Which option for a summer residence is suitable as a cesspool? Do-it-yourself cesspool for a private house How to close a cesspool in the country

Where it is not possible to mount a sewer, the owners of private houses dig a cesspool. This is a recess for collecting waste in the ground, freed from time to time by sewage equipment. The depth of the cesspool for the convenience of pumping should not exceed 3 meters.

The maximum depth of the cesspool is three meters

The design of the drain pit depends on the purpose. It affects the way waste is removed and treated.

Cesspool for country toilet

Pits with a permeable bottom

For example, for a bath, they dig an absorbing hole, the bottom of which is covered with drainage material. The same cesspools are dug for a country toilet.

Small holes with a permeable bottom are also dug for a house in which more than one cube of waste per day is not collected. This may be a cottage for permanent residence, which does not have a shower and bath.

The main advantage of such cesspools is the cost-effectiveness of construction and operation.

Most often they are constructed from two or three concrete rings of a meter or one and a half meter diameter installed on top of each other. The water from this cesspool goes into the ground, so the tank is filled with solid waste for a long time.

Some people replace the rings with old car tires. The building is not very environmentally friendly.

But if you observe the allowable distances, including in relation to the groundwater level, and prevent overflow, the SanPiN norms will not be violated.

Cesspool tire rings

The permeable bottom of the pit with sealed walls does not allow sewage water to soak into the soil above a depth of three meters.

But if only drains from the bath are drained into the cesspool, it may have permeable walls. The liquid seeps into the ground almost from the neck.

Such a well is called a filter well, it is suitable for a house in which waste from the bathroom and toilet is collected in different containers.

For the construction of filter tanks, solid clay bricks are used, laid with a gap, or concrete wall rings with perforation.

Bath pit with permeable brick walls

The depth of the pit can exceed three meters, since there is no solid content in it, and it is not pumped out.

sealed containers

So that untreated sewer waste does not soak into the ground, it is more correct and environmentally safe to build cesspools with a sealed bottom, if this is not for a country house.

An example of a monolithic pit

Such pits are built similarly to permeable ones. But the bottom in them is not covered with rubble, but concreted. A pit under a yard toilet or a house with a built-in latrine is dug in a different shape.

It has two levels of depth connected by a sloping bottom. This is necessary for the convenience of pumping, so that the solid contents are collected in the deeper part of the pit under the neck.

Drawing of a sealed pit for a toilet in the country

The width of the cesspool reaches 2.5-3 meters, so it is not necessary to deepen it. The soil does not absorb runoff.

If the cesspool was dug not under the toilet, but at some distance from it, the pit can be cylindrical or rectangular. With a meter diameter, only 3 m 3 of drains will fit in it. Due to the sealed bottom, it will fill up quickly.

Scheme of the device pit under a residential building

What is overflow and why is it needed

To increase the volume of the drive, it is expanded horizontally and the size of the cesspool is increased.

For example, instead of a meter diameter of the ring, they take 1.5 or 2 meters, build a rectangular container of brick, 2x2 or 2x3 m monolith, or put a factory model with several sections.

Cesspool with two additional tanks

Whether additional containers are needed is determined by calculation. It is necessary to multiply the daily rate of water consumption of one person (according to the norms, this is 0.5 m 3 per adult and 0.25 m 3 per child) by the number of family members. It turns out the required volume of the pit.

Size calculations show that a family of 4 fills an airtight tank in three to four days. Therefore, at least one container with a permeable bottom will still be needed.

In the first, sewage will settle, fecal matter will sink to the bottom, and water will overflow into an adjacent reservoir.

If there is an overflow, a cesspool of 3-4 m3 is enough for 4 people

The volume of the pit is increased or additional containers are attached to it in order to pump out effluent as little as possible.

The separation of water from solid masses sometimes allows you to do without sewage for several years. And even less often, if you put preparations for biological treatment into the sump.

What are the walls of the cesspool built from?

Consider the materials used for autonomous sewage.

Concrete

According to the standard, heavy concrete is used to fill the drain pit with the following characteristics:

density - 2200 kg / m 3;
compressive strength - class B15;
frost resistance - F50 (at least 50 freeze-thaw cycles);
moisture resistance - at least W6.

To give concrete the necessary properties, including resistance to aggressive environments, additives and plasticizers are added to its composition. For primary anti-corrosion protection, the surface is treated with water-repellent mixtures.

Of lightweight concretes, only expanded clay concrete has the required density. Aerated concrete is cellular and is not suitable for structures buried in the ground.

Pit bottom concreting

When using monolithic concrete, formwork from a board or flat slate is installed in the pit. If the pit is airtight, the bottom is first poured and reinforced with steel mesh. Then make the walls and ceiling.

With a size of 2x2 m and with the same depth, the volume of the pit will be 8 m 2. The construction will take approximately 0.5 tons of crushed stone and sand and 600 bricks of one and a half format. Brick is most often used second-hand.

Sewerage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But it is not always possible to connect to a centralized sewer system - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage villages. The way out of the problem is the arrangement of their own facilities for the collection, treatment and disposal of wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How is a cesspool without a bottom

There are two types of cesspools:

sealed;
leaky, without a bottom;

The first are the simplest structures made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewage machine should pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, because some owners are thinking about how to partially dispose of sewage with the help of soil purification.

And the simplest option is leaky cesspools. They are a shallow well, assembled from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself is located there, or a filter pad made of sand, gravel or crushed stone. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil post-treatment. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewage machine 1-2 times a year.

