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Reliable milling table with their own hands. Milling table manufacture with your own hands: drawings, video and photo folding cellular table drawing

Photos of this, undoubtedly, an interesting sawing table provided us with Alexey Kuznetsov, for which he was thank you very much.

Consider it in more detail: Classic table With four legs, reinforced by several kings. Two-layer table top. It has a carriage groove on the left.

The carriage has a p-shaped shape with triangular slopes.

Another view on the other side. On one leg of the table displaced the switch.

On the right there is a parallel focus original design. For him, there is a step in the tabletop.

Fixation of the stop is quite original. Screw-las pulls the hook, which presses the stop to the table.

The fastening of the ELITECH PD 2000 saw itself is even more original. The focus with the saw is dismantled, and the saw itself is fixed on a moving tripod of plywood with two degrees of freedom. For a tabletop, this bed is attached by a pair of card loops. 0.

You can adjust the depth of the cut, as well as the slope saw Disc. By loosening and tightening the "bars" in arcuate holders.

In order not to lose the depth of the cut at the tabletop below the niche chosen

in which the founding of the bed is outlied. That is, the engine literally lies on the tabletop from the inside with the maximum departure of the saw disk.

Another attachment plan from the inside.

I think that from the photo all the main points are understandable. If you can question you can ask them in a group or on the site page, the author will surely answer.

I use this table constantly, for about a year the fastening of the saw shows itself very well, did not expect such a result. Resh is always accurate. It is necessary to redo the guide groove, I will make them two and from the aluminum profile, plus the elevators of inclination and lifting. Honestly, even if there was an opportunity to buy a circular one hundred, I would not buy and overpay a lot of money because the result is the same. The main thing in the fastener of the saw very accurately calculate parallels and perpendicular, and that's it.

A similar table can be very useful in shortage of storage location and if you are working with a tree not every day and on occasion.





Step 1: Sizes and Identification of Parts



Many details have only one dimension. This is because the second or unimportant, declared to another place, or, depending on the thickness of plywood. I learned this way: 18mm, 23/32, in 3/4 may be close, but small errors add up.

You will need:

4x8 sheet of plywood. I used BC. e. And he was marked 18mm.

4 pipes about 32 "long. This is a flexible item. I used 1.25 inch aluminum tubes from Onlinemetals.com. They are expensive with delivery, but they were needed, as I drilled holes that were too large for my 1 "electric pipe. I plan to experiment here with what you have in stock and which drills you have access. Tight fit will give the best results.

8pcs x 2 3/8 "bolt

Barish nut 3/8 8pc

3/8 16pcs washer

glue & Double Stick Ribbon Carpet

cookies and or rifts of drywall

3/4 oak dubel 36 "Long

Notes:

Blue pieces and one short yellow tube support supports. They are shown here, but installed under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.

Not all photos are 100% accurate. The first table was a failure and some adjustments were made to final drawings.

Bolts are busting, but more easier to use.

Step 2: Cut sequences





The idea here is to have similar parts without moving the saw. Desktop a circular saw It can be used, but it was done with a circular saw and parallel focus that came with him.

First segment: Rip 24 "Off Short end 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. It is important to use some of the cut. Track saw a straight edge, etc.

Second segment: From the other end to use your 24 "piece and subtracting 4 plywood thicknesses. It should be about 21. Cause It is important because the legs are placed on the inside of the top of the table and outside the shelf.

Cutting them to remove any side gives greater accuracy.

Set of these two to the side and continue cutting.

Slices have a color label, and if they have a color or color point they are one general dimension. Remember, save on the right side of your line.

Note Feet: Feet should be 3 "x3" when finished. This section of the sheet has a short side of the measured long for a rabbit. If you want glue and screw or glue and biscuits to the short side, 2-1 / 4, or 3 "minus plywood thickness!

As soon as all strips cut back to the first 24 "wide piece made and cut, that 37" long. We cut carefully, with a guide or straight the edge of some. Save cut off for then how the short skirt ends comes out of it.

Next segment Shelf on top length. This was done using the second segment. Use the top you just done as a template and subtract four plywood thicknesses. There must be about 34. " Save sliced \u200b\u200bas a short skirt ends will be made of this.

Step 3: Drilling holes, long boards



1. Take two long 3-3 / 4. To get the length spread them on top and subtract two plywood thicknesses. Spend a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with circular saw or miter saw. Come down to the side.

