How to drill chipboard without chips than cut hole in plywood? What are the drills for the manufacture of furniture do it yourself? How to drill laminated chipboard

In construction and finishing works, the drilling of the holes takes up a non-primary, but quite a significant role. And only at first glance it seems that drove just - jim on the drill button and that's it. Each material requires the choice of a suitable drill, the necessary revolutions and pressure on the drill, the method of cooling the drill and drainage chips - all this with experience is literally intuitive. And the beginners will help our advice.

To begin with, we define can the existing drill cope with those holesthat you want to drill. The determining parameter is the power of the drill. An ordinary household drill with a capacity of 500-600 W copies with holes up to 10 mm in steel and up to 25 mm in the tree. Impact drill The same power can drill a hole up to 13 mm in concrete or brick. If your work requires a greater, then the drill to choose must be more powerful.

The choice of tools and drilling modes strongly depends on the material to be drilled and the diameter of the opening.

1. How to drill a tree, fane, fiberboard?

With the drilling of small holes in soft Materials There are no special problems with newcomers. It is not necessary to put pressure on the drill very much, turnover should be slightly higher than the average - the hole is cleaned. Too high revs can lead to the fact that the friction drill will grow up, the tree will begin to burn. it good way Get the fire, but the item will be corrupted.

For holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm, you can use conventional spiral drills for metal. When drilling in deep holes in the tree, especially in resinous rocks, the drill must be more often (through every drilled 10-15 mm) hire and clean the spiral grooves from chips. It is necessary to do it carefully not to burn about the hot end of the drill.

When drilling very small holes (up to 1.5-2 mm), any careless movement of the drill, the slightest skew drives the drill breakdown. Drills less than 1 mm in general can be broken by weight of the drill, setting the drill to the drilling point. So as not to translate such drills with packs keep in mind that tree, dvp, simple Faneru It is quite possible to drill a piece stationery clips or nail. The end of the "tool" is biled with rake at an angle - and a tolerable drill is obtained. The drilling point is needed to smoothly.

Special spiral drills for wood at first sight remind drills for metal, but the cutting part of them is sharpened differently (with the edge of the center and edges), and the grooves are wider. This allows you to make cleaner holes and improves chip off. The diameter of such drills from 3 to 50 mm.

Drill big diameter Often have a hexagonal shank, which prevents scrolling the drill in the cartridge. Under the hexagonal shank there are also extension supplements for the drilling by conventional short drills of deep holes.

Turns when drilling are chosen based on the diameter of the drill and hardness of the tree. Holes up to 15 mm can be drilled by 1400-1600 rpm, 15-25 mm - per 1000-1200 rpm, 25-50 mm - 500-600 rpm. For solid wood, turnover wood should be reduced by 1.5-2 times.

For drilling in a tree of holes from 10 to 60 mm produced feathery drills. Outwardly, they resemble a blade with edge in the center.

Such feathered drills of large diameters much cheaperthan spiral, there is their main advantage. Drilling deep holes with feather drills are not very convenient. The drill does not throw out the chips, it has to withdraw and clean the hole manually. Turns when drilling can be kept higher. For holes up to 25 mm - up to 2000 rpm, over 25 mm - 1500 rpm. For solid wood, turnover should be reduced by 1.5 times.

For drilling large and deep holes (for example, holes for wires and pipes in wooden carrier beams) Using drills of Levis. Such a drill looks like a drill with a screw at the end.

The wide groove with a small angle of inclination effectively assigns chips. Levis drills are produced by a diameter of 10 to 50 mm. Holes up to 15 mm drilled by 1500 rpm, 15-25 mm - per 1000 rpm, 25-50 mm - 500 rpm. For solid wood, turns are reduced twice.

For special types of woodwork, the forstner drills, milling drills, crowns and ring saws are also used.

2. How to drill chipboard and laminate

The drilling of chipboard and laminate in general does not differ from the drilling of the tree. Some complexity may arise due to the heterogeneity of the chipboard - because of this it is difficult to start drilling exactly in the intended place. To avoid this first glow hole shill and drill with a drill with a diameter of 2-3 mm. Then drill the drill of the desired diameter.

Laminate is easily drilled like conventional drills on wood and crowns of any diameter. When drilling a laminated chipboard for furniture conveniently used specialized tool. For example, the holes for confirmates (special self-tapping screws for furniture assembly) are drilled by a special drill with three cutting parts. This allows you to simultaneously drill the attached part and make the guide hole for the threaded part in the main part.