You may be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For a large family without a bottom, they are not an effective and environmentally safe solution - in this case, it is preferable to build from several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly consider what is good and bad design of a leaky cesspool. Its advantages include the following.

The extremely low price of the structure compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
Ease of creation - a pit and a trench are dug under the pipe, the walls of the cesspool and the lid are installed, the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be performed independently.
The speed of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings in a couple of days.
Lower costs compared to a sealed cesspool - you can call a sewage truck not every month, but only 1-2 times a year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious drawbacks.

Problems with the environment - if this is placed near a source of drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live near you are unlikely to enjoy the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage settlements and garden partnerships - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even simpler facilities for collecting sewage.
Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site with an inspection, then it may consider that you have a cesspool with seepage of sewage into the soil as a violation of the norms, with corresponding consequences.
The fragility of work - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt up and stop passing water in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill up with drains faster, so you will have to move it to a new location or replace it with a full-fledged septic tank. Or more often turn to the services of vacuum cleaners.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not the best solution in terms of ecology and compliance with sanitary standards. But a competent choice of a place for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that the current sanitary and building standards do not give a clear answer to the question of the admissibility or, conversely, the inadmissibility of building a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, an unsealed cesspool, if possible, should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between a similar structure and various objects:

from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
to trees and gardens - at least 5 m;
to the road or the border of the site - from 2 to 4 m;
to residential buildings - 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the facilities for collecting sewage from the nearest neighbors are arranged. Also, if the case takes place in the country, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of a visit from the sanitary service to your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-arranging cesspools without a bottom, drainage wells and septic tanks are concrete rings. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and the low price makes these products affordable for any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before starting excavation work, determine how many concrete rings, and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in the table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings made in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Name	Inner diameter, m	External diameter, m	Height, m	Weight, kg	Internal volume, m3
COP10.3	1	1,16	0,29	≈200	≈0,3
COP10.6	1	1,16	0,59	≈400	≈0,62
COP10.9	1	1,16	0,89	≈600	≈0,94
COP15.6	1	1,68	0,59	≈660	≈1,3
COP15.9	1,5	1,68	0,89	≈1000	≈1,97
COP20.6	2	2,2	0,59	≈970	≈2,24
COP20.9	2	2,2	0,89	≈1480	≈3,38

Step 1. Start the construction of a cesspool without a bottom by determining the place where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2 At the selected location, mark and define the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3 Start the actual extraction of the soil. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow, and there is enough time, then earthwork can be done manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil up. The work is greatly facilitated when using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it turns out that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to involve an excavator.

Step 4 Regularly measure the depth of the pit with a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m (preferably more) between sewer drains and groundwater.

Step 5 Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, while they are brought on a truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6 With the help of a crane-manipulator, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! For better fixation of the rings with each other, apply cement mortar to their ends before laying a new product.

Step 7 In the same way, put the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Complete the laying of concrete products with the installation of the upper round slab, in which a hole is cut out for the hatch.

Step 9 In loamy conditions, effective drainage will require a large contact area. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the cesspool. Their total area should reach 10% of the total area of the internal surface of the structure.

Important! Often, a pillow of rubble with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured into the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows at least a little cleaning of the sewage that goes into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and easy job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important for him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much, or the absence of the need to go down to the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filter pad. Instead of the latter, you can use ordinary sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a brick bottom

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a brick structure. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than the construction of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, a fence or a barn, then it makes sense to put them into action and make a cesspool without a bottom completely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. The step-by-step instructions with photos below will help you in this matter.

Step 1. The construction of a cesspool made of bricks, like any other sewer structure, start with earthworks - choose a place and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2 Check the depth and diameter of the pit with a tape measure.

Step 3 Get rid of the earth excavated during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave a part of it for the subsequent backfilling of the cover of the structure.

Step 4 At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5 Proceed to laying the lower part of the walls of the brick cesspool. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then the construction of this structure will be a good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! Silicate bricks absorb water well and at the same time gradually collapse. If you want the cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6 Continue laying and climb higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and the brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Finish laying the walls of the cesspool of bricks, not reaching a little to the surface of the earth.

Step 8 Lead the sewer pipe out of the house into the cesspool.

Step 9 Reinforce the pit with a metal bracket installed as shown in the image below. Instead, it is allowed to use a wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to collapse and rot.

Step 10 Fold the same flat ring of brick on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Seal the cesspool on top with a concrete slab, prefabricated or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage disposal. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at the factory or.

Or the owner of a country house thinks about the need for a cesspool in the adjoining area. Expensive - you say? Not at all, and today you will see it. The cesspool installation option proposed below is extremely easy to perform and does not require you to have special construction skills or costs.

Interested? Still would! And now let's take a closer look at what you can make and install a cesspool in your country house from.
We bring to your attention a cesspool of tires.

What are its advantages?
The main thing is, of course, its low cost. It is not required to buy expensive building materials, whether it be brick or concrete rings. It is enough just to find a couple of dozen tires. And even if you don’t have that many tires, don’t be discouraged, because you can always buy them for a more than affordable price or even get them as a gift. Drive through several auto repair shops in your city and make sure these words are right. Another plus, of course, is that such a cesspool is very easy to install, which is very often a decisive argument in favor of one or another type of building materials.

However, this type of cesspool has several disadvantages.
The most important of them is a short service life. As a rule, the service life of such pits is ten to fifteen years, after which the pit deforms and collapses. Another disadvantage is the complexity of its dismantling and repair.