2. Cut two short 4-1 / 2 and the remaining 3-3 / 4. This aspect should be 32-3 / 8 "+/- so that they will fit into the shelf when everything is collected. Clamp and cut all three immediately.

3. Next drill holes the desired diameter Depending on which pipes you have chosen. Pay attention to the location of the Link from the bottom. Mark all the "bottoms" for subsequent installation. Drill holes as much as possible. To do this, I used a double tape and a boring machine. All pieces were folded on a flat surface with a reference to the side. In short, they were in the center and all accommodate.

If you do not have a boring machine, drill three 3-3 / 4 wide as one group, I remember in the center shorter and make your labels for longer. They must be ordered long, short, long. Then, with the help of a shorter quality template, drill two 4-1 / 2 in width. I would advise it all the same using double-sided adhesive tape.

Also pay attention. If your plywood has a good side / and a bad side, which is important for you, flip board is properly. If the holes are not perfect pipes may not allow you to do it later.

Step 4: Drilling holes, short boards



1. The board supports. Cut the remaining 4-1 / 2 boards approximately 24 ". I did it by cutting 4-1 / 2 x 48 half. Then add the remaining 4-1 / 2 and cut all three immediately to the trader saw to maximum length possibly.

2. Pipe supports. Reducing the long 3-3 / 4 in the amount of two pieces 22-3 / 8 +/-. They are suitable for the table so that their actual size is 24 "minus plywood thickness * 2.

Similar to long boards These must be laid and merged. Ideally 4-1 / 2, 4-1 / 2, 3-3 / 4, 3-3 / 4, 4-1 / 2 from 3-3 / 4 in the center. Remember the bottom mark. If you need to break, that I would like to make 3-3 / 4 and 4-1 / 2 and mark them as A. Do everything else and mark them like B. You do not want to be bending the pipe to get things to fit.

Pay attention to the holes:

My first holes were for 1 "EMT conductor. This material was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus, dear aluminum. However, 1.25 aluminum after 1-1 / 4 hole drilled with the Fostner bit was too dense. It ended using the first drill and some sanding.

Step 5: Optional Orange




In my table I am Mortised Foot Place. I do not think it is absolutely necessary, but it really adds to stability. This is a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, worse the case add a few more bolts!

If you decide it should be done before the bottom of the table. Ideally, before you make holes and demonstratively before the skirt is added.

Step 6: Collect top








It should go pretty quickly. I used the biscuit of Fuganok. If you do this, do not forget to mark the boards and links to right corners. Glue and clamp or glue and nails / screws to work as well.

All your pieces had a stigma on the bottom. Make sure it can be seen when you collect these pieces.

Step 7: Drill in the top





Two ways to do it.

1. Spend a line 2-1 / 2 throughout the perimeter of the upper part. From this line of the centers of holes 4-3 / 4 from each other in the direction of the short and 5-5 / 16 in far Destinations. Drill away. Figures a little off, 1/8 maybe. With some bizarre geometry, you could leave the strings if you really want. 3/4 "Fostner Bit to achieve the best results

2. I built jig. 9-3 / 4 x 37 plywood trim. Spend a line 2-1 / 2, the opposite is normal. Mark your centers 5-5 / 16. On the drilling machine to set a link 2-1 / 2. Drill of one hole line and only opposite two angles.

Put the template on your top with the line of holes at the bottom edge, the clamp is reliable. Drill. Then turn it over and align the two angular holes on the template from two detailed. Stick 3/4 inch dowel in each of the two angular holes. Clamp and drill on line again. Next revealed fishing rods, slide the template of one line, putting in the corners.

It worked pretty good. Holes looked good, but not 90 degrees. This is probably needed another jig!

Step 8: Legs






A couple of ways to make legs.

Cut all the legs up to 32. This is not critical. If you have other machines, you can use in combination with this table I think that changes that. Cut as much as you can safely immediately for greater accuracy. Make sure you do not use more than 3 " wide boards. Those who are on the shelf.

We are 3 "strips or 2-1 / 4" or 2-1 / 2 ". In accordance with these plans 2-1 / 2, since there were rabbit and Dado. If you want to use other methods, use 2-1 / 4 ". Or technically 3 "minus plywood thickness. In my case, 18mm.

Step 9: Collect the shelves

We cut earlier. It should be about 34 "(37" minus 4 plywood thickness).

