Parquet board flooring: methods, order and specifics of work. Installing the parquet board Fastening the parquet board to the floor

The range of floor coverings is regularly updated with new products. Often this modern materials, created using the achievements of the chemical industry, but there are also solutions that can be described as "well-forgotten old". A striking example- parquet board. In terms of its aesthetic appeal, durability and reliability, it is comparable to parquet, but the laying of parquet boards is simple and does not require highly skilled workers.

What is parquet board

Parquet board as a view floor covering appeared in the early 1940s. It was created as a cheap and practical replacement for the expensive and demanding parquet masters. Today it is experiencing a rebirth. The main reason for this is the absolute environmental Safety, because the coating is made exclusively from natural wood.

Externally, the parquet board is similar to the usual laminate, but differs from it. internal device. If you look at it in section, you can see three layers of boards of different thicknesses, the direction of the fibers of each of which is perpendicular to the previous one. This design ensures the strength and reliability of the material.

Upper layer

The top (front) layer primarily creates a floor pattern. The slats from which it is assembled are selected according to the pattern, shade and texture, the boards are selected without defects and damage. Some types of boards are covered with veneer of valuable species. This is in a sense a piece product that allows you to create a luxurious and unique floor without much investment.

Apart from exclusively decorative function, the surface is resistant to abrasion and resistant to constant pressure. That is why the upper ball is made of hardwood, the thickness of the layer reaches 4 mm or more.

An additional advantage of the material is that it is completely ready for installation and operation. The front side is polished and impregnated from the factory protective compounds and varnished. All that is required of the consumer is to prepare the subfloor and properly lay the coating.

middle layer

The task of the middle layer is to evenly distribute the load. The best material for this is coniferous wood. Longitudinal fibers give the material resistance to bending, which ensures the durability and reliability of the coating as a whole.

The middle layer is assembled from boards with a thickness of about 7 mm. The width of each of them is up to 30 mm, the package is assembled with glue. Among other things, connection elements are formed in the middle layer, thanks to which the installation of the parquet board will be carried out.

bottom layer

The entire layer cake rests on the substrate. These are one or two solid boards up to 4 mm thick, laid along the long side, which provide stability and do not allow the floor to sag under pressure.

Advantages and disadvantages

Can not be ideal material, the parquet board is no exception. If you are going to lay this coating, you should familiarize yourself with its main advantages and disadvantages.

Let's start with the obvious benefits:

absolute ecological cleanliness;
a masterfully laid board is comparable to parquet in appearance and characteristics;
board is much cheaper than parquet;
easy to install, no experience and knowledge required;
allows the possibility of replacing a section of the floor without completely dismantling it;
does not require subsequent surface treatment, scraping, varnishing;
on sale a wide range of textures and colors.

At good care service life of the coating is 20-30 years. This can be attributed to the disadvantages, because the same parquet will last much longer. Truth, obvious benefits outweigh this disadvantage. And besides everything, you can lay a parquet board with your own hands, but for parquet you will definitely have to invite specialists.

Subfloor preparation

The parquet board is not too picky about the base material. It can equally well be laid on a leveled screed, on a base of wood or plywood, moreover, it can be used to renew an old floor made of ceramic tiles. The only condition is that the base must be reliable and necessarily even.

In any case, before laying the tiles, you need to complete a series of preparatory work. First, you should visually and with the help of a simple building level assess the quality of the floor. Reveal problem areas, take measures to level the surface. Elevations smooth out, cracks expand and close up concrete mortar, they also fill in the recesses.

Note! Such a "patching" repair is possible only if the surface is close to ideal, and the height difference does not exceed 2–2.5 mm per square meter. Otherwise, you will have to think about creating a new subfloor.

The easiest way to prepare the base for a parquet board is with the help of self-leveling compounds. It is easy to work with them, it is enough to dissolve the mixture in water, following the instructions, and pour the solution in an even layer, of course, not forgetting about waterproofing.

You can also consider using sheet material based on wood. Plywood, chipboard or OSB sheets are great for this. Via similar material you can create a new floor on the logs or patch up an old one that is strong enough, but with a large height difference.

The concrete floor must be primed, let the primer dry. A substrate must be laid between the base and the board. Cork seems to be the best material for these purposes. It will smooth out possible irregularities in the base, help to save heat in the house and protect from noisy neighbors.

Coating preparation

The technology of laying a parquet board is not particularly difficult, even a novice master can handle this matter, but in any case, it is easier to work with an assistant. And yet, before you get down to business, it is worth preparing the tool. You will need:

saw hand or electric;
hammer with a rubber head;
level and plastic rule;
spatulas (smooth and notched);
tape measure, square, pencil;
screwdriver;
bracket for pulling rows.

In addition to the tool, you need to prepare the room itself. It would be useful to once again walk on the floor with a vacuum cleaner, pay special attention to the corners, a random pebble can ruin all the work.

Methods for installing a parquet board

As soon as the tool is assembled, and the scope of work is prepared, you can proceed directly to the installation. Here it is worth mentioning that there are three main ways of laying:

floating;
glue fastening;
using additional fasteners.