So, having weighed all the pros and cons, you have decided that there should be a cesspool of tires! Where to start?
First, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the general schematic structure of the pit and with the features of its installation.

After that, you should decide on the location on the site, the size and depth of your future pit. Think about how often you will visit your dacha - once every two or three weeks on weekends or coming there every other day. As a rule, ten to fifteen tires will be enough to create a hole with optimal dimensions.

The next step is to dig the hole. To do this, measure the diameter of the tire you have and measure this diameter on the ground. It should be remembered that the pit should be dug a little larger in diameter than the diameter of the tires, so that in the future there will be no difficulties with their installation in the pit.

After digging a hole of the required size and volume, a drainage well should be made in it. To do this, it is necessary to drill a hole in the center of the pit with a drill and insert a drainage pipe with holes on the sides into the resulting hole. This is necessary so that the sewage does not stagnate in your pit, and passes through the waterproof layers of the earth. Important: the top of the drainage pipe and the side holes on its surface should be protected with a special mesh so that they are not clogged with large particles of debris and drains.

We cover the bottom of the cesspool with rubble, creating a kind of foundation with a thickness of about ten centimeters. After that, on the resulting “pillow” of rubble, we begin to lay out tires. Please note that it is recommended to cut off the inner rim of each tire to allow water and debris to flow freely. Also, this step will prevent stagnation of water inside the tire and ensure a longer operation of the cesspool.

After mounting the tires, we install an inlet pipe for drains and water. To do this, with an electric jigsaw on the side surface of one of the upper tires, we cut a hole corresponding to the diameter of the inlet pipe, after which we insert the pipe into the resulting hole and fix it. Remember that to facilitate the flow of water through the pipe, it should be placed with a slight slope.

An important feature: tires must be laid in such a way that the last of them is above ground level. We cover the space between the tires and the walls of the dug hole with earth, not forgetting to seal the joints between the tires with sealant before that. To ventilate our cesspool, we install a ventilation pipe at the top of the pit, the height of which is about sixty to seventy centimeters above the ground.
Close the pit with a lid or hatch. That's all - our cesspool is ready.

Such a cesspool, built with your own hands, is very unpretentious in operation, will serve you for several decades, and add a lot of comfort to your life in the country.

The decision to make a cesspool yourself remains an ideal choice for a situation with the inability to connect to the central sewer. Such a structure solves the problem of ensuring the disposal of waste and sewage for a private house. The choice of this option is due to simple installation, easy maintenance and small financial investments necessary for construction and further operation.

The very device of this simplest and most ancient sewer system is a recess dug and equipped with walls in the ground, designed to collect and partially process wastewater. Partially filtered liquid enters the soil below, and the accumulated residue must be periodically removed so as not to overload the container.

A light wooden structure is installed above the recess. After filling the pit, the upper part is removed, and the remaining space is covered with earth. The accumulated elements go through the process of decay and turn into compost. Fruit trees planted here will thrive in a fertilized area. And you can use the new building.

But this method is clearly insufficient for the needs of a large building in which many people constantly live. In this case, for large volumes of waste, modern structures with walls made of various materials are needed. Most often for these purposes is used:

brick is a great masonry option even for beginners;
concrete rings, the delivery and laying of which requires special equipment;
cost-effective way of arranging from tires;
metal barrels that prevent shedding of side surfaces;
the use of ready-made plastic barrels has a long service life - more than 40 years.

Mention should be made of a convenient and modern option - the use of septic tanks. These products are made in multi- and single-chamber modifications. The most complete and deep cleaning of waste occurs in models equipped with several chambers. Purified water is suitable for watering vegetable gardens.

The cesspool device involves the installation of two types - sealed and filtering. In the first case, there is an accumulation of effluents until the time of their pumping. The second one provides for the presence of holes in the walls for partial penetration of waste into the ground. To carry out filtration around the tank, it will be necessary to lay a gravel-sand layer with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

According to the requirements of sanitary safety, there must be at least 1 m of soil from the bottom of the infiltrating type structure to the groundwater table.

The purpose of such a recess is drains from storm sewers and drainage.

With a large amount of household waste, there is always a risk of soil contamination, which can only be prevented by arranging a sealed system.

Principles of design and preparation of sewage pits

A carefully designed project and competent planning will help to avoid problems during the construction process in terms of existing norms and rules. First of all, attention should be paid to the most important points:

Safe location in terms of sanitary requirements.
The choice of the type of system depending on the specifics of the site and housing construction.
Decide on the dimensions of the recess.
Plan the production technology in advance.
Prepare appropriate materials.

Each of the items in the above list has its own nuances, the implementation of which is very important for safe and reliable operation.

The place where the structure will be located must necessarily be remote from fences, residential buildings, wells. From a drinking water tank, for example, the distance is maintained at least 25 meters, and from the house - starting from 5 meters.
With existing relief irregularities placement at the bottom of the site should be avoided. Flooding during periods of heavy rains and snowmelt threatens to contaminate the soil and groundwater. Construction technology is selected from the characteristics of the soil in the surrounding area.
Dimensions are primarily calculated taking into account the number of residents. For one person, a daily volume of 0.5-2.0 cubic meters is planned. m of drains. The need to pay for each call of equipment, with the help of which the cesspool is pumped out after it is filled, requires one more rule to be followed - to make the volume of the structure a multiple of the capacity of the sewage machine.
The task of diverting drains is solved using the technology of an eternal cesspool. The design feature of this method is the construction of two containers, interconnected by a special branch pipe under a certain slope. After filling the first tank, the liquid flows into the second. This technique allows you to significantly increase the area of \u200b\u200bsoil for water drainage, and only large fractions and feces will accumulate in the main pit.
A do-it-yourself cesspool of a hermetic design is a recess with a concreted bottom. The main advantage of such a device is the complete isolation of sewage and the absence of any odors on the site and in the house itself. But relative disadvantage is fast filling and frequent emptying, especially in the presence of washing machines and dishwashers, intensive use of the bathroom and shower.

