simple ways to install socket boxes. Installation of metal sockets in wooden walls

In this article, we will analyze in detail the question of how to install socket on concrete. Having in hand a well-written instruction, supplemented with detailed photographs and expert comments, the solution of this issue will not present any difficulties for you. is the foundation of the installation
wiring elements, such as sockets, switches, dimmers, and so on, so special attention should be paid to the quality of its installation.

Basically, all socket boxes are divided into two main groups:

Socket boxes for concrete - are used for installation in concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete, blocks made of expanded clay.Installation of the socket is carried out in a previously prepared hole by fixing it with a solution of gypsum or alabaster.
Socket boxes for drywall - used for installation in drywall, chipboard, various kinds of plywood, LSU sheets. Installation is carried out by fixing the socket with the spacer lugs provided on it in a pre-prepared hole. You can find the instructions on our website in the corresponding article.

In this article, we will analyze in detail how the socket boxes are mounted on concrete.

Making the markup

Before installing the socket, it is necessary to mark the location of the future outlet or switch, since each installation element has its own installation coordinates.

Some of the standards commonly used by electricians are listed below:

sockets in living rooms - 30 centimeters from the finished floor (the so-called "Euro standard");
sockets above the kitchen countertop - 110-120 centimeters;
socket above the washing machine - 1 meter;
switch, pass-through switch, dimmer - 90 centimeters from the clean floor.

However, it is worth noting that these standards are not fundamental and you can edit them as you like, according to your taste and discretion.

Let's start editing. We measure the required distance from the floor to the planned switch or outlet. If there is no clean floor yet, add +5 centimeters to our dimensions, on the screed and laminate (linoleum).

For the switch, you can use the hand measurement technique. Approach the site of the planned installation, put your hand down, notice a comfortable position. This method allows you to customize the switch for you. If more than one person is using the switch, you can take a medium arm length.

Next, we measure the required distance from the wall to the socket. If you plan to install a switch near the door, then measure the required distance from its edge, 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the passage arch, excluding the door frame, is considered optimal.

Now, mark all dimensions with a pencil on the wall.

The markup is done.

Making a hole for the socket

All the socket-outlets for concrete are mounted in the wall using alabaster or gypsum mortar, but before installing the socket-outlets, it is necessary to make a hole in which it will be installed. There are many ways you can make it. We will look at three of the most simple and effective ones.

Method 1. Crown for concrete flush mounts

The main device for making holes for socket boxes for concrete is a crown for concrete and brick, with a diameter of 70 millimeters.

The standard diameter of the socket is 67 mm, some manufacturers also have a diameter of 68 mm.

Rice. Socket crown for concrete

On the diameter of the cylinder, the crown for concrete flanges has victorious teeth, with which it cuts a circle, in the middle there is a victorious drill for centering. The crown is installed on a perforator or electric drill and by means of rotation or rotation with a blow, a hole is made.

We move the wire aside so as not to damage it when drilling and make a hole.

The crown must completely sink into the wall.

To facilitate the drilling process, it is possible to pre-drill a centering hole in the center of the future socket outlet with an ordinary winder drill, in this case it will be much easier for the crown to cut through the wall material.

We take out the crown and bring the resulting hole to the desired depth. This can be done using a hammer bit on a hammer drill or a chisel and hammer.

We considered the first option for making a hole for a socket, in which we used a crown for a socket for concrete. Consider the following method.

Method 2.Using a hammer drill, hammer drill and winder drill

In order to use this method, the first step is to outline the socket box. We attach it to the wall and outline it with a pencil.

Then we go around the perimeter in a circle. The denser and deeper the holes are drilled, the easier it will then be to clean the hole from the wall elements.

Now, it is up to a hammer and chisel or hammer drill with an impact bat. We bring the hole to the required size.

Method 3. Making a hole using a grinder (angle grinder)

This method is the fastest of all of the above, but also the most dusty. Explaining its meaning, I think, is not particularly necessary. It is especially suitable, for example, when it is required to install the socket outlets in a concrete wall.

The process of execution is simple, we take means grinder (angle grinder), and drove.

We cut all the marked lines: a central cross and a square along the perimeter of the outlined box. Be careful with the wire.

After everything is cut through, we knock the squares out of the hole with a chisel or bat and bring it to the desired depth. As a rule, the depth of the circle is less than the depth of the socket, so be prepared to knock a little when using this method.

We adjust the hole to the size of the socket

After making the hole, we check how the socket box enters it. Since the diameter of the socket is less than the diameter of the crown, there will be no problems with the width, but you need to look at the depth.