According to the laying method, longitudinal and diagonal method. When laying longitudinally, the boards are placed parallel to the wall, moving towards the door, in the second case, diagonally from one of the corners. The longitudinal method is simpler, there is not much waste left in the process of work, but the diagonal one looks more impressive.

floating laying

The peculiarity of floating laying is that the boards are not attached to the floor. The rigidity and immobility of the coating is achieved only thanks to reliable locking connections. It is from this that all the pros and cons of such a configuration emerge:

just lay;
it is easy to correct mistakes made in the course of work;
it is easy to replace several damaged boards;
it is possible to dismantle the floor and literally move it to another room;
the coating is immune to changes in humidity and temperature;
savings on adhesives.

As disadvantages, it is worth noting the need for careful leveling of the subfloor, the limitation on the surface area, you should not use this method if the room is more than 50 square meters. It is also impossible to lay a board in a similar way in a room where a high load on the floor is expected.

Step-by-step instruction for work is as follows.

First lay the board along the longest wall of the room, from left to right. The part of the castle that will be facing the wall is cut off from the board. A full row is assembled, the edge board is cut in place.
The coating should recede from the walls by 10–15 mm; to achieve this, expansion wedges are used. Many recommend that before installing them, completely assemble three rows, then put the wedges and pull the finished canvas with a bracket, setting it in desired position. The boards of each subsequent row are laid with a shift, if necessary, selecting a pattern.
The following rows are sequentially collected, if necessary, the canvas is knocked out with light blows of a rubber hammer. The most difficult thing is to lay the last row. Each plank must be precisely adjusted in width, while it is important not to forget to leave a gap around the edge to compensate for thermal expansion.

As soon as the coating is completely laid, the wedges are removed, the skirting boards and door sills are mounted. It is advisable to turn on the floor heating or any heating device to raise the temperature in the room and the board sits in place.

Glue mounting

The essence of this method is reflected in its name - the parquet board is glued to the base using special adhesives. This method is more laborious, but it also has a number of significant advantages:

there is no restriction on the area and purpose of the premises;
Can be used in conjunction with underfloor heating.

But this is a labor-intensive installation, and in the future it will be problematic to correct the mistakes made, to replace the damaged area. The floor will cost more due to the need to purchase glue. Before starting operation, you will have to wait for the glue to harden.

It is worth noting that you need to buy the right glue, the composition of which is suitable for the specific selected board. In addition, you need to work very carefully to prevent glue from getting on the front side of the coating.

As in the first case, laying is carried out along the longest wall. Before applying the glue, the board is laid out, the last one is cut off to make a full-fledged row.

On the prepared surface, a layer of glue is applied with a width of 80-100 mm exceeding the width of the board. The adhesive is evenly distributed over the area with notched trowel.

Spacer wedges are placed between the first row and the wall. Boards are laid, they must be joined immediately using locking joints. Each laid plank is pressed for a better grip. After laying the entire row, it must be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle into the grooves of the lock.

The operation is repeated. Glue is applied, the next row is laid with a shift of half or a third of the length. First, the ends of adjacent boards are connected, then they are attached to the previous row. If a gap has formed, you must immediately get rid of it, move the row using a wooden block and a hammer.

The finished coating is left for several days until the glue dries completely. After that, the plinth and thresholds are mounted. It will be useful to process the floor special composition, which will fill the joints, create a perfectly flat surface.

Mounting with additional fasteners

The third option is ideal for creating a floor on a wooden base. It can be logs, plywood or OSB base, old floorboards. A feature of the method is that each board is attached to the base using self-tapping screws or staples.

The optimal floor created using this method seems to be a structure on logs. The advantages of this approach are obvious - heat-insulating or sound-proofing materials can be laid in the space between the beams.

The parquet board can be laid directly on the logs, in this case it is necessary to choose a thick (at least 22 mm) material. Logs should lie at a small distance from each other (less than 0.5 m). The board is attached across the lag, the joints should be located in the middle of the lag.

There is another way to create a floor on logs, it will take more time, but it will help save on material. An additional plus can be considered the fact that the owners are not limited to simple longitudinal laying, they can lay the board diagonally, creating complex patterns, for example, a herringbone. In this case, plywood sheets with a total thickness of about 20 mm are attached directly to the logs, and a parquet board is already on it. This greatly simplifies the work of laying and removes the limitation on the thickness of the board.

The parquet board is a good choice for beautiful and practical flooring. The board is perfect for stylish apartment and country house. It is easy to work with it, its styling does not require special equipment and skills, even a beginner can handle it. The parquet board is not so expensive, and the trowels laid out, it is in no way inferior to the noble parquet.

The parquet board has become a replacement for the well-known parquet. Much cheaper and easier to install. However, the latter is not entirely true. Yes, installation of a parquet board is easier, but this does not mean that installation will not take time and effort. You can also screw up here, which will lead to spoiled material. The right technology for laying parquet boards is the key to high-quality flooring. We will analyze how to properly lay the material in the article.

Before buying a material, you need to know its advantages and disadvantages. What are the advantages of parquet boards? The board length reaches two meters, there is no need to lay small separate planks. Previously, planks were made on the basis of two layers, but now manufacturers have begun to produce a three-layer material, so it is much stronger and tougher.

All three layers are made on the basis of natural wood, which means that the material has all the advantages of wood. Absolutely eco-friendly and safe, suitable for installation in the nursery.

Planks are attached to each other in a locking way, like a laminate. If you compare these two materials, you can find flaws here and there. More durable and wear-resistant all the same laminate. But only the class starting with marking 3. If you plan to buy a class with marking 2, then there is no difference.

