In this material, we will touch upon such a topical issue for the garages who deal with laminated chipboard furniture, the question of how to cut chipboard without chips. In fact, the question is quite topical, because professional equipment (panel saw) on which cutting is performed in furniture shops, costs about a million rubles, which is not affordable for everyone, and the area for its placement should be slightly larger than the standard 18 sq. meters. A feature of such machines is the presence of two saw blades(the first is a small undercut and the second is the main one, following exactly after it). What can replace such a machine in an amateur workshop?

The most optimal, in my opinion, replacement is a plunge-cut circular saw complete with a guide rail. We’ll talk about it today.

Personally, I use an Elitech plunge-cut saw - this is a domestic budget model, which, despite its simplicity, allows you to achieve good results.

Professional models (for example, Festool saws, saw even better, but also cost 5 times more).

So, how is a plunge-cut circular saw different from a conventional circular saw? Firstly, with its spring-loaded working part with a depth stop. Due to this, it is very easy to set and change the depth of cut, in addition, the "head" returns to its original position on its own in the absence of operator pressure. Secondly, these are the obligatory grooves on the sole for integration with the guide rail. Thirdly, it is a rigid structure that excludes backlash (the cut takes place strictly in one place).

The tire itself is equipped with an anti-splinter tape (as a rule, it is a tape made of hard rubber - the black strip on the right)

The tape presses the laminate, preventing pieces of it from coming off in the places where the teeth come out saw blade... The tire also has grooves for fixing on the workpiece with clamps and tapes for easier sliding (red stripes).

By the way, the Festool saw is equipped with anti-splinters on the side opposite to the tire, which makes the cut clean on both sides of the blade.

The tire itself is rigidly attached to the workpiece and does not move. Fixation is carried out with special clamps (their shape is somewhat different from the standard F-shaped ones. The price, by the way, is the same).

All these features allow you to cut in two passes. The first is not deep cuts upper layer laminate. The second - through cuts to the full depth. At the same time, there is no more material at the point of exit of the tooth from the workpiece, therefore there is nothing to pull out, respectively, chips are not formed. This is all in theory. Let's see how this is all done in practice.

The markup is quite traditional. Using a tape measure, mark the start and end points of the cut (you can use a carpenter's square).

We draw a marking line, connecting these risks.

Along the line, set the guide rail so that the edge of the splinter-resistant tape is aligned with the markings.

Please note that the tire lies on the part that should remain (there will be no chips on it - the tape on the tire will help). On a vaulted piece, they are possible due to the absence of an insert on the saw itself.

You can, of course, cut by laying the chipboard sheet on the workbench, but this damages the surface of the workbench and you need to use replaceable tabletops (I don’t do that, although this may be the only correct method with large pieces).

The tire is attached to the workpiece in pairs F-shaped clamps inserted into special grooves on the bus.

We take a saw in our hands and set 11-12 mm on the depth regulator, which corresponds to 5-6 mm of cutting depth (the tire itself "eats" about 5 mm).

We put the saw on the tire, aligning the grooves on the sole with the protrusions on the tire.

We make the first shallow cut. The photo shows that there is a small amount of chips on the part of the workpiece uncovered with the tape.

And one more photo from a different angle.

And close-up

Change the depth to 35-40 mm and make a second through cut without changing the position of the tire.

Having removed the tire, we see a fairly accurate cut that does not require additional processing.

Separately photographed the part after removing the tire from above

And from the bottom side.

By the way, the bottom cut is traditionally "cleaner" because in this place the teeth of the disc only cut into the material, they pull it out at the exit.

I will also note one important fact. Work with sharp discs. The disc used in this lesson is already pretty "tired" and requires editing. I think that with a zero disk, there would be no chips at all.

In addition to the sharpness of the teeth, the cut quality is also strongly influenced by the material being cut. There are harder coatings and more durable coatings. V this example used boards of 16 mm laminated chipboard Lamarty - one of the best domestic boards. Chipboard Egger or Kronospan are much more susceptible to chipping, and I would most likely not have had such a result with this disc.

All these moments come with experience, it's up to you to get a divorce to buy this device.

In principle, it is possible to cut in "two passes" and with ordinary circulars with homemade guide rails, the main thing is that the sole does not dangle, but it is less convenient to do this than with plunge-cut saws, primarily due to the inconvenience of rearranging the cutting depth.

