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How to feed honeysuckle in the spring so that it gives a good harvest. Honeysuckle Care Spring Crop Basics

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Berries of the Blue Spindle edible honeysuckle variety begin to ripen in mid-June, a week earlier than strawberries. The weight of the berry is about a gram. The variety is self-fertile, pollinated by any, at the same time flowering, bush. The berries do not ripen at the same time, allowing you to feast on the bush for a long period.

Edible honeysuckle has more than 200 varieties. They are subdivided according to different indicators:

Green cuttings begin at the end of June, when growth has already ended and lignification has not occurred. The tops of the branches are harvested with three pairs of leaves. The upper pair of leaves is left, and the cuttings are planted obliquely in a nursery with a wet layer of sand and peat in a ratio of 2: 1, 20 cm of layer height. Obliquely deepened cuttings should take root after 2 weeks. They are planted in a permanent place only the next year in the fall.

Seeds;

In the season when there are so few vitamins, blue droplets begin to appear on a beautiful bush with pale delicate greens, which melt in the mouth. The organism, yearning for natural berries, almost does not notice the slight bitterness of the healing fruits. The well-known vital vitamin C is contained in the berry as much as in the lemon. Only lingonberries have more potassium in honeysuckle, and in terms of other elements and vitamins, it surpasses all known berries grown in the gardens of Russia. And the fruits contain all the vitamins and minerals necessary for a person in an optimal combination for assimilation.

Medium late ripening variety. The bush is dense, compact, small in size - up to 1.1 m. The berries are round-oval, blue-blue, with a waxy bloom, the surface of the berry is slightly ribbed. The mass of the berry is small, the taste is dessert, sweet and sour with a weak aroma. Productivity - up to 1.5 kg per bush, the variety is resistant to shedding.

The variety is early maturing. The bush is dense, compact, up to 1.2 m high. The berries are cylindrical, with a rounded base and a pointed top. The color is dark blue, the waxy bloom is strong, the surface of the fruit is slightly ribbed, the flesh is tender. The taste is sour with a pronounced aroma. Berry weight - up to 1 g. Productivity per bush - up to 1.5 kg. In the heat, the berries can crumble.

Due to the fact that the southern region from the very beginning of the growing season falls under drought and high temperatures, there are practically no fungal diseases. But there are more than one species of pests. These are aphids, honeysuckle toe-wing (caterpillar eats seeds and unripe pulp), polyphagous pests settle on honeysuckle by the beginning of ripening: rose leafworm, moth, gooseberry sawfly. They eat leaves and gnaw out points of growth, and aphids suck juice from young leaves and shoots. Therefore, a prerequisite for growing honeysuckle is pest control. Before the onset of ripening, spraying with Fufanon Nova (Aliot) preparations is carried out twice at the rate of 10 ml per 10 liters of water. For better adhesion of the preparations, 40 g of insecticidal green soap should be added to the tank mixture. But in the future, due to the fact that this is an early ripening culture, it is not recommended to use chemical preparations. For these purposes, biological preparations with a short waiting period of 5 days are used against pests (Lepidocid 20-30 ml or Bitoxibacillin 60-80 g). Spraying is carried out in dry weather, directing a stream of the drug to the underside of the leaves.

Before propagating honeysuckle, you need to prepare a substrate consisting of a mixture of peat and sand in a 1: 1 ratio. Growing edible honeysuckle at the initial stage requires increased attention - watering or spraying is carried out often, at least 3-5 times a day. Root formation in cuttings begins 10-14 days after planting. The survival rate of cuttings is 80-100%. The cuttings are grown without transplanting, at the place of rooting, within one year. The seedlings yield is 55-60% of the number of planted green cuttings.

How to propagate a honeysuckle plant

Light yellow flowers in the axils of 2-4 pairs of lower leaves on the shoot are collected in inflorescences of two flowers in one ovary. Honeysuckle is self-fertile. It is a cross-pollinated plant. Pollinators are bumblebees, but there can also be bees. Berry setting with free pollination ranges from 30-100%.

Its Latin name - Lonicera - edible honeysuckle owes to the German medieval physician and botanist Adam Lonitzer, the author of the popular "Book of Herbs". Although originally Swedish naturalist Karl Linnaeus, who first qualified the plant honeysuckle, wanted to call it "honeysuckle". This was the name of the most common edible honeysuckle variety, widely grown in European gardens of the 16th century.

Honeysuckle Blue spindle has a weak attachment of the stalk and crumbles, therefore, during fruiting, it is better to put a non-woven material under the bush, which allows the plant to breathe, but is an excellent bedding for fallen berries. The berries are sweet, with a subtle bitterness in the aftertaste. The body accepts the first harvest of summer with gratitude.

By the timing of ripening;

Conditions for growing honeysuckle from seeds

Cutting with lignified material begins in winter. Long cuttings harvested at the beginning of winter are stored in the snow or in the basement. They are planted in the ridge only in May, at an angle, leaving the upper bud above the ground. Cuttings are rooted for 2-3 years, then they are transferred to a permanent place.

How to feed honeysuckle in spring

Cuttings;

Pruning edible honeysuckle: how to prune honeysuckle in spring (with video)

Berries of all varieties of edible honeysuckle are a healthy vitamin product.

Read also:

Honeysuckle pest control

Blue bird.

Honeysuckle berries do not ripen at the same time. It takes 10-14 days from collecting the first colored berries to mass ripening. Many varieties of honeysuckle can be harvested in one go, as they can stay on the bush for a long time without shedding. If the honeysuckle berries crumble heavily, they are harvested in two steps.

Names and Descriptions of the Best Edible Honeysuckle Varieties

The second way of reproduction of honeysuckle is lignified cuttings. But in this case, the yield of planting material is much less, about 30%. Strong annual shoots with a diameter of 6-10 mm are used for cuttings. They are cut at the end of March and before the beginning of the growing season, stored for planting in the refrigerator. Before planting, the branches are cut into cuttings up to 20 cm long. As soon as the weather permits, in early April they are planted in a nursery, greenhouse or greenhouse. When breeding and caring for honeysuckle, daily watering is necessary. Roots appear in 40-45 days. Rooted cuttings are grown next year. For successful survival, seedlings should have 2-3 branches 20-30 cm long, roots - at least 3-4 pieces 20 cm long.

Fruits are blue-blue compound fruits with a strong waxy bloom, the shape of the fruit can vary from round, oval, pitcher to fusiform. The size in length can be from 1-4 cm and in diameter up to 1.5 cm, the weight of the fruit is from 0.5-2 g. The taste can be sour, sweet and sour and even bitter. In fruits - up to 20 pcs. flat brown seeds You can find the name of the varieties of honeysuckle, as well as the description of honeysuckle and the peculiarities of its cultivation on this page.

Honeysuckle Cinderella passed varietal tests and was registered in the register in 1983. By crumbling;

The most crucial moment for getting a healthy fruitful bush is its correct planting. Layering;

The shrub likes a well-lit place without close standing groundwater and with light soil. The plant is cross-pollinated, therefore several different varieties of plants should be planted. Then the ovary of berries will be much larger. Feeding with organic fertilizers will add productivity. Honeysuckle loves ash toppings, but does not like chemistry. Only light feeding with urea in spring, even before bud break, is accepted by the plant favorably. Therefore, the cultivation of edible honeysuckle is a pleasant activity, with consistently good results.All about berries: interesting facts and photos

A variety of medium ripening. The bush is taller - up to 1.5 m. The fruits are oval. The taste is good. Productivity High: Below is a description of the high yield varieties of honeysuckle.