3. How to properly drill plastic and organic glass

Plastic I. organic glass (polycarbonate, plexiglass), unlike wood, have a homogeneous structure without fibers, but it is easy to melt. In this case, it is possible "Furious" and breakdown drill.

Holes of small diameters (up to 10 mm) can be drilled by conventional drills for metal on small circulation (up to 500 rpm). The location of the drilling is desirable to "lump" the grinding nail. The drill must often withdraw and cool in water.

Larger diameter holes or complex form The easiest way to drill on the contour of the 2-3 mm drill, cut the jumper by the jumper or his blade and process edges with a file.

4. How to drill brick and concrete?

Concrete and brick regular drill For metal, drilling will not work. Or succeed, but very long. Material in this case will play a role grinding stone And just blows the drill. Holes in brick and concrete drilled (or rather - drill) with shock drill or perforator. These tools not only rotate the drill, but also hit it.

In the shock drills, the blow is mechanical. The details of this mechanism are rapidly wear out, so drilling with a blow to the shock drill - the auxiliary mode and they are better not to abuse. In perforators, the blow is carried out by an electromagnetic or electropneumatic mechanism, it can work hundreds of times longer. Yes, and the blow of the puncher is much higher, with good drill Concrete is drilled by a perforator not worse than solid wood.

Before drilling the wall, it is necessary to check whether there is no pipes in it, heating or electric wires. With pipes, it is usually all clear, but the presence of electrical wiring is better to check the special device or, in the extreme case, the simplest homemade crawler of a hidden leash.

For drilling brick and concrete use drills with carbide tips. According to tradition, they are often called "victorious" drills, although other materials are increasingly used for the manufacture of tips, for example. Wolfram carbide.

Please note that drills for drills and pefrorators have different shanks. And if the drill (drill) for the perforator with the SDS-Plus shank can still be kept into the cartridge drill, then the perforator drill with a simple cylindrical shank will not be twisted.

For drilling brick or concrete A shock drill is chosen by the average turnover. At high speeds, the drill will overheat and fail, on low drilling will be inefficient. The drill must be very strongly pressing, because the blowing energy depends on the strength of the press, and periodically displays a drill for cooling.

When drilling, the rotation perforator is quite low (800-1000 rpm) and it makes no sense to put things on the tool - The impact energy is determined only by the mechanism of the perforator. It is enough so that the drill does not bounce on the concrete (5-6 kg).

Holes under the dowel make 10 mm deeper than the length of the dowel. It will save from problems if a few concrete or brick dust remains in the opening.

5. How to properly drill glass, porcelain, ceramic tiles?

Glass and porcelain have high hardness and fragility. Ordinary drill these materials simply does not take - slides over the surface, and when drilling with a blow, the product splits. Therefore, the drilling of glass and porcelain is actually grinding with a special drill for glass. The glass in this case is simply turning into fine glass dust.

Looks like a small sharp sharpened blade. The blade is made of solid metal and can have one or two cutting edges.

Also there are drills with two mutually perpendicular blades resembling a crusade. This drill four cutting edges. Drill S. large quantity Cutting edges are more expensive, but also drilled faster. Diameter of drill-paddes for glass from 3 to 12 mm. Larger diameter holes (100 mm) are drilled by diamond tubular or sliding drills.

The drilling of glass and porcelain is carried out on low revs - up to 300 rpm, without hitting, only clockwise. Mandatory use of a lubricant-coolant. The best results gives the use rosifold solution in turpidar (1: 2-1: 3) or camfar in Skipidar (3: 4). You can also use silicate paper glue. In the extreme case, you can use pure turpentine and even water. So that the fluid does not spread, a side of a plasticine is made around the drilling site. As glass dust contaminated (clouding), the fluid is replaced with fresh.

To avoid chips at the exit, the glass is drilled on both sides. First on one side - by 0.7-0.8 thickness, then on the other. In order to drill a hole exactly in the appointed location, you can outline the center of the hole with a diamond glass cutter.