Decorative properties of a parquet remain always on top. Lovely appearance wood flooring will delight you for a long time. Over time, the material will not lose its external data, if properly cared for.
However, when decorating an interior, a parquet board will not suit any style. Wooden floors rarely fit into modern stylistic trends, they are more suitable for classic ones.

It has a parquet board and cons. One of the biggest drawbacks is the fear of temperature changes. Like any material natural wood, the bar reacts to changes in air temperature: in summer the board shrinks, and in winter, on the contrary, it swells.
There may be gaps that need to be removed. The board will not withstand heavy loads. Therefore, it is not recommended to put heavy furniture on it, so as not to damage the material. At the same time, the board is afraid of cleaning with chemicals and moisture.
Of course, if you have the funds to buy a particularly durable material coated with various kinds of protection compounds, then the board is quite suitable, but if your budget is limited and you do not want to spend either time or money on surface care, it is better to abandon the board in benefit of laminate.
Boards are divided into three types according to their type: select, nature and rustic. Select is suitable for those who like perfectly even and smooth surfaces. You will not find any defects on the board. At the same time, the texture of the board is monophonic.

Natur board is distinguished by a wide choice of colors. If a standard wooden pattern does not fit your interior, then you can choose this type. But you can meet knots on it. Rustic is suitable for a certain interior. This type is designed for a specific design because the board will be uneven with knots and cracks. It is more suitable for decorating your own rustic-style home than for an apartment.
There are two ways to install a parquet board: floating and adhesive. The latter is rarely used. This option is possible only if you install the board immediately on concrete pavement. This will significantly reduce the life of the material.

Boards are also laid on glue in rooms with high humidity. Thus, the joints are completely sealed and water will not penetrate under the material. But laying the board in the kitchen is a dubious undertaking.

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying

The installation of a parquet board is not much, but still different from the installation of materials of this type. It has its own characteristics, which cannot be neglected. Therefore, do not use "general" installation guides, but always refer to the installation instructions for a specific material.

Purchase of material

The choice of parquet boards is not limited to color and texture. It is also important to choose the type of wood. The modern market has more than fifty various options. At the same time, the quality will also differ depending on the type of tree. Buy material from trusted sellers. It is easier to order through companies that themselves establish they have no marriage.

When choosing a color, give preference to light tones. On such a coating, scratches and other defects will not be visible. If you still want a dark board, then choose a matte finish. Gloss, of course, looks expensive and luxurious, but the slightest flaws will be visible on the surface. And over time, these are formed in any case.
If you are going to install a "warm floor" system under the board, then this is quite possible. But you can not use varieties of wood that absorb moisture. You perform the installation of the system entirely at your own peril and risk. Check the board for cracks at the joints. Defects on the surface are left on purpose, but no deviations along the edge of the board are allowed. Check everything thoroughly.

Foundation preparation

Preparing the floor for a parquet board is one of the most milestones. The appearance of the cladding depends on how carefully you carry out the preparation work. Often the cause of deformation of the floor covering is precisely the wrong preparation of the base.
First of all, the base must be level. Small deviations are allowed, not exceeding 2 mm per linear meter. If the irregularities are visible to the naked eye, then you will have to fill in the screed.
If it is already there, then check its quality.

Small holes and cracks can be repaired with putty, but in case of large damage old material must be removed and filled with a new one.

After leveling, be sure to check the moisture content of the concrete base. This can be done using a special device or the old-fashioned way: a film is glued to the adhesive tape and left for a day. If there is no condensation, then the humidity level is normal.
If you are laying a new floor on wooden base then you need to check the old coating for cracks and holes. Small cracks can be covered with putty, and in large cracks a plank is placed according to the size of the hole and sealed with the same putty. Some advise using a sealant, but it can crack later.

Substrate laying

The problem with many floor coverings is the need to lay the underlay. The cost of the material can reach the price of the facing coating. At the same time, it is not profitable to use cheap analogues, because the substrate must withstand the same service life as the cladding. Before laying the substrate, it makes sense to lay a layer of waterproofing. In her good quality ordinary film. The sheets are overlapped by 15 cm and go to the wall, and they are fastened together with adhesive tape.

The substrate acts as an additional guarantor of the protection of the facing material. It can take on itself into the water if it hits the material, hides small irregularities in the base. And most importantly, the substrate prevents the bar from rubbing against the base, which increases its service life.

Alternatively, you can use expanded polystyrene from inexpensive options. The highest quality material is cork sheets, but their cost is high. The substrate is laid end-to-end, no overlaps. Covers the entire perimeter of the floor. For fixing to the base, double-sided tape is suitable, which is glued at the junction of two sheets. The substrate does not fit under the installation on the adhesive.

Floor covering installation

floating method

The answer to the question of how to lay a parquet board depends on the chosen installation method. Floating installation starts from the opposite corner from the door. In this case, the planks are laid along a long wall. Before work, install wedges with a gap of 1 cm. This is necessary so that the board has a move if it dries out. The gaps are then closed with skirting boards.

The first bar is installed with the back to the wall. The second is attached to the lock to the pen. At the same time, you will hear a characteristic click - it means that the lock has clicked into place. This is how the whole row fits. The last plank usually needs trimming.