Due to the lack of honeysuckle seedlings, gardeners can grow seedlings through sowing seeds. The collected berries can be wiped through a strainer or simply kneaded, washed from the juice and pulp and immediately sowed into the seed box. When growing honeysuckle from seed, the sown seeds must be stratified in vivo. To do this, a box with crops is placed in the garden, if there is snow, they fall asleep and leave them in this form until spring. Cover with films in spring. Seedlings appear no earlier than mid-April. They are grown as ordinary seedlings, the seedlings are dived into pots or open ground, and grown until late autumn. In winter, they mulch, put arcs over the seedlings and cover with Agrospan. Seed offspring of honeysuckle is highly variable, so it is advisable to keep seedlings in the growing area until the first fruiting in order to see the fruits and evaluate their taste and other economic characteristics. The best seedlings are transferred to the garden. Seedlings grown from seeds enter fruiting a little later, they are selected for large-fruited, the remaining seedlings of the worst quality are culled or used for landscaping.

The root system is pivotal, densely branched, penetrating into the soil to a depth of 50-70 cm, but its radius of distribution is up to 1.8 m. ... Leaf fall begins in October. Plants leave a state of deep dormancy in October-November. In warm autumn, at this time, you can observe the secondary flowering of honeysuckle, fruit setting and even their ripening.

In amateur gardening, honeysuckle is widespread throughout the country, but mainly in the northern and middle zones of gardening, in the Far East, in Eastern Siberia, in the Urals, Altai. It is in much less demand in the southern region, and here the main reasons are that the weather conditions are not quite suitable for it as a crop and there is no zoned planting material. Honeysuckle edible in its biologically active substances and biochemical composition is in many respects superior to other well-known berry crops.

The bush is distinguished by early fruiting, in the third year.

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Planting edible honeysuckle in the country and caring for plants

Taste;

Why honeysuckle is valuable

The plant should have loose soil, filled with the necessary nutrition, which will allow the root system to develop quickly. The edible honeysuckle planting and caring for which was carried out in accordance with all the rules will quickly enter fruiting.

Dividing the bush.

How to grow honeysuckle in the garden

The biological cycle of the bush begins with early awakening. But the cessation of growth and lignification occurs in August. The question

Planting and caring for edible honeysuckle

Actinidia plant: description and photo Bakchar giant. Blue spindle.

The optimal time for planting honeysuckle in the garden for a permanent place is autumn. Spring planting loses due to the fact that the plant quickly leaves the dormant state, the dry period affects the survival rate. To obtain stable yields, joint planting of another 2-3 different varieties is required. Depending on the taste preferences of the gardener and his family, the number of planted plants can be from 3 pcs. up to 10-15 bushes. Honeysuckle is planted according to the scheme 1.5 x 1.5 m. The pit for planting is not prepared in advance, but on the eve of planting. The pit should be of the following dimensions: 50-60 x 35-40 cm. At least 300-350 g of Fertik-type fertilizer and well-rotted humus or compost of 10-15 kg are introduced into the planting pit, thoroughly mixed with the soil. The root system of the seedling is dipped in a clay mash with a root former and is not allowed to go deep. The aerial part of the crown is not shortened. After planting, watering is carried out in two steps, 5-7 liters each time. Mulch the base of the bush. In the first two years after planting in the garden, honeysuckle does not require special care, except for weeding and regular loosening of the soil. A feature of this culture is the slow growth of the bush in the first years of life, so all care should be aimed at good vegetative annual growth. The fertilizers that were applied under the seedling during planting are enough for 2-3 years of life. Then the question arises - how to feed the honeysuckle in the spring, starting from the third year after planting in the garden? Experienced gardeners during this period begin to feed the shrubs with mineral fertilizers right from early spring, adding ammonium nitrate in an amount of 30 g per plant. The introduced nitrogen promotes active growth immediately after the soil is freed from the snow. When planting and caring for honeysuckle in the fall, before digging the soil, fertilizer is applied with an increased content of phosphorus and potassium (Fertika autumn) at the rate of at least 50 g per one bush.

  • With skillful cultivation and care of edible honeysuckle, seedlings begin to bear fruit in the first year after planting in the garden. Bushes give a full harvest for 4-6 years after planting in the garden. In the period of full fruiting at the age from 7 to 14 years, the yield of the bush increases, depending on the variety, up to 5-7 kg. One of the features of honeysuckle cultivation that makes this plant very popular is the extremely rare transplant. These shrubs are durable, they can be grown in one place for 20-30 years.
  • Honeysuckle is a winter-hardy, early-growing culture, regularly bearing fruit. Honeysuckle berries are an important source of vitamins and biologically active substances in the early summer, without the vitamin period. They contain up to 9% sugars, up to 4% acids. Honeysuckle contains a lot of ascorbic acid, P-active substances, among them such important for humans as rutin, leukoanthocyanins, chlorogenic and caffeic acids. These substances increase the strength of the capillaries. Honeysuckle fruits are useful for hypertension, hypotension, atherosclerosis.
  • The bush is low only 0.7 meters, propagated by seedlings, and is very decorative. The yield is impressive, 20 kg / ha, up to three kilograms per bush. The berries are large, black with a bluish bloom. The berries have a strawberry flavor, the skin is soft, the surface is smooth. The bush is resistant to frost and does not succumb to numerous pests. He loves, if his neighbors choose "Amphora" or "Leningrad giant".
  • Yield;

An important step will be the preliminary filling of the entire plantation area with mineral fertilizers, since fertilizing with fat is undesirable in the future. Therefore, under a continuous digging, you need to add 2 matchboxes of superphosphate, one potassium salt and a bucket of organic matter for each square meter of the strip. The planting site begins to be prepared two weeks before the due date when edible honeysuckle is transplanted to a permanent place.

The seed method is more often used in nurseries. In the process of growing up, the bushes dive at a distance of 20 cm, grow and sell them at the age of three.

Grapes are a useful plant

It is one of the best medium-ripening honeysuckle varieties. The bush is vigorous, spreading. The berries are elongated-oval, blue in color. Average weight - up to 2 g. The taste of berries is sweet and sour, delicate. The variety is winter-hardy, it is not affected by diseases and pests.

Planting and caring for honeysuckle in a permanent location

The bush is medium-sized, up to 1 m high. Pay attention to the photo of the honeysuckle of this variety: the fruits ripen spindle-shaped, large - up to 1.5 g. The taste is sweet and sour, refreshing, with a slight bitterness. Ripens early.

By the age of seven, there is a gradual increase in yield. The bush thickens, and it is worth pruning the honeysuckle, that is, to reduce the overgrown bush. Once every 3-4 years, a rejuvenating pruning of edible honeysuckle is carried out by thinning. Cutting out completely skeletal branches is impractical, since then there is a very slow restoration of the crown. Before pruning the honeysuckle, select a few of the aging skeletal branches and remove their tops, then start decorative pruning. The best timing is autumn late pruning (October - November) after leaf fall.

