Dracaena has leaves hanging what to do. Dracaena - diseases and treatment with a photo. Dracaena in natural and home conditions
Typical Dracaena diseases and their effective treatment with explanations from professional florists. Photo attached.
Why do dracaena leaves drop? Causes may be as follows: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with a replacement of soil, which violated the integrity of the root system, an incorrect watering regime.
Only a purchased plant must undergo an acclimatization period under new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The light level in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all these can affect the well-being of the flower. There is no need to worry if the dracaena is just bought and has dropped its leaves. For prevention, you need to examine the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic actions. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. Upon the expiration of this period, carry out a transplant by transshipment and strictly observe the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaenas drop their leaves after purchase. This is normal. In a healthy flower, only the top of the head, that is, young leaves, will look up.
Dracaena leaves dropped immediately after transplanting... This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a cobweb at the bottom of the pot. It is they who participate in the nutrition of the plant and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete soil replacement. She is more suitable for transferring to a larger pot. In this way, the root system will not be injured.
However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves can turn intensely yellow, you need to do the following: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under a greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the soil in the pot should dry out completely (you can do it once every 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, you need to spray the flower very often with plain water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprays depends on the room temperature. The colder it is, the less often it is. Cycron can only be used once a week. When watering for the first time, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After transplanting with a violation of the root system, the dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why high humidity is maintained in the greenhouse.
Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: wrong watering regime. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain the normal turgor of the leaves. In the second, there is too much moisture, which led to decay of the root system. The plant also does not receive enough moisture through damaged roots. Increasing the number of waterings will not solve the problem.
If the dracaena has dropped the leaves from lack of moisture, what should I do? You need to place the flower under the greenhouse and carry out regular spraying. It is impossible to drastically increase the number of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under a greenhouse for 3-5 days. You need to water the flower abundantly, but only after the earthen coma has completely dried. Water from the pallet must be removed.
Dracaena gets an overabundance of moisture... As a result, the root system cannot cope with the excess fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore the dracaena drops its leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Examine the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and watering is reduced. You need to water abundantly, but only after the soil in the pot has completely dried.
If the dracaena has dropped leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. The damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is increased. Cycron can be added to the spray water. The plant is taken out of the greenhouse when it begins to expel new leaves.
Why do dracaena leaf tips dry? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is broken, heavy soil.
Dracaena is a light-loving flower, and therefore very often its leaf tips turn yellow from a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown indoors, the tips of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp for up to 12 hours. The flower should be placed near the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then she is sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.
You have noticed that dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves dry. What to do in such cases? You need to pay attention to the watering regime. Perhaps the plant was overmoistened. As a result, its root system rots, the leaves do not receive enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry out. Dracaena is watered only after the soil in the pot has completely dried out. Watering in this case is carried out plentiful, so that the water flows into the pan through the drainage holes. Water from the pallet is immediately removed. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light colored. Regular spraying will help the flower. Cycron or Epin can be added to the spray water once a week.
Dracaena leaves tips dry if the room humidity is low.... For this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. The plant should not be placed next to heating devices during the heating season.
Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, the stems become thinner and stretched... Reason: The plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is located in the back of the room, where light does not penetrate, or the length of daylight hours is reduced due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing the dracaena near the windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with the obligatory shading from the midday heat. To scatter direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended to illuminate the dracaena with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaves should be 12-14 hours.
With the onset of autumn-winter (period from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dormant period for the dracaena, on the attraction of which the growth of new leaves is not observed. To do this, the temperature of the plant is reduced (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the dormant period, the dracaena slows down its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not drive out new, deformed leaves, its branches do not become thinner.
Among indoor plants, dracaena, which is sometimes called a "false palm", is very popular among flower growers.
Attracted by the deep, rich color of its leaves, the splendor of the crown.
However, if the plant begins to "fall leaves", then everything is for real, without "false modesty" - from the former beauty in a matter of days, one bare stem can remain.
To prevent this from happening (although the reasons can sometimes be objective, and they cannot be avoided), you need to carefully monitor the condition of the green pet and, when you feel that something was wrong, take action.
