Our contacts. How to mount drywall to the ceiling: markup, installation of a metal frame, installation of plasterboard sheets, sealing of seams and screws Fastening M-shaped stakenist

Today we learn how to mount a profile for plasterboard to the wall. In other words, in this article we completely construct a metal framework, which will then be mounted in large sheets of drops.

How to mount a profile for plasterboard to the wall. Crocodiles

The question of how to fix the profile for drywall to the wall, begins with the fastening of the suspensions of the P-shaped, in the surprise - crocodiles. In the previous lesson, we posted on the wall of the place where these crocodiles will be attached:

If the wall is old wooden or made of plaster, then the suspensions for the wall must be attached to the screwdriver and the screws on the tree. If the wall is concrete or brick, then for the mounting of the suspensions to the wall, the perforator and 60x40 or 60x50 will be required.

So, we take the suspension and put it to the wall so that the central vertical line of the markup takes place exactly in the middle of the suspension (as if making it into two parts), and the horizontal - through the holes in the suspension, through which we will clipped the suspension to the wall:

The wall lined with plasterboard does not need additional alignment. This makes it possible to let it immediately under painting. By the way, painting on a conventional concrete surface will cost expensive. The surface will have to align with putty and grind. If there are traces of paint, and this is very characteristic of old buildings, for example, the times of Khrushchev, then additional preparation is required, which will take a lot of time. Therefore, people prefer plasterboard.

Design from plasterboard

Difficulty for marking represents the door and windows. And then many who have not had time to read this article before the start of repair, often make the same mistake - cut the sheet of plasterboard so that it walked back with the edge of the window on the wall. So it is impossible to mount.

And how to fix? On large sheets of plasterboard, you will have to cut part of the window opening. At the same time, the sheet is located vertically, and the cutout of the P-shaped, only the letter "P" as it would be laying. By connecting together two sheets of plasterboard, you will get the correct rectangular hole. Of course, it leads to an increase in the consumption of material, but these are the rules of installation.

Fastening diagram - red lines show how to do it is unacceptable

If possible, then one of the corners start with a solid sheet, it will reduce the consumption of the material. But not in all cases it is convenient to fix so because of the planning of the apartment. Another important detail is not attaching a plasterboard with a width of up to 10 cm. This will create difficulties, if fixed to the profile by a screwdriver.

It is better that the item is cut down, at least 30 cm wide. It can be easily planned if there will be another additional part of this width below the window. The rectangle with the same parameters, respectively, will settle up, and cut the rectangular holes for the window will be easier, as they are smaller in width.

The scheme is still complicated if the height that was determined on the wall exceeds the long part of the sheet. In this situation, the cut will have to complicate, placing the parts in a checker order. Something will change for the profile.

Preparation of profile

Getting Started on the markup of the frame from the profile only after determining the location and cutting of the sheets of plasterboard. Now consider where the racks and other design details are located. The step between them should be from 60 to 120 cm.

If the ceilings are high and the length of the plasterboard sheet lacks for installation on this surface, the additional profile will be required for horizontal joints. Do horizontal jumpers do not necessarily, if the height of the sheet does not exceed the height of the room. Think the location of additional racks.

Fastening to the wall

The markup position of the profile is performed first on the floor, then with the help of a plumb, they find a projection on the ceiling. Pay attention to the quality of the measuring instruments, if your level is inaccurate, the ceiling line will be at an angle.

On the floor, beat off the line on which the rest of the markup is carried out. Plasterboard should not touch the walls. Also, consider the Mineral Wool tab. If the size of the room allows, it is better to install it better. After all, this is an additional sound and thermal insulation.

Vertical lines on side surfaces are performed using a vertical level. The perimeter closes at the top on the ceiling. The profile is defined by Dichung. This German name means the adhesive tape for sound insulation. The fact is that the metal parts of the profile rattling the wall every time the car drives near the house.

Start mounting

The fastener is chosen depending on the material. The wall may be, say, from duncar, wood, concrete or brick. When working with a wooden basis, another fastener is used than when the wall is erected on concrete. If the concrete is durable, then it is permissible to use dowels BDM 6x40 for quick installation, on a plastered brick wall it is worth taking 6x60, on a fragile wall - 8x80. Conventional screws for wood should be taken for this wall.