Honeysuckle is undemanding to the soil. It grows well and bears fruit on sandy loam, loamy and even heavy soils and peat bogs. Tolerates the reaction of the soil solution from acidic (pH 4.5) to slightly alkaline (pH 7.5). A prerequisite is a good cultivation of the soil, a high content of organic matter and elements of mineral nutrition. When growing honeysuckle, one must not forget that this is a moisture-loving plant that grows well and forms large fruits with high soil and air humidity. Unfortunately, in the southern regions, it suffers from drought, can tolerate light shading, but gives a high yield in full light throughout the day. Honeysuckle is a winter-hardy culture. Even during flowering, flowers are not damaged at -8 ° C. At the same time, the winter hardiness of honeysuckle may decrease in the southern region due to unstable winter temperatures, when frosts alternate with thaws. When growing and caring for honeysuckle, keep in mind that buds can bloom in warm winter and then die from subsequent low temperatures.

This is the earliest berry in the new season, tasty and healthy. Ripens in the conditions of the southern region at the beginning of the second decade of May, which is two weeks earlier than the earliest varieties of garden strawberries.

Honeysuckle Bakcharskaya is famous for its shatter-resistant and very productive variety. With fine, large up to 1.4 grams, sour-sweet berries. This variety ripens later, but it is resistant to diseases and pests, drought tolerant. The sprawling bush does not thicken, it regulates the growth of green mass by itself.

Promising varieties of edible honeysuckle

The size of the berries.

  • Pits are dug at a distance of one and a half meters, 40 cm deep and up to half a meter wide. Two-thirds of the hole is filled with the upper fertile layer, the plant is placed on a mound, the roots are straightened, the stem is buried to three centimeters, the hole is watered and mulched from above to prevent crust formation.
  • The more common breeding method is by rooting the cuttings. Growing edible honeysuckle from cuttings is a quick way to harvest. To get rooting, you should bend the shoot from the mother bush and pin it to the ground. At the point of contact with the soil, a trench is created or a mound of earth is poured on top. Roots will develop there. A new plant with well-developed roots is separated from the mother bush only the next year.
  • When to transplant edible honeysuckle, it is decided based on the circumstances. So, for a good survival rate of a bush with bare roots, only an autumn planting is suitable. In the spring, you can plant a seedling obtained with a container growing method.
  • Among the many priceless fruits and berries grown in the orchards, cultivars of edible honeysuckle occupy a special place. Its bushes delight with the annual harvest of the first summer berries. The shrub is not afraid of frost up to 50 degrees, and the flowers are preserved even with recurrent frosts up to 8 0. It is important to ensure the development of the plant in early spring with moisture, and the harvest will be.
  • Dessert.

Vitamin.

But you can also prune honeysuckle in the spring - the video shows how this is done:

Honeysuckle is a perennial shrub with delicious and healthy berries. In order for the plant to develop intensively after planting, proper care and feeding will be required. Observing the rules for applying top dressing, the garden culture will bring a large harvest every year. At what time it is necessary to fertilize the bush, how to feed the honeysuckle in the spring, what types of mineral and organic fertilizers are used, we will consider in this article.

Organic plant supplements

The gardener's dacha, who pays due attention to growing plants, looks well-groomed, fruit crops bring a good harvest.

When planting an early variety in a garden plot, it is important to choose a good place and a soil favorable for shrubs. Garden honeysuckle is considered an unpretentious plant, but for the normal development of the bush and obtaining a large harvest, it is necessary to care for it.

Organic fertilizers

Berry culture needs regular moderate watering, timely feeding of the soil. Plant care procedures are recommended every season.

Young seedlings should be planted in a sunny, windless area. Organic fertilizers are added to the soil before planting. As the plant grows, gardeners are wondering how to feed the honeysuckle bushes.

Top dressing until the kidneys swell

For the swelling of the buds, the growth of leaves, the blooming of flowers, the ovary of fruits, the plant requires a lot of strength and energy.

Preparing the soil before planting

You can increase soil fertility by adding organic fertilizers. Overripe manure and compost have a beneficial effect on the development of the shrub. Before the flowering period, 5 kg of manure is applied under each bush. The spring procedure is carried out every three years.

If humus was not brought in in the spring, then you can feed the shrub in the fall. Gardeners should know a few facts about organic fertilizers:

  • Fertilizers in the form of humus mixed with peat can serve as mulch for shrubs. The roots of the plant are close to the surface;
  • Overripe manure and compost are nutritional supplements with a prolonged effect, therefore it is important to observe the measure;
  • Watering the shrub, rains allow nutrients to dissolve and penetrate into the soil, thereby nourishing the roots of the plant.

Before flowering

The optimal time for the introduction of organic matter is the period before the flowering of the shrub. Honeysuckle is fertilized:

  • Chicken droppings;
  • Slurry.

To do this, take 1 kg of fertilizer, add it to 5 liters of water and mix thoroughly. Such a solution will saturate the root system with nutrients, raise the plant's immunity.

The correct dosage of organic matter for feeding improves the quality and quantity of the crop, increases the resistance of the shrub to environmental influences.

The root system of a plant with an excess of organic matter can be damaged. Honeysuckle, which begins to dry out and turn yellow, indicates an oversaturation of the soil with additives. Therefore, it is better to apply a little less fertilizer for the normal development of the shrub.

Ways to prepare an effective organic fertilizer at home:

  • Take compost from wormwood, clover, mustard, weed residues. Water the ground under the bush during the flowering period;
  • Grind the lawn grass and straw, 150 g dolomite flour, mix the ingredients. Pour 5 liters of water, let it brew.

DIY organic fertilizer

To feed honeysuckle in the spring, you can prepare your own effective organic fertilizer. Herbs are suitable for this:

  • Clover;
  • Mustard;
  • Sagebrush;
  • Weeds.

The compost is made from the herbs and the bushes are watered. Leftover lawn and straw can be used. The grass is crushed, poured with water, allowed to brew for several days. You can add 150 g dolomite flour per 5 liters of water to the top dressing.

Mineral dressing

Gardeners can use mineral fertilizers as top dressing for shrubs. They quickly penetrate the soil and root system, having a positive effect on the plant.

Among the mineral preparations that can be used to fertilize garden honeysuckle, phosphorus and potassium supplements are used. They affect the increase in yield. They are introduced into the soil in early spring, before flowering. After fertilization, the soil around the bush is carefully loosened to aerate the soil. Add 10 g of phosphorus supplement or 15 g of potassium supplement per square meter of plot.

Mineral fertilizers for feeding the bush

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out every two years. The disadvantage of introducing potassium and phosphates as fertilizer is that in the future, deformation of the leaf blade, shoots is possible, and the immunity of the plant decreases.

The mineral complex is useful for the plant, if you follow the recommendations for the time and dosage of the drug.

Top dressing with potassium

The shrub assimilates potash feeding well. It improves the quality of the future harvest. The berry taste becomes more intense. The mineral completely penetrates the root system.

Powder the seedling with ash

Wood ash can be used as a potash fertilizer. This is an effective folk remedy, safe and environmentally friendly for the shrub.

Ash contains calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium and other useful trace elements. Such feeding of the plant provides proper protection of the shrub from insects and pests. The folk method has no side effects, ash is introduced into the soil in the spring, before the young seedlings are planted.