The main problems with dracaena, like most cultures whose homeland is the tropics, are associated with acclimatization. In an ordinary city apartment the plant often lacks warmth and moisture... And then, and another dracaena must be given in addition, and to do it competently, without going to extremes.
If you find that the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall off, the bark has become wrinkled, then you have overdone it with watering.
If the leaves begin to curl or turn into a tube (this may mean that the plant has died) - therefore, you could not provide the green pet with a comfortable temperature, did not save it from abrupt transitions from one microclimate to another.
Diseases and pests also create problems for the flower, which must be learned to recognize in a timely manner.
Of all the varieties, the threat of "baldness" most often arises in Marginata, in other varieties this problem is less pronounced. The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall off may be as follows:
- natural aging (the leaves of this culture live from 2 to 3 years);
- water scarcity;
- cold air, drafts.
To help the plant, it is important to figure out which of the reasons is killing your flower.
If it is aging, then this is an objective and unregulated process. Fortunately, nature has provided that at the same time all the leaves of the dracaena will not leave - those of them whose due date has come will begin to turn yellow, then curl, turn black and fall off. After some time, new, healthy leaves will appear in the vacated places.
In the event of a lack of water, massive leaf fall does not occur either.
The difference is that the aged leaves dry out completely, and the fallen leaves due to the scarcity of watering still partially retain their vitality.
If the grower overdid it with watering, the plant begins lose green leaves- this is due to the fact that the roots have rotted in the waterlogged soil and the plant dies.
Thermal discomfort (especially cold, draft) is expressed in the loss of green foliage by the plant.
If yellowness on the leaves appears, like gray hair in humans, for natural reasons, it can capture not the whole leaf, but its tips. In this case, specialists recommend pruning, removing only the yellowed part and leaving healthy... This will preserve the decorativeness of the culture.
Often the problem arises due to the fact that the plant does not have enough sun. Most varieties have enough soft, diffused light, and even a short winter day does not have a negative effect on them. However, in some cases, the dracaena cannot do without backlighting and informs the owner of this with the yellowness of its leaves.
A similar reaction occurs due to excessive watering. And if the leaves of the dracaena dropped and turned yellow, this may be caused by a lack of nutrients in the soil. It is especially dangerous to keep a flower on a starvation diet during its active growth - from April to the end of August.
CAREFULLY: If, after watering and spraying, water regularly remains in the leaf axils, this can cause a color change from green to yellow.
This trouble can happen even with young foliage, if the flower grows in the same pot, without replacing the soil, for 3-4 years.
Salts accumulate in it, due to which the plant is not able to fully absorb nutrients, even if the owner regularly feeds his pet.
Salinity kills the suction roots - the main conductor of nutrients into the flower's body.
Due to inadequate nutrition, the tips of old leaves also dry out. In addition, the problem may lie in the structure of the soil - if it is clayey, heavy, poorly permeable to water.
ATTENTION: the tips of the leaves sometimes begin to dry out due to the oversaturation of the soil with fluorine. This element is included in the composition of fertilizers for tropical crops, which should be applied exactly according to the instructions, so as not to harm the flower.
Never comfort yourself with the phrase that "there are spots in the sun too": spots on dracaena leaves pose a threat to flower health and most often appear due to insufficient care of the plant, and their color helps to determine the essence of the problem. Here's what they are talking about:
If the trunk of the dracaena wrinkled, the leaves began to fall off, there is a high probability of mistakes that the owner made, most likely due to inexperience. The main thing is to have time to correct them in time.
Among the most common mistakes:
- improper, too generous watering (in fact, the soil in the pot should dry out between waterings, control its condition by sticking a thin wooden stick into the ground);
- high dryness of the air (remove the flower away from heating devices);
- insufficient illumination (the plant must be provided with additional highlighting);
- exposure to cold air ("washing" with warm water will help frozen leaves);
- lack of nutrients (buy fertilizer in the form of a stick at a flower shop and stick it in the soil - your pet will regularly receive feeding in the amount necessary for it).
ATTENTION: if the leaves turn yellow after an unsuccessful transplant, help the flower to recover by spraying the soil with Epin.
