Detailed drawing of a carpenter's workbench. How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials. Countertop fabrication and installation

It is customary to call a carpentry workbench a table of a special design with a solid and durable surface that allows mounting various devices and mechanisms on it. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted for rigid fixing of additional stationary equipment on it (a circular saw, for example, or a milling cutter). small size) used on common materials such as wood or metal.

Before you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as with some of the most popular options.

Design requirements

The working characteristics of the table-workbench are:

Its height, adapted to the height of the user, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without slouching, while maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
Dimensions of the tabletop, selected for reasons of the possibility of placing on it all the necessary tools, as well as taking into account the dimensions of the workpieces being processed.
A set of fixtures mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and a clamp (screw vice).
Adaptability "under the arm" of its owner, who may turn out to be left-handed.

Most suitable for self-manufacturing is a variant of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a table top installed on it. The length of such a design usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80–100 cm).

Before starting work, you should decide whether your workbench will stationary fixture, or it must be collapsible (collapsible).

Material selection

The most suitable material for the construction of a stationary workbench is considered to be wood, from which the supporting base with support frames, as well as the tabletop itself, are made. For the manufacture of frames, a standard planed beam with a section of 100 × 70 mm is best suited. As auxiliary jumpers that increase the rigidity of the frame base, the same bar can be used, but with a slightly smaller section (100 × 50 mm, for example).

The tabletop of the workbench can be assembled from well-cut and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick. In addition, a finished solid canvas (an old solid door, for example) or a blank cut from laminated chipboard with a reliable and durable coating.

When choosing a material, preference should be given to hardwoods, such as, for example, beech, oak or maple.

Construction assembly

The manufacture of a workbench begins with the assembly of a frame base, on which a table top of your choice is subsequently installed. The order of operations performed in this case is as follows:

First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, equipped in the form of two frame structures made of timber with a section of 100 × 70 mm.
Then these frames are connected in the upper part by two longitudinal bars, which, together with the upper lintels of the frames, serve as supports for the table top. (Note that for reliable fastening individual elements between each other in the design we are describing, it is best to use the classic “thorn-to-groove” connection with mandatory gluing of the docking areas).
The lower parts of the support frames are fastened with longitudinal jumpers made of timber 100 × 50 mm, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (For their fastening, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the bar).
In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and spikes are first prepared in blanks, after which the entire structure is assembled in one go (after applying glue to the joints).

During the assembly process, special attention must be paid to the next working moment, which determines the quality of the entire subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to monitor the compliance of the dimensions of individual elements with the design data, as well as control the horizontalness of their installation using the building level.

In the case of the manufacture of countertops from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that there are no gaps in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (by 1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions of the supporting base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of placing auxiliary equipment on the table.

When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with screws to the transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very base, special grooves for these bars should be prepared. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully polished, and then treated with a protective solution (lining oil is usually used for these purposes). To fix it on the base, special metal corners.

Regarding the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vices, stops, etc.) on the workbench, the following can be said:

It is most convenient to place a working vice on the end of the countertop, having previously prepared a small recess for fasteners at the installation site. WITH reverse side table in the attachment area, it is necessary to provide a plywood gasket that protects the surface from damage.
In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop, fixing the workpiece in working area and making it easier to work with. On the wooden tabletop it is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), which are adjusted in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fix it.
Sometimes stops are made by simply building up the table top using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and closed on the back side with a limiting bar.

In the event that there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench consisting of a tabletop that leans against the wall and a special folding frame.

This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width of the support legs of the folding workbench does not exceed half the length of the table top (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).

You also need to take care that the top crossbar on the supports is located below the board with the fastening of the hinge of the reclining tabletop. The material for the manufacture of a folding workbench table can be any monolithic chipboard blank.

The supporting frames of the structure are made of bars 100 × 40 mm, the articulation of which is carried out using pre-prepared metal plates, fixed on the racks and lintels with the help of bolts of the appropriate size.

Video

This video shows the process of building a carpentry workbench:

Photo

Convenient workplace, well equipped, with a solid carpentry workbench - can greatly facilitate processing wooden products. This makes it possible to speed up the production process and improve the quality of the final product.

If there is no time for manufacturing, you can purchase a ready-made workbench in the distribution network. Compared to this option, handmade production desktop has a number of advantages:

opportunity to get a carpentry workbench right size and functionality;
rational placement of work units and additional equipment;
the purchase of a finished workbench will cost much more.