Facing with insulation

How often do you need to fix a metal profile? It is better to use the intervals of at least 40 cm. If errors have been made when markup, it is better to fix them before mounting. Otherwise, the ugly the angle of the wall will remain forever at the right angle.

However, there are so uneven walls that there are essential large depressions or bulges. We have to consider this by applying gaskets. Wire marking with smooth wooden straps or rules, which will reveal the defect before mounting. At the end of this work, the profile is installed under the windowsill. This is done at the end of the carcass contour.

Fastening the carcass

A special detail called the P-WALL, really reminds this letter. It is sold in the form of a small metal rail with holes. When the vertical profile has not yet been installed, behind the back of the metal and attach to the wall screws. To exclude the rattling of the wall under the part dicks dick. Those who neglect the importance of this recommendation may regret then.

An example of wall cladding with a window

Where the fastening of the P-profile is already present, the rest of the framework of the framework are submitted. A vertical profile will easily go, because the Paths still has a kind of flat strip. Her side parts will be hurt later. The edges of the part with auxiliary lace rise.

The mount has side parts that need to hold in the correct position. Fasten these parts with a special long nail. All this needs to be placed so that the stand is a little concave, pressed against the wall. If this is not taken into account, the surface will be deployed.

Next will need small screws that are called flea. Their length does not exceed 1 cm. These details, the vertical stand is attached to the parts of the P-shki. The limiter can be removed earlier. This is a scrupulous work, which depends on the quality of which. For the sake of this attachment on the parts of the P-shki and those holes are made that are visible on the sides.

If the master somewhere was mistaken with the position of the rack, it is already late to correct it. It all depends on the accuracy and attentiveness of the screwing of the Bloch screws. The error hole is no longer redoing and not adjusted.

Master class from a specialist:

Work with sheets

Between the floor, the ceiling and GLC, there must be a gap. It is 1 cm below, from above 5 mm. Why do you need it? For better sound insulation. The material will not take vibration from inter-storey partitions and transfer it to them.

Sheets Cry so that the biggest side is vertically. It happens that the ceiling or gender is not flat enough. Moreover, the tenants of the apartment may not suspect about it. But this SCOS will have to take into account when the plasterboard sheet is, so that there are no places where it is pressed into the floor. Self-tapping screws are used 25 mm long. It is believed that this is optimal. After mounting the walls are separated.

Clay mount on glue

In some situations, when the room does not differ in a large area, making a frame for further attachment of plasterboard sheets will be an unjustified measure. It will steal several centimeters of a useful area that is sometimes very critical. In this case, you can use another method for fastening the plasterboard to the wall - on glue or mounting foam.

All you need for work is a special knife that you will cut the material and adhesive composition. Its selection depends on several factors, the size of the plasterboard sheet to be pasted on the wall and financial capabilities. In one way or another, you need to apply part of the adhesive composition on the desired fragment of plasterboard and press the prepared surface. The joints between sheets are closed with putty.

In contact with

Carried out with metal profiles, less often on wooden frame

The most frequent look of the design for fastening the plasterboard on the ceiling P113. At the heart, as we considered the previously started profile of STN 28 * 27 and PP 60 * 27.

It would seem a simple ceiling, but more and more and more often it is performed with errors and violations of technology. As a result, cracks appear on the ceiling of plasterboard and other troubles.

What moments need to pay attention to the installation of drywall do it yourself on the ceiling or when accepting work at repair brigades.

A few words, about the acceptance of the ceiling of plasterboard. Take the design of the ceiling should be styled:

The correct installation of the carcass for drywall
Compliance with the project (or ideas) laying low-voltage and power wiring.
If the sound insulation material is stacked, this step is necessarily controlled.
The care of the jacks of plasterboard.

What to visually pay attention to the sealing of putty:

Plasterboard sheets are securely secured.

Selfless must not blame cardboard. Correctly, if deepened no more than 1mm.

There should be no cracks, discarded cardboard, fuses and detachments, shot down angles.