Experts (in order to prevent various diseases) recommend add potassium and phosphorus to fertilizers... Unfortunately, this is not enough to avoid disease completely.
Dracaena diseases can be:
Pests that attack dracaena can be in the soil or get on it from neighboring, already infected, plants. Signs of ill health are cobwebs, specks, sticky plaque. Among pests:
This video tells about another pest of dracaena and how to deal with it:
How to reanimate a dracaena if the trunk is fragile, the bark wrinkles, and the leaves begin to rot? Would need "Surgical intervention" in the form of cuttings: cut off the top of the dracaena and either immediately root it in the ground, or put it in a container of water so that the roots appear. This usually takes 2 months.
If the poor condition of the dracaena is associated with dry air, bring the pet back to life a warm shower will help... To prevent water from flooding the roots, put the pot in a plastic bag and pull its edges around the trunk.
If the stalk (and later - a full-fledged plant) stands in water for too long, its trunk may turn yellow. This is because the aquatic environment promotes the activation of bacteria, and the changed color of the trunk is evidence that the plant may die. You can avoid such a development of events by urgently transplanting the dracaena into a pot of earth.
A plant affected by cold air will be saved by a few sprays of warm water. and placing the pot in a draft-free place. In cases where the temperature dropped below 15 degrees Celsius, there is a great danger that the roots have suffered. If the check shows that this is how it turned out and the roots began to rot, they are removed and the dracaena is transplanted into a new pot. In cases where there are practically no healthy roots left, the top of the flower is cut and rooted.
What to do with a broken dragon tree
The broken woody part of the stem is fairly easy to root. To do this, the place of scrapping must be cut with a sharp knife (the cut must be horizontal), hold in the air for a while so that it dries up, and lowered into a container of water, where a tablet of activated carbon is added (it will save the future plant from decay).
The remaining part of the stem in the pot can also be saved. The fracture site is carefully trimmed and filled with wax. After a short time, shoots will appear on the sides of the trunk.
If it is not a lignified but a green shoot that is broken, it is recommended to root it in moss or sand. In order for the roots to form faster, the tip of the shoot is treated in the "Kornevin" preparation, and then artificial heating is organized (the best temperature is 25 degrees).
ADVICE: if the stalk chosen for rooting is very small, it is stuck in the ground and covered with a glass jar, providing a greenhouse effect.
A novice florist does not have enough experience and flair for growing indoor plants, he most often acquires it by trial and error. However, it is possible to avoid trouble by using some basic rules when choosing a plant and first meeting it.
- When buying a dracaena or other plant, find out its full Latin name. Buying a new unknown plant, many are not interested in its agricultural technology, features, do not know the correct botanical name. Knowing the correct botanical name, you can determine the specific characteristics of a particular species.
- Excessive shading or bright light can harm your dragon tree. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plant. To do this, find out how the plant relates to sunlight. In addition, which is very important, a plant that tolerates sunlight well must be gradually taught to it. This is due to the peculiarities of keeping the plant before purchase - in stores, the light regime necessary for a particular species is rarely observed.
- For most species of dracaena plants, drafts are destructive. Consider this fact when choosing a plant.
- Overflowing or excessive dryness can be extremely harmful to the plant. Watering is of great importance. You should always know what the needs of the plant you bought are. In addition, watering should be done carefully, negligence leads to unpleasant consequences. For a number of species, a necessary condition for a healthy existence in an apartment is constant daily spraying.
- Be careful when feeding the plant. It is very important to understand how much the introduction of nutrients is necessary for the plant. Errors in feeding can lead the plant to illness or death.
- Consider the individual plant needs for potting mix. When replanting, the main mistake is the incorrectly selected soil mixture. Sometimes a transplant is started unnecessarily, at the wrong time. Often too large dishes are taken, which leads to acidification of the soil. Most plants need good drainage, which some people overlook. Plants brought from Holland often do not undergo proper control by the relevant structures, as a result of which they can carry various dangerous pests on themselves or in the substrate. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant the purchased plant with the replacement of the substrate and a careful examination of the roots.