The hole must be brought to such a depth that the socket falls into it a little, by about 4-5 millimeters. This margin is necessary because, in addition to the socket itself, a fixing solution (gypsum, alabaster) will be laid inside the hole, as well as some space will be needed to bend the wire entering the socket.

To facilitate the following stages of work after installing the socket, I recommend that you cut the edge from the edges of the hole made. This action can be performed with a knife. Due to the manipulations made by us, the socket box will sink into the hole along with the outer skirt, which will make it possible to install it flush with the wall. This feature of the installation will allow you to perform the ideal installation of the socket or switch by pressing its metal mounting frame and, therefore, the plastic decorative frame to the wall as much as possible. As a rule, a non-submerged skirt of the socket outlet can give a gap of the socket frame from the wall of the order of 1-2 mm.

Now, you need to bring the wire into the socket, for this we make a small strobe for it in the upper part of the hole. You can make a strobe using a chisel and a hammer or a hammer drill with an impact bat. The soft wall material can even be crumbled with a chisel. In our example, it is she who is used.

The stroba is ready.

The wire should be easily laid without interfering with the socket.

Now, turn over the socket box. On its back, we see specially prepared slots for the wire.

Select the desired one and cut it out with a knife. It is very advisable to start the wire from the back of the socket, this will greatly facilitate the subsequent installation of the outlet or switch and protect the wire from damage.

The hole is made.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole.

Nothing should interfere, and let me remind you that there should be a margin of 2-3 millimeters in depth for the fixing solution.

Everything fits, everything has been checked. We clean the hole from debris and dust and proceed to the preparation of the gypsum solution.

Preparation of gypsum mortar

To prepare the solution, we need a mixing container.

For our purposes, you can use:

plaster of paris
medical plaster
alabaster

Pour a small amount of gypsum into the container.

You should get a homogeneous creamy mixture of medium density.

The resulting solution has a very short time to use, literally in 2-3 minutes the solution will begin to harden very quickly, and after 5 minutes it will be already unusable.

Installing the socket

Using the resulting solution, we fix the socket in the hole. Before installation, the hole must be well moistened with water. Water acts as a primer and removes fine dust. We are waiting for the water to be absorbed for 2-3 minutes.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole. The solution should cover the back wall of the socket well by squeezing out of the slots of the holes.

We align it so that the screws are horizontal to the floor, and the glass itself is flush with the wall or 1-1.5 mm deeper. You can check the installation in depth by applying the level with the flat side to the wall diagonally of the socket. The most important thing is that it does not stick out, otherwise there will be a bump, and therefore later there will be problems with the installation of an outlet or switch.

The main fixation is done, so we no longer move the glass of the flush-mount box, otherwise the solution will not grab and the flap-box will not be properly fixed.

Now, we make additional fixation by laying the solution in the side gaps between the wall and the socket. It is necessary not only to smear the solution around, but to lay it in the gaps.

And now, you can coat around.

The socket is installed.

We are waiting for complete drying and only then we remove the excess solution that got inside the socket. When dry, it separates well from plastic.

I would like to note that the installation of socket outlets in a concrete wall is carried out in the same way as in the example considered. The only difficulty here, as a rule, is making a hole in concrete, as suggested above, it is better to do it with a grinder (angle grinder), method 3.

The next step is and, you can read the installation instructions on our website in the relevant articles.

If you are interested in a more detailed description of the connection and installation of various wiring elements (sockets with and without grounding, various switches, including those with illumination, a chandelier, a lamp, a bathroom exhaust fan), you will be interested.

How to install a double socket

Installation of two sockets in one frame requires the installation of two sockets. Let's consider in detail how this type of installation is performed.

Docking with each other is performed using a connector (butterfly).

On the side of the socket boxes there are special grooves into which they are inserted.

Thus, you can assemble a garland of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on socket boxes.

For our example, we only need two. We do the markup. We measure the distance from the floor.

Using a level at the desired height, draw a flat horizontal strip.

Now, using one of the three methods outlined above, we make two hole holes.

The difference from the installation of a single socket is that after making a hole, you need to make a connection between the two holes. This is done so that a connector joining two socket outlets fits into the holes. It is ideal to cut through these joints with a grinder.

After making the holes, as in the example of mounting a single socket, we lower the wire into one of the two holes obtained in the strobe.

The rest of the installation is carried out in the same way as a single socket.