For good nutrition and active growth of the shrub, potassium sulfate or potassium sulfate is introduced into the hole before planting.

Potassium nitrate can be used as a mineral supplement. It contains 40% potassium.

Such dressings are suitable for any kind of soil, they nourish it and make it fertile.

Important! It is necessary to feed the garden varieties of honeysuckle, strictly observing the dosage of the drug. An excess of fertilizer can burn the plant's root system and dry it out.

Feeding with phosphorus

If the garden honeysuckle stops growing, the seedlings do not stretch in height, the foliage falls off prematurely, this indicates a lack of phosphorus in the soil. For this, bone meal is added to the soil. Top dressing is suitable for almost all varieties of berry crops.

Fertilizer must be added to the soil in May. The recommended dosage is 5 g per 1 sq. M.

Mineral fertilizing ammophos has an easily digestible structure. It is applied to the ground before the start of the season. For each bush, you need to take 10 g of the supplement. The procedure is performed once every two years.

You can also feed the plant in the autumn. Fertilizing the soil after the season replenishes the missing supply of useful trace elements, the soil is preparing for the new season.

Foliar dressing

After planting seedlings for the first three seasons, it is important to monitor the growth and development of the plant. Therefore, if a shrub has poor growth, pale foliage, small berries, it should be sprayed.

For this, there are effective foliar preparations, which is why it is recommended to fertilize the honeysuckle bushes:

  • Potassium sulfate:
  • Urea;
  • Superphosphate.

The gardener must apply foliar dressing, observing the basic rules for dosing. The use of mineral fertilizers is effective for the development and growth of the bush.

Spraying with urea

Urea fertilization of garden honeysuckle has a positive effect on the quality of the crop. The berries ripen large, fragrant, and transportability improves.

Spraying with urea

Urea delays flowering, reduces the risk of shedding flowers due to sudden spring frosts. Spraying is carried out in the evening or in cloudy weather by sprinkling.

Benefits of spraying with urea:

  • Processing improves the quality of the harvest (berries are large, sweet, transportable);
  • Has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of branches and leaves;
  • An effective remedy for increasing the number of kidneys.

To feed the shrub, it is necessary to prepare a solution. To do this, take 5 g of the drug and dilute in 1 liter of water, water the earth around each bush.

Pruning honeysuckle after feeding

Caring for honeysuckle garden varieties includes removing old branches. Pruning shrubs encourages the growth of new, strong shoots that will bear fruit well.

Pruning a bush

Sanitary pruning of edible honeysuckle varieties is carried out in March, before the buds begin to swell, or after the leaves fall, before the first frost. Removing unnecessary branches allows for a neat appearance of the bush and prevents it from growing randomly.

The pruning scheme for garden varieties of honeysuckle depends on the age of the plant. After planting young cuttings, the first three years, the bushes do not need sanitary pruning. For the new season, only dried branches without buds should be removed.

Shrub pruning should be done to thin out and rejuvenate the honeysuckle. The procedure can be carried out in autumn or spring.

  • Select damaged, old branches and those that are inclined to the ground. Prune them with garden shears or pruning shears. Up to 5 strong and healthy shoots are left on the bush;
  • In old fruiting honeysuckle, it is allowed to completely remove all branches to the base;
  • Thinning the crown allows light to penetrate into the bush. This is necessary for the future harvest;
  • Thick old central branches can be easily removed using a lopper. They no longer develop and do not give young shoots;
  • After removing the branches, the bushes should be watered abundantly, the soil should be fertilized, and a layer of mulch should be laid out.

Good feeding, watering the bushes of garden honeysuckle is a secret that will allow you to grow a healthy plant on the site and get a rich harvest of useful berries every season.

The edible variety of honeysuckle can be fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Spring, summer and autumn are suitable for plant nutrition. The time of fertilization depends on the condition of the soil at the time of planting the seedlings and the subsequent development of the shrub.

Knowing how to properly care for the shrub, how and when to feed the honeysuckle, you can help the plant get rid of diseases and pests.

Video

In one place, edible honeysuckle can grow up to 20 years, but it tolerates a transplant at almost any age. From 3-4 years old the bark begins to "peel off" from the plant, which peels off in long strips and thereby exposes the reddish wood. Do not be intimidated by this, because this phenomenon is simply a feature of honeysuckle. Timber often needs to be sawn to separate a bush because it is very durable. In principle, the reproduction of honeysuckle will be discussed below. Garden honeysuckle has rather tall, erect bushes, which at the age of 7 can have a height of up to 1.8 m. In addition, the bushes are densely branched and spreading, with a diameter of up to 2 m. about 12 - 18 skeletal brushes. New shoots grow annually from the buds on the growths of the previous year. In the axils of the lower leaves of new shoots, flowers are formed, and later - fruits.


The next year's harvest is gradually laid during the summer in the axils of the upper leaves in the flower buds. It should be noted that the root system of the plant extends 50 - 60 cm beyond the crown perimeter. Moreover, the roots of the honeysuckle bush penetrate quite deeply into the ground, since the root system is pivotal. The bulk of the sucking roots is located at a depth of 60 - 80 cm. The arrangement of buds and leaves in honeysuckle is very characteristic: on a branch they are located opposite each other in rounded pairs, often have stipules. This characteristic arrangement helps to easily identify the honeysuckle seedlings, which makes them very difficult to confuse with another plant.

The fruit of honeysuckle is a compound fruit formed as a result of overgrown bracts, which is often called berries. In this article, we will also call them that.

Growing features

Edible honeysuckle is a winter-hardy plant: its growth buds and wood can withstand frosts down to -50 ° C, and roots and flower buds endure up to -40 ° C. As for the buds, flowers and young ovaries, they are not afraid of frosts down to -8 ° C. Honeysuckle loves the sun and loamy soil well filled with organic matter, in which the acid reaction is close to neutral. In principle, the plant grows well in the shade, but fruiting decreases. Since honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant, it needs good company. For good fruiting, it is recommended to plant honeysuckle in a group of 3 - 4 bushes of different varieties. In hot and dry weather, especially in spring and early summer, honeysuckle should be watered, as it is hygrophilous. In regions with high air humidity, the plant also feels great, because it loves moist air. Honeysuckle does not like stagnant waters and proximity to groundwater. In such conditions, her root system begins to rot. Honeysuckle has a negative reaction to acidic soil: the yield falls and the foliage turns pale. He prefers organic feeding most of all, does not approve of mineral ones.

What is the best variety for growing?

In regions with cold summers, the following varieties and hybrids are most suitable for growing: Morena, Pavlovskaya, Blue Spindle, Amphora, Titmouse, Violet, Nymph


grade Nymph
For other regions, the following varieties have proven themselves well: Sineglazka, Vasyugan, Tomichka, Blue Bird, Bochkarskaya, Borel, Blue Spindle, Gerda, Cinderella, Chernichka and Kamchadalka. However, there are other varieties that are recommended by nurseries for propagation.


Sineglazka variety
The early variety is Morena. This shrub is non-thickening, of medium height and has a rounded crown. The fruits are large, weighing more than 1 g. Up to 2 kg of harvest can be harvested from one bush. The berries crumble a little, have a sweet and sour taste, without bitterness, with a pleasant, weak aroma.