Design requirements

Depending on the intended work, carpenter's table must have the following characteristics:

The mass and rigidity of the structure must be sufficient to ensure the integrity and stability of the desktop.
The presence of devices for fixing and holding the workpieces (stops, screw clamps,).
Possibility of ergonomic placement of additional equipment.
The dimensions of the future carpentry workbench depend on the mass and dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed on it.
The free space in the workshop should be taken into account. There are projects of compact workbenches that allow you to organize a workplace even on the balcony.
The height of the table should be oriented to the physiological characteristics of the person who will work behind it.
Place accessories follows taking into account the main working hand of the owner.
Before starting the design of the workbench, you need to decide what it will be - portable or stationary.

The most suitable workbench dimensions for working with wood:

tabletop length - 2 m;
width - 70–100 cm;
table height from the floor - 80–90 cm.

Types of carpentry workbenches

If there are no serious functional requirements for a workbench, a desk converted to professional needs can be used for small jobs.

mobile workbench

This type of carpentry desktop is relevant in case of a lack of free space in the workshop. Its length is no more than a meter, and its width is 60–80 cm, and its weight usually does not exceed 30 kg. It is convenient to use a portable mobile workbench for processing small workpieces, minor repairs of joinery, woodcarving. Due to its compact dimensions, the mobile machine can be placed in any room: in the garage, in the country house or on the balcony. For even greater compactness, a folding design is often used.

Scheme for the manufacture of a mobile workbench

Stationary workbench

A full-fledged working facility with reference to a specific place, without the possibility of mobile movement during operation. Designed for processing workpieces of any weight and length (within reasonable limits). It's powerful reliable fixture, made taking into account the characteristics of the working space and the personal preferences of the master. Stationary machines are necessarily equipped with special clamps for fixing workpieces. They provide a place for fixing the tool and installing additional stops.

Composite carpentry workbench

Thanks to collapsible design on bolted connections, individual modules of the machine can be easily replaced during operation. The main disadvantage of this device is the complexity in manufacturing (compared to other models), which is largely offset by its variability in the process of use.

Selecting a project and drawing up a diagram

When drawing up a project, the main parameters that need to be taken into account are height, configuration and functional equipment.

Height. For comfortable long-term work, the height of the workbench should not be more than 90 cm. When determining this parameter, first of all, you should take into account your height (if the workbench is made for yourself). And also important is the type of carpentry work that is supposed to be performed most often, and those that require the most convenient conditions for their high-quality performance.

Configuration. If there are no restrictions on the working space, the optimal width is 80 cm, length is 2 m. When configuring the workbench, you need to take into account the presence of shelves, compartments, doors, drawers, their number and size.

Functional equipment. To hold workpieces, the carpenter's workbench must be equipped with two clamps. The front clamp is located on the left, the rear clamp is on the right end of the workbench. This clamp layout is right-handed. If the master has the main working hand left, the clamps are mirrored relative to the above option.

It is necessary to provide places for fixing electrical and hand tool, technological holes for stops and limiters. Lighting and outlets are best located on nearby walls and objects.

Necessary materials

When selecting material for each node of the workbench, you need to consider functional features and the loads to which it will be subjected.

In order for the workbench not to turn out to be too massive, light softwood is preferred as the material for making the frame:

Pine;
alder;
Linden.

Hardwood, as well as plywood of various thicknesses, is used to make countertops.

The frame for the workbench can be welded from metal square pipe or a corner of a suitable section, but most joiners prefer wood structures.

Making a simple table

As an example, we took the manufacture of a carpentry workbench with a table top 2 m long, 80 cm wide and 80 cm high. To make better use of time, you first need to glue the table top. While it is glued, you can prepare constituent parts frame and its subsequent assembly.

During the manufacturing process you will need:

miter circular saw;
drill;
electric jigsaw;
clamps.

Table top assembly

Type-setting (glued) shield made of hardwood (ash, oak, beech, hornbeam). The recommended table top thickness is 60 mm. It is most rational to use a planed beam with a section of 60x40 mm for its manufacture. After preparing the length of the timber, it must be glued together into a shield of the required width. To get a shield 80 cm wide, you need to prepare 20 bars 60x40 mm.

For high-quality gluing, the following factors must be taken into account:

The beam is strictly rectangular in cross section(not a rhombus or a parallelepiped).
The shield must be clamped with special clamps that are capable of providing sufficient clamping force.
Gluing is carried out on a flat plane, while deformation during compression must be excluded.