The next row is connected to the previous one. At the same time, it also needs to be docked with the already installed bar of the new row. Different manufacturers make different mechanisms. Somewhere you must first insert the planks of the previous row into the groove, and somewhere you need to dock with the board in the row. Read the instructions carefully.
Thus, the entire floor is filled. After the boards are installed, the wedges are pulled out. If you laid the film, then it is cut off and skirting boards are placed.

glue method

Installation is carried out on a special glue for parquet boards. In this case, the substrate is not installed. The adhesive is applied to the base with a notched trowel. Spread it evenly over the floor area. After that, the planks are simply laid on the glue, and the excess is rubbed off. On such a floor can not be walked until the composition is completely dry.

Sometimes a parquet board is laid on logs. The technology is completely identical to laying a conventional wooden floor. But this option is only suitable for boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

But since the parquet board is not the most durable material, this method is rarely used.

Those who want to emphasize their status, wealth and good taste should pay attention to parquet when choosing flooring. It has high reliability, environmental friendliness, good wear resistance and excellent appearance. The process of laying parquet has always been one of the most complex types works, but with the advent of massive parquet boards, everything has become much easier. Laying a parquet board is a fairly simple matter, and you can do it yourself, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and follow certain rules and recommendations.

There are two types of parquet board on the market today: solid parquet board and multilayer parquet board. They differ in the way they are produced.

Massive parquet board made from a single piece of wood with a groove and a ridge on the ends. For its manufacture, both deciduous and coniferous woods are used.

The multilayer parquet board consists of different breeds wood

Created by combining several types of wood with different characteristics, thereby achieving exceptional board performance. For the first layer of lamellas, hard and valuable types of wood are used. It is from the first layer that the appearance and strength of the parquet board will depend. The second layer of lamellas is located perpendicular to the first, and softwood is taken for it. This layer is used as a connecting element for both this panel and neighboring ones. The third layer is made of plywood or pine or spruce lamellas up to 4 mm thick.

In addition, the parquet board is sold already coated at the factory and impregnated against fungi and decay. Regardless of the type of parquet board, its durability and strength are directly affected by compliance with the technology of production, storage and installation. And if on manufacturing process and storage conditions cannot be influenced, then the laying process can be controlled, but it is better to do it yourself.

The specifics of laying parquet boards

To create a strong and durable flooring from a parquet board, skill in using a tool will not be enough. If during the work you do not adhere to the laying technology, a reliable and beautiful parquet will not work. Therefore, before laying a parquet board, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work and adhere to certain technological requirements.

First of all, what you should pay attention to is the base on which the parquet board will be laid. It should be smooth, durable, without cracks, depressions and drops. The maximum allowable height difference is 2 mm per 1 linear meter. If the base is damaged, it should be repaired or rebuilt.

The second important point to pay attention to is the level of humidity in the room. The parquet board does not tolerate high humidity, so its installation in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen is undesirable.

Thirdly, after the purchase and delivery of the parquet board, it must be allowed to mature indoors for 48 hours. And only after the board "gets used" to the microclimate of the room, you can start laying it.

Fourthly, in order to get a really strong and durable coating, during laying in the room, it is necessary to observe a certain level of humidity, within 35-65%, and a temperature not lower than +18 ° C.

Scheme of laying parquet board

Another requirement for laying parquet boards is the presence of a substrate and waterproofing, regardless of the type of base and room. The parquet board itself should be laid in the direction of the light rays to hide the shadows at the joints.

Substrate preparation for laying

Before laying the parquet board, the surface is leveled with a self-levelling compound.

Parquet boards can be installed on both concrete and wooden bases. The main requirements for it are strength, reliability and Smooth surface. Therefore, before laying, it is necessary to revise the base and, if necessary, carry out work to repair it.

Preparing the wood floor

If the parquet board will be laid on a wooden floor, it should be checked for dips, squeaks and differences between the floorboards. If the floor is in excellent condition, but there are small differences and gaps between the floorboards, then it needs to be leveled. To do this, the surface can be cycled and puttied, then sanded and proceed to further laying work. If the floorboards creak or dangle a little, they can be fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws, and the surface can be scraped and puttied. But if the wooden floor fails, you will have to disassemble it to the lag, align or partially replace them, and then reassemble the entire structure.

Preparing a rough concrete base

With a concrete base, the situation is somewhat simpler. Its surface should be checked for cracks, drops or depressions. If present, the surface should be cleaned of debris, filled with self-levelling compound and allowed to dry for several days. But if the concrete is cracked, turned into dust and staggers in places, then you will have to use a perforator to remove the old concrete screed and fill in a new one. And only after the concrete has dried, you can start laying the parquet board.

How to properly lay parquet board

Before laying a parquet board, it is necessary to decide on the method of laying it. There are only two of them - glue and glueless (floating).

Gluing the parquet board to the base creates monolithic structure

Adhesive laying method allows you to create a durable and reliable coverage in large areas. The process itself is quite laborious and requires increased attention and accuracy of work. In addition, if it becomes necessary to replace one panel, you will have to tinker a lot and, possibly, replace several neighboring panels at once. The glueless method is the simplest and fastest. The panels themselves are interconnected into a lock and laid on a substrate, while the lock connection is sometimes glued.