Variety Nymph with an average ripening period. The bush has a round, dense crown and medium height. The weight of large spindle-shaped berries is 1.2 g. The berries crumble a little, have a sweet taste and strong aroma, without bitterness. From one bush yield up to 2 kg.

The Viola variety is also medium-ripening. A vigorous bush of this variety has a dense oval crown. Fruit weight about 1 g, oval shape with a slight thickening towards the top; fruits do not crumble, have a slight piquant bitterness. It is worth noting that the Viola variety is fast-growing with a high yield (3-4 kg per bush).

The Amphora variety is also of medium ripening. This medium-sized bush has a thin rounded crown, and the yield ranges from 1.5 to 3.0 kg. The berries do not crumble. Violet belongs to the medium late variety. The bush is slightly spreading, of medium size, dense, with little fruit shedding. Productivity 1.3 - 1.8 kg. Berries without bitterness, with a sweet and sour taste.


Planting honeysuckle

Considering the fact that the growing season of the plant ends early, that is, the edible honeysuckle passes into a state of dormancy by the end of July, all growth processes by this moment in the plant cease. As a result, no matter what changes occur in the external environment, they will not cause bud breakup until spring. Thanks to this fact, the planting of honeysuckle can be done from August to mid-November. Spring planting and transplanting can be performed exclusively by transshipment along with a large clod of earth from one place to another.

No transportation and planting of a seedling from a container in the spring can be done!

However, in the spring, the plants still do not take root well and get sick. This can be explained by the fact that honeysuckle awakens very early. Her buds begin to dissolve already in late March - early April, and from this moment it is undesirable to disturb the plant. It is necessary to choose a place for planting honeysuckle in such a way that the plant is subsequently illuminated by the sun throughout the day. In addition, you do not need to worry about protection from northern winds, that is, you can plant honeysuckle even from the northern side of the site. Alternatively, plants can be planted under trees on the south side so that the sun constantly falls on them.

The distance between the bushes should be at least 150 cm, because in the future, the bushes will grow strongly and the passages between them will narrow. The branches of honeysuckle are rather fragile, so if you touch them inaccurately during harvesting, they easily break off. Bushes can be planted as a group along the fence, and in the corner of the site. By the way, black currant is a good neighbor of honeysuckle, so they can be grown in the same row.

Honeysuckle is an unpretentious plant, therefore it is adapted to the harsh climate and various types of soils, that is, the plant does not require special care. But if you plant honeysuckle in an undeveloped area right on the virgin soil, then the quantity and quality of the berries will significantly decrease. In other words, under such conditions, the plant should not be purchased at all.

Planting holes need to be dug 40 x 40 x 40 cm in size. After that, the hole must be filled with well-rotted compost. Each bush will need 2 buckets of compost. Then you need to add 3 tablespoons of double granular superphosphate and a liter can of ash. Instead of ash, you can use dolomite, chalk or a half-liter jar of lime, or add 2 tablespoons of potash fertilizer to 3 tablespoons of superphosphate.

When planting honeysuckle on sandy soil, the dose of organic matter should be increased to 3 buckets. Next, all this must be mixed well and poured with water so that the soil is moist throughout the depth of the pit. Then make a small mound in the center of the hole. Spread out the roots of the plant. If you find broken roots, cut them to a whole part. Lower the plant into the prepared hole and cover the top with any loose soil, for example, dug out of the hole. In order for the soil to adhere well to the roots, it must be watered again and add more soil on top.

When planting, the honeysuckle can not be buried, since it does not give root offspring, but according to observations, it is better to deepen the root collar when planting by 5 - 6 cm. With age, additional adventitious roots will form on the lower, buried part of the stem. After planting, you must immediately mulch the soil to prevent moisture evaporation. Any mulching material can be used, including even multiple layers of newspaper.

Please note that, unlike many berry bushes, honeysuckle bushes do not need to be cut and shortened when planting, otherwise the growth and development of the plant will be delayed, which will adversely affect the entry of honeysuckle into fruiting. After all, the value of a plant lies precisely in its rapid entry into fruiting.

Honeysuckle feeding

Further care of the plant consists in timely pruning of dried, broken branches, as well as branches growing inside the crown and thickening the bush. This is best done in early September. For the first 3 years, the plant needs only timely watering and weeding from weeds. Organic matter must be applied under the bush, starting from the third year. It is enough to add a bucket of organic matter under each bush in the spring, and at the end of August, half a liter can of ash. Nitrogen fertilization should be given literally over the melting snow, that is, at the beginning of the growing season. For this, 1 tablespoon of urea is enough for a bucket of water under each bush. However, even if you do not do this, the plant will still give you a harvest of berries, albeit a small one. With good care, the yield reaches 4 - 6 kg per bush.

It is worth noting that honeysuckle grows gradually and usually reaches its maximum value only by the age of 7. At the age of 20, due to the death of large skeletal branches, fruiting decreases. With the help of strong pruning, the bush can be rejuvenated. To do this, you need to gradually (year after year) cut out part of the non-fruiting branches to the trunk itself.

Reproduction of honeysuckle

Honeysuckle can be easily propagated by seed. But due to the fact that honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant, the parental properties in its offspring are practically not preserved, that is, new varieties usually appear, which are often worse than the parental ones. Although, of course, plants with excellent flavor berries may appear. It is for this reason that the seed propagation method is mainly used in breeding work, or in the case when honeysuckle is grown for landscaping.

However, every hobby gardener can use seed propagation. To do this, smear ripe berries on toilet paper, while pushing the seeds apart at a distance of 1 cm. Then let them dry. Then write the year and roll the paper. At room temperature, seed germination lasts 2 years. It is much easier to sow the seeds collected in June immediately into moist soil. They need to be buried in the soil only 1 mm, because they are quite small. Want to sow them in a box, which then needs to be placed in the greenhouse, covered with glass or film on top, but in such a way that it does not touch the soil. The only thing you need to make sure that the topsoil does not dry out. Seedling begins approximately 3 weeks after sowing.

It is necessary to take the boxes outside in late autumn. Winter-hardy seedlings will easily endure wintering under the snow. The seeds of the current summer can also be sown at the end of October - November. In this case, the box with the sown seeds just needs to be left outside, where it will winter under the snow. As a result, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and sprout in early spring. For the quick emergence of friendly shoots, the boxes can be brought into the greenhouse in April. When the height of the seedlings reaches 2 - 3 cm, and they also have 2 - 3 pairs of true leaves, then you need to make a dive into a weed-free bed. A dive into open ground should be done according to the 5 x 5 cm scheme. In the future, constant watering is needed, the removal of weeds when they appear and loosening. After a year, the seedlings should be placed according to the 20 x 20 cm scheme. Usually 3-4 years after sowing, the seedlings begin to bear fruit. It is just at this moment that you need to select those bushes on which the berries are more tasty and large, without bitterness. The rest of the seedlings can be used as a green fence or simply thrown away. By the way, honeysuckle has a pretty good haircut.

Plants selected for their taste should be transplanted into place in the same autumn. Unfortunately, you will be able to identify bushes with high yields and good taste only after 7 - 8 years. To preserve its parental properties, honeysuckle must be propagated vegetatively, by rooting cuttings or by dividing the bush.