- Need to trim? Crop! Lovers - flower growers often feel sorry for their plant, they are afraid to cut it off. Pruning is necessary for a number of crops, if it is not carried out, the plant grows, stops growing and blooming.
Symptoms of care errors and possible causes.
The upper leaves remain firm but turn yellow: Typically caused by the high calcium content of the soil, in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by the hardness of the water for irrigation.
Leaves lose their shine and look lifeless: Probable cause - too abundant light; another cause may be red spider mites. Even healthy green leaves can look faded if not washed.
Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): The leaves become discolored and yellowish in color, the veins remain green. This usually happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to maintain the green color of the leaf. Watering with water containing a lot of calcium also leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. This can be remedied by using iron chelates or brown algal extract and pouring over softened water.
Leaves discolor until transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is required, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, fertilization with a liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is necessary. More long-term support can be horny flour, which must be gently mixed into the top layer of the earth.
Drooping Leaves: Common causes are either dry soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogged soil (due to poor drainage or too frequent watering). Other reasons may be too much light (especially if the leaves droop regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high an air temperature, a cramped pot, or pests.
Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl up and sometimes become dry. Rolling leaves in plants is a self-defense measure, because this reduces the surface of the leaf and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in too warm place or receives little water. You need to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip it in water and hold it. Choose a cooler place for it.
Leaves Fall Abruptly: Rapid fall of leaves without a prior prolonged period of wilting or discoloration is usually indicative of plant shock. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both lower and higher), a sharp increase in light intensity during the daytime, or a strong cold draft. Sudden leaf fall, especially in tree-like plants, can also be caused by drying out of the soil at the roots.
Leaves turn yellow and fall off: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall off. When this happens with several leaves at the same time, then the likely cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark a place, or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the ground and water less often. Feed regularly with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.
The lower leaves dry up and fall off: Three probable causes are lack of light, too high an air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged to a brighter place. Soak the earth ball completely with water by immersing the pot in water for several hours. Move from a warm place to a cooler environment.
Leaves on new plants fall off: It is natural for newly transplanted, newly purchased or transferred plants from one room to another to lose one or two lower leaves. The shock from a change of scenery can be alleviated by replanting the plant only in a slightly larger pot than the previous one, covering it when moving it home from the store, and transferring it from a poorly lit place to a bright light with an intermediate stay in partial shade for several days.
Dots or spots on leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown, this is most likely due to waterlogged soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water for watering, a sudden drop in temperature, water on leaves, aerosol damage, or disease / pests. If the spots are reddish, silvery white or brownish, the plant is unexpectedly exposed to direct sunlight. If the affected areas get wet and look like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is illness. Some pests can also cause mottling on the leaf surface.
Brown leaf tips or edges: The most likely cause is dry air at the tips of the leaves. Another possible cause is physical injury when the tips of the leaves are frequently touched or pressed against glass or a wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this can be caused by several reasons: waterlogged soil, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much lighting, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.
Small, pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring after the plant has been kept in low light conditions with too high temperatures and over-watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If these symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.
Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or the ingress of water on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.
Torn edges and holes in leaves: Most often appear when physically injured by pets or people (sometimes even just touching an unfold leaf can damage it) or when attacked by pests.
The variegated leaves become monochromatic green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all shoots with solid colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.
Plant grows slowly or does not grow at all: During winter, this is normal for all plants, so do not force it to grow. In summer, the most likely reason for slowing growth is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then the pot may be too small for the plant.
Plant not blooming: Several reasons can cause a mature plant not to bloom at the right time. The most likely reasons are associated with lighting - a lack of light or an unsuitable length of day for the plant. Other reasons may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplanting (some plants bloom only in a cramped pot).
Falling buds: The reasons why leaves fall can also cause buds or flowers to fall. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and being damaged by pests.
Flowers wither quickly: This is usually the result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light, or too high an air temperature.
Green bloom on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of watering problems - occurs when the soil is waterlogged or poorly drained.
White crust on a ceramic pot: There are two probable reasons - using too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.
Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. It is appreciated by amateur flower growers and designers for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite being undemanding and not capricious, dracaena suffers from unintentional care errors, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects its presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.