You can do without all of the above and glue the shield by successively compressing the bars together with self-tapping screws or even nails. But in this case, about no flat surface countertops are out of the question.

Plywood tabletop. Several sheets of plywood are glued together along the plane. The number of sheets to be glued depends on their thickness and on the planned thickness of the countertop. For high-quality gluing of plywood, a flat plane is required. The quality of the finished countertop depends on how even this plane is.

There are two options for gluing plywood at home:

With boards and clamps. Glue is applied to the plywood and compressed with clamps. For uniform compression, boards are placed under the clamps.
With planks and weights. Plywood pre-lubricated with glue is placed on a flat plane, boards are placed on top and pressed with a load.

Support manufacturing

The supporting legs of the desktop are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm. They look quite massive, but this is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the structure. The transverse frame parts are made of the same wood as the legs. For this, a beam with a section of 60x60 mm is enough.

To avoid deformations to which solid wood parts are subject large section, for the manufacture of supports it is better to use. It can be glued together from two or three blanks of a smaller section. For example, to make a beam with a section of 100x100 mm, you need to glue together three boards with a section of 105x35 mm along the plane. After gluing, you will get a blank 105x105 mm, where 5 mm is a margin for finishing.

To assemble the frame, use spike connections or dowels. This build option implies special equipment. Otherwise, the process will be unreasonably long. A simpler option is to use metal fasteners and fittings (bolts, screws, corners, self-tapping screws).

Frame size:

length - 180 cm;
width - 70 cm;
height - 74 cm.

The height is given taking into account the thickness of the tabletop (60 mm). The length and width of the frame ensures the presence of overhangs of the table top (10 cm per side from the ends, 5 cm per side in front and behind).

When assembling, the following blanks should be obtained:

Racks (legs) - 100x100 mm, 74 cm long.
Cross bars - 60x60x1600 mm (4 pcs.) And 60x60x500 mm (4 pcs.).

If you use spiked joints, then the length of the workpiece must be added to the length of the spike (recommended 60 mm), multiplied by 2.

Frame and table assembly

Before assembling, to the bottom of the tabletop along the edges, you need to attach transverse boards with a section of 100x60x800 mm and longitudinal 50x60x1800 mm. Cross boards are needed to prevent deformation of the countertop during operation. Longitudinal - for the subsequent equipment of the carpentry workbench with clamps.

To securely fix the longitudinal and transverse boards, glue should be used. If there is no confidence in the quality of the adhesive, they can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws or other metal fasteners.

If all dimensions are taken into account correctly, then the frame of the workbench will become clearly between the transverse and longitudinal boards from the bottom of the tabletop. Fasten the entire structure with bolts, through the transverse boards of the table top and supporting pillars(legs). To prevent the bolt heads from interfering, countersunk holes must be drilled under them.

Folding design

It is advisable to use a folding workbench when the amount of working space is limited and the mobility of moving the desktop during operation is necessary. In most cases, a carpentry portable workbench is equipped with a removable top and a folding frame.

The tabletop can be hinged against the wall, and the legs can be folded under it. When using this design, the length of the legs should be calculated in such a way that they do not interfere with each other when folded. That is, their length should be less than half the distance between them.

Similar carpentry workbenches are designed for processing small parts. Therefore, the structural elements of these tables are not made as massive as on stationary ones. For the manufacture of support posts, a beam of 100x40 mm, transverse 60x40 is sufficient.

Any board material (OSB, chipboard, plywood) can be used as a countertop material. If thickness board material not enough, the tabletop can be reinforced with a frame of 30x50 timber (the cross section of the timber is determined by the planned rigidity of the tabletop).

Assembly of a folding joiner's workbench is made on bolts. In order for the table to be quickly disassembled, it is advisable to use special wing nuts instead of ordinary nuts.

Not a single workshop is complete without a desktop, it is called a workbench. The concept of a workbench is much broader than just a table, as it must have a number of features that distinguish it from simple table and make it indispensable assistant in a workshop. How to make a simple, convenient and compact carpentry workbench with your own hands from wood will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

There are three main types of carpentry workbenches:

Stationary. The desktop is installed in a certain place, it is integrated into the interior of the workshop and is not supposed to be moved.
Folding. The work table is set in a certain place in the workshop, but it has several positions and can be easily transformed. For example, one position can be working, the second is folded (retracted), or the workbench can be transformed to perform various technological operations.
Mobile. In other words, it is a table on wheels. It can be easily moved to any comfortable spot in a workshop. As a rule, it can also be foldable, so it has the ability to transform to change operating states.