A careless approach to planning and performing installation work threatens with the following consequences:

unpleasant "aroma" inside the building and on the site;
freezing of water residues inside sewers;
penetration of harmful substances into the soil.

Careful execution will create a favorable and comfortable environment for living and recreation. You only need to clean the cesspools on time and periodically monitor the condition of the system.

Let us consider in more detail the features of the construction of different types of such a sewer system.

Arrangement of a brick cesspool

as far as possible from any buildings;
take into account the direction of groundwater flow;
provide access for the sewer.

Sizes are always an individual choice. There is no doubt that a deeper device will require less frequent cleaning, but one should never forget the level of groundwater. Closer than 30 cm to them, you can not place the bottom.

How to make a cesspool if the water is close to its location?

In this case, there is simply no alternative to the sealed type of device. In the case of a shallow depth, you can increase the length dimensions or use a multi-tank design. But it is not recommended to dig more than 3 meters even in dry ground.

The standard option for a residential building with 4-5 people living in it is a depth and diameter of 3 meters.

Buy only red ceramic bricks. Silicate and cinder blocks will get wet pretty quickly and will be unusable. The best material is burnt brick, rejected for construction because of its irregular shape.

The construction process consists of several main stages:

Digging a pit is the most time-consuming procedure. With manual work, two people can dig a 1.5x3 m hole in sandy soil within a couple of days. But clay soil will cause a lot of difficulties and will require the use of hired workers or an excavator. The shape for the pit is usually chosen in the form of a glass with a slight expansion towards the top, giving additional reliability.
The foundation must begin with the process of backfilling the soil with gravel and sand. This layer is poured with concrete with preliminary laying of reinforcement. Usually the thickness of this layer is 15-20 cm and depends on the diameter of the pit.
Wall laying is done in half a brick with a size, and in brick - with a large diameter. The proportion of cement and sand in the mortar is usually 1:3 and 1:4. After completion of this stage, bituminous mastic is applied to the walls.
A ready-made pancake with a hatch hole of the appropriate size is used, as well as a self-poured lid.
At the end, the overlap is covered with a layer of earth with the location of the manhole cover slightly above ground level.

Video of arranging a cesspool made of bricks:

Over time, any structure becomes clogged. Various methods are used for cleaning. Biologics for latrines remain one of the best methods to ensure accelerated degradation of waste and increase the life of such sewer systems.

How to make a concrete cesspool

The use of such elements will be an ideal option for the safety of soil and plants located near the place where wastewater is stored.

In the usual version, 2-3 concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 m and a meter height will be required. If a family of 3-4 people lives in the house, then to pump out the total volume of the structure of 4.5 cubic meters. m will have to call a special vehicle on average once a quarter.

How to make a cesspool in a private house from concrete rings - the sequence of installation work:

under the required slope below the freezing point of the soil, drain pipes leaving the building are laid and insulated;
a pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the rings by 80-90 cm. A pillow of 30 cm of sand, fragments of brick or gravel is poured into the bottom of the recess;
a crane or winch will be needed to lower the concrete elements;
first place the ring with the bottom, using the building level to avoid distortions vertically and horizontally;
a waterproofing layer of bituminous mastic is applied to the inner surface and joints;
free space is filled up and carefully compacted;
a reinforced concrete slab is laid on the last ring and a metal or polymer cover is attached.

There is a high probability of accumulation of methane and sulfuric gas released during decay in the tank. For their output, a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is installed.

How to make a concrete cesspool video:

Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

After selecting the area for the location of the drain tank and having all the calculations, earthworks can begin. With the help of earth-moving equipment or manually, a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. Usually, an excavator is involved for such events, but the specifics of the site do not always allow special equipment to drive to the required place.

In such a situation, you can apply the old tried and tested method - install one ring in place and start picking up soil from under the walls with a shovel. It is important to control the level of the product. After leveling the upper cut of the element with the level of the soil, another ring is set and the sampling of the earth continues in the same way.

To make a cesspool yourself, you will need to prepare materials for the walls, a formwork board and prepare the following components:

sand and cement the desired brand for mixing the solution;
crushed stone and rubble for the manufacture of a filtration layer;
rebar or rod useful for arranging the cover;
corner or suitable hatch metal with frame;
waterproofing materials;
suitable container and buckets for mortar;
mason's tools;
plumb line, building cord and level;
set of bayonet and shovel.

When working on a large scale, you can rent or ask neighbors for a concrete mixer.

Decoration of installation sites for cesspools

It will not be difficult to disguise the sewer from prying eyes because of the layer of earth with which it is covered. After that, there are many ways to decorate - sowing a lawn, laying out flower beds, planting shrubs. Sewer hatches are ennobled with stone and wooden elements. The owner of the site can show all his imagination and creative ingenuity in this process.

The photos below show examples of beautiful decor.