How to create an optimal microclimate for dracaena
Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing difficult in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But you should still listen to the requirements of the plant, trying to create an environment for her that is as close as possible to that to which she is accustomed in nature.
Dracaena is a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) indoor plant
Table: suitable conditions for growing dracaena
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location | Not far (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. Placement close to the southern window is not recommended in order to avoid sunburn. In the summer, if the dimensions permit, you can take the container out to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts. |
| Lighting | Diffused light or slight partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can survive under completely artificial light if the daylight hours lasts at least 12 hours. |
| Temperature | In spring and summer, it is moderately warm (20–25 ° C). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter, it is slightly lowered to 17–19 ° C. The lower limit is 15 ° C. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (they endure a short-term decrease to 10 ° C). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10 ° C or more can lead to the death of the plant. |
| Air humidity | It normally exists at a standard air humidity of 40-50% (Dracaena Dragon and Godsphere are especially undemanding to it), but gratefully responds to any measures to increase it. The only thing that you should not do is pour water into the sump. In winter, operating radiators dry the air a lot, so it is recommended to spray the ambient air with warm water every 2–3 days. In summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that drops do not fall into the sockets, or arrange a shower, covering the soil with polyethylene. Be sure to wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or sponge at least once a week. |
Choose a place near the window for the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill due to its size
In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is exerted by timely fertilizing and the correct irrigation regime.
In summer, let the soil in the pot dry out about 4–5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick into the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, the intervals are increased to 5–7 days. Rot develops quickly in wet soil when kept cool. Broadleaf dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. A clear signal is drooping leaves that have lost their tone. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.
The material on the conditions of detention of Dracaena Sander will also be useful:
As for dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, moistening the soil well in about half an hour. If you are using a generic indoor plant product, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to a deterioration in the appearance of the leaves. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluorine.
Video: keeping and caring for a flower at home
Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention
Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, these kinds of plant problems are the result of unintentional mistakes by the owner. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to her death, but it will give a florist a lot of trouble.
The most dangerous for her are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant must be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it may be. Otherwise, you can lose the entire collection.
Most often, in order to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:
- quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25-30 days;
- regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of suspect specimens;
- free, without crowding, placement of pots;
- frequent ventilation of the room and maintaining high humidity;
- placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if they are roses or chrysanthemums;
- mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
- treatment of all "wounds" inflicted by Dracaena in;
- implementation of recommendations for plant care, especially those related to watering and fertilization;
- maintaining cleanliness - regular wiping of dust from leaves and carrying out other permitted water procedures.
Diagnosing the problem
The plant gives unambiguous signals to the grower. Deterioration in its appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs, and know what to do in each case.
Table: Symptoms and Possible Causes
| External manifestations | Possible reasons | ||
| Care errors | Disease | Pest | |
| Yellowing and wilting leaves. | Their lifespan is about two years. Otherwise, excessive watering | ||
| Pale, shrinking leaves, deforming, thinning trunks. | Lack of light. | ||
| Falling green leaves. | Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts. | ||
| Dying, curling and falling leaves. | Too poor watering. | ||
| Dry brown leaf tips. | Low indoor humidity. | ||
| Dry tips and small patches of dead tissue on the leaves. | Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of inappropriate fertilizers or watering with hard, unsettled water. | ||
| Leaves losing color saturation and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them. | Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Water droplets focus rays as well as lenses. | ||
| Leaves with yellowish white spots, dry edges. | Low temperature in the room or its sudden changes. | ||
| Discolored "watery" border around the edge of the leaf. | Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing). | ||
| Reddening leaves. | Unsuitable, too heavy soil with a predominance of peat. | ||
| Small white crystals on the inside of the sheet. | A natural phenomenon provoked by a single abundant watering in combination with high humidity. | ||
| Slow growth or none at all. | Unsuitable soil, lack of fertilization for a long time, or too tight a pot. | ||