We take the remaining 3 long "wide boards. Spread them on the shelf from above and put two pieces of plywood at the end to shorten the total length. Scribe and sv. Cut them both at the same time. There must be about 32-1 / 2. "

Collect the shelf just as you did the top. No need to apply additional holes or spikes.

Additionally:

Tapes Long boards together and drill two more holes for pipes. I am in the center of the mine at 3 "Board and about 4" from the end. I did it much however, it would be more utility, if several wells are set to raise and lower the shelf. I have only one shelf with a height.

Step 10: Leg Hole cutting guide and foot hole





This reference book of holes in the upper and in the shelf is accurate. This is not necessarily, but if you are turned off in all holes, then the legs will be determined specifically. It helps make legs interchangeable.

Directory

Scrap is about 3x10. Cut 3 "for top. Cut the remaining piece in half a short way with 45 degrees cut off.

Two lines up to 45 degrees. End and ribbon them together as shown in the figure. Cut the 90 degrees end so they are the same. Drill 3/8 "Hole 1-7 / 8 from 45 degrees end and 2-1 / 4 down from the vertex (measured before sticking the actual jig on top).

Use the square to make sure that all 90 degrees. Glue and Brad or clamp together.

Use the conductor to drill 2 holes in each of the four corners of the top and shelf.

Drill leg holes

With table upside down set legs using temporary clip. If you decide the stuffing you do not need clamps. I pushed my legs and angles to be safe.

Outside, use holes drilled in the top drill through your feet. Start the bolt and washers to the washer and the nut in each corner.

The height mark on the measurement shelf from the vertex along the legs. Mark every leg. Remember that you work with legs on your head and if you turn the shelf to use as a tray will effectively raise things. The plywood surface is about 12 "from the ground on my finished table. Install the shelves inside the legs. It should stay with friction, but clamp to make sure the corners stay on the line. Through holes drilled before you drill with inner shelf Through legs. Add bolts as described above. If you wanted adjustable height Shelves move and mark the shelf, drill, repeat.

There are additional holes. If you want a bolt for you, you will need another set of bolts and adjust the opening hole. The lamb nuts can contradict each other.

Step 11: Shutters

Welcome to our page "Multifunctional table for workshop - Festool MFT 3 table idea (Festul MFT) "!

In this review photo and video gallery, the specialists "Arsenal Masters" made a selection of ffrom and video on the theme of the variations of the Festool MFT 3 multifunction table: improvements, improvements, fixtures and homemade options.
* This photo view was created for informational purposes and is not a commodity, you can print this page on your own and free.

You have interesting photos, ideas, suggestions? You can send to accommodate in this review (with explanation and your data as the author)via or by e-mail: . Reviews this page can write your comments.

The Festool MFT / 3 table is not for nothing that has gained popularity around the world among masters working both in workshops and on the way out. MFT - Multi Function Table is a combination of mobile desktop and workbench.

Its main advantage: multivariance and ease of use. His popularity is related to the fact that the manufacturer connected the convenience of joinery solutions (with the fastening of stops and clamps on the table top in the installation holes) with the solution? came from the machine where aluminum profile With T-shaped groove, almost any snap is installed.

Video:

You can see the idea and possibility of using on the video from Festool on the MFT / 3 table:

View in catalog with prices All purchase options

We have distributed this selection by themes:

1. Festool MFT3 table refinement and expansion of its capabilities

If the master lacks the standard features of the product or something undermined something, he begins to improve it at its discretion. And here the main thing is not to peel. But if you go with all the addiction - it turns out a good solution. Some of those successful solutions We will show.

MFT3 table is initially mobile. Accordingly, his legs for stationary serious works are not sufficiently stable, even if there is a diagonal traverse. And I would like to use it with full. So invented first-in-speed MFT table to another more stable desktop. And MFT with folded or removed legs it allows. There are many options, but the point is one:


He is with "adults" wheels:

Base on aluminum profiles:

And composite:




Video:

The process of manufacturing such a table can be viewed in the video:

The elongated version of the MFT / 3 table, assembled on native components. The side elongated profile of a long 2 meter - are ordered positions that you can order from us.


Additional "body kit":

2. Homemade table options

Interesting implementation of the idea of \u200b\u200bthe MFT 3 table from the Nizhny Novgorod Masters Master G. here instead of standard round holes in top panel Countertops cut out rectangular windows. Clamp of workpiece using in these windows is much faster than in the holes. A standard machine profile with T-shaped groove is installed in the side strapping board of the tabletop. It provides all with the same clamps.