The division of the bush can be done only at the age of 8 - 15 years. As already mentioned, the honeysuckle bush can only be divided with an ax and a saw, because its wood is unusually strong. Each separated part should have at least 2 - 3 skeletal branches, 2 stems and each root about 20 cm. It is advisable to prune branches with pruning shears at a height of 30 - 40 cm. Delenki should be immediately planted in a prepared place. Propagation of honeysuckle by cuttings is considered more effective.

About 200 plants can be cut and planted from one adult bush. To prepare lignified cuttings, you need to use the strongest annual branches, the diameter of which is 7 - 8 mm (at least!). Cuttings are cut before bud break, that is, in early spring (usually the end of March). Cuttings must be cut into pieces (15 - 18 cm) and planted in a garden bed or directly in a greenhouse. And you need to plant when the ground thaws. It is necessary to deepen the cuttings into the soil by 10 cm, but in such a way that only 2 upper buds remain above the surface. To increase the survival rate of cuttings, they need to be covered with a film or lutrasil. About a month after rooting, roots begin to appear in the cuttings.

Honeysuckle can be cut immediately after flowering, that is, in May. To do this, you need to cut off last year's (one-year shoot) from the plant, on which the growing shoots of this year are located. Cut into pieces so that at the base of each young shoot there is a piece of last year's branch on which it grew. When planting such cuttings on a garden bed, they need to be buried in the soil by 3 - 5 cm. It is recommended to put a film cover over them and water it moderately 2 - 3 times a day. Shoot tips from cuttings will begin to grow after about 2 weeks. At the same time, roots will begin to form at the base. A transplant should be done only next fall. Such cuttings are called combined.

In addition, honeysuckle can be propagated by green cuttings. It is noticed that the best cuttings are obtained just from the green growing shoots of the current year at the time of their growth decay. At this time, the fruits of the honeysuckle begin to stain. Usually this period falls on the beginning of June. The thickness and size of cuttings from green young shoots should be with a pencil. They are rooted in the soil in the same way as lignified ones. The only condition is that the air and soil in the cuttings must be constantly moist.

If the cuttings are kept in a solution of "Heteroauxin" or "Kornevin" before rooting, then their survival rate will be much better and faster. The grown seedlings can be transplanted into place next fall. For better rooting of cuttings, it is convenient to use "Hydrogel" or "Aquadon". These preparations will keep the soil in the root zone constantly moist. When planting honeysuckle in place, it is useful to use the AVA fertilizer. It is enough to add 1 tablespoon of this wonderful fertilizer under the roots of each bush to replace superphosphate, potassium or ash. Re-feeding with this fertilizer will need to be done after 3 years. When re-feeding, the fertilizer must be poured into the topsoil in the zone of sucking roots (as mentioned above, it is located 50 cm beyond the perimeter of the crown of the bush). The plant does not need any more mineral fertilizers. All that needs to be done is to water it in arid and add organic matter in a bucket after fruiting.

Pests and diseases of honeysuckle

At the time of pouring the berries, leaf rollers may appear, the caterpillars of which like to feast on the tops of young shoots and leaves. The second pest is aphids, which suck sap from the leaves, which leads to their yellowing. Sometimes honeysuckle can damage the willow scale, which is clearly visible on the bark in the form of dense, convex "commas". This pest sucks the juice out of the bark.


this is how the scale insects look like
The safest and easiest way to deal with all the listed pests is by spraying the bush with "Fitoverm". You need to spray in the evening. Instead of Fitoverma, you can use Iskra - Bio or Agravertin. In rare years, powdery mildew may appear on honeysuckle, but basically it does not suffer from any diseases. If powdery mildew appears, use a solution of Fitosporin. The listed drugs are not poisons, they are biological, so they will not do any harm to your garden.


Useful properties of honeysuckle

First of all, this plant is valuable for its unpretentiousness, resistance to pests, diseases and frost resistance. Ripening of honeysuckle berries occurs earlier than all other berry crops. They can be used to make compotes, juices, make jam, or just use it raw. It can also be frozen. Due to its medicinal properties, honeysuckle has been valued since ancient times. Biochemical studies have even confirmed the indispensability of honeysuckle as a therapeutic and dietary food. This is due to the fact that its berries are a storehouse of biologically active substances and vitamins.

In the early period of ripening lies the special value of honeysuckle, thanks to which you can fill in the vitamin deficiency in the early summer. The berries contain easily digestible sucrose, sugars, fructose and glucose, as well as almost all the vitamins and organic acids that the human body needs. In addition, the berries contain magnesium, potassium, iron, calcium, zinc, silicon, iodine, copper and other trace elements. In case of cardiovascular diseases, it is recommended to use honeysuckle berries to strengthen the blood vessels, as well as for hypertension, bleeding caused by the fragility of the blood vessels, with a breakdown caused by vitamin deficiency, and anemia.

Recipes with honeysuckle

To prepare jelly from honeysuckle, you will need 1 tablespoon of starch, 500 g of berries, 3 liters of water and 300 g of sugar. You need to put sugar and berries in boiling water and boil for 5 - 7 minutes. Dissolve the starch in a glass of cold but boiled water and pour, stirring occasionally, into the boiling jelly. Remove from heat as soon as the jelly begins to boil again. To make juice from honeysuckle, you need 300 g of sugar and 1 liter of juice. It is necessary to squeeze the juice from the berries, then pour the pulp with boiling water (1 liter) and boil for 3-4 minutes. Then strain and combine with juice. Add sugar and bring to a boil. It is very important not to boil! Remove from heat and pour into sterile bottles, cork and cool under a blanket. Store in a cool place.

To make honeysuckle jam, you will need 800 g of granulated sugar for 1 kg of sweet honeysuckle. It is necessary to cover the berries with granulated sugar and stand for 8 hours. Then heat slowly, bring to a boil and remove from heat. This procedure must be repeated 2-3 times.

Bon Appetit!

Message Series "

The honeysuckle shrub is an interesting and unusually climbing plant that will become another fruiting bush on the territory of its own plot. With proper planting, cultivation and care, a good result can be achieved.

Honeysuckle can grow upward, reaching about 2.5-3 meters. Very often, due to their fluffiness and height, a hedge is made from these shrubs on the territory - this is very popular in landscape design. If you want to plant a plant just as a decorative decoration, it is better to purchase tall varieties. Low-growing varieties of honeysuckle are also suitable, if there is no need for the plant to bear fruit. But it is very important to take into account that not every honeysuckle has edible fruits, since there are also decorative species.
There are several recommendations for purchasing a seedling:
  • You should buy 2-year-old bushes, 30-40 centimeters high, with 2-3 branches.
  • The branches of the seedling should be flexible, not dried out, without visible damage. Be sure to inspect the shoots and roots of each bush.
  • Paying attention to the peeling of the bark, do not worry, as this is a cultural feature.
  • It is very important to take a closer look at the development of the root system, the presence of buds on the branches. It is not worth purchasing stunted bushes without buds.
  • It is best to buy at the same time seedlings of different varieties - at least 2 or 4. Honeysuckle is a plant that is cross-pollinated, but not all varieties are able to pollinate each other equally well. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase pair varieties.
In the future, it will be possible to propagate the shrubs on your own.