| A coating similar to flour on the leaves. | |||
| The barrel is brown and soft to the touch. | |||
| Brownish spots gradually covered with gray "nap". | |||
| Dark "watery" spots, softening tissues. | |||
| Yellowing leaves covered with dark brown spots. | |||
| Reddish-yellow, gradually turning brown spots on the leaves. | |||
| Brown spots on the leaves with a bright green border. | |||
| Small beige spots with a white dot in the center. | |||
| Elongated beige spots with a pale red border. | |||
| Vague brown spots with a yellow-green border. | |||
| Dark "watery" leaf tips, "ulcers" on the trunk. | |||
| Bronze-colored brownish spots and stripes. | |||
| Yellow spots on the leaves, petioles braided with cobwebs. | |||
| Silvery "scratches" and small black dots on the leaves. | |||
| Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them. | |||
| Small lumps of whitish matter in the leaf axils and in the ground. | |||
| Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of leaves and sticky drops on them. | |||
What do mistakes in care lead to: examples in the photo
Dracaena, which has dry leaf tips, suffers from too low air humidity or sunburn Dracaena leaves can be shed for several reasons, including natural ones.This is how dracaena most often looks before dropping leaves. Dracaena can very easily get burned if sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight Brown drying dracaena leaves mean long-term neglect of the plant's need for moisture Yellowing of dracaena leaves reacts to overflow
Diseases and how to deal with them
Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, all types of rot are most dangerous, developing very quickly with improper watering. If, at the same time, the temperature in the room is still maintained below normal, this is almost inevitable.
Table: diseases typical for dracaena
| Disease | Symptoms | Treatment and prevention |
| Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle that quickly changes color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die off. |
For prophylaxis, once a month, treat the flower and soil with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol, Topsin-M. |
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| Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually, they are tightened with a layer of greenish-gray bloom. | ||
| Phylostictosis (brown spot) | Blurry, irregular spots of beige-brown color with a lime border. Then small black "grains" are formed in the middle. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena. |
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| Dark brown "watery" leaf tips, brown spots on them, small round "ulcers" on the trunk and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected by a wide yellow "oily" strip. | There are no effective treatments. The development of bacteriosis is provoked by constant dampness in the pot, heat in the room, alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena. | |
| Spotted wilt (bronze) | The leaves are almost completely covered with stripes and irregular spots. Under artificial light, they are brownish, in the sun they shine with bronze. The growth of dracaena almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed. | It is impossible to get rid of the virus with the help of modern means. Plants that do not feed more often suffer from spotted wilting. Potassium and phosphorus deficiency is harmful for dracaena. |
| Yellowness spreading through the leaves from bottom to top. There is a "watery" border along the edge. The top of the trunk withers. He himself becomes thinner, changes color to brick. In especially severe cases, the dracaena becomes covered with "weeping" brown spots. |
For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to the water for irrigation. When replanting, add Gumistar, Trichovit to the soil. |
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| Root (black) rot | Brown roots and base of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive smell coming from it. |
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| Bacterial (wet) rot | Dark "watery" spots on leaves and trunk. The tissues in these places are softened to a semi-liquid state. | |
| Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually covered with a layer of grayish "pile" with multiple small black blotches. |
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| Brown rot (rhizoctonia) | Dracaena stops growing. The leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots. |
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| Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves. |
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| Leaves as if dusted with flour. Gradually, this plaque thickens and turns brown. |
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Photo gallery: what a plant looks like when it is infected with pathogenic fungi and bacteria
It seems that powdery mildew is a harmless plaque that can be easily erased, but this is by no means so Brown spot - a rather rare disease of Dracaena, affected by brown rot, almost stops growing Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn into a semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize in time, and the disease can only be treated in the early stages of development Plants in the garden often suffer from fusarium, but indoor plants are not protected from infection A plant affected by spotted wilting can only be thrown away Bacteriosis is still impossible to cure Phylostictosis most often affects adults and old dracaena Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains fungal spores Tissues affected by Alternaria gradually die off, holes remain on the leaves
Video: treatment of dracaena diseases
Pests attacking dracaena
Most pests, even when they multiply in large numbers, will not kill the dracaena. But this does not mean that there is no need to fight them. The plant did not "bring" any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You will have to deal with the most common insects and mites that feed on its juice.