The last point, which should be separately paid attention to, is a strict approach to setting them horizontally when fixing with plaster. It is necessary to plant on gypsum mortar only with a level, the more the number of socket boxes in the chain, the stricter this requirement.

The installation of various elements of electrical wiring is described in maximum detail and colorfully.

To carry out the work, we used:

Material

gypsum, alabaster
socket box

Installing outlets in concrete is a demanding task, which will require care, adherence to safety precautions and certain skills.

The workflow consists of several stages and includes surface marking, making strobes, laying wires, installing socket boxes, fittings and finishing work.

Preparatory work

Before starting the installation work, you need to prepare tools and materials. It is necessary to decide on the areas where the sockets will be mounted. It is necessary to draw a diagram on which the installation locations of sockets, switches and wire lines will be provided.

Note! In residential premises, it is customary to mount sockets at a height of 30-40 centimeters from the floor. If we are talking about a bathroom, toilet, corridor or other utilitarian room, the level of fittings should be chosen based on practical necessity.

When laying wires, you should follow some rules:

The wiring should be located 15 to 20 centimeters from the ceiling.
The wires should only diverge vertically or horizontally. Building codes prohibit diagonal laying of wires, creating zigzags or twists between wires.
The distance between the strobes and the gas pipeline should not be less than 35 centimeters.

Tools and materials

Installing a wall outlet requires the following tools and materials:

devices for creating strobes (grinder or wall cutter);
perforator for drilling holes;
a crown for working with concrete, a victorious drill, a nozzle in the form of a spatula;
knife, nippers, screwdriver;
putty knife;
roulette;
gypsum and alabaster;
deep penetration primer;
socket box;
wires;
pencil.

Markup

We mark the center of the axis on the wall, where the wires will be laid and the holes for the sockets are placed. To do this work, we use a pencil and tape measure.

If in the future you need to install adjacent sockets or a whole block of devices, you must maintain a certain distance between the mechanisms. The recommended spacing is 7.1 centimeters (center-to-center distance of the socket outlets).

Draw 2 axes in the center: vertical and horizontal. The lines should be long enough - this will allow you to install the socket as evenly as possible.

Making holes

There are three ways to create wall holes:

With a concrete crown.
Using a hammer drill, hammer drill and winder drill.
Using a grinder (angle grinder).

The first option (bit for concrete)

The cutting element of the crown is a diamond-coated part. You can use victorious nozzles. Heavy-duty material makes it easy to shatter any hard surface. The cut is smooth and rounded. In the inner part of the nozzle there is a concrete drill intended for centering the cutting element.

Note! The nozzle must have a larger diameter than the dimensions of the socket to be installed.

We put the drill at the given point and start to immerse the crown into the material. When the cut is complete, gouge out the rest of the concrete. For this we use a hammer and chisel.

The second option (drill, hammer drill, victorious drill)

If there is no bit-bit for concrete, the hole for the socket can be made with a victor drill. It is best to punch the hole with a hammer drill, and if no tool is available, an impact drill will do. In the latter case, the process will be more laborious.

The circle is drilled along a pre-drawn line. The minimum step is taken. To control the immersion depth, it is recommended to use insulating tape attached to the drill. As in the first option, we finish the work with a hammer and chisel.

The third option (Bulgarian)

A grinder is not the best way to make round holes, but more suitable for making squares. However, in the absence of another tool, you can make a hole for the outlet in the wall using a grinder.

We select a special disc - for concrete. We draw a square instead of a circle. We make 4 cuts in the wall along the lines drawn. The depth of the cuts slightly exceeds the size of the socket. We remove the remains of concrete with a hammer and chisel.

Adjusting the hole to the size of the socket

When the hole is made, we check how much the socket fits under it. Since the hole was originally made larger than the diameter of the socket, there should be no problems with the width. The main effort is usually made to fit the desired depth.

We bring the hole to a depth at which the socket box will sink into the niche by about 5 millimeters. The depth reserve is provided taking into account the insertion of a fixing material (gypsum or alabaster mortar) into the hole. In addition, a certain place will be taken by the bend of the wire suitable for the device.

Advice! To make further work easier, it is recommended to cut an edge from the edges of the hole. We do this using a knife.

By adjusting the depth, the installed flap will be hidden in the hole along with the outer skirt. This will allow the device to be installed flush with the wall. If the skirt is not drowned, the end result will be a gap between the rosette frame and the wall by 1 - 2 millimeters.