Interesting idea of \u200b\u200ba table with frame and exposure frame. Just and functionally. The table can be made using the KREG device for oblique connections:





Video:

by table with frame cell exposure:

Another interesting option Mirock Mirock Mirock "S Woodshop:


Video:

Video: How made a cellular workbench from Mirock "S Woodshop

Mobile options:

Semi-stationary multifunctional master table from native fatherland. Simple design, affordable materials - Excellent budget decision:


Video:

And video review on it:

One of the most popular tables in the image and similarity MFT 3 is the Multifunction WorkBench mobile table project (abbreviated MFTC) from Timothy Wilmots (Timothy Wilmot.





Video:

Video homemade MFTC Multifunction Table

Stationary options:
Stationary MFT table variants suggest a good sustainable foundation. Masters use a variety of solutions.
The most simple - of course the most budget:

The simplest can be in the form of a cupboard:

For example, when using even inexpensive materials (plywood, MDF, pine bars and simple), you can achieve an excellent result. It is necessary only to attach accuracy, well to fit all the details with the help of high quality and coat. And here it is the incarnation of the budget, but worthy of the look of the master of the master about his multifunction workbench.

In the following embodiment, only the benefits of working with are used.

Stationary MFT Desktop, made with German threshold (below detailed video The presentation on it) even more revealed the idea of \u200b\u200bthe versatility and capabilities of the Festool MFT table:












Video:

A few more solutions from European and American masters, which use the advantages of all three clamp options on the workbench: using rail profiles, using conventional vice and using the stops installed in the openings in the table top:

The version on standard aluminum machine profiles: is quickly assembled and at the expense of standard profiles has a large multivariate of the embodiment of your ideas. For greater stability, it is better to install angular inserts.

Another interesting project Stationary workbench on the rollers from Peter Parfitt from England (below the video on it):


Video:

And the most solid, in our opinion, the development of the idea of \u200b\u200bthe MFT table is the table of workbench from Holzwerken.
A thorough and thoughtful solution with interesting ideas:


Video:

Video review of this workbench:

3. Homemade devices for the MFT table

Boxes and shelves:

The question of how to make an independent milling table, many homemade masters are set. This is explained: the equipment on which the milling is fixed motionless, and the workpiece moves on a specially equipped desktop for this, in many cases much more convenient to use. Often when working with a manual milling, the workpiece is fixed on the usual table, and all manipulations are carried out by the instrument itself, which does not allow to observe the processing accuracy.

The milling table significantly increases productivity and efficiency with manual milling. Acquire the serial model of this table for its home is often unprofitable. Much more economical to make a milling table with your own hands. It does not take much time and will require very minor financial costs. Certray with such a task maybe any domestic master.

Using a homemade table for a manual milling processing of wood products, you can achieve results that allow you to obtain professional milling machines. With the help of such an uncomplicated device, a whole list of technological operations is performed qualitatively: cutting figured holes and spend the various slots and grooves in the workpiece, the manufacture of connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

With device milling table Factory production can be found in the video below. We will try to do no worse, but something even better and, that is very important, cheaper.

A homemade milling table that you will equip your home machine will give you the opportunity to perform not only wooden blanks, but also products that are made of chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. With such a self-made milling table, you can make grooves and slots, process Elements of tongue compounds and joints "Schip-grooves", to remove the chamfers and create decorative profiles.

The homemade table for the milling ager, the manufacture of which will not require large financial costs, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It will only be necessary to secure the tool itself - a manual milling driver, for which you can use the rack of a drilling machine or workbench. It is not by chance that many manufacturing companies engaged in the manufacture of milling tables and accessories to them, but for such an adaptation will have to give a decent amount of money. Homemade table for equipping the milling machine, if it is done in accordance with the drawings, which we will analyze in this article, in our functionality is not inferior to models released in production conditions, and it will cost much cheaper.

Drawings of the Milling Table: Option number 1

Drawings of the milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main nodes and their size.