Returning to the basics of plasterboard fastening.

Mounting plasterboard. Direct suspension. Montage errors

For fastening direct suspensions to the carrying ground, the developer in the documentation is clearly indicated, an anchor dowel is applied. Photo tables below.

The nylon dowel-nail (6 * 40) is applied only to fasten the guide profile to the walls.

Especially for this review, I conducted an experiment.

Passed a straight suspension with nylon dowels

And he loaded it, handed down the passage down.

With a slight load, one of the dowels was pulled out by 4mm.

When attaching direct suspension using a wedge anchor, you can hang on it with all weight. Won't move!

What will happen in violation of the installation technology of plasterboard and fastening the suspensions using nylon dowel-nails?

Recall what, now it is not difficult to understand that over time the dowel will see or climbs a nail. This will lead to a savory of the frame and the appearance of cracks on the ceiling of plasterboard.

It is hardly possible to fix them with cosmetic tools, you will need to fix the frame for plasterboard.

It is also worth noting the side of fire safety, if it seemed a minor violation of technology and the use of the fastener not intended for this.

When a fire occurs, a nylon dowel is melted and the nail loaded by weight of the plasterboard will fly out of it, which will lead to the destruction of the frame and the collapse of the ceiling.

Do not allow non-professionals to mount and fasten the drywall in its apartment. Carefully and gradually take works. And if you make the apartment repairs with your own hands, read Remontofil, there are still many secrets ahead. For example, . What is it and how to implement the installation.

Plasterboard sheets (GLC) are a very convenient and favorable facing material that gives price-quality ratio unsurpassed result among building materials. Most often from GLC arrange the ceiling, and if you do not know how to fix plasterboard to the ceiling correctly, then this page is at your service.

In addition, there is a video on this topic, which will help you clearly understand the intake subtleties.

Arrangement of plasterboard ceilings

Marking ceiling

Mounting metal carcass

On line, broken around the perimeter, screw UD profile so that its lower part exactly coincides with the line.
For attachment, it is best to use a plastic dowel-dubber with a diameter of 6 mm and a screw, with a diameter of 4-5 mm. The length of the screw and dowel will depend on the wall density.

On the lines shot down on the ceiling, attach P-shaped suspensions. It is better to use the inner holes for fastening the pad, and not the ears, since the suspension attached to the ears, under the weight of the GLC, will pull a pair of millimeters under the weight, and this will violate the level of the plane.
The diameter of the dowels and screws is needed the same as for the wall.

Council. In concrete floors there are emptiness and so that the dowel does not fail in them, it is necessary to use fragrant dowels or, if there are no, shock dowels.

But the factory ratio of the shock dowel-screw is too weak, so screwed should be replaced with a thicker.

Now cut CD profiles to the desired length and insert them into UD profiles installed around the perimeter.
Profile cut on 5 mm shorter absolute distance between the walls, and it will come in free.
In order to level the CD profiles, you need to stretch the thread under them, and in order for these most profiles to be pulled out - adjust each middle suspension under the profile, tightening it above the plane level.
Passing the pitch from the wall to the wall, across the CD profiles, consolidating it to the UD profiles with minor self-draws.

Expose every profile on the strained thread, bonding it with the suspension of small self-drawing for drywall profiles.
Similarly, fasten the CD profile with the UD profile. Sticking ends of the suspensions are rejected to the sides.
Divide all the electrical pipes needed for lighting and hide them in a corrugated cable channel. Next, we will look at how to fix plasterboard to the ceiling, or rather, to a metal frame.

Installation of plasterboard sheets

Council. Since it is necessary to mount the plasterboard, without breaking through the paper on the sheet, then use a plasterboard nozzle for this.

It is equipped with a special lampshade, which, when twisting the self-pressing, rests on the sheet, controlling the depth of drowning the cap.

Do not forget to output through the GLC wire for lighting in the right places. If you have some sheets when installing drywall, some sheets did not come up for several millimeters - do not be discouraged - these slits are filled with a spheolder or fogenfuller.

We looked at how to mount drywall, and now it needs to be prepared for the shplanyow. To do this, all the screwed screws are closed with a spheolder.