The design of the wooden workbench, which is discussed in this article, is a folding homemade workbench.

General description of the design of the workbench

This version of the workbench has the simplest design. It is attached to the wall on one side, has two support legs and can be folded (retracted) to a vertical position. In this way, this design well suited for rooms that have a limited area, as free space can be organized by transforming such a workbench.

A homemade workbench consists of the following basic elements:

Name	Purpose and description
table top	Table top
Frame	The supporting structure on which all other elements are based.
Reference element	Fastens tightly to the wall and is one of the supports of the work surface.
legs	Two supporting legs, structurally interconnected
Retainer	An element that is attached to the wall and serves to fix the folding workbench in the folded position

All these elements are made of solid wood (pine) and plywood.

Preparation for production

Before you start making a folding workbench with your own hands, you need to plan and prepare everything necessary tools and materials.

Tools and machines

In the production process, the following tools and fixtures will be required:

or ;
End saw;
Drill or ;
Level;
Hand tools (screwdriver, hammer, etc.).

Materials and accessories

During the production process, you will need the following materials and accessories:

thickness 15-30mm (as an option to apply or as a last resort);
Timber (pine) 80x40;
Piano loop;
M10 bolts with nuts and washers (as an option, you can use a stud);
Self-tapping screws.

The process of making a carpentry workbench with your own hands

Let's divide the whole production process into a number of simple technological operations.

Countertop manufacturing

A sheet of plywood will be used to make the countertop. It makes no sense to give dimensions, since in each case the dimensions must be selected individually for the needs of the master, the geometry of the room and the work that is planned to be performed at this workplace. Therefore, we will not give dimensions in this article - the general idea and concept should be clear from the photo and video.

Surface evenness. If the countertop shows signs of deformation and does not have a flat surface, then working on such a homemade workbench will be difficult, to say the least;
Mechanical strength. The tabletop must be durable, that is, have greater resistance to mechanical stress. Since rather massive objects (machines or large-sized workpieces) can be installed on the desktop, the tabletop must withstand such loads and not deform during operation.
Surface strength. Surface resistance to external mechanical influences. So on the desktop are executed various works associated with the processing of materials, painting, etc., then the presence of a protective layer on the countertop will be an advantage and will save the surface from wear.

At this stage, the required dimensions of the future countertop are marked and trimmed along the outlined contours.

Frame - the basis of the future homemade workbench

The frame is the main load-bearing element of a workbench made of wood. It must be strong, as all the load will fall on it. We recommend making it from an array, for example, a bar 40x80mm.

The most common wood and less expensive is pine, so it is quite suitable, however, if you make the base and a denser material, such as beech, birch or oak, then the strength will increase significantly, although such costs are not justified.

The frame has a "U-shaped" shape. As shown in the workbench photo below.

To fasten the bars together, you can use different kinds fasteners, but the most simple and universal way- this is a fastening on self-tapping screws at the end. V this example applied method hidden fastening self-tapping screws.

Yes, with this option, the screws are hidden and they are not visible, but this option is not recommended, since the strength of such a connection is not great. We suggest using it as fastening with self-tapping screws in the end, as well as using additional metal corners installed inside the corner and also on self-tapping screws. In this case, the strength will be sufficient.

The fastening of the frame to the tabletop in this example is also carried out with self-tapping screws that enter “into the edge” (at an angle) of the frame and then into the tabletop. The advantage of this fastening is the simplicity and concealment of self-tapping screws. Nevertheless, the quality of the connection suffers here, since there is a possibility of splitting the edge of the frame. It is still recommended to use one of the three mounting methods described below:

Through holes are made in the countertop and self-tapping screws pass through the countertop into the frame. With this option, there will be the maximum structural strength. The disadvantage is obvious - the caps of the screws will be visible on the countertop, although, of course, they can be easily drowned and hidden "flush".
WITH inner corner between the tabletop and the frame, several (6-9 pieces) corners are installed, which are mounted on self-tapping screws. The top surface of the countertop will not suffer and the view will be neat. However, mounting on self-tapping screws that do not go through the countertop is not so reliable. Below is a drawing of an example of using an inner corner.