Wiring

The work is done in the following order:

We check the insulation and cores of the cable for defects.
Remove the cover from the junction box.
We put different ends of the cable into the junction box - on the one hand, and into the installation box - on the other. To make it convenient to make new connections in the future, we start the cable with a certain margin (10 - 15 centimeters).
We are preparing a strobe at the top of the hole for the wire. We use a hammer with a chisel or a perforator with an impact attachment to make a groove. If the wall material is not solid, even a chisel is suitable for making a groove.
We put the wires (corrugated pipe with a cable inside) in a groove. The wire should lie in the niche freely, without interfering with the socket. On the back of the device there is a special slot in which we place the wire.
Fixation of the wire can be carried out with alabaster mortar. The recommended pitch is 250 millimeters.
We cover the defects with a putty composition.

As a fixing compound, you can use not only alabaster, but also gypsum (medical or construction). To prepare the solution, pour the base into a container. We add water in small volumes, trying to get a solution of medium density.

The composition must be used very quickly, since after a couple of minutes it will be very difficult to work with it, and after 5 minutes the solution will become completely unusable.

Preparation and installation of socket boxes

We turn off the electricity supply. Trying on the box to the hole. There should not be any obstacles to mounting the socket flush with the surface. All unnecessary elements are cut off and removed.

The bottom of the hole is cleaned of dirt, dust, and then primed. Surface treatment with a primer is important to ensure adhesion of the fixer to the wall. Let the primer dry.

We squeeze out a plastic fragment in the box, through which we stretch the cable.
We process the walls and the bottom of the recess with a solution, the outer part of the socket.
We install the device (or unit) into the solution. Align the top edge of the box with the wall level.
We check with the help of a building level the horizontalness of the mounting lugs.
We remove the excess solution that got into the box.

Note! If a block of outlets is to be installed, the socket boxes are connected through a structural adapter.

Installing a double socket

The docking of the socket-outlets is carried out by a connector (another name is a butterfly). On the sidewalls of the socket boxes there are special grooves for connecting a butterfly. Thanks to these slots, you can connect not only 2, but also many more socket outlets.

Work order:

We do the markup. We count the distance from the floor. Draw a strip at the desired height (strictly horizontally).
We attach the socket boxes (connected by a butterfly) to the strip. We mark the central parts of each socket on the strip.
We make holes (in one of the three ways mentioned above).
We make connecting grooves between the holes. This can be done with a grinder.
We lower the wire into one of the holes.
Further work is carried out in the same way as in the case of one socket.

Finishing

You can start finishing work only after the fixing composition has completely dried. If you hurry up and start plastering the grooves and holes earlier, there is a high risk of displacement of the built-in device.

Finishing is done as follows:

We treat with a primer all noticeable defects, which may include irregularities, chips, holes. Once again we trim the surface around the socket boxes.
When the wall is dry, we proceed to puttying the surface. After the putty has dried, sand the coating. As a result, it is necessary to obtain the most even concrete surface.
Apply another layer of primer and wait for it to dry.

Fittings installation

After finishing the finishing work, we begin to install the socket mechanisms. Before starting work, we check the lack of power in the network. It is recommended to shut off the power supply directly in the switchboard. To do this, you need to turn off the circuit breakers.

The connection of wires to the socket is carried out depending on the type of socket (screw, spring). Here we will consider the installation of a socket with spring terminals.

We prepare the wires, for which we remove the outer protective sheath of the supply cable. We clean the ends of the veins by 10 - 12 millimeters. We direct the wires to the terminals of the socket mechanism. Insert the yellow-green ground wire into the central terminal, send the blue wire (zero) to the left, and join the white (phase) wire to the right terminal.

Working with wiring requires certain qualifications, and it is not recommended for non-specialists to take on it. However, if you have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the right tool, then, subject to safety precautions, it is quite possible to independently cope with the installation of an outlet in a concrete wall.

Installation boxes, or socket boxes, are an effective solution for the reliable and aesthetic installation of sockets, switches, and other elements of the home electrical network. Not only the long service life of the internal electrical system, but also the safety of your family depends on the quality of fixing the junction boxes. The recommendations below will help you perform high-quality and reliable installation of these elements.

Preparation for work

The installation of the socket-outlets is carried out upon completion (the geometry of the walls must be finally established). Drilling of sockets (holes) for mounting boxes is performed at the stage for electrical wiring, while the layout of the elements should already be applied to the surface of the walls.

IMPORTANT: It is advisable to install socket boxes after cutting the strobes, since mechanical impact on the box after fixing it (cutting through the channel for the wire) can seriously disrupt the reliability of its fixing.

Group placement of junction boxes

For group placement of elements, use special junction boxes for several modules (mechanisms), or boxes with latches for group placement.