An excellent example of the manufacture of a luxurious lid, which is equipped with a septic tank for cesspools, can be viewed on the video:

How much does it cost to make a cesspool on the site

When determining the costs for the construction of a sewer collector, it should be assumed that the arrangement of a small capacity is not economically feasible. It is best to start calculating the total cost for devices from 3000 liters. Several major factors affect your financial investment. To make a cesspool whose price matches your capabilities, you should analyze the following parameters:

the cost of materials for the selected type of device;
prices for the services of specialists involved in the construction.

For example, let's take a cesspool structure of two rings of one and a half meters in diameter. A neck is supplied with these elements, the presence of which will completely hide the main part below ground level.

If you order a turnkey installation, then the calculation includes:

A complete set of materials, including concrete preparation components, waterproofing and a manhole.
Delivery depending on the distance to the installation site.
Digging followed by backfilling of the pit.
Mounting measures for the installation of rings.
Concreting the bottom of the well.

At the moment, all these stages will cost the customer 30,900 rubles.

When performing such work on their own, professional builders recommend paying attention to the following points:

to fill a three-cube tank, about one and a half cubic meters of soil will be required. You can leave it, and take out the rest immediately after arranging the pit;
having concreted the bottom, let the mixture stand for 10-12 days to achieve optimal strength;
brickwork can not be done very smoothly. It is hidden from view and performs the main function - to restrain the soil from shedding;
for formwork, it is best to take a profiled sheet or board;
bayoneting the mixture used to fill the ceiling contributes to a good pouring of the reinforcing cage;
carefully tamp and level the soil around the entire perimeter and on top of the well.

An extensive choice of designs allows you to build a device according to financial capabilities and needs. One of the main conditions is the observance of sanitary standards in terms of protection against environmental pollution.

For residents of the private sector who are not connected to the sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic wastewater is always relevant.

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose the appropriate option:

a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath;
sealed cesspool - for a large number of drains;
septic tank - for partial treatment and draining of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drain cesspool?

If the daily amount of discharged water does not exceed one cubic meter, a drain pit can be used. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

Through such a filtration cushion, water will slowly seep into the ground, being cleansed along the way.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold, which can be immediately buried.

Or you can make it yourself by concrete pit or by installing concrete rings on a concrete base.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

A septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of drain exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is unprofitable to order a monthly pumping out of the pit, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than the usual latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;

A large area is not required to organize a filtration field;

You can organize one septic tank for two houses;

Depending on the type of effluent, pumping is required every few years;

A full cleaning can be carried out once every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with the device of a septic tank alone;

- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;

- additional equipment - to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or a drill with a mixer.

Site selection

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But to the house it can be placed almost close - 3 m from the foundation with a one-story building, and 5 m - with a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

Be sure to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood water - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it can not be buried completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step by step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people, the main chamber will be at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers must be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drains in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug. The upper fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and arrange the beds.

An improved do-it-yourself cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber becomes silted, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and the final cleaning of the drain water takes place in the second chamber.

Cesspool with their own hands

Cesspool with their own hands. Communications. For residents of the private sector who are not connected to the sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic wastewater is always relevant. Depending on the amount of water drained, you can choose the appropriate option: a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath; sealed cesspool - for a large one.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Residents of multi-apartment buildings do not have to worry about the removal and disposal of biowaste, everything is done by housing and communal services for them. Those who live in a private house need to resolve such problems themselves. One solution is to build a cesspool. It does not require large installation costs, it perfectly performs the function of sanitary cleaning. You just need to know how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Choosing the location of the cesspool

There is a system of rules and regulations that controls the construction of a cesspool for a private house. Sanitary standards determine the location of the cesspool on the site, the distance from it to various outbuildings. When planning pits for biowaste, the following rules must be taken into account:

The cesspool should be located at a distance of at least a dozen meters from the living quarters;
From the cesspool to the fence should be more than a meter;
When installing a bottomless pit, it is necessary to take into account the location of the wells. The nearest well should be at a distance of at least 30 meters.

The simplest cheap options

The predecessor of the cesspool was an ordinary pit dug in the soil, in which the walls were smeared with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, cisterns, and other old containers in the ground. Today, such tanks for collecting and partial waste treatment are installed only when the daily volume is not more than one cubic meter.

If the owner of a private house does not want to spend money on arranging a cesspool, he can use old car tires. It is only necessary to put them in a dug hollow, connecting them with bolts. Then the hollow is sprinkled with earth, a concrete slab is placed on top with a hole for the ventilation pipe, as well as a hatch for pumping out.

Popular types of structures

According to the characteristic differences in the design of the pit for biowaste, they are divided into absorbing and sealed. Septic tanks are used to collect, store and treat waste. These are structures with a more complex design.

Absorption tanks (bottomless)

A distinctive feature is that there is no bottom, because of this, the liquid, after being cleaned with a sand, gravel and brick filter, is sent to the soil. Absorbing capacity is the most inexpensive and easy to arrange. Due to the partial infiltration of treated effluents into the soil, there is much less need to call a sewage service.

The absorbing type is selected if there is no need to divert a lot of wastewater. Large volumes of soil will not be able to accept and process. Also, such a pit cannot be called an environmentally friendly option, because the waste, getting into the soil, will pollute it.

sealed containers

They are closed waterproof concrete / brick / gas silicate tanks. They must be emptied regularly after filling. If you know how to properly make an airtight type cesspool, you will be provided with an absolute absence of odors characteristic of the toilet, but sometimes you will have to call the vacuum cleaners. Remember that the use of cinder blocks for the construction of a cesspool is unacceptable (they quickly collapse when in contact with water).