Installation of the support element

The supporting element is a simple bar of the same section as the bars used for the frame (80x40mm), which must be attached to the wall and in the future it will be the main fulcrum of the future homemade locksmith workbench. The installation of the support element depends on the material of the wall to which we are attaching. If the wall is wooden, then it is difficult to offer something better than “planting” on self-tapping screws. If the wall is brick or concrete, then you can use dowels or lay anchors, etc. Of course, before installation, we will use the level for leveling.

The height must be selected based on the technological tasks for which this workbench is created. However, it should be noted that according to GOST 13025.3-85 standard height it is considered 720-780 mm from the floor level. As a rule, office furniture has a height of 750 mm.

The fastening of the frame with the worktop to the supporting element can be done different ways. The easiest is to use a roll loop. This is what was done in our case (see photo).

In addition to the piano loop, you can use various options mobile connections - simple door hinges, "frogs", furniture hinges etc. It is important to note that their number must be sufficient to withstand the loads that are planned for our folding workbench, made by hand.

Installing the legs

In addition to the supporting element, our homemade locksmith workbench made of wood will rest on a couple more legs. They need to be made foldable so that in the folded position they fold easily and do not stick out. To do this, they need to be bolted to the frame.

Alternatively, in addition to the bolt, you can use a piece from the stud, fastening it with nuts on both sides. In order not to make a big variety in the list of materials used, the legs can be made from the same bar 80x40mm. In order for the legs to fold, they must have roundings on one side, which are easiest to do with a jigsaw.

Set the axis of rotation of the legs. It is quite clear that if you just tighten the bot, then it will press the leg against the frame and its further rotation will be difficult, so you need to install a couple of washers between the leg and the frame. Or maybe not a couple, but 3 or 4 for better rotation, since when the bolt is tightened, the washers will sink into soft wood and to ensure the gap just need a third of the washer.

Thus, a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench can be made. The design is simple and can and should be modernized by each master for himself, for his workshop, for his technological operations, but this is only the basis that can serve as an idea for the further development of technical thought.

Video

This carpentry workbench has a solid frame, a solid work surface and plenty of storage space. convenient storage tools and fixtures. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will gradually add various useful additions.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

Hacksaw.
Electroplaner.
The saw is circular.
Sanding machine.
Drill and drills.
Clamps.
Screwdriver.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Brush.

Carpenter's workbench frame

Take a flat pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The considered carpentry workbench is designed for comfortable work the master is 170–180 cm tall. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

Name	Finished dimensions, mm	Material	Quantity
Name		Material	Quantity
leg detail
bottom spacer
Top spacer
cross prog
Cover crossbar
Longitudinal proleg
Longitudinal side
Bottom shelf
Countertop spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

Saw all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of spacers: short ones are more convenient to cut already planed, and long ones should be sawn off later “in place”.

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade, and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure it is perpendicular saw blade. Spread the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the details and finish them sandpaper medium grit.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces of dust, apply glue to the small prong and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the rest of the legs of the carpentry workbench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench is moved.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal prongs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and fix with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the carpentry workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Gather bottom harness workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

cut out sheet material 16 mm thick lower shelf and fix it on the bars

Workbench for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the plates in two layers and get a countertop with a thickness of 32–40 mm.

Drawing and arrangement of the cover of the workbench: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (solid fiberboard); 3- carrier plate(chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For countertops, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the cover of the carpentry workbench turned out to be 670x1940 mm in size.

Place narrow slabs closer to back wall and towards the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in top layer countertops. Glue the cut blanks.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges by hand circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Cut the slats for the edge trims. Saw off 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Put a piece of fiberboard on top of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench cover. While holding the plank with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the remaining pads. Process the planks with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the board so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of the recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces of dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with wood stain. Lay the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double-sided tape. Install a carpenter's vise on the workbench.

Drawers for storing tools in the carpenter's table

When filling the space under the cover of the carpentry workbench, use the modular principle. Individual blocks are easier to make and more convenient to later change when space is needed for a new tool. There will be a certain overspending of material, but the mass of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - full extension drawer; 2 - roomy plywood box; 3 - container made of chipboard; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for a portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Choose boxes that are suitable in size from unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.

Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the spikes and lugs from the glue.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting brackets to accurately assemble right angles.