Installation of parquet board is carried out as follows:

on a concrete or wooden base we lay waterproofing from polyethylene film. We lay the film sheets with an overlap (15 - 20 cm) and glue them together with adhesive tape. We also make an overlap of 10 - 15 cm on the walls and glue it with tape;

on top of the film we lay the substrate. For these purposes, you can use foamed polyethylene, polystyrene or cork. Polyethylene foam and cork are sold in rolls, and polystyrene in the form of mats. We spread the sheets of foamed polyethylene and cork along the entire length of the room and glue it with adhesive tape. We lay the polystyrene mats end-to-end and “out of the way”, glue the joints with adhesive tape. If the plans are to create an absolutely eco-friendly floor covering, then cork should be used as a substrate.

The adhesive way of laying a parquet board requires a base made of moisture-resistant plywood

Important! If it is planned to glue the method of laying the parquet board, then waterproof plywood is used as the substrate. Its sheets are laid directly on the base and fixed with self-tapping screws. We start laying from the walls, moving towards the middle of the room so that the last row of sheets lies between the two previously laid.

now it is necessary to carry out small calculations of the number of rows of parquet boards. If it becomes necessary to cut the last row, and its width is less than 5 cm, then you will have to make the first and last row of the same width;

The first row of parquet boards is laid with a spike against the wall (the spike is cut beforehand)

we lay the panels of the first row with a spike to the wall;

Important! For a tighter fit, the spike on the longitudinal side of the panels must be cut off.

since wood tends to expand or shrink depending on the seasonal humidity level, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 - 15 cm between the wall and the parquet board. In order to maintain this gap during laying, we insert special pegs. We put three pegs on the longitudinal side of one panel, and two on the narrow one;

For a snug fit, we finish the parquet boards with a hammer

we connect the panels of the first row together into a lock. To do this, we insert each next panel at a slight angle with a spike into the groove of the previous one and finish it off with a hammer through a wooden block for a snug fit;

In addition to gluing the parquet board to the base, we fix it with pneumatic nails into the groove

Important! If we use the adhesive method of laying, then before laying each new panel, apply glue to the place of its laying and level it with a notched trowel. We additionally fix the panels with pneumatic nails in an inconspicuous place - inside the groove. It is necessary to ensure that parquet panels at narrow joints do not form ledges or bevels.

For greater strength, the laying of the parquet board must be done "in a row"

In order for the parquet to be a reliable and durable floor covering, it should be laid "in a row". Therefore, we begin to lay the second row with a shorter board. To do this, you will have to cut the board so that it is 2/3 of the normal length;

the second row of panels is connected to each other in the same way as the first, then the entire row moves up to the first and connects. We insert the panels of the second row at a slight angle into the groove of the first row and, for a tighter fit, finish the panels with a hammer through the bar. We do this gradually, first the first panel, then the second, and so on until the end;

Important! The last panels in each row should be finished with a clamp. At adhesive method laying the second row is laid by dialing. To do this, glue is applied to the place of laying and immediately the parquet panel is laid, which is hammered, and only after that the next one is laid. We fix the second row of panels additionally in the same way as the first.

we begin to lay the third row of panels from the board, the length of which is 1/3 of the normal one. After that, laying is carried out according to the algorithm of the first and second rows;

we begin laying the fourth row from the whole panel. We lay each next row, completely repeating the above-described laying algorithm for the first four rows;

when laying a parquet board near doorways, it is necessary to make cutouts in the board so that it fits snugly against the door frame posts;

special attention must be paid to places in the room where the riser of heating pipes passes. To make laying in such places, it is necessary to mark the position of the pipes on the parquet board. After that, drill a hole for the pipe with a diameter of 2 mm larger than the pipe itself, and cut off part of the board exactly in the middle of the hole. Now we put in place most of the board, fix it. Apply glue to the ends of the cut piece and put it in place. Around the pipe we lay a special plug of the same color as the parquet;

when the parquet board is laid over the entire area of the room, we take out the spacer pegs between the wall and the first row;

The final stage of work on laying parquet boards is the installation of skirting boards. The plinth itself is attached to a special fastener - a kleimer. To install the skirting board, first cut off the protruding part of the substrate and waterproofing with a knife. Then we install the first kleimers at a distance of 15 - 20 cm from the corners, we install the next kleimers in increments of 40 - 50 cm. The kleimers for the plinth themselves are attached to the wall with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Important! If glue was used during the laying process, it is necessary to let it dry for a day, after which the floor covering from the parquet board will be ready for use.

Parquet board and "warm floor"

The parquet board itself is good enough thermal insulation material In addition, the substrate provides additional thermal insulation. But if there is a need for additional heating, then the parquet board can be laid on the “warm floor” system. The main thing to consider is the type of "warm floor". It should be water heated, but not electric. The fact is that "warm floors" with electric heating they gain high temperature too quickly, and as a result, the interlock of the parquet board begins to crack from a sharp temperature drop.

Also, before starting the laying process, it is necessary to turn off the system in advance and allow the floors to cool to room temperature, and only after that start laying. Upon completion of all work on the installation of the parquet board, the "warm floor" system can be turned on no earlier than after 7 days, and the temperature can be raised to the previous level gradually, 2-3 degrees per day. In addition, in order for the floor from the parquet board to “not lead”, the temperature over the entire surface must be the same. If the "warm floor" system is installed in all rooms, it is necessary to make sure that the parquet floor ends in the doorways in each room.

The parquet board served as an alternative to classic parquet, which made it possible to create beautiful and natural floors on their own, significantly saving on the services of hired craftsmen. But like any natural material, parquet board requires careful work and compliance with all standards, requirements and recommendations of the manufacturer, following which you can create a reliable and durable floor covering.

