Sawing chipboard at home without chips. How to make a chipboard cutting without chips in a home workshop. Using adhesive tapes

Here, I collected enough material and decided to roll another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing chipboard without chips.

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

Not a bad way to trim misaligned parts, but you can't cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (he, too, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with the markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

Method 5 - Fraser

Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece, the quality is no different from the format tool, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating from the marking line by 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). should be copier, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The ability to carry out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many, including several, exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.

We recently bought coffee table, the price is inexpensive, but there is a "but". The height of the table for our interior is too big. It would be nice to reduce the height of centimeters by 10. As they say, we are not looking for easy ways, I decided that

I can do it myself.

I remembered that on our site there is an asoleg specialist who did it, of course, I'm far from him, but some recommendations can help. I contacted him, explained the problem and he kindly shared his secret. With his permission, I publish his cutting technology furniture chipboard no chips.

Everything turned out to be corny and simple. We mark the cutting line. Then with a clerical knife, along a ruler, cut through the top layer of chipboard. Just run the knife several times with little effort along the cutting line. (I recommend practicing on the unnecessary part of the wood particle board) If you press very hard, then the decorative layer will begin to swell and turn out not very beautiful.

Further, retreating 1-2 millimeters from the marked line towards the rough part, we cut it with a jigsaw or a suitable file with teeth directed to the saw handle. We make a wash on the opposite side of the cut, so that there is no chipping at the end of the cut. And we saw through to the end. You need to cut carefully, slowly. Then, with a medium grain sandpaper, fixed on a bar, we clean the end of the part. If necessary, remove the millimeter that we retreated. My cut turned out to be almost perfect, after processing with sandpaper there were no scoring at all. The photo shows the difference between the left and right sides of the cut. Well, and, accordingly, if both parts of the chipboard are needed, we cut it with a knife on both sides of the cut. We measure the thickness of the cut of a jigsaw or file, add 2 millimeters. The result is the distance that should be between the cuts made with a clerical knife. Cut exactly between these lines. Then there will be no scuffs on the other side. Naturally, you need to use a sharp instrument, I use an instrument.

Everything worked out great. On the finished table, my wife did not find the place where I cut.

Thanks for the assistance and help asoleg.

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If you love doing something with your own hands, read the article.

Chipboard is a very common chipboard covered with a paper-resin film, which is also finely sanded. Lamination takes place at a temperature of 140-210 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 25-28 MPa. After the entire lamination procedure, the surface is beautiful, durable, resistant to thermal effects and mechanical damage, which gives the chipboard a very attractive look in the manufacture of furniture and when decorating the interior of the room.

A large number of craftsmen prefer to make furniture on their own and for this they buy high-quality laminated chipboard from manufacturers or in ordinary hardware stores. A wide range of colors when laminating the surface makes it easy to choose required material... There are also a variety of textures: it can be embossed under wood spores or shagreen, or smooth, as well as imitate a natural stone or wood.

But in order to make an exclusive interior or unique furniture yourself, it is not enough just to purchase laminated chipboard. The laminate has a very fragile structure. With the wrong actions, the cutting of chipboard turns out to be very torn, and deep shells appear on the edges. In order to cut the chipboard without cracks and chips, you need to know a few tricks when making a cut.

Basic rules for cutting laminated chipboard

Cut laminated chipboard at home you can use a circular saw, jigsaw, hand saw with fine teeth. For all the work to be successful, you should:

• Along the line of the main cut, fix the adhesive tape very tightly, which does not allow the teeth to damage the face of the surface.
• Use a sharp knife to cut the laminated flooring along the cutting line. In this case, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, exerting only a tangential effect on the coating.
• A hand-held saw should be positioned at a very acute angle relative to the board surface during operation.
• Saw with an electric tool at minimum feed.
• On this part, cut a layer of the surface edge at an angle of 45 degrees with a thin knife.
• Grinding the cut should be done with a small file, grinding the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

For subsequent protection of the surface from cracks and chips, you should use overlays: C-shaped overhead edging, self-adhesive melamine tape, T-shaped edge.