Chipboard is a very common chipboard covered with a paper-resin film, which is also finely sanded. Lamination takes place at a temperature of 140-210 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 25-28 MPa. After the entire lamination procedure, the surface is beautiful, durable, resistant to thermal effects and mechanical damage, which gives the chipboard a very attractive look in the manufacture of furniture and when decorating the interior of the room.

A large number of craftsmen prefer to make furniture on their own and for this they buy high-quality laminated chipboard from manufacturers or in ordinary hardware stores. A wide range of colors for surface lamination allows you to easily choose required material... There are also a variety of textures: it can be embossed under wood spores or shagreen, or smooth, as well as imitate a natural stone or wood.

But in order to make an exclusive interior or unique furniture yourself, it is not enough just to purchase laminated chipboard. The laminate has a very fragile structure. With the wrong actions, the cutting of chipboard turns out to be very torn, and deep shells appear on the edges. In order to cut the chipboard without cracks and chips, you need to know a few tricks when making a cut.

Basic rules for cutting laminated chipboard

You can cut laminated chipboard at home using a circular saw, jigsaw, hand saw with fine teeth. For all the work to be successful, you should:

• Along the line of the main cut, fix very tightly duct tape which prevents the teeth from damaging the face of the surface.
• Use a sharp knife to cut the laminated flooring along the cutting line. In this case, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, exerting only a tangential effect on the coating.
• The hand-held saw should be positioned at a very acute angle relative to the board surface during operation.
• Saw with an electric tool at minimum feed.
• On this part, cut off a layer of the surface edge with a thin knife at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Grinding the cut should be done with a small file, grinding the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

For subsequent protection of the surface from cracks and chips, you should use overlays: C-shaped patch edging, self-adhesive melamine tape, T-shaped edge.

How to cut laminated chipboard, Chipboard without chips? How to repair chips after cutting?

(10+)

Please tell me how to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips?

Question:

When making furniture, you have to saw chipboard. Chipboard does not like this very much - it crumbles. Chips are formed along the edge. How to cut chipboard without chips or repair chips?

Answer:

.

But if you plan to use laminated chipboard completely, then this method is not suitable. It is necessary to cut so that there are no chips. Saw so that there are no chips, without special equipment quite difficult. The circular saw not only crumbles the edge, but can split the laminate up to half a meter along the slab. And any other tool gives an edge even worse.

Rumor has it that chipboard can be cut without chipping with a hacksaw for metal with a very fine tooth, or even a jigsaw with a file for metal with a very fine tooth. But it doesn't work for me.

I cut the chipboard, if I need to get a good edge, like this: I mark - I draw the lines along which the cut will go. I put a metal ruler along the line. I secure it with clamps. I cut through the laminate with a cutter along the lines of the intended cut. The cut is made quite deep and wide (slightly wider than a hacksaw or circular disc). I run the cutter along the iron ruler several times until I cut through the entire coating. I do it from both sides. It is very important to mark up correctly so that the markings on the top and the markings on the bottom coincide. After that, I already drink, usually hand hacksaw on wood. But I already got used to getting into the slot and circular.

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As practice shows, it is very difficult to make a high-quality cut of chipboard with a durable melamine coating. Rough instruments often jagged the cuts. You cannot assemble a neat door or shelf with such defects. Cutting chipboard at home, as a rule, occurs when renovation work or making furniture.

How to cut wood chipboard without chipping and chipping?

Special equipment

Of course the most the best way- use a special formatting machine. With it, you can get any cut. But for private needs such a tool cannot be bought, but for manufacturing enterprise providing sawing services, such a procedure will cost good money... A cheaper way is a circular saw. There are even special saws for chipboard. But they will also require the use of special tools. However, many in the arsenal should have milling machine, which will fix the rough cut with the cutter. If you have experience with such a machine, it will not be difficult to obtain a satisfactory cut appearance.

Handy tools

You can cut wood chipboard and a jigsaw, but this will be a rough cut. The edges may not turn out straight, but sinusoidal, and in the worst case, the edge will come out non-perpendicular to the front surface.

In the course of cutting, you need to be prepared for the jigsaw blade to start "walking" because of the bend. You need to cut with a margin of 4 mm, and then level the edge.