The simplest solution for arranging a cesspool is the installation of a plastic tank purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, but it will be necessary to fill the bottom of the basin with a special cement screed and reinforce the walls with reinforcement.

Simple homemade cleaning structures

These are designs that not only perform deep cleansing, but also turn wastewater into fertilizer useful for the garden. Often they are a two- or three-chamber system. In the 1st chamber, collection and partial cleaning are carried out, in the 2nd and 3rd, complete waste processing takes place.

You can use old car tires. To install such a cesspool, you do not need a solid concrete foundation, a dense sand cushion with gravel thirty-five centimeters thick, as well as one decimeter screed is enough.

To increase the capacity of the reservoir, the sides of the tires must be cut;
A vertical concrete pipe with a diameter of about a couple of times smaller than that of tires is placed in a well made of tires. The upper cut of the pipe is a decimeter lower than the well constructed from tires;
The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete to form a solid cylinder.

From above it will be necessary to make holes for infiltration and installation of pipes that will provide overflow. The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete tank. The areas where sewer pipes enter vertical concrete must be sealed.

How to build an absorption pit from concrete rings

It is necessary to dig a mine-type hollow, its diameter should be approximately eighty centimeters larger than the diameter of the rings. You will need three rings;
A concrete screed is made around the perimeter. This is the future basis for the rings;
In the lower ring, make holes every decimeter so that the purified liquid can leave the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is five centimeters;
The depth of the structure underground should not be more than three meters, otherwise it will become difficult to pull the sediment out of the cesspool;
About a meter, the finished pit is filled with sand, brick, gravel and gravel mixed with soil;
The outer basin is filled with the same mixture. Before backfilling, the cesspool is waterproofed, which will protect the structure from groundwater;
At the end, a plate with a pair of holes is placed. One is for the hatch, the second for ventilation;
To increase the quality of purification, it is recommended to place the well-filterer a little higher than the purification tank.

Installation of a sealed structure

The method of construction is similar, but it is not necessary to make infiltration holes, it is necessary to completely concrete the bottom. Reinforcement of the lower platform made of concrete is recommended. So that the reinforcement does not get stuck in concrete, it must be slightly raised and fixed on pegs.

Walls should be sealed. Bitumen is considered an inexpensive internal insulator, clay is considered an external one. If the walls of the cesspool consist of brickwork, they can be covered with plaster.

Brick laying takes much longer than concrete rings.. At the bottom, a concrete screed is made, bricks are laid in a circle / square. Before proceeding with laying, you need to wait a week after creating a concrete platform.

The sewerage pipeline must be slightly tilted in order to ensure the spontaneous departure of wastewater.

Toilet bin

Those who want to build a toilet also need to know how to properly make a cesspool. Most often, a small hole is dug, to which you can freely drive up for devastation. The cesspool is laid out with bricks or poured with concrete.

The depth can be arbitrary, it all depends on the soil of the litter. It is recommended to dig a cesspool to a layer of sand that will absorb waste. The bottom of the pit is covered with a sand-gravel mixture, gravel.

Other dimensions are set locally. Ventilation is recommended. A pipe that rises about six decimeters above the roof of the latrine will do.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Details on how in a private house you can make a cesspool with your own hands. How to choose a place. The best options. Arrangement technology.

Cesspool in a private house - scheme, materials, device

A cesspool in a private house, the scheme of which is chosen in accordance with existing requirements and rules, is able to collect domestic sewage without the risk of soil contamination. Despite the fact that the construction of a pit is simpler than, for example, building a septic tank, there are certain nuances that directly affect the efficiency of such a sewer system and, accordingly, the comfort of living.

Pros and cons of using

The advantages of cesspools are determined the simplicity of their design. You can build such a structure quite quickly. In addition, its cost will be low - they often use the most affordable materials, including used ones.

The minus of the cesspool is, first of all, the need to pump out sewage. Depending on the circumstances (the volume of the pit, the number of people, the availability of water-consuming household appliances), the frequency may vary, but the services of a sewage truck will always be one of your expenses.

Cesspool pumping with sewage equipment

Important: The maximum depth of the cesspool should not be more than 3 meters, otherwise there may be problems with its pumping.

Another significant drawback that you need to be aware of before you make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands is sanitary "unreliability", if we are talking about its leaky version. It is necessary to carefully consider the location of the cesspool and its design, calculate the required volume so that the structure does not poison the existence of the inhabitants of the house with unpleasant odors and, even worse, does not cause harmful substances to enter the soil of the garden or the occurrence of infectious diseases.

Types of cesspools

The arrangement of cesspools in a private house largely depends on how the suburban building is used. For a small amount of drains and periodic residence, you can choose a pit without a bottom, but if a family of several people constantly lives in the house, it is better to prefer a sealed drive. Each of the options deserves more detailed consideration.

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool without a bottom is a kind of "well", the walls of which prevent runoff from entering the upper layers of the soil, and instead of the bottom, a kind of filter made of crushed stone or gravel is arranged. Passing through it, the effluents are partially filtered, after which they enter the soil and, passing through it, are cleaned better. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to constantly call for vacuum trucks. It will not be possible to do without cleaning at all, but its frequency can be significantly reduced.