Performing markup

Since the schematic marking of the position of the electrical network elements has already been applied to the walls (see above), you only need to correctly mark the centers of the future installation holes, since the positioning of the crown in all cases is done using a centering drill.

Mounting boxes very often have a small depression or bulge in the center of the bottom (due to the technological features of the plastic case manufacturing). Using an awl, pierce the body at this point (center of the bottom).

In our example, it is required to install two plastic electrical boxes for the subsequent placement of a group of two socket modules. Assemble a group by connecting the required number of boxes.

Place the electric boxes in the marked area and align them using the small one. Then, using an awl, mark the centers of the dowel holes.

Using a spirit level, draw the control horizontal axis through the marked centers, if necessary, correct their position. The central axis will be required later - for precise positioning of the baskets in the niche.

Drilling holes for mounting boxes

The technique of making holes for the installation of an electric box differs, depending on the type of basic wall decoration. For a standard socket (64 mm in diameter and 40 mm in depth), crowns with a diameter of 68 mm and a length of the working part of 60 mm are used. The gap between the edge of the installation niche and the body of the box is necessary to securely fix the socket with a layer of plaster mix.

IMPORTANT: Drilling of the mounting holes is carried out exclusively in a non-impact mode. Punching can damage tools and accessories.

Installation in tongue-and-groove plates

To drill holes in tongue-and-groove (gypsum fiber) slabs, tungsten carbide-coated crowns are used.

Attach a pilot drill or drill to the crown. The shanks of such bits are usually made in the form of a hexagon. Install the crown into a drill or screwdriver and fix it securely with a wrench or a self-clamping chuck. When using rotary hammers (which are most often equipped with SDS plus chucks), an adapter or an exchangeable self-clamping chuck must be used.

Place the centering drill of the crown in the previously marked center of the hole, then drill its contour in accordance with the depth of the socket used. For exact observance of the required drilling depth - place the crowns on the body at risk, or stick a small strip of masking tape.

The central holes can be pre-drilled to the required depth with a conventional drill or drill, 6-8 mm in diameter, and, after that, start drilling the main contour of the socket with a crown.

Do not forget that the depth of the installation niche should be slightly greater than the depth of the socket (by about 5 mm) - for easy positioning. If you need to switch conductive lines directly in the housing of the junction box, use junction boxes 60 mm deep. The depth of the mounting slot (hole), in this case, will also increase.

IMPORTANT: When making the holes, take into account the thickness of the wall, as well as the location of the electrical systems on its opposite side.

If necessary (to perform group mounting of boxes), drill the remaining holes in the group. After all the holes have been made, using a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill equipped with a spatula, carefully split and remove the remaining material inside the drilled contour of the niche, as well as the corners separating the installation holes so that the edges of the niche are straight and even. Trim the bottom of the installation niche.

Remove debris and dust the hole using a small brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.

Installation in wood, plywood, chipboard and drywall

Holes are drilled in the same way, but with toothed crowns. GKL sheets can also be drilled with a tungsten carbide-coated bit.

Installation in concrete and brick

The biggest challenge is the drilling of mounting slots in brick and concrete walls. High quality carbide tooth bits (for bricks) and diamond-coated bits (for concrete) are used.

Direct drilling in concrete and masonry can be performed with quality core bits. However, such equipment is very expensive. In order to facilitate the performance of work with medium-quality tooling, extending its service life, the following drilling technique is used:

Having previously marked the centers of the mounting holes, drill them to the required depth using a hammer drill equipped with a carbide drill (hammer drilling mode is used).

Using a crown with a centering drill installed, mark the contour of the future hole by drilling the wall to a shallow depth (in the drilling mode without impact).

IMPORTANT: When using hammer drills, take into account the configuration and diameter of the bit shank. Serrated carbide bits are usually available with SDS plus shank (fits most hammer drill chucks). To use the bits with hex shanks, you need a chuck tool or adapter.

Use a drill to drill several holes along the contour of the mounting recess. As a rule, 8 holes are sufficient, if the material is too hard - 12 holes can be used.

When installing the boxes in groups, first, using a crown, outline the contour of each of the future holes, and then drill additional holes along each contour.

After all holes have been made, use a bit to drill out the sockets to the desired depth. Then, using a hammer and chisel, or a hammer drill with a spatula, dismantle all the material inside the contour of the installation niche, align its edges and bottom. If you have made a sufficiently large number of holes along the contour, the material can be sampled from the niche immediately, without using a crown, which, in this case, is used, in fact, only for marking the contours.