The seams between the drywall sheets can be squeezed with a sticky ribbon mesh, and then scope (see).
You can also close these seams to the fogenfuller, which is also a putty, but when frozen has great hardness and durability.
After drying off the seams and screws, you can proceed to the plasterboard splock.

Conclusion

We looked at some nuances of such arrangement as plasterboard on the ceiling - how to fix it properly and how to prepare it for finishing. For mounting more complex multi-level and curly ceilings, you need to learn how to do smooth monomular, living room, bedroom, understanding of the device that will allow you to go further and collect more complex designs.

October 22, 2016
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed consultation.

From how correctly the installation of profiles is carried out, the strength and appearance of the wall depends. If everything is done in high quality, in the end you will get a perfectly flat surface that is easy to separate and which will be distinguished by reliability and durability. I will describe the workflow in the smallest details so that you can figure it out as best as possible.

Profile Mounting Technology

We will not reflect on the advantages and minuses of this option, they are so well known, and immediately begin to consider the workflow. To begin with, we will understand with its main stages, and that everything is most clearly and clearly, I made a small scheme.

Step 1 - Surface Marking

To get the perfect wall, you need to build a smooth frame. That is why, first of all, we need to decline the plane of the future wall, and the markup will be carried out on the floor, the ceiling and adjacent walls, and not on the surface of the surface, because the frame is located with an indentation.

For work, you need the following set of devices:

Two construction plumbing;

Construction cord or fishing line;
Dowel or nails for fastening (depends on the type of base);
Rule with the level;
Pencil or chalk for marking.

Now we will analyze the workflow in detail, since if you make mistakes at this stage, then your wall will learn the curve. The instructions for carrying out work looks like this:

First of all, it is necessary to determine the most advantageous place on the wall plane, we cannot fall below it, so it is important to initially determine the starting point. Next, you can simply keep a plumb to make a label on the floor and the ceiling, and then retreat at least 3 cm so that you can place the profile and consolidate it with direct suspensions;
At the edges of the wall you need to fasten the plumbing to create vertical benchmarks, for this you need to fix a nail or dowel in the ceiling, after which it is to suspend the design so that the tip of the weight of the vehicle does not condemn the floor surface. To the rope or fishing line, on which the cargo hangs, no elements should be touched, otherwise the vertical will be distorted;

Then the cord or fishing line is stretched horizontally in such a way that the thread slightly comes into contact with the fishing line on the plumb. It is necessary to make three horizontal - on top, from below, and in the middle, it will be an excellent guideline and will allow you to make a markup as quickly as possible and most accurately;
Using a long level, rules or even ruler, you can apply labels on the wall every half meter. You must pass throughout the perimeter and gently place the surface;

Do not forget to check the retreat from the wall in the playful place, it is important that the framework does not rest in the installation in the surface.

References and construction cord are cleaned, after which you can delay the line throughout the perimeter. For this type of work, you can use any convenient tool to you: from pencil or chalk to a special construction shoelace. The lace is stretched along the surface, after which it is delayed from it and is released, resulting in a clear and smooth line;

If you have a laser level, you can spend the process much faster and easier, because this device can very accurately and quickly spend vertical and horizontally on the surface. Of course, to work with your own hands, you will have to get acquainted with the instructions or at least consult with a specialist.

Stage 2 - Fastening the Guide Profile

When your surface is marked, you can start by the next part of the work - fastening the guide profile, which is marked by Mon or UD and has dimensions 27x28 mm. The elements are made of leaf steel with a thickness of 0.4-0.7 mm, for work, take options for at least 0.5 mm.