Sawing chipboard at home using a jigsaw, reduces the formation of chips. When cutting, it is necessary to increase the speed and decrease the feed, setting the pumping rate to 0. Only use sharp saws intended for special sawing chipboard... Only by observing these rules can you achieve a good result. After cutting the end, which will be in plain sight, you can earn extra money with sandpaper. Additionally, before cutting, as already mentioned, you need to cut a line along which the sawing will pass. But we do not lead the file along this line, but near it - then the chips will not touch the limits you need. In the end, all that remains is to finish the edges with sandpaper.

Offsets from the contour can be up to 4 mm. Then these few millimeters are removed with a cylindrical cutter using a hand-held electric milling cutter with a bearing. The bearing is guided along a long level, fixed with back side sheet.

In addition, if the chips are in a non-working, hardly visible area, they can be masked with a marker or felt-tip pen matched to their color.

The most unwanted way sawing wood chipboard - a file (oddly enough, in old textbooks a lot of material is devoted to this method). You can use a plane, but preferably electric and with carbide knives. But here it must be borne in mind that dust from under the plane will scatter throughout the room.

And the most comfortable way- using a hand-held router along the guide. The end should be even and under 90 grams, there will be no chips, and when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, there will be almost no dust.

Craftsmen recommend using a hacksaw for such cutting. If you have a saw with a fine tooth, then the procedure is as follows:

1) Draw a cutting line with a knife. Sharpen the saw before starting work. The knife should be guided with slight pressure so that the laminated top layer is notched.

2) Glue a tape with a sticky base along the marked cutting line. It will help keep the decorative layer from cracking. You can also use paper tape.

3) The tool should be held at a very sharp angle. In this case, the angle should not be higher than 30 degrees - this will reduce the likelihood of chips. While cutting, lightly apply pressure to the saw. If the work is done with a power tool, such as a jigsaw, then you do not need to rush and press on it.

4) After the end of sawing, the cut can be cleaned with a file. But in many cases this is not required, since the small saw teeth prevent the laminate from deforming. If torn edges are formed, then delicate rasping will bring the cut into its proper form. The sanding tool should be guided towards the center from the edge to minimize possible damage to the top layer.

5) The glued veneer strip will add the final beauty to the cut.

Of course, cutting chipboard at home does not imply professional quality and high speed work. For those who are in a hurry, we can offer sawing wood chipboard with a grinder. A wood disc is used as a cutting element. A bar is attached to the chipboard on clamps so that the grinder is guided along it for an even cut. After cutting, possible chips are treated with the same grinder, only with a different nozzle - for grinding. But a more gentle option is to use sandpaper.

How to cut wood chipboard without chips at home, let's try to briefly figure it out. Currently, cabinet furniture is very popular, which is also made from chipboard. Laminated chipboard is a finely polished chipboard covered with a paper-resin film. The coating is durable and beautiful. In addition, laminated chipboard in comparison with solid wood cheap stuff, and due to the laminated coating, there is no need to paint or varnish the finished product.

The texture and color of the surface are very diverse, but the main disadvantage of wood chipboard is that with inaccurate cutting, material chips are possible.

How to cut wood chipboard

Chipboard can be sawn with a hand saw with a fine tooth, jigsaw, circular saw... The place of the cut is glued with masking tape and cut along the cutting line sharp knife... The knife cuts through laminated flooring and the upper fibers of the tree underneath. Further, when the saw passes, the chipboard will not chip. Finishing the end under the C-shaped overhead edging in the manufacture of furniture, this method is quite suitable. And under the melamine self-adhesive tape, it is better to use another method.

With an electric jigsaw or a circular saw, we saw the chipboard with a margin of 2-3 mm. from the cutting line. I sawed with a jigsaw along the guide. Any flat rail or rule can be used as a guide. In my case, fiberglass with a width of 150 mm. thickness 4 mm. As described above, chips formed on the chipboard.

Next, set the guide exactly along the cutting line and hand milling cutter edge milling cutter remove these 2-3 mm. which we left in stock. The design of the beveler has a bearing on the shank equal to the diameter of the cutter itself, resulting in a perfectly flat edge to which self-adhesive melamine tape can be easily glued. Also, when cutting curvilinear cuts, you cannot do without the use of a router. With an electric jigsaw, we make a guide with the required radii and also go through the end face with an edge mill. The chip-free sawing method is also suitable for cutting laminated plywood and MDF.