Remove material fragments inside the niche contour and dust the installation area.

Preparing to secure the junction boxes

Before fixing, it is necessary to prime the mounting socket and allow it to dry completely (see instructions).

In junction boxes, it is necessary to remove the plugs at the cable entry points. So that, at the stage of fixing the box, the gypsum mixture is not squeezed out through the hole for the wire - it can be sealed from the outside with masking tape.

IMPORTANT: When using groups, in some cases, it is required to additionally remove the side plugs - to ensure the wire routing in the group retainer case.

Securing boxes

Fixation in monolithic walls

The fixation of installation boxes in monolithic walls (blocks, bricks, concrete, etc.) is most often performed using gypsum plaster mix or alabaster.

Prepare a small portion of the mixture. It is better to cook less material than throw it away. If the amount of the mixture is not enough for the complete sealing of all cavities and leveling the surface, the final sealing can be done at the stage of sealing the groove. The material should be prepared in the thickest possible consistency, reminiscent of plasticine.

Apply the mixture in a layer about 5-7 mm thick to the edges and bottom of the mounting slot.

Install the box or assembled group in the installation niche. Remove the squeezed out excess mixture. Using a rule or building level piece, press the mounting boxes into the niche flush with the wall surface. Align the boxes horizontally using the center centerline drawn during the layout step.

Fill all cavities with a small trowel and level the plaster material.

After the layer hardens a little - repeat the alignment, cleaning off all excess mortar from the wall surface - the mortar should remain only within the installation niche. Be sure to remove the mortar from the slots of the mounting bolts with a knife or awl.

Carefully cut and remove the tape, clean the place where the cable is inserted into the socket housing (near the groove) from the solution.

IMPORTANT: The junction boxes must be located strictly in the plane of the walls. They can be slightly recessed into the niche, but in no case should they protrude beyond its limits, otherwise their edges will have to be cut off.

If you need to perform additional fixing of the mounting boxes, so that their edges do not protrude from the niche beyond the plane of the wall (in the case of installing groups of three or more elements), use strip pieces fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws.

After the mixture has completely dried, you can start installing the cable and sealing the strobe.

Fixation in sheet materials

For fixing on sheet materials (plywood, gypsum board, chipboard, etc.), mounting boxes with special side clamps are used.

They are installed in a niche, after which the clamp screws are tightened with a screwdriver. In this case, the clamp is fixed on the back of the sheet material.

After fixing, the voids in the niche are filled with plaster mixture. To prevent deformation cracking of the outer coating, the plaster layer should be reinforced with a painting plastic net.

A socket is not only an obligatory functional element of electrical wiring used for connecting electrical household appliances, but also a significant interior detail.

The trouble-free operation of the outlet, as well as its neat appearance, to a large extent depends on how well the installation is, right? To make the correct installation, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances that are present in this work, one of which is the correct installation of the socket boxes.

Have you never edited a socket and are afraid to make mistakes? We will help you figure out all the features - the article discusses in detail the types of installation boxes and the subtleties of installing each of them.

Attention is also paid to the installation of socket outlets in common types of bases - concrete, drywall, tiled wall. The material is supplemented with illustrative photos and useful videos.

Modern sockets, both in appearance and in the method of installation, differ significantly from those that were installed in houses of the Soviet era.

If earlier they were simply embedded in the wall without the possibility of replacement, today it is not particularly difficult to install them, and if necessary.

And all this thanks to the socket, which, in fact, is a box that reliably holds the socket in its bowels and at the same time ensures its fire safety.

Socket boxes come in different shapes and sizes, differ in materials of manufacture and installation method, so before you buy, you need to deal with their types.

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Installation of a socket in a concrete base

If you have already decided where you will have the sockets, you can start the installation work, which consists of several stages.

Before installing the socket in concrete, markings are made, then a hole is made in the wall and a plaster mortar is prepared.

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An integral part of any major renovation is the installation of outlets. According to all the rules, at this stage, a socket box is required, which is one of the main installation elements and is a guarantee of safety.

It is mounted directly into the wall, followed by wiring and connecting the socket to the mains. If necessary, this simple element of the electrical field allows you to repair or replace the socket.

Socket boxes and their purpose

Not many people know what a socket is and what it is for. This question may arise only when it is necessary to repair with a change of wiring. But the solution to the problem usually depends on experienced builders. Small repairs with the change of installation boxes for sockets can be done independently.