To perform work, you need a whole set of materials and devices:

Instruments	Description
Profile featured	The quantity is simply determined: you need to add the length of all surfaces on which the profile will fit. Naturally, it is always worth taking with a slight margin, because in the process there may be waste
Fastener	For fastening a profile to wooden bases, screws are used with a length of 25 mm, and if you have a wall of concrete or brick, it is best to apply a dowel-nails 6x40 mm
Perforator or screwdrut	When using a dowel-nail you need to pre-drill holes, and if you work with screws, it is easier to twist them and faster with a screwdriver
Scissors for metal	Cut the profile on the pieces of the desired size is the easiest way with the help of conventional metal scissors. If you do not have them, it is easiest to buy the simplest option, especially since the price is low, and the scissors will serve you for many more years

If everything is needed at hand, you can proceed to work:

To begin, it is necessary to attach a profile over the line (it can pass both with outdoor, and from the inside of the profile, everything depends on what is convenient for you) and place the locations of the drilling holes for fasteners. Dowel should be located in increments of 40-60 cm, it all depends on the strength of the base. If there are no holes in the profile, then drill them yourself, the screwdriver will cope with this work;
The drilling of the holes is performed using a boraner with a long working part of at least 50 mm. If you have a longer element, then to see a landmark when working, I advise you to stick a tape or raw tape on the car, so you will constantly control the right depth, and you will not be constantly distracted by this aspect;

Fastening the profile to the wall under plasterboard occurs very quickly. If the screws are used, then they are simply screwed into the surface, and if a plastic plug is inserted into the hole in the hole, and the shock screw is clogged. Naturally, the element must be fixed in tight;

The next piece can be connected using the edges, but I usually simply have the items and fasten them. The guide profile is not intended for high loads, so you do not need to fasten it, do not listen to those who claim the opposite, the stiffness of the structure is ensured by completely different elements;
The profile cutting is carried out very easily: measurements are performed, after which the profile is placed using a marker. Then you need to cut the side walls to the metal to the base, after which the element and cut it to the end;

If you enhance the walls adjacent to each other and want to strengthen the angular connection, then at the assembly stage of the guide design in the corner, two main profiles are fixed as shown in the photo below. Such a system is much stronger than standard options.

The system is attached throughout the perimeter, the main thing is that all the profile is located along the line, since the plane of the future wall depends on them, any miscalculations will lead to a variety of problems in the future.

Stage 3 - Installation of vertical racks

It is from this part of the design directly dependent on the plane, and the strength of the future wall, so I advise you to pay special attention to this stage. To begin with, it is necessary to deal with what will be needed during the work:

The main profile that is marked with PS, PP or CD and has dimensions of 27x60 mm. That is, these elements are tightly inserted into the guide frame and create an excellent base for the subsequent attachment of the plasterboard. It is better to choose products made of metal at least 0.5 mm, pay attention to the quality of the coating: zinc must lie with a flat layer without divorce and unlocked sections;

Direct suspensions - with their help, you can very quickly and quite accurately set the position of the element and consolidate it. Most often, products have a length of about 300 mm and look like shown in the photo below. It is also important to choose a variant made of durable metal;

The mounting of the suspensions for drywall is made using a fast installation dowels, and the profile itself is connected to special self-drawers, which builders call bugs or seeds. Their size and configuration can be different, the main thing is that the fasteners have a small thread step for solid profile fixation;

A screwdriver is needed from the power tool to twist the screws and the perforator for drilling holes. Naturally, if you have a wooden base, then only a screwdriver is needed;
Construction cord or fishing line will make it possible to make landmarks that simplify the workflow, but the level also need to be at hand to control the plane;
Marking is performed using a roulette and pencil or a marker, and all the same scissors for metal will be used for cutting.

Installation of the profile for plasterboard on the wall begins with measuring work:

First of all, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary markup, for this, 120 cm is measured from the edge of the wall (the width of the plasterboard) and the label is installed on the floor. Thus, the entire plane is placed so that you see where the junctions between the sheets will be located. If there are window or doorways, then they need to have sheets so that the joint does not pass along the edge of the opening, since in this case the risk of cracks is very large;

Next you need to spend another line in the middle, there will be the ribs of stiffness, which will make the wall much stronger and allow to fix the plasterboard tougher. If you have a surface to be closed with two layers of drywall, then both rows will be carrying and set them down with all thoroughness;

To transfer labels from the floor to the ceiling and make lines on the wall, the easiest way to take a plumb and put it so that the tip looks at the label. The point is the point, you can also put several labels on the wall. After using the rule or long rail, the vertical lines are drawn, everything is very simple.