Ceramic tile drill the glass drill. The most difficult at the same time - to start drilling exactly in the right place. Here, too, you can use the diamond glass cutter and outline the point on the glaze. Experienced masters Install the drill to the point of drilling and is pressed strongly on it. This is enough to destroy a small area of \u200b\u200bglaze to fix the drill. When drilling a tile, already fixed on the wall, it is important to stop and not start drilling the wall material itself. This can be very quickly ruined. Therefore, after passing the tiles, the drill changes and continue the drilling more suitable for the wall tool.

Solid glaze layer on ceramic tiles sufficiently thin, which allows drill small holes with drills with carbide plates designed for brick and concrete. To do this, use a new, well sharpened drill. And here the most important thing is to start drilling in the right place. The drill is so strive to slip away.

If you are not sure about the hardness of your hands, you can go to a small trick - to glue a piece of the leukoplasty in the right place. If there are a lot of holes, it is better to make a conductor. To do this, in a wooden paler, a thickness of 40-50 mm drove a hole for the rod drill. On the one hand, the hole is drilled so that a carbide plate fit into it at the end of the drill. From the bottom on the bar, you can stick a few pieces of fine rubber - this will prevent the slide.

In this case, without assistant can not do. At first, the drill is set to a drilling point, lower a bar, and the assistant holds it tightly in place. After that, the drilling is started - the squaling is excluded.

If the holes made are similar to bullet holes, like in a cinecomer, read these tips to avoid chagrins in further work.

1. Correct drill selection

Ordinary spiral drills are inexpensive. They are considered universal and are intended for drilling wood, metal and plastic. As a rule, their tips are sharpening a gender of 118 ° for most tasks.

But due to such a dull angle, the drill can be deviated to the side at the beginning and to pull the fibers of the wood at the outlet, so leave such drills for plastic and metal, as well as for holes with a diameter of less than 3 mm in the wood (in thin drills, these shortcomings are expressed weaker). Alya Holes with a diameter of 3 to 13 mm Choose drills with central edges designed specifically for wood. The edge of such a drill does not get away to him in the direction at the beginning of drilling, and the side cutting protrusions (the so-called covers) contribute to the decrease in chipping.

To make holes with a diameter of more than 13 mm, take the drills of the forster. Like drills with the central edge, they have in the middle of the guide tip and cut very clean. Forster drills with a gear cutting rim work much more aggressive, but the result of their work is not worse. Using such drills, it is necessary to reduce the supply and securely fix the workpiece by clamps.

2. Contain the blank on the reverse side

Regardless of the type of drill, when the metal passes through the wood through, no supported wood fibers on the back side of the workpiece are rushed, and chips are formed at the output. Therefore, we should not forget to rest in the opposite direction. Materials cutting

boards. Substand trim supports fibers at the drill outlet and prevents the sharp increase in the feed at the end. Making holes on drilling machine, just put the trim under the workpiece, and when using the electric drift, fix it with clamps. If at the beginning of the drilling of the fiber around the hole, small chips are raised or formed, cover with a greasy tape on the surface, and then place the center and proceed to drill.

3. Drill on both sides

If the location of the opening makes it difficult to install a retaining trimming (for example, when drilling holes for wires in back wall The cabinet) will help the counterfeit drilling method when the hole is made from opposite sides so that there are no chips on the edges.

To make neat holes different diametersyou need all three varieties of drills - Spiral, with central edge and forstner.

Make a pass-through hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, which will guide the forster drill or drill with the central edge to the middle of the parts thickness.

Continue the drilling of S. back side, inserting the tip of the drill to the guide hole again. Two big holes must meet in the middle.

On a note:

Milling without chip

At the outlet of the material of the tooth saw Disc Or cutters often forms chips - at wood, plywood or chipboard. The most common way to combat this phenomenon is to make the cutting tooth come out of the material inside the groove. For example, if you move the workpiece along the rotation of the disk. But choose the grooves to the full depth in this way it is categorically impossible. The energy of the rotating cutter is enough to snatch the workpiece from the hands. After that, it will fly at a huge speed in the direction of rotation. The consequences may be the most unpredictable!

But nevertheless, this principle is used in some machines for cutting Ledp.. Only in them the disk, which rotates along the supply of the material, makes only a shallow incision. When it is formed, the impact of the sub-cut disk on the part is slightly, so the work is safe. Following the subsidement it is the main working disk, rotating, as it should be to meet the details. The disk cuts the material purely, without chipping, since the selected shallow groove is used (the cutting tooth comes out of the material inside the groove). I use this principle in my work. For those who decide to try my method, I want to remind you that the milling machine installed in the table is a tool of increased danger. And when working with it, it is necessary to strictly implement the safety regulations - use protective screens and fitness and not allow the recommended billet feed rate and the frequency of rotation of the cutter. The table should be free from foreign objects and is well lit.