In the photo, a diagram of a cesspool in a private house without a bottom

expedient waste separation and arrangement of separate pit latrines. In this case, the toilet pit will fill up more slowly (and, accordingly, less likely to require the call of special equipment), and drains from the shower, bathroom, kitchen sink with a minimum amount of insoluble inclusions will almost completely go through the filter into the soil.

One of the options for separating wastewater into different tanks

Use of bioactivators contributes to the decomposition of impurities in wastewater, improving the quality of cleaning and slower filling. Only sludge remains in the tank, and purified water is removed through a filter. Bacteria found in the soil act in a similar way, however, if the total volume of effluents exceeds 1 cubic meter, they will not be enough to process such an amount of liquid.

It is important to know that such a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private house has "contraindications".

The close location of groundwater excludes the possibility of installing a model without a bottom, since when their level rises during a flood or during heavy rain, the pit can spontaneously fill. In addition, under such conditions, the quality of filtration is noticeably reduced - runoff does not pass through the soil, being cleaned, but immediately enters the groundwater.
Clay soil has too low water permeability to ensure timely removal of the contents of the cesspool.
The volume of such a cesspool should not be more than 1 cubic meter.

Sealed cesspool

Sealed structures with a bottom are only accumulators. Effluent is to be pumped out using a sewage machine. Despite the need to pay for the services of special equipment, this option has its advantages:

sanitary safety and exclusion of the possibility of soil contamination and the spread of pathogenic bacteria,
Can be used on all types of soil.

For sealed structures of small volume, ready-made waterproof containers are often used. A large cesspool in a private house, the scheme of which involves the collection of effluents from a large number of points, is most often built from one or another material that is suitable for its characteristics.

Cesspool Materials

Having considered the features of the materials often used for the construction of such structures and comparing them with the conditions of a particular object, it is possible to decide which cesspool in a private house will be the most efficient and economical.

Finished goods

The use of finished products can significantly reduce the duration of construction work, and in some cases, their labor intensity.

Tires cars are used as blocks - they are installed one on top of the other, fixing with clamps, waterproof glue and sealing the joints. In most cases, tire cesspools do not have a bottom. The advantages of the option are low cost, easy and fast installation.

A cesspool made of tires is one of the cheapest options for organizing sewage

concrete rings- Another option for block construction of cesspools. They weigh a lot, so lifting equipment will be required to install them in the pit. At the same time, construction will not take much time, and the resulting structure will be strong and durable. Concrete rings can be used for the construction of both hermetic storage tanks and filter structures without a bottom. In the first case, the rings are installed on a concrete foundation. It is recommended to seal joints and treat the inner and outer surfaces of concrete products with waterproofing compounds (one of the most affordable options is ordinary bitumen, although special mastics can be purchased if desired) regardless of the type of product.

Concrete rings for sewers

Iron or plastic barrels require a minimum of effort during installation, but their significant drawback is their small volume. As a drive, they are only suitable for summer cottages, and to equip a cesspool with a filter, the bottom will need to be removed. Iron products require a waterproofing coating on the outside and inside to protect against corrosion.

Plastic barrel as a sewer tank

Plastic storage models fixing to the foundation is required to prevent them from floating up during a flood. In addition, at the stage of backfilling the mounted structure, it is recommended to fill the container with water to prevent its deformation due to squeezing with soil.

Plastic storage tank

Installation of plastic eurocubes

Construction Materials

The use of building materials slightly increases the construction time. At the same time, a significant advantage is that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house in this case can be arranged in any configuration, taking into account sanitary requirements and the layout of the site. It can be round or rectangular, including narrow and long, if it is more convenient to place such an option on the territory.

Concrete poured structures are made using formwork by gradually increasing the height of the wall.
Brickwork can be done in a circle, but more often, for reasons of convenience, brick pits are made rectangular.

Both options can be used for the construction of storage or filter structures and in most cases require the application of a double-sided waterproofing layer.

In certain situations, additional holes are made in the walls of the pit for better drainage.

Rules for choosing a place and volume

The volume of the cesspool should, according to sanitary standards, be no less than a three-day water consumption rate. The estimated number is considered to be the value of 200 liters per day per person, however, it is important to know that this figure is relevant for permanent residence. With a periodic visit to the dacha, it is less, and water is not consumed daily.

In a house with permanent residence for a family of 3, a pit of at least 1 cube is needed. Sometimes it is more convenient to use two small holes than one large hole. The scheme of a cesspool in a private house should take into account the necessary distances from significant objects - at least 30 m from the place where drinking water is taken, at least 3 m from garden and garden plants and 5 m from the road. At the same time, storage models should be positioned so that the sewage truck can easily drive up to it.

The layout of the cesspool

Cesspool cleaning

You should be aware that the operation of vacuum trucks does not guarantee complete cleaning of the tank. It is possible to pump out only liquid, while sediment will remain and accumulate at the bottom. Speaking about how to clean a cesspool in a private house, it should be noted that cleaning can be optimized by using special preparations.

Bioactive complexes, which are colonies of bacteria, work effectively, eliminate odor and are environmentally friendly. However, at temperatures below +4 ° C, microorganisms die, so it is impossible to use such products in winter.
Among chemicals, nitrate oxidizing agents are preferred, which are non-toxic and do not pose a danger to humans, domestic animals and plants. They are usually used in the cold season.

Important: To eliminate odors from the pit, which will be if special preparations are not used, ventilation of the cesspool in a private house is required. For its device, plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 60 cm, which are installed in the upper part of the pit, are suitable.

Proper arrangement of a cesspool in a private house will allow you to safely dispose of wastewater with minimal effort and without significant costs. In this case, the container will not be a source of unpleasant odor.