When you clearly place the position of future racks, you can start on the installation:

First of all, you need to measure the length of the profile that will be installed. The standard length of the elements is 3 meters, so they need to cut it most often, there is one nuance: the profile must be 10 mm shorter than the total height from the floor to the ceiling, this will allow you to freely place it in the guides;
Cut is done like this: first the markup is made, it is better to spend the line from all sides to see a clear guideline. The lateral sides are cut, the profile is driving and the inflection is cut to the end, everything is very simple and most importantly - to observe accuracy and will not be lit on the sharp protrusions of the metal;
The following important operation is the fastening of the suspensions, they are located on vertical lines or labels perpendicular to the profile and are set so that the middle of the element occurs on the markup. Each suspension is fixed with two dowels or self-pressing, the position of the elements of 40-60 cm, the more often they will be located, the hardness it turns out the wall, remember this;

Next, an extreme profile is inserted and located along the line, after that you can beat the suspensions so that they pressed to the rack. Using a level, the plane is checked and exposed to the optimal position. Then the screwdriver is taken, the profile is screwed by self-assemblies-clouds, after the end of the work, the extra ends of the suspension are rejected to the sides, you do not need to cut off;

First of all, it is best to set and fix two extreme racks, after which it will stretch between them the cord from above and below, it will simplify the further work, because you will have a plane benchmarks that will be constantly not distracted by checking using a level;
The further process is made in the same way, you need to fix all the racks, after which you can move to the next step. Justice It is worth noting that if there are no openings on the wall and the stiffness of the vertical racks is satisfied with you, then it is not necessary to do alternately. Although I would advise you to strengthen the design with their help.

Stage 4 - installation of horizontal jumpers and strengthening openings

To achieve even greater structural strength, as well as in order to enhance the openings, installation and horizontal jumpers are necessary. Installing the profile for plasterboard on the walls in this case does not imply fastening to the surface, we will fix the elements between vertical racks.

To work, you need the same set as the described above, but additionally may need a cross connector for drywall, which is called "crab" due to its form.

As for the workflow, everything can be held in two ways. We'll figure it out with each of them and begin with an option that provides for the use of crabs:

To begin with, you should purchase the required number of single-level connectors, as elsewhere is called crabs. They are located in increments of 600-650 mm from each other;
In order to place crabs on the same level, I personally pull the cord horizontally, then it can be cut off or tear it off. But you can make marking using the level, here you work as it is more convenient;
The connector snaps into a profile from the inside, after which the side mustaches bend and are screwed to the profile by the balls-clusters. Everything is very simple and most importantly - fix items in the right position;
Then jumpers are cut, their length should be 5 mm less than the distance between the racks. The elements are inserted into the struts from the outside, after which the mustaches are thrown away, and they are also fixed with self-draws. As a result, it turns out a durable and reliable system;

If there are openheads and the connection is made from three sides, part of the crab can simply be cut off with scissors for metal.

As for the second version of the work, it does not need any additional elements for its conduct. The workflow is carried out like this:

The distance measurements are made between the racks, after which the elements are cut 6 cm longer than necessary. It is necessary in order to subsequently make a frame connection without additional nodes;
As for the configuration of the jumpers, there may be two options, in both cases of bending between the side and the base, cuts are made by 30 mm. But then you can either break the sides and obtain the T-shaped element, or cut them off and secure the jumper through the top part. In the photo below, both options are very clearly shown, choose which one is better to you;

Further operations are simple: you need to place the racks to know the position of the crossbar, after which you can proceed to their mount. If you have an option with protruding on the side, then you can edit them through them, it is absolutely necessary to screw the screws at all. I like this way more and seems more reliable, because if necessary, the connection can be strengthened by wrapped the screws and from above.

Output

Making a frame for plasterboard on the wall is not difficult, as it seems most people. Of course, it is necessary to tinker, but you can be sure that you will get the result no worse than that of professionals. The video in this article will tell you additional information and will show clearly important moments of the workflow, but if something is incomprehensible, then write all questions in the comments below.

October 22, 2016.

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