How to plant a bush?

Despite the fact that honeysuckle is an unpretentious plant, it still needs attention. The shrub loves well-warmed moist fertile soil, the penetration of sunlight, but at the same time the lower branches of the honeysuckle should be hidden in the shade. You should also choose a landing site on an area that is protected from the wind. You can plant honeysuckle on any soil except sandy. And you should not plant shrubs in areas with a close occurrence of groundwater.

Saplings with an open root system should be planted in early autumn, when the growth of shoots stops and the plant enters a state of dormancy. With a closed root system, seedlings should be planted throughout the growing season.

When planting a plant, you should proceed in stages:

  • 3-5 days before planting, holes should be dug 40x40x40 centimeters in size, keeping a distance of 1.5-2 meters from each other for low-growing varieties, 2.5-3 meters for tall shrubs.
  • In each hole, it is imperative to make a drainage layer consisting of expanded clay, broken brick, rubble, etc.
  • The wells should be filled with a mixture of fertile soil with the addition of 1 kilogram of ash, 50 grams of superphosphate and 2 buckets of compost. If the soil is still sandy, then the amount of compost should be increased to 3 buckets, you can also add a little clay - 4-5 kilograms per 1 square meter.
  • The wells must be watered abundantly with water. Make an earthen mound in the center, and carefully place a seedling on its top, straighten the roots so that they are evenly distributed along the sides of the mound.
  • The roots must be carefully sprinkled with earth, and the root collar must not be buried. After planting, you need to water the shrub abundantly to settle the earth. If necessary, add some more soil.

After planting, it is imperative to mulch the ground around the bush - this is necessary to prevent moisture evaporation.


More details about the care and description of honeysuckle can be seen in a short video, which demonstratively shows the appearance of the bush and its features:

The first harvest usually gives honeysuckle in the second year after planting. If you take care of it correctly, then every year the plant will delight you with delicious fruits in large quantities. Moreover, one plant can produce crops for 30 years. Due to the fact that the shrub is picky, practically does not get sick and does not require special care, it is quite easy to provide comfortable conditions for development. In the autumn, dried branches and shoots that grow inside the crown should be cut off - this will thin out the bush.

In the springtime, it is important to fertilize each bush with organic fertilizers. When snow melts during the growing season, it is best to feed the shrubs with nitrogen fertilizers. And during the flowering and fruiting period, the honeysuckle should be watered once a month with an ash solution. Do not forget about regular weeding. It is necessary to loosen the ground under the bush very carefully, since the root system of the bush is too close to the surface.

When to water and what to feed?

Honeysuckle does not like dry soil, but at the same time, abundant moisture is not required for the shrub. The norm for watering is 1-1.5 buckets per bush, and in a drought - 2-2.5 vera. You need to water the bushes as the soil dries out.

As for feeding, it is not necessary for the first two years after planting. Then fertilizers should be applied after a year, and it is best to choose organic substances. In late autumn, you can feed the shrubs with compost (5 kg), ash (100 g), double superphosphate (40 g) for each square meter of the plot. Every spring, before the buds open, ammonium nitrate should be added to the soil at the rate of 15 g per 1 square meter, and 1 bucket of water with urea dissolved in it (40-50 g) should be poured under each bush. For the third time in a season, you need to feed the honeysuckle after harvest, in early July. For this, a prepared solution is used: 25-30 g of nitroammophoska or nitrophoska per 10 liters of water.

Correct pruning for better growth

The first 2-3 years, pruning of honeysuckle may not be necessary, and then, if the shoots develop normally, and the bush is not excessively thick, you should not rush to pruning. That is, in some cases, pruning of the bush is done 7-8 years after planting. But some experts strongly recommend cutting off the shoots of seedlings immediately after planting to 7-8 centimeters, and only then wait until the bush is overgrown with leaves. Pruning is best done in the fall.

If, nevertheless, the bush began to thicken, it is necessary to cut out some zero branches that grow from the ground. Dry, short, broken branches should be removed as they will still not bear fruit well. It is necessary to thin out the bush inside so that the light penetrates through the foliage and branches into the thick of it. Fruits grow mainly on strong one-year-old shoots, therefore, for the next harvest, you do not need to cut off the shoots of the current year. It is better to shorten the ends of low growth shoots if the middle and base of the shoot are strong enough.

Poorly fruiting old branches can be cut. You should also get rid of low-growing shoots that interfere with the cultivation of the soil around the bushes. It is permissible to rejuvenate the old bush by cutting off almost all shoots and branches. But at the same time, you need to leave young growth around the stump. In the spring, it is very important to carry out a sanitary pruning of the bush - slightly prune the ends of the shoots frozen after winter, get rid of sick, broken branches. After fruiting, the honeysuckle should be pruned to maintain the shape of the bush.

Disease and pest control

In general, honeysuckle is very resistant to diseases and pests, but occasionally it also has to become a victim of the invasion of various "creatures". Scientists have found that there are 37 pests that feed on the leaves of the plant, and one insect that consumes its berries - the caterpillar of the honeysuckle fingerfly. This pest first damages the fruit during its ripening, which is why it turns blue ahead of time, after which it dries up and disappears. The rest of the pests damage the foliage of the plant, enveloping it in cobwebs. These pests include the following:
  • honeysuckle mite;
  • honeysuckle, apical honeysuckle and honeysuckle-spruce aphids;
  • mottled honeysuckle moth;
  • honeysuckle miners;
  • rose leaf roll;
  • honeysuckle striped sawfly;
  • acacia, apple comma-shaped and willow false scutes.
Fight sucking insects should be Rogorom, Confidor, Aktellik and other similar drugs. But pests that gnaw leaves can be eliminated with the help of Decis, Inta-Vir or Eleksar.

Honeysuckle can also collide with diseases caused by a fungal infection:

  • blackening of branches;
  • reddish olive blotch;
  • tuberculariosis (drying of branches);
  • powdery mildew.
Each fungal disease has its own symptoms: from some fungi, honeysuckle dries up, its shoots become brown or black, from others the plant turns yellow and crumbles prematurely. It is extremely rare that a shrub infects cancer, as well as viral diseases - mosaic-razuha and speckled leaves. No drugs have yet been found against viruses, but fungal diseases can be fought using fungicides:
  • colloidal sulfur;
  • bordeaux solution;
  • copper oxychloride;
  • Speed
There is no need to wait until the shrub gets sick or is attacked by various pests. Measures should be taken to avoid such a misfortune - to carry out prevention with the above means in early spring, before the start of active growth and in late autumn before winter. Then you don't have to deal with troubles, and in extreme cases, get rid of the plant.

Since caring for honeysuckle is quite simple, there is no doubt that such a plant can be planted on your site, inspected periodically and protected from adversity. If you accept all the recommendations, then for many years the shrub will, if not please with its fruits, then with external characteristics as a hedge.

The honeysuckle culture (lat. Lonicera) is a bright representative of the Honeysuckle family. The plant is represented by 200 species of shrubs. There are creeping, erect and curly forms of honeysuckle. The culture is widespread in the countries of East Asia. Used for vertical gardening. Inflorescences can take on a pink, yellow or azure hue. Honeysuckle is often grown for its beneficial fruits. Some varieties produce inedible berries. It is important to take into account the decorativeness of the shrub when choosing a subspecies of culture.