Table: common pests
| Pest | Symptoms | Control and prevention measures |
| Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the seamy side of the sheet. Gradually they "swell", the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In especially severe cases, the soil turns black. |
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| Thin, almost transparent filaments, intertwining the petioles. On the seamy side of the sheet, there are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them. |
For prevention, spray the plant with a decoction of cyclamen tubers weekly. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides. |
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| Discolored leaves, small black dots and thin silvery-beige "scratches" are visible on the seamy side. |
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| Lumps of dirty cotton-like plaque in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. The leaves turn yellow and dry quickly. |
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| Large colonies of small insects clinging to the underside of leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears. |
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Photo gallery: what pests infecting dracaena look like
Aphids are distinguished by a rare "omnivorous", dracaena is also included in the circle of her interests If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, very soon the plant will be covered with a continuous carpet of moving "fluff" Small black dots on the leaves are nothing but thrips themselves Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general-purpose insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides
Video: common pests of indoor plants and the fight against them
Plant resuscitation
Most often, the dracaena needs urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. Most painfully, she reacts to improper watering - "drought" or "swamp" in a pot.
In the first case, cut off all dry leaves to living tissues, without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Spray every 2–3 days with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the window as southwest or southeast. Water as directed. If the roots are not damaged, in 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off, and hope that the lateral buds will "wake up". But the chances are not so many.
In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Dracaena needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the season. But this procedure does not guarantee success, it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize the new pot and soil. Be very careful with watering at first, but spray the dracaena daily. Select the capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).
What to do with a broken dracaena palm
Dracaena is a rather massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, often the "fractures" she received are the result of the violent activity of children and pets. In this case, don't be upset. If done correctly, you will end up with two instead of one plant.
Broken dracaena is not a reason to arrange a tragedy
The easiest way is when the barrel breaks, but does not break at all. They put "splints" on it, as if on an arm or a leg, and fix the skin so that it would cover the "wound" if possible. The top can be wrapped with strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber.
Don't forget to "seal" the cut
Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:
- Saw off the trunk exactly just below the point of damage. It is advisable to do this on the "scars" left over from fallen leaves.
- Disinfect the cut with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% Bordeaux liquid.
- Fill with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden varnish. If nothing is at hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
- Remove the plant in partial shade. Water in moderation. When the growth buds are formed, return to your normal care.
The material on the reproduction methods of dracaena will also be useful:
Lateral buds on dracaena "wake up" for a long time, be patient
Broken top:
- Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without any "fluff" and chipping. Let dry for 2-3 hours.
- Pull off the interfering leaves. Place in a container with a biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. You can use succinic acid and activated carbon (one tablet for every 200 ml). Alternative - rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The cut will need to be sprinkled with any powdery root stimulant.
- Change the water every 3-4 days, moisturize the substrate regularly. Provide bottom heating, at least 12 hours of daylight, and a temperature of approximately 25 ° C.
- Be patient. The rooting process can take 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaena.
Most often, the broken top of the dracaena is rooted in water.
Video: rooting dracaena cutting
Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune to attacks from diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly looked after rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual mistakes in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can provoke a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what causes certain symptoms and know what to do to cope with the problem.
In some cases, unpretentious dracaena leaves fall. The problem does not arise by itself, so the florist needs to understand its causes.
About why the plant throws off its leaves and how to reanimate it, read on.
Why dracaena sheds leaves: the main reasons
Dracaena sheds leaves due to care errors or disease. Below are the main causes of falling foliage.
Did you know? Word« dracaena» translated as« female dragon» ... The native land of the palm tree is Africa and Southeast Asia.
Violation of growing conditions
The first thing to look at when dracaena leaves fall off is the growing conditions. The reasons are most often:
- wrong soil composition;
- low temperature;
- frequent drafts;
- bright direct light;
- strong shadow.
Lack or excess of fertilizers
Fertilizers are needed for the plant to grow. Many growers allow two extremes: lack or excess of fertilizing. Falling foliage is possible in both cases.
With a meager replenishment, there is no place to take nutrients from dracaena. This situation occurs in several cases:
- rare top dressing;
- small doses of funds;
- the concentration of solutions is lower than indicated in the instructions;
- complete absence of fertilizers.