The socket is usually represented by an original glass made of metal or plastic, fixed in a hole made in the wall. Required for the internal location of the socket mechanism. Switches are also installed in it. From above, the entire structure is closed with a decorative frame, which makes the socket boxes invisible to the eye, therefore, not everyone knows about them.

And not everyone understands why you can't just put the outlet directly into the wall without a box. First of all, this is necessary for the socket complex to be assembled efficiently and work perfectly.

Other purposes of socket boxes include:

Guaranteed firm fixation of socket mechanisms, switches and similar devices. The fastening function is usually performed by the socket screws or the spacer lugs of the installed devices.
Acts as an additional dielectric insulator between the outlet (switch) and the wall of the room.
Execution of the distribution function boxes when installing electrical wiring without it.
Implementation of additional protection against accidental fire.

In order for the installation box for sockets and switches to comply with the listed functions, you should choose responsibly. For the future, this will serve as a guarantee of the uninterrupted operation of devices and the electrical network.

Choosing boxes for sockets correctly

Boxes designed to accommodate sockets and similar devices are divided into several varieties. Such a classification is necessary for their competent installation with the subsequent implementation of the above purposes.

There are a number of classification parameters, among which several main ones should be highlighted.

By type of surface to be installed

Socket boxes are required for installation in different rooms, made of different materials. It can be brick, concrete, foam blocks or aerated concrete.

According to this parameter, their design may differ in some way. For example, a drywall box has additional feet for secure fixing.

By material of manufacture

The socket boxes are plastic or metal. To install the box, the first option is usually used, which has a large assortment of models and shapes:

Round - are widespread. It is easy to make a hole in the wall for them and select the necessary groups of devices for installation.
Oval - they are distinguished by the presence of a large amount of space, which allows you to make a supply of wire necessary for mounting devices and the disconnection process. If necessary, you can purchase boxes that can accommodate up to 5 mechanisms.
Square - have a large supply of space for wires and allow the installation of elements of dimmers, "smart home" and a number of other devices. They can accommodate up to 4 mechanisms.

Metal sockets are not widespread, since they are conductors of electric current. But this is an option for houses made of wood.

By the number of outlets

Single boxes designed for the installation of single sockets are in demand. But boxes for placing 2, 3 and 4 sockets are also gaining popularity. The distance (center-to-center) in such socket-outlets is 71 mm in accordance with the standards.

It is customary to subdivide boxes by size - inner diameter and depth (40 - 60 mm). Additionally, there is a mounting diameter (60, 64 and 68 mm). The best choice is the socket, which has a diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 42 mm. If routing is required without distribution boxes, a depth of 60 mm is appropriate.

List of required tools

When carrying out large-scale repair work, the necessary list of tools is usually at hand. But even minor repairs require preliminary selection of tools.

To mount the socket, the liver of the necessary tools must be presented as follows:

Level with pencil and compasses. Necessary for marking on the walls and subsequent alignment of the block of boxes for sockets (if necessary, installation).
Drill. Required to make holes for boxes. You will need crowns for drilling with a drill - if they are not available, a drill for concrete will do. In the absence of a drill, a punch or grinder will do.
A hammer with a chisel. It will be needed at the stage of forming holes for knocking out extra pieces of the wall.
Spray. It will be needed during drilling for watering the crown, prevent cracking of tiles and prevent dust from flying.
Spatula (trowel). Necessary at the stage of fastening boxes.

Additionally, you will need a solution of alabaster, cement or gypsum to securely fix the boxes in the wall. Dowels are often needed for this purpose. Do not forget about the socket boxes, the availability of which must be ensured before starting to perform the listed actions.

Installation of socket outlets in rooms made of various materials

The process of installing the box should be treated responsibly, since the reliability of fixing the sockets with subsequent work directly depends on this.

Depending on the material of the walls, the mounting procedure has some characteristic differences.

Concrete

Concrete is one of the most common materials for the walls of premises, therefore, the installation of socket outlets in this case has been worked out to the smallest detail:

Implementation of markup. A serious stage, especially when mounting several socket outlets, where the same level of arrangement is especially important.
Making holes. The diameter of the holes for the sockets must exceed the diameter of the socket to be installed by 5 mm. This is most easily accomplished with a crown or a victorious tip. It is necessary to drill holes along the perimeter of the marked circle and knock out the inner part (in the absence of a punch and a drill, you can use a grinder), making rectangular holes in the wall, covering the corners with mortar.
Fitting the box. A competent installation should be flush, so do not forget to check how freely the cables pass through the holes prepared in advance.
Installation process. You need to put a layer of putty into the hole so that the glass will fit. After mounting, it is necessary to leave everything for a few minutes for the mortar to set, after which you need to remove the unnecessary part of it from the wall.