The honeysuckle planting site must be protected from drafts.

Location

Honeysuckle prefers brightly lit areas. It is advisable to choose a place protected from wind and drafts. In a shaded area, the plant will reduce the production of new buds. The harvest will decrease significantly.

It should be borne in mind that the plant will need at least half a meter of distance. Overgrown branches can intertwine with other plantings.

Watering

Honeysuckle belongs to moisture-loving plants. It is advisable to select a site with fertile, well-drained soil. An additional advantage will be the deep location of the groundwater. Stagnant water at the root system is detrimental to honeysuckle.

In the summer, it is necessary to moisten the soil daily. For an adult member of the Honeysuckle family, you will need about 10 liters of warm water.

In summer, honeysuckle needs constant soil moisture.

Cold liquid combined with high air temperature causes plant diseases. For uniform watering of the rhizome, it is necessary to moisten the near-stem circle at the base of the shrub.

Do not spray water on the plant during flowering. The pressure of the water can wash off the pollen. Subsequently, the honeysuckle will not form berries.

Transfer

Honeysuckle is very difficult to tolerate a transplant. The culture should be removed very carefully. The fragile root system can be severely damaged.

A new drop-off site must be prepared in advance. You need to loosen the area with a garden shovel and add compost to a depth of about 40 centimeters.

It is recommended to lay out a thick drainage layer at the bottom of the pit. In open ground, it is advisable to use expanded clay or clean medium-grained sand. Then you need to pour out a sufficient amount of fertile soil with compost. The bush should be placed exactly in the center. The roots must be carefully straightened.

It is necessary to carefully prepare the soil for planting honeysuckle.

An adult plant is difficult to transplant. Roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile garden shears. After planting, it is necessary to cover a layer of mulch at the base of the honeysuckle. The landing site should be watered abundantly with settled water.

Temperature

The plant is able to withstand sudden changes in temperature conditions.

Air humidity

Certain varieties of honeysuckle require a high level of environmental humidity. It is recommended to cultivate honeysuckle in the shade of large green spaces. It is very effective to choose the canopy of trees as a planting site.

Pruning honeysuckle

All members of the genus need periodic pruning. The procedure should be carried out in the fall, after the fruit has ripened.

For the first 3 years, you do not need to clean the plant. Gardeners advise pruning the shoots of the seedlings during planting. The branches can be only eight centimeters long.

If the shrub has acquired a dense form, zero shoots should be removed at the very base. It is necessary to cut out all damaged and fading branches.

Using the bonsai technique, you can create an amazing dwarf miniature.

Berries are formed exclusively on massive shoots of the current year. Therefore, you should thin out the honeysuckle. The plant will be able to receive more sunlight.

To rejuvenate the shrub, you can cut off all the branches and shoots. It is enough to leave young children (shoots) at the base of the stump.

In the spring, it is recommended to sanitize the honeysuckle. It will be necessary to cut off the shoots that have died from severe frost. Any branches broken by the wind should also be removed. By pruning, you can give the shrub the desired shape.

Growing and caring for honeysuckle outdoors

In the open field, the plant must be carefully spud in the spring. It is recommended to regularly remove weeds around the shrub. After watering, gently loosen the soil at the base of the crop.

Honeysuckle is an unpretentious plant. For the rapid growth of climbing vines, additional support is required. The length of the plant directly depends on the height of the support. Honeysuckle (also known as honeysuckle) can grow up to 2 meters in a year.

In the northern regions, it is advisable to cover the shrub for the winter with spruce branches. At the base of the plant, you can lay out a thick layer of mulch in the form of peat briquettes and dry leaves. Only one-year-old seedlings will need careful care in the cold season.

How to grow honeysuckle in the country can be found in the video:

The basics of growing a crop

The soil

It is recommended to prepare a well-drained and loose soil mixture. Arid soil is detrimental to shrubs. The composition can be prepared at home. This will require sod land, compost, peat and sand.

The acidity level should be between 7.5 and 8.5. Heavy and depleted soil can stop the development of honeysuckle. It is advisable to use crumbs of broken brick or gravel as drainage for growing in a container. The layer on the bottom of the container must be at least 7 cm.

Top dressing

Mineral and organic compounds can be used once every 3 weeks. Correct alternation of elements will help the development of the crop and protect the plant from pests.

Container

It is not advisable to choose a large container for a seedling. With each subsequent transplant, it is necessary to change the pot to a larger container.

It is advisable to use a stable flowerpot with strong material for the plant. There should be several drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.

Typical pests and diseases

Improper care of honeysuckle can cause damage to the culture by various insects and diseases.

Among several types of the disease, the greatest danger can be caused by powdery mildew, spotting, tuberculariosis, blackening of branches, drying of shoots. Fungal spores appear on the leaves and shoots.

Determining the defeat of a culture is very simple. Premature wilting, drying shoots, mold or drilling in various areas are clear signs of bacterial infection.

The first signs of bacterial damage to honeysuckle.

Pests can carry dangerous viral diseases - leaf mottling and mosaic-rezu. It is very rare for a plant to contract cancer. Honeysuckle viral diseases are not treatable. The container plant must be destroyed. Fungal can be cured with oxochloride of chalk, colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux mixture.

Miners, aphids, striped sawflies, leafworms, false scutes and mites attack the leaves of the bush. Large areas of cobwebs can be seen on the plant.

Effective insecticides for getting rid of pests - Decis, Inta-Vir, Rogor and Confidorm.

Honeysuckle response

Fruits and other areas of edible honeysuckle have no contraindications. Excessive consumption can cause nausea and skin rashes.

Inedible varieties are widely used in the preparation of decoctions and extracts. It is not recommended to make your own funds at home. The red and orange fruits are highly poisonous.

Breeding technology

Several techniques can be used to spread honeysuckle:

  • seeds;
  • dividing the bush;
  • layering;
  • combined cuttings;
  • green lignified shoots.

Each technique has its own strengths and weaknesses. Edible varieties can be propagated using seeds. The plant belongs to cross-pollinated crops. Therefore, new shrubs may not retain the properties and varietal advantages of the parent crop.

Honeysuckle seeds.

A shrub from seeds is most often grown for breeding new subspecies and as a selection experiment.

To divide the bush, you must choose honeysuckle between the ages of six and fifteen years. A plant that is too small cannot provide quality planting material. To separate a representative over 15 years old, you will need an ax or a saw. The shrub may die.

The most effective and popular home spreading techniques are cuttings and layering.

Why honeysuckle doesn't bloom

If buds are not forming on the shrub, it is necessary to change the mulch layer. You can compost the soil and treat the honeysuckle with Phytosporin.

Bright inflorescence of honeysuckle.

Additionally, you can use potash and phosphorus fertilizers. In the open field, horse dung in granules should also be added. You can buy top dressing at the garden center.

It is also necessary to reconsider the conditions for caring for the plant.

Honeysuckle selection

It is advisable to purchase a shrub in the form of a seedling. A plant with a closed root system has the highest survival rate.

The average cost of the Amphora honeysuckle seedling is 247 rubles. You can buy Aromatic Liana honeysuckle seeds for 57 rubles.