Hardwood flooring is a popular floor covering that you can install yourself if you choose the right one. necessary materials and spend some time learning about existing styling methods. Today we will talk about the parquet board and common technologies for its installation.

Parquet board - characteristics and design features

The first prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when Sweden came up with a way to replace an expensive block parquet more accessible board. Initially, the board was two-layer, but after 5 years three-layer boards appeared on the market. facing materials which have survived to this day almost unchanged.

Currently, parquet boards are produced with various varnish and oil coatings. Such facing materials allow, with relatively small financial investments attractively and aesthetically decorate the floor in an apartment or a private house. On the market, they are presented in the widest range of colors, textures and technical characteristics, so that the cladding can be chosen for almost any interior.

A modern board is a three-layer shield made of natural wood, up to 2.6 m long, 13 mm thick and 139–210 mm wide. Specifications finishes vary by manufacturer. The top layer of wood is always covered with protective oil or varnish mixtures, which not only prolong the life of the cladding, but also make the board as attractive as possible.

The bottom layer of the finishing material is made of spruce veneer 2–4 mm thick. It acts as a stabilizer, prevents deformation of other layers and protects them from negative impacts. The middle layer has a thickness of 8 mm, it is made of pine planks up to 30 mm wide, which are laid out across the entire width of the product. The top or front layer is lamellas with a thickness of 5 mm or more, made of reliable wood of expensive species. The slats are laid along the entire length of the board and are securely fixed to the middle layer with glue. The top layer provides the parquet board with its excellent visual characteristics and long service life.

The top layer of the cladding is subjected to grinding and additionally treated with protective mixtures. During operation, the board can be re-sanded and re-treated with varnish or oil compositions. Since the material allows at least three grindings and re-coatings, the board can serve the owner of the house for several decades. The fibers of the layers are arranged perpendicular to each other, so that the floor covering is not subject to deformation due to changes in humidity and ambient temperature.

Laying a parquet board without much difficulty can be done independently, since this material has a tongue and groove locking system.

3 styling methods - which one to choose for yourself?

Before buying finishing material, you need to understand existing ways its installation. There are three options for fixing parquet panels on the floor surface:

1. On glue.
2. Floating method.
3. On the logs.

All three mounting options have their own unique features, advantages and disadvantages. The most common method is floating installation, but it is only suitable if parquet slabs with a thickness of no more than 14 mm are installed. The main advantage of the floating method lies in its simplicity - even people who do not have any experience in working with facing materials can easily perform laying, and the floor can be safely operated immediately after the repair is completed.

The adhesive installation method involves fixing the boards on the base with passing gluing of the facing layer elements together. This method is usually used when installing dies with a thickness of more than 14 mm. The disadvantages of installing on glue include laboriousness installation work, as well as additional costs for the purchase of adhesive composition.

The mechanical installation method is fixing the boards with self-tapping screws on a wooden base or on logs. It is usually used for mounting panels with a thickness of more than 20 mm and involves fastening with self-tapping screws that are screwed into the groove of the board at a certain angle. That is, it is necessary to choose the method of installing the board not only taking into account personal preferences and capabilities, but also depending on the thickness of the facing materials used.

How to prepare the base for the installation of facing materials

The procedure for installing the coating will largely depend on the condition of the subfloor. Usually, the preparation of the base includes three stages of work. First, the floor is restored, then adjustments and cleaning are carried out, after which it is already possible to proceed directly to the installation.

To begin, consider the procedure for preparing for facing a wooden floor. First of all, it is necessary to assess the condition of the foundation. If the floor is new, does not have significant defects and significant differences in height, and the boards are not infected with fungus and mold, then the coating does not need to be restored. If you need to veneer the old floor, then it will almost certainly need to be repaired. Typically, wood floor repairs involve replacing individual damaged planks.

If repairs can often be dispensed with, then adjustment of the base before facing is almost always required. Most often, wood flooring has deflections of boards, knots and cracks. In the presence of deflections individual elements it is necessary to strengthen, knots are removed by grinding, and cracks are closed with improvised means. It is very important to check the surface for evenness before installing the finish cladding. If the base is curved, then before laying the board it will have to be treated with sanding equipment or puttied. After these adjustments, it remains only to carry out a thorough cleaning of the premises.

If you plan to lay parquet materials on a concrete base, then the procedure for its preparation will most likely require a minimum of effort. The concrete floor should first be inspected for cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle concrete where it crumbles. Found defects must be eliminated. The easiest way to do this is with a self-levelling compound. If the floor is in very poor condition, then it will be easier to dismantle the old coating and pour in a new screed, which will definitely be even and strong enough for finishing.

Regardless of the chosen method of installation, it is best to lay the parquet board on a layer of a special substrate. The substrate between the rough coat and the finish veneer performs whole line important functions:

1. Smoothes minor unevenness of the base.
2. Improves the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the cladding.
3. Reduces the chance of moisture getting into the wood finish.
4. Evenly distributes the load on all elements of the cladding.
5. In general, prolongs the life of the finish.

Usually foamed polyethylene is used as a substrate, although today substrates are very popular with owners. duplex, layers of foil materials, polystyrene and cork.

Step-by-step instructions for installing on glue - do it together

Adhesive installation is a rather complicated and labor-intensive way of laying a floor covering. Modern adhesive compositions they freeze very quickly, therefore, no mistakes should be made during installation, because it will be very difficult to fix them. Installation on glue involves the installation of cladding plates directly on the base, so the floor must be perfectly flat and clean.