Cesspool in a private house: scheme, do-it-yourself device, video

Cesspool in a private house, scheme, device with filtering and storage tanks. Materials, features of various designs. Choice of location and volume, cleaning.

Do-it-yourself cesspool - an overview and comparison of design options

For the townspeople, the problems of removal and disposal of domestic wastewater are solved by public utilities, but the adherents of a spacious country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order an installation on the site of a volumetric septic tank or a local treatment station, then the summer resident may well build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. She will perfectly cope with the important sanitary function, and will not require the allocation of too much funds for the arrangement.

The most simple and budget options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple pit dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers in the ground. Now, such "reservoirs" for collecting and partial filtration of wastewater are satisfied only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

An elementary cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site for a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes it is completely forbidden by the sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanying the bans with the imposition of administrative penalties.

An elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a closet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really does not want to spend money on a construction device, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be usefully used. It will be necessary just to lay the tires in the excavated pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is arranged outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire laid on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After the pit around the makeshift treatment plant, it is covered with soil, a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a pumping hatch is laid on top.

The owner of the Nth amount of worn tires can build an excellent reservoir for collecting wastewater from them.

Common types of structures

According to the characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorbing structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of effluents inside and with biological and chemical cleaning methods.

It is unacceptable to violate the sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of the cesspool

Containers without a bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the "folk" cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the effluents, after being cleaned by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorbing option is considered the most economical, in addition, the construction of a pit of this type may well be carried out by a performer who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. More savings: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, it is much less necessary to call vacuum trucks.

Design scheme of a cesspool without a bottom - drains are filtered through crushed stone

The absorbing variety of pits is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. A large volume of land will not be able to process and receive. In addition, the ongoing cleaning cannot be classified as one hundred percent effective procedures, which means that effluents from an absorbing pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste tanks

In their name there is a direct clue that speaks of the main design feature. In fact, these are closed containers made of impermeable concrete, brickwork, plastic, gas silicate blocks that need constant emptying after filling. Hermetic structures will ensure the complete absence of odors inherent in drains, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not applicable for the construction of a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container for collecting wastewater, bring a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call vacuum trucks to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank is to install a plastic container purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very strong argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close groundwater level. No harm will be done to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with waste masses, there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level, if the level has exceeded the limit, the tank should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are already more complex structures that perform not only deep cleaning, but also process the waste mass into fertilizer valuable for gardeners and gardeners. Most often they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical cleaning takes place, and in the subsequent chambers, specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for household and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the site. But in order to make a septic tank with overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The principle of operation of a three-chamber septic tank is a multi-stage purification of waste masses: in the first tank, the collected effluent is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers, finer purification is performed

If you don’t feel sorry for the efforts, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of "bald", but not worn to holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. For the installation of a septic tank from tires, a powerful concrete foundation is not needed, a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a capacity of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed is sufficient.

To increase the volume of the reservoir created, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made up of tires, its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same tire size. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of rubber.
The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete so that a monolithic concrete cylinder is obtained.

At the top, you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Pit design with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Consider the stages of installation of several design options.

absorbent

Owners of small country estates, who decide to make an elementary sewer with their own hands, most often choose this option. It attracts the simplest design and the ability not to use the services of vacuum trucks too often. The walls can be laid out of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by installing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but a crane is required to install them

It is necessary to dig a mine-type pit, the diameter of which will be approximately 80 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. Rings will need 3 pieces.
Along the perimeter, leaving the central part free, it is necessary to make a concrete screed, it will serve as a support base for the rings.
In the lower ring, holes must be drilled every 10 cm so that the purified water can penetrate beyond the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is 5 cm.

Important. The depth of the underground structure should not exceed the limit of 3 m, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the dense silt sediment that has settled at the bottom of the pit.

Approximately one meter constructed "well" should be filled with sand, gravel, broken bricks, crushed stone mixed with soil.

Approximately a meter of the lower part of the absorbing sewer structure must be covered with a "folk" filter composition: sand, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick, as in the figure

Advice. In order to improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to supplement the filtering well with a sealed cleaning storage tank with overflow located just above.

Schematic design of a home-made septic tank: from a sealed cleaning tank, effluents are poured into an absorbing cesspool, from there purified water enters the filtration field

Sealed

The principle of construction is similar, only it is not necessary to form holes for the infiltration of treated effluents and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. So that the reinforcement does not “drown” in concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and fixed on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; on the outside, a home-made sewer object can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, laid out with bricks or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than the installation of concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid both in a circle and by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “ripen” before laying, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the laying period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of a sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the level of freezing recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of waste masses

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything easier and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the expectation of an average consumer. That is, it is not difficult to find the necessary kit.

The first thing is digging a pit according to the standard scheme for all pits.
With his own hands, the owner will first need to make a pillow at the bottom of the mine from a mixture of concrete and gravel. It should get stronger for a week, during which a kind of foundation needs to be slightly “irrigated” with water.
Then they order the delivery of the kit by car with a manipulator for the production of a consistent installation of the bottom, rings, cover.

A ready-made set of rings and floors made of concrete for the rapid construction of a cesspool

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of construction that meets the needs. Which costs are more important, what is the best way to save money, choose the owner and contractor himself, and knowing the design differences will help you make the right decision.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands - design options and installation steps

Types and arrangement of cesspools. Do-it-yourself installation and arrangement.