Blueprints homemade table For manual millinger (click to enlarge)

Dimensions of parts Table in section Double-layer table cover cutout in the first layer of table
Cutout marking of the second layer of the table gluing both layers sawing the cutout on the markup of the second layer drawing of parallel stop
Facial Plate of Stop Dust Tube Plexiglass Safety Safety Clamp Fil and Stop Block

Construction of milling table

If you wish, you can make a milling homemade table from the usual workbench, but it is better to make a special design. It is explained by the fact that the machine with a cutter creates a strong vibration when working, therefore the bed used to fix the milling mill should be highly resistant and reliable. It should also be taken into account that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the tabletop for the milling table, so it should be enough free space.

When mounting the device to the worktop of the homemade table for a manual milling plate, a mounting plate is used, which should have high strength and rigidity, or special fittings for milling machine. Such a plate can be made of metal sheet, Textolite or durable plywood. On the soles of most models of milling mills already have threaded holes, they are needed to connect such a device with a worktop and the mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut into them the thread or use special fittings for the milling machine.

Prints for a milling machine or mounting plate should be placed on the same level with a tabletop, for this, the last sample is made in the latter. In the plate it is necessary to drill several holes, one of which is necessary for its compound with the table top with the help of self-samples, while others - so that such a plate can be fixed on the sole of the mill. Screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must be necessarily with a secret head.

To make the inclusion of your more convenient, you can arrange on the table top conventional buttonAs well as a fungus button that will make your device also safer. To improve the convenience of their homemade Machine You can fix on the surface of the milling table, made for hand milling hand, with your own hands, long metal ruler.

Before starting to design the milling coordinate table with your own hands, you need to determine the location where it will be located, and also decide which type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate milling mill (the table will be located with the side part of the sawing equipment, serve its expansion), compact desktop, separate stationary equipment.

To stop your choice on the compact desktop equipment for woodworking and other materials, in the event that you appeal to it irregularly or often use it outside your workshop. Such an installation that is distinguished small sizes, It takes quite a bit of place, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the sizes of your workshop allow you to be better to adjust the base of the stationary milling machine, to work on which is much more convenient than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, you can put it on the wheels with which you can easily change its location.

Plain homemade millingbottom table. There are questions for general strength, but cheaply and angrily.

The simplest milling table or table for drilling machine can be done very quickly. For the manufacture of such a design, easily located on the usual desktop, you will need a sheet of chipboard, on which the guide elements are fixed. As such a guide that can be used as a parallel stop for the milling table, will suit normal board A small thickness that is attached to the tabletop with bolted connections. If necessary, in parallel, you can attach the second such board, which will serve as a restrictive emphasis.

At the table in the table in a sheet of chipboard it will be necessary to make a hole for its placement, and it will be fixed on the tabletop, it will be with the help of two clamps. After that, the manufacture of the milling table can be considered complete. To make the use of such a design more convenient, you can place the simplest fittings for the milling machine on the table top.

Making beds and countertops

The box of the homemade milling unit should have high stability and reliability, since it is precisely the main loads. Structurally, it is a frame with supports on which the countertop is fixed. As a material for making a frame of the beds, you can use welding metal profiles, Chipboard, MDF, tree. It is advisable to first prepare the drawings of such a device. They need to designate all design elements and their dimensions depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

The lower part of the bed on the side of its front part must be deepened by 100-200 mm, so that the feet of the milling machine operator prevented anything. If you are going to handle on your homemade door lining and facades for them, then the sizes of the beds may be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).

One of meaningful characteristics The beds for the homemade milling machine are its height, from which the ease of operation depends on such equipment. According to the requirements of ergonomics, the most suitable height of the equipment, followed by standing - 850-900 mm. The lower parts of the bed supports are desirable to make adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for the unevenness of the floor, but also if necessary, change the height of the milling table. For the manufacture of swivel table. It is sufficient to fix special wheels on his legs.

The assembly of approximately such a table is considered in version 2

Make a milling table, distinguished by a low price, high reliability, can be from the old tabletop kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of a sheet of chipboard 26 or 36 mm thick, covered with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface provides good gliding of the workpiece, and the base from the chipboard is perfectly extinguished by vibration equipment occurring. If you do the work desk for the machine with your own hands, then for these purposes, slabs from MDF and chipboard (LDSP) thickness from 16 mm are suitable.

Drawings of the Milling Table: Option number 2

Detailed drawings of the milling table with additional extended drawers, which can be made from a bar and plywood (or MDF). The list of parts with dimensions and the recommended manufacturing material is presented in the table.