It is not recommended to lay the board directly on the concrete floor, as the floor in this case will be very cold. Better lay it on the surface first moisture resistant plywood. Plywood is cut into squares with a length of one side from 60 to 80 cm. The sheets are first glued to concrete (glue is smeared both on the floor and on plywood sheets), after which they are additionally fixed with dowels. Between separate plywood sheets there should be a gap of 3–5 mm so that they do not deform during thermal expansion. It will be possible to start further installation after 2-3 days from the moment the plywood is fixed, so that the glue has time to dry completely. After drying, the surface is sanded to remove adhesive residue, burrs and possible irregularities.

Now you can attach the parquet board to the plywood. To do this, we recommend using a two-component polyurethane adhesive, mix it immediately before use. The first board is attached near one of the walls. We carefully coat it with glue and press it to the base so that its groove is directed towards the opposite wall, and there is a gap of about 1–1.5 cm between it and the nearest wall. In order not to make a mistake, first place pegs or thin bars near the wall, which can be removed after installation.

The first board must be fixed more tightly on the base, for this we fasten it to the plywood with self-tapping screws. We screw the self-tapping screws into the front side in places where the skirting boards will be installed after installation. Then you need to coat the second board with glue and insert its spike into the groove of the first cladding element, and after that we knock the second board so that it connects as tightly as possible with the first. Thus, we install all the boards of the row to the wall. If necessary, we cut the last board along, and after installation we fix it with self-tapping screws, like the first one. Each subsequent row is also mounted, difficulties can arise only with last row which may need to be cut to length.

Floating method - simple and fast

Floating laying technology is rightfully considered the simplest and fastest. It involves fixing facing materials in a dry way using the provided lock system without glue or screws. Before starting laying, the lining must be brought into the room and left there for two days. After that, a special substrate is laid on the floor, which protects the parquet from excess moisture.

First, the first board of the first row is laid with a ridge against the wall. Then the second board of the first row is inserted into the lock of the first board until a characteristic click and is securely fixed by several blows with a special hammer. Laying continues until you reach the wall, at the wall the board is usually cut lengthwise so that there is a gap of 10 mm between it and the wall. After that, we proceed to the installation of the next row of cladding.

To increase the reliability of fixation, the ends of the boards can be pre-lubricated with glue. On the one hand, such a connection will be more reliable, but on the other hand, it will deprive the floating installation method of the main advantage, which consists in the possibility, if necessary, to perform a simple repair of the floor through its partial disassembly and replacement of damaged elements.

Features of mounting the cladding on the logs

Laying the finish on the logs is much more difficult than mounting in a floating way. First, you need to install the crate, which is made of wooden bars. For mounting the log, bars with a cross section of 50–100 mm are used. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete base, the insulation strips are interconnected with adhesive tape. The waterproofing should go onto the walls to a height of about 20 cm. The first log is laid on the waterproofing along the length of the wall and with a distance of no more than 5 cm from the wall. Logs are laid along all walls in exactly the same way, and then they are connected and leveled. Smaller lags are laid between them, which should form squares. The distance between individual bars should be no more than 35–40 cm.

After checking and leveling the lag, they are fixed on the base with dowels. Many experts recommend filling the empty space between the lags with sand so that the parquet does not sag, if you don’t want to use sand, you can simply install the bars at a smaller distance from each other, for example, in increments of 25 cm.

Now you can start installing the board. The first workpiece is placed with a comb to the wall at a distance of 10 mm and fixed on the logs with nails, hammering them into the bottom base of the board at an angle of 45 °. Hats must be sunk into the board with a doboynik. The next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one and snapped into place, after which it is fixed with nails on the logs. The boards should fit snugly against each other, the allowable gap is no more than 0.5 cm. The last board is cut in width so that there is a gap of at least 1 cm between it and the wall. After that, the subsequent rows of cladding are installed using the same technology.

"Warm floor" and parquet board - is it possible to combine?

The parquet board is different good performance sound and heat insulation, but you can make living in the premises even more comfortable if you install a heating system such as "warm floor". However, not all heating systems are suitable for installation under wooden cladding. Professionals believe that it is allowed to install a water-heated floor, but from using electrical systems must be discarded, as they create too high a temperature, the effect of which on the facing materials can lead to their premature damage, cracking and other defects.

Installation of the cladding must be carried out on top of the disconnected and completely cooled heating system. After completion of installation work, turning on the heating is possible no earlier than after 2-3 days. After this time, you can gradually turn on the heating, but at the minimum temperature, increasing it by several degrees daily until it reaches the desired level.

It is very important to pay attention to the allowable temperature exposure to the cladding before buying it. Many types of parquet boards can withstand contact with a temperature of no more than 25-27 degrees. Choose those Decoration Materials that can withstand the temperature effects created by the heating system installed in your home.

Parquet board is rightfully considered one of the most aesthetic and durable flooring options for any room - be it a kitchen, a bedroom, a living room or a corridor. But even such a high-quality and spectacular material can be easily spoiled by unsuccessful installation. How to avoid such trouble? Hire a construction team or still try to lay the parquet board with your own hands? Definitely the second option. This is a completely feasible task if you do the installation according to the instructions, step by step, based on photo and video installation technology. Specifically, what and how to do, you will learn further.