In case of insufficient fixation, it is necessary to additionally secure the socket with dowels.

Brick

Mounting boxes for sockets in masonry is similar to installing in concrete, but there are a number of nuances.

The boxes should be installed flush on the outside of the wall. It should be noted that an additional layer of plaster and sometimes tiles (kitchen, bathroom) will be laid on the wall. It will be difficult to calculate in advance how many mm the socket should be pulled out of the wall or tile.

You can use the following scheme:

perform a deepening (diamond, victorious);
hide the wire in the hole and close it with a lid (for example, made of cardboard);
putty the wall, remembering the location of the future outlet (if necessary, lay the tiles);
proceed to the first stage of mounting the socket box (after the tile glue and plaster has dried), carefully drilling holes in the desired coordinates.

The subsequent stages of installation should be carried out by analogy with the installation of socket outlets in concrete.

Gas silicate

When mounting the socket outlets in gas silicate blocks, it is worth preparing for a large amount of dust. You need to use a vacuum cleaner.

Since plaster, putty for painting or wallpaper are used in the decoration of walls made of gas silicate, the stage-by-stage implementation of the installation of the socket boxes is similar to that when they are installed in the walls of bricks. The only caveat is that the holes should be made with a drill with an inventory drill. A hammer drill should not be used.

Depending on the material, the installation process will differ. The most important thing is to fulfill all safety requirements.

Installation of boxes in PVC and MDF panels and not only

The variety of materials used in modern construction is amazing.

It is worth knowing about some of the nuances of each material in order to competently carry out the process of mounting the socket boxes.

Drywall

When installing boxes in plasterboard walls, a punch and mortar are not required. The work will be carried out several times faster in comparison with the installation of socket outlets in the walls of a concrete component or brick.

It is necessary to purchase special boxes with additional legs to provide better attachment to the drywall sheet. After completing the marking, holes can be made with a drill with a crown or with an ordinary drill. Then you need to bring out the wire and thread it into the socket, then insert it into the hole. On it, tighten the bolts from the adjustment tabs.

If there is a risk of the box falling out of the hole, you can first glue a sheet of plywood or other dense and non-crumbling material to the drywall from the inside. All other steps (connecting the socket mechanism) are standard.

Wood

Concealed wiring in a house made mostly of wood is not cheap. According to the requirements of the PUE, the installation wire should never come into contact with the tree.

Standard plastic sockets are not suitable as there is a risk of fire. The only option is iron, capable of withstanding an electric arc during a short circuit.

During the installation process, the wires should be laid in iron pipes, and the joints with the socket outlet should be carefully sealed. Do not forget about grounding, for which you will need to additionally weld a fastening bolt to the ends of the pipes converging in the box. For additional protection, the bottom of the holes can be laid with asbestos.

PVC and MDF panels

Modern window sills or loggias are often made of polyvinyl chloride and act as a place for installing outlets.

To carry out this process quickly, you need to purchase boxes for sockets with spacer legs. For additional fasteners, you should buy self-tapping screws. During the assembly phase, the supply cable must be laid in advance.

The holes for the flush mounts in the panels are made in advance using a crown (diameter 68 mm). They should be strictly in size so that the socket fits rather tightly. Then you need to pull the cable through the prepared holes and connect the socket terminals. Then you can attach the panels to the main location. It is necessary to try to ensure that the socket is close to the wall.

When installing a whole complex of devices, always adhere to a distance between the sockets of 71 mm. To maintain this distance up to a millimeter, you can make an original template yourself. To do this, you need to take any hard material (pipe profile, aluminum frame) and mark in the center of the rib, where the socket boxes will be attached.

To this end, you need to find the center with a tape measure and mark the line with a pencil. Along the finished line, you need to drill holes with a drill for metal. Then you need to measure the distance between the holes of the box with a tape measure and drill the second point in accordance with it. Make holes in the same way for the rest of the boxes. In order not to make so many manipulations, you can simply purchase a stencil for the box.

Conclusion

A glass for an outlet greatly facilitated the process of installing various electrical outlets. Allows you to easily mount the sockets into the wall, so they will be almost invisible. This allows them to harmoniously fit into the interior of the premises and serves as a guarantee of safety.

If necessary, socket outlets allow you to repair electrical outlets or replace them. They have become widespread and have become an integral part of the direct process of mounting electrical outlets.