1. If you put a flash mill on the mill and skip the workpiece, the chips will necessarily be!

2. Therefore, first I fix the lining of plywood to the guide milling tableSo that the cutter performs only 2 mm per surface of the lining. And I skip the details in the direction of rotation of the cutter. It turns out a shallow groove without chips.

3. Then I remove the lining - now the cutter appears on a given depth. And I skip the blanks, as it should be, towards the rotating milling mill.

4. No chips!

Eco-friendly wood plates are now in fashion. Growing demand by frame house building allowed to saturate the market new for Russia oriented chipboard (OSP 3). For example, now there is a panel of OSP 3, like other "advanced" lumber - no longer a problem.

A chipboard continues to find its consumer for one simple reason - because of its cheapness. It is quite suitable for utility rooms and making household items. If you buy a sheet of chipboard in bulk, then you can save a lot of money. What are the trick processing chipboard?

The first action to which this material is subjected - sawing.

Since the chipboard is a glued chips, then a problem arises with a cut of this shavings when cutting. Therefore, you need to use a saw with might with small teeth and low wiring. The saw should be kept under a very small angle to the surface, otherwise the edge chances are possible, which are not so easy to be divided. The stroke of the saw should also be small.

Hole in chipboard

It should not put pressure on the saw. Do not hurry - stock patience. As an additional insurance, you can use a wide adhesive tape, in the middle of which should be cut. This is especially important for coated plates, for example, lacquered. In this case, it is better to even cut the coating sharp knife. Of course, if you do not care about the quality of the edge processing, you can cut the chipboard as you like.

Another action is drilling.

The Council is: first to make a hole in the chipboard with a drill with a diameter of three mm less than necessary without special precautions. Then make the same with the desired drill that will go along the path of the first. Since when drilling, the material will easily crumble, then it is necessary to strictly follow proper position Drills not to get a funnel. If it is undesirable, this side is unwanted, then you need to pre-drill on a small depth of one side, then make the through hole on the other. Another option to avoid chips - put under the drilled Chipboard plate Other. The drill must be with acute edge And it is desirable to drill at a fairly high speed. For through holes, the metal drill is preferable than on wood. It should not be put on the drill at the end. There are special confirmable drills for Evrovintage. They simultaneously form and cone to shut down the screw cap. Special skill requires the drilling of deaf holes.

Final strokes

The refinement of the edges of the chipboard is made using a planer, a rashpil and a file. Make a tool must be from the outer edge of the plate to the internal so as not to add the chances. Very small roughness can be modified and skin.

When working S. various types Woods always need to know detailed variations of its processing. Before cutting the circle in plywood, you need to know all the options, because it is often necessary to adapt to the situation. There are many options for performing such a venture, and they differ dramatically.

In order to cut a circle of plywood can be used as professional toolsand remedies.

Electrical appliances or hand tools?

Tools and materials:

• drill;
• electrolovik;
• lobzik manual;
• milling machine;
• nails;
• rope;
• chisel;
• a hammer;
• stationery knife;
• sandpaper;
• compass.

Determining the diameter of the future circle, it is necessary to consider the dimensions of the working cutter.

The most popular option among all is an electric lobby. This tool allows you to cut not only circles, but any other geometric figures. The only minus it lies in the need to form additional grooves in places of turns (angles), but when creating a circle, it is imperceptible. It is very important to choose the chopper, because They are 3 types: River on the left, River on the right, River from 2 sides. After the cloth is selected, cut the circle of any size.

Robzik ordinary manual.

Before cutting a circle from plywood using this tool, you need to make sure that the workflow is available. The main difficulty is a limitation (usually up to 30 cm) due to the physical structure, i.e. In deep places it will not work. At the beginning of working activity, not from the edge, but directly from the center, the sawo is refilled in the latter.

Milling machine. Quite convenient option, but requiring a rigid coupling with a surface, for which the mains inspection is screwed into the center of the circle. The circle is made any diameter, and very quickly. Sometimes there is not enough work handle, because of what you have to do all sorts of improvised brackets, in the role of which the channel, profile, bar, board, and even a rope can perform, but it is much more convenient on the rigid coupling. This tool makes a fairly wide hole, so before you start work, you need to carefully carry out the factor of the future design.

It is necessary to choose only sharp nails, and the edges of the resulting billet should be treated with large sandpaper.

Nails. A very popular way in cases where the work should be performed "yesterday", and the tools will not be soon. It is worth noting it to note that the work as a result is rather rude, so it is used in the most extreme case. It will take only the hammer, 2 nails and rope. One nail is wounded in the center of the hole, and the other is stretched on the rope on the required length (radius), after which the circle is carried out with solid movement. Such circles with pressure continue until the circle is finally cut. At the very end, the nail is removed from the hole, turns over and carefully the hammer is rummaged to achieve a more accurate seam.

The chisel and the stationery knife. Everything is much simpler, because you first need to draw a circle (pencil) circle, after which this circle will be burned several times a stationery knife under pressure.

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A feature of the stroke is not a knife, but a sheet of plywood, so as not to break the metal, and such an action is repeated from 2 sides. Then the chisel is applied to the prepared seam and the non-strokes are brought to the opposite seam (2-3 of the strike usually). At the very end, the hammer is knocked out a circle, as in the embodiment with nails.

Preparation and completion of work

Before cutting the circle in a plywood with your own hands, you need to drill holes for the tool. It is important to choose a location of drilling, because In one case, the carved circle itself is needed, and in the other - the outer side. A cautious hole is made on a 5-8 mm away from the edge in the part that will go to the scrap, then the tool is applied, and you can start working. In case of milling machine The hole is made on the way tool in the circle, because It will be difficult to set it later.

After the cutout is ready, you need to process it using coarse sandpaper.

At this stage, the quality of the working tool is checked, because With good sharpening and successful work Skols will not.

But do not disappear and if available, because Everything can be compensated by subsequent finishes.

Hole in chipboard

Hole in chipboard.

In the manufacture of furniture with your own hands, the operation on drilling holes in the details occupies probably the following place after their sawing. Technologically drilling holes in the chipboard is not much different from the drilling of other materials used in furniture manufacturingSo all the methods of manufacture of holes described in this article are also applicable to the Fiberboard, wood and other materials. It is characterized by a qualitatively performed hole three main indicators - the absence of chips at the inlet of the drill into the workpiece, a clean cut inside the hole, the absence of chips at the output of the drill from the workpiece.

The first question that occurs when necessary to perform a hole in the chipboard - what? And the next question will be - how? To get the correct answer to these questions, let us divide the holes in the diameter into three types, to each of them we will select the tool and consider the features of their manufacture.

• Holes of small diameter from 2 to 12 millimeters is best drilled by conventional tree drills.
• The holes of the middle diameter from 10 to 50 millimeters are performed by special drills, such as the first drill or forstner drill.
• Large diameter holes from 40 to 200 millimeters are drilled by special cutters or adjustable drill (Ballerinka).

To the holes of the larger diameter in the details of the furniture, the term drilling is not expensive to use and, accordingly, the tool must be selected like electric jigsika or manual milling.

Holes in a small diameter chipboard from 2 to 12 mm.

For drilling holes of a small diameter to chipboard and other materials containing materials there are special drills. The peculiarity of the data is drilled for drilling wood lies in the method of their sharpening.

Drilling holes in chipboard

A tree drill has a form of a trident, where the middle part serves to center the drill, and the side cut the material. The photos show the results of drilling holes on the left drill on the tree and on the right conventional drill.

When drilling through holes, the drill bits the outer layer of chipboard, so it is necessary to put the drill from the hole from the hole of the unnecessary chipboard to prevent chips. On the photo on the left, the result of drilling hole in the chipboard without lining, and to the right with the lining.

So we found out that for right drilling Holes in the chipboard it is necessary to use the drill on the tree and at the output of the drill from the workpiece use the lining.

Holes in the particle diameter of 10 to 50 mm.

For drilling through holes in the middle diameter chipboard, first drills are used (in the Pyro's commonarody) and in cases where it is necessary to obtain a non-through hole (for example, for the installation of loops) use the forstner drill. The first drill as well as the tree drill has sharpening in the form of a trident and therefore the technology drilling holes in the chipboard is similar. Also, do not forget to put a piece of chipboard at the outlet of the drill from the hole.

The forster drill also as the previous samples has sharpening in the form of a trident, but the cutting parts are not so long due to which it turns out to drill a hole in the chipboard with a relatively smooth bottom.

Holes in chipboard of large diameter from 40 to 250 mm.

For drilling B. Chipper holes Big diameter for sale is offered two main tools. The first option - the ring saw it the same crown.

Both instruments are perfectly coping with their duties and easily make large holes in chipboard, plywood and other materials. Of the cons of their use, it is worth noting the quality of the resulting holes. The number of chips and the quality of the cut limits their use when working with facades and other parts of furniture that will be in view.

Additive is the drilling of holes in furniture details. Among the main production operations - sawing, applying edges and additives - the last most time-consuming, and the complexity of the drilling of parts for the same product may differ several times depending on the design qualification.

In order to order an additive in the production of chipboard, the kit must be sent to us on email [Email Protected] The correctly completed form-order order of the DSC details (see the section "Price lists, forms") and drawings of parts - see detailed information below.

Video: How the additive is made

Addition system 32.

Furniture machines I. furniture fittings Accordingly, it is arranged that the distance between the holes located on one straight is divided by 32 mm. Moreover, both in the width and in length and in the end items. This standard is called "System 32".

According to this international Standard The dimensions of furniture are calculated based on the convenience of drilling. Economy class furniture, which is sold in network stores, is designed by system 32.

Highlights of the system 32:

1. The inter-center distances between the holes are divided by 32 mm - according to this rule they are manufactured as drilling machines (the distance between adjacent drills is exactly 32 mm) and accessories (the distance between the attachments of the handles, the guide boxes, the fasteners of the loops, etc.)
2. The design of the details is that there are no "right" and "left" parts - they are interchangeable.
3. An indentation from the front side of the part to the first hole is 37 mm, the following are multiple 32 mm.
4. The main hole is a diameter of 5mm in the plane of the part.

For the manufacture of furniture by individual project We offer the following types of holes:

	Type of holes	Units	Cost, rubles
Holes in the Plane Details
1.	Diameter 5 mm Depth 13 mm (D5X13) - for police holders, stocks of eccentrics, hinge sleets, etc.	pC.	25
2.	Diameter 8 mm Through (D8) - for confirmation (evrovints)	pC.	25
3.	Diameter 8 mm Depth 13 mm (D8X13) - For the waders, Futorto, etc.	pC.	25
4.	Diameter 15 mm Depth 13 mm (D15x13) from the edge of the part to the center of the hole 34 mm - For eccentrics with long rod	pC.	25
5.	Diameter 20 mm Depth 13 mm (D20X13) from the edge of the part to the center of the hole 9.5 mm - For eccentrics with a short rod (so-called reinforced)	pC.	25
6.	The diameter of 35mm depth is 12 mm (D35X12) from the edge of the part to the center of the opening of 22.5 mm - for loops with a cup of 35 mm. IMPORTANT: If the sketch does not indicate the depth of the hole, we consider it equal to 12 mm	pC.	55
Holes in the end details
7.	Diameter 5 mm Depth 34 mm (D5X34) - for confirmation 50mm long	pC.	25
8.	The diameter of 8 mm depth is 24 mm (D8X24) - for the sewage of 8x30 mm	pC	25
9.	The diameter of 8 mm depth is 34 mm (D8X34) - for the long stock of the eccentric	pC.	25
Additional holes in the detail plane
	Diameter 5 mm Through (D5) - Fastening the handles, intersection screeds	pC.	37
	Diameter 37 mm Depth 13.5 mm (D37X13,5)	pC.	75
	Diameter 60 mm Through (D60) - for cable channels	pC.	60
	Diameter 50 mm depth 12 mm (D50X12) - for mortise handles	pC.	60

Please note that:

1. The inter-center distance via width must be multiple of 32 mm, the value of the retreat from the edge of the part is to your discretion.
2. Sizes on the sketches include the edge and are indicated from one basic side.
3. On the sketches, the part number is specified in accordance with the blank.
4. The font size and the size of the sketch should be so that everything, especially the dimensions and dimensional lines, was clearly visible when printing on the A4 sheet.
5. For shelves with eccentrics - the same distance from the front and rear edges of the shelves to the center of the front and rear eccentric.
6. The cost of drilling holes for eccentric with a long rod is much higher than the cost of eccentric holes with a short rod (so-called "reinforced"), because Holes more.
7. Do not specify the edges by multi-colored lines - at b / b printing, they are not visible, the drawing background should be white.
8. No need to clog the drawings by repeated sizes.
9. Dimensions should be rounded to an integer, for example, instead of 93.45 mm - indicate 93 mm.

As our experience shows - the most terrible drawings - from the base-worker and autocardic base.

The holes of the small diameter (up to 10-12 mm) in the tree and the chipboard are twisted most often by conventional drills for metal. They completely successfully cope with their task. But if each millimeter is important for the position of the opening, then you need to use special drills.

The metal drill at the entrance to the wood can be a little distance to the side, even if at the place of the future hole is made of deepening seer.

In general, the drilling of wood can be carried out even by the usual nail or a piece of wire, which has an end to the end. Special drills for wood have to be resorted only when it is required to drill a hole of a large diameter, or increased requirements for cleaning the surface and accuracy. There are several types of such drills:

• spiral (a);
• twisted or single-alpiral (it is sometimes called spiral) (b);
• feather (B);
• ring (crown) (g);
• cylindrical forstner (D) drill.

The drill for wood is made from instrumental alloyed and instrumental carbon steels, the metal cannot be processed with them.

Spiral drill Drill holes of small and medium diameter. Its quite can be replaced by a metal drill, although the cleanliness of the holes will be higher when using a spiral drill for a tree.

Single drill It has an acute cutting edge and a screw shape that removes the chips well. It is used when you need to get accurate deep hole With a clean surface of the walls.

Feather drill Usually used when drilling holes with a diameter of 10 to 25 mm, although there are drills with a diameter of less than 10 and large 25 mm. This drill is the easiest of construction and cheapest, so it is reasonable to use it in all cases when high demands are not presented to the quality of the hole. The disadvantages of the featured drill include a bad direction, low accuracy of diameter, the coarse surface of the hole walls, the need to periodically remove the chips, stopping drilling and removing the drill from the hole. To the merits - simplicity and low cost.

Crowns Used when driving a large diameter holes - up to 100 mm and more. In the sets there are one mandrel with a shank and centering drill And several crowns that are inserted into the mandrel.

Drill Forstener It has a centering edge and sharp cutter. Thanks to the latter, it is characterized by accurate cut geometry. Usually used to drill blind holes with precision sizes in soft wood, chipboard or laminate for installation of furniture canopies.

Forcener drill can be with a short or long edge.

Forcener drill with long edge is harder to make deaf hole For loops in a thin door, since the edge can make a through hole. But the drill with a short edge is more inclined to inside. In addition to the differences in the length of the island, the forster drills depicted in the photo above are distinguished by the maximum rotation frequency. So the short-casting drillings have welded knives from high-speed steel and is suitable for working with large revs, and a long-edge drill has a maximum rotational speed when working with soft wood equal to 1000 rpm.

There is another device for cutting big holes - it is ballerinka, designed to clipping large (up to 300 mm) holes in thin wood blanks, chipboard, fiberboard and other materials.

The ballerina consists of a centering drill and two incisors, which are carried out with a circle cut. The displacement of the cutters on the guide sets the diameter of the cut circle. To rotate, the balletics uses a coland or a drill with a low revolutions. You can rotate it and manually.

How to drill a tree and chipboard

So that the drill does not go to the side at the very beginning of drilling, in the center of the future opening you need to make a small deepening selection. The drilling of the tree is carried out on the small and medium turnover of the drill. The main problem when drilling through holes, are chips at the output of the drill. You can cope with them in two ways. To drift first a thin hole and carry out the drilling on it from two sides of the part to the middle of the final diameter drill. Thus, it will be possible to avoid chips that are at the output. The second way is that the side with which the drill comes to tightly press the lining from the tree, which is removed after drilling.

Conductors are used to give the drill perpendicularity. Especially convenient for the latch to perform holes in cylindrical details.

Special attention requires the drilling of the chipboard - due to its fragile structure. The presence of laminated or veneer coating complicates the task. To avoid their detachment, use drills with a sharp edge (in particular, the cylindrical forstner drill) and the exit lining. For the holes, it is necessary to use the seed.

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