Choosing a quality coating

Before proceeding with the installation, it is important to choose good board, which will meet all the operational requirements of your premises. From the point of view of practicality and durability, the best option is a massive parquet board. It consists of three layers:

The working top is made of solid wood. It can have a thickness of 1 to 6 mm. For additional protection, it must be covered with a special varnish or oil.

The middle layer is short plates of hard conifers. Here are the connecting parts for connecting the boards to each other.
The lower layer of massive material is made of soft softwood. Its thickness is not less than 2 mm. The main function of the bottom layer is to prevent the board from buckling.

Cheaper but also less durable option– multilayer parquet board: upper layer- softwood, middle - plywood, bottom - the same processed plywood or spruce or pine plates. This finish is stylized as a print of solid boards or traditional parquet.

Preparing the subfloor

Before the start of laying the boards, you need to correctly prepare the subfloor so that in the future there will be no problems with the appearance of the coating.

First, clean the base from cement, paint, glue, hardeners and other coatings. If there are cracks and bulges on the floor, the surface must be leveled. To do this, you can use a self-leveling mixture, cement screed or plywood.

The last option has proven itself best - plywood sheets not only level the floor, but also make it warmer. It is not difficult to lay them: the sheets must be attached to the base of the floor with ordinary self-tapping screws with gaps of at least 5 mm, and then processed with a grinder.

Attention! An important point is the humidity of the floor. Its rate should not be higher than 3%. Humidity can be measured with a moisture meter. If the level is above 3%, lay on the base vapor barrier film and close the resulting joints with construction tape.

After leveling the floor, you need to mount a special substrate on it - it will separate the new coating from the rough base. As a substrate can be used:

leaf cork;
foamed polyethylene;
felt cardboard;
extruded polystyrene foam.

After the arrangement of the substrate and the complete drying of the base, proceed to laying the parquet board. This can be done in two ways: glue and floating.

Advice. Whatever laying option you choose, before installing the boards, let them rest for two or three days in the room where they will be laid - this will allow the material to "get used" to the new climatic conditions.

Adhesive board laying

This option involves laying boards by gluing them to the base of the floor, that is, to the substrate. When purchasing an adhesive, make sure that it is exactly the right one for your type of parquet. Installation is carried out in several stages:

Treat the base with a synthetic primer.
When the primer dries, lay out the first row of boards on the floor and schematically mark their location.
Take the first board, carefully apply glue to it and fix it to the floor.

Attention! Between the wall and the parquet board there should be gaps of at least 6 mm and not more than 12 mm.

Take the second board, apply glue to it and join its spikes with the grooves of the first one, or knock them together using a special block. Then firmly press the boards to the base.
Lay the entire first row on the glue in the same way. The last board will always have to be cut - first draw a saw line on it, and then cut it.
Insert small expansion wedges into the expansion gaps between the parquet and the wall.

After laying the first two rows, check that there are no gaps between the boards, and then again firmly press the planks to the floor.
Follow the same steps until the entire floor is laid out.
When the work is completed, process the seams with cork chips or acrylic sealant. You can also put a metal threshold.

The drying period of the parquet board is one to two days, depending on the class of adhesive. At this time, it is absolutely impossible to allow changes in humidity in the room.

floating mounting method

The second option for laying parquet boards is floating, which involves joining boards without the use of glue, but by means of locking elements. Installation also consists of several stages:

Start laying from the left corner of the room. Take the first board and cut off its grooves with a planer - it will fit against the wall, so there should be no protruding parts. Lay the first board in the corner, leaving a gap of 8-10 mm.
Take the second board and lay it with the lock to the previous one, gently pressing forward and down until the lock and the groove meet.

Advice. To ensure that the boards are well connected to each other, during the laying process, gently tap on them with a rubber mallet.

Do the same for the entire first row. Between last board and the wall should also have a gap of 8-10 mm. After completing the first row, special wedges must be inserted into the gaps.
Start the second row on the side where you completed the first. Lay the remaining rows in the same way until the entire floor surface is covered. Do not forget to leave gaps and insert wedges into them - they can be removed only after installation is completed.

Pay special attention to laying the boards near the threshold - after each plank, check whether the doors open freely. If there are difficulties, just cut the boards to length.

Remember that the installation of a parquet board in a floating way is a good option only for small rooms - if the floor surface is large, then the parquet, fastened with locks and grooves, simply cannot maintain its integrity for a long time.

We install skirting boards and carry out cleaning work

The final stage of laying any parquet board is the installation of the skirting board and cleaning the floor. The plinth must be laid around the entire perimeter. This can be done in two ways:

Mounting on special locks. A very simple, but not entirely practical option, since such locks often fail during intensive use, as a result of which the plinth begins to move away from the wall.
Mounting on self-tapping screws and dowels. A more complicated and time-consuming method, but such skirting boards are as durable as possible.

After completing the installation of the skirting board, the entire floor surface should be cleaned of dirt and dust that have accumulated during the installation process. This can be done with a special brush or vacuum cleaner. Also, if you bought a board without a factory oil-wax coating, the parquet should be treated with appropriate products to give it a spectacular shine and protect it from moisture and other troubles. And if you have already purchased a fully finished parquet, you can limit yourself to cleaning it.

As you can see, it is really possible to perform high-quality and beautiful laying of parquet boards in your own home even without the help of professionals. The main thing is to follow the installation instructions and observe simple tips for finishing work.