It is believed that without professional tool high-quality wood cut or sheet materials do not execute. Today we will tell you about ways to make a clean, even cut without chips, on our own and without using expensive equipment and consumables.

Cutting tools and mechanics of their work

If you do not take into account stationary sawing machines, alternatives for self made not so much. From the available tools, you can offer circular and pendulum saws, in the common people called crosscutters and jigsaws. It is also possible to perform a sufficiently high-quality cut with the help of an angle grinder, on which a saw blade for wood with victorious teeth is installed. But this is not the most effective and, moreover, not the safest option.

In the process of cutting with any type of power tool, the working bodies move at a very high speed, and therefore the machining mechanics remain, as it were, behind the scenes. However, understanding it is the key to getting a clean, chip-free edge. The simplest principle is the basis for the work of pendulum saws. The cut is carried out with the direct movement of the saw blade, while the size of the removed fragments completely depends on the size of the tooth and its setting.

Chips appear due to the heterogeneity of the processed material, in particular due to the hard crust of the laminated sheet materials or due to the fact that the fibers solid wood have different densities. Chips can form on different sides of the product, depending on the shape of the tooth, feed force and the speed of the tool. When working with a jigsaw, the appearance of chips is due either to the fact that the teeth pull out large fragments from the seamy side, or due to the pushing of the upper layer, in which it is not cut off, but breaks out in large fragments.

The work of the prongs circular disc is in many ways similar to a jigsaw, with the only exception that their movement is directed strictly in one direction, and they move with a very high speed... Also a significant factor is the direction (angle) of the applied force: if the jigsaw saw moves strictly perpendicular to the surface, then the circular cuts at an arbitrary angle, depending on both the diameter of the disc and the thickness of the part. This can play into the hands: oblique immersion of the tooth contributes to a more accurate cutting of chips, but with back side the tangential movement of the cutting edges can cause large fragments to be pulled out. Of course, a circular saw will only be able to make a straight cut.

Choice of saw blades and blades

When cutting, cleanliness and processing speed are inversely related. It is worth noting that chips on the cut will appear in any case, so the main task is to reduce their size to such a value where they can be easily eliminated by subsequent processing. The size of the chips will be the smaller, the smaller the size of the tooth and the closer to right angle, under which the cutting edge touches the surface of the material. To select a circular saw blade these are the two most important factor out of three.

The third can be called the amount of setting - the offset of adjacent teeth, which is quite simple to determine by attaching a ruler to them. To ensure a clean cut, the wiring should be minimal, but do not forget that in this case, when you try to cut a thick board or a sheet of plywood, the disc can be trivially clamped or the end will burn from strong friction.

Jigsaw saw blades are more varied. For a chip-free cut, a series of clean-cut saws are used, for example, BOSCH has a line of blades called CleanWood. Their main difference is their small size and the absence of a pronounced orientation of the teeth. They are usually in the shape of an isosceles triangle and cut in both directions of travel.

Also saws for a clean cut are distinguished by the almost complete absence of setting and the opposite direction of sharpening adjacent teeth. In order to provide the opportunity for small wiring curly cut, the files have a very small width, which makes them quite fragile.

For fine cutting of sheet materials, blades designed for working with metal products can also be used. These files have smallest size teeth of the known, therefore, the cut is performed slowly, but with the highest quality index. Due to the considerable width of the canvases for metal, a finishing figured cut can be carried out only with a significant bending radius, on average about 60-80 cm.

Note also that the bluntness of the teeth, which is characteristic of low-quality saws with a "run" of 3-5 meters, also leads to the formation of chips. Therefore, do not skimp when purchasing consumables if the quality of processing is really important to you.

Zero clearance technique

The most commonly used by carpentry craftsmen is the sole finishing principle. cutting tool, which consists in reducing the gap between the working body and the clamping platform. This is almost guaranteed to eliminate the crust breaking effect in top layer material.

Zero clearance is achieved by attaching the cover plate to the tool base plate. The pad has only one narrow hole (or slot) that fits snugly against the cutting body. Because of this, even with a high feed force, the teeth are guaranteed to cut small chips, and not turn out the chips in the upper layer of the part.