Excess fertilization is no less harmful. Its negative impact is manifested with such errors:
- too frequent feeding;
- using more funds;
- intensive concentration of the drug;
- feeding during the rest period.
Redefine your approach to palm fertilization. This can be the main reason for leaf discarding. Did you know? The Aztecs called the dracaena "the tree of happiness" and believed that if you cut a small part of the plant's trunk at midnight, it will bring happiness in love.
Improper watering
A common cause of dracaena foliage falling off is improper watering. The plant is harmed by both poor and too abundant moisture:
- insufficient watering: leaves dry out;
- excessive watering: the plant has a soft trunk, the foliage first withers, and then falls off.
Important!TO s Dry-tolerant species include palm trees called Dragon and Godsef. They should not be overly moisturized.
Root damage during transplant
When the dracaena grows roots, it is transplanted into a new pot. In the process of transplanting, the florist is in contact with the rhizome. Careless movements can damage the root system. Such injuries affect the condition of the palm tree. Transplanting to a new place is already stress, and damage to the root intensifies it. In response to injury, the plant sheds its leaves. 
Pests and diseases
Improper care attracts diseases and pests. They often cause foliage to fall off.
Of the diseases, the plant most often affects the fungus:
- stem rot;
- root rot;
- fusarium;
- alternaria;
- phyllostictosis;
- heterosporiasis.
Pests are no less dangerous for dracaena. Often they are the ones that cause the leaves to fall off. The palm tree can be attacked by: - spider mite;
- thrips;
- shield;
- mealybug;
What to do and how to save the plant
Dracaena, whose leaves have fallen, can in some cases be saved. The reasons are more related to mistakes in care, therefore the first actions of the grower are to adjust the growing conditions. If diseases or pests are found, the plant is additionally treated. 
The rules for growing a palm are as follows:
- Temperature. Optimum performance is +20 ... + 25 ° С. The plant will survive if the temperature drops to + 15 ° C. In colder conditions, the palm stops growing.
- Humidity. Most species need a moisture content of at least 60%. To maintain moisture, the plants are sprayed with a spray bottle. Twice spraying a day is enough for normal growth. Do not forget to remove excess water from the axils of the leaves.
- Lighting. Dracaena love diffused light. Bright rays of the sun or shade destroy the palm tree. If the leaves fall off, change the position of the flowerpot. If it is not possible to provide the plant with natural light, buy a phytolamp.
- Watering. Water for irrigation should be soft. Before using it, it must be defended. Cold water is not suitable for irrigation. The frequency depends on the drying out of the soil. If the top 2 cm of the substrate is dry, it can be moistened. Drying speed depends on the season. In summer, the plant is watered once every 2 days. In winter, it is optimal to moisten the soil once every 3 days.
- Fertilizer. The palm tree needs feeding only during the period of active growth. Its usual time frame is from March to early September. Dracaena should be fed once every 2 weeks. Manufacturers offer a wide range of fertilizers for dracaena. Popular means "Rainbow", "Dracaena", "Ideal".
- Transfer. Florists transplant a healthy palm once every 2-3 years. The plant tolerates transplanting best of all in March and April. In case of growing problems, an emergency transplant is possible. Falling foliage due to unsuitable soil or diseases is exactly the case. For a successful procedure, prepare a pot, a drainage mixture, a substrate for dracaena, and water for irrigation. Fill a new pot with drainage and sprinkle some soil over it. Pour dracaena and remove from old pot. Gently clean the root system of the earthy clod. Check roots for rot, remove rot if present. Place the palm tree in a new container, fill in the rest of the soil. Water the palm tree and place it in a suitable place.
- Disease and pest control. For the treatment of flower growers use such drugs: pests are destroyed with insecticides, for example, "Fitoverm", "Aktellik" or "Inta-virom", and fungicides are used against the fungus, such as "Oksikhom" or "Topaz". If the plant is completely affected, rotting and treatment does not help, try replanting the cutting in a new soil to save at least part of it. If it is a viral disease, it cannot be cured. The plant must be disposed of.
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