Table of table details and their sizes frame top corner carcass lower corner carcass
Sliding Guide Boxes Playing Table Top Layout Drawing
Large drawer Little Retractable Box Front Small Drawer Side Table Panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the worktop of the homemade milling machine has a sufficiently large thick, the mounting plate for fastening the milling mill must have a minimal thickness. This will allow you to maximize departure. cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate with a minimum thickness should differ high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made from metal or from a material that is not inferior to him by its strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet must be in the range of 4-8 mm. Taking advantage of pre-prepared drawings, a rectangular detail is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which is done hole. The dimensions of the latter corresponds to the diameter of the hole in the sole of the mill.

The connection of the plate with the soles of the milling and the table itself, as already mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it, and the response threaded holes In the sole of the mill. Holes for fixing the plates to the surface of the table, which are used as fitness for milling machine, are made in four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate with the mill must fully match the holes located on the tool sole. In order not to make a mistake in the manufacture of the plate, it is necessary to pre-prepare its drawing on which you need to specify dimensions This detail, diameters and location on it all holes. If desired, it can be fixed on the surface of the table using brackets.

The video with a detailed story about the construction of the milling table, the functionality and the convenience of which is very high, but also the complexity of the manufacture is also very serious. For most masters, such a table will be unnecessarily difficult, but maybe someone will turn useful ideas When creating your own equipment.

Collection of milling table

Universal milling table or begin to collect from attachment countertops to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place of the tabletop, where it should be placed according to the drawing, drive it with a pencil contour. It is necessary to choose the recess for the plate indicated for the plate, for which the manual milling is used with a tool with a diameter of 6-10 mm. The size of this recess should be such that the plate lay down in it on the same level with the surface of the table top.

Make a round milling recess with straight corners will not work, so on the plate itself, the corners also need to round up with a file. After fixing in the tabletop need to be done in mounting plate Hole with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the soles of the milling. It is done with a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the table top.

When the requirements with equipment are small and communicate with homemakes there is no desire, you can buy something similar to what is depicted in the photo below.

Proma cost about 6 thousand rubles - one of the cheapest factory milling tables

To perform such an operation, you will not need a drawing, as it does not require high precision. FROM back side The table tops also need to choose a certain amount of material, since the dust collector housing and other devices will be installed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all the above operations, you can focus on the drawings or photos posted in this article.

The final stage of the assembly of the homemade milling table is the combination of all its structural elements. First, from the bottom of the tabletop, the milling mill will start, its sole is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the top surface of the table top with the help of self-tapping screws with second headsthat must be completely recessed in the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations, the countertop itself is reliably fixed on the bed.

Drawings of the Milling Table: Option number 3

Compact desktop milling table and detailed analysis Its creation in the photo below.

Computer model Appearance assembly Rear view Front view
The cutter is raised, the flaps are spread the cutter is lowered, the sash shifted Manual frezer Hose from vacuum cleaner for dust and chips
Fastening of the milling and tap chips Adjusting the raising cutters Lifting the cutter is carried out by rotating the screw setting the lifting of the cutter
Setting up departure cutter pad from plexiglas to the installation of a milling glass exactly adjacent to the tabletop Millinger is screwed with a reference platform

Production of upper clamp

Asking how to make homemade Machine More secure in operation and ensure the convenience of processing the overall blanks on it, you can equip such equipment by the upper clamp. To create this device manufactured based on the roller, it is also necessary to prepare drawings.

As a roller, a ball bearing of the appropriate size is often used for a presser device. Mounted such a roller on the holding device that allows you to fix it at any distance from the table top. With this simple universal device The processed billet of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving on the surface of the desktop.

On the video below, the person shows its homemade milling table, which was assembled right on the balcony of his own home.

Drive for homemade milling machine

In order for the homemade milling mill on the tree by you, it was highly productive and functionality, it is necessary to equip it with an electric power. If you plan to use your machine for processing parts made of wood with a shallow sampling, it will be quite enough electric motor with a power of 500 W. However, equipment with a low-power drive will often be disconnected, which will negate all savings from the purchase of a weak electric motor.

The optimal choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 W. Such an electric motor with a power varying within 1-2 kW will allow you to apply your homemade device Like present milling Machine For the processing of wood products. In addition, you can use any type cutter on such a machine. To equip the machine drive, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, drilling machines), as well as on hand tools (Drills, Bulgarians, Hand Mills).