When the glue dries, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for ease of use.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Fasten the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, placing props under it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten self-tapping screws. Fasten the chipboard to the top rails and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front pads on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Fasten the remaining overlays - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the workbench to increase the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the case, take a chipboard 16 mm thick and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Housing of the middle module: 1 - frame diagram; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame with screws and install close to the right block.

Prepare the details for the drawer.

Drawings of the elements of the box: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

With a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. Move the rip fence 2 mm and make a trial cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install rails on the bottom to protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a more “smooth” ride.

Fasten the front panel with screws and put the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The arrangement of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The drawer placed on roller guides is manufactured taking into account the mounting clearance, so its width will be less inner size housings by 26 mm (for common rails with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the housing, fasten the restrictive wooden slats and metal guides.

Scheme of mounting guides on the walls of the case.

Fasten finished module under the cover of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unsnap the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the pieces to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and a gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and top panel frame.

Pull out the middle rails as far as they will go.

Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the box "went" tight, take it out and try again.

Put the front cover in place.

How to make a drawer for a carpentry workbench from plywood

Saw the blanks of the box body from 10 mm plywood, and for the bottom take a sheet 5 mm thick.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - back insert; 3 - side wall; 4 - front insert.

Process the blanks with a grinder.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw the parts of the front and back walls with screws.

Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.

Assemble the structure using corners and clamps.

Fasten the parts with screws, drilling pilot holes.

Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Cover finishing composition boxes and cut ends of particle boards.

Power up your DIY workbench and start filling containers with tools.

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw the vise, and put tools in boxes.

I was able to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for myself.

Metal parts are marked in blue, wooden parts are in yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm metal sheet. The frame of the workbench will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm boards. From the 40x4 strip, guides for attaching the side panels will be made. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and mounted on a powerful skid.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Diky to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, in order not to stretch it out for the whole day, we went to the metal depot.

The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army pea jacket, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grubby rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main parts of the frame took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick fetid sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for a homemade countertop is welded.

The crossbars of the base for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here's a little sketch of what it looks like:

In the meantime, scalded the instrument panel brackets.

Overlays from 4mm strip reinforced loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

Brackets give additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a 2200x750 sheet.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired size.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it's a little expensive for one.

I made boxes from 15mm plywood. Assembled with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It came out strong just the way I like it.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The sled was fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting in food processor 3 liter V8 car engine. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. What's more, it's so secure.

Now I'm thinking about different options facades.

This completes the welding phase. Ahead is a carpenter and a painter. Still in a trifle locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wah, what nice paint I swear on mom! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

Covered the tabletop edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws 4.0x35. I used 60 screws in total.

I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay denser.

Watered about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion on its own.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I of fire retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow you to cook metal directly on the surface of the workbench. All the same, if the boards do not catch fire, they will char. To organize a welding post, I plan to weld a removable grate that will reliably protect the surface of the countertop from thermal exposure.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm metal sheet.

Covered the countertop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The leaf attracted wooden base rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.

Shields of 10mm plywood closed the extra openings in the frame of the workbench.
Pictured is the paint shop.

Registered on the tabletop permanent residents - grinder and vise. On a hefty tabletop, they are lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on a countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a strong protective film and be easy to renew if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy chair with adjustable height?

P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the manufacturing process for everything presented on the links.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin uniform layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if varnished. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the transducer and dries again, hiding all old damage.

From the big one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or solid furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the countertop).

Well, actually, for the sake of what ...

Test passed

Class! No more huddling with hand power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where to put them - all in one place and at hand.

Installed the instrument panel. Solid, from 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals to hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Facades for drawers made from the remnants of the 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. Worktop area 1.65 square meters, instrument panel area 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost the same cubic meter. A feature of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm metal sheet is not afraid of mechanical damage. Roomy shelves, drawers and panel allow you to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade workbench of dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will work on it.

P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put a bullet in the project a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (with a screwdriver, of course).

In time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a paper towel holder, and, well, additional lighting. Fortunately, on two square meters there is where to turn around. I made an awesome piece. Satisfied like an elephant.

Firstly, the small vise could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, more powerful vices are installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? Hope they last me the same. In general, a good vise is the pride of the master.

The photo shows that the table top does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the table at all. Therefore, when attaching a vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. I thought so. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would be better to make them smaller. I will invent some organizers inside them.

The rest turned out great. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. On a large tabletop there is also where to decompose.

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