When using pads, it is imperative that they do not scratch or damage the surface of the part. Therefore, most often they are made from a material that is inferior in hardness to the processed one, for example, MDF or drywall. Unfortunately, such an overlay is not enough for a long time, which is why it has to be changed every 4-5 meters of the cut.

More durable pads can be made of sheet plastic (PVC, fluoroplastic), fiberglass or metal. In the latter case, the surface of the pad should be carefully polished and soft metals such as aluminum or duralumin should be used to reduce vibration.

Using adhesive tapes

The same principle can be used to protect the back of the material to be cut. Tape should be glued along the cutting line, which will protect against pulling out large fragments. Pasting surfaces is one of the few ways to ensure the cleanliness of a figured cut with a jigsaw. Unfortunately, masking tape is not suitable for this. the best way due to its low strength.

The best quality cut can be obtained by pasting an aluminum or fiberglass reinforced tape tape. It should be wide enough to cover 15-20 mm on each side of the cut line. The density of the sticker is also important: the tape must be well pressed with a dry rag swab and by any means to exclude the formation of folds.

Tapes with very tenacious glue should be avoided. In the process of tearing off, they can carry along with them small fibers and fragments of the laminated surface, dissected by microcracks that form during cutting. Also pay attention to how easy the adhesive is to remove and whether the adhesive is good enough to handle rough materials like raw plywood or OSB.

Ensuring a perfectly clean cut

For most parts, it is sufficient to reduce the chip size to 0.2-0.5 mm. Such small irregularities of the cut edge are not striking, if desired, they can be easily eliminated by chamfering with an emery bar or covering with a wax corrector pencil. Grinding of the butt is also possible sandpaper if a sufficient stock was given when cutting.

Nevertheless, even at home, it is possible to achieve a cut quality comparable to that of a saw with two high-speed discs. This is possible only when the tool moves along the guide rail, in extreme cases - along the temporary stop bar.

First, you need to make two cuts about 0.5 mm deep on both sides of the part to indicate the thickness of the cut. Along the edges of the cutting line, you need to scratch two grooves under a straight ruler. This is done either with a segmented or oblique boot knife (for chipboard and uncoated wood), or with a sharpened drill or victorious cutter (for laminated materials).

The depth of the grooves should be at least half the thickness of the outer layer, which is inhomogeneous with respect to the main body of material. This method requires high precision matching grooves and cutting lines, but this is the only way to ensure a perfectly flat edged end that does not require additional processing.

How to cut wood chipboard without chips at home, let's try to briefly figure it out. Currently, cabinet furniture is very popular, which is also made from chipboard. Laminated chipboard is a finely polished chipboard covered with a paper-resin film. The coating is durable and beautiful. In addition, laminated chipboard in comparison with solid wood cheap material, and due to the laminated coating, there is no need to paint or varnish the finished product.

The texture and color of the surface are very diverse, but the main disadvantage of chipboard is that with inaccurate cutting, material chips are possible.

How to cut wood chipboard

Chipboard can be sawn with a hand saw with a fine tooth, jigsaw, circular saw... The place of the cut is glued with masking tape and cut along the cutting line sharp knife... The knife cuts through laminated flooring and the upper fibers of the tree underneath. Further, when the saw passes, the chipboard will not chip. Finishing the end under the C-shaped overhead edging in the manufacture of furniture, this method is quite suitable. And under the melamine self-adhesive tape, it is better to use another method.

With an electric jigsaw or a circular saw, we saw wood chipboard with a margin of 2-3 mm. from the cutting line. I sawed with a jigsaw along the guide. Any flat rail or rule can be used as a guide. In my case, fiberglass with a width of 150 mm. thickness 4 mm. As described above, chips formed on the chipboard.

Next, set the guide exactly along the cutting line and hand milling cutter edge cutter remove these 2-3 mm. which we left in stock. The design of the beveler has a bearing on the shank equal to the diameter of the cutter itself, resulting in a perfectly flat edge to which self-adhesive melamine tape can be easily glued. Also, when cutting curvilinear cuts, you cannot do without the use of a router. With an electric jigsaw, we make a guide with the required radii and also go through the end with an edge mill. Way sawing wood chipboard chip-free also suitable for cutting film